Brian:
Your question is too open-ended for a meaningful response. Do you want a
No. 3 for racing, or are you looking for a cruising sail? Are you wondering if
that size is big enough (or small enough) for the perceived need? Do you want
new or used?
A racing No. 3 is typically somew
If its a furling jib go with a 125 which will easily furl to 110. Go with 8
oz dacron cross cut for a long life affordable sail. Doyle made a dandy 135
for my boat and it really moves the boat along quite well, fast really.
Good idea to deal with a local sail loft you might learn a lot.
On Thu, Ja
Thanks for the feedback. Ed.
Brian
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
On Thu, Jan 31, 2019 at 3:28 PM, Edd Schillay via
CnC-List wrote:
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciat
Brian,
I have never sailed on a 34, but it looks very similar to my 38 in
design but a little more tender. When I replaced my 155% I went with a
120% and I'm very happy with it for a cruising sail. Plenty of power for
cruising, much easier handling I had the old UK loft (now North) in
Ann
Brian,
At 100 or 110%, that’s pretty small — practically a storm jib — which I’m
guessing you won’t bring out until it’s really blowing. In that case, I’d stick
to some heavy-duty Dacron.
Suggest you reach out to National Sail Supply — nationalsail.com. They make
some sails at great prices.
My 1979 C&C 34 is only equipped with a 155 headsail. Would like to have a 100
or 110 on hand. Any ideas?
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.
Edd,
I will grab it...thanks!
David F. Risch, J. D.
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650
From: CnC-List on behalf of Edd Schillay via
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2019 1:51 PM
To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Subject: Stus-
Listers,
If anyone wants it, I’m giving away a used Quantum Sails 135% RF genoa for a
C&C 37+. It’s free to anyone that wants it — just need to pick it up at my
office in Westchester County, NY or send a pre-paid shipping label.
Dacron/Mylar constriction
#6 luff tape
tell-tales and tell-tale w
Wow, I just read up on Flair-It and see they've been around a while and have a
25 year warranty though this is the first I heard of them. Nicely engineered
and no-tools needed unless you use their Pex-Lock fittings which can be
installed with simple pliers. Amazing US engineering and manufacture
Josh was correct in that PEX and QEST are different and my experience was with
the QEST piping originally supplied on my boat. It leaked quite frequently
over the early years and, unless you live aboard like we do, you would probably
never notice it. We noticed it through the cycling of the fr
I agree with your plan. Work from aft and leave the forward skin in place. I
would be highly suspicious of any stainless bolts that went through wet core. I
actually think it would be a 50/50 shot between the glass ripping off the hull
and crevice corrosion making the bolts let loose.
Biggest pa
Yes, I’m a PEX fan. I replaced all of my fresh water lines with PEX. For
fittings, I used “Flair-It” fittings as recommended by Wally on his Stella Blue
site. These fittings provide a bullet-proof water tight compression fit seal,
and they are easy to install: just push it in and screw it ti
Josh,
I was scolded by Peggy Hall (The Head Mistress) for suggesting the use of
choline in every fresh water fill up. Supposedly, you should shock-treat the
tank in the spring and then it should be fine as long as you don’t introduce
suspect water into it (and use it regularly). One big point i
David,
the pex installation with the simple pex insert fittings and band clamps
are no more expensive that any other hosed connection. It can be more
expensive if you make it that way by using shark bite fittings and
such. The banded clamps are really cheap and it you're not adding
valves o
Thanks Dennis,
I thought it through and I agree that grinding away the existing tabs on
the aft side is probably my best option because If I were to try to
preserve the tabbing and only cut out some of the aft skin to replace the
core I won't be able to fit the new core I build into this tight spa
Stale water will grow biologics no matter how much light gets in. I always
chlorinate my tanks so the water stays fresh. I find that 1Tbsp per 20 gal
tank is a good compromise between drinkability and cleanliness.
Josh
On Thu, Jan 31, 2019, 8:47 AM David via CnC-List Josh, Bob (and others),
>
Josh, Bob (and others),
Thank you. I was thinking simple plastic barbed fittings with reinforced hose
and hose clamps are simple and effective. My only concern, from reading, is
the hose not being opaque enough to eliminate any growth in the lines. But
then, these water hoses are all hidden
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