Just a note - My experience is to tape the hole below deck and pour in a
small amount of thickened epoxy which does not drip past the tape to form a
new epoxy seal or bottom layer when cured and then wet the cored out area
and then fill with thickened epoxy.
John
Arpeggio C&C 32
Norwalk, CT
Thanks everybody. Great information as usual.
KD
Kevin Driscoll
Portland, Oregon
503 // 875 // 3493
On Fri, Aug 8, 2014 at 11:55 AM, Josh Muckley wrote:
> This past winter, I pulled my sanitation pump out fitting and found some
> significant rot. Dug it out and used Smiths clear penet
This past winter, I pulled my sanitation pump out fitting and found some
significant rot. Dug it out and used Smiths clear penetrating epoxy to
seal and fix the open wood grain. They recommend rewetting frequently over
the course of a few days to a week. After it was curred I used west system
to
>> The epoxy cartridges are nice and easy to use, but to do the job right one
>> should wet out the hole with un-thickened epoxy before filling with
>> thickened epoxy. Also, don't just fill an existing bolt hole. Over dill
>> the hole and ream back any coring. That said, I prefer to mix the
I re bedded the majority of my deck hardware with butyl tape 5 years ago and
I'm very pleased with the results. I drilled and filled as required and used
the thinnest butyl I could find. So far no problems other than a slight
tightening of the hardware over time. This is not a maintenance endin
Kevin,
I keep this in my maintenance file. I just copy and paste to emails. I
just overbored and filled my cockpit coaming for some new winches using the
method below.
Here's the soup to nuts way to best protect your boat if the penetration is
through cored deck. If it's not cored, just do the
Kevin,
The epoxy cartridges are nice and easy to use, but to do the job right one
should wet out the hole with un-thickened epoxy before filling with thickened
epoxy. Also, don't just fill an existing bolt hole. Over dill the hole and
ream back any coring.
That said, I prefer to mix the ep
I installed a pair of Noco Genius G3500 chargers this year.
The racing rules require spill proof batteries for new replacements,
currently I have one flooded and one AGM.
Advantages are:
IP65 water rating
light weight and easy to mount
useful status LEDs
automatic desulfation or deeply discharged
Joel,
+1 on the West Six/10 thickened epoxy, and the PBase info.
I changed 4 cowl vents last weekend. One of them had been leaking for years
apparently, so the core was wet. Very wet.
I was able to scoop out the softened wood with a finger and screwdriver,
dried it with everything from paper tow
Kevin,
I'd use West Six/10 epoxy cartridges. Easy to work with and no waste
except for what is left in the tip. Buy lots of tips if you are doing it
over several weeks. I don't know if GitRot is strong enough.
Joel
35/3
Annapolis
On Fri, Aug 8, 2014 at 11:41 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
Git-Rot is the exact opposite of a hole-filler. It is very low viscosity and is
designed to soak into wood and migrate.
Joe Della Barba
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin
Driscoll via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2014 11:42 AM
To: C&C List
Subjec
I basically follow the article on PBase to the
letter...http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebedding_hardware
-- Original Message --
From: Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List
To: "C&C List"
Subject: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling & Drilling w_Epoxy
Date: Fri, 8 Aug 2014 08:41:55 -0700
Happy weekend all,
I am going to start re-bedding some hardware on our boat. I’m going with
butyl tape, but wanted to see what folks were using for “filling and
drilling” holes in the deck/core with epoxy, etc. Is *Git Rot* appropriate
for this job? I am looking for something easy to work with f
On Friday, August 8, 2014 8:25:02 AM, Rick Brass
wrote:
My rub rail was damaged in a collision some years ago. It is an integral part
of the hull to deck seal, and riveted to the flange of the hull. So removing or
replacing it involved lifting the entire deck off the hull by about 6" to
My rub rail was damaged in a collision some years ago. It is an integral part
of the hull to deck seal, and riveted to the flange of the hull. So removing or
replacing it involved lifting the entire deck off the hull by about 6" to get
space to remove the rivets. Plus all the wiring connections
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ProMariner-ProTech-12vt-20-Amp-3-BANK-Boat-Marine-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-/151186903725?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item23337112ad
This model would be more than enough.
I also have a 20 watt solar panel with a Morningstar PWN controller that do
well when
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