Russ - thanks for the west coast humour - yes we are lucky here to have our
boats in the water year round - though it does have its downsides too in
that the hulls never dry out and growth on the bottom continues even in the
winter.
The torques I applied to the 3/4 inch bolts were around 140 foot
Josh and Rob - thanks for your comments. I did torque the bolts while in
the water after reading a convincing post about how little extra torque is
needed to overcome the weight of the keel (think of the leverage of each
bolt's screw thread). The suggestion for a much heavier keel only worked
out
Status update: I ended up torquing the keel bolts. They were not incredibly
loose but all of them needed tightening, two by a turn or more and the
other two by less than a turn. I will know if this removed the keel
movement when the boat is next hauled out, although I am also thinking of
diving on
Thanks Denis for the suggestion - I will read up on torque multipliers.
Joe - Thanks for your comments. The C&C 24 has large stainless washers (in
one case quite a few of them stacked) to spread the load. I will go
carefully so as not to crush the fibreglass and if I cannot approach the
correct to
For anyone interested, the keel bolt nuts on the C&C 24 are 3/4 inch at the
front of the keel followed by 3 nuts that are 1 1/8". I found the forward
nut (the only one I had a socket for) to be barely more than hand
tightened. According to specs I found on the C&C owners site this should be
at 80 f
Hi John,
Thanks for the tip - will take a look at the Mirage 24 site.
Regards,
Chris
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Hi Mike,
Thanks for the suggestions. I will test the torque of the bolts later today
if my socket is deep enough to do so. If they have not been tightened for
35 years (and the original long term owner assured me he had never done so)
then maybe this is the issue.
Regards,
Chris
_
>
> Thanks Gary and Joe for your positive comments and suggestions. As I
> replied to Rob, I am also going to check the keel bolt torques as this may
> be the underlying issue. I will definitely rebuild the mast step as well
> and get this area level before replacing the compression post base.
Re
things can be fixed but how much time and money
>> are you willing to put into the boat.
>>
>> I'd call the surveyor back and ask him his opinion on the cost of a
>> repair (if he would provide one, he might not, but he just might be an
>> honest guy and tell
Lewis - thanks for the suggestion re the video - they did a great job of
repairing the floors in that boat - what a huge project! The link is here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyKy-cDy6e8
Neil - thanks for your comments. I wish I had been there for the survey but
it was done by the buyer in an
m his opinion on the cost of a repair
> (if he would provide one, he might not, but he just might be an honest guy
> and tell you what you are in for even if you decide to do the repairs
> yourself).
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On
back and ask him his opinion on the cost of a repair
> (if he would provide one, he might not, but he just might be an honest guy
> and tell you what you are in for even if you decide to do the repairs
> yourself).
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - #277
> Halifax,
Hi folks,
I own Drifter, a C&C 24 from 1985. A recent survey by a potential buyer
found that despite the keel being well attached (no 'smile' or obvious
issues with the sump to keel joint) the keel moves up to 4 inches from side
to side while the boat is hanging in the slings. The surveyor attribu
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