If you have a furler and it extends beyond the foot of the mast (it probably
will not if you are keel stepped), take a length of a 2x3 or 2x4 (depending
on the mast), stick it in to the mast foot and use it to support the furler
drum. You don't want it to dangle on its foil (or be the first one
There is a *lot* more to the story of Rebel Heart. You can find out all about
it in the usual places.
Long Story Short is the wife has issues, they never should have left Mexico,
and having NO communications might have been the best thing for them.
As for ham radio, it is very nice to have for a
Jack:
You’ll make much, much better time staying outside once you reach Florida.
Especially from the Treasure Coast on south, there are endless drawbridges.
As a longtime East Coast of Florida sailor, I’ve never understood the
attraction of motoring down the ICW. As long as you stay inside duri
I have not done this trip in a C&C, but I have gone the other direction in
another type of boat.
Sad to say, but you can make much better time down the ICW to Florida with the
mast down ☹ Tons and tons of drawbridges. If you make it as far as Annapolis
rig-down we certainly have good rigging sho
I don't think it went to the list
-Original Message-
From: Don Siddall
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2014 9:48 AM
To: Marek Dziedzic
Subject: POP'AYE, 41 FT C & C, DETROIT TO FLORIDA
The tie down straps are really good. You want to ratchet them up tight.
Remember you will go under a l
Before I break a sweat, thought I should check in with the group. I know
the holding tank is behind the teak wall or vanity but I was curious as to
how much had to be removed before gaining access to the tank. If it all
needs to be removed, is there anyone out there who can supply photos,
nuggets o
Peter,
My sister got a diagram of the process from Rob at South Shore many years ago
when she replaced the tank ...
http://southshoreyachts.com
Paul. :)
> On May 12, 2014, at 1:10 PM, "Peter Delean via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Before I break a sweat, thought I should check in with the group.
Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing
shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded).
Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow
anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8" rode.
But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fi
Mark,
I don't think it is unusual. If you had a larger anchor you could probably
get the body of the shackle through the slot!
Joel
On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 1:52 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the exi
Mark,
A bit of a chain primer might shed some light on this. Many boaters think
chain is just chain.
However, chain isn't just "chain". Chain is designated by both size and
type. Size can even be US or metric.
There are several different types of chain. Chain can be designated BBB,
proof coi
Mark,
Sounds like you are building a hurricane proof anchoring system? 5/8" nylon is
hard to get onto cleats smaller than 10". Just sayin.
Following Chapman's, I tried 5/8" docklines and found I could never get them
over my 6" and even 8" cleats. I use 1/2" nylon three strand twisted for lunch
Has anyone on the list got a surplus working Autohelm or Raymarine ST 50 or 60
Wind instrument available? Mine croaked. Grrr!!! I only need the readout.
Thanks:)
Rich Knowles
INDIGO LF38
Halifax, NS.
On May 12, 2014, at 21:59, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
Mark,
Sounds like you are building
Considering I use 1/4" HT chain and 1/2" nylon for Shift, I have to agree.
3/8" nylon would be appropriate to give enough stretch with strength.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 12 May 2014 17:59, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
> Mark,
> Sounds like you are building a hurric
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