I worked on the boat tonight removing all hoses and wires. Using a large
screwdriver at the edge I was able to get the tank moving. I think it will lift
right out now. I'll wait for a second pair or hands to help with the actual
removal.
Looking through the level sensor hole I can see a small s
For cleaning: Vinegar and water. Period.
Refinishing: I like Epiphanes Rubbed Effect varnish. Easy to work with and
leaves a lovely satin finish.
Andy
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
>
_
Hi Gerald,
Not sure you really want to be in a confined space with ammonia. Three parts
triggered a mold note I saved:
Mold control from Practical Sailor
The two homemade spray formulas we tested each cost about one penny per ounce.
Like the other mildew preventers in our test, you use these
Some time ago there were a series of posts on the best methods for cleaning and
refinishing the interior woodwork on a C&C, I seem to have lost these posts,
can anyone give me the advice again all I remember is that the cleaning
solution was a 3 part mixture one of the ingredients being ammonia.
ch means running it up into the stbd
> lazarette. I'm hesistant about that because our lazarette is jam packed
> full while cruising (it's our only large storage space).
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL:
> <http://cn
Imzadi has a bronze Groco siphon break installed. The PO had saved around $400,
when converting from the original A4 to the Universal diesel, by cutting
corners on the exhaust elbow, hose routing, and the siphon break. Worked fine
for 7 years and about 600 hours. Then I came in from sailing with
I can't remember who loaned me that and my email archives got corrupted so
I can't check. Worked like a charm.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 29 January 2018 at 13:45, Ken Heaton via CnC-List
wrote:
> Here is a link to a video for the process: https://www.youtube.
> com/
Here is a link to a video for the process:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rjgk67pDOVY&feature=youtu.be
Here is a link to a photo of a puller built a bit differently but using the
same ideas. Someone on this list owns the one in this photo:
https://i.imgur.com/554UaXC.jpg
Ken H.
On 29 January 2
I noticed at the end of the season that I was getting some vibration and a
little grumbling noise while underway with the engine.
Checked the shaft for play after the boat came out of the water and got
more play then I liked.. Compared it with other boats parked next to me and
confirmed that the ol
ides enough support for the 4 screws holding the ears of
> the duplex outlet and I can pretty well do it as I want.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Alex Giannelia
> C&C 35-II (1974) no 282
> a...@airsensing.com
>
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was
For those that have one, do you know what kind you have? Vetus makes a few
- https://www.google.com/search?q=vetus+vented+loop - and there are the
Forespar Marelon ones. I read some of the Vetus ones require running a vent
line overboard or to a cockpit drain, or they leak water into the boat.
Al
Honey has one as well.
Best regards,
Jack Fitzgerald
HONEY
C&C 39 TM - US12788
Savannah, GA 31410 USA
This email is protected by the Electronic Communications Privacy
Act, 18 U.S.C. Sec. 2510-2521, is confidential and may be legally
privileged. If you are not the intended recipient, you are here
Touche' has one.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Jan 29, 2018 11:29 AM, "Patrick Davin via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Does anyone have a vented loop on their engine cooling water hose (between
> the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow)? Do you think it's necessary
I have one. It has caused no problems and could prevent a siphon. They should
be checked every now and then for proper operation. They should not leak water
out and should allow air in.
Joe
Coquina
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
The mechanic put one on my new installation on Peregrine. He said he
thought that we were a little close to the water line, so better safe than
sorry. By the way, Cruising World at some point will be coming out with my
article on taking out the old and installing the new engine.
Andy
Formerly C&C
I have one from the PO. No regrets and no plans on removing it. I think
it is probably cheap insurance. I've come across precautionary tails of
the vent becoming plugged closed or degrading open. Just be aware.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Jan 29, 2018, 1:29 PM
Does anyone have a vented loop on their engine cooling water hose (between
the heat exchanger and the exhaust elbow)? Do you think it's necessary,
and any regrets / things you would change? If you have one, where is it
mounted? (particularly for LF38 layout, but any C&C over 32' would probably
be
Lee,
Thanks for all those good notes. I now understand it really isn't necessary if
the plywood provides enough support for the 4 screws holding the ears of the
duplex outlet and I can pretty well do it as I want.
Thanks again,
Alex Giannelia
C&C 35-II (1974) no 282
a...@airsensing.com
_
Hi Alan,
My 37 is a 1990. They did lift the tank out of the way to change those
hoses a couple of years ago. They don't recall having to break anything
loose, it just lifted out of the way once everything (hosed, brackets) was
removed.
Ken H.
On 29 January 2018 at 11:10, Ken Heaton wrote:
>
Alan,
My fuel tank was removed in 2011 to access the strut. I had my boatyard do
it and didn't think there were any issues. The tank was not removed from
the boat and may have only been lifted out of the way to get to the strut
fasteners. It could be hard to remove the hoses.
Could it be po
I think my tank was lifted a few years ago to run new ventilation hoses
underneath. I had a local boatwright do the job (replace the hoses).
I've just left me a message on his mobile to ask him call me and tell me
what he remembers. I'll post it here when he does.
Ken H.
On 29 January 2018 at
Sorry I can't help but I'm looking forward to updates on your project.
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Jan 29, 2018, 9:57 AM Alan Liles via CnC-List
wrote:
> I am trying to remove the fuel tank in a 1994 37/40. I have removed the
> aft berth to expose the tank top.
I am trying to remove the fuel tank in a 1994 37/40. I have removed the aft
berth to expose the tank top. I have removed the two hold down cleats (cut down
2x4 screwed to the tank well sides at the top). The tank still seems very
solid, but I can't see anything else holding it. Has anyone else d
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