Just received my rigging order from them. Exactly as described. BTW - no
discount on premade halyards. All in all a great experience - ordered Monday
received it Thursday with all ends nicely finished.
I went with the Yale product for a significant savings over StaSet. Between
that and the
Andrew,
The two boats are very similar, but each boat probably has conditions that
it will excel in. The C&C is narrower and lighter. It might do better in
light air. In light air the CS with a wider beam, deeper draft, and an
extra ton of weight might sail slower.
In heavy air, the CS m
I've decided to replace our flexible solar panel (mounted on the front hatch)
with a rigid one - more power for the same size, cheaper, and lasts longer. Am
debating whether to mount it on the bimini frame or off the stern rail. The
bimini mount would be nice except that we always collapse the
One the midwest's pioneer C&C dealers has passed away. Hugh Burr Rugeroni had
Burr Sailboats on Lake Ste Clair, Michigan and was responsible for the large
population of C&Cs in the area including a still very active 35 fleet.
Hugh was a very charming man with charisma and an infectious smile and
I have mine mounted on the Bimini. The mount will likely weigh more than the
panel. Ours are set up so that they also serve to keep the Bimini stretched
open so there is no need for straps forward. With that said taking the Bimini
off is a nuisance, folding it is impossible. We've had this
I just received a 50W panel that I plan to install in the spring. I plan to
put velcro strips on the sliding companionway hatch and mount it there when I
am not on the boat and move it below when I am. Dave
On Jan 11, 2014, at 11:42 AM, j...@svpaws.net wrote:
> I have mine mounted on the Bimi
Just realized it would be much easier to mount the panel on the pole (which
runs right along side the backstay) that supports the radar dome. Side-pole
mounts are quite available, not expensive, and with that I can put the panel
above where the bimini is located. Also like the idea of getting
Consider angleing the panel to the same/approximate degree as your normal
latitude. Envision the sun's rays impacting at a right angle to the face
of the panel. You can use a small rod or bolt extending perpendicular to
the panel. At high noon adjust the panel so that there is little to no
shado
Well, I don't see where angling would help much.you might get optimum
positioning on the day you installed but.surely the boat won't stay angled
the same way to the sun all the time, especially while under sail.would not
collector face up and parallel to the water be the best for maximum output?
Andrew:
After sailing on both boats, I wouldn't recommend you make your decision
based on PHRF ratings. Both boats will sail to their numbers with the
right crew.
A little story to help put things into perspective.a few seasons
back, I crewed on Beneteau 49 at our club for some of the W
This is indeed sad news. Hugh Rugeroni was one of the pioneers.
On Sat, Jan 11, 2014 at 10:39 AM, Greg Swetka wrote:
> One the midwest's pioneer C&C dealers has passed away. Hugh Burr Rugeroni
> had Burr Sailboats on Lake Ste Clair, Michigan and was responsible for the
> large population of C&C
Orienting the panel directly facing the solar radiation is most efficient. I
know cruisers who have panels that they can adjust throughout the day to get
maximum output. Personally, I think that is a PITA.
Orienting the panel at an angle off vertical equal to your latitude is the
next step. Als
I have a C&C 32 which has two drains in the cockpit both are connected to
separate seacocks (GROCO SV-1500) below the waterline, needless to say both
seacocks are difficult to get to, as a result they are both seized in the open
position. Has anyone changed this setup to drain water out above th
Any advice?
Thanks!
Sent from my Tablet
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
It's in the head. Never gets turned... now it won't.
Sent from my Tablet
On Jan 11, 2014 2:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll" wrote:
> Any advice?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Sent from my Tablet
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbu
Personally, I'm not a great fan of boats that drain the cockpit through
scuppers in the transom. Let's just say my experience has been less than
stellar. And I would think drilling a couple of 1 1/2" holes into the sides
of the boat, then putting seacocks in there is both ugly and results in
seacoc
John:
My advice to you is to unseize your seacocks and/or replace them if
unseizing is not possible. I would not change the setup to drain out
above the waterline.
Just how would you go about doing this? Doesn't make sense.
In doing so, are you going to leave the existing seacocks seized i
What brand is it? Some are fixable, some are trash.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 11 January 2014 14:07, Kevin Driscoll wrote:
> It's in the head. Never gets turned... now it won't.
>
> Sent from my Tablet
> On Jan 11, 2014 2:05 PM, "Kevin Driscoll" wrote:
>
>> Any ad
It may be Jabsco but I really can't tell. Not labeled but gray plastic.
Attached is a link to photo:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5jfrzvhxhdx2j5/IMG_20140111_151925.jpg
Thanks
Sent from a mobile device.
On Jan 11, 2014 3:09 PM, "Jim Watts" wrote:
> What brand is it? Some are fixable, some are tra
Marelon/fore spar?
On Saturday, January 11, 2014, Kevin Driscoll wrote:
> It may be Jabsco but I really can't tell. Not labeled but gray plastic.
> Attached is a link to photo:
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/c5jfrzvhxhdx2j5/IMG_20140111_151925.jpg
>
> Thanks
>
> Sent from a mobile device.
> On Jan 1
Yeah, it totally messed up my rig for the asym... I really didn't want
a sheet to go WHAP against the panels. But everything's a compromise...
David Knecht wrote:
Not a fan of anything rail mounted hanging over the boat but that's just me.
___
Th
Right. No one really does it year after year. I suppose you could rig
up some really cool electronic thing with servo motors that would
constantly adjust the panel angle...
I've noticed that leaving them down against the side of the boat when
underway actually provides reasonable amps. The
Hi Rob,
Nice to here from a fellow model owner. I would take the old seacocks out and
glass the hull, put new through hulls in (without valves similar to the propane
locker through hull) above the waterline. Our boat is in the water year round,
in fact we have not hauled it since we bought it i
Rick,
Thanks for the response, I have been through the whole maintenance issues with
the Grovo SV seacocks with Groco. The guy is very helpful. I was not thinking
of draining to the transom, but to each side just above the waterline. No
valves required as the boat is safe at the dock. Right now
It's a Bosworth. Looks fixable...
http://www.thebosworthco.com/sexploded.php?ID=YV-095D-F
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 11 January 2014 15:25, Kevin Driscoll wrote:
> It may be Jabsco but I really can't tell. Not labeled but gray plastic.
> Attached is a link to photo
Hi John
Try Princess Auto for grinding paste.
- Graham
Sent from my Xperia™ tablet
John Charlesworth wrote
>Hi Rob,
>
>Nice to here from a fellow model owner. I would take the old seacocks out and
>glass the hull, put new through hulls in (without valves similar to the
>propan
Dwight,
You are right. I was just thinking about my boat sitting in her slip 95%
of the time. I just kinda assumed that Eric was in a similar situation
because a 50W panel is really only enough to keep the batteries topped up
between outings anyway.
Josh
On Jan 11, 2014 2:14 PM, "dwight" wrote
27 matches
Mail list logo
