[RBW] Re: 1st world commuting dilemma

[Ginz]

ah yes,, the least expensive bike always gets the most use, doesn't it?

If you like the Atlantis and WANT to use it as a commuter, go for it.  
 View it as a personal challenge to beat it up, wear it out and use it up.  
Accept that part of that challenge includes the bike *might* disappear one 
day.  That's just a possibility, not certainty.   However, this is all easy 
for me to say.  I have the same habits you do!

Good luck!
Ginz

On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 9:49:30 AM UTC-5 Josh C wrote:

> Hello all. I find myself trying to make a decision regarding which bike to 
> use as my commuter. 
>
> Background: I live in Indianapolis and ride my bike for a good chunk of my 
> daily needs. I have a short commute to work which is done on bike 90% of 
> the time. I usually work from 5:20-ish am to about 6:30 pm 3-4 days a week. 
> The only days I don't ride in are if it's pouring rain when I get up, or 
> the snow is too deep to get through. I could ride in the rain, and don't 
> mind it on the way home, but already get up at 4:30 am and simply don't 
> have time to change or mess with it on work days. I'm commuting on a 
> Rohloff-equipped Surly Ogre currently and have put less than 1K miles on my 
> car this year. We live near downtown and are a short ride to many things 
> that we like to do. We often ride to ball games, art exhibits, concerts, 
> dinners, drinks...you name it.  
>
> Dilemma: Now I warned you that this is a 1st world problem, but here goes. 
> I have several Riv's and they are my favorite bikes to ride but I find 
> myself on the Ogre more often than any other bike. I may accumulate more 
> miles on my Rivs, as I ride a Toyo Atlantis as my all-road bike, but I do 
> way more trips on the Surly. For some reason, I simply feel more 
> comfortable locking up the Surly for 13 hours or outside of a music venue 
> downtown than I do a Rivendell. In my mind, the Riv seems like more of a 
> target for would-be thieves than the Surly and thus it gets most of the 
> day-to-day duty. The thing is that I enjoy riding a Rivendell much more 
> than the Surly and, after giving this some thought, had decided to buy a 
> Clem when this latest batch of completes was released, and start using it 
> for my daily driver. 
>
> However, after doing some math in my head, and realizing that I'd likely 
> change a lot of the Clem complete build, I am thinking that I'd might as 
> well ride one of the Rivs that I currently own. By the time I get the Clem 
> to my door, I've spent $2500 with shipping and tax. I'd change the bars, 
> add a saddle, add fenders, have the front wheel rebuilt with a dyno hub, 
> and so on. I'd easily be into it for $3K or more. My Surly has a $1400 rear 
> hub and is easily over the $3K mark. 
>
> I am lucky enough to have two Rivendell Atlantis and a Hunq. I've owned 
> several others in the past as well. One of the Atlantis bikes that I have 
> would fit the bill. It's the more recent style with the longer wheelbase & 
> double top tube. These are super sturdy bikes that wouldn't mind being 
> loaded up and taken to work. I've already got a wheelset with a dyno hub 
> and a light lying around here somewhere. I purchased this bike for $3K this 
> summer from a local guy. I didn't need the bike but just couldn't pass it 
> up as it was so cool! 
>
> I thought to myself: I've locked up more expensive bikes at work for 13 
> hours or at music venues until the wee hours of the night without issue, so 
> why not just do the bulk of my riding on a bike that I truly enjoy riding? 
> What am I saving it for? 
>
> Questions: Is my logic sound? Do you think that riding a nice Riv to work, 
> to lock it up outside all, day in a city, is a dumb idea? Do you commute on 
> a Riv that is left outside all day? 
>
> *I'd also like to use this as an opportunity to see some of your 
> commuters. Feel free to post a pic of your daily driver and also, let us 
> know if you lock it up outside or not. *
>
> The potential commuter. (I'd change the fenders and bars)
> [image: IMG_0630 Medium.jpeg]
>
> My current all road bike
> [image: IMG_0514 Medium.jpeg]
>
> Not a commuter. I ride this guy around quite a bit though. 
> [image: IMG_0570 Medium.jpeg]
>
> The Surly, although it now has had Jones bars on it for quite some time. 
> [image: IMG_0230 Medium.jpeg]
>

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[RBW] Free: Rivendell Reader 42

[Ginz]

Rivendell Reader #42, original copy, good condition.

I found an extra on my shelf.  

First response takes it, free.

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[RBW] Re: Free: Rivendell Reader 42

[Ginz]

Claimed!

On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 8:58:13 PM UTC-5 Ginz wrote:

> Rivendell Reader #42, original copy, good condition.
>
> I found an extra on my shelf.  
>
> First response takes it, free.
>

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[RBW] Re: Feeler: ISO extra-small 26er?

[Ginz]

Soma Fab has a 42cm Buena Vista Mixte. I don't think it gets you a MUCH 
shorter top tube (518mm vs the typical 525mm or 540mm on a 48cm frame) , 
but it is easier to mount for a smaller rider.

They also go on sale now and then.



On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 12:46:08 PM UTC-5 Michael Morrissey wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
> I'm thinking about getting a new bike for my wife. Currently, she has a 
> Trek FX. She likes it a lot, but I can't help but think it doesn't fit her 
> right. She is 5 feet tall, yet the bike has 700x35 tires. The frame is 
> small but I think it's crazy to have an extra-small bike with the biggest 
> wheel size. Google "Trek FX 13 inch" and look at this ridiculously 
> proportioned bicycle. It looks like a penny-farthing.
>
> I think she would be much more comfortable on a steel 26" wheeled bike. I 
> especially like it because I already own 3 vintage 26" mountain bikes as 
> parts sources. She has expressed interest in getting a lighter bike, more 
> roadish, with drop bars. She really likes the color blue, so I want to get 
> her a blue bike. I spoke with a local custom builder, who loved the idea 
> and quoted me $1800 for a custom frame. 
>
> I've got an eBay notification going for the Surly Long Haul Trucker in 
> extra-small 42cm. This would check all my boxes. 
>
> I was wondering if anyone has experience (or ones they will get rid of 
> cheap) with the smallest of touring bikes: 
> Joe Appaloosa in 46cm
> Atlantis in 47cm?
> Surly Long Haul Trucker or Disc Trucker in 42cm
> Clem Smith / Clementine in 45cm 
> Buy another old Gary Fisher and add drop bars and call it a day? 
> Others???
>
> I'd even consider a 24" wheeled bike for her. Crust bikes made a Romanceur 
> in 24". Salsa makes a 24" gravel bike that looks really nice too.
>
> If anyone has one we could try, we are in NYC.
>
> Thanks! 
>
> Michael 
>

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[RBW] Re: Feeler: ISO extra-small 26er?

[Ginz]

Actually, I was thinking of putting one of these away for my kids. 
Unfortunatley, the 42cm model only fits 26" wheels on the 
dual-pivot/centerbull brake version,  49-57mm reach.  Not the end of the 
world but not at good as canti brakes.


On Friday, January 12, 2024 at 11:21:11 AM UTC-5 Ginz wrote:

> Soma Fab has a 42cm Buena Vista Mixte. I don't think it gets you a MUCH 
> shorter top tube (518mm vs the typical 525mm or 540mm on a 48cm frame) , 
> but it is easier to mount for a smaller rider.
>
> They also go on sale now and then.
>
>
>
> On Thursday, January 11, 2024 at 12:46:08 PM UTC-5 Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
>> Hi Everyone,
>>
>> I'm thinking about getting a new bike for my wife. Currently, she has a 
>> Trek FX. She likes it a lot, but I can't help but think it doesn't fit her 
>> right. She is 5 feet tall, yet the bike has 700x35 tires. The frame is 
>> small but I think it's crazy to have an extra-small bike with the biggest 
>> wheel size. Google "Trek FX 13 inch" and look at this ridiculously 
>> proportioned bicycle. It looks like a penny-farthing.
>>
>> I think she would be much more comfortable on a steel 26" wheeled bike. I 
>> especially like it because I already own 3 vintage 26" mountain bikes as 
>> parts sources. She has expressed interest in getting a lighter bike, more 
>> roadish, with drop bars. She really likes the color blue, so I want to get 
>> her a blue bike. I spoke with a local custom builder, who loved the idea 
>> and quoted me $1800 for a custom frame. 
>>
>> I've got an eBay notification going for the Surly Long Haul Trucker in 
>> extra-small 42cm. This would check all my boxes. 
>>
>> I was wondering if anyone has experience (or ones they will get rid of 
>> cheap) with the smallest of touring bikes: 
>> Joe Appaloosa in 46cm
>> Atlantis in 47cm?
>> Surly Long Haul Trucker or Disc Trucker in 42cm
>> Clem Smith / Clementine in 45cm 
>> Buy another old Gary Fisher and add drop bars and call it a day? 
>> Others???
>>
>> I'd even consider a 24" wheeled bike for her. Crust bikes made a 
>> Romanceur in 24". Salsa makes a 24" gravel bike that looks really nice too.
>>
>> If anyone has one we could try, we are in NYC.
>>
>> Thanks! 
>>
>> Michael 
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Secuzed Plus Dyno Tail light

[Ginz]

Hello all, 

I have a Secuzed plus dyno tail light FENDER mount that I don't need.  $30 
shipped.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/GjcemZL92qoCaJop8

I mounted this on a bike last year and I don't think I ever rode it.  It 
shows no sign of ever leaving my house.  I wasn't pleased with the wiring 
route under my fender and I gave up and went with a stay mounted light.

Message me directly.

Thanks,
Ginz


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[RBW] Re: Drops vs albatross. Easy to swap or do I need two bikes?

[Ginz]

I have a bike that swaps between Nitto Bullmoose and Albatross.  Friction 
shifting and mtb-style brake levers makes the swap very easy.  

Swapping between flat bar brake levers and drop levers is going to be more 
fiddly because you will have to use cable splitters (with mtb levers you 
can just slide the cable head out of the lever via the barrel adjuster's 
slot provided your cable routing and housing length is similar for both 
bars) and you will probably have to adjust the brake cable tension each 
time you swap and make sure your brake pad clearence is good.

>From personal experience, I wouldn't want to swap bars more than once in a 
while unless I really had a space limitation and extra time to plan my 
rides.  But, of course it can be done.

Good Luck!
Ginz

On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 8:24:41 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Let me suggest that you get yourself some albastache bars. I think you 
> would feel comfortable in all of your scenarios with those handlebars. They 
> are the secret weapon in Rivendell's offerings.
>
> On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 8:14:04 AM UTC-4 erik.s...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>>
>> Answering on the practical side (easily swapping handlebars) rather than 
>> the “should I own two bikes” side of things, Russ from Path Less Pedaled 
>> did a video a while back on optimizing 1 bike for easy cockpit swaps. 
>> Basically using a little Jagwire cable splitting doodad so the cables and 
>> housing can mostly stay in place when swapping bars. It makes more sense if 
>> your bike has full-length housing, but there may still be some nuggets in 
>> there that are helpful.
>>
>> https://youtu.be/qj0qOyw_Es8?si=wKDJKxwHhdtKdBg0
>>
>> Could be a good in-between option while you’re building up your second 
>> bike ;)
>>
>> Erik, Philly
>> On Wednesday, May 1, 2024 at 2:23:08 AM UTC-4 Michael wrote:
>>
>>> Looking for a single bike for casual rides on bike 
>>> paths/paved/gravel/dirt roads with the occasional 100 mile ride thrown in. 
>>> Will suggest the Sam Hillborne, which I'm leaning towards. I assumed I 
>>> would build it with drops for the long rides but I recently fell in love 
>>> with albatross bars for upright lazy bike path rides. 
>>> Is there a way to quickly/easily swap handlebars or are two bikes 
>>> inevitable? 
>>> Would a Sam with drops and an appaloosa or atlantis w/ albatross be a 
>>> good combo or is that too much overlap? 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Will the 50cm Susie be too small?

[Ginz]

How long are your arms?  For me, that would be the deciding factor as to 
whether I'd want a longer or shorter top tube.

On Monday, May 13, 2024 at 8:37:05 PM UTC-4 Valerie Yates wrote:

> I am 5'6 with an 83 pbh and not long torso. For me, the medium Susie is 
> perfect. The bike overall feels big in a very fun way but the dimensions 
> within the cockpit are quite comfy. In fact, my bosco bars are a little 
> closer than I'd normally choose but the bike came with them and I'm not 
> sufficiently motivated to make any changes. In this photo, the top of my 
> saddle is at 72 and the bottom of its rails are at 64. There is plenty of 
> room to lower the saddle. On the other side, the dirt drop stem, which you 
> cannot see, is completely slammed. With a different combination of stem and 
> bars, you could likely make it work for you. I think it depends on whether 
> you instinctively prefer a compact feeling frame or a larger one. I've 
> always liked being on larger-feeling bikes. When in doubt, call Rivendell 
> and ask their opinion. Good luck!
>
> [image: Susie M.jpg]
>
> On Monday, May 13, 2024 at 1:34:17 PM UTC-6 johnwc...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey y’all, longtime lurker here. Looking to potentially pick up my first 
>> Riv and have a few questions about sizing. Maybe someone with similar 
>> measurements and own a Susie/Gus could chime in. 
>>
>> I’m looking at the 50cm in gold color. Riv says:
>>
>>
>>- 50cm  (650B wheels): 74-76cm. Saddle height: 63cm to 65cm
>>- 53cm (650B wheels):  77-88cm. Saddle height: 66cm to 77cm
>>
>> My PBH is: 76.5cm-78cm measured multiple times. I’m 5’6 with a longer 
>> torso. 
>>
>> Saddle height: 64cm (most of my bikes are Riv inspired vtg MTBs with 
>> upright bars and this feels comfy for me)
>>
>> Seems like I'm on the edge between Med / Small. Can the small fit without 
>> feeling too cramped? FWIW, I rode a Gus test bike years ago at Rivelo here 
>> in PDX while it was still open. They were fantastic, but unfortunately I 
>> can't remember if I rode a small or med size frame.  
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Bullmoose Alternatives

[Ginz]

Hello Everyone,

I know that Bullmoose has be discussed quite a bit around here.

I have the 150mm extension bullmoose from Rivendell.  The rise, especially 
on my Hunqapiller with the stem slammed, is a bit too much.

Has anyone come up with a stem/bar combination that is both similar to the 
sweep of the Bullmoose as well as off road appropariate, but with much less 
overall rise?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Eric

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Alternatives

[Ginz]

I should have said similar sweep angle and overall extension, which is 
roughly negative by a few centimeters!

On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:41:39 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:

> Hello Everyone,
>
> I know that Bullmoose has be discussed quite a bit around here.
>
> I have the 150mm extension bullmoose from Rivendell.  The rise, especially 
> on my Hunqapiller with the stem slammed, is a bit too much.
>
> Has anyone come up with a stem/bar combination that is both similar to the 
> sweep of the Bullmoose as well as off road appropariate, but with much less 
> overall rise?
>
> Thanks for any suggestions.
>
> Eric
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Alternatives

[Ginz]

Ah, ok.  I did not see the bull bar.  Does Nitto consider this to be an 
"off road" bar?  

So it requires the nitto faceplater stem, which is ok.  

Geez, I can't believe I didn't see this before.  Thanks!

On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:49:35 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:

> Have you seen the bullbar? I have it on my Atlantis and really like it
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/products/handlebar-nitto-b901raa?srsltid=AfmBOoo21TuxDTc8_5dZM40Q4_DdekPaU69INyKw7NqX6RjQ_0rQZWdr
>
> Max
>
> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:46:49 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>
>> I should have said similar sweep angle and overall extension, which 
>> is roughly negative by a few centimeters!
>>
>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:41:39 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hello Everyone,
>>>
>>> I know that Bullmoose has be discussed quite a bit around here.
>>>
>>> I have the 150mm extension bullmoose from Rivendell.  The rise, 
>>> especially on my Hunqapiller with the stem slammed, is a bit too much.
>>>
>>> Has anyone come up with a stem/bar combination that is both similar to 
>>> the sweep of the Bullmoose as well as off road appropariate, but with much 
>>> less overall rise?
>>>
>>> Thanks for any suggestions.
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Alternatives

[Ginz]

Jared,

So, it really is the exact same curve as the Bullmoose, right? So, to get 
the exact same reach I'd need a 150mm stem, of which I think 135mm is the 
max Nitto offers in the faceplater.

The Waive could also work I think.  Might even be a little better for 
non-trail riding.

On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 3:59:42 PM UTC-4 jaredwilson wrote:

> Had a bull bar on my XL Susie, it's a very nice unit and I would recommend 
> it to anyone.
>
> Paired with a Faceplater stem you'll be in good shape.
>
> Let us know how things transpire.
>
> Best
>
> jared
> SC, CA
>
> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 12:30:38 PM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>
>> Ah, ok.  I did not see the bull bar.  Does Nitto consider this to be an 
>> "off road" bar?  
>>
>> So it requires the nitto faceplater stem, which is ok.  
>>
>> Geez, I can't believe I didn't see this before.  Thanks!
>>
>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:49:35 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>>
>>> Have you seen the bullbar? I have it on my Atlantis and really like it
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/handlebar-nitto-b901raa?srsltid=AfmBOoo21TuxDTc8_5dZM40Q4_DdekPaU69INyKw7NqX6RjQ_0rQZWdr
>>>
>>> Max
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:46:49 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>
>>>> I should have said similar sweep angle and overall extension, which 
>>>> is roughly negative by a few centimeters!
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:41:39 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hello Everyone,
>>>>>
>>>>> I know that Bullmoose has be discussed quite a bit around here.
>>>>>
>>>>> I have the 150mm extension bullmoose from Rivendell.  The rise, 
>>>>> especially on my Hunqapiller with the stem slammed, is a bit too much.
>>>>>
>>>>> Has anyone come up with a stem/bar combination that is both similar to 
>>>>> the sweep of the Bullmoose as well as off road appropariate, but with 
>>>>> much 
>>>>> less overall rise?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks for any suggestions.
>>>>>
>>>>> Eric
>>>>>
>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Alternatives

[Ginz]

I will give Rivendell a call about Waive.

I was pondering the Bull Bar last night and it seems that to match the 
150mm Bull Moose, one would need.a 150mm stem.  So, that's awfully hard 
to match.  

With the Bull Bar and 135mm stem, which is made by Nitto, and lowering the 
bars a bit the reach is similar.

.




On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 4:17:57 PM UTC-4 jaredwilson wrote:

> I've not had an actual Bullmoose to compare directly to.
>
> I would call RivHQ to confirm, but it is my understanding that it's the 
> same, sans moose of course.
>
> Wavie is another valid option, I'm eying them up for another project I'm 
> working on if I can't find a 610 Ahearne Map bar.
>
> Best
>
> jared
>
> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 1:07:50 PM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>
>> Jared,
>>
>> So, it really is the exact same curve as the Bullmoose, right? So, to get 
>> the exact same reach I'd need a 150mm stem, of which I think 135mm is the 
>> max Nitto offers in the faceplater.
>>
>> The Waive could also work I think.  Might even be a little better for 
>> non-trail riding.
>>
>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 3:59:42 PM UTC-4 jaredwilson wrote:
>>
>>> Had a bull bar on my XL Susie, it's a very nice unit and I would 
>>> recommend it to anyone.
>>>
>>> Paired with a Faceplater stem you'll be in good shape.
>>>
>>> Let us know how things transpire.
>>>
>>> Best
>>>
>>> jared
>>> SC, CA
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 12:30:38 PM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>>>
>>>> Ah, ok.  I did not see the bull bar.  Does Nitto consider this to be an 
>>>> "off road" bar?  
>>>>
>>>> So it requires the nitto faceplater stem, which is ok.  
>>>>
>>>> Geez, I can't believe I didn't see this before.  Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:49:35 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Have you seen the bullbar? I have it on my Atlantis and really like it
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/handlebar-nitto-b901raa?srsltid=AfmBOoo21TuxDTc8_5dZM40Q4_DdekPaU69INyKw7NqX6RjQ_0rQZWdr
>>>>>
>>>>> Max
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:46:49 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I should have said similar sweep angle and overall extension, 
>>>>>> which is roughly negative by a few centimeters!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:41:39 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Hello Everyone,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I know that Bullmoose has be discussed quite a bit around here.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have the 150mm extension bullmoose from Rivendell.  The rise, 
>>>>>>> especially on my Hunqapiller with the stem slammed, is a bit too much.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Has anyone come up with a stem/bar combination that is both similar 
>>>>>>> to the sweep of the Bullmoose as well as off road appropariate, but 
>>>>>>> with 
>>>>>>> much less overall rise?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks for any suggestions.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Eric
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Bullmoose Alternatives

[Ginz]

(Apologies if this message is a duplicate. Something went wrong when I 
tried ot post.)

Brent, thatnks for that image. That is super helpful

This is my current setup:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bki5sWeQtfKQaLjW6

If the Bullmose is approximatley 105 degree rise, then I'm guessing a 
Bullbar with Nitto Faceplater 90 Degree and similar effective extension 
will lower the bars roughly 2cm when slammed.That may not be enough and 
I don't think it will look worse, asthetically.a slammed Bullmose looks... 
not bad to me.

Rather than spend $250 on new stem and bars, maybe I should cut the fork by 
15mm and if that is low enough. I hate to do it, but I'm on the smallest 
end of the size range for this 48cm frame and so, why not?  I feel like 
that huge stack of spacers was meant for folks much taller than me.

Ginz



On Tuesday, August 27, 2024 at 11:45:43 AM UTC-4 Brent B wrote:

> The bull bar has a wider bend area which brings the center joint with the 
> stem much closer than the bullmoose's center point. This is just a real 
> quick photoshop mockup, but I overlayed the Whatbars bullmoose image on 
> Riv's bull bar picture and came up with about a 40mm difference in 
> extension to match the grip position:
>
> [image: bullbar stem guesstimate.png]
>
> On Tuesday 27 August 2024 at 08:58:01 UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>
>> I will give Rivendell a call about Waive.
>>
>> I was pondering the Bull Bar last night and it seems that to match the 
>> 150mm Bull Moose, one would need.a 150mm stem.  So, that's awfully hard 
>> to match.  
>>
>> With the Bull Bar and 135mm stem, which is made by Nitto, and lowering 
>> the bars a bit the reach is similar.
>>
>> .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 4:17:57 PM UTC-4 jaredwilson wrote:
>>
>>> I've not had an actual Bullmoose to compare directly to.
>>>
>>> I would call RivHQ to confirm, but it is my understanding that it's the 
>>> same, sans moose of course.
>>>
>>> Wavie is another valid option, I'm eying them up for another project I'm 
>>> working on if I can't find a 610 Ahearne Map bar.
>>>
>>> Best
>>>
>>> jared
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 1:07:50 PM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>>>
>>>> Jared,
>>>>
>>>> So, it really is the exact same curve as the Bullmoose, right? So, to 
>>>> get the exact same reach I'd need a 150mm stem, of which I think 135mm is 
>>>> the max Nitto offers in the faceplater.
>>>>
>>>> The Waive could also work I think.  Might even be a little better for 
>>>> non-trail riding.
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 3:59:42 PM UTC-4 jaredwilson wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Had a bull bar on my XL Susie, it's a very nice unit and I would 
>>>>> recommend it to anyone.
>>>>>
>>>>> Paired with a Faceplater stem you'll be in good shape.
>>>>>
>>>>> Let us know how things transpire.
>>>>>
>>>>> Best
>>>>>
>>>>> jared
>>>>> SC, CA
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 12:30:38 PM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Ah, ok.  I did not see the bull bar.  Does Nitto consider this to be 
>>>>>> an "off road" bar?  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> So it requires the nitto faceplater stem, which is ok.  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Geez, I can't believe I didn't see this before.  Thanks!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:49:35 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Have you seen the bullbar? I have it on my Atlantis and really like 
>>>>>>> it
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> https://www.rivbike.com/products/handlebar-nitto-b901raa?srsltid=AfmBOoo21TuxDTc8_5dZM40Q4_DdekPaU69INyKw7NqX6RjQ_0rQZWdr
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Max
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:46:49 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I should have said similar sweep angle and overall extension, 
>>>>>>>> which is roughly negative by a few centimeters!
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Monday, August 26, 2024 at 2:41:39 PM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Hello Everyone,
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I know that Bullmoose has be discussed quite a bit around here.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I have the 150mm extension bullmoose from Rivendell.  The rise, 
>>>>>>>>> especially on my Hunqapiller with the stem slammed, is a bit too much.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Has anyone come up with a stem/bar combination that is both 
>>>>>>>>> similar to the sweep of the Bullmoose as well as off road 
>>>>>>>>> appropariate, but 
>>>>>>>>> with much less overall rise?
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thanks for any suggestions.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Eric
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>

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Re: [RBW] WTB: 26” tires about 2.0” to 2.2” - mildly knobbie

[Ginz]

Not sure if you saw my reply about the Marathon Mondials.  If interested, 
let me know.

On Monday, September 9, 2024 at 7:45:18 PM UTC-4 nicklin...@gmail.com wrote:

> Consider Continental’s “Double Fighter”. 1.9” with a bit of knobs, but so 
> comfortable on both asphalt & dry dirt. Reasonable price too, in the $28.00 
> each range. 
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Sep 9, 2024, at 9:15 AM, Abe Gardner  wrote:
> > 
> > Want to buy some sorta knobbie tires for a give away bike.
> > 
> > 26” tires X 2” to 2.2” would be ideal, like Big Ben or RaceKing or 
> something in between. 
> > 
> > Got a tricky bike from a neighbor’s garage sale: 1997 Specialized 
> S-Works M2
> > 
> > -- 
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/ED663AAF-8F0D-4706-83CB-CE1B108ADF47%40gmail.com
> .
> > 
> > 
> > I’m not into these Aluminum frames but I like the Mango color so I’m 
> fixing it up to give away / forever loan to someone. I snatched most the 
> great XTR and XT components. 
> > 
> > Located in Napa but could pick up from you in most of the Bay Area. 
> Berkeley or SF or such. 
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > Abe
> > 
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> .
>

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[RBW] FS: Bike Buddy bottle mount

[Ginz]

Here's a blast from the past.

Bike Buddy allows one to mount a large bottle, vacuum bottle, etc to your 
frame's existing bottle mount. If you dislike the look of Voile straps, 
this is for you.

https://www.bikebuddy.co.uk/shop.asp

This is the MK3 version which includes the quick release feature.I may 
have test fit it but never rode with it, Not even once.

$15 shipped in USA.  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Camping bikes

[Ginz]

For an over-nighter, I usually do two rear panniers and something in the 
front -- usually a basket or I strap a something to the bars.  

It's nice to have more capacity than you need because you don't have to be 
so fussy with packing.  Throw stuff in the bike and go!  If packing is too 
tedious for one night, I tend to feel exhausted before I even leave the 
house.  


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[RBW] Tall Arm V-Brakes

[Ginz]

I don’t know of any taller V brakes. This is a well known problem with that 
style rack. I recommend Shimano CX cantis for this situation.

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[RBW] Re: WTB English Rain coat

[Ginz]

For those with the double ventile greenspot, do reserve that for colder 
weather? I generally like to layer under my jacket and use a thinner jacket. I 
almost worry the single greenspot will be too heavy for me, but I guess I have 
thinner jacket for warmer weather. 

I have a ventile dress raincoat so I am somewhat familiar with it.  


Thanks
Eric

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe’s Big Apple is a 10-year old tire design. What’s a newer/better alternative?

[Ginz]

I can say that the tread pattern on my 26x2.35" is different on the one I 
just purchased vs. the one that is 5-8 years old. 

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[RBW] Re: Re-spacing a Phil Wood hub, 126-135

[Ginz]

I also did this but my hub was older and didn't have the field serviceable 
axel.  I mailed it in and they switched the end caps with a press.  Cost me 
not a ton of money, but I don't recall how much.  Email their customer 
service and I bet they can get you set up.


>

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[RBW] Re: Re-spacing a Phil Wood hub, 126-135

[Ginz]

I went from 130 to 135 and recall I did have to redish a little bit because 
they only replace one cap in this scenario. I don’t remember which side. 

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[RBW] Silver shifter upkeep

[Ginz]

I once destroyed one by sneaking the shifter off without loosening the cable 
when swapping brake levers. The metal plate that covers the ratchet came loose 
and it was ruined.  Is that what’s happening in there? They don’t necessarily 
last forever, unfortunately

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[RBW] Re: Help Pimp My Quickbeam

[Ginz]

I think you'd be better off not re-spacing the frame.

The crankset and BB you have, do you know what chainline you get with that 
bottom bracket?  You may have to install it and find out.  I'm guessing 
somewhere around 45mm but 110mm BB sounds wide for a Campy crankset (to 
me).  Trying to achieve that chainline with a 120mm fixed/free hub is tough 
because those hubs are usually a 42mm chainline.That may not seem like 
a big difference, but with fixed chair and a taught chain, it can be a big 
deal.  Since you have an awfully nice crankset and BB, figure out what you 
chainline is (to the inner and outer chainrings, and the center line, if 
possible) and come back with that info.

>From there, the best type of hub can be identified.

If you don't care about fixed gear and just want one singlespeed gear, then 
any 130mm freehub with the cog and spacer kit you mentioned would be very 
good and you could dial in the chainline using the inner or outer chainring 
as you prefer.

Gearing may take some experimentation.  You'd try one ratio, then something 
else, then maybe go back to the original one.  Something like 46/18 might 
be a good start.  I like around 67 gear inches for fixed gear on road.
YMMV.

Ginz


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Re: [RBW] FS: 26" Wheelset - Lesnik built $275 plus lot so new tires.

[Ginz]

What 26” tires to you have? I just ordered a set of marathon plus 2.0”. 

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[RBW] Re: Commuter Tire for Hunq

[Ginz]

I just mounted a set of Marathon Green Guard 26" x 2" on Sun CR-18 rims and 
they and they measure a disappointing 1.75", barely larger than my labeled 
26" x 1.75"s.  

I may sell them (mounted but unridden).  Maybe I should have gone Big Apple 
2" or 2.15"?

That said, I would look at the true specs of the Marathons and make sure 
you are getting the actual size you desire relative to the Big Bens.

Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Cracked Tension Bolt on B17

[Ginz]

Try these folks.  If that part is easily replaceable, they may ship it to 
you.  

https://www.transportcycle.com/frame-shop/brooks-saddle-repair/

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[RBW] Re: bending nitto struts

[Ginz]

I think they show putting them in a vice, covering them with a cloth or 
block of wood and tapping them with a mallet.

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[RBW] Re: Velocity Dyads and 50mm Tires

[Ginz]

For the longest time, the average mtb rim was 18mm.  People ran 2.1" 
knobbies.  Nowadays it sounds like you need a 23mm rim to run a 2" commuter 
tire.  Are things changing?  Were they always wrong?  I dunno!

I have one set of wide-ish rims -- Rhyno Lites.  They have Big Apple 2.35" 
tires on them.  I don't notice much of a difference.  Oh well!

I thought about running 2.5" tires but wondered what incredibly wide rims 
I'd need to do it!

Ginz


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[RBW] Re: Brooks Brown v. Black

[Ginz]

I like black with that frame color.

On Tuesday, June 23, 2020 at 9:14:16 AM UTC-4 Will Ashe wrote:

>
>
>
> Plus 1 on the black. It's a nice contrast with the butternut/mustard frame.
>>
>>
> Will Ashe 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Front Rack for Wald Basket

[Ginz]

Check the iBob group if you are on it. There is the exact same thread running 
this week and someone is selling a few options!

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Re: [RBW] Re: Thoughts on Rivendell cork grips

[Ginz]

 
I would not say the cork grips add comfort.  In fact, I've found the "real" 
cork ones to be less shaped and comfortable than the cheaper "chopped and 
formed" ones than are available everywhere.  And I never ever ride them 
without gloves for grip.

As others have said, ESI silicone grips and Oury (now in lock on version!!) 
are my choices for comfort.  The cork is mostly for looks. 

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[RBW] Tubus Duo on Hunqapillar Fork

[Ginz]

Hi Folks,

Has anyone fit a Tubus Duo on a Hunqapillar 26" fork or similar?  All the 
eyelets and hourglass bosses are in the right place but some spacers would 
be required. Otherwise, the flanges on the rack push against the fork blade 
and could marr or "crush" the tubes.  I would estimate the spacers would 
have to be 2-3mm at all three bolt locations.

Does that seem advisable?  The was some recent discussion of this in the 
forums and I wouldn't hesitate to run a few spacers.  But, I may be unwise.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/WnQDYDUM6SrXjWSc8


Best Regards,
ginz

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[RBW] Re: Bar End Shifter Woes

[Ginz]

I ruined a Silver shifter by removing it while the cable was still on. I got 
away with it a few times but eventually the cover of a ratchet mechanism bent 
and it was toast. If I have to remove one I now always unbolt the cable clamp 
at the derailleur. 

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[RBW] Re: Your Favorite Adhesive for Riv Cork Grips???

[Ginz]

Amazing Goop “houshold” aka “household hogar”.  It is Contact cement. Cork 
breaks up as you remove it but not terribly so. Heat gun would probably help. 

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[RBW] Re: Cantilever brake recommendations

[Ginz]

Shimano cx-50. 

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Re: [RBW] Was the Hunqapillar designed for Albatross bars?

[Ginz]

My recollection is that Hunqapillar top tubes were relatively longer and were 
more for bullmoose and albatross than drop bars.   This was long before the 
super long tubes and super long sweep bars. 

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[RBW] Re: A different Mustache/Albastache set-up?

[Ginz]

You can use Velo orange city levers. 

https://velo-orange.com/collections/brake-levers/products/city-bike-brakes-levers

Inverse levers would also work if you aren’t using bar end shifters. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Adapters to make SPD pedals into clip and strap pedals?

[Ginz]

I had the MKS Urban Step-in B and Lambda combination for a while.  These 
are my thoughts:

I really did not like the Step-in B pedals.  I am a Time ATAC lover and 
that fact that the MKS used the same cleats was a huge plus.  However, I 
found the break-in period for the Step-in B pedals was incredibly long.  I 
messed with the spring tension.  I was using well broken in cleats.  But it 
took a long, long time before the the clip-in was smooth.  At the 
beginning, I had to jam my foot down, forward, backward, every which way to 
engage the cleat.   Once that issue resolved itself over ~20 rides, they 
were better.  But my goal was to swap between mtb'y pedals and flat 
pedals.  On the trail, the engagement was no where near as nice as my Time 
ATAC.  So, I just gave up and sold the setup.

That said, if your goal is to ride roads and occasionally swap pedals, its 
fine.  Maybe not perfect, but fine.   One thing you can do is find the 
discontinued Non-Ezy version of the MKS Step-in B pedals for cheap on eBay 
and try them out.  Actually, I may have a set missing the dust cap if you 
are interested (I bought them for parts).

I wish they had partnered with Time and made the basic ATAC pedal with the 
MKS Ezy Superior Axle.  I would have kept that setup forever.

On Thursday, June 3, 2021 at 2:55:09 AM UTC-4 exliontamer wrote:

> Not sure about the SPD quality difference. Also, I realized the SPD rinko 
> system might use different adapters. 
>
> On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 8:32:31 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Thanks; I've thought of these. Questions: Does the system materially 
>> increase Q? Is the MKS spd pedal anywhere near as good as mid and upper 
>> level Shimano SPDs -- PD540, XT, XTR?
>>
>> Actually, ~$275 for MKS SPDs and Urbans and shipping isn't too bad, but 
>> only if the MKS spds are good pedals.
>>
>> Thanks again!
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 3:10 PM exliontamer  wrote:
>>
>>> These rink systems work and are pretty sick, they're just expensive. 
>>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/product-category/components/pedals/
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 3:50:33 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 Is there any well made, well functioning adapter to make an SPD pedal 
 into a platform that will take a standard Christophe clip? Rather than 
 swapping out my SPDs for quills, this might be the best solution for 
 merely 
 occasional street shoe riding.

 Thanks.


 -- 

 ---
 Patrick Moore
 Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum

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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Adapters to make SPD pedals into clip and strap pedals?

[Ginz]

Ok, I should have researched first.I cannot comment on the "SPD" 
pedal.  My feedback would only related to "Step-In A" pedal that Rene Herse 
does not carry!





On Thursday, June 3, 2021 at 10:15:41 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:

> I had the MKS Urban Step-in B and Lambda combination for a while.  These 
> are my thoughts:
>
> I really did not like the Step-in B pedals.  I am a Time ATAC lover and 
> that fact that the MKS used the same cleats was a huge plus.  However, I 
> found the break-in period for the Step-in B pedals was incredibly long.  I 
> messed with the spring tension.  I was using well broken in cleats.  But it 
> took a long, long time before the the clip-in was smooth.  At the 
> beginning, I had to jam my foot down, forward, backward, every which way to 
> engage the cleat.   Once that issue resolved itself over ~20 rides, they 
> were better.  But my goal was to swap between mtb'y pedals and flat 
> pedals.  On the trail, the engagement was no where near as nice as my Time 
> ATAC.  So, I just gave up and sold the setup.
>
> That said, if your goal is to ride roads and occasionally swap pedals, its 
> fine.  Maybe not perfect, but fine.   One thing you can do is find the 
> discontinued Non-Ezy version of the MKS Step-in B pedals for cheap on eBay 
> and try them out.  Actually, I may have a set missing the dust cap if you 
> are interested (I bought them for parts).
>
> I wish they had partnered with Time and made the basic ATAC pedal with the 
> MKS Ezy Superior Axle.  I would have kept that setup forever.
>
> On Thursday, June 3, 2021 at 2:55:09 AM UTC-4 exliontamer wrote:
>
>> Not sure about the SPD quality difference. Also, I realized the SPD rinko 
>> system might use different adapters. 
>>
>> On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 8:32:31 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks; I've thought of these. Questions: Does the system materially 
>>> increase Q? Is the MKS spd pedal anywhere near as good as mid and upper 
>>> level Shimano SPDs -- PD540, XT, XTR?
>>>
>>> Actually, ~$275 for MKS SPDs and Urbans and shipping isn't too bad, but 
>>> only if the MKS spds are good pedals.
>>>
>>> Thanks again!
>>>
>>> On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 3:10 PM exliontamer  wrote:
>>>
>>>> These rink systems work and are pretty sick, they're just expensive. 
>>>> https://www.renehersecycles.com/product-category/components/pedals/
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, June 2, 2021 at 3:50:33 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Is there any well made, well functioning adapter to make an SPD pedal 
>>>>> into a platform that will take a standard Christophe clip? Rather than 
>>>>> swapping out my SPDs for quills, this might be the best solution for 
>>>>> merely 
>>>>> occasional street shoe riding.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>>
>>>>> ---
>>>>> Patrick Moore
>>>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/27e254cb-ecd6-43fa-b974-0439d231b078n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/27e254cb-ecd6-43fa-b974-0439d231b078n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: seatstay-sized nitro p clamp.

[Ginz]

I have a pair of 3/4" but I think that's too big unless your stays are 
big.  If not, let me know.

On Monday, June 7, 2021 at 12:16:26 PM UTC-4 S. Greco wrote:

> Mc-Master Carr is the best source for stuff like this. They have just 
> about any size, and you can get them in stainless as well:
>
> https://www.mcmaster.com/p-clamps/
>
> On Saturday, June 5, 2021 at 7:53:54 PM UTC-4 Andrew Turner wrote:
>
>> Sorry for the typos. Mobile. NITTO*
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, June 5, 2021 at 5:53:04 PM UTC-6 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>>> If anyone's got one they'd care to sell me I'm in the need for one to 
>>> make a diy frame pump peg. Cheers! 
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus owners - what would you mount to the top of the fork blades

[Ginz]

A Nitto Mark's rack can be situated so that offset stays are parallel to 
the ground and bolted to the top of the fork crown.  I tried it once and it 
made the rack ride very high.

I'm not sure what else can be done, but those bosses have been on forks for 
quite a few years now.

On Tuesday, July 6, 2021 at 9:15:28 AM UTC-4 Jay LePree wrote:

> Hi all:
>
> I am super impressed with the Platypus.  An extra nod to Analogue cycles 
> who selected/recommended the parts and did an excellent job building it up 
> for me.  Analoque is a top notch dealer. 
>
> I had a question.  What accessories would mount to the top of the fork 
> blades?  (I have M5 allan nuts in holes now.) 
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jay 
> Demarest, NJ
>

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[RBW] Re: Rapid rise polarizing

[Ginz]

I have and still use rapid rise on several bikes.  I thought the 
"disadvantage" was that up-shifts were slower.  From a race and performance 
point of view, up-shifts should be faster.  You need to be able to shift up 
while you hammer.

I finally gave in and put a 2x10 on my hardtail and the rapid rise went 
bye-bye.  To this day, I am still confused when I shift.

Aside from that, it's a tough change to get one's mind around.  It would be 
like telling everyone to swap their brakes left and right -- worse 
actually.  I think it comes down to "why change."



On Tuesday, July 13, 2021 at 11:39:34 AM UTC-4 Collin A wrote:

> I'd imagine everyone's experience is slightly different...but I quite like 
> my RR XTR RD mounted on my appaloosa to bar end silver2 shifters. I got a 
> used one on ebay in the before times for a fair price and with a replaced 
> set of jockey/pulley wheels its been fine for about 1000 km.
>
> I've only been friction/bar end shifting for about 5 years now, so I don't 
> have decades of muscle memory to rewrite, but it is quite intuitive to 
> me...at least it is when you also have a FD, so to go up a gear the bar 
> ends get pushed in the same direction.
>
> I've also noticed its a wee bit easier to shift down under a bit of load 
> and the derailleur tends to land better (i.e. less precision needed in the 
> shift) in those events. But that's all perception and cannot be quantified, 
> so take it with a grain of salt. 
>
> Cheers, 
> Collin, its only 90 today, in Sacramento
>
> On Monday, July 12, 2021 at 10:08:30 PM UTC-7 Sam Perez wrote:
>
>> Hey guys, 
>> Why is there so little info on rapid rise RD and why is it so polarizing. 
>> Sources include bike snob grants blog and random internet sources. 
>> Takeaways were finicky and needing frequent adjustment but also great 
>> concept and easy down shifting. Any experience thoughts insights? 
>>
>> Thanks
>
>

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[RBW] Tumbleweed Rack on 26" fork -- Hunqapilllar?

[Ginz]

Hello,

Has anyone tried to fit the Tumbleweed T-Rack or Pannier Rack (355mm deck 
height?) on a Hunqapillar or similar 26" fork using the bosses on top of 
the fork crown?

I'm wondering if that would work.  Some bending of the rack stays might be 
required by I can't tell if the stays' mounting block would be at the right 
height.

I have a Nitto 32F on there but might try something new.

Thanks for any advice.

Eric

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Re: [RBW] Tumbleweed Rack on 26" fork -- Hunqapilllar?

[Ginz]

Thanks, I hadn't considered the spacing.

I'm trying to find something minimal for the front of the bike that:
Doesn't interfere with the first crown (I'm using the Tektro cable 
hander), and
Doesn't use draw bolts on the vertical stays (just my preference).

If the Tumbleweeds come back in stock, I may give it a go.

Best Regards,
Eric


On Wednesday, July 28, 2021 at 6:01:18 PM UTC-4 Collin A wrote:

> Just keep in mind you'd have to bend the rack to fit the 100mm+ dropouts 
> rather than the 135mm+ drop outs in the rear.
>
> Collin in, its smoky again, Sacramento
>
> On Wednesday, July 28, 2021 at 10:43:01 AM UTC-7 joshm...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Eric,
>>
>> I emailed Daniel that same question and this was his response: 
>>
>> "You should have no problem with clearance above your tire, but there’s 
>> no real downside to having the rack that’s a little tall other than 
>> aesthetics. The difference between the two rack sizes is only about an 
>> inch, we mainly do the two sizes to accommodate bikes with big wheels and 
>> low rack mounts where there might be clearance issues with the tire. "
>>
>> Regarding the says, I trimmed mine and it looks great. 
>>
>> Josh in NYC
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 12:52 PM Ginz  wrote:
>>
>>> Hello,
>>>
>>> Has anyone tried to fit the Tumbleweed T-Rack or Pannier Rack (355mm 
>>> deck height?) on a Hunqapillar or similar 26" fork using the bosses on top 
>>> of the fork crown?
>>>
>>> I'm wondering if that would work.  Some bending of the rack stays might 
>>> be required by I can't tell if the stays' mounting block would be at the 
>>> right height.
>>>
>>> I have a Nitto 32F on there but might try something new.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any advice.
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/28af37ce-b13b-4f43-ace9-e9c855c17a4en%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Tumbleweed Rack on 26" fork -- Hunqapilllar?

[Ginz]

Drew,

Could I trouble you for a measurement on the T-Rack?  From the eyelet on 
the bottom of the say to the center of the upper stay?  Said, differently, 
how far below the rack deck is the eyelet on the upper stays?  I'm trying 
to figure out if the 355mm version would allow the upper stays to hit the 
bosses on the fork crown properly or if they would be too low.  Too high is 
ok, i can bend them.  Too low could be a problem.  

Thanks!



On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 11:51:44 AM UTC-4 Drw wrote:

> I have a t-rack on the front of my 650b Atlantis, attached to the top of 
> the fork crown. no issues setting it up and a really great rack. You'll 
> need to bend the bottom a little bit or use some spacers, but its not a big 
> deal. I have basket on mine and then use the mounts for touring. I think it 
> really splits the difference between minimal and super functional in the 
> smartest way possible.  
>
> On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 7:37:12 AM UTC-7 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> FYI:  I was fortunate to purchase and receive a Tumbleweed Mini Pannier 
>> Rack recently.  Included *with *the rack was a very nice set of mounting 
>> hardware which included very nice black alloy spacers (Six total -   4 x 
>> 2.5mm thick and 2 x 5mm thick).  I mounted my rack on the rear of my bike, 
>> but I can see where one may choose to use the spacers to mount it on the 
>> front, reducing the *squeeze* on the rack legs / dropout interface.
>>
>> Daniel really thought things out and I am very impressed with the quality 
>> / features of the rack along with the included hardware.  One last detail: 
>> from the pictures on his website, one could see that the Mini Pannier Rack 
>> does have a lighting tang.  I couldn't tell if the tang has a single hole 
>> or two holes for a two-bolt Busch & Muller rear LED tail light (such as the 
>> Toplight Line).  I can confirm yes, it indeed does and it is properly 
>> spaced for a perfect fit [when will NItto include this feature on their 
>> racks?].
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, July 29, 2021 at 6:08:51 AM UTC-7 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, I hadn't considered the spacing.
>>>
>>> I'm trying to find something minimal for the front of the bike that:
>>> Doesn't interfere with the first crown (I'm using the Tektro cable 
>>> hander), and
>>> Doesn't use draw bolts on the vertical stays (just my preference).
>>>
>>> If the Tumbleweeds come back in stock, I may give it a go.
>>>
>>> Best Regards,
>>> Eric
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 28, 2021 at 6:01:18 PM UTC-4 Collin A wrote:
>>>
>>>> Just keep in mind you'd have to bend the rack to fit the 100mm+ 
>>>> dropouts rather than the 135mm+ drop outs in the rear.
>>>>
>>>> Collin in, its smoky again, Sacramento
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, July 28, 2021 at 10:43:01 AM UTC-7 joshm...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Eric,
>>>>>
>>>>> I emailed Daniel that same question and this was his response: 
>>>>>
>>>>> "You should have no problem with clearance above your tire, but 
>>>>> there’s no real downside to having the rack that’s a little tall other 
>>>>> than 
>>>>> aesthetics. The difference between the two rack sizes is only about an 
>>>>> inch, we mainly do the two sizes to accommodate bikes with big wheels and 
>>>>> low rack mounts where there might be clearance issues with the tire. "
>>>>>
>>>>> Regarding the says, I trimmed mine and it looks great. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Josh in NYC
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Jul 28, 2021, 12:52 PM Ginz  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hello,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Has anyone tried to fit the Tumbleweed T-Rack or Pannier Rack (355mm 
>>>>>> deck height?) on a Hunqapillar or similar 26" fork using the bosses on 
>>>>>> top 
>>>>>> of the fork crown?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm wondering if that would work.  Some bending of the rack stays 
>>>>>> might be required by I can't tell if the stays' mounting block would be 
>>>>>> at 
>>>>>> the right height.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have a Nitto 32F on there but might try something 

[RBW] FS: Nitto Dirt Drop Stem 8cm

[Ginz]

Hello,

I have a new in the sealed bag Nitto Dirt Drop stem, 8cm, 26.0.

Bought it from Rivendell last year and never used it.

$68 shipped in CONUS. 

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[RBW] Re: Supernova E3 pro2...but dont want to run the rear light?

[Ginz]

Coil up the extra wire, zip tie it to the other wire, anything it takes to 
just hide it.  And, like the others said, tape the two conductors so they 
cannot ever touch each other.

You never know if you'll want to use it in the future.  Maybe you won't 
like the light and want to sell it. Or, maybe you'll decide to run a rear 
light because they barely weigh anything!

I have the original E3 and my only complaint is that they don't have a 
fender mounted tail light.  I thought I saw a fender mount accessory at 
some point but I could never find it again. Maybe I imagined it.

On Tuesday, June 21, 2022 at 2:38:08 PM UTC-4 Pam Bikes wrote:

> I'm not sure why you don't want to wire the rear taillight.  Super easy.  
> Takes 5 min and some zip ties.  I love it.  Never have to worry about any 
> lights or recharging.  I run the wire along the underside of the frame and 
> up the rack.  You never see it.  I'm not mechanically inclined and I can do 
> it.  So you can too.  Always on too so I'll never forget to turn it on or 
> off.  But whatever makes you happy.  
>
> On Sunday, June 19, 2022 at 8:30:45 PM UTC-4 Erik Wright wrote:
>
>> Same thing over here. I picked up the same light off this list about a 
>> month back. I took it down to a shop to wire it up and the mechanics just 
>> wrapped the rear wire around the light mount a bunch and threw a zip tie on 
>> there to hold it in place. Seems to be doing the trick just fine for me.
>>
>> Erik, Philly
>> On Saturday, June 18, 2022 at 5:46:15 PM UTC-4 Ian A wrote:
>>
>>> Just insulate the taillight connections with tape (or better 
>>> heat-shrink) so that the connections don't make contact with each other or 
>>> the frame. Then just connect the front light in the normal way and you are 
>>> ready to go.
>>>
>>> If you were running an incandescent bulb headlight, there could be a 
>>> concern that the headlight could receive too much voltage with no taillight 
>>> wired in. With modern LED headlights, this is not a concern.
>>>
>>> IanA Alberta Canada
>>>
>>> On Saturday, June 18, 2022 at 1:51:55 PM UTC-6 jinxed wrote:
>>>
 Lighting is one area that completely baffles me. Well, anything 
 involving electricity for that matter, so I generally rely on those with 
 more experience lest I end up cooking myself or the electronics.

 Here's what I have on hand to work with. SP SV-8 front hub, Supernova 
 E3 2 pro front light, Nitto rack or equivalent, rechargeable rear LED of 
 some sort. Fork has provisions for internal wiring hub to light, frame has 
 no considerations.

 Most of my riding is during daylight. When I need a light, it will 
 primarily be off road and for purposes of seeing, not being seen. I have 
 several extremely capable rechargeable rear lights for use when needed, so 
 I don't want to permanently route cables to the back of the bike. That 
 said, the E3 light has dedicated rear wiring I need to deal with. Can the 
 rear wires be "unplugged" or are they soldered in? I don't want to ruin 
 the 
 light by clipping them off. I know they're not absolutely needed for the 
 front to operate since I've never had a rear light attached and it worked 
 great.

 Any better wisdom on dealing with the wiring? Am I better off ditching 
 the E3 and going with a "simpler" front only model? If that's the case, 
 any 
 recommendations for something that would suit the need, preferably in 
 silver?




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Re: [RBW] Do you Rapid Rise? (Share pics and thoughts)

[Ginz]

I have always done rapid rise and I find that it provides the most benefit 
with indexed shifting.  Beware of switching to rapid rise later in life.  
You may be permanently confused  about which way to shift, whether you use 
STI, rapid fire, grip shift, or thumbies.  With bar ends or any friction 
setup, I find I can adapt easily between rapid and non-rapid rise for some 
reason.  



On Tuesday, August 23, 2022 at 10:04:51 AM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:

> Ha! Yeah I'm a little excessive with my cable run, its been a minute since 
> I set this up. Haven't gotten caught on anything yet! 
>
> as far as the cassette goes, its a 9 spd shimano xt, 11-34/36 (can't 
> remember exactly how big it is and I'm away from the bike, but in the 30's 
> somewhere... I wanna say its the 36). I'm probably maxing out what the 
> derailer is capable of in terms of size, I remember being a little 
> concerned if it would work when I first put it on but its been smooth and 
> no problems. 
>
> Also on the front end I'm using the riv silver jis square taper wide/low 
> (38/24) double crankset, which I've been very pleased with as well both 
> aesthetically and functionally. 
>
> -Stephen
> On Tuesday, August 23, 2022 at 7:47:00 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Stephen, that's the same XTR I had and parted with. What size is your 
>> cassette? 
>>
>> I agree, my first ride with the rapid rise was not a religious 
>> experience. 
>>
>> I think you can run a shorter piece of housing back there. I believe the 
>> pivoting cable stop that feeds the cable pulley is designed to minimize the 
>> run of cable and housing over the dropout. Eben Weiss/Bike Snob has the 
>> same derailer as yours and posted something about running a longer, then 
>> shorter piece of housing but now I can't find it. I did find a picture, 
>> though. 
>>
>> [image: Screen Shot 2022-08-23 at 7.35.14 AM.png]
>> On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 9:49:29 PM UTC-4 Stephen wrote:
>>
>>> [image: Screen Shot 2022-08-22 at 9.41.11 PM.png]
>>> I got this xtr at a swap meet last year and have been a big fan. Before 
>>> I was running a deore like the one in russ' video. This is on my 2020 
>>> appaloosa with riversed silver thumbie shifters currently set up on 
>>> bullmooses but I also swap out to loscos sometimes. I'm a big fan of it, 
>>> though I'd agree with path less pedaled in saying its not mind blowing. I 
>>> think it shifts great, I love the style of this era xtr. Haven't noticed 
>>> any issues yet in terms of the spring not giving a snappy enough shift, but 
>>> I definitely have had the beneficial ghost shift going uphill in the 
>>> mountains since installing.
>>>
>>> Stephen
>>> On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 9:20:47 PM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
 JJ thanks for sharing your experiences across several RR mechs, that's 
 a lot of sampling. Sounds like you've found cage movement that works for 
 you! Dig the pic as well, thank you. I agree the red decal is a bit much. 
 Perhaps I'll scrape it off. 

 Johnny, thanks for the link, that is an in-depth look at derailers I'd 
 kind of forgotten about. It's a long one so here are some tidbits about 
 cost and arrival, which I'm sure will change:

 *6. How much will it cost?*

 a. We don't know. Ideally we'll have a fancy first model, the SILVER 
 OM-1; and then cheaper other models, maybe OM-2, OM-3. Maybe $300 for a 
 fancy, and $30 for a plain? We have zero idea, but a derailer too 
 expensive 
 to buy is no fun and misses the point; and a super cheap derailer that 
 doesn't account for the cost of developing and making it is ... not gonna 
 happen. We'll just see.

 *11. When?*

 a. We're hoping the fancy by Spring 2023, and the plain by Fall 2023.

 On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 8:00:40 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:

> Riv is indeed making different tiers. I believe Grant said he wanted 
> the top level to be around $300 but a plain jane low level version for 
> something like $30.
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/grant-petersens-blog/late-may-silver-is-a-bugger-and-the-last-good-looking-rear-derailer
>
> On Monday, August 22, 2022 at 7:40:55 PM UTC-4 J J wrote:
>
>> I've been exclusively running low normal for a few years. Here's a 
>> pic of the XT M770 on my Hunqapillar. When I first started using Rapid 
>> Rise 
>> I had a few muscle memory misfires (getting the opposite of what I 
>> wanted 
>> when I moved the shift lever). It lasted a couple of weeks, but then it 
>> was 
>> like a flipping a switch in my brain and motor coordination. The logic 
>> just 
>> made so much sense, especially the consistency in left and right 
>> shifting, 
>> easier in one direction, harder in the other, on both sides. I run them 
>> with friction shifters only. It's like second nature.
>>
>> I've tried XTR 970, 960, 950 se

[RBW] Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

Hi Everyone,

Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with the 
thumb pods on the Albatross?  

Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
a pain)

The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
might be time for a change.

I'm thinking about:
Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons

I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
works for me?!

I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...

Thanks for any thoughts!

Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

Hi Garth,

I'm thinking of thumbies down by the grip.

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Ginz,
> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>
>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>> Shifters. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>
>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
>>> Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
>>> then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
>>> a pain)
>>>
>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>>> might be time for a change.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about:
>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>
>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
>>> works for me?!
>>>
>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>
>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>
>>> Ginz
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips and 
the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to make 
a change. Need more squish.

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey Ginz,
> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>
>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>> Shifters. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>
>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>
>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the Albatross.  
>>> Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with Silver bar ends, 
>>> then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled myself (which is 
>>> a pain)
>>>
>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>>> might be time for a change.
>>>
>>> I'm thinking about:
>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>
>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup that 
>>> works for me?!
>>>
>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers on 
>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" and 
>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>
>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>
>>> Ginz
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

I should also mention that I'm perfectly happy with the bar end shifters on 
the Albatross.  It's just that finding a grip that works with bar end 
shifters, other than channeled cork, is difficult.

I've seen the photos where ESI silicone or Oury has been stretched over the 
cable housing but eh... it seems a bit experimental.  

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:21:05 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:

> Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips and 
> the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to make 
> a change. Need more squish.
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hey Ginz,
>> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and really 
>> like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially with 
>> your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that explains it 
>> very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently running bar ends 
>> and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them back. I also run 
>> ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>>> Shifters. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>>
>>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE with 
>>>> the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>>
>>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the 
>>>> Albatross.  Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with 
>>>> Silver bar ends, then Misha's, then back to the originals that I channeled 
>>>> myself (which is a pain)
>>>>
>>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  It 
>>>> might be time for a change.
>>>>
>>>> I'm thinking about:
>>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>>
>>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup 
>>>> that 
>>>> works for me?!
>>>>
>>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers 
>>>> on 
>>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" 
>>>> and 
>>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>>
>>>> Ginz
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Albatross with Silver Thumbies

[Ginz]

Laing,

Very interesting!  Maybe those Dia Compe's covered with some ESI silicone 
tape or similar.

Are they hard plastic? Soft?  

Thanks,
Ginz

On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:36:04 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> Dia Compe makes these, for end mount reversed brake levers, but can be 
> used for shifters. I have even mounted grips over them for even more 
> diameter and cushion.
> [image: DC188-GRIP-BR-575x380.jpg]
>
> Laing
>
>
> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:29:28 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>
>> I should also mention that I'm perfectly happy with the bar end shifters 
>> on the Albatross.  It's just that finding a grip that works with bar end 
>> shifters, other than channeled cork, is difficult.
>>
>> I've seen the photos where ESI silicone or Oury has been stretched over 
>> the cable housing but eh... it seems a bit experimental.  
>>
>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:21:05 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks, I guess I'll give it a try.  I LOVE the idea of the cork grips 
>>> and the shape, but they are just not working for me anymore and I need to 
>>> make a change. Need more squish.
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 11:04:37 AM UTC-4 lwt...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hey Ginz,
>>>> I've run albatross bars bars with the Silver 2s mounted inside and 
>>>> really like it. You end up shifting up with your thumbs and down partially 
>>>> with your finger around on the outside of the bar. Not sure if that 
>>>> explains it very well but I think you'd like it. In fact I'm currently 
>>>> running bar ends and as soon as I get some time I'm going to switch them 
>>>> back. I also run ESI super chunky's and really like the whole set up. 
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 8:53:33 AM UTC-6 Garth wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Like this Ginz ?  I've rode with like this for some 10 years. I can't 
>>>>> speak to those shifters, only the position. Mine are ye ol' Suntour Power 
>>>>> Shifters. 
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, August 29, 2022 at 9:45:14 AM UTC-4 Ginz wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Everyone,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Does anyone have experience with Silver 1 shifters mounted INSIDE 
>>>>>> with the thumb pods on the Albatross?  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yesterday, I think I fell out of love with cork grips on the 
>>>>>> Albatross.  Over the years I've used the original channeled cork with 
>>>>>> Silver bar ends, then Misha's, then back to the originals that I 
>>>>>> channeled 
>>>>>> myself (which is a pain)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The cork stuff is just so hard! My palms are starting to get sore.  
>>>>>> It might be time for a change.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm thinking about:
>>>>>> Silver Thumb Pods with the Silver 1s using the INSIDE mount method
>>>>>> ESI Extra Chunky or perhaps Oury Lock-Ons
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I might also try the Wave bar, but I have several other bikes set up 
>>>>>> similarly so... maybe that's just silly or maybe that's just the setup 
>>>>>> that 
>>>>>> works for me?!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I've used Microshift thumbs and Suntour XCD mounted on the top of mtb 
>>>>>> bars.  I'm just wondering if my thumbs are strong enough for the Silvers 
>>>>>> on 
>>>>>> the Albatross mounted inside.  Can my thumbs really pull the lever "up" 
>>>>>> and 
>>>>>> still find a gear in friction mode? It seems difficult...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for any thoughts!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ginz
>>>>>>
>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Framesaver Time?

[Ginz]

That or you spilled lunch on your fender!Since it is the end of
winter, may as well do an overhaul, right?  Can't go wrong with a
little Framesaver.

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[RBW] Re: How are those winter projects coming?

[Ginz]

Not too well.  The Hunqa frame is still in the box.  I'm in that mode
of competing priorities and lack of space for more bikes.

As for freewheels, and not to derail this thread, I would gladly move
to cassettes if a good quality 8sp could be had at a reasonable price.

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[RBW] Re: Rockapillar....Bombalized....Hunqa Hopper?

[Ginz]

Sounds fantastic!

What is your source for skin wall mtb tires?

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[RBW] Re: Possible stripped threads on frame ... what to do?

[Ginz]

Yes, it is probably worth taking the bolt out because, eventually,
you'll have to deal with it.

You may have simply peeled the threads off of the bolt.  Either way,
it's not a huge problem to fix so don't worry too much!!

On Apr 23, 5:28 pm, charlie  wrote:
> Use a slightly longer bolt with a nut and lock washer.put the nut
> on the outside so it won't rub on the chain etc. if its at the dropout
> area. That is one cheap way to do it. I'd try to back the bolt out and
> inspect the threads then maybe run a tap though it to clean out any
> paint plus freshen the threads. Use a new bolt also if its stretched
> or damaged. You might have damaged the bolt and not the frame
> threading making it an easy fix.
>
> On Apr 23, 1:57 pm, Wally  wrote:
>
>
>
> > Hello!
> > I was installing a rack on my A. Homer Hilsen, and tightening down the
> > right-side strut on the frame, when I felt it all sort of give. The
> > bolt seems to be stable, but I am concerned that I may have stripped
> > the threads on the frame.
>
> > What should I do about this?
>
> > Thanks for your help and advice.
> > Wally

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[RBW] Re: Anyone else have trouble measuring their PBH?

[Ginz]

You must not be pulling up hard enough andwell off to the
side, if you know what I mean.

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[RBW] Re: My new Custom Rivendell Mixte

[Ginz]

Your bike is a stunner!  It is interesting that Rivendell let's a bike
like that go out the door without pasting photos all over the website
and promoting it.  Humble, indeed!!


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[RBW] Re: bars for a simpleone?

[Ginz]

I'm not a fan of drops, either. My arms are too short. On a
singlespeed/fixed gear, I want something wide for leverage.  If you go
with a flared drop like the On One Midge, be aware that you will have
to be stretched out and on the hooks to take advantage of the bars
width when standing and stoping on the pedals!  It is (if I recall
correctly) must narrorwer at the brake hoods than a super-wide Nitto
drop bar.

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[RBW] Re: Front derailer for 48-38-24: Shimano, Campy, IRD?

[Ginz]

I'm using the IRD with a Silver bar end shifter and I find that it
takes an awful lot of force to shift to the big cog.  I literally tore
a ligament in my thumb on it.  Anyone else had success increasing
leverage of the cable's pull?

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[RBW] Re: Front derailer for 48-38-24: Shimano, Campy, IRD?

[Ginz]

Oh, and I'm running a 26/36/46 and other than the above issue, the IRD
shifts perfectly.

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[RBW] Re: Pannier Anchor for Nitto R-15

[Ginz]

Thomas,

Thanks for pointing out the lack of bungee hook. I would have
completely overlooked that.  I also like that rack and maybe I would
make a small bungee hook from a piece of scrap metal.

How about some photos with your TourSacks installed!!

ginz

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[RBW] Re: Front derailer for 48-38-24: Shimano, Campy, IRD?

[Ginz]

Steve,

Sorry, I wasn't clear.  I hurt my thumb shifting to the big
chainring.  I had a habit of grabbing the bar end shifter and prying
with my thumb like a can opener.

Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Front derailer for 48-38-24: Shimano, Campy, IRD?

[Ginz]

Since I need a braze-on front der. that will work with a 26/36/46, I
ordered an old, cheap Shimano from eBay.  I swear that the lever arm
(near the cable anchor) on my IRD der. is ironically not providing
enough leverage when combined with the Silver shifter.  I'll report
back on this combo in a few days.

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[RBW] Re: Stem swap-my DD for your TD?

[Ginz]

Steve,

Is that a 48cm?  I had the same exact problem with my 48cm XO-2.  The
headtube was too short for a dirt drop and I couldn't get enough
height out of it!  I'm now a believer in headtube extensions.

Great looking bike, btw.


Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Davinci splitters for cockpit swap

[Ginz]

Thomas,

Your page is great -- lots of useful information there.  Also, I like
the Kevin's bag on the front of the bike.  I might try that.

Do you know off hand which stems (model and length) you are using with
each handlebar?  It would be interesting to compare the exact change
in effective cockpit length and bar height with your change in comfort
level.

Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Front derailer for 48-38-24: Shimano, Campy, IRD?

[Ginz]

Reporting back:

I found an old but lightly used Shimano XCE braze-on front der. on
eBay.  I swapped it for the IRD Alpina-d and, sure enough, the action
of my Silver shifter is a bit easier on my thumb.  Perhaps the lever
arm provides more leverage or the spring is a bit lighter.  Either
way, I'm sticking with the XCE. I imagine that if indexing,
specifically with brifters or rapid fire, the difference would be less
noticeable if at all.

If I can find a few more XCE's or similar to stock pile, I'll probably
unload my IRD's here!

Ginz

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[RBW] Re: Torque Spec's

[Ginz]

I would love to know the correct torque specs on brake cable anchor
bolts.  I seem to always gall them out.  I just don't want that cable
to break loose!

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[RBW] Re: SKS Fenders have their place in my world

[Ginz]

Agreed, in my book, SKS are the standard.  The metal fenders are
beautiful but I'm afraid I'll bend them to their ruin.  Also, there's
the SKS quick release clip with is a feature I enjoy.

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Bottom bracket size ?

[Ginz]

It won't depend so much on the frame as it will on your rear hub and
cassette or freewheel.  Assuming you have a 135mm hub that is,
presumably a 9speed or 8speed freehub, a 113mm is probably the best
choice.  If you are using a 7sp or 8sp freewheel hub, not as likely
given the 135mm spacing, tell us the exact hub you are using and I'm
sure someone here will have the answer.

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[RBW] Re: HS

[Ginz]

To me, brazing a handle to the seat tube is in the "whack-job"
category.  A triangular frame bag is a possibility.

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Bottom bracket size ?

[Ginz]

Well...interesting choice of hub.  I have the same hub on my bike.
However, mine is an older model from the early 90's.  I believe I
measured the chainline at 42.5mm.  Your's may be a bit different,
though it is most likley 45mm. If you use the Sugino with a 110mm,
that ought to give you a 45mm chainline in front, as well. Even if
your hub and freewheel yield 42.5, it is close enough.  With a 9speed
or 8speed cassette, you start to get further away because those are
generally a 47.5mm chainline.  However, if you are using friction
shifting (and I hope you are!!), especially in the front, it should
all work fine.  The biggest concern is the chain rubbing the front
derailluer in a indexed setup.  If your chainline isn't perfect, you
may end up with that annoying rub in certain gear combos.

As far as chainstay clearence, I doubt that you'll have any issues
with the 110mm but you may want to email Riv to be certain.  My Hunq'a
frame is still in the box at the moment so I'm not sure either. :)

Ginz

On Jun 20, 11:54 am, Garth  wrote:
> Hi Ginz,  I currently am using 135mm Phil 7sp FW hubs with multiple
> sets of wheels.  I may go to a 9sp. cassette one day, but I don't see
> what difference that would make regarding the BB length. If you have
> further thoughts on this, please do share!   I'd use the same 110mm
> Tange for the Bombadil if I ever did get some 9 speed hubs. I'm
> considering a Hunqapillar or a Sam frame frame currently. I know the
> Sam can use the 110 also, and it would be great if the Hunq could use
> it also so I'd only need to stock a 110mm BB size for all my bikes.  I
> always considered BB length a chainring clearance of the chainstay
> issue, not a hub issue.
>
> On my early production Bombadil I have a 45-46mm chainline with the
> 24/36/48 XD and 110mm Tange cartridge BB, clearance for the rings is
> just right. I was told by Riv on the later Bombadils, they required a
> 115mm BB. I was hoping the Hunqapillars would take a 110mm and not a
> 115mm like the later Bombadils, hence my question.

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[RBW] Re: HS

[Ginz]

Chaincase.  I would still put on two rings and shift with a big stick!

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar Bottom bracket size ?

[Ginz]

I never thought of using a shorter spindle to get a better
(straighter) angle between the middle ring and the big cogs.  That's
where I spend most of my time. :)

That makes a lot of sense!

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[RBW] Re: HS

[Ginz]

Great idea.  The photoshoppers are now hard at work adding triple diag-
a-tubes, invert-a-tubes and xris-xross-tubes!


On Jun 22, 4:24 am, charlie  wrote:
> Just have a cobbled together gag bike made up to freak everyone out
> withthen reveal the actual bicycle.  But the gag bike has to work
> and you must ride it. Maybe a clown bike or something like that would
> be fun.
>

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[RBW] Re: Hunqapillar or Atlantis or....?

[Ginz]

All other differences aside, I think some folks would prefer the
single top-tubed Atlantis over the Hunq simply based on asthetics.
That is a perfectly resonable feeling.  It took me a while, but I have
come to like the double-tube.

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[RBW] Re: replacing bearings in Phil "Rivy" FW hub

[Ginz]

Has anyone had any luck servicing their non-FSA hub?  Phil Wood
customer service suggested I insert a QR skewer at an angle and tap
(slam!) it on a hard surface to push the oppossite end cap off.  I
tried it years ago but was very shy about it.  Anyone tried this
technique?

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[RBW] Re: Belated Hunqapillar new owner report/photo

[Ginz]

Nice Hunq'a! Skinny tires, though!

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Re: [RBW] WTB twin leg kickstand

[Ginz]

>
> I have a cut one as well.  If the other's are already cut too short...drop 
> me a line and I'll measure mine for you. 


 

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Edeluxe Light Source - LENR

[Ginz]

I'm not sure this things is such a great idea.  What happens when you are 
on that ride on the 364th day of year 36, it's raining and dark and you 
light goes out?

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[RBW] Re: 26" wheel fenders (SKS)

[Ginz]

I agree with the p-55. The p-65 was massive overkill on 1.75's and I finally 
switched to the p-55. 

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[RBW] Re: On-bike tools: what is your choice or favorite?

[Ginz]

On my mountain bike a rock flipped up and bit the chain right on the 
powerlink!  The powerlink went flying and about ten minutes of searching 
was fruitless.  I don't recall if I had a spare power link or if I 
shortened the chain.  Either way I generally carry a mini chain tool.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Talk to me about bottom brackets

[Ginz]

In this situation, when a square taper is called for, I'd go for a Shimano, 
see how long it lasts and if you need a new BB in one year or five, 
re-evaluate. 

I scrounged my Phils from swap meets and what not so my investment was far 
lower. 


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[RBW] Re: Mini Front Racks and Canti Brakes

[Ginz]

I, too, have a 48cm Hunqapillar with CX70 Cantis and the Nitto Mini.  Now, 
on my fork, I have to use the Tektro Fork-Crown mounted cable stop to 
prevent chatter and moaning.  I tried a million different setups -- v 
brakes, pads, etc.  Nothing else stopped the noise.   I have a dia-comp 
straddle carrier positioned just above the rack post and just below the 
Tektro hanger.  

It's a tight fit but works fine.  Not perfection, but fine, and I'm picky.

Eric



On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 3:I48:03 PM UTC-4, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
> Hi Bob B:
> I have a 48cm Hunqapillar with CX70 cantis and sometimes a Mini Front 
> Rack. Brakes work great (and I much prefer CX70 over the Tektro CR720s they 
> replaced).
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/stakx/23278928000/in/datetaken/
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/stakx/14635282251/in/datetaken/
>
> Good luck,
> Shoji
>
>
> On Monday, May 2, 2016 at 3:23:43 PM UTC-4, Bob B wrote:
>>
>> On my Bombadil with a front mount Mark's rack I tried the CR720's, Sun 
>>> Tour XC Pro's, and Shimano M730's and MC70's(from 1983).  I the XC Pros 
>>> were the only low profile, and did not work worth a hill of beansthey 
>>> need a lower yoke point. 
>>>
>>
>> Garth or anyone else: have you tried the low-profile CX70s with a Mini 
>> Front Rack? This was the setup I was planning for a Hunq I'm building up, 
>> but when I was poking around old threads here this bit got more a little 
>> worried. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Marathon appreciation

[Ginz]

Mike,

You are tempting me to switch from Marathons to the Compass 26x1.75".  Are 
these really gonna change my life?  I don't consider myself a tire 
connoisseur by any means.

It's hard to find a lighter weight version of a 26x1.75" tire.

 Thanks,
Eric

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[RBW] Re: Carry a Multi-tool or loose tools, and why?

[Ginz]

I'd eliminate one of the tubes.  A single tube with patches should be 
sufficient.  The Silver shifter washers weight almost zero, but. that's 
the sort of thing I wouldn't carry. I would also not carry extra batteries 
for my taillight.  Heck, I'd sooner carry a small extra taillight that runs 
on a single AA then carry two or three AA or AAAs.

As others have said, the Leatherman is the heaviest item.  Pliers are great 
to have but perhaps there is a lighter alternative out there.

>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Need info on Bottom Bracket for Biopace Triple

[Ginz]

I am using a 119 or 121mm (can't remember which) asym Phil Wood on an XT 
triple that came with biopace.   Chainline is perfect. 

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Canti Stud Rack Adaptors

[Ginz]

For the Paul brakes you need the Paul adapter. It is special. 

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[RBW] Re: Hubbuhubbuh tandem Pre-order is live

[Ginz]

Not that I have $1,600 in my art budget, but I would love to buy one, hang 
it on the wall and await he growth of my children.

However, that standover on the smallest size is just about .5 to 1.0" too 
much for me to even possibly straddle, which, on a tandem, seems important.


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[RBW] WTB nitto rear bag support

[Ginz]

SJS cycles seems to have the R10 in stock. I got mine from that shop in 
Japan... Can't remember the name. Shipping was very reasonable. 

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[RBW] WTB: Mixte or Tiny Riv. 46-50cm

[Ginz]

There is a small mixte on the Bilenky site. They sent out w Facebook blast 
advertising it for $1400 today only. Check it out. It is a 3 speed, though. 

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[RBW] Re: Roadini

[Ginz]

Low trail, I would guess not. But I would also guess long reach calipers. 

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Re: [RBW] Tandem Sizing Chart on the BLUG

[Ginz]

Now how can a S be right for someone 5'10"? Isn't that excluding at least 
everyone under 5'8"? I guess that's the plan. 

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[RBW] Re: Brake levers for setting up Canti front and V for rear wheel

[Ginz]

If you are are riding really rocky, rooty, steep trails where rear brake is 
primary, then I can certainly understand v brake on the rear. (On my Small 
Hunqapillar, the rear cable stop is in such a tight spot I gave up and put v 
brake on). 

Now, on the front, my hunqapillar has terrible shutter. I tried  various 
things. The only thing that worked was the tektro crown-mounted stop. So, I’m 
using a canti in the front. 

I have mismatched levers and two bar setups with cable breakers. So— I set up 
albatross one way and bullmoose the other. This only works because I like 
right-front braking for road riding.  The tektro levers someone mentioned would 
solve this problem!

Short story is sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. I’d much prefer both v 
brakes or both cantis.

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[RBW] Re: Pondering one 'nice' bike...

[Ginz]

Can the Appaoosa give you 2.1" tires plus fenders?  Or do you need an 
Atlantis for that?   The biggest question is can you setup one bike with 
both Albatross and drops and be happy? Will have to do the zero CM stem 
thing and will you be happy with that?

If you can be ok with the 47mm tires, I'd keep the Redwood and get the bars 
you like. 

Maybe pick the one bike, set it up how you want it and see how long the 
honeymoon lasts?  In other words, don't sell unless you've really tested 
your decision for a good while.
I, too, have a bit of identity crises among my bikes and am trying to 
figure it out.

Ginz

On Thursday, August 6, 2020 at 1:59:32 PM UTC-4 David B wrote:

> I've had lofty goals to increase riding while working from home - those 
> were unrealistic with young kids - and I'm now leaning towards one 'nice' 
> bike as an all-rounder. I likely won't be doing road-exclusive rides, so 
> don't really need a 'road' bike, hence the sale of my Roadini.
>
> With a Roadini sale, I'll be left with the following:
> Riv Redwood, 650b'd and fendered - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B_yrQRyl3T6/
> Riv Clem Smith Jr., currently w/ drops - 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/B-99voyFx5D/
>
> What I'd really like is a bike that can take 2.1" tires and fenders and be 
> setup comfortably with either drops or albatross bars, and with geometry 
> angles somewhere between the Clem (71.5 hta/sta) and Redwood (73 hta/sta).
>
> I've been very attached to the Redwood, however I've been shifting to the 
> 'bikes are just bikes' attitude and am open to passing it along if need be.
> I say 'nice' as I have a lockup train station bike and a folding bike that 
> I'll be keeping.
>
> I see potential options as:
> 1. Sell Redwood, keep Clem and be okay with current setup
> 2. Sell Clem, keep Redwood and be okay with 47mm tires w/ fenders
> 3. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy an Appaloosa
> 4. Sell Redwood, sell Clem, buy a Black Mountain Monstercross
> 5. Ignore this desire and keep both bikes
>
> Note - this is not a feeler for selling either bike - if I sell the 
> Redwood it'll not be a bargain sale.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, other options? Other options would need to fit 
> ~94pbh.
> Thanks,
> David
>

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[RBW] What riv dealers are holding frames?

[Ginz]

Analog has a used 55cm Sam Hilborne complete.  I just happened to be looking at 
it. 

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[RBW] Re: Suggestions on my aspiring Riv-style build?

[Ginz]

Which hubs? ;)

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Re: [RBW] FOR SALE : SOMA BUENA VISTA

[Ginz]

What size a’person do you suspect that’s right for? I have trouble telling with 
these mixtes. 

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