Just be aware that any scratch Resistance and UV protective coatings
will be removed. Maybe try just the plastic headlight polish by itself
first. That may be enough for a decent improvement. I would also caution
against using any compound that is not specifically for plastic.
Automotive compou
FYI:
I got some Prism polish for my stainless steel grill. One of my old cars has
foggy headlights that nothing seemed to fix, so I figured nothing to lose and
the Prism stuff did GREAT on the headlights.
(also did great on the grill)
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.
Prism polish is specifically stated by the manufacturer to be safe for
plexiglass.
"Prism Polish has been formulated to clean, polish and protect all
metals in one application. Our protective coating is designed to last 3
to 6 months. Prism Polish contains no harsh acids, caustics or
abrasive
Dear listers- Thanks for all the advice and observations. I actually worked on
it for a few hours yesterday afternoon and now I really don’t know what is
going on. I checked the mast with no backstay on and it still showed a few
inches of rake. The forestay had a significant arc to it and fel
Hi Dave
Is it possible that there is a mast step adjustment and the step has been moved
aft further than desired?
Have you tried running the main halyard aft and tightening the halyard?
Attaching it to an aft cleat or something very solid and then using the halyard
winch should help bring mas
Or are you missing any shackles on the backstay that could have been used as
spacers?
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 7:40 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length
Or perhaps toggles? Either on forestay or backstay?
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2017 10:10 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension
Or are you missi
Bruce
You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since the early
70’s. However you only want to use the least grit paper to get the scratches
out, so as to remove the minimum amount of material. I usually start with 1000
or 800 grit to determine if the scratches will come out.
David:
Something is wrong.can't tell you what without seeing it but
definitely something is wrong. I have a split back stay and I attach
mine every Spring single handed...I don't need a second pair of hands, I
don't need to attach the main halyard to crank the mast back.the
forestay
+1 for checking the clearance between the aft of the mast and the mast collar.
If the forestay is loose the top of the mast may be slightly forward.
Going by mast rake is difficult unless the boat is floating to spec. You can
take an
initial reading with a digital level by comparing something tha
Will this process work to remove the crazing and small cracks that appear on
older hatches?
Harvey
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 12, 2017, at 9:35 AM, Larry via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Bruce
> You are doing it correctly. I have worked with “Plexiglass” since the early
> 70’s. However you only wan
In other words, can I get the scuffs off the eisenglass on my dodger with
really fine sand paper followed by compound and polish?
Dan SheerPegathy - LF 38, Rock Creek off the Patapsco
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
Has anyone had any experience with the stainless steel exhaust elbows
available on e-Bay such as:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GMKit-Stainless-Steel-Exhaust-Kit-Replaces-Yanmar-GM-124070-13520-/332179494684?hash=item4d5770d71c:g:hBsAAOSw3KFWeqXI&vxp=mtr
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI
Here in Havre de Grace MD there is a marina that once sold C&Cs. My 37/40
needed a rudder rebuild. The owner recalled having a spare in his
warehouse. Alas it was not for a 37/40. It may be for a 35. Give Havre de
Grace Marina a call and ask for Chris.
http://www.hdgmarinecenter.com/
Let me know h
My understanding (and it seems intuitive to me) is that crazing will not come
out, as the cracks go too deep. This is to address fogging and fine scratches
usually caused by UV damage and minor scuffs.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 37/40+
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
From: Harv
Nope, it is a surface treatment only. Deep crazing won't be affected.
Novus #2 is specifically designed for acrylics and polycarbonates and costs
much less than the proprietary "headlight polishes". I use it regularly to
remove surface scratching and hazing from portlights and Lexan dodger
windows
Depends on what your dodger is fitted with. The polishes will not work on
vinyl. Our dodger has Lexan front windows and vinyl side windows, I only
use it on the Lexan.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 12 May 2017 at 08:39, Daniel Sheer via CnC-List
wrote:
> In other words,
I bought one and it was fine. Came with gasket. Jerry J&J
Sent from my iPhone
> On May 12, 2017, at 11:48 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Has anyone had any experience with the stainless steel exhaust elbows
> available on e-Bay such as:
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/GMKit-Stainles
What do you do to protect thenewly polished surface from further sun and
UV damage. I'm thinking of adding a UV blocking film
On 5/12/2017 12:27 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Nope, it is a surface treatment only. Deep crazing won't be affected.
Novus #2 is specifically designed for acryl
Jim
Where do you buy your Novus #2
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32- 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2017-05-12 1:27 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:
Nope, it is a surface treatment only. Deep crazing won't be affected.
Novus #2 is specifically designed for acrylics and polycarbonates and
costs much less than th
Hi, experts!
It's time to replace my main halyard on my LF38. The original is
wire-to-rope, and I plan to replace with the same (3/16 7X19 wire, 7/16
doublebraid). I have noted that the halyard sheave at the masthead is quite
small and narrow - for wire only - meaning the halyard could jam if the
r
Thanks Jim for your insights. Novus is arriving today via Amazon. I heard the
recommendation load and clear!
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On May 12, 2017, at 12:27 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Nope, it is a surf
I used electrical tape. I can't recall any drama from exchanging the
halyards.
I changed from wire-rope to all rope. I recommend that you consider doing
the same. The wire can chew up the sheeve and everything inside the mast.
When it starts to fail you get fish hooks which are dangerous and ev
Hi Tom, 10 years ago when I replaced my wire to rope halyards. I went with 7/16
cos yacht braid and have had no issues. Never changed the sheeves. The main
does make some noise now and then. But the next owner needs some projects.
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus L
Thanks, Josh, but I'm 95% sure the sheave on my 1980 LF38 is only for wire.
My telephoto shot of the wire in the sheave shows the total sheave width at
the lip is slightly less than twice the width of the 3/16 wire passing
through it, so I'm pretty sure a 7/16 rope in that space would either jam
up
You could try a two part all rope halyard. Some 1/4 inch Dyneema stuffed
onto 3/8 or 7/16 StaSet or some other combination. Luggage tag eye or
regular eye on the Dyneema for the shackle. Would probably clear the
sheaves in the masthead.
That's what I'll replace Touche' current wire/rope halyard
Normally, I use 3mm parachute cord for connecting new/old halyards, etc.
However, a connector that is often overlooked is dental floss. My rigger
buddy and I use it frequently for tight clearance sheaves. Makes a small
splice that will pass through narrow spaces. A caution, it will be
slippery o
You can buy a 3/8" mid tech line like MLX Samson or Novabraid Argus and strip
(taper) the cover to Match the wire rope length of the original. A 3/8"
blended core line will out perform the Dacron halyard with regards to strength
and stretch and the narrow core will work in your wire sheave as l
I replaced the wire-rope halyards on both my 25 and my 38 with all rope. No
problem with the sheeves on either. And I stitched a messemger line to the end
of the rope, pulled out the old halyard, stitched the messenger to the end of
the new halyard, and pulled it down through the mast. Easy-Pees
Hi Tom
Consider replacing the wire/rope with dyneema/whateversuitsyou and changing
the masthead sheaves.
I did. Sheaves from Zephyr. Amazing service and what a quality product. They
came with a bronze bushing and fitted perfectly. If you need dimensions, let
me know.
John
LF38
From: T
David;
When will you be arriving in and departing from Bermuda?
Imzadi will be coming over on the Rally to the Cup, and our ETA is late on
June 15 or early June 16. We'll be staying at the St. George's Dinghy Club.
Fred Street and Jim Schwartz from the C&C list are among my crew.
I thou
Most of the UV blockers are not safe on most plastics. That's a
generalization. YMMV.
We had UV blockers made from Sunbrella. 😀
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 12 May 2017 at 10:29, Danny Haughey via CnC-List
wrote:
> What do you do to protect thenewly polished surface f
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