On 7/2/2017 3:02 PM, Pete Lancashire via cctalk wrote:
For me new tools pretty much come for European companies, from estate
sales,
An old fellow pulled into an astronomy related material swap meet next
to me several years ago, opened his trunk while I was standing there and
pulled out one of
Sears long ago stopped making tools. They finally got out of the holding
business with the products and sold them to Stanley Black & Decker.
While under Sears, they would lease the brand-name to pretty much the
highest bidder, if that bidder was also a company that made Harbor
Freight Sears could c
> On Sun, 2 Jul 2017, Chuck Guzis via cctalk wrote:
>> About the best advice I've heard in this respect was "if you're looking
>> to assemble a good assortment of hand tools, make an offer for the
>> contents of the toolchest to the widow of a recently deceased mechanic."
service cases and too
On 7/2/17 2:15 PM, Chuck Guzis via cctalk wrote:
> Some brands have suffered badly under the shadow of acquisition. Klein
> used to be the best source for small pliers and cutters, but my
> experience with them lately has not demonstrated that.
Xcelite was never the greatest stuff in the worl
On Sun, 2 Jul 2017, Chuck Guzis via cctalk wrote:
About the best advice I've heard in this respect was "if you're looking
to assemble a good assortment of hand tools, make an offer for the
contents of the toolchest to the widow of a recently deceased mechanic."
Thanks
I'm updating my will (ER
On 07/02/2017 01:33 PM, Fred Cisin via cctalk wrote:
> But Sears got SO bad for a while that in my Honda book I said, "better
> to have a few good tools . . . than a lifetime supply of scrap metal
> tools, ready and waiting to hurt you." (p 236)
I recently had the retainer ball (that holds socke
The quality of tools has declined. It used to be that Sears Roebuck
"Craftsman" hand tools were among the best and were sold with an
unconditional warranty. Not so any more.
On Sun, 2 Jul 2017, Guy Sotomayor Jr via cctalk wrote:
Snap-on brand tools are the best that I’ve come across though th
>
> It was on a test-bench setup. Part of my job back then was calibrating
> the stroke of cylinders to the 3-15 psi control signal. Plant air
> (power supply for the cylinder) was around 50 psi, IIRC.
Lucky it was just the pliers. Pneumatics can be rather dangerous at that
pressure.
>
> Ju
Good advice on buying the whole toolchest.
Wiha does make excellent drivers and insert bits. Their security bits are
top-notch as well -- I ended up buying their general security
"bits-selector" set after wasting $5 on one of those Harbor Freight
assortments.
Thanks,
Jonathan
On Sun, Jul 2, 2017
On 07/02/2017 07:36 AM, Chris Elmquist via cctalk wrote:
> I'm a little late to this thread but I didn't see anyone mention the Wiha
> brand which also have a slim Nut Driver set with a 7/32" bit in the kit.
> When I was refurbing a couple model M here, I invested in this Wiha set,
I've got a few
On 07/02/2017 09:45 AM, Chris Pye wrote:
> Chuck, dare may I ask what you were doing with electricians pliers that close
> to a pneumatic cylinder?
It was on a test-bench setup. Part of my job back then was calibrating
the stroke of cylinders to the 3-15 psi control signal. Plant air
(power s
> On 2 Jul 2017, at 4:03 pm, Chuck Guzis via cctalk
> wrote:
>
> I once got a pair of electrician's pliers caught between the yoke and
> body of a 6" pneumatic cylinder. Snapped the handles right off, it did.
> The local Sears store replaced the pliers without
> questioning--although they did
> On Jul 1, 2017, at 11:12 PM, Tony Duell via cctalk
> wrote:
>
>
>>
>> The quality of tools has declined. It used to be that Sears Roebuck
>> "Craftsman" hand tools were among the best and were sold with an
>> unconditional warranty. Not so any more.
>
> The best spanners I have come acro
I personally use an Xcelite driver as well. Someone on one of the
forums/lists I'm on had a link to a seller with hundreds of them for a few
dollars apiece, but it appears that seller is out of 7/32". It was
suggested that a Craftsman 1/4 drive deep well socket would work, but the
7/32" I had was t
On Sunday (07/02/2017 at 10:22AM -0400), Paul Koning via cctalk wrote:
>
> > On Jul 2, 2017, at 2:03 AM, Chuck Guzis via cctalk
> > wrote:
> >
> > On 07/01/2017 10:27 PM, Tony Duell via cctalk wrote:
> >
> >> I was told years ago that in general the thinner-wall sockets are better
> >> quality
> On Jul 2, 2017, at 2:03 AM, Chuck Guzis via cctalk
> wrote:
>
> On 07/01/2017 10:27 PM, Tony Duell via cctalk wrote:
>
>> I was told years ago that in general the thinner-wall sockets are better
>> quality -- they have to be made from stronger steel alloy to work at
>> all. Obviously there a
On 07/02/2017 01:03 AM, Chuck Guzis via cctalk wrote:
On 07/01/2017 10:27 PM, Tony Duell via cctalk wrote:
I was told years ago that in general the thinner-wall sockets are better
quality -- they have to be made from stronger steel alloy to work at
all. Obviously there are exceptions
It w
On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 7:03 AM, Chuck Guzis via cctalk
wrote:
> On 07/01/2017 10:27 PM, Tony Duell via cctalk wrote:
>
>> I was told years ago that in general the thinner-wall sockets are better
>> quality -- they have to be made from stronger steel alloy to work at
>> all. Obviously there are exc
On 07/01/2017 10:27 PM, Tony Duell via cctalk wrote:
> I was told years ago that in general the thinner-wall sockets are better
> quality -- they have to be made from stronger steel alloy to work at
> all. Obviously there are exceptions
It wouldn't surprise me if some of the cheaper stuff was
On Sun, Jul 2, 2017 at 12:09 AM, Jules Richardson via cctalk
wrote:
> Anyway, I picked up a cheap 7/32" deep socket from Menards ($3 or so) - and
> as it happens, it Just Works without modification. It's not marketed as
> thin-walled; I expect they just made it cheap by leaving out a bunch of
> m
On 07/01/2017 03:59 PM, Chuck Guzis via cctalk wrote:
On 07/01/2017 01:23 PM, Jules Richardson via cctalk wrote:
It does look like I can get a 7/32" socket for a couple of bucks, though
- so maybe I'll go that route for now and just shave it down a little
with the bench grinder. It can live on
On 07/01/2017 01:23 PM, Jules Richardson via cctalk wrote:
> It does look like I can get a 7/32" socket for a couple of bucks, though
> - so maybe I'll go that route for now and just shave it down a little
> with the bench grinder. It can live on the shelf with the homebrew Mac
> case dismantling
On 07/01/2017 02:12 PM, Adam Sampson via cctalk wrote:
Jules Richardson via cctalk writes:
Google suggests that they might be 7/32", but I'm not sure; that's
less of a common size (vs. 3/16" or 1/4", say) - I'm not even sure I
could find a driver like that around here.
Yes, they're 7/32", bu
On Sat, Jul 1, 2017 at 8:12 PM, Adam Sampson via cctalk
wrote:
> Jules Richardson via cctalk writes:
>
>> Google suggests that they might be 7/32", but I'm not sure; that's
>> less of a common size (vs. 3/16" or 1/4", say) - I'm not even sure I
>> could find a driver like that around here.
>
> Ye
Jules Richardson via cctalk writes:
> Google suggests that they might be 7/32", but I'm not sure; that's
> less of a common size (vs. 3/16" or 1/4", say) - I'm not even sure I
> could find a driver like that around here.
Yes, they're 7/32", but in a narrow hole that means some bits won't
reach.
On 07/01/2017 09:28 AM, Jules Richardson via cctalk wrote:
> Google suggests that they might be 7/32", but I'm not sure; that's less
> of a common size (vs. 3/16" or 1/4", say) - I'm not even sure I could
> find a driver like that around here.
That's exactly what I use--get a decent one; some of
Can anyone tell me the size of the Model M keyboard case screws? The one I
use on my main 'modern' PC could use a good clean, but the case recesses
are a little too narrow for a typical socket to fit - I either need a nut
driver, or to shave a little material off the outside of a socket to nar
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