Re: [RE-wrenches] Lead acid batteries taking too much current

[Steve Higgins via RE-wrenches]

Sol Ark is adding an end amps (return amps) timer so you can control when
the inverter transitions from absorb to float. The problem now is that it
is limited to 2% of the programmed or calculated battery capacity for 10
minutes. Once the new firmware is released, it'll be 2% for up to 4 hours.
 This does not mean you shouldn't still use the EQ cycles (Programmed to
Absorb Voltages and Times) to ensure a full 100% charge.   Using only end
amps to charge a lead battery of any type is generally a bad idea.   End
Amp or Return Amp settings were designed to ensure that a fully charged
battery didn't get overcharged.

Another issue is the battery's internal resistance, which can cause issues
with FLA, AGM, or GEL batteries.   If the internal resistance is higher
than expected, the inverter will slightly increase the battery voltage to
increase the current flow.   If you are dealing with an already hot
battery, this may cause the batteries to overvolt and swell up, especially
if they are already hot while undercharge.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Steve Higgins ⋅ Technical Services Manager
t +1.902.597.4020  m +1.206.790.5840
f +1.902.597.8447  e st...@surrette.com










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On Fri, Oct 4, 2024 at 8:11 AM Dave Tedeyan via RE-wrenches <
re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

> Steve, thanks for the call. I am using voltages, rather than SOC to
> start/stop the generator. I also just reduced the battery resistance to 0
> based on your recommendation.
>
> Jay,
> There is a temp sensor. The batteries only got to about 32deg C after 14
> hours of charging.
> I got the 7 hours of absorb time based on the equation capacity*.42/charge
> current. 890AH*.42/50A = ~7.5 hours (I used 50A rather than 75A, since I
> figured it would be unlikely that the solar would often be able to sustain
> 75A for very long)
> The 5% is not adjustable. I think the adjustment is in the battery
> capacity. Steve just corrected me on this though, as he mentioned it is
> actually 2%.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave
>
> On Fri, Oct 4, 2024 at 11:01 AM Jay  wrote:
>
>> Hi Dave
>>
>> I bet there is no way to install a temp sensor?
>>
>> Question about the 7 hrs absorb time. Where did you come up with that
>> figure.
>>
>> Is the 5% adjustable or the adjustment is in the battery capacity?
>>
>> Thx
>> Jay
>>
>>
>>
>> On Oct 4, 2024, at 8:30 AM, Dave Tedeyan via RE-wrenches <
>> re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I have inherited and done some work on an off-grid system with a Sol-Ark
>> 8k inverter and now has a new set of 16 Rolls S6 L16-HC batteries (only
>> about a month old). There is only 3.9kw of solar, and there is a 12kw
>> generator.
>>
>> First of all, thanks to Steve for putting out that webinar a little while
>> ago on how to program a Sol-Ark with lead acid batteries! I followed that
>> for the programming of this inverter.
>>
>> Recently, the generator kicked on when it should. But it never turned
>> itself off. I had to go into the battery settings and turn off grid and gen
>> charging to get the generator to turn off. From looking at the monitoring,
>> even once the batteries were full, they were still accepting over 40A of
>> current. A few hours later, the batteries were accepting almost 50A of
>> current.
>>
>> The battery bank has a capacity of 890AH, but based on the FLA
>> recommendations I set the capacity to 70% of that, or 650AH so that it
>> absorbs longer. Based on the Sol-Ark programming, it will run the generator
>> until the batteries are accepting 5% of that, 

Re: [RE-wrenches] Racking on residential rooftops

[Jay via RE-wrenches]

The laser I used isn’t made.  And I know it’s a tech that’s changing fast. Get a laser visible for outdoors. Some are green some red. And the self leveling ones will give you a level straight line. It’s super helpful for keeping the rails straight on 2 planes. Jim asked about valleys. And I’ve tripped on too many lines on a roof. Doing multiple rails ( roof) with the laser it’s easier/faster for me to keep them straight than string line. Not trying to say other techniques don’t work. It’s just another one that does work. JayOn Oct 4, 2024, at 12:43 AM, William Miller  wrote:Jay: Is there a make and model of laser you recommend?  I bought a pretty expensive one and it was useless in daylight.   The goal is to make the rails parallel, not necessarily straight or level.  I’m not sure a laser level is the right tool for this goal.   Running a laser line at other than level or plumb was not that easy when I tried it and that seems necessary, so I am looking for hints on your process.   William Miller Solar17395 Oak Road, Atascadero, CA 93422805-438-5600www.millersolar.comCA Lic. 773985  From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Jay via RE-wrenchesSent: Thursday, October 3, 2024 8:39 PMTo: RE-wrenchesCc: JaySubject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Racking on residential rooftops Hi Jim I recommend a laser level. Can be just a line laser or can be a multi line level. Brightness is key.  Much easier, faster and accurate than using string. Also makes it much easier to keep everything straight  Jay  On Oct 3, 2024, at 7:44 PM, William Miller via RE-wrenches  wrote:Good question, Jim. We should all want our installations to work good and look good.   A lot of this consideration is purely aesthetic.  As such, it doesn’t always have to be good, it just has to look good. What I mean by that is if there are some misalignments that can’t be seen from any vantage point, then it is not so critical to spend a lot of time making those perfect.  I always look to see what vantage points there are from which a given installation can be seen and focus on making the installation look good to those vantage points. Misaligned panels are only obvious where panel corners and edges meet. Your rack may undulate but as long as the panels meet up evenly that waviness is not readily visible.  I don’t spend too much time checking a roof for flat—none of them are. Two adjacent panels bolted to the same pair of rails almost always line up.  The bigger problem occurs when you have two or more sets of rails.  If the vantage point is from below and the upper set of rails is even slightly higher than the lower set of rails, that protruding upper panel edge can easily be seen.  If, however, the upper set of rails is slightly lower, it is less obvious. The key is to run a string line along the view axis to check to see of the pairs of rails are in alignment.  Make the string as tight as possible.  I space my string off the rail by a set amount—usually the thickness of a strut washer—and take another strut washer and slip it under the string at various locations.  The reason to space the string above is to prevent the rail from subtly deflecting the string without you noticing it happening.  You can also use a spare stick of rail or any long straight edge. Lining up rows of panels is most critical if the installation can be viewed from the side.  If the alignment gets bad at first without correcting it the error can quickly compound.  The longer the row the worse it can get. We set the first panel carefully and then take a length of rail and bolt it across the other end to hold a string line.  Pick a reference point, usually the eave edge of the roofing—or any other straight line the eye might automatically compare the row of panels to—and use that as a guide to set your string.  If the roofing courses waver you will have a harder time making it look right.  Again, space the string off of the panel edge at both ends by a slight amount that is the same as an object you have handy for gauging.  I use a strut washer or the thickness of a carpenter’s pencil. If your row starts to deviate you can “steer” the panels gradually back into alignment.  You can do this by leaving a gap between panels slightly bigger at the top or bottom to subtly correct for misalignment.  The amount of extra space can’t be too much or the mid-clip won’t hold properly.  You have about 1/8” to work with at any given gap.  You can also subtly “stair-step” the panels up or down—in other words set a panel slightly higher or lower than the previous panel to get back on track. If you see an upper row is higher at one point than the lower row you can stop stacking and adjust your rail up or down on the slotted feet. We set the lower row first and then use disassembled mid-clips to make the spacing up and down pitch the same as across pitch. One other thing:  If you are using wider racking like Pro-solar or Snap-n-rack: Mak

Re: [RE-wrenches] Lead acid batteries taking too much current

[Jay via RE-wrenches]

Hi DaveI bet there is no way to install a temp sensor?Question about the 7 hrs absorb time. Where did you come up with that figure. Is the 5% adjustable or the adjustment is in the battery capacity?ThxJayOn Oct 4, 2024, at 8:30 AM, Dave Tedeyan via RE-wrenches  wrote:Hi All, I have inherited and done some work on an off-grid system with a Sol-Ark 8k inverter and now has a new set of 16 Rolls S6 L16-HC batteries (only about a month old). There is only 3.9kw of solar, and there is a 12kw generator. First of all, thanks to Steve for putting out that webinar a little while ago on how to program a Sol-Ark with lead acid batteries! I followed that for the programming of this inverter.Recently, the generator kicked on when it should. But it never turned itself off. I had to go into the battery settings and turn off grid and gen charging to get the generator to turn off. From looking at the monitoring, even once the batteries were full, they were still accepting over 40A of current. A few hours later, the batteries were accepting almost 50A of current. The battery bank has a capacity of 890AH, but based on the FLA recommendations I set the capacity to 70% of that, or 650AH so that it absorbs longer. Based on the Sol-Ark programming, it will run the generator until the batteries are accepting 5% of that, or 32.5A. It seems that since the system never got down to that little amount of current, it never turned off the generator and never stopped charging. I had the customer check the water level and they said it was low, but not below the level of the plates. Does anyone know why the batteries might have been accepting so much current even when fully charged? And in order to get the final amps that the inverter is looking for to turn off the generator, I would need to set the capacity up to about 780AH or about 90% of the rated capacity. Is upping the capacity the recommended action to prevent this from happening in the future? I also have a follow up question. Being that there is not a ton of solar here, the recommendation for a full absorb every few days ends up being about 7 hours of absorb time. I am wondering if there is a way to force the inverter to do an EQ cycle (although we are really just using the EQ function on the inverter to get a full absorb cycle every few days) when we know it will be a sunny day? I would also like to be able to start an EQ cycle and also start the generator to give a good top off. It seems that you can choose the EQ frequency, but you don't know exactly when it will try to EQ.Thanks in advance!Cheers,Dave-- Dave Tedeyan, P.E.Owner | Sungineer Solarp: he | him | hisa: 1653 Slaterville Rd. | Ithaca, NY 14850w: www.sungineersolar.comc: (607) 270-0370
___List sponsored by Redwood AlliancePay optional member dues here: http://re-wrenches.orgList Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.orgChange listserver email address & settings:http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.orgThere are two list archives for searching. When one doesn't work, try the other:https://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.orgList rules & etiquette:http://www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htmCheck out or update participant bios:http://www.members.re-wrenches.org___
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Lead acid batteries taking too much current

[Steve Higgins via RE-wrenches]

Dave,

I need to give you a call... I need to make a new video with some changes.

As for the generator starting but not stopping it's a mix between the
battery resistance and the SOC percentages... are you using voltages to
start/stop or SOC%

I'll give you a call in a few mins to discuss further.

On Fri, Oct 4, 2024, 7:30 AM Dave Tedeyan via RE-wrenches <
re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> I have inherited and done some work on an off-grid system with a Sol-Ark
> 8k inverter and now has a new set of 16 Rolls S6 L16-HC batteries (only
> about a month old). There is only 3.9kw of solar, and there is a 12kw
> generator.
>
> First of all, thanks to Steve for putting out that webinar a little while
> ago on how to program a Sol-Ark with lead acid batteries! I followed that
> for the programming of this inverter.
>
> Recently, the generator kicked on when it should. But it never turned
> itself off. I had to go into the battery settings and turn off grid and gen
> charging to get the generator to turn off. From looking at the monitoring,
> even once the batteries were full, they were still accepting over 40A of
> current. A few hours later, the batteries were accepting almost 50A of
> current.
>
> The battery bank has a capacity of 890AH, but based on the FLA
> recommendations I set the capacity to 70% of that, or 650AH so that it
> absorbs longer. Based on the Sol-Ark programming, it will run the generator
> until the batteries are accepting 5% of that, or 32.5A. It seems that since
> the system never got down to that little amount of current, it never turned
> off the generator and never stopped charging. I had the customer check the
> water level and they said it was low, but not below the level of the
> plates.
>
> Does anyone know why the batteries might have been accepting so much
> current even when fully charged? And in order to get the final amps that
> the inverter is looking for to turn off the generator, I would need to set
> the capacity up to about 780AH or about 90% of the rated capacity. Is
> upping the capacity the recommended action to prevent this from happening
> in the future?
>
> I also have a follow up question. Being that there is not a ton of solar
> here, the recommendation for a full absorb every few days ends up being
> about 7 hours of absorb time. I am wondering if there is a way to force the
> inverter to do an EQ cycle (although we are really just using the EQ
> function on the inverter to get a full absorb cycle every few days) when we
> know it will be a sunny day? I would also like to be able to start an EQ
> cycle and also start the generator to give a good top off. It seems that
> you can choose the EQ frequency, but you don't know exactly when it will
> try to EQ.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Cheers,
> Dave
> --
>
> [image: Logo] 
> Dave Tedeyan, P.E.
> Owner | Sungineer Solar
> p: he | him | his
> a: 1653 Slaterville Rd.
> 
>
> |
>  Ithaca,
> NY 14850
> 
> w: www.sungineersolar.com 
> c: (607) 270-0370
> ___
> List sponsored by Redwood Alliance
>
> Pay optional member dues here: http://re-wrenches.org
>
> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
>
> Change listserver email address & settings:
> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
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> other:
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> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Lead acid batteries taking too much current

[Dave Tedeyan via RE-wrenches]

Steve, thanks for the call. I am using voltages, rather than SOC to
start/stop the generator. I also just reduced the battery resistance to 0
based on your recommendation.

Jay,
There is a temp sensor. The batteries only got to about 32deg C after 14
hours of charging.
I got the 7 hours of absorb time based on the equation capacity*.42/charge
current. 890AH*.42/50A = ~7.5 hours (I used 50A rather than 75A, since I
figured it would be unlikely that the solar would often be able to sustain
75A for very long)
The 5% is not adjustable. I think the adjustment is in the battery
capacity. Steve just corrected me on this though, as he mentioned it is
actually 2%.

Cheers,
Dave

On Fri, Oct 4, 2024 at 11:01 AM Jay  wrote:

> Hi Dave
>
> I bet there is no way to install a temp sensor?
>
> Question about the 7 hrs absorb time. Where did you come up with that
> figure.
>
> Is the 5% adjustable or the adjustment is in the battery capacity?
>
> Thx
> Jay
>
>
>
> On Oct 4, 2024, at 8:30 AM, Dave Tedeyan via RE-wrenches <
> re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:
>
> 
> Hi All,
>
> I have inherited and done some work on an off-grid system with a Sol-Ark
> 8k inverter and now has a new set of 16 Rolls S6 L16-HC batteries (only
> about a month old). There is only 3.9kw of solar, and there is a 12kw
> generator.
>
> First of all, thanks to Steve for putting out that webinar a little while
> ago on how to program a Sol-Ark with lead acid batteries! I followed that
> for the programming of this inverter.
>
> Recently, the generator kicked on when it should. But it never turned
> itself off. I had to go into the battery settings and turn off grid and gen
> charging to get the generator to turn off. From looking at the monitoring,
> even once the batteries were full, they were still accepting over 40A of
> current. A few hours later, the batteries were accepting almost 50A of
> current.
>
> The battery bank has a capacity of 890AH, but based on the FLA
> recommendations I set the capacity to 70% of that, or 650AH so that it
> absorbs longer. Based on the Sol-Ark programming, it will run the generator
> until the batteries are accepting 5% of that, or 32.5A. It seems that since
> the system never got down to that little amount of current, it never turned
> off the generator and never stopped charging. I had the customer check the
> water level and they said it was low, but not below the level of the
> plates.
>
> Does anyone know why the batteries might have been accepting so much
> current even when fully charged? And in order to get the final amps that
> the inverter is looking for to turn off the generator, I would need to set
> the capacity up to about 780AH or about 90% of the rated capacity. Is
> upping the capacity the recommended action to prevent this from happening
> in the future?
>
> I also have a follow up question. Being that there is not a ton of solar
> here, the recommendation for a full absorb every few days ends up being
> about 7 hours of absorb time. I am wondering if there is a way to force the
> inverter to do an EQ cycle (although we are really just using the EQ
> function on the inverter to get a full absorb cycle every few days) when we
> know it will be a sunny day? I would also like to be able to start an EQ
> cycle and also start the generator to give a good top off. It seems that
> you can choose the EQ frequency, but you don't know exactly when it will
> try to EQ.
>
> Thanks in advance!
> Cheers,
> Dave
> --
>
> [image: Logo] 
> Dave Tedeyan, P.E.
> Owner | Sungineer Solar
> p: he | him | his
> a: 1653 Slaterville Rd. | Ithaca, NY 14850
> w: www.sungineersolar.com 
> c: (607) 270-0370
> ___
> List sponsored by Redwood Alliance
>
> Pay optional member dues here: http://re-wrenches.org
>
> List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
>
> Change listserver email address & settings:
> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
> There are two list archives for searching. When one doesn't work, try the
> other:
> https://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/
> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
> List rules & etiquette:
> http://www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm
>
> Check out or update participant bios:
> http://www.members.re-wrenches.org
>
>
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Re: [RE-wrenches] Lead acid batteries taking too much current

[Eric Smiley via RE-wrenches]

Our company does not pair any lead acid with a Sol-Ark. Our opinion is that
the unit is designed for Li-Ion and that is what should be used. In much
the same way that some legacy off-grid products don't play nicely with
Li-Ion, we stick with combinations that don't require specialized
programming work-arounds that aren't in the manufacturer's manual.

Interesting aside, I recently had to service a very old Trace DR system
which the client had upgraded to Can-Bat Li-Ion. The service call had to do
with the generator but I checked the batteries and charging history. It
looks like the DR is so dumb it, it works just fine with the BMS keeping an
eye on things.

Eric Smiley (he/him) - Design Manager

 250.703.6004
 e...@vecoop.ca
 888.386.0116
 3-4997 Polkey Rd, Duncan BC, V9L 6W3
 viridiansolar.ca




Viridian Solar honours the ancestral grounds on which we live and provide
services, recognising that these lands are unceded Indigenous territory. We
are steadfast in our commitment to reconciliation and acknowledge the rich
history and traditions that characterise this land that we all consider
home.



On Fri, 4 Oct 2024 at 08:22, Steve Higgins via RE-wrenches <
re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

> Sol Ark is adding an end amps (return amps) timer so you can control when
> the inverter transitions from absorb to float. The problem now is that it
> is limited to 2% of the programmed or calculated battery capacity for 10
> minutes. Once the new firmware is released, it'll be 2% for up to 4 hours.
>  This does not mean you shouldn't still use the EQ cycles (Programmed to
> Absorb Voltages and Times) to ensure a full 100% charge.   Using only end
> amps to charge a lead battery of any type is generally a bad idea.   End
> Amp or Return Amp settings were designed to ensure that a fully charged
> battery didn't get overcharged.
>
> Another issue is the battery's internal resistance, which can cause issues
> with FLA, AGM, or GEL batteries.   If the internal resistance is higher
> than expected, the inverter will slightly increase the battery voltage to
> increase the current flow.   If you are dealing with an already hot
> battery, this may cause the batteries to overvolt and swell up, especially
> if they are already hot while undercharge.
>
>
>
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> Steve Higgins ⋅ Technical Services Manager
> t +1.902.597.4020  m +1.206.790.5840
> f +1.902.597.8447  e st...@surrette.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> CONFIDENTIALITY: The information transmitted herein is intended only for
> the addressee and may contain confidential, proprietary and/or privileged
> material. Any unauthorized review, distribution or other use of or the
> taking of any action in reliance upon this information is prohibited. If
> you receive this email in error, please contact the sender and delete or
> destroy this message and all copies.
> --
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 4, 2024 at 8:11 AM Dave Tedeyan via RE-wrenches <
> re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:
>
>> Steve, thanks for the call. I am using voltages, rather than SOC to
>> start/stop the generator. I also just reduced the battery resistance to 0
>> based on your recommendation.
>>
>> Jay,
>> There is a temp sensor. The batteries only got to about 32deg C after 14
>> hours of charging.
>> I got the 7 hours of absorb time based on the equation
>> capacity*.42/charge current. 890AH*.42/50A = ~7.5 hours (I used 50A rather
>> than 75A, since I figured it would be unlikely that the solar would often
>> be able to sustain 75A for very long)
>> The 5% is not adjustable. I think the adjustment is in the battery
>> capacity. Steve just corrected me on this though, as he mentioned it is
>> actually 2%.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Dave
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 4, 2024 at 11:01 AM Jay  wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Dave
>>>

Re: [RE-wrenches] Racking on residential rooftops

[AE Solar via RE-wrenches]

We also never had luck with a laser, although early on that is something we
definitely tried. We use a string line. We keep drops of 2x4 that are cut
to the length of our most common panel sizes, and fasten them on to the
rails with mid clips. That way we can easily reference where the top and
bottom of the row will end up.

The installers can choose to run their stringline on the top of the 2x4 or
on the bottom (depending on the logistics of that particular row). Its good
to double check the string line in reference to the ridge, shingle line  or
drip line in various places before installing.

Then they set the second panel in the row and work their way down. Once the
row is complete the 2x4s and string line are dropped, the rails are cut to
length (we run them wild originally, and cut them flush at the end) and the
first and last panel are installed

One of our installers worked for a much larger company at some point, and
he said they didn’t use a string at all. Their method was to “keep someone
on the ground who just looked at the row and told them if it seemed like it
was going straight”. Seems like a disaster waiting to happen to me …but
that company has a lot of installs in the area and they look fine.


Adam Katzman (he/him)
Autonomous Energies | Owner/Operator
www.AutonomousEnergies.com 
(518) 567-1468



On Fri, Oct 4, 2024 at 2:44 AM William Miller via RE-wrenches <
re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:

> Jay:
>
>
>
> Is there a make and model of laser you recommend?  I bought a pretty
> expensive one and it was useless in daylight.
>
>
>
> The goal is to make the rails parallel, not necessarily straight or
> level.  I’m not sure a laser level is the right tool for this goal.
>
>
>
> Running a laser line at other than level or plumb was not that easy when I
> tried it and that seems necessary, so I am looking for hints on your
> process.
>
>
>
> William
>
>
>
> Miller Solar
>
> 17395 Oak Road, Atascadero, CA 93422
>
> 805-438-5600
>
> www.millersolar.com
>
> CA Lic. 773985
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-boun...@lists.re-wrenches.org] *On
> Behalf Of *Jay via RE-wrenches
> *Sent:* Thursday, October 3, 2024 8:39 PM
> *To:* RE-wrenches
> *Cc:* Jay
> *Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Racking on residential rooftops
>
>
>
> Hi Jim
>
>
>
> I recommend a laser level. Can be just a line laser or can be a multi line
> level.
>
> Brightness is key.
>
>
>
> Much easier, faster and accurate than using string.
>
> Also makes it much easier to keep everything straight
>
>
>
> Jay
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 3, 2024, at 7:44 PM, William Miller via RE-wrenches <
> re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:
>
> 
>
> Good question, Jim.
>
>
>
> We should all want our installations to work good and look good.
>
>
>
> A lot of this consideration is purely aesthetic.  As such, it doesn’t
> always have to be good, it just has to look good. What I mean by that is if
> there are some misalignments that can’t be seen from any vantage point,
> then it is not so critical to spend a lot of time making those perfect.  I
> always look to see what vantage points there are from which a given
> installation can be seen and focus on making the installation look good to
> those vantage points.
>
>
>
> Misaligned panels are only obvious where panel corners and edges meet.
> Your rack may undulate but as long as the panels meet up evenly that
> waviness is not readily visible.  I don’t spend too much time checking a
> roof for flat—none of them are.
>
>
>
> Two adjacent panels bolted to the same pair of rails almost always line
> up.  The bigger problem occurs when you have two or more sets of rails.  If
> the vantage point is from below and the upper set of rails is even slightly
> higher than the lower set of rails, that protruding upper panel edge can
> easily be seen.  If, however, the upper set of rails is slightly lower, it
> is less obvious.
>
>
>
> The key is to run a string line along the view axis to check to see of the
> pairs of rails are in alignment.  Make the string as tight as possible.  I
> space my string off the rail by a set amount—usually the thickness of a
> strut washer—and take another strut washer and slip it under the string at
> various locations.  The reason to space the string above is to prevent the
> rail from subtly deflecting the string without you noticing it happening.
> You can also use a spare stick of rail or any long straight edge.
>
>
>
> Lining up rows of panels is most critical if the installation can be
> viewed from the side.  If the alignment gets bad at first without
> correcting it the error can quickly compound.  The longer the row the worse
> it can get.
>
>
>
> We set the first panel carefully and then take a length of rail and bolt
> it across the other end to hold a string line.  Pick a reference point,
> usually the eave edge of the roofing—or any other straight line the eye
> might automatically compare the row of panels to—and 

[RE-wrenches] Lead acid batteries taking too much current

[Dave Tedeyan via RE-wrenches]

Hi All,

I have inherited and done some work on an off-grid system with a Sol-Ark 8k
inverter and now has a new set of 16 Rolls S6 L16-HC batteries (only about
a month old). There is only 3.9kw of solar, and there is a 12kw generator.

First of all, thanks to Steve for putting out that webinar a little while
ago on how to program a Sol-Ark with lead acid batteries! I followed that
for the programming of this inverter.

Recently, the generator kicked on when it should. But it never turned
itself off. I had to go into the battery settings and turn off grid and gen
charging to get the generator to turn off. From looking at the monitoring,
even once the batteries were full, they were still accepting over 40A of
current. A few hours later, the batteries were accepting almost 50A of
current.

The battery bank has a capacity of 890AH, but based on the FLA
recommendations I set the capacity to 70% of that, or 650AH so that it
absorbs longer. Based on the Sol-Ark programming, it will run the generator
until the batteries are accepting 5% of that, or 32.5A. It seems that since
the system never got down to that little amount of current, it never turned
off the generator and never stopped charging. I had the customer check the
water level and they said it was low, but not below the level of the
plates.

Does anyone know why the batteries might have been accepting so much
current even when fully charged? And in order to get the final amps that
the inverter is looking for to turn off the generator, I would need to set
the capacity up to about 780AH or about 90% of the rated capacity. Is
upping the capacity the recommended action to prevent this from happening
in the future?

I also have a follow up question. Being that there is not a ton of solar
here, the recommendation for a full absorb every few days ends up being
about 7 hours of absorb time. I am wondering if there is a way to force the
inverter to do an EQ cycle (although we are really just using the EQ
function on the inverter to get a full absorb cycle every few days) when we
know it will be a sunny day? I would also like to be able to start an EQ
cycle and also start the generator to give a good top off. It seems that
you can choose the EQ frequency, but you don't know exactly when it will
try to EQ.

Thanks in advance!
Cheers,
Dave
-- 

[image: Logo] 
Dave Tedeyan, P.E.
Owner | Sungineer Solar
p: he | him | his
a: 1653 Slaterville Rd. | Ithaca, NY 14850
w: www.sungineersolar.com 
c: (607) 270-0370
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