I'd be careful with any abrasive products. They'll eventually wear off the
gelcoat. The only abrasive I would even suggest for gelcoat is AquaBuff
2000. It's a polishing compound. It will smooth and polish gelcoat but is
still lightly abrasive.
I used to use SoftScrub with bleach but decided t
years.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
- Original Message -
From: "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: "Stevan Plavsa"
Sent: Tuesday, August 18, 2015 3:35:02 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rust stains and
@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dr. Mark Bodnar
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rust stains and welding
Thanks for all the replies - I'll look into the acid options locally.
As for the welding - I think my best bet is to suck it up - remove the rear
pulpit and take it into a shop for welding. The broken weld is right
From Wikipedia:
> Unlike some other abrasive cleaning products, such as Comet and Ajax, Bar
> Keepers Friend uses oxalic acid as its primary active ingredient.
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> On Aug 18, 2015, at 2:35 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-Lis
Barkeeper's Friend. Available at Canadian Tire. I swear by this stuff.
(it's acid based, forget which acid, but I've been using it on my gelcoat
for years on two boats).
Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
On Tue, Aug 18, 2015 at 3:01 PM, svpegasu...@gmail.com <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I think
I think hou are on the right track. You will get a better job. I can do
welding but when my stern pulpit need work I took it in. They did a much better
job than I could have done.
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.
__
Thanks for all the replies - I'll look into the acid options
locally.
As for the welding - I think my best bet is to suck it up - remove
the rear pulpit and take it into a shop for welding. The broken
weld is right at one of the deck anchors so it would be toug
Hi Mark,
I use phosphoric acid ~ 50% and a "scotchbrite" pad to clean up rust
stains. I think the principle ingredient of CLR is a dilute version
of what I use so it might take more time. Scrubbing with the pad &
acid defiantly speeds things up, allowing you to rinse in less time
than a soak.
homemade oxalic acid rust stain remover or this:
http://ca.binnacle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1083
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net
On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 4:48 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
Citric acid @ 20%
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 17, 2015, at 1:11 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> The heat of welding will change the physical properties of stainless, so he
> may (probably did) use stainless rod but it's now less stainless. You could
> try repassivating it with a pro
FSR, fiberglass stain remover. Takes out trusts stain. Use on my Florida,
sorry to say, power boat.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi
On the inland sea.
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Monday, August 17, 2015 Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
wrote:
Last year I had noticed a small crack in my re
The heat of welding will change the physical properties of stainless, so he
may (probably did) use stainless rod but it's now less stainless. You could
try repassivating it with a product called "Wichinox".
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10918|2303285|2303294&id=1819274
Davis FSR will
Muriatic acid will get ride of the rust stains. Sudbury Hull Cleaner
contains it.
My rigger welded my pushpit, but he is in Annapolis. Not sure what he used
for welding rod.
Joel
35/3
On Mon, Aug 17, 2015 at 3:48 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Last year I
Last year I had noticed a small crack in my rear pulpit tubing.
This spring before launch I hired a mobile welder to come out to the
boat repair the area - he had a tough time with the wind swirling and
had to repeatedly grind down the dirty weld to do it over.
The final repair was adequate (
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