Here is the bottom of my 1980 C&C30MK1 HIN # 675
http://s148.photobucket.com/user/LTGoshen/media/March%202012%20Haul%20Out/EastCoastLady3-9-12001_zps6e2a9d0f.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0
On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 8:57 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Interesting that you m
Interesting that you mention the ~ 1976 redesign of the rudder. I have looked
at various rudders from I think a 1972, 1976 and 1980, as well as pictures of
the rudders on C&C 30 for sale. They have looked basically the same, the
swept back scimitar shape.
What does the high aspect ratio rudder loo
Ron
I purchased a C&C 30 MK in 1972 ( 1973 model, hull # 100) . Raced her until
1986 when I bought a C&C 41 CB
We won a lot of races on the Chesapeake with her, She is essentially a CCA
design and we sailed with a 170% genoa
She is a very stiff boat with the 170 and even stiffer with the 155% ge
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 mk1 rudder design
My boat is a big version of the old C&C 30. I have noticed no issues in reverse
with my rudder. I rarely use my tiller, so I can’t really tell y
Hi Ron,
I have a C&C 30 1973 (hull built in 1972) with that exact rudder.
Yes, there are some weather helm, especially on a reach with a tiller.
When I purchased the boat in 2000, I noted that an earlier owner bolted a piece
of wood in front of the rudder to increase the compensation by adding sur
Tooth paste works.
-Original Message-
From: "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List"
Sent: 2014-06-11 12:41 PM
To: "colt...@verizon.net" ; "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
; "bstrat...@falconnect.com"
Subject: Re: Stus-List Windows
My windows don't leak but they are significantly 'crazed' (?) so that t
My boat is a big version of the old C&C 30. I have noticed no issues in reverse
with my rudder. I rarely use my tiller, so I can't really tell you about that.
I used to use the tiller in the rain so I could sit under the dodger, but then
I got an autopilot. Like any boat, if the helm is a wrestl
Welcome to the list, Burt, and congratulations on your new boat. There's
information about window replacement on the web site cncphotoalbum.com, under
the heading "Do it yourself." You can make your own. I used 9mm, #126 bronze
cast acrylic. (Plexiglass is a brand name.) Cast is stronger than ex
Skip,
Welcome to C&C ownership and the list.
I recently had Hammerhead Marine refirb Calypso's deck hatches. The two
original Atkins and Hoyle hatches plus one A&H 36"x36" foredeck hatch (added in
the early 80's) came back looking almost new. If you are thinking DIY, the cnc
list archives ha
This is the first time I've heard that the earlier 30-1's had a different
rudder design - I have a 1980 version and the keel and rudder are shark fins.
The scimitar does give you some weather helm when reaching in heavy air, but by
then your rail is in the water and you should be reducing sail a
Good morning,
This is my first entry on the cnc-list. I have 40 yrs. of sailing experiece;
mostly on Petersons.
I am presently without a boat and have been looking at older C&C 30 mk1's
(1973-75).
There are several for sale in my area; asking price about $16,000.
They seem to be well built and in
My windows don't leak but they are significantly 'crazed' (?) so that they
admit light but it is very diffused--something like the light you might get
thru a shower door.
Is there a solution to cleaning them up, short of replacement, with some kind
of chemical or rubbing compound?
Charlie Nels
The primary reason is to have a 'fail safe' point on the keel stepped mast in
case the loss of standing rigging. If the mast was going over it would not
open up the cabin as badly. I agree the ventilation is a great bonus.
Leslie
On Wed, 6/11/14, R
http://www.selectplastics.com/
Or McMaster Carr, use Cast Acrylic.
Or Tempered Glass!
Bill Coleman
C&C 39
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Burt
Stratton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2014 10:47 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-Li
Hi
All the hatches and windows in my 1974 33 foot ¾ tonner are in need of
replacement. All are smoked plexiglass. It looks like they would be easy to
fabricate using the old ones as a template. Is that a reasonable assumption
or would it be smarter to just try to find the parts and order them?
I know there has been some talk here about the new nano-technology
concerning the water repellent which comes in a spray can, which apparently
doesn't last too long.
Looks like eventually this may actually come into the mainstream.
This would be a really slippery hull with this paint if it could
Agree on the effect of “warmth” in the main cabin. We had excess Ultra-suede
from our new cushions project and the upholsterer took a length of it, added
thin foam backing and velcro to close it around the mast. I mention the foam
because a previous poster mentioned damping the sound of halyards
Nate,
Sorry, I meant warmth as in aesthetics...but I guess you could be right about
temperature-warmth too.
David F. Risch
(401) 419-4650 (cell)
From: nateflesn...@gmail.com
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2014 07:36:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Holes...now mast wrap
To: davidrisc...@msn.com; cnc-
The mast holes were made by C&C at the factory to aid in ventilation.
There are about a dozen 1/4" holes on our mast, port side just below the
mast collar..most times, you can feel the air being sucked into the
holes and up the mast. I would see no logical reason to cover these
holes unde
mast wrap warms up the cabin because it lowers heat loss? Interesting.
Been thinking about adding one for halyard sound-muffling and aesthetics,
but hadn't thought about warmth.
Warmth matters on Lake Superior...
Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1
Siskiwit Bay Marina
Cornucopia, WI
On Tue, Jun 10, 2014
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