Two years ago for us. Courtesy of a line wrapped around the prop.
Cutlass bearing was due for replacement anyway and the shaft was worn a bit
under that. New coupler, shaft, cutlass bearing, Dripless Shaft Seal and some
work on stern tube and strut.
I now watch more carefully for lines ...
M
Hello, I have a cnc 32cb and my cable broke inside the hole cut out on the
trailing edge of the centerboard does anyone know how the cable attaches to the
board
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Just put up my main sail for the 1st time today. I've never had a boat
with a back stay. On my 1988 C&C 30MKII sail hits the leach. How's that
supposed to work?
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what we
The wind should push the leach past the backstay. If not you can usually
shake the backstay (fore and aft) and the addition of wind will push the
leach past. Otherwise, just let the traveler down.
Keep and eye on the leach for wear.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 4,
Are you sure it's hitting the backstay, or is it hitting the (main boom)
topping lift? It's relatively common for topping lifts to interfere with main
leeches. After raising the main you need to ease the topping lift enough for
the leech to clear it. If you get a rigid vang you don't need a topp
When the main is full, the leach probably won't hit the back-stay. If it
does, it will get past the back-stay when you tack, except in very light
air. In that case, you might have to let out the traveler, or as a last
resort, lower the sail until it clears, and then raise it. Another thing
you c
Lorne,
Get out the roach spray! As others have said, not a big deal. Your main has
some extra roach. Both of my mains do also. Wouldn't have it any other way.
The only time it will be an issue is light air. Then, like others have
suggested, give the back stay a whack, drop the traveler or eas
You can add a crane to the top of the mast – some have a springy batten or
stainless strap – some are fixed. If you race, it may cause problems with your
handicap. Or, the simplest – just don’t haul the sail all the way up – keep it
down an inch or so and use the Cunningham to firm up the luff.
If it is anything like mine the cable is swagged to a 1/2" diameter rod (for
lack of better term). Within About 1/2" from the end there is a 1/4" hole.
The rod passes through a hole in the end of the centre board and a 1/4" bolt
goes through a hole in the centre board and through the rod. Thi
I was digging around in the recesses of my garage looking for the two
gallons of bottom pain that I seem to have misplaced and ran across
our old sail cover from Alera. With the in boom furling, dom't need
it or want it.
If you want it, just cover the shipping cost and it's yours. It's
in
On my 36 it attaches to the boat with a bow shackle. I had the cable made and
then sized it at the boat using wire clamps..
Mike C&C 36 CB 93295
Virginia Beach, VA
Sent from my iPad Mini
> On Jul 4, 2016, at 16:18, demojo58 via CnC-List wrote:
>
>
>
>
> Hello, I have a cnc 32cb and my
Thanks all! Guess I should not worry about it. I'm still new and this
seemed strange or bad.
On Jul 4, 2016 4:48 PM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List"
wrote:
> You can add a crane to the top of the mast – some have a springy batten or
> stainless strap – some are fixed. If you race, it may cause pro
I have the same issue and what we do on light air days is lower the halyard a
few inches and use the cunningham to tighen the luff, you are not effecting the
foot usually.
Tom VincentFrolic II C&C 36 cbChesapeake City, MD
_
I intentionally had my new main designed with less roach so that it
wouldn't catch.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 4, 2016 6:15 PM, "Lorne Serpa via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Thanks all! Guess I should not worry about it. I'm still new and this
> seemed strange or bad.
> O
Spray the roachy bit of the main with McLube, helps it slide through much
easier.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 4 July 2016 at 16:04, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
wrote:
> I intentionally had my new main designed with less roach so that it
> wouldn't catch.
>
> Josh Muckle
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