Iinstalled PlasDek on a deck hatch on a trawler years ago. See:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsV2NVZ1hmaGJ6cEU/view?usp=drivesdk
It was pretty straightforward. For interiors look at PlasTeak.
www.plasteak.com
There are several instructional videos online.
If I ever put a teak/ho
That would be great Mike, I believe you said you put a finish on it? I am
located in Halifax, Nova Scotia and own a C&C 99
Rod
Sent from my iPhone
> On Nov 9, 2019, at 5:43 PM, Mike Taylor via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Rod
>
> Here is a link to the product I purchased from Defender. C
Hi Rod
Here is a link to the product I purchased from Defender. Correction on product
name. PlasTeak is the trade name. Lonseal makes them all.
https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C2276179%7C2276198%7C2276201&id=3325405
I’m on the east coast now I could provide pics next week when
I think a lot of owners go a bit overboard with seeking perfection in the
cabin sole. My 45 year old 35mkii has original teak snd holly sole. It’s
attached with adhesive to whatever is underneath. I stripped it bare about
12 years ago and lightly sanded then cleaned and applied only 1 coat of
Sikk
DaveI went with PlasTeak a few years ago. New plywood with 2 coats of West system epoxy. Looks real good. Got it at Defender. Can send some tips and pics if you desire.MikeBegin forwarded message:From: David Knecht via CnC-List Date: November 9, 2019 at 9:22:28 AM ASTTo: CnC discussion list CnC
Dave,
Thank you so much. That was just what I needed. Thanks for the advice. Hope to
do the same for you some day.
Sent from my Android. Please forgive typos. Thank you.
From: syerd...@gmail.com
Sent: Saturday, November 9, 2019 12:46:45 PM
To: David Risch ; C&c
Thanks to you Stu for all your dedicated work over the years.
As we communicated a few weeks ago – please leave me off the regular list – now
boatless and forever bailing out my in box. Ciao
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stu via
CnC-List
Sent: Saturda
I've been varnishing adjacent to my job for decades. I’m a practical
traditionalist when it comes to vanishing. When I stripped and refinished the
sole on Peregrine, my 40, I built up using a few coats of Pettit clear sealer
applied over a day. This I let cure for a few days, then after a light
Thanks for letting us know Mike.
See you soon dear.
At 08:30 AM 11/9/2019, you wrote:
Ok. Leaving home now. Will be there in 15 mins
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Matthew
L. Wolford via CnC-List
Sent: November 9, 2019 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
I doubt I meet your requirement however a basic test:
Use a digital ohmmeter to test for open, (none or poor conductivity) short
(no resistance between shield and centre conductor).
You will need a meter, and a short jumper wire with alligator clips each end.
Use the resistance scale (oh
I just replaced the VHF wire in my mast and crimped on new connectors. Would
like to test it to make sure all is well before the mast goes up in the spring.
Any suggestions from those much smarter than I regarding these matters?
Thanks in advance.
__
Ok. Leaving home now. Will be there in 15 mins
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford
via CnC-List
Sent: November 9, 2019 12:06 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
Subject: Re: Stus-List Cabin Sole resurfacing
I'm in the middle of this proj
I'm in the middle of this project. I was planning on doing the new
plywood/fake teak and holly thing, but last year something happened that
changed my mind. While doing a different project, I spilled some acetone on
a floorboard that caused the varnish to peel. I decided to fix that one
boar
On Persistence we went with new teak and holly. Thankfully one sheet did
entire job because was well over 600 CAD at the time. West epoxy on bottom and
sides using special hardener (the one for wood). Top three coats west epoxy
followed by four costs epiphanes satin varnish. Extremely import
Bruce,
I used Awlgrip’s Awlwood MA Gloss and Primer on the teak and holly surface.
Finished off with a regular satin finish varnish. I used West System epoxy to
seal the rest of the surfaces.
http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2015-03-16T14:37:00-07:00&max-results=7&start=13&by
I managed to salvage the teak and holly floor on my boat with a bunch of
sanding and then revarnishing. I glued the plywood back together where it was
delaminating near the edge and ended up sanding through the the holly stops
near a few edges where it was in rough shape but it still looks prett
I’ve done my cabin sole twice since buying the boat in 1997. I thought about
using a non-wood covering product on this last iteration. When I started to
price out the cost of okume marine plywood plus the cost of the covering there
were now real savings to be had compared to buying two sheets of
I'm looking at replacing ours as well, though probably sometime next year.
What is the preferred method of sealing and varnishing the wood? What varnish
did you use? Did you seal the underside with epoxy? If so, what kind?Bruce
Whitmore 1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"Sent from Samsung tablet.
null
But expensive!?! I did mine as well and the 4x8 sheet was over $700. Looks
great now though.
Neil
1982 C&C 32, FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD
Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
From: CnC-List on behalf of Stephen Thorne via
CnC-List
Sent: Saturday,
I had the same project on my 34+ and after looking at various options ended
up ordering a new sheet of teak & holly plywood. Was a little more effort
but I wanted to stay with the wood sole. Love the end results.
Steve Thorne
Deja Vu
1990 34+
On Sat, Nov 9, 2019 at 8:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-
The cabin sole on my boat is not in great shape. There are areas where the
holly stripes and are gone or pulling away. I am considering what to do and
have a vague recollection of someone using a glue-on faux teak/holley covering
over the wood (Nautikflor?) but I can’t find that discussion an
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