RE: [RBW] Re: Why I Like Commuting On My Bike

[Mark Chandler]

My commute ranges from 11.5 to 14 miles (one way), depending on the route I 
take.  I also have the option of swapping pavement for 1-4 miles of dirt 
roads/trails.  It took a fair amount of experimentation to come up with an 
optimal bike and setup, but now that I have it nailed down, it's actually 
easier and more enjoyable.  Riding to work makes my day longer, but the 
trade-off is definitely worth it (for me).  

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RE: [RBW] Re: tektro cr720 installation advice

[Mark Chandler]

> Date: Thu, 10 May 2012 07:19:57 -0700
> Subject: [RBW] Re: tektro cr720 installation advice
> From: steve...@gmail.com
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> 
> IMO the CR720 brakes are pretty bad in almost every way except price,
> and you could very likely spend a lot of time optimizing their
> mediocre potential.
> 
> I recommend the Shimano CX70 cantis as an excellent no-fuss
> replacement.
Have you used the CX70s with integrated brake/shift levers?
  

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RE: [RBW] Re: Cool knobbly tires at BG

[Mark Chandler]

Super-excited for these tires.  The originals had a great combination of 
roll-speed and grip, and I suspect these will be even better due to the nicer 
casing.

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RE: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

[Mark Chandler]

There's always this:http://store.somafab.com/suoxcoplrocr.html 

Date: Mon, 28 May 2012 08:43:07 -0700
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank
From: cyclotour...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

Without disregarding the financial impact, that $320 difference is 10% of a 
$3200 bike (AHH + Riv build kit). Custom paint, Honjos, WI hubs is putting it 
closer to $4K. If the light weight, low-Q & unique looks are what you're after, 
not really a deal breaker. 

For me, the proprietary chainrings would be a bigger concern over time. Sort of 
thing to stock up on IMHO. The old adage of if you find something you really 
like, buy a life-time supply as they'll quit making it at some 
point.s.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
  

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RE: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

[Mark Chandler]

My favorite "bargain" cranks are Shimano's FC-R4550.  At one point, I had three 
of them in service, but I'm down to just two sets (I sold one of the bikes).  
The 4550s are non-series components, and can be purchased quite cheaply online. 
 The inner (34t) chainring has proved to be quite durable, especially compared 
to the stock rings found on the Sugino XD cranks.  In fact, Shimano specs the 
same inner ring on the R600 and R700 cranksets (which sell for more than the 
R4550).
Would it be more cost-effective to "upgrade" to an Ultegra crank?  Probably 
not.  I'd rather take the money saved on the cranks and spend it on chains, and 
replace those at the appropriate interval to increase the other drivetrain 
components' lifespan.

Date: Thu, 31 May 2012 09:46:11 -0700
From: thill@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

With all due respect, Jan, that is a highly dubious assertion that 105 cranks 
will cost less per mile than Ultegra cranks. The MSRP difference in the crank 
is $100 ($360 for Ultegra and $260 for 105), If you assume the chainrings to be 
the primary wear item, you could buy the 105 crank and spend the extra $100 on 
some new (supposedly more durable) Ultegra rings to use when the 105 rings wear 
out. Now we're at the same price, and we've got two sets of chainrings for the 
less costly crank. That to me sounds like the 105 crank will give more miles 
for the same dollars. Of course, there's the probability that the cranks 
themselves could break, but that probability is slim with either model. How to 
compare two very small probabilities and translate it usefully to dollars/mile?

That an old Peugeot was costly to maintain is not too surprising. Those things 
are money pits. Would an equivalently priced, say, Miyata with Sun Tour parts, 
of the same vintage, have been less costly to maintain? I think yes, all else 
being equal, and barring crashes, and other mishaps. I can point at numerous 
Schwinn Varsities and similar machines that have been abused in many ways by 
many people for 40 years, and they're still on the road. Arguably, the Varsity 
is cheap for other reasons, but durability isn't one of them.

Anyway, I suspect the dollars to durability correlation to be a weak 
correlation at best, and impossible to discern in the real world. This is the 
kind of overly simplistic thing you read in an article in Bicycling that 
attempts to give first-timers some basic knowledge to buy a first road bike. 
But even Bicycling doesn't have the audacity to make a definitive claim in 
terms of dollars per mile. 

I agree that a crummy bike will be less enjoyable and will need repairs, but 
105 parts are far from crummy.


On Thursday, May 31, 2012 10:48:49 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:On May 31, 6:03 
am, Steven Frederick  wrote:

> It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's of

> Riv's proudly roll with fairly low-mid range yet functional parts, Sugino

> cranks, 105 derailers, Tektro brakes. And I see a lot of Surly's with CK

> headsets and various high-end bits. "Bike Bling."



I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more

expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000

miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or

improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower

tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable

and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank

with soft chainrings.



I learned this early-on. My mid-range Peugeot 10-speed ended up being

the most expensive bike I ever owned, per mile. Once I started riding

seriously, it needed repairs and replacements almost weekly. When I

switched to a custom frame with Campagnolo components, which cost

three times as much to buy, my per-mile cost went way down. At the

same time, my enjoyment of cycling went way up. It can be a win-win

situation, once you get over the sticker shock.



Jan Heine

Editor

Bicycle Quarterly

http://www.bikequarterly.com



Follow our blog at http://janheine.wordpress.com/


On Thursday, May 31, 2012 10:48:49 AM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:On May 31, 6:03 
am, Steven Frederick  wrote:

> It's interesting how people prioritize bike build budget money.  Lot's of

> Riv's proudly roll with fairly low-mid range yet functional parts, Sugino

> cranks, 105 derailers, Tektro brakes. And I see a lot of Surly's with CK

> headsets and various high-end bits. "Bike Bling."



I think a lot depends on how much you ride. 105 parts will be more

expensive than Ultegra in the long run, if you ride more than 2000

miles a year. Quality components offer better durability and/or

improved performance - for example, a high-end crank with narrower

tread (Q factor) and harder-wearing chainrings will be more enjoyable

and not much more expensive in the long-run than a cheap Sugino crank

with soft chainrings.



I learned this early-o

RE: [RBW] Re: Long cage rear derailer options in silver

[Mark Chandler]

If you're running a 36t rear cog, just go with a current-vintage SRAM or 
Shimano unit.  Sure, it won't be all-silver, but you also won't have to worry 
about poor shifting, etc.
FWIW, the euro LX is quite heavy, and the stamped/bent steel pieces can develop 
slop quicker than all-alloy units.

Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2012 10:33:36 -0700
From: thill@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Long cage rear derailer options in silver

What you want is either rare or non-existent. I've been though this with 
customers before, and my opinion is that it's much better if you can get the 
one that works and ride it and forget about the color. Speaking for myself, 
I've never judged a man's (or woman's) worth by the color of his (or her) 
dérailleur cage.

On Saturday, June 2, 2012 9:21:45 PM UTC-5, Scot Brooks wrote:As my new bicycle 
is taking shape, I'm painfully aware all-over-again that there are very few 
rear derailers being made in silver these days that will accomodate my 12-36t 
cassette. Other than the euro LX sold through Riv, is there anything that comes 
in a plain silver finish? I don't like the look of the black or the 
silver/black Deore, though it's reliable, easily found, and economical. I've 
given up on a used one, since rear derailers tend to suffer quite a lot of 
cosmetic degradation before being offered for sale, generally speaking. 



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RE: [RBW] Re: Saddlebags and smaller bikes

[Mark Chandler]

> Date: Thu, 7 Jun 2012 17:03:12 -0700
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Saddlebags and smaller bikes
> From: fitzb...@comcast.net
> To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
> 
> Itty bitty bike and a Carradice Barley.  I use the Carradice Bagman.
> But I'm crabby at it now, the rack part won't stay in the clamp.
Remove the tiny set screws, and remove the rack/support from the clamp.  Check 
the rack/support to make sure there are no bad gouges, cracks, etc, where the 
set screws make contact.  Replace the set screws with regular allen-style bolts 
(example: bottle cage/rack boss bolts).  When you're sure that the rack/support 
is fully seated in the clamp, remove the bolts, and apply some blue/242 Loctite 
to the bolts' threads, and snug them down good.  Let the Loctite cure for 12-24 
hours (with no load on the rack/support), and you should be good.
  

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RE: [RBW] Pressure Gauges: Facts? Opinions?

[Mark Chandler]

Recently my (several years-old) Accugage stopped holding its reading when I 
removed it from the valve.  I emailed Accugage, and asked if this could be 
fixed.  They responded promptly, and informed me that the gauge could be 
repaired, and that it would only cost $3 for return shipping.  That's 
definitely good service, IMO.

Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2012 14:06:08 -0700
From: garth...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Pressure Gauges: Facts? Opinions?

The Accugage one is about the best you're gonna find.  I've tried various 
plastic one I thought were accurate  and they were way off ! 
Myself, a battery operated gauge is a solution to problem that does not 
exist... yet creates it's own problem !  Brilliant marketing ! The batteries 
often drain even when it's not being used and then you go to use it and ... 
ooops.  No gauge !  

Some people like buying batteries though lol. I'd rather have a gauge that 
is not dependent on a battery. 
-



The Topeak one http://tinyurl.com/87mf8rn is supposed to be pretty good.


I have been looking at this analog one: http://tinyurl.com/7aubk6q








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[RBW] Tire Gods: 1, Me: 0

[Mark Chandler]

Right after posting the following review of SOMA's B-Line tires, I pulled a 
"michelin wire" out of my Rawland's rear tire (one of the aforementioned SOMAs).
http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=1052

I like my tires soft, but not that soft. :) 
  

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RE: [RBW] Re: Bosco Bars

[Mark Chandler]

This stuff will usually stop slipping components:
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=30551
  

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RE: [RBW] Re: Brake Installation Experience

[Mark Chandler]

I can't speak to the Mini Motos' width, but the arms measure 83mm (center of 
mounting bolts to brake cable).

Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 16:10:24 -0400
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Brake Installation Experience
From: uscpeter11...@gmail.com
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com

Mini motos look good but it is hard to get any concrete answer on what kind of 
clearance they have for fenders and big tires. V-brakes always make me think of 
my mother in law's beach cruiser, which mind you does stop on a dime with her 
ahem "generous" body on it but they just have such an xmart quality to them.  
Oh and BTW http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/cat's_pyjamas 



  

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[RBW] FS: Shimano cantilevers

[Mark Chandler]

Looks like I'm swearing off canti's for good.  Up for grabs is a bike's worth 
of Shimano BR-R550 cantilever brakes (compatible with drop-bar levers, nice 
silver finish).  Lightly used.  Includes Shimano link wires and fancy Tektro 
yokes/straddle cables (silver finish, which matches the brake arms).  
Pads/holders are black Tektro units, and use MTB-style inserts.  Used maybe a 
few hundred miles.  $30 obo shipped to the lower-48.  PayPal only, please.Email 
directly if you're interested. 

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Re: [RBW] 8-speed Bleriot build question. MTB or Road derailers?

[Mark Chandler]

microSHIFT still produces 8-speed road and MTB components.


On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 8:56 PM, Michael  wrote:

> MTB derailers or Road derailers.
>
> What's the diff, if anything?
>
> I know RBW seems to like MTB derailers for all their current build
> kits (Deore).
>
> Any benefits to Road 8-speed derailers over MTB?
>
> I am under the assumption that any 8-speed Road parts are going to have to
> be NOS or used, because looks like 8-speed derailers don't exist anymore in
> current production offerings as of 2014?
>
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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: FYI - V-Brake Arm Lengths

[Mark Chandler]

Generally, I've found that anything over 95mm needs a long-pull lever. My
rule of thumb is that brakes up to 85mm work OK with modern (integrated)
brake levers, but you need a little more cable-pull for 90mm arms (the
more-recent Shimano levers work well). Since I don't like the hood shape on
the Tektro RL520 levers, I generally go to upright bars/levers if I need
that much cable-pull.


On Fri, Jun 20, 2014 at 11:52 AM, dougP  wrote:

> Now there's good information we can use.  I've puzzled over this question
> several times over the last couple of years.  A corresponding list of lever
> cable pulls would also be helpful.  In my own crude measurements and
> experience, "standard" levers have the pivot about an inch from the cable
> mount, and "long pull" about an inch-and-a-quarter.  I definitely need long
> pulls on 110 mm brakes, and have used standards up to 84 mm.  But that
> leaves a whole bunch of brakes in between.  And there must be other levers
> out there besides the Tektro road long pulls.
>
> Thanks for compiling.
>
> dougP
>
>
> On Friday, June 20, 2014 9:12:47 AM UTC-7, Mark Chandler / GRAVELBIKE.com
> wrote:
>>
>> If you want to know if a particular v-brake will clear your bike's tire
>> or fender, I've compiled a list of arm lengths for popular v-brakes. This
>> is a living document, and I'll update it as more info becomes available
>> (not all manu's list their brakes' lengths).
>>
>> The list is available here:
>> http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=3298
>>
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[RBW] Re: [BOB] Re: FYI - V-Brake Arm Lengths

[Mark Chandler]

I use the center of mounting boss/bolt to center of cable anchor fitting
measurement.

Older models would definitely be welcome (along with model names/numbers).


On Fri, Jun 20, 2014 at 10:53 AM, Ginz  wrote:

> Mark,
>
> I love this.  How do you prefer to measure the arms?  Center of fixing
> bolt to center of cable anchor bolt?  Do you want to catalog older brakes
> or just those in current production?
>
> Eric
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: FYI - V-Brake Arm Lengths

[Mark Chandler]

That would be indeed be useful info, but many manu's don't list that
measurement. I do know that the Paul MotoLite has an extended range of
adjustment, as do BOX/Promax.


On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Justin August 
wrote:

> I think a good addition would be distance of bottom of brake slot from
> pivot point and top of slot from pivot point. Could be helpful to some
> folks trying conversion things.
>
> -J
>
>
> On Saturday, June 21, 2014 11:16:23 AM UTC-4, John Boland wrote:
>>
>> Well, Riv sells v-brakes, so that seems as good a litmus test for
>> BOBishness as any.  I am convinced that v-brakes are the most underrated of
>> braking systems.  Not as pretty as cantilevers (IMHO) and not as purely
>> efficient in all conditions as discs (debatable), but they are light
>> weight, inexpensive, and just *work* with minimal fuss.  I think
>> entry-level mountain bikes would be better off with a quality set of V's
>> than the no-name, low budget cable discs that are endemic to the species.
>> And entry-level CXers would certainly be better off with V's than the cheap
>> and maladjusted canti's that are endemic* that* species.  Anyway, thanks
>> for the chart.  I think it will be very useful to the v-brake cognoscenti.
>>
>> On Friday, June 20, 2014 12:12:47 PM UTC-4, Mark Chandler /
>> GRAVELBIKE.com wrote:
>>
>>> If you want to know if a particular v-brake will clear your bike's tire
>>> or fender, I've compiled a list of arm lengths for popular v-brakes. This
>>> is a living document, and I'll update it as more info becomes available
>>> (not all manu's list their brakes' lengths).
>>>
>>> The list is available here:
>>> http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=3298
>>>
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Re: [BOB] Re: [RBW] Re: FYI - V-Brake Arm Lengths

[Mark Chandler]

I've used them, and like them quite a bit. My only complaint is that the
cable is secured via a grub/set-screw (rather than a conventional
bolt/washer).


On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 5:16 PM, Zack B  wrote:

> Anyone using the box eclipse v-brakes want to comment on them?
>
>
> On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 1:15 PM, Mark Chandler 
> wrote:
>
>> That would be indeed be useful info, but many manu's don't list that
>> measurement. I do know that the Paul MotoLite has an extended range of
>> adjustment, as do BOX/Promax.
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Justin August 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I think a good addition would be distance of bottom of brake slot from
>>> pivot point and top of slot from pivot point. Could be helpful to some
>>> folks trying conversion things.
>>>
>>> -J
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 21, 2014 11:16:23 AM UTC-4, John Boland wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Well, Riv sells v-brakes, so that seems as good a litmus test for
>>>> BOBishness as any.  I am convinced that v-brakes are the most underrated of
>>>> braking systems.  Not as pretty as cantilevers (IMHO) and not as purely
>>>> efficient in all conditions as discs (debatable), but they are light
>>>> weight, inexpensive, and just *work* with minimal fuss.  I think
>>>> entry-level mountain bikes would be better off with a quality set of V's
>>>> than the no-name, low budget cable discs that are endemic to the species.
>>>> And entry-level CXers would certainly be better off with V's than the cheap
>>>> and maladjusted canti's that are endemic* that* species.  Anyway,
>>>> thanks for the chart.  I think it will be very useful to the v-brake
>>>> cognoscenti.
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, June 20, 2014 12:12:47 PM UTC-4, Mark Chandler /
>>>> GRAVELBIKE.com wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> If you want to know if a particular v-brake will clear your bike's
>>>>> tire or fender, I've compiled a list of arm lengths for popular v-brakes.
>>>>> This is a living document, and I'll update it as more info becomes
>>>>> available (not all manu's list their brakes' lengths).
>>>>>
>>>>> The list is available here:
>>>>> http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=3298
>>>>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Any recommendations on a "Atlantis wannabe"?

[Mark Chandler]

You may want to look at Black Mountain Cycles' cross model.


On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 9:54 AM, 'Rick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I second the Long Haul Trucker recommendation, and would add the Cross
> Check as another possible Surly option.
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 24, 2014 10:48:25 AM UTC-4, Clayton wrote:
>
>> I own an Atlantis and it has been my favorite bike, ever. I bought the
>> frame new in '99 or so and it has been my main transportation since then. I
>> love the fit and am trying to find an inexpensive frame, such as an old
>> chromoly Mt. Bike frame, that has close to the same geometry for my
>> girlfriend. I am hoping the tribe has some suggestions?
>>
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Re: [RBW] If you were going to go out and buy a fully modern contemporary bike, what would it be?

[Mark Chandler]

I run Jeff's Loop Bar on my fully-rigid 29er, but hope to own one of his
space frames and truss forks one day.


On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:50 PM, john muhl  wrote:

> The Jeff Jones bikes (and h-bar!) are thoroughly tempting.
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 25, 2014 at 3:58 PM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
>> Most (all?) of us have a strong affinity for steel bikes.  Many of us
>> like various classic or retro properties:  lugs, friction dt shifters,
>> fewer than 11 cogs, etc.  Several of us really enjoy doing builds on
>> classic bikes from the 70s/80s/90s etc.  Many of us lament that nothing new
>> or contemporary speaks to us at all.  But many others of us do have
>> openings in the stable for things that are decidedly new.  Some of us run
>> fatbikes.  A few of us maybe has a Gates beltbike, or a newfangled folder,
>> or a dual-suspension 29er.  Some of us even have a carbon bike.
>>
>> My stable is now at 9 bikes all steel, but I'll admit that I'm pretty
>> darned infatuated with this bike:
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> A sloping TT road bike, with more BB drop than a cyclocross bike.  135mm
>> rear end, disc brakes.  Very smart front facing fork tips and normal wheel
>> axles.  Takes 29x1.75 tires without fenders, and would easily run 700x38
>> tires (tubeless) with fenders.  Has all the integrated fender mount points.
>>  Has a PF30 BB that makes it easy to set it up as a singlespeed.
>>
>> Add to that I can get the frame/fork/headset from Jenson for $1050 and
>> get a free $250 gift card for my next purchase(s).  So it's an $800
>> frameset.
>> I'm having a hard time thinking of anything not to like.  Five years ago,
>> when we whined that modern bikes were designed too much for pure road
>> racers, this is the kind of thoroughly modern real-world bike I thought was
>> missing.  I have bikes that are setup to carry loads well.  For mixed
>> terrain stuff that I'd do unloaded, this bike would definitely get ridden.
>>  I imagine it would be incredibly fun
>>
>> Are there any thoroughly modern bikes that tempt you?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Any recommendations on a "Atlantis wannabe"?

[Mark Chandler]

I owned a Saga and am demo'ing a Privateer. They ride similarly, but the
Saga was just a hair smoother. If you want to save a little $$$, the
Privateer is an excellent choice.


On Tue, Jun 24, 2014 at 9:42 AM, eflayer  wrote:

> Depends on what size wheels you are looking for. If 700c, I might suggest
> the New Albion Privateer:
>
> http://newalbioncycles.com/privateer1/
>
> Or Soma Saga:
>
> http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/saga
>
> Maybe slightly better tubes on the Saga, but who knows? I took a short
> ride on the built up Saga and found it to be nice parts and quite the ride.
>
>
> On Tuesday, June 24, 2014 7:48:25 AM UTC-7, Clayton wrote:
>
>> I own an Atlantis and it has been my favorite bike, ever. I bought the
>> frame new in '99 or so and it has been my main transportation since then. I
>> love the fit and am trying to find an inexpensive frame, such as an old
>> chromoly Mt. Bike frame, that has close to the same geometry for my
>> girlfriend. I am hoping the tribe has some suggestions?
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: If you were going to go out and buy a fully modern contemporary bike, what would it be?

[Mark Chandler]

I spent ~3 years on a Salsa Vaya, and it was *extremely *capable on
dirt/gravel and pavement. There is something about a steel frame/fork that
just plain works on dirt and gravel roads. I have a 29er that's built
around an aluminum frame and carbon fork, but I will probably switch to a
steel fork to smooth out the bigger bumps.


On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 12:32 PM, Shaun Meehan 
wrote:

> Bikes like the RLT and others mentioned here make a lot of sense IMHO.
> I'm doing RAGBRAI in July and on a internet forum I was reading, there
> was a thread that essentially amounted to people wringing their hands about
> the fact that a couple of stretches of gravel might occur on the route. I
> refrained from responding, but my thought was that if they are that worried
> about gravel, maybe they've got the wrong bike. These "road" bikes that
> offer clearance for bigger tires, and are equipped to take fenders (and
> racks?) don't give up much to a "racing" bike and are a lot more versatile.
> I think I'm going to ride my Surly Straggler on RAGBRAI this year and I've
> done two 100+ mile gravel grinders on it since May. I welcome a stretch or
> two of gravel!
>
> Shaun Meehan
>
>
> On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Garth  wrote:
>
>> Bill and Leslie , Yes Yes Yes ! Getting very warm !I've never
>> ridden a mixte, let alone a 60cm one with a nice tall front end . I'd like
>> a bit taller than my 60cm. Bombadil, and with possibly a bit lower trail
>> and even more front-center distance.  Longer chainstays possibly also !
>>
>>  As long as the front end can be as stable as my Bomba even with front
>> loads when standing and climbing, I'm in with the TT being gone.  If not, I
>> can still live with a TT, but boy, mixte's just have an appealing look to
>> me :)
>>
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul's brakes on your Riv. Experience between models?

[Mark Chandler]

If you're using MTB-style levers, and they're compatible with v-brakes, I'd
recommend some full-size v-brakes (i.e. 100mm or longer
). Power will be greatly improved, and
clearance shouldn't be an issue.

Given the choice, I'll take mini/v-brakes over cantilevers any day. In
fact, for tires less than 35mm wide, I prefer modern (dual-pivot) sidepull
calipers.


On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 8:26 PM, Jay Lonner  wrote:

> I have Neo-Retros on my Hunq and I have to say I'm a little disappointed.
> They look great, but don't have as much stopping power as I'd like. (I've
> consulted Sheldon's articles on cantilever brake theory and practice, and
> have done my best to optimize the geometry.)
>
> The Minis are an intriguing option, but I'm worried about fender clearance
> with 55mm tires. I'd also be using MTB-style levers.
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
>
> On Saturday, July 19, 2014 5:20:10 PM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:
>>
>> So my curiosity has been peaked after a brief discussion on the trail
>> with a guy about his Paul's mini motos. He was very impressed with them
>> even having previously been using the neo retros on the same bike, a Rock
>> Lobster cross. The claim was FAR more power and better modulation with all
>> other variables consistent. Levers were cane creek. For some reason I
>> lumped the Minis in with the touring cantis in that they were for more
>> clearance, but not much different as to power. After some quick reading on
>> the magic computer box, it seems this guy is not alone in his assessment.
>>
>> I am a big fan of cantilever style brakes. So much so, I decided to take
>> the center mount racers off my Hilsen to have canti studs added. Plan was
>> to swap the Racers for some Neo Retros...but now I'm wondering about the
>> Mini Motos.
>>
>> Has anyone tried the Minis, or even better, both Minis and Neos??
>>
>> For the record, I know I like the Neos , and the direct mount racers on
>> my Rambler are awesome. And YES, I realize a set of xt v-brakes would
>> deliver, but I don't like the aesthetic and don't want to change levers.
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: the new Suntour?

[Mark Chandler]

The derailleurs are made by microSHIFT. I've ridden a number of
microSHIFT-produced derailleurs, and the SunXCD-branded ones have worked
well.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 7:57 AM, M D Smith  wrote:

> The "Exceed" crank arms look very nice.  I particularly like the idea of
> an adapter to allow the use of 110/74 bcd chainrings.
>
> I'm a big TA Cyclotouriste fan, particularly now that it's easier to
> source chainrings, but it would be nice to be able to use more "normal"
> rings.
>
> Cheers- Mike in Htfd, CT
>
>
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Re: [RBW] the new Suntour?

[Mark Chandler]

The lower-end microSHIFT derailleurs don't shift as well as the similarly
priced Shimano units. The former have more slop, and are less tolerant of
dirt and/or poor setup. microSHIFT's higher-end derailleurs do function
quite nicely. Their non-sealed pulleys, however, aren't as smooth as the
ones found on Shimano or SRAM units.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 11:09 AM, Garth  wrote:

>
> Oh... I guess it says 28t max cog .  Hmmm. the wrap is the same though,
> and the cage looks just as long .  . . .idk.  lol  !
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, July 23, 2014 1:04:23 PM UTC-4, Garth wrote:
>>
>>
>> How 'bout this one Jim :)
>> All silver too
>>
>> http://www.microshift.com.tw/RD-R47S_r10.html
>> http://www.ebikestop.com/microshift_r10_long_cage_10_
>> speed_rear_derailleur-RD0103.php
>>
>> https://www.google.com/search?q=MicroShift+R10+Long+Cage+10+
>> speed+Rear+Derailleur&gws_rd=ssl#q=MicroShift+Rd+r47+Long+
>> Cage+10+speed+Rear+Derailleur&safe=off
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Interesting blog entry (and comments/replies) from Jan Heine's blog

[Mark Chandler]

I, for one, welcome our new, non-computer-using, randonneuring overlords...

On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 9:00 AM, Mike  wrote:

>
>> Sure, only it can be very hard to follow a cue sheet in unfamiliar
>> territory when you don't have any idea of your mileage.
>
>
> I haven't used a computer for randonneuring in years and haven't had any
> problem.
>
> Folks, I know we can do it. We can take this thread to 150 post if
> everyone pitches in. Let's do it!
>
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Re: [RBW] Really not too off topic: disk brake question

[Mark Chandler]

Truing rotors can be pretty difficult.  Before attempting to true a rotor,
always make sure that the mounting bolts are properly tightened.

I've also found that this stuff works well for getting rid of "flutter":

http://www.gravelbike.com/?p=1177

On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 6:15 PM, Jim Mather  wrote:

> Park actually makes a rotor truing tool:
> http://www.parktool.com/product/rotor-truing-fork-dt-2
>
> And a Youtube how to:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nHdQkm14JVw
>
> jim m
> wc ca
>
> On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 3:35 PM, Peter Morgano 
> wrote:
> > I had a smiliar problem on a Giant Traverse (I know, I know) that used
> to be
> > my around town ride. LBS said that if you were good with soft hammer on a
> > work bench/bench vise you could do it but really to just buy new discs if
> > you want it to be "perfect."
> >
> > On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 6:31 PM, PATRICK MOORE 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I say "not too off topic" since the brakes in question are on the
> >> Fargo which is quite Rivendellianishly (gad, how's that for a cobbled
> >> together adverb? Rivishly?) set up and, moreover, the disks are really
> >> the only brakes that will allow quick wheel changes between 27 mm rims
> >> and 44 mm rims.
> >>
> >> Anyway: The front Avid BB7 rotor has been bent and rebent and is now
> >> rather wavy and just barely nicks the pads as it goes by -- so
> >> slightly that feathering the brake will stop it for a half mile or so;
> >> but it comes back. I don't want to back off the pads any further. Does
> >> anyone have any instructions or can anyone point me to instructions on
> >> the web for getting a slightly wavy disk (160 mm) back into plane?
> >>
> >> The exactly similar disk on the Kojak wheelset is centered fine, as
> >> are both rears.
> >>
> >> The "shish-shish-shish" sound was rather annoying just now on my
> afternoon
> >> ride.
> >>
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> >> --
> >> "When in Rome, do as they done in Milledgeville."
> >>
> >> Flannery O'Connor
> >>
> >> -
> >> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM, USA
> >> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> >> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> >> -
> >>
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Re: [RBW] Re: SKS Longboard silver/tan/black colors. Have you seen them? How do they look? Nice?

[Mark Chandler]

I have the black Longboards on my daily rider (Salsa Vaya).  While not as 
fancy-looking as Honjos or Berthouds, they look nice enough that I wouldn't pay 
more just aesthetics.



 From: Norman 
To: RBW Owners Bunch  
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 1:22 PM
Subject: [RBW] Re: SKS Longboard silver/tan/black colors. Have you seen them? 
How do they look? Nice?
 
Here's a link to my Hillborne (Atlantic green/blue w/ cream fenders):
http://www.flickr.com/photos/norro/7255844062/in/photostream
But don't sweat too much over it, they're just fenders on a bike.
Norman

On Aug 11, 11:43 pm, lungimsam  wrote:
> I am himming and hawing over which color to get.
> Tan, silver , or black.
>
> My Bleriot is Minty Blue/cream headtube.
> Tan could work, silver would be fine, and black would work because I have
> black bars and saddle.
>
> Anyone know does the black and tan look cheap? Or good?
>
> Let me know. Thanks. Just can't decide what will look best.

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Re: [RBW] Longboard fender rub

[Mark Chandler]

Same here.  Part of the problem is the flexibility, and part of it is due to 
the narrow clearance at the flap.  Planet Bike's Cascadia fenders allow for 
more clearance, and are far more rigid, but don't have the coverage of the 
Longboards.  Narrower tires will help with flap slap, but the inherent flex 
issue remains.




>
> From: john 
>To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
>Sent: Wednesday, August 22, 2012 10:02 AM
>Subject: [RBW] Longboard fender rub
> 
>
>I experience annoying rubbing near the bottom of the fender when going over 
>rough pavement, gravel, etc. Seems that there is not a lot of torsional 
>rigidity in these fenders. I have adjusted several times. 
>
>
>I run these fenders on a 60cm Sam with Pasella 35C tires. Anyone else out 
>there experience the same thing? Any suggestions?
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>
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[RBW] FS: Carradice Bagman 2 "Sport" saddlebag support

[Mark Chandler]

I'm selling a lightly used Carradice Bagman 2 Sport saddlebag support. 
 Lighter and stiffer than the original Bagman (can't comment as to whether 
it's laterally stiff yet vertically compliant).  $40/shipped via USPS 
Priority Mail (US).  PayPal only, please.  Measurements and details 
available 
here
.

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