"I pulled both chainplate cover plates and noticed that I had a stainless rod
on starboard that holds the two chainplates pieces together. One on port is
missing." I had rods from from the chain plates down to frame work in the hull.
This was on my LF38. The standing rigging went to u-bolts on t
Hi John Had similar issues on my 34. Silicone, 4200 and similar all
failed as did not adhere well to the stainless chain plates as they move a
lot as rig tensions. Only thing that has worked is butyl. Going on 10
years and no leaks. Not sure what benefits the stainless pin provides as is
not wel
Hi Jeff,
Regarding epoxy, I can still get my chainplates out. That’s why I put a
releasing agent on them. Once the epoxy hardened, I took them back out, and
now the cutouts are a better fit around the chainplates. But you have a point
about movement. Next time I get in there, I’ll have to i
Greetings,
Can I please have my email address removed from the CnC-list?
Thank you, Richard J. Walter
Thanks. Will dissemble the bolts etc and check them out.
From: Jeffrey A. Laman via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2022 6:12 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: Jeffrey A. Laman
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.
I second the sealing with butyl. Do NOT use silicone or 4200. The epoxy idea
ma
Thanks Mike!
From: MICHAEL BRANNON via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, March 21, 2022 5:39 PM
To: Stus-List
Cc: MICHAEL BRANNON
Subject: Stus-List Re: Chainplate Sealing.
John, I’ve owned my 36-1 since 1997. I’ve yet to make the chainplates quit
leaking but I’ve certainly reduced the amount.
Well…
I’ll add my experience. First, I do use butyl as much as possible, but found
chainplates a difficult application. The main problem we’re the cover plates
are welded to the chainplate. This makes it difficult to get a significant
amount of butyl in place still allowing the mounting bolts t
I second the sealing with butyl. Do NOT use silicone or 4200. The epoxy idea
may be ok, but messy and no going back. "Beefing up" the plates wont do any
harm but isn't necessary. These plates effectively protect the sealant. That's
it. Check the balsa core around the penetration. Depending on ex
Not so fast. I'm a fan of 3M, and used to be a fan of 4200. However, in
December 2021 Practical Sailor reported that after several years, firmed up
4200 reverted back to goop. Practical Sailor asked 3M about this, but as of
the April 2022 "3M has offered no comment on the cause or global impact
John, I’ve owned my 36-1 since 1997. I’ve yet to make the chainplates quit
leaking but I’ve certainly reduced the amount. First, I doubt that the balsa
around your chainplates is sealed. Mine wasn’t. I had to replace core
material on the starboard side. Second. Those aluminum trim pie
Hi John,
I resealed the chainplates on my 30 MK I about five years ago with advice from
Dennis Cheuvront here on the list. I removed the chainplates (there’s only one
per side on a 30 MK I) and dug out maybe a half-inch of wet / rotted balsa core
around the cutouts between the fiberglass layer
John,
Many would suggest 3M 4200, but silicone has issues. I swear by butyl tape (it
never hardens out completely and it is very flexible). The best source is Maine
Sail (Compass Marine https://marinehowto.com/), though, I am not sure if he
still sells this stuff (he had a bad hard attack last
3M 4200
From: John McCrea via CnC-List
Sent: March-21-22 5:28 PM
To: 'Stus-List'
Cc: johnmcc...@comcast.net
Subject: Stus-List Chainplate Sealing.
Hello. I have a leak on my port side chainplate that needs addressing. I
pulled both chainplate cover plates and noticed that I had a stainle
Hello. I have a leak on my port side chainplate that needs addressing. I
pulled both chainplate cover plates and noticed that I had a stainless rod
on starboard that holds the two chainplates pieces together. One on port is
missing. Maybe that is causing excess movement and more adapt to leak? The
The Brass are a little fatter, but you don’t have to worry about SS on SS
Galling.
https://www.rockler.com/e-z-knife-threaded-insert-for-hard-wood-brass-pack-of-25
The SS ones allow for a smaller hole. Similar in price. I put a thin coating of
tefgel on a screw, put it in the helicoil, an
Chuck that sounds like a good plan. I replaced my exterior teak handrails five
years ago (1972 30 MK I hull #79) and they were fastened almost the same way -
with long wood screws through the interior handrails and cabintop (no nuts
involved). When I reassembled I fastened them the same way (w
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