Paul:
I hear you and feel you pain. Been there.
Just don’t underestimate the cost of the outboard route. Even with a
combination of yard/DIY/Ebay I can’t see this being less than a 4k project and
will easily top 6k yard alone. That includes removing the A4, removing all the
associated syste
Paul
If the block is OK and you have good compression and this hasn't been done
yet, I would get a price to upgrade to electric fuel pump, electronic
ignition, rebuild the carb (professionally), Install a good fuel filter /
separator and smaller in-line fuel filter downstream from the separator,
e
Paul,
you said:
The downsides of an outboard as I gather from your collective responses are:
1) cavitation in waves which means not sufficient oomph in a seaway if you have
to get anywhere under engine.
2) not pretty
3) not in the original design
4) not cheap (just less expensive than the alter
I had to replace the 2gm15 diesel in my C&C 30 within the first year of
owning the boat. I am in no way a mechanic. I got the boat for $2,500.00
bucks and knew it had some issues. I took it on as a project boat. The boat
had been sitting in the saltwater for 5 years unattended without flushing
out
Paul,
My first boat had a Palmer P-60, a flat-head 4 cylinder derived from an
International Cub Cadet tractor engine, and similar to the Atomic 4. It was
raw-water cooled, and the boat was in salt water. I had endless running
problems with it over the years. The problems were both electric
Re your coil: if they are failing that often it could well be the result of
too much current through the primary. That would also prematurely trash your
points. Is there a ballast resistor in the circuit?
Rich
Rich Knowles
IFDS 2014 Worlds
Support Chair
> On Aug 5, 2014, at 3:26, Paul and Dar
I would add re-wiring the harness and any wires to the coil and engine. Moyer
sells a kit for that or you could just buy some marine cable. I was having
trouble with my engine stalling and not wanting to re-start for an hour at a
time. I really could identify with your stranded situations. I
Marek, "In your emails, I hear some of the sentiments I had before we changed
boats. Our outboard became somewhat unreliable (I think that I eventually
traced this down to fuel filters and fuel itself) and it was a really bad
feeling � every time we needed to start the motor I could never say
1) I am not a fair weather sailor, and I do not find cavitation to be
much of a problem, even in bad weather. I have seen many outboard
installations that mounted the bracket and the motor too high. Garelick
makes a LOT of models, and gives all dimensions including range of
travel. Careful plan
This fellow wished he had ANY kind of engine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzydL_cUfU4
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
Marek,
"In your emails, I hear some of the sentiments I had before we changed boats.
Our outboard became somewhat unreliable (I think that I eventually trac
If the engine die randomly while under motor and you have gone through four
coils you may
have a problem similar to what I have fixed on a couple of Atomic 4s. Check the
wire that
comes out of the distributor to the coil. You will need to remove the
distributor cap, undo the
90 degree connector
Here is my two cents.
Engine issues will not simply go away by purchasing an outboard. Outboards
break down, it's a fact of life.
On of the reasons I justified selling my 30MMKI with an A-4 was that the
engine was the original, 1972, raw water cooled, soon to die, at the end of
the line, it must
I have BTDT with coil failures. There was a ton of research done on Moyer and
it is a solved problem now. I have had exactly *zero* issues in about 200-300
hours since I put the rebuilt A4 in. For a while I thought I was going nuts
because everyone swore my setup should work fine and meanwhile I
My 15 HP Johnson has been pretty good except the one time it just died and
would not start for anything. Turned out the EI module expired and had to be
replaced. Not a big deal – we were almost back to the dock and done with the
dinghy for the day anyway. There is NO WAY this repair could be do
I've never owned an A4, but I grew up on gas powered fishing boats. Most
of the problems we had (and there were many) were ignition related. Bad
coils, points, distributors, wires, fouled plugs. I'd look into the
electronic ignition module if compression were good. My 2 cents.
Joel
On Tue, A
Mike it's a perko latch. I have an extra that I am about to install but I
will get model number for you. My old one I am taking off is serviceable
just stiff. I haven't tried lubing it yet we've had another on osprey so
thought I would use it. I am at the v marina tonight. Will try to remember
to l
Thanks Kevin. Your reply pointed me in the right direction. I think it’s the
Perko latch at this link:
http://www.perko.com/catalog/locks_and_latches/113/flush_lock_&_latch_with_2_keys/
Don’t know if I need the locking capability, but this one fits so I’ll probably
go with it.
Thanks again,
M
Hi Folks,
I have just purchased a 1985 C&C 33 MKII from a private party. The boat is
currently moored in Bayfield WI on Lake Superior and I intend to keep it
there. It is currently registered and titled in State of MN with MN a
license on the bow. I live in MN.
Initially, I was planning to tra
Hi, Tom — welcome to the List, and congrats on the new boat! Which boat did
you buy? I’ve been up in the Bayfield area for nearly 20 years now, and know
many of the C&Cs up there.
You can either keep the MN registration, or switch to WI. My boat has WI
registration AND Federal documentation;
If I can fix a fuel problem on an A4, anyone can! Totally agree with the
others to clean your fuel tank well (removing it is not as hard as it appears)
and go thru each line to make sure its clean and tight (no air leakage), change
filters, install polishing filter, electronic ignition, etc.
If I can fix a fuel problem on an A4, anyone can! Totally agree with the
others to clean your fuel tank well (removing it is not as hard as it appears)
and go thru each line to make sure its clean and tight (no air leakage), change
filters, install polishing filter, electronic ignition, etc.
One more thing - early-mid 1970s C&C fuel systems would not be even CLOSE to
being safe in 2014. I have not one scrap of the original fuel system left. The
tank was ternplate, which will send a ton of rust through the engine until it
rusts right through and the hoses were NOT compatible with mod
Joe,
How can I tell if my tank in my 1974 ¾ ton is original? I have seen no rust
in my filters (yet). I know my supply line is relatively new but I was
already planning on replacing my fill and vent hoses. They look old and not
like the new hoses that are made for ethanol.
Thanks,
Skip
It’s my understanding that Moyer won’t ship large items like blocks and rebuilt
engines to Canada.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
Cygnet
C&C 27 MkIII___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list prefere
Good thing the border is close for most boat owners.
-Original Message-
From: "Peter Fell via CnC-List"
Sent: 2014-08-05 1:58 PM
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List follow-up on outboards
It’s my understanding that Moyer won’t ship large items like blocks and rebuilt
If the tank is metal and not bare aluminum, chances are high it is ternplate.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 1:48 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: RE: Stus-List A4 engine problems
Joe,
How can I
Monel is the best possible metal to make tanks from. Worth big - if you
have a monel tank that is great news!
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: Burt Stratton [mailto:bstrat...@falconnect.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 2:23 PM
To: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: RE: Stus-List A4 engine problems
So if my belt is slipping, can I just pull the alternator out to tighten? Or do
I have to replace it? It has squealed from time to time and I can push it in
maybe 1/2". Is replacement a two person job?
Barbara H. Fellers
___
This List is provid
Engine type?
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Barbara
Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 3:33 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Alternator or belt?
So if my belt is slippin
I am in the process of restoring an 81 Landfall 35. Systems are good, so am
wanting to do some cosmetic improvements.
The PO applied some sort of rusty brown paint to the white plastic rub rails.
(Also the cast aluminum stanchion bases and the bow roller, but that is another
question!)
I a
One person with a lever can do it. Changing belts every year or two is best
policy.
On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 3:33:13 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List
wrote:
So if my belt is slipping, can I just pull the alternator out to tighten? Or do
I have to replace it? It has squealed fr
There are usually two bolts. A pivot point and a bolt on the tension arm.
Loosen both, slip off the old belt and replace. The hard part is
tensioning the belt and tightening the nut on arm at the same time. That
is where the device Edd used helps.
Joel
On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 3:35 PM, JOHN D
Once it has started to squeal, the inside of the "V" has been glazed and
tensioning the belt is not a viable option. Replacement is quite easy on most
engines.
Gary
S/V Expresso
75' C&C 35 Mk II
East Greenwich, RI, USA
Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~
> On Aug 5, 2014, at 3:32 PM, Barbara Hicks
My original tank is also Moenl. What I do every spring is to remove some of the
gas in the bottom ( abour 1 liter ). Sometimes half of it is water sometimes it
is only gas. I does remove some sludge evary time ( I use a brass tube with an
outboard bulb to extract on a glass jar.
Anyway, I have
Thanks everyone!
Barbara H. Fellers
> On Aug 5, 2014, at 4:30 PM, "Gary W. Russell" wrote:
>
> Once it has started to squeal, the inside of the "V" has been glazed and
> tensioning the belt is not a viable option. Replacement is quite easy on
> most engines.
>
> Gary
> S/V Expresso
> 75'
My 1975 model year C&C 27 (built in late 74 based on the HIN of CCY274660974
has the original fuel tank... It is Monel which you probably can't afford
even if you could find it. Monel is a wonderful cupronickel alloy, no rust,
no fuss. My A4 runs like a champ, and is very stock (standard distri
I've replaced the entire fuel system except the tank. I think it's
aluminum. I did free it once to lift it up so I could see underneath. No
noticeable corrosion.
New fill hose, vent, lines, racor and polishing filter.
Last year the attendant at a marina I was at accidentally filled the tank
with d
Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around!
Not sure my marina would go to those lengths to make good on that.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan
Plavsa via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:11 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject
Tim
Thanks for this advice. I think mine is a standard rug like yours I have
sheaves for two spin halyards but only have one halyard. Perhaps I should re
purpose one of the jib halyards which never gets used! I am reasonably
familiar with the Mexican on a j109 (asym and sprit of course) but no
>> Better diesel in your gas tank than the other way around! <<
I have been told that up to 10% gasoline in a large (>25 gal) diesel tank would
still be OK to use. I picked this up when discussing diesel truck refueling
issues. I friend of mine with a fleet of diesel trucks panicked when he lo
Maybe your alternator is old, the bearings are worn, if so the brushes are
probably worn as well, and you should replace both?
When I burned my diodes, I considered sending it for a rebuild but then I
was quoted up to $ 200.00 +
Then I looked on eBay: How about 85.00 bucks shipped brand spanki
I used to put 2 gallons of gasoline in my old Mercedes 300D per tank of diesel
in the winter.
Joe Della Barba
j...@dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, August 05, 2014 5:45 PM
To: Burt Stratton; cnc-list
James - I believe that vinyl rub rail is part of the deck/hull joint, so
replacing it would be next to impossible.
Wal
you wrote:
I am debating whether it is worth the labour to attempt to remove the paint and
shine up the existing rub rail, or to go ahead and replace.
--
s/v Stella Blue
w
We still do that (add a little gasoline) to the tank in a 2004 Ford F 350
diesel truck. No problems after 11 years.
Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald,
HONEY
C&C 39TM
Savannah, GA 31410 USA
**PLEASE REMOVE honeys...@aol.com FROM YOUR ADDRESS
BOOK AND IMMEDIATELY ADD j...@fitzgeraldforwarding.com
*
RE: diesel in the gas
Maybe some of you remember but when I bought Sea Hawk the survey revealed
that the engine (diesel) wouldn't stay running. After the owner hired a
mechanic and had the HP pump replaced ($1800) I thought the problem had
been licked and departed on the 350mi delivery trip. Abo
In the old days before diesel was "winterized" it was SOP to add 10% gas to
your diesel tank, then fill with diesel (insures mixing). This was done to
prevent the diesel from "jelling".
Michael Cotton
S/V M'aisling
On Tuesday, August 5, 2014 4:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
wrote:
RE:
And use a new belt. The only time I had a belt failure was 20 hours
after I put a 'new' belt on. I'd put on my oldest spare, which was
dumb. It's not fresh milk, and there's no need to rotate stock. Belts
are cheap; overheating is expensive.
Wal
You run less risk of the vapour lock mentioned earlier by using kerosene
instead of gas to help keep the wax in #2 diesel dissolved in the winter. This
is an all too frequent problem in colder climates with truckers who head north
from the southern states in the winter, who don't bother to stop
Michael,
When I worked at a gas station in Upper Michigan we used to winterize diesel by
adding 10% #1 heating oil to it. It is far less volatile than gasoline.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
“Midnight Mistress”
C&C 35 Mk-III
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-li
Thanks for your comment Mr. Bryant. I think you are correct about the rub-rail
being part of the deck-hull joint. But I wonder if there is a cosmetic
solution - ie. installing a concave replacement over the existing one. Has
anyone tried anything like this?
James LeMesurier
Landfall 35 -
James and Wally...The rubrail on my LF38 is pretty beat up. I agree that it is
under the toe rail and would be a big whup to replace.
What about just cutting it off flush and adding a standard rub rail? Probably
one of those vibrating cutters would make short work of it especially after you
g
There are lots of options for rub rails. I'd be looking at one of the
systems where you install a plastic track then snap the rubber part on it.
They have end fittings if you need them. Here's one site:
http://www.mate-usa.com/en/product_category/rub-rail-pvc
Here's a video of the process: htt
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