I used 3/16 on my 1-1/8 shaft. Buck Algonquin stuffing box.
Wal
primeinterest wrote:
Any thoughts on what the typical packing size is for a 1 1/8" shaft?
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John,
I would pose your question directly to the vendor. If Interlux replies
ambiguously, post its reply for further analysis.
Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL
On Sun, Apr 20, 2014 at 2:31 PM, John Pennie wrote:
> Interlux markets the product as the safest for aluminum but nowhere do
> they put the magic
John,
That sounds safe. I checked the Interlux Paint Guide and you are on track.
Outdrives are aluminum, and my boatyard is 80% powerboats, so I'll ask one of
the more knowledgeble skippers what they use on their outdrives. I know a few
who really take good care of their boats.
Chuck
-
Thanks Chuck. Did a quick search and found the following in their literature.
They were the wordsI was looking for.
<>
I suspect echo is just Pettit’s version of Pacifica as they list the same
active ingredients. As Interlux is nice enough to sell this in pints I think
I’ll just go
FWIW, I did a quick search and found an email from Joe from Interux recommend
to another saildrive owner, to use Pacifica Plus, a copper free bottom paint,
". . . that has been out performing most copper based antifouling paints using
a biocide called Econea."
Don't think I'd mix Pettit bottom
I've been using trilux with the primer on my max prop and shaft for about 10
years now. There doesn't seem to be a problem with corrosion that I can see.
The problem I have with this product is that around the middle of August it
starts to fall off and I have to dive more frequently to keep the
Erik
FWIW on my 35-3 there is a standard round white inspection plate located on
the side of the reefer which would allow access- It is between stove and
reefer. When stove is there you can't even see it but gimbal the stove out
of the way and voila. Probably not factory but installing one would
I had picked up a can of the Trilux 33 aerosol to give some protection to my
prop and sail drive this season. Both have been lightly sanded, washed and
then primed with a couple of coats of Primocon (also aerosol). Now I’m having
second thoughts. Interlux markets the product as the safest for
If the boat has the Atomic 4 engine with raw water cooling, I would not
bother with a water heater. We had one and threw it out ages ago. A raw
water cooled engine will not run hot enough to get decent hot water and if
you get a hotter thermostat salt and minerals precipitate out and clog the
cooli
Our 29-2 came with the plastic pump under the sink, same as the 35. On both
boats I replaced the pump with the small bronze PAR "Little Pal" pump, much
more reliable. I kept the installation as built because I don't want
anything from the icebox in the bilge. On BOTH boats we had a freezer pak
leak
I plugged my drain hole on purpose, I don't want all that good cold water
to go away. Also, the under sink mounted pump looked dubious and I think
the hose even separated from the drain hole at the bottom of the cooler.
Put your ice bags into containers. No more water at the bottom of the
cooler.
Erik,
I have a 6" inspection port installed in the bulkhead under the stove. I
have easy access to the drain fitting and hose. It came with the boat. My
drain used to go to a small pump under the sink, but I opted for letting it
drain into the bilge via gravity. Since installing refrigerati
Mine also has a hose that comes out under the sink, it goes to a small
pump and when I need to drain the cooler I put the end of the hose from
the pump into the sink, and pump it out.
Anyway, presumably you have found the second end of the hose, is it
under the sink?
One thing you could try
Happy Easter to All,
Bill is correctFinesse does smoke more that it should upon all starts...but
happy to report that after 5 minutes or so of running the smoke is hardly
noticable. Not sure what the PO did, but a local diesel shop suggested a fuel
additive which I always useso maybe t
Ed,
This won't be much help to you but here is my experience.I replaced
the packing in the stuffing box.prop shaft is 1".I can't tell
you the size of the packing until I go to the boat to confirm but I
think it was 3/16".
I got three (3) new strands of the new packing in the stuf
Sorry Erik no advice on how to resolve the blockage, but once you do... I
have a small pump under the sink that takes the drain up and into the sink
drain just under the sink, so the bilge stays dry and you can choose
whether to drain that nice cold water out or not. I used to have this
plumbed to
Erik,
Is it possible that a previous owner installed a hidden shut-off valve
somewhere?
Barring that, you could try using a compressor and an air-gun to blow air
into the hose end that drains into the bilge.
If there is anything solid blocking the drain line it probably came in from
the icebo
Thanks for all the suggestions. The opening behind the fuel tank was visible
from the rear compartment behind the water heater. I just did not realize what
I was looking at until I stuck something through the hole. I used a tape
measure to fish the messenger under the fuel tank and through th
Jim, I haven't yet connected the VHF, but suspect it could be done two ways.
Use the monster cable for 0183 or come off the NGW-1 gateway.
From: firewa...@reinardy.us
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2014 09:20:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List B&G interfacing
Tony, Did you have to co
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