Suck them in with a good meal and lots of liquor. Then put them in shackles
and whip them frequently. Dousing them with salt water helps.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On Mon, 16 Dec 2019 at 20:31, Randy Stafford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I got some ad
I got some advice on this topic about five years ago from a female J/22 racer I
really respect. She said get some of your good friends, people you like to
spend time with, and make them into your crew - regardless of how little
sailing experience they have. I took her advice and that’s how I r
There is not much consistency between PHRF districts on rating adjustments for
items like sail measurements or prop type. That makes comparing the class PHRF
( SP - speed potential ) and individual boat PHRF ( ASP - adjusted speed
potential )
difficult without knowing all the details.
As an exa
Word of mouth and reaching out seems to work better than “crew list” boards.
FWIW (not much), in my experience you need to find people who are committed to
going all the time (like every race in the schedule) and, in turn, you as
skipper also need to be equally committed. If you don’t race all
New topic, I'm trying to help a friend
You guys who race, Got any tips on finding and keeping good crew?
Chuck
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support
My Landfall 39 tipped the travel lift scales at 23800, in full live aboard
status. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah C&C LF39253-208-1412Port Orchard YC wa.
null___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is gr
Shawn,
Did the marna forget to look below and pump out the 2 1/2 tons of water
that was up to the v-berth ??
Don
Fireball C&C 35 Mk2
On 12/16/2019 6:55 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
I was told by the crane operator that my 35-2 weighed 19,000 lbs at
haulout, which seems a bit excessive,
I was told by the crane operator that my 35-2 weighed 19,000 lbs at
haulout, which seems a bit excessive, even with full tanks and cruising
gear. The crane is limited to 20,000 lbs, and since at least two other
larger boats were hauled at the same time (Cabot 36 - 17,800 rated and
Hughes 38 - 14,80
I weighed Grenadine (hull #79, 1972) on a truck scale when I bought her -
trailer with loaded boat, less empty trailer after launch. By unloading and
weighing all loose gear I calculated she weighed 8682 pounds with empty tanks
and nothing aboard but her two batteries. Her as-sailed weight is
Absolutely! To the pound. Hahahaha! /S
Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 16, 2019, at 3:26 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> So does the 35 MK I really weigh 10,500 pounds?
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
>> On 12/16/2019 4:02 PM, CHARLES SCHEA
I seem to recall a story about C&C 99 number one. When it was shipped to
Annapolis for the boat show, it was “not quite done”, so the story goes. It had
a cobbled together interior – I heard it was made of some 110 parts, but cut
down and very light.
Then the boat was shown at the show and s
+1 to Chuck regarding marketing.
OTOH, given the potential variations in the layup of our 'not one design boats'
as they were manufactured, with different masts, keels, interior fit-outs, etc.
etc., I doubt that even the designer/builder knows how much the boat weighs
when it leaves the factory
So does the 35 MK I really weigh 10,500 pounds?
Joe
Coquina
On 12/16/2019 4:02 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
Sometimes marketing people adjust specifications to sell boats. I
would call it lying, but sales people call it marketing. I'm a person
who would pour over data and spec
Sometimes marketing people adjust specifications to sell boats. I would call
it lying, but sales people call it marketing. I'm a person who would pour over
data and specifications to make a buying decision and the sales guys know us
and simply change the manufacturing specs to sell product. A
David
PHRF ratings in Narr Bay are done on the apparent design performance of
specific class variants (Mk-1, Mk-2, dk, cb, tm, etc} and then any of
the boat's modifications that are shown on that boats PHRF application
(weight reduction, sail areas, etc.) This is compared to other boats
racing
I used something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Products-Retail-Flexible-Replacement/dp/B07HRFF4LW/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=no+spill+spout&qid=1576526251&sr=8-5
– it works fine, but the ribbed spout will break eventually (and you may not
notice).
Lately I bought a similar design, but t
Hi Pete, I have one of the Quinte Canvas ones meant for mast up
storage. I can't get to the boat until mid to late May though...after that I
can send you some dimensions. Quinte Canvas does have the measurements for the
30-2 on file though I don't know if he (Dave Davis) would share
I use solder to connect the float switch for my electric bilge pump and
cover the joints with heat shrink tubing then tie the soldered wire joints
off high in the bilge close to the cabin sole. The positive wire is
connected directly to the positive terminal of the battery with in line
fuse a few i
My bilge pumps are on circuit breakers, so I don't have that issue, but
I suppose I would if I ever get an automatic pump. I do have a few
things that use those connections and so far none have ever come off on
their own. The fit is pretty tight. You can always get vice grips and
squeeze the fi
PHRF of the Chesapeake gives credit for genoas under 140%. 140 is the same
as 155 for ratings purposes.There is an adjustment for
folding/feathering props, but I think it is only 6 seconds.
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 1:46 PM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> PHRF of t
PHRF of the Chesapeake assumes you have a prepared boat. That means good to
excellent sails, a crack crew, clean bottom, folding or feathering prop, and so
forth. They used to assume a 155% genoa, but I have seen some adjustments for
smaller or larger (class boats). They are also coming up with
Joel,
Not that I know of. Touche's bilge switch is high up in a bulkhead in a
secure place where nothing will fall on or contact the back of the switch
or the wires. The push on connectors are Ancor and fit tightly. The wires
are secured in a manner that there is and will be no strain on the
co
The listed weight of the 30-1 on the spec sheets is 8000#. I doubt there was
ever one that light. The ones which have been weighed seem to hover around
9000. After looking at Rich’s #1, I can see a lot of differences, such as his
chainplate system. And, after seeing pictures of other boats – min
Pete,
I have the cover you want avaiable for sale. I had it built for Septima, a
30-2, when I used to winter store her on the hard in CT. Haven't had beed
for years.
I am returning to NE NC at the end of the month.
Allen Miles
S/V Septima
Hampton, VA
On Sun, Dec 15, 2019 at 12:01 PM kelly petew
Now that's funny!
Dennis C.
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 11:55 AM Lee Youngblood via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Not Coast Guard approved, but I used to do some interesting trips on a 19’
> Cape Dory Typhoon, with an English Seagull outboard. We used a couple one
> gal red plastic fue
David,
PHRF NE covers not only Buzzards Bay but also Cape Cod Bay and Marblehead
the latter being a notoriously light air location in the summer. It seems
like various regions try to gauge averages to meet the widest range of
sailing conditions. In YRLIS, an area for which the C&C 40 was designe
Not Coast Guard approved, but I used to do some interesting trips on a 19’ Cape
Dory Typhoon, with an English Seagull outboard. We used a couple one gal red
plastic fuel cans, and then filled a couple bicycle water bottles with fuel,
for daily use. It was easier to squirt in a little fuel when
This does not explain why my 40's base rating is slower in a light air venue
(Narragansett) and faster in breezy venue (Buzzards Bay) when the boat
historically is a faster light air boat.
One of the reasons I only race long distance vs. Chasing my tail around buoys.
Too subjective even at bas
The brand is “No Spill”. Real mixed reviews on amazon. Seems the company has
been bought out, newer products aren’t lasting. I was looking at just the
spout, as I have plenty of small motor cans, but it seems the cap size is
proprietary and won’t fit other brand cans.
https://smile.amazon.com
That is why I use heat shrink crimp connectors, coat the wire with tef gel
before crimping, shrink the tubing and follow with coating the connector with
liquid electrical tape.Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Date:
Doug,
What brand is it?
My beef is mainly with the ones where you have to push the spout to pour.
Dennis C.
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 10:11 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I didn’t think this was going to be a controversial topic, but I have a
> “No-Spill” (that br
I have a couple old fashioned metal cans with the spring-loaded handles
that I love. They do not let ANY gas smell escape, so they don't smell
up my car. I got the first one for free when someone left it in our
"freecycle" spot, AKA next to the dumpster*, and I liked it so much I
bought a seco
Ditto. You can buy “illegal” replacements at any decent hardware store.
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2019 10:53 AM
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List My outboards..
I HATE most of the new "spill proof" cans. They're a PIA to operate. Sorry.
Hot but
While we are talking about bilge pump controls, is there a switch that does
NOT use the crappy slide on connectors? I've zip-tied so they are not
likely to get pulled off, but it is still only a friction fitting.
If anything on the boat needs a secure connection, it is the bilge pump!
--
Joel
_
I didn’t think this was going to be a controversial topic, but I have a
“No-Spill” (that brand) gas can I use for my snowblower/lawn mower and I think
it is great. I have had it for years and don’t spill any fuel using it. You
can control the flow rate by how far you push the button. I am plan
I'm not 100% sure but I think the outboard with an internal fuel tank are
gravity fed. You would most likely need a fuel pump of some sort. With no
battery the could be difficult to rig. As for the other option "spill proof"
gas can. I tend to spill more fuel with them than to old style. I like
I HATE most of the new "spill proof" cans. They're a PIA to operate.
Sorry. Hot button of mine.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Dec 16, 2019 at 8:47 AM David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Got them all running myself. Great learning process and a
> heck
Got them all running myself. Great learning process and a heck-uva-lot-cheaper
than sending out to an "expert".
For the little one with an internal tank. Re-filling fuel is always a messy
process. Thinking of plumbing in an external tank or purchasing a
"Spill-Proof" gas can.
Any experience
My two cents; With hundreds of boats to rate, I wouldn't expect the rating
committees to make any rating adjustment unless there was a serious complaint
or an appeal to get their attention, and some good solid race results to make a
judgement. Someone I know asked for an appeal to raise his ra
You could contact Quinte Canvas (Top Shop). I know they have all the sizes
on file and have built many of them. I'm not sure if they'd want to sell
one or just provide the sizes, but they're supposed to be a great product.
On Sun., Dec. 15, 2019, 12:01 p.m. kelly petew via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc
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