[RBW] Re: Spring Fender Spacing Thingy

2010-07-28 Thread Bob Cooper
I am fortunate to have a local hardware store that has a box with at
least one of every conceivable small spring.

You might try that route.

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Shimmy!

2010-08-08 Thread Bob Cooper
Some data points:

I have a Rivendell Road Custom, a Rambouillet, an Atlantis, two Miyata
Exercisers, a Miyata Road Gentleman, four Raleighs and a Peugeot
PX-10.

They all shimmy.

For what it’s worth,

Bob Cooper

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[RBW] Re: Shimmy!

2010-08-08 Thread Bob Cooper
If I have ten bikes and they all shimmy, and Rider X has ten bikes and
none of them shimmy, I think this points in this direction:

It’s the rider, not the bike.

How else can it be explained?

Bob Cooper

On Aug 8, 3:15 pm, rob markwardt  wrote:

> Funny.  I've had well over 20 bikes, all largish, and have never
> experienced any shimmy.  That being said I have zero desire to go
> faster than 45mph.

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[RBW] Re: Shimmy!

2010-08-09 Thread Bob Cooper
Hello Angus, et al,

The scenario is this:

I’m riding Angus’ Quickbeam down Italy Turnpike outside Naples, New
York.

Your Quickbeam has just been serviced by a great mechanic. The frame
is straight; the wheels are perfect; the tires are perfect; this
headset is perfect. By coincidence, the fit is perfect.

I have my spare tube and a set of allen wrenches in a little bag under
my saddle.

It’s a cold, sunny spring morning, and I’m shivering slightly.

The fast guys are pulling away from me at 53 mph.

I hit a bump in the road hidden by a shadow from a tree.

I tense up and apply the brakes a little. I sit down reflexively to
lower my center of gravity, which we all do when it looks like we are
going to fall. To not do this requires extraordinary will power and
confidence.

Instantly, your Quickbeam starts to shake violently.

My arms go stiff, and I grip the brakes harder to make it stop, but of
course all this makes it shake harder.

No one has been able to satisfactorily explain this phenomenon. Many
have tried; all have failed.

I watched the video that Jim G made of his bike shimmy. I couldn’t
make a video of this on a big descent, because I can’t do anything
when it starts. It’s progressive. It’s violent. It’s profoundly
frightening.

My 55 cm Raleigh with oversize aluminum tubing does this. My 59 cm
Peugeot PX-10 with one-inch top tube does this.

All bikes do this, when I am the rider.

All of my bikes do this at almost any speed, even 15 mph, but the
story ends differently at lower speeds, because I’m not frightened out
of my wits at 15 mph. To stay relaxed on a bike that going fast and
going out of control is very difficult. When the gradient ahead is
INCREASING, it’s even more difficult.

Experience, skill, confidence, will power.

Sometimes I have these at my disposal, sometimes not.

Regards,

Bob Cooper

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[RBW] Re: Shimmy!

2010-08-09 Thread Bob Cooper
René,

Thanks for the comments.

However, I doubt that brake design has much of an effect on shimmy. By
the way, here I define “shimmy” as a mind-numbing terror at an
oscillation of maybe 120 cycles per second and an imminent crash.
“Shimmy” sounds like a silly dance that they did in the 1920s, but
that’s what we call it.

My eight or more bikes have cantis, center-pulls and side-pulls.

It’s just that it’s tricky to apply the brakes without also tensioning
the arms and upper body just a little. (At least until Campy comes out
with that new, mind-controlled braking system, which I hear is slated
for the new, fourteen-speed group.)

Jobst is the only person who has shed enough light on this problem of
mine that, when I actually apply his advise, it has an effect. All
praise to Jobst for that post to the FAQ all those years ago.
http://sheldonbrown.com/brandt/shimmy.html

Essentially what he says is that, unless there is an egregious problem
with the bike, for example, loaded heavily and improperly, broken
frame member, wheel an inch out of true, et cetera, it’s the rider who
propagates a shimmy that was initiated by a gust of wind, a bump, or
such.

Jobst: “...steering action twists the top tube and down tube, storing
energy...”

He didn’t use this analogy, but one way to think about it is as if the
frame were a guitar string that has been plucked.

The string vibrates, because the energy provided by the guitarist is
alternately stored and released as the metal, gut or nylon string
alternately pulls against the two anchor points. A string lying
flaccid on the neck of the guitar, loosened at one end, will not
vibrate harmonically. Without two anchor points, a guitar string has
no method for storing and releasing energy -- vibrating.

Rider skill and confidence are the key to solving this. When I am
already going 50 mph on a strange road, and when I look ahead and see
a drop (the gradient increases precipitously), I tend to grab for the
brakes. That grab, in a sense, tightens the guitar string. Last month
I descended a hill only to see a hairpin turn completely covered from
grass to grass with fine sand. (Et cetera. Fill in your own emergency
scenario.) Tense up. Apply Brakes. Shimmy. My pals, who went through
the same turn much faster, I’m sure, and half an hour earlier, didn’t
even remember it.

After some prodding, one of them seemed to recall what I meant and
then mumbled something about mountain biking.

It’s the rider.

Hope this helps,

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Grant discounts the value of top tube length

2010-08-10 Thread Bob Cooper
The top tube should really be measured from a point in space that is
directly above the bottom bracket spindle to the center of the headset
lock nut and level with the lock nut.

One way to grasp the concept embodied in the phrase “the top tube is
not important” is to visualize, or simply look at, a bike without a
top tube.

Like this one:

http://oldbike.wordpress.com/1928-raleigh-cross-frame-ladies/

Or like this one:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/singlespeedmaniac/2731884171/

Or like this one:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/littlepixel/2559892268/

Or to imagine a bike with an 75 degree seat tube angle and this
seatpost:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7556...@n06/2180468983/in/photostream/

Or this one:

http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/nitto-wayback-seat-post-272-x-250mm/11-048

Enjoy,

Bob Cooper

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[RBW] Re: Review & Instructions for Snobbish Nitto SP-60 Seat Post

2010-08-21 Thread Bob Cooper
I ordered a Nitto S-83 quite some time ago, and this week I got around
to installing it, mating the Atlantis to the Brooks Team Pro.

As I was lubing and assembling the ensemble, I was struck by the fact
that this was the finest seatpost I had ever installed.

Better than my Dura-Ace, Synchros, Easton, Suntour XC Pro, Suntour
Superbe Pro, American Classic or even the Nitto S-65 of which I think
I have three and the Thompson Elite of which I have three.

None of these is junk, but the S-83 is better. How do they do it? A
masterpiece of design and execution.

Bob Cooper

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[RBW] Re: Review & Instructions for Snobbish Nitto SP-60 Seat Post

2010-08-22 Thread Bob Cooper
"...what would be the benefit of this post?"

Historically, from a practical POV, the clamp went with the saddle and
the post went with the frame.

Lots of frames were manufactured without standardized seat tube IDs.
The plain post would be very inexpensive to manufacture in a plethora
of sized.

Lots of saddles were sold with the clamp.

Some saddles had more than two rails.

Et cetera.

So, in the past, the two-part design had a purpose.

Bob "Who's Getting Old Fast" Cooper

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[RBW] Re: Touring with 32h wheels?

2010-08-24 Thread Bob Cooper
I’m sure others will weigh in on this, but the numbers alone are not
encouraging.

Other questions:

Weight distribution front and back?
How smooth the road?
How wide the tires?
Diameter of the rim (20-inch, 28-inch)?
How wide the rims?
Off-center rims?
How wide the OLD (126, 130, 135)?
How many sprockets (one, five, eleven)?

And now, the Pièce de résistance: Who built the wheels?

My two cents,

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Drop Bars vs. Non-drops

2010-08-28 Thread Bob Cooper
Another reason that you need to be able to "get out over the front of
the bike" is that some hills are steep enough that the front tire will
leave the road unless you can counter that somehow with your upper
body.

Also, if your weight is too far forward, your back tire can lose
traction on surfaces other than pavement.

So, in climbing really steep stuff, balance front to back is sort of
critical.

Enjoy the ride,

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Check 'dem Chains Folks

2010-08-29 Thread Bob Cooper
Ouch, Scott, that must have hurt.

Any further info? Manufacturing defect, worn chain, damage to chain
from stone?

I know these things are hard to diagnose.

Ride safe,

Bob

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[RBW] Re: MKS Touring Pedal

2010-08-31 Thread Bob Cooper
What I did: Drill a tiny hole in the middle of the pedal body and
shoot it full of boat trailer grease.

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[RBW] Re: My new Rodeo

2010-09-12 Thread Bob Cooper
Eric,

My 1991 Miyata Exerciser is set up this way.

Dura-Ace in the front; XTR in the back.

Works perfectly.

Unfortunately, there are hills around Naples, New York, that I can't
climb with a 39/34.

Oh, well,

Bob

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[RBW] Re: My new Rodeo

2010-09-12 Thread Bob Cooper
Dave,

That is one gorgeous bike. Thanks to Grant for designing it, and
thanks to you for posting the photos.

This tread also includes comments about bike weight. I noticed earlier
today on the Waterford site -- where they have scans of historic
Schwinn brochures -- that my 1961 Schwinn American weighed fifty
pounds. I didn’t notice, at the time.

It had one speed.

Yesterday, I did this ride

http://www.highlandercycletour.com/

on my 2000 Rivendell Road. As I went around a guy -- about the age of
my son -- who was sitting in the road on a nasty 23-percent grade, I
thought of my 30/24 low that I was using.

I was dripping with sweat. 70-degree afternoon. I went by him at a
walking pace, and we had a nice conversation. I didn’t stop. I
couldn’t stop, because the hill was too steep to stop and get going
again.

Just for some perspective: My buddy just got back from the Alps where
he did 18-percent grades.

Regards,

Bob “There Is No Gear That’s Too Low” Cooper

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[RBW] Re: My new Rodeo

2010-09-12 Thread Bob Cooper
I forgot to mention that on this ride yesterday

http://www.highlandercycletour.com/

on September 11, 2010 (ominous), I dropped my chain going into the big
ring (46) halfway through the ride.

I decided to see how far I could get with just the 30/24 granny and
the 36/13 middle and the combinations in between, i.e., no big ring,
the phillips screwdriver being buried in the bottom of the bag.

Answer: The rest of the ride -- about fifty miles.

Bob “Micro-Drive” Cooper

PS: If your pal is in his full-size (e.g. Ultegra) 42/13 and you are
going down the same stretch of road at the same cadence in your Micro-
Drive 42/13, who is really using a Micro-Drive system?

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[RBW] Re: My new Rodeo

2010-09-14 Thread Bob Cooper
Unintended consequences:

About a year ago, at the urging of three of the best cyclists in my
club, I got a mirror that replaces one of my bar plugs on my drop
bars.

This was for all of the obvious reasons. What wasn’t obvious is that
now I look down at the mirror every few seconds and my neck doesn’t
hurt as much as it used to, because I’m moving my head more -- instead
of the locked-on-the-road-ahead position for hours and hours.

One of the unintended consequences of shifters that coax the hands
away from their usual position on the brake hoods -- a change of
position over hours and hours of riding.

Bob “Likes to Move Around on the Bike” Cooper

PS: Later today, I’m installing some brifters on a bike for myself. Go
figure.

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[RBW] Re: A Tale of Two Atlantises

2010-09-24 Thread Bob Cooper
What tires do you have on the 56 (559 wheels)?

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Anyone hear ever use a camping hammock?

2010-09-25 Thread Bob Cooper
The Hennessey Hammock is a brilliant idea on a number of levels.

But there may be a problem with the older camper -- I am 63 -- finding
a way to be comfortable enough in one to actually get some rest and
even some sleep.

I suggest that you try one, if you can, before you buy.

Hope this helps,

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Intro/First Riv - Interior Frame Rust Question

2010-10-06 Thread Bob Cooper
Steel can take a lot and still function as designed.

Do regular maintenance, ride and enjoy.

Inspect the aluminum bits, like pedal eyes in the cranks and also
stem, handlebar.

Those regions are more likely to fail suddenly but even that's not
very common.

Bob Cooper

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[RBW] Re: New (to me) Rambouillet

2010-10-07 Thread Bob Cooper
Beautiful photos. Artistic. Wonderful lighting.

Bob

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[RBW] Tires for Gravel Roads

2010-10-13 Thread Bob Cooper
Advice sought about riding in the gravel:

Conventional wisdom has it that, if the road surface is harder than
the tire, then knobbies are not an advantage, and a slick tire offers
more grip.

Today I fell on a steep ascent -- about 20+ percent -- on a road
covered in creek gravel the size of robins’ eggs. (I know: I didn’t
pick my line sagely.)

As I spun though the air, looking up at the tops of the trees and at
my feet, which were up there with the trees, I had a moment to reflect
on the conventional wisdom.

I know that a lot of subscribers to this list do a lot of mixed
terrain riding, and I was wondering, if anyone had an opinion about
the use of knobbies versus slicks -- or inverted-tread tires -- for
this application.

Continental Town and Country, 2.1 inch, 25 psi. (What I had today.)

Versus, for example, Specialized Ground Control II, 1.95 inch, same
psi. (What I have in the parts bin.)

Any advice appreciated,

Bob “Love Those Lonely, Gravel Roads” Cooper

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[RBW] Re: AHH, Romulus, or Saluki for Randonneuring?

2009-09-01 Thread Bob Cooper

Just an aside from a guy who doesn’t do a lot of brevets, but a few
and some touring and some dirt and some rain and some snow:

Most bikes are like most lenses (photography analogy) in that they
work well under most conditions. It’s when the unusual conditions
arrive, when the going gets tough, when night falls, or the rains
start or the road turns to dirt, or the hills get so steep that
keeping the front wheel on the road is a serious consideration that
specialized bikes or all-rounders come into their own.

I was on a dirt road the other day that was so rough that I walked
about half a mile of it, because my teeth were chattering in my head
and my rear wheel would not stay down.

So, at that moment, I was wishing for a bigger tire with lower
pressure.

These were 25-28 mm in width with about 85-95 pounds-per-square-inch.

This was on a club ride. We were following a map, but no one knew we
would encounter this patch of dirt (about a mile, I think).

Regards,

Bob
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[RBW] Rambouillet, rear brake cable hanger

2009-01-21 Thread Bob Cooper

I’m ready to install the Mafac Racer center-pull brakes on my
Rambouillet.

But how do I attach the cable stop in the back without some awful
kludge?

This little guy, although cute, binds in the slot, so I’m afraid to
use it for strength reasons; very delicate-seeming: 
http://tinyurl.com/Rear-Cable-Hanger

Any advice appreciated.

Bob Cooper

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet, rear brake cable hanger

2009-01-22 Thread Bob Cooper

Cyclofiend said, Here's a simple one on Loosescrews.com -
http://tinyurl.com/dycvwv

Bob says, yes, this is the one I was trying to show with my bad link.
Apology for that.

Has anyone used it on a Rambouillet?

The gap at the binder bolt is so narrow on a Rambouillet that this
type of hanger will be pinched, the seat post may not be tight enough,
and the fragile aluminum hanger may be compromised for strength.

I bought one and tried it, hence my worries.

Ciao,

Bob Cooper

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[RBW] Re: Rambouillet, rear brake cable hanger

2009-01-22 Thread Bob Cooper

The question has been asked, rightly, Why not calipers?

Well, with all the brakes, rims, tires, and fenders that I have put on
this bike, I have yet to get the fat-tires-and-fenders thing to work,
to the degree of elegance that I imagine.

So, my last-ditch effort will be to use a skinnier tire than I
imagined and a skinner fender than I had imagined and a brake that
“opens when it closes,” if you know what I mean: Mafac center pulls.

I thought that there might be something out there already that I
didn’t know about that would avoid my having to get out the hacksaw,
the scrap metal and the ball-pein hammer. But lo, that looks like the
next step.

I’ll post a picture when done, with or without fenders (defeat!).

Thanks for your help,

Bob Cooper
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[RBW] Re: Phil Wood Bottom Bracket

2009-02-07 Thread Bob Cooper

What is it about Phil BBs that, when cranked down hard they fail, yet
Shimano BBs (UNxx) when cranked down hard are fine?

Does Shimano have this little feature under patent?

Bob
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[RBW] 132.5

2009-02-07 Thread Bob Cooper

Say you had a friend who had a Rambouillet, most of which have a rear
axle spacing of 132.5, as does this one.

And suppose this friend of yours was a klutz at getting the wheel in
and out quickly, and he wanted to make some changes to his setup.

Would you advise him to

1--Cold-set the frame to 130; or

2--Cold-set the frame to 135; or

3--Build a wheel with an OLD of 132.5.

All these have plus and minus arguments that I can think of.

Relevant detail: The bike has a triple crank.

Bob
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[RBW] Re: Sheldon Brown's Ramboillet up on ebay

2009-02-14 Thread Bob Cooper

Here's what to do.

She has put this Rambouillet out in the marketplace, and that means
that we have an opportunity to contribute to its "value."

Just get in there and bid on it.

What would this bike be worth without the history? Multiply by two.

Regards,

Bob

PS: What does a Rambouillet have in common with a Peugeot PX-10?
Answer: They are no longer being made. If you want one, you must get
it from someone other than the manufacturer.
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[RBW] Re: weight limit/use chart

2009-02-15 Thread Bob Cooper

Regarding "weight limits," a guy in my club is a very powerful rider
with barrel chest and legs like tree trunks.

He weights well over 200 pounds.

On a steep climb about five years ago he twisted the cogs off of his 9-
speed Dura-Ace hub. Destroyed the cassette or at least the spider with
the last few cogs.

Without a doubt he is one touch son of a gun.

He rides an old Colnago from about 1978.

To look at the bike, you would think that he was way under served by
the frame: skinny tubes, et cetera. And he never does anything to his
bike unless it breaks first. See above.

But he just keeps going and going.

Steel, lugs and good brazing: That's the end all of it all.

He's the second rider from left in this picture:

http://www.rochesterbicyclingclub.org/

Archival Note: Next year they will put up a new picture, and he might
not be the second guy from the left.

Regards,

Bob
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[RBW] puzzling malfunction

2009-02-24 Thread Bob Cooper

I was wondering why some of the messages of this thread

http://tinyurl.com/d4o3tj

don't seem to open, while some do.

Regards,

Bob
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[RBW] Re: puzzling malfunction

2009-02-25 Thread Bob Cooper

On Feb 24, 9:50 pm, "Bill M."  wrote:
> You can also click the "expand all" link at the top of the page...

That's what I thought was odd.

The EXPAND ALL button doesn't work.

This is the first time in a decade of surfing these types of lists
that this has ever happened to me.
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[RBW] Re: Brooks Alternative

2009-02-28 Thread Bob Cooper

What we need out here in the real world is a Team Pro with steel rails
and bag loops.

Are you listening, Mr. Brooks?

Bob
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[RBW] Re: Friction Shifters issue

2012-04-24 Thread Bob Cooper
I too suspect a thicker washer is the solution.

Counterintuitively, sometimes when mechanical things slip, the
solution is to apply a thin layer of oil or grease to every metal-to-
metal interface including both sides of all washers and to all
threads. This enables you to tighten them more.

It would be tempting to put a wrench on the D-ring, but I wouldn’t do
that without a trained mechanic present, as it would be easy to bend
or break the ring.

Bob “With Several Set of Silvers and Suntours” Cooper

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[RBW] Re: New triples and wider gearing from Campagnolo

2012-05-16 Thread Bob Cooper
I put some low gears on my Atlantis:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/robert-cooper-cycling/6905696438/in/photostream

Bob

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[RBW] Re: PBP 2011 Ride Photos - a set on Flickr

2011-08-30 Thread Bob Cooper
Superb collection. Do you want to provide more info (text)?

Bob Cooper

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[RBW] Re: Mixed-Mode Commuting with AHH

2011-09-24 Thread Bob Cooper
> ... the bicycle hangs down from
> the "top" of the rim when being ridden 
> the weight is not being held up by the
> bottom spokes.

However: Ian Smith. "Bicycle Wheel Analysis". "I conclude that it is
perfectly reasonable to say that the hub stands on the lower spokes,
and that it does not hang from the upper spokes."

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[RBW] Re: No DT shifter boss

2011-09-28 Thread Bob Cooper
And then there's Jobst Brandt, who carries no water, Gatorade, et
cetera.

He stops to drink.

Very civilized, I would say.

Bob

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[RBW] Re: Non-leather saddle with saddlebag loops

2011-11-19 Thread Bob Cooper
Jim Mather said:

> Not as cheap as Viva, but the QR feature is pretty handy:
> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/r13.htm

And I say, this thing is da bomb. I have used it on tour, and like
everything Nitto, it's great.

BUT I think it only works with Brooks saddles.

Which is unfortunate.

Others may disagree, though.

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[RBW] Re: Non-leather saddle with saddlebag loops

2011-12-02 Thread Bob Cooper
In an earlier post, I said that the Nitto saddlebag clap with quick-
release skewer (can’t remember official name of the product) only
works with Brooks saddles.

To clarify, it only positions the saddlebag where it should be
relative to the saddle, on a classic Brooks such as the Pro, B-17 and
so on.

If you attach the Nitto unit to a “modern” saddle, the Selle San Marco
Rolls, for example, you will find that it droops back there and
positions the saddlebag quite a bit lower.

If you ride a 58cm frame with 622 wheels, as I do, you will find that
your fully-loaded Nelson Long Flap is rubbing the tire. Probably with
559 wheels, too.

Sorry,

Bob with the 75cm saddle height

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