David,
I tend to look a bit askance at Teflon tape myself. I have a fear of a
small piece of tape finding its way somewhere I don't want it.
Try to find some of the TuffGel. It's a good product. I use it on threads
on boats but tend to use regular pipe thread sealant (pipe dope) around the
hou
I'm a huge fan of Teflon tape. The white stuff is usually good enough. I
use it everywhere. I've found that too much is worse than none at all. I
work in an industry where pipe fittings and caps are used all the time. We
rarely use sealants of any kind and simply tighten until it stops leaking
Are you saying you want a continuous lifeline with a pelican hook at the
bow pulpit and another at the stern pulpit? You drop one or the other
depending on whether you're bow or stern in?
You can use the recommended lifeline wire for that. I replaced lifelines
on a J30 where we just put a turnbu
Bruce wrote:
> As for the tool at West Marine, I was asking so that I could do the work
> myself not so much to save money, but simply to do the work myself if
> reasonably easy. I've not had particularly good luck relying on the skill
> of others.
>
> All opinions are always welcome!
>
Looks li
My original thought for using 7x19 is that the wire strength is nearly
identical, it would not have the coating which hides corrosion as Neil
mentioned, and I want more flexibility than 1x19 offers. I want that
flexibility because of the dock configuration I commonly deal with here in west
Flo
I understood that coated lifelines were no longer approved for use. You can’t
see corrosion or strand breaks if it is covered.
Neil
1982 C&C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD
Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
From: CnC-List on behalf of Chuck Gilchre
7x19 wire is designed for running rigging or any application where the wire
needs to bend. 1x19 is preferable in a static application. If you reference
Loos and Co., their guide for lifelines is 7x7 with a PVC coating.
I would also heed the CS Johnson guidelines for using the proper tool fo
The issue is when the cockpit holes AND the thru-hulls are both below the line.
Neil
1982 C&C 32 FoxFire
Rock Hall, MD
Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661
From: CnC-List on behalf of Garry Cross via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 2:1
Interesting, on the 35-2 there are 4 drains and 2 through hulls. I don't
think they are above the waterline.
The aft cockpit floor is lower than the forward one. Both sets of drains
are forward.
Replaced valves and hoses a few years ago. Reused the through hulls
although the tabs inside got busted
I would use 1 x 19. 7x19 can barb and it loves ripping sails. Seen it happen
more than once.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 2, 2019, at 8:42 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+. I am going to go with
> bare 7/19 wire,
I will have to look. I think I have threaded ends on there that are hardly
bigger than the lifelines themselves.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Neil
Gallagher via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 11:31 AM
To: D
I have a bag of those sleeves somewhere. I got them years ago when I was
replacing my lifelines. They are Heyco 98 437-5 Snap Bushings. Yeah, you
never would have found them even with the power of Google.
Touche's lower lifelines pass easily through the lower holes in the
stanchion with just a
Neil, it's not uncommon to have a smaller diameter lifeline on the lower
location. I would be judicious about drilling out the stanchions to
accommodate a larger diameter. The sanctions with which I am familiar have
sleaves in the holes to prevent the hard rough edges from wearing on the
cable.
I would use 1X19 wire for lifelines. I think 7X19 is perfectly strong enough,
but the strands tend to grab hair and not let it go. Just a minor irritant, I
know, but we do tend to lean on the lifelines and many will find this a pain!
Andy
Andrew Burton
139 Tuckerman Ave
Middletown, RI
USA02
Hi Dennis- After having problems with leaking joints of threaded home plumbing
projects, I did some reading on line about how professionals make joints
without leaks. The overwhelming consensus was that teflon tape is useless and
that is consistent with my experience. So I never use teflon tap
When I made my new lifelines last year, I bought a crimping tool at Bacon
Sails. It was a little metal block with holes for 4 sizes of crimps, with a
bolt on each end that gets tightened down to make the crimp. It cost about $35
and was handy as can be.
Steve Demore
S/V Doin’ It Right
C&C
Dave,
I commend you for being able to budge the anode with the heater still in place.
I tried and failed. I managed to do it only after the heater was out of the
boat.
Happy New Year!
Marek
From: CnC-List On Behalf Of David Knecht via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 2, 2019 10:17
To: CnC
Joe,
Lifeline replacement is high on my list for this spring, so let me ask a
question. I have two lines each side, the upper passes through
relatively large eyes on top of the stanchions while the lower passes
through holes barely bigger than the wire diameter, drilled through each
stanchio
Both? Kinda. Actually, TefGel makes a pipe thread compound, Tuff-Gel. I
have some. However, it's hard to find and probably not worth the effort.
I think pipe joint compound would work fine. Teflon tape would probably be
OK also.
Dennis C.
On Wed, Jan 2, 2019 at 9:17 AM David Knecht via CnC-L
Not all West Marine shops are any good at rigging. The Annapolis West Marine
has an actual rigging shop in the store and made my lifelines for pretty cheap.
If you don’t have gates in the middle it is just 2 pieces of wire, 4 ends, and
labor to press them on. I think it was something like $120 o
I wanted to report back on progress on this job. I had sprayed the water
heater anode with PB Blaster and tried again with the same pipe wrench and
still no luck. Then I pulled out my bigger wrench to try. It was very
difficult to find an angle to get it on in a place I could pull on, but fin
Confession Time...
While I have the diary for individual disbursement, the call, it seems, was not
recorded.
Ugh. Sorry.
Highlights;
* becalmed 12 hours, encountered 3 storms, never over 40 knots.
* Every day sent out three or four VHF calls noting that he did not need
help and if w
FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage tool against
the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging Only fabricate
replacements.
From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Usi
You need to use a crimping tool not a swaging tool. They are different
tools. They are NOT interchangeable. I have both.
This is the crimp tool: https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=338042
You can use one of these: https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1044153
With the lever style you
That crimper is supposed to be properly "calibrated". I say it will
probably get you through in a pinch but a "proper" roller swage is IMO a
better option. A lot of local boat yards, particularly those that do
rigging, will have a roller swaging tool. I think you'll be much happier
with the outc
Hello all,
I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+. I am going to go with bare
7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings. For the hand crimp stud
fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool. West Marine's had swage
tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) fittings
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