Where did you get the PVC panels?
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, October 02, 2017 8:48 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting the headliner
Adam — the color I’ve found to be closest to the original Rustoleum Ultra-Cover
Satin H
This is what I used on Perception :
http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matthew L.
Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 3, 2017 9:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc
Matt — I got 4 x 8 sheets from the same small company that did my new windows,
as well as all of the small head/galley hatch lenses for the LF38s I got for a
bunch of people several years back. It’s sign board, similar to Sintra:
https://www.foamboardsource.com/sintra-pvc-foam--sintra-pvc-board
Thanks.
From: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2017 10:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Frederick G Street
Subject: Re: Stus-List Painting the headliner
Matt — I got 4 x 8 sheets from the same small company that did my new windows,
as well as all of the small head
Good Morning!
I have a question actually looking for opinion and experiences replacing the
keel backing plates, washers complete.
Thinking of replacing backing plates with 400 series stainless.
I was searching the list for previous discussions, found some but just looking
for as much info as pos
There is a guy in the toronto area that will prefab the backing plates etc and
install them for you. I will look for his name.
From: Liz Mather via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 3, 2017 12:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Liz Mather
Subject: Stus-List Keel bac
I did this years ago when the iron/steel plates C&C used were rusting to
pieces. It was not complicated, I took two of them (big ones and smaller
forward one) to the local shop and they made stainless versions. They are just
rectangles with holes in them.
Joe
Coquina C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List
Should use 300 series its more corrosion resistant. I used 316.
Gary Kolc 38' mk ll "liberty"
Liz Mather via CnC-List wrote:
> Good Morning!
>
> I have a question actually looking for opinion and experiences replacing the
> keel backing plates, washers complete.
> Thinking of replacing
Thank you….very much appreciated….any info on torque for 35-1 and do you now
use any lubricant, any preventative measures going forward.
I didn’t notice the plates being different size so thank you I will double
check and re-measure.
> On Oct 3, 2017, at 12:36 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>
Thanks Gary, I didn’t see that in my research for replacement and didn’t know
that 300 was more corrosive resistant…I will check it out and appreciate the
input.
Any lubricant going forward as a preventative?
> On Oct 3, 2017, at 12:53 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Should use 300
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm
The torques are listed above.
You'll need a really big torque wrench or a torque multiplier.
Generally, these torques are for dry threads.
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
On 10/3/2017 1:17 PM, Liz Mather vi
Or buy a small piece of G10 and a carbide blade and good drill bits.
Joel
On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 1:27 PM, Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm
>
>
> The torques are listed above.
> You'll need a really
The very forward keel bolt is smaller than the rest. I can’t recall if the
backing plate itself is smaller, but the hole is.
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Liz Mather
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 3, 2017 1:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc:
G10 is my vote. You can get similar stuff not branded as g10 from
McMaster-Carr. They sell it as FRP sheets, tubes, bars and angles.
IIRC Some listers have found a very uneven surface beneath the preexisting
washers. This causes point loads and potentially insufficient torque. It
might be worth
Go to the c&c photo album keel repair liberty page 5. Thereis a section on
the backng plates i made for liberty you might find it interesting.
Gary K. "Liberty"
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Original message From: Liz Mather via CnC-List
Date: 10/3/17
I know my toe rail leaks in a couple of places. Has anybody redone the
whole thing? If yes about how much time did it take you? I am going to try
to tighten the bolts first. If that doesn't work I'm going to take out each
bolt and try to get in there as much B-tape as possible and then tighten.
Any
Good luck with any 'spot' repairs.
The yard just fixed a collision based leak of longstanding on my starboard bow
quarter hull-deck joint and had to remove the bolts back to about mid-ship to
get enough separation to reach the joint. This was about 6-8 times the
length of the leaking portion
I used to tighten the toe rail bolts. No more. I grew more concerned
about squeezing out all the butyl rubber.
Now each year or two I simply run several beads of Captain Tolley's
Creeping Crack Cure down the toe rail / deck interface. Cures fairly
quickly. Run a bead, drink a beer. Repeat as
I used Captain Tolley’s also and it cut rail leaking down A LOT. It’s not cheap
unless you also calculate hours not spent taking off toe rails and putting them
back on. Wear disposable gloves too. It’s real sticky and dries to an
unsightly dirty color not unlike milkweed sap.
Steve Staten
“C’e
Dennis,
Ever use on the chainplate deck interface?
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Tuesday, October 3, 2017 Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
I used to tighten the toe rail bolts. No more. I grew more concerned about
squeezing out all the butyl rubber.
Now each year or tw
I recently went on a fix-all-the-leaks initiative. I wasn't sure whether I
might have any leaks in the toe rail, but thought I'd try Captain Tolley's
for good measure after reading your previous post about it Dennis. Really
neat stuff. If I had leaks there, I'm pretty sure I don't now.
Bill
On
No. Just the toe rail.
The chain plates haven't shown any signs of leakage. On my list to re-bed
with butyl, however.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 4:51 PM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Dennis,
>Ever use on the chainplate
Christian, I have had success putting a thin ring of B tape around the bolt and
I never tighten the bolt, I only turn the nut from below and hold the bolt from
turning. 2 person job but that’s what it takes. There is usually lots of tape
below the rail. When you turn the bolt it breaks the seal
Yup, that’s the same stuff I used to replace several panels on my boat.
They’re not very visible, but It’s unmistakably bathroom shower wall material.
😉
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] O
Dennis, you always have good, practical suggestions. Thank you.
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2017 5:20 PM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toe rail leak
I used to tighten the toe rail bolts. No more. I grew more concerned about
squeezing out all t
Haven't had toe rail leaks that I know ofbut did remove the whole backstage
chocolate. It was leaking into the bilge. Bedded around the deck with butyl
tape years ago. The deck opening was pretty generous. Bone dry since. The
butyl just adheres well and remains supple. Spencer johnso
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