Hi,
I am guessing that the LF39 stuffing box would be similar to the LF38.
I replaced the old hose on my LF38 with a hose manufactured by Buck Algonquin
purchased from deepblueyachtsupply.com.This is a high quality hose made
specifically for this purpose.
stuffing box hose B.A. part # 80H
Interesting...the OD on my hose is 2.75 inches...
My cutlass bearing appears fine. Thanks for your reply.
Lloyd
Sent from my iPad
> On Apr 7, 2025, at 10:54 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> I just replaced mine. According to my notes the OD is 2.25 inches. I'd of the
> log I have
I just replaced mine. According to my notes the OD is 2.25 inches. I'd of
the log I have no clue. The only bearing is in the strut.
Douglas Mountjoy
1988 C&C LF 39
Mexico at large
Transpacific 37
POYC
Port Orchard, WA
On Mon, Apr 7, 2025, 08:48 LKL via CnC-List wrote:
> Trying to find out the
Asking for this little bit of advice is going to bankrupt you!
Bill Coleman
On Fri, Mar 21, 2025, 10:55 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Maybe think about a dripless shaft seal, ans a shaft vibration damper.
> Inspect the shaft.
> I would've installed a shaft vibratio
Bill,
I guess that is why it is called "BOAT", a.k.a. 'Bring On Another Thousand'.
Rob Abbott
On 2025-03-21 4:21 p.m., Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:
Asking for this little bit of advice is going to bankrupt you!
Bill Coleman
On Fri, Mar 21, 2025, 10:55 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List
wrote:
Ed
Thank you for your response...I agree that replacing it is a prudent
thing to do.
However, I am looking for a more definitive answer as to the prudent
frequency of replacing it, e.g. # of engine hours, # of years, etc. What
is the normal expected life span of the this hose/gland that seals t
Maybe think about a dripless shaft seal, ans a shaft vibration damper.
Inspect the shaft.
I would've installed a shaft vibration damper if I had know I had room. The
boat was in Mexico and I was in Washington.
Douglas Mountjoy
1988 C&C Landfall 39
sv Rebecca Leah
On Fri, Mar 21, 2025, 08:43 John
Also repack stuffing box
On Fri, Mar 21, 2025, 10:37 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Might be a good time to also check your cutlass bearing as long as you are
> in the neighborhood! $$$ it's a boat, remember!?
>
> Bill Coleman
> Erie
>
> On Fri, Mar 21, 2025 at 8:
Might be a good time to also check your cutlass bearing as long as you are
in the neighborhood! $$$ it's a boat, remember!?
Bill Coleman
Erie
On Fri, Mar 21, 2025 at 8:59 AM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Thanks all for your response(s). I have made a decision to
Robert
I don’t think you are going to find a source that recommends the time game
to change the hose. Your boat is 40+ years old and I assume it is original.
The manufacturer of the dripless shaft seal I had installed on my prior
boat recommended changing the hose after 10 years. It is different
bearing and rebuilt prop
so no vibration, haul every winter for 6 months.
Your experience may vary.
John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2025 6:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Jeff Nelson
Subject: Stus-List Re:
I'd definitely replace it before it starts to come apart. That said...
I replaced mine a few years ago 1979 C&C 30. Guessing it was original.
There were cracks in the outer coating,
and I was starting to lose sleep over it. So, that's likely pushing it
to the extreme. The hoses don't get a
Robert
Change it on your next haul out. It is peace of mind.
Ed Levert
Briar Patch
1981 C&C 34
New Orleans, La
On Thu, Mar 20, 2025 at 2:17 PM Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> My C&C 32 has a 1" prop shaft. Where it enters the stern hull before
> the packing gland,
I’ve never used this method, but I read it a long time ago in a long forgotten
sailing mag.
Sounds like it might work!
Loosen the hose clamp and move it down below the end of the barb so it has only
hose to squash. Tighten down hard and it should break the seal between hose and
barb.
That’s th
What joel said or a small screwdriver usually does it. Just run it around
between the the hose and the barb and break up the "crustiness" then twist
and pull.
Kevin Benoit
225-205-2373
On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 5:24 PM Ken Heaton wrote:
> Thanks Joel, I'll be getting one of those.
>
> Ken H.
>
Thanks Joel, I'll be getting one of those.
Ken H.
On Thu, 15 Oct 2020 at 11:51, Joel Aronson wrote:
> My mechanic carries one of these:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4521-Hose-Removal-Tool/dp/B0050SFZBG
>
> (His may be a higher grade).
>
> Joel
>
October is the time to show your appreciation w
My mechanic carries one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4521-Hose-Removal-Tool/dp/B0050SFZBG
(His may be a higher grade).
Joel
On Wed, Oct 14, 2020 at 4:42 PM Josh Muckley wrote:
> I often find that I have to slice the hose axially and then peal it open
> in order to get hoses off. Of c
I often find that I have to slice the hose axially and then peal it open in
order to get hoses off. Of course if you want to save the hose this may
not be a good option. In that case I would try a heat gun or hair dryer
and channel locks. Assuming it is diesel you shouldn't have any problems
wit
I need to replace my fuel fill hose on my 33 mk ii but the old hose really
doesn't want to come off either the fuel tank or the deck filler. Any
suggestions other than brute force? Access at the deck filler is limited
to getting one hand through a deck plate opening.
Also, I would like to repla
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