Congratulations. There’s one sitting in my slip at my house right now. It’s
owned by a Norwegian couple that have spent three (winter) seasons in the
Bahamas on it. They’re currently prepping to do do it again with a stop in NYC
before heading South.
They’re planning on stopping back at our pla
Hi Dave, thanks! I've read just about every article on this model and have been laying after one but I never thought all the stars would EVER align enough to actually own one!
the wife is not overly enthused about the dark wood interior but she couldn't deny the exceptional value of this particu
Harry, there is a ST solution out there that is like a step better that winch mate but Less than new winches. I was looking at them for the Viking. if memory serves they were about $550/winch and it is a bolt on self tailing winch mate. I'll have to search and see if I can come up with the web s
oops... all that blather for nothing. winch mate was the in between item. I was thinking those rubber things w had on Lolita were winch mates...
don't mind me... lol
DJH
On Josh Muckley via CnC-List , Sep 5, 2015 10:38 PM wrote:Harry,
3 pairs of these have come up on eBay over the last 6 month
It just occurred to me that no one replied with a DIY fuel cleaning method. Has
anyone built their own polisher? I have considered a two filter system with a
bypass polisher but haven't had any issues and I don't use much fuel either.
It isn't complicated in theory.
Len
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Se
Danny,
When you say topside paint are you talking about the hull (freeboard, area
between the water and toe rail)? Or are you talking about the deck
(everything above the toe rail)? Either way you're probably looking at the
better part of $10k.
For hull/freeboard paint I suggest that avoid the
On Pegasus I have a system that alows me to pump fuel through my filters,
then back to the tank. Not sure I would call it a fuel polisher. I put it in
after spending a hour trying to bleed the filters while under way. I have a
valve before the engine andafter the filters, and one that
Hi this issue is a concern for me as well. Now, on the boat we're buying, we
ran the engine for probably 2 - 3 hours throughout the weekend. Between moving
it to the lift and back during the survey and then out for a sea trial we never
shut it off and the engine ran beautifully the whole time.
Hi Josh!
In considering topsides to be waterline to toe rail. I honestly would prefer
gel coat. I don't really understand the rush to paint. Gelcoat seems to want
to come back to life even after years of neglect. I thought that, because she
is painted already, I had no choice but to paint a
I had Touche' painted with Awlcraft rather than Awlgrip. Easier to blend
and repair than Awlgrip.
I sanded the topsides and had a pro shoot the paint. Used a Hutchins
Hustler straight line sander. Took 3 coats of high build primer followed
by the Awlcraft. Looks awesome!
The sander removed al
I would carry extra filters, and fill with fresh fuel.
Pegasus sat for a couple of years when I bought her. I didn't have any
issues with the fuel until I got into rough water, and stired up the fuel.
Now I change the filters once a year and have no issues.
Doug Mountjoy
sv Pegasus
LF38
Just west
So, a roll and tip job is cheap and would not be worthy of Awlgrip.
Awlcraft is the product I was suggesting for ease of repair. You could
probably DIY with a helper or two and get away for less than $1k.
If the bottom doesn't show signs of blistering then i would simply sand and
feather the bott
Danny,
If you decide to recondition your hull surfaces I would suggest, per Josh and
Dennis, using AwlCraft 2000 or something similar for the reasons that they
state, ease of repair. It’s softer than AwlGrip but repairable. My
understanding is that you should get 10 years without having to re-p
I like this idea Doug. It is similar to one that I have had but not
implemented. I do have a small 12v fuel pump and have used it to "turn
over" the fuel. I ran hose from the outlet of the racor to the pump and
then hose out the window to the fuel fill port on deck. Used and "filter
funnel" at
I LOVE the sound of those prices! I have not tackled a finish job of this
magnitude before. Repairable is definitely desirable. For some reason I
thought awlgrip wasn't that easy to repair... The bottom looks to have many
many years of buildup but, you're right I'm not racing nor do I plan to
I can see trying to save $$ on a bottom job. However, topsides paint is a
different story. I would want a really good paint job even if I had to pay
more. The topsides is what people see. The numerous positive comments on
Touche's topside paint very much ease the pain I felt in my wallet. :)
So I just discovered 4 shaped wood blocks waaay up under the nav table that I
can only assume are the chocks for where the mast passes through the deck.
Which obviously means the yard didn't put them in when they stepped the mast
because they didn't know they existed.
So my question is, is it
very good points. I guess if I just bite the bullet and do a really nice paint job now. I won't have to worry about it again. I'll probably end up doing that. I know hinkley in Portsmouth pains boats and boast the best job in the industry but, I can't imagine what that would cost...
I've heard
Bad advice indeed! Once blistering occurs, the work to be done goes much
further and gets exponentially more expensive than simply blasting and barrier
coating.
Danny, this is a new-to-you boat found after much searching and will likely be
with you for quite a while. If you are going to do a to
All,
Just got a nearly new chute off Ebay for next to nothing. When I remove
the numbers there is residue on the sail. What will safely clean up the
glue?
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
--
Joel
301 541 8551
___
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change
Not sure. Probably 3M Adhesive remover. Check with your sail maker.
I just sprinkled baby powder on the residue on one of mine. Problem solved!
Dennis C.
On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 3:43 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> All,
>
> Just got a nearly new chute off Ebay
Rich,
Are you suggesting that if a 30 year old boat hasn't blistered yet, that it
is likely to? My thoughts/statements were twofold, assess exactly what
Danny meant by needing a bottom job and advise that if multiple layers of
bottom paint is the only concern that he could probably get away with
If your mast partner is like mine, it is a cast aluminum ring which is not all
that well machined. Thus, if your mast is moving around (and it will under
load), your mast will rub on this rough casting. Maybe a little, maybe a lot,
but I sure would not like to have a scuffed part of the mast whe
If it's a good chute, you may want to avoid harsh chemicals. Sailmakers I know
just sprinkle baby powder on the old glue, as Dennis says.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
> On S
The problems with fuel might be many, but they fall into a few simple
categories:
- water in the fuel (the worst kind, because it encourages the grows of
algae)
- debris in the fuel (should filter out, but if you have plenty of that
stuff, the filters might get clogged)
- mechanical problems wit
Hello everyone,
I am new to the list and would like to introduce our boat and me. A friend and I are sailing "Messing About", a 1980 C&C 30 MKI, out of Larchmnont, NY. (I take care of the boat for about seven years, when she was Kelly green and named Mistral IV, but our captain decided at 95 yo
yea, surveyor didn't say anything about blisters but did say it would be a good
idea to soda blast barrier coat and bottom paint. sand feather and re-coat
would certainly be an option, although I don't think the cost would be
drastically different going the full strip, barrier coat, bottom pain
I would say it's a big deal...unless the yard did something else instead
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Sun, Sep 6, 2015 at 5:05 PM, davepulaski via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> So I just discovered 4 shaped wood block
Thanks
On Sunday, September 6, 2015, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> If it's a good chute, you may want to avoid harsh chemicals. Sailmakers I
> know just sprinkle baby powder on the old glue, as Dennis says.
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narr
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