Are looking for a cover for the cable itself like these:
http://us.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Cable-covers/c28_148/index.html
Or a cover for the turnbuckles like these (scroll down a bit to "Turnbuckle
Boot"):
http://us.binnacle.com/Sailboat-Hardware-Turnbuckles-&-Accessories/c28_147/index.htm
David
Here's a link to a manufacturer.
http://www.davisnet.com/marine/products/list_marine.asp?grp=m22-4. Try
searching under "shroud roller" They are very common. Bought one yesterday
from a small chandlery for $6 Cdn.
Martin
C&C 29-2 Recalculating
Mimico Cruising Club
martink...@sympatico.c
David:
I have a baby stay as well.as Ken pointed out on the Binnacle site,
I use both the six foot length of 'cable cover' on the babystay itself
and then the 'turnbuckle cap cover' on the turnbuckle on the bottom.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax. N.S.
On 2014/05/08 6:21 AM, Ken H
Just a safety note on the car cover: I had them on my C&C 27, they looked
right sharp! I took them off shortly after on the day I climbed on board
grabbing a shroud for support. The cover split open, collapsed down the shroud
and dumped me on my butt on the dock. Close call. Never again.
Ri
No affiliation, just saw the ad and thought it might be worth a look for
someone in the market for a boat like this:
http://www.kijiji.ca/v-sailboat/oshawa-durham-region/30ft-c-c-great-shape-new-canvass-and-autohelm-engine-is-atomic-4/590839200?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
No pics not much inf
Rich:
Good point which is why I put a few wraps of white tape on mine on both
ends and in the middle so the cover can't slip open. And since it is
only on my babystay, I rarely grab it for an support.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2014/05/08 9:32 AM, Rich Knowles wrote:
J
Also, covering SS wire leads to more corrosion. Most riggers will tell you
not to use them.
You might consider shroud rollers:
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|118|2358491|2358503&id=161924
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Thu, May 8, 2014 at 8:49 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cn
Michael: Can you please explain why you say the Echo Charge is not a solution?
I have had one on my boat for 11 years now with never a flat battery and no
overcharging problems. Ditto all the boats I have installed them on.
Rich
On May 7, 2014, at 12:11, Michael Brown via CnC-List
wrote:
Th
Echo chargers can work well.
They need all charging sources (other than a two bank battery charger maybe..)
led to the house bank and no loads other than the engine itself on the start
bank. If one battery is a gel the other one has to be as well. AGMs will get
along with wet cells OK in this ap
I have tank senders in my water and fuel tanks feeding a gage at the nav
station. The Fuel sender is failing and I want to replace it. However I can't
find an markings on the unit to determine the Ohm range it works with.
Is there some way to measure the resistance of the working sender to deter
If I read you right, I'm not sure this is a true statement as the EC has little
work to do replenishing a starting battery and settles out at a voltage well
below any that might be problematic for any type of battery.
Rich
> On May 8, 2014, at 11:44, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
> wrote:
Mike: they are pretty standard and any sender designed for boat use should
work. See: http://us.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=5707.
I recently repaired a sender by reattaching the end of the wire resistance
winding to the terminal post. Not a hard job that you might want to try befo
I took out the old Datamarine Sandpiper transducer that was installed with a
hole size of 2-1/16". My intention is to put a grocco 1-1/2" scoop strainer.
OD for this fitting is 1.9". Does anyone know or has experience with this
decision? Is 2-1/16" close enough to be called slightly larger than 1
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
Original message
From: Rich Knowles via CnC-List
Date:05/08/2014 11:34 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: "Fair, Mike" ,cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fuel Tank sender replacement
Mike: they are pretty standard and any sender designed
I think he meant it's not the *perfect* solution. The perfect solution
would be a separate voltage regulator for the starting battery, which
probably would mean a second alternator/charger, which just doesn't make
sense on our boats.
I worried for a few years when I watched a fully charged st
I’m in the same situation as Rich — flawless operation over several years, and
no issues.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On May 8, 2014, at 9:23 AM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List
wrote:
> Michael: Can you please explain why you s
If I recall correctly, you’re probably looking for a 270 ohm sender.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
On May 8, 2014, at 10:06 AM, Fair, Mike via CnC-List
wrote:
> I have tank senders in my water and fuel tanks feeding a gage at
It is a good idea to get one size oversize so they spin easily on the wire.
They don't hold moisture that way either.
Ken H.
On 8 May 2014 10:33, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
> Also, covering SS wire leads to more corrosion. Most riggers will tell
> you not to use them.
>
> You might cons
Is. Not the EC a voltage regulator?
Rich
> On May 8, 2014, at 13:00, Wally Bryant via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I think he meant it's not the *perfect* solution. The perfect solution would
> be a separate voltage regulator for the starting battery, which probably
> would mean a second alternato
We use a ½” piece of PVC pipe.about $2.00 and wipe with acetone to remove
the plumbing printing…….has worked great for over 10 years…
This year, we took the baby stay off. I’m just never going to be anywhere
where I’ll need it…
Ron C.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-lis
My race crew would complain about the weight and windage from PVC! We
unclip it for the 90% of the time it is not in use. I rarely need it when
cruising, and when racing the bowman is my human roller.
I use the plastic shroud covers on my dyneema lifelines. Otherwise, the
lifelines chafe throug
Not exactly. It has an upper limit and a low voltage disconnect, but it does
not regulate between these too.
See
http://www.sailnet.com/forums/electrical-systems/72295-xantrex-echo-charger-rant.html
for details.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-
Then they're really dangerous:)
Rich
> On May 8, 2014, at 13:54, Ken Heaton via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> It is a good idea to get one size oversize so they spin easily on the wire.
> They don't hold moisture that way either.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>> On 8 May 2014 10:33, Joel Aronson via CnC-List w
That's the sail net item I'm not sure about. I'm going to do some tests just to
satisfy my curiosity. Anyway, they do an excellent job of whatever they do:)
Rich
> On May 8, 2014, at 14:38, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
> wrote:
>
> Not exactly. It has an upper limit and a low voltage disco
Hopefully wasn't being too concise. I am technical by nature and by profession
( Electrical Engineer )
so do tend to cover more detail than necessary sometimes.
The overview of the post was for someone with an older C&C, original wiring
and alternator considering
a newer AGM large house bank. I
Aren't they all lead acid batteries of one sort or another...the lead acid
battery is pretty ancient technology...someone said the old C&C's didn't
come well equipped to handle the various types of lead acid batteries, my
question; why not?
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-lis
is no single charging profile that works when you are trying to charge a
barely discharged smaller
starting battery and a large fully discharged house battery in parallel.
Workaround - see solutions below. Note that a Voltage Sensitive Relay or Echo
Charger can help a bit but
is not a solution.
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Joel and Dennis,
If you really want to understand the how of why of sail aerodynamics, I would
suggest reading the book "the art and science of sails" by Tom Whidden. He
thoroughly debunks the Bernouli theory as applied to sails. His theory is quite
complex but well explained in the book and has
A friend of mine is looking for a well-priced C & C 37 R located in the north
east ( Annapolis to Maine. Any leads welcome
--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT
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Saw a well equipped racer for $40K a few months ago near Brooklyn. Many racing
sails and all the go fast lines. I'll try and find the link.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list"
Sent
Checkout Yachtworld.com for one in Halifax and one in Toronto.
www.sailboatlistings.com /view/26493 has the one in Brooklyn.
Be warned, these boats are 40 feet long and 8 ft draft.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "CNC boat owners, cnc-lis
The end plate effect is very real. I learned that long ago when windsurfing, if
you can setup your sail so you can rake the sail back and the foot touches the
board, you add power.. You can feel the acceleration immediately. Especially in
winds below 15 knots. As the wind builds above that, ever
You don't need to bevel. Just use the groco as a mold. Wax it so epoxy doesn't
stick to it. Rough up the old hole with 80 grit paper, acetone wipe, then fit
the groco into the hole so you can pour in a filler, maybe use string to hold
it in place, then mix up an epoxy filler such as West and 404
The one Chuck listed at: http://www.sailboatlistings.com/view/26493
now named "Kedyw" used to be named "Top Gun V" and was based in Puerto Rico
for years. Lawrence Anthony Aqui used to own her and he was on this list
for a while. I don't know anything about the present owners, they seemed to
have
The only main sail on my 38 mk II looks like it was probably the
original and really needs to be replaced.
Short of springing for a new main, I'm wondering if any of you have
advice on where to find good used mains. I've searched Bacon and the
other online sails sellers without any luck. The
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