[RBW] Re: Chain deal ... ?

[Benz]

That nonchalantness only applies to the durability factor. They're not
single-speed chains so they will experience lateral forces during
shifts and when run cross-chained. So I'll be more worried about the
things flying apart and me suddenly being able to hit the high notes
than wearing out those chains prematurely, not that I'm saying that
those chains are unsafe...


On May 24, 2:17 pm, William  wrote:
> Even if they are only one third as good, you can just buy three of them and
> call it a wash!  ;-)
>
>
> On Thursday, May 24, 2012 2:11:13 PM UTC-7, Ryan wrote:
>
> > Dang! $3 chains?! Are they any good?
>
> > On May 24, 2012, at 14:19, Brewster Fong  wrote:
>
> > On Thursday, May 24, 2012 10:57:39 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> >> Was it on this list that, a couple of months ago, someone offered me a
> >> deal on chains that I turned down for lack of cash? Cash is slightly
> >> less lacking now and if that person reads this and still wants to
> >> sell, will he please email me offlist?
>
> >> If you need 7/8/9 speed chains, Vuelta has a pretty good deal.
>
> > Silver 8 speed chains, which btw can also be used with 7 speed, are $3.00
> > each:
>
> >http://www.vueltausa.com/vuelta-daily-specials/chain-8sp-71mm-cp-116l...
>
> > If you prefer Brown 7 speed chains they're only $2.50 each:
>
> >http://www.vueltausa.com/vuelta-daily-specials/chain-7sp-71mm-brwn-11...
>
> > Silver 9 speed chains are more at $15:
>
> >http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chains/9sp-chain-1.html
>
> > NOTE - the chains DO NOT COME with removeable links. IF you want them,
> > they're a separate item and are called Q-links and sell for an additional
> > $1.50 to $2.00 each:
>
> >  http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chains.html
>
> > Vuelta calls their regular links "master links," but those are not the
> > removable types, ask me how I knowGood Luck!
>
> >> Thanks.
>
> >> --
>
> >> -
> >> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
> >> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> >>http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> >> -
>
> >> A billion stars go spinning through the night
> >> Blazing high above your head;
> >> But in you is the Presence that will be
> >> When all the stars are dead.
>
> >> Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
>
> >  --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups
> > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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[RBW] Re: Chain deal ... ?

[Benz]

Well, maybe not literally flying apart, but chain breaks aren't
particularly rare, especially when shifting under load and cross-
chained. It's fairly dangerous too, since the sudden reduction in
normal forces can lead to crashes at inopportune times.

I should clarify that I'm looking at the way the links are joined, and
perhaps I'm a bit paranoid from the routine peening done on main-
stream chains. But the chains are probably more than adequate.


On May 24, 9:54 pm, Brewster Fong  wrote:
> On Thursday, May 24, 2012 8:36:48 PM UTC-7, Benz wrote:
>
> > That nonchalantness only applies to the durability factor. They're not
> > single-speed chains so they will experience lateral forces during
> > shifts and when run cross-chained. So I'll be more worried about the
> > things flying apart and me suddenly being able to hit the high notes
> > than wearing out those chains prematurely, not that I'm saying that
> > those chains are unsafe...
>
> Wow, are you serious? Have you actually seen or experience a chain "flying
> apart" in this manner? In my 25+ years of riding, I've had chains come
> break, but I never saw a chain fly apart like what you described. Of
> course, there's always a first!
>
> In any event, if you *think* this is going to happen,  I recommend you stay
> far away from these chains. Good Luck!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On May 24, 2:17 pm, William  wrote:
> > > Even if they are only one third as good, you can just buy three of them
> > and
> > > call it a wash!  ;-)
>
> > > On Thursday, May 24, 2012 2:11:13 PM UTC-7, Ryan wrote:
>
> > > > Dang! $3 chains?! Are they any good?
>
> > > > On May 24, 2012, at 14:19, Brewster Fong  wrote:
>
> > > > On Thursday, May 24, 2012 10:57:39 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> > > >> Was it on this list that, a couple of months ago, someone offered me
> > a
> > > >> deal on chains that I turned down for lack of cash? Cash is slightly
> > > >> less lacking now and if that person reads this and still wants to
> > > >> sell, will he please email me offlist?
>
> > > >> If you need 7/8/9 speed chains, Vuelta has a pretty good deal.
>
> > > > Silver 8 speed chains, which btw can also be used with 7 speed, are
> > $3.00
> > > > each:
>
> > > >http://www.vueltausa.com/vuelta-daily-specials/chain-8sp-71mm-cp-116l...
>
> > > > If you prefer Brown 7 speed chains they're only $2.50 each:
>
> > > >http://www.vueltausa.com/vuelta-daily-specials/chain-7sp-71mm-brwn-11...
>
> > > > Silver 9 speed chains are more at $15:
>
> > > >http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chains/9sp-chain-1.html
>
> > > > NOTE - the chains DO NOT COME with removeable links. IF you want them,
> > > > they're a separate item and are called Q-links and sell for an
> > additional
> > > > $1.50 to $2.00 each:
>
> > > >  http://www.vueltausa.com/components/chains.html
>
> > > > Vuelta calls their regular links "master links," but those are not the
> > > > removable types, ask me how I knowGood Luck!
>
> > > >> Thanks.
>
> > > >> --
>
> > > >> -
> > > >> Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
> > > >> For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
> > > >>http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> > > >> -
>
> > > >> A billion stars go spinning through the night
> > > >> Blazing high above your head;
> > > >> But in you is the Presence that will be
> > > >> When all the stars are dead.
>
> > > >> Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory
>
> > > >  --
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> > Groups
> > > > "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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> > > >https://groups.google.com/d/msg/rbw-owners-bunch/-/mVAf9RcRJuMJ.
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>
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[RBW] Re: Summer Camp Fundraiser Continues

[Benz]

Lil' Loafer buyer identified! :)


On Jun 14, 4:39 pm, Peter M  wrote:
> Ok, so selling more stuff to pay for overpriced summer camp, all
> prices are shipped.
>
> Marks Rack-not complete, missing 2 draw bolts, struts have been cut to
> fit a 650b bike, it does have clamps and both diving boards though $40
>
> Carradice Zipped Roll-New condition, I mounted it to see if it would
> work on sprung saddle, didnt like the way it hung though it did work.
> $50
>
> Nigel Smythe old style lil'loafer-Tweed, perfect condition.  $65
>
> Paul Tall and Handsome Seat Post, brand new, never mounted at all,
> will ship in original box-$100
>
> Aluminum Albatross Bars, some scratches under grip area, nothing major
> that isnt covered when grips are on.  $60
>
> Nitto Technomic Standard--some insertion marks, 100mm, $30
>
> Marks Rack-Brand New. $110  Took it out of the bag and undid struts
> but not mounted, everything is included with this one
>
> I am open to "reasonable" offers if any of these prices seem to high
> but I think they are pretty fair. Link to pics of items
>
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/67889635@N06/
>
> Please reply off list. Thanks everyone, I appreciate it.

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[RBW] Re: A very cool, riv-ish bike computer/bell

[Benz]

I hope the head unit is rechargeable and has a big battery. Analog
displays are cool and all, but they're energy hogs, especially for
dials and counters. And I'm not any the electronic bell can simulate
my Japanese brass bell well enough.



On Jun 17, 2:44 pm, ekoral  wrote:
> i thought if anyone would appreciate this new concept computer, it would be
> you guys. It looks like it has a speedometer, trip and overall odometer, as
> well as a BELL!
>
> i love this thing and i can't wait until it's a reality (if ever).
> check it out guys!
>
> eli
>
> http://redfish.ee/?p=477

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[RBW] Re: A very cool, riv-ish bike computer/bell

[Benz]

Can you tell us what the failure mode of your ex-computers were? I
have a bunch of wired and wired computers and other than battery
changes, they had outlasted the inevitable match of technology (to
GPS, etc). I still have at least 2 sets of Cateye wireless Stradas and
2 sets of wired Mity IIs (from the 90's).


On Jun 17, 5:20 pm, Peter Morgano  wrote:
> I think if i get 2 years out of a speedo at a cost of 60 bucks I have
> gotten my money's worth, I wouldnt spend more than that on some fancy
> cadence setup which I know are out there.  It is just one of those things
> that wears out I find, like tires and handlebar wrap. I think that too
> often we think things should last "forever" when they take alot of abuse.
> Not that something should be total crap but there should be a reasonable
> level of wear that I have come to accept out of some things on a bike.

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[RBW] Re: Revenge of GP!

[Benz]

I was in a similar situation a few months ago while riding a 200k
brevet (hosted by the SFR in case anyone's interested). The dude's
bike had very little space around the rear triangle and 1 of his 24
spokes on his rear wheel broke. Fortunately for him, I'm fairly handy
in bicycle mechanics and had the correct spoke wrench. I made a few
adjustments to make the wheel rideable and away we went! He got his
wheel fixed enough to ride to the nearest bike shop and I had a nice
excuse for a break (which I needed! LOL).

I don't know if Topeak still sells this spoke wrench but I carry this
on my key ring as it weighs nothing.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deanlung/2930440829/



On Jul 1, 1:36 pm, Michael Hechmer  wrote:
> Very nice ride today.  Thirty miles out and back on the oddly named
> Pleasant Valley Road.  It is indeed pleasant, just not a valley.  A full
> 1600 feet of climbing before your done.  Anyway I was just about to start
> up the last couple of miles of steep uphill when I saw a rider standing on
> the other side of the road.  He said something snapped and then the bike
> got really hard to pedal.  A quick examination turned up a broken spoke and
> a 21 mm tire wedged against the  chain stay.  No space; vertical drop outs
> so no way to cheat a little.  I skipped the lecture as he appeared anxious
> enough already.  I asked him if he was headed to Cambridge ( 5-6 miles of
> downhill.)  Nope, his car was in Underhill, back up the hill he was going
> down.
>
> Nothing I could do to help.
>
> Michael

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[RBW] Re: Samuel P Taylor S240 Video - Back to Earth.

[Benz]

I think I got a couple of years younger watching that video. Thanks!


On Sunday, July 22, 2012 10:11:10 AM UTC-7, Manuel Acosta wrote:
>
> So I mentioned that my buddy Jesus Beltran, we just call him Chin, 
> videotaped the last S240 to Samuel P Taylor Park.
> A couple months prior I helped him with a cycling video. We liked it but 
> felt it didn't really portray the real reason why cyclist like going out on 
> two wheels to ride bikes. Like most of you the mileage of any bike trip 
> doesn't really matter it's the company and the experiences you get from 
> trip. 
> When I got my new bike Chin was super animate about wanting to do another 
> film with the new Sam so I suggested he should come along on the s240. 
> I think he did an amazing job portraying the sheer joy of riding bikes 
> with a couple of friends. 
> Hope you all enjoy it.
>
> Video proved that it happened:
>
>  http://vimeo.com/zumpangofilms/backtoearth
>
> My buddy that filmed it is an accomplished film maker. Some of his other 
> work can be found here:
>
> Jesus "Chin" Beltran
>
> jesusbeltran.com 
> zumpangofilms.com 
> zumpangofilms.tumblr.com 
> twitter.com/zumpangofilms 
> facebook.com/zumpangofilms 
> flickr.com/elzumpango 
>
>
> -Manny "Wait I'm not suppose to look at the camera" Acosta
>
>
> P.S.
>
> Heres the older video we did prior to the trip. Not really Rivendell 
> related but I thought you locals would enjoy the scenery most of it was 
> filmed in the Oakland hills.
>
> http://vimeo.com/38525817
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: In-line cable housing quick release helpers?

[Benz]

If you can tolerate non-Shimano brake levers (just mask or steel wool-off 
the branding!), any brake levers with the quick-release at the levers (ala 
Campagnolo Ergopowers) can double-up the brake opening to allow fatter 
tires on narrower rims to pass through without deflating. My Record 
Ergopowers operating Shimano BR-R650 brakes have enough space to let out 
Challenge PRs on Aerohead rims when both QRs are engaged.

Example: 
http://www.tektro.com/_english/01_products/01_prodetail.php?pid=67&sortname=Lever&sort=1&fid=3



On Saturday, June 8, 2013 12:21:13 PM UTC-7, bertin753 wrote:
>
> The Shimano AR550s on my Ram are great brakes, but they don't open wide 
> enough to let a 31 mm Parigi Roubaix through while inflated -- I popped a 
> brake shoe off yesterday (it was the old fashion kind with the aluminum 
> holder, so I just flared the sides, shoved it back in, and crimped them 
> shut -- all well again). 
>
> I know Riv sells the Tektro 539s (11 mm increase vs. 4 mm) but (1) I don't 
> wanna pay $77 and (2) I want a pure Shi*mano bike. Aesthetics and 
> obsessions count, you know.
>
> Are there any mid-housing devices to allow more opening for brake arches?
>
> -- 
>
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> patric...@resumespecialties.com 
>
> Albuquerque, NM
>  

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[RBW] Re: A23 vs. Synergy

[Benz]

Hi Brian,

I've built up a set and a half of A23s and a couple of sets of Synergies. 
Both rim types are pretty straightforward to build and required similar 
amounts of attention to achieve the radial/lateral trueness. I build more 
for spoke tension evenness than rad/lat trueness and neither rims gave me 
problems other than the typical slight hop at the joint.

I prefer the Synergies because the available OC version reduces left/right 
spoke tension discrepancy thereby resulting in stronger rear wheels. 
Truthfully, I only ever had a rear wheel fail once in my entire cycling 
lifetime (>30 years), so this may be a technical advantage and not a 
practical one. The Synergies were also a tad easier to build due to the 
reduced turning friction from having eyelets (even if the spoke/nipple and 
nipple/spoke-bed interfaces were oiled). Finally, and this is very 
important for me, tires are significantly easier to mount on the Synergies 
than on the A23s, often not requiring any tire levers at all for the 
Synergies (e.g., for both the GB Cypres and JB Greens, with Veloplugs).



On Thursday, August 9, 2012 5:37:58 PM UTC-7, stonehog wrote:
>
> Has anyone had a chance to build a wheel with the Velocity A23 rims vs. a 
> Synergy rim?  I'm planning a front wheel SON wheel, and have been using 
> Synergy rims to this point.  This will be for my Hilsen and will generally 
> be pulling rando/road duty with Cypres or Jack Brown Greens.  
>
> Brian
> Seattle, WA 
>

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[RBW] Re: [Bulk] Re: [BOB] For those of you who don't subscribe to the Compass/BQ mailings ... New Compass Tires Now Available

[Benz]

Tan sidewalls also have a functional benefit of being more conducive to 
visual verification of tire pressure. In other words, it's easier to do a 
quick check of tire pressure while riding by glancing down. That's in 
addition to tan sidewalls being able to show the "marks of hard men", 
aka stained sidewalls from rim brake effluent when riding in the rain, of 
course...


On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 11:17:19 PM UTC-7, Jan Heine wrote:
>
> There isn't a technical reason... but the issue of how many tires we can 
> produce and stock. We figured that somebody who absolutely needs black 
> tires can upgrade from Standard to Extralight casings, whereas downgrading 
> from Extralight to Standard just because you want black would be giving up 
> significant performance. That said, I think tan sidewalls look great on 
> many modern bikes, as they emphasize the wheels, which are the most 
> important parts of the bike, after all. Modern all-black bikes tend to look 
> like amorphous blobs to me, with little to catch my attention.
>
> Jan Heine
> Compass Bicycles
> www.compasscycle.com
>
> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 7:51:49 PM UTC+2, Chris L wrote:
>>
>> Is there a technical reason for this?  Some of us much prefer the look of 
>> an all black tire over one with a tan sidewall, especially those of us 
>> running MTB's.  
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, August 28, 2015 at 12:48:33 PM UTC-5, Jan Heine wrote:
>>>
>>> The Rat Trap Pass 26" x 2.3" measures about 53-54 mm wide on most rims. 
>>> It's pretty much the largest tire you can fit on a custom bike with "road" 
>>> cranks (and thus a narrow tread/Q factor).
>>>
>>> As to the black sidewalls, they are available only with the Extralight 
>>> casing. The Standard casing is available only with tan sidewalls. The 
>>> Extralight comes both in tan and black.
>>>
>>> Jan Heine
>>> Compass Bicycles Ltd.
>>> www.compasscycle.com
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Nuts and Bolts

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 5:38:12 AM UTC+8, somervillebikes wrote:
>
> I'm by no means OCD but I do keep my stuff fairly organized. The labels 
> aren't something I'd do myself, but one day my kid needed something to do 
> and was using the label maker to write notes all over the house, so I 
> figured why not harness that into something that could benefit me as well? 
> It was one way of getting my daughter to hang out in the basement with me. 
> For nuts/bolts/washers, I have three drawers, one for 6mm "stuff", one for 
> 5mm, and one for 4mm.  All other bolts/washers/nuts that don't fall into 
> those sizes is in random tupperware containers like you, Jim.
>
>
 Anton, should I be shocked that your daughter could correctly identify all 
the small little parts and fasteners? I mean, some of the parts are quite 
esoteric!

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Re: [RBW] Fancy Cheviot!

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 8:10:51 PM UTC+8, Mark Roland wrote:
>
>
> But if the almost timid bend at the end of the stay on the Glorius is like 
> clearing the throat, I guess the new Chev is full burst of song. …
>

It depends on size. The pic you have is a smaller Glorius/Wilbury. The 
larger ones have more pronounced swoops.


I'm slightly mystified as to the 700c wheel size, as in the past, 
> increasing chainstay length and wheel size as the bike frame get bigger has 
> been a design consideration. But I know Grant favors the 60cm Chev and the 
> 59cm Clem L, and I suspect part of that attraction is the large, roll over 
> it, 29er-esque feel of the wheels with fat tires. That extra bit of inertia 
> goes well with the longer wheelbases on these bikes. I just can't fit the 
> 59 Clem in my living room.
>

Are all sizes using 700C?

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Re: [RBW] Tubulars on Rivendells

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 1:59:54 PM UTC+8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I've always been fascinated by roadies hardcore enough to ride tubulars 
> and doing the patching/sewing job on flats. I don't have a clue how they do 
> it, but it's cool!


Joe, it's actually not that hard. The patching part is identical to 
patching tubes from clinchers. The extra bit is finding where the puncture 
is, so that only the threads near it are unraveled, so as to pull the tube 
out for patching. After that, it's stuffing the tube back and trying to sew 
the bit that was unraveled. The stitches only need to be even and doesn't 
have to look good, because it's all glued back anyway.

The harder part of using tubulars, to me at least, is mounting the damn 
things *straight and even* onto the rim, *without* getting glue everywhere. 
Yes, I know about using tubular tape, but that seems a bit like cheating, 
plus it's rumored to not have as nice a ride nor hold as well. To be 
honest, if you *only* ride tubulars, it's not that bad because there's 
efficiency of scale (both in setup and practice of manual labor); it's only 
annoying when you have to take everything out for one set of tubulars, and 
discover that the glue's dried or your fingers aren't nearly as strong as 
you remembered.

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[RBW] Re: Tool for fender stays

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Wednesday, April 29, 2020 at 5:03:47 AM UTC+8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> This is a really dumb question but I don't know the answer. I need to 
> mount some fenders on my Frank Jones and y'all seem to use a big cutting 
> tool for trimming the stays..which one do I buy? I have a Dremel and tried 
> that once, but it was an ear-splitting hot mess. I just want to lop off the 
> ends.


I use different tools for different kinds of stays:

   - For the Honjo/Berthoud "wraparound" kind, I use a small pipe cutter 
   
.
 
   Pipe cutters slice through the aluminum stays easily and leave nice ends 
   that seldom require additional finishing.
   - For the Planet Bike/SKS "stick up" kind, I break out my angle grinder 
   and eyes & ears, to make quick work of the stainless steel stays. Trim and 
   finish with just one tool.
   

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[RBW] Re: Fancy Cheviot!

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, April 30, 2020 at 12:40:55 AM UTC+8, Pancake wrote:
>
> Men on Mixties is already a thing: MOMs. From the 2018 Riv catalogue.
>

Are MOMs the polar opposite of MAMILs ? 
:) 

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Re: [RBW] Photos of my Roadeo, set up for brevets

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, April 30, 2020 at 1:52:14 PM UTC+8, Paul Y wrote:
>
> Thanks Patrick!
>
> I'm in Singapore.
>

Paul, I can't imagine running a brevet in Singapore. The routes must be 
mostly, if not entirely international, with Singapore being so small and 
well-connected internally (hard to find a route that doesn't have multiple 
alternative connecting the same waypoints). And the heat. Oh my!

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[RBW] Re: Bike Forum Rivendell Thread

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Monday, May 25, 2020 at 10:23:31 AM UTC-7, Doug Hansford wrote:
>
> I get email updates for a bike forum and this thread was a topic linked. 
> It’s a typical Rivendell discussion by folks who don’t agree with Grant’s 
> bicycle philosophy. But there are comments of support as well. I thought it 
> might be of interest to folks here. 
>
>
> https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vintage/1202237-anyone-else-baffled-rivendell-s-photos.html
>  
>

SMH…Haters gonna hate. There; I saved you minutes of time that you won't 
get back.

Am I exaggerating? Do you consider these substantiated critique?:

   - They're putting pics of people walking their bikes up hills!
   - They're taking pics of their bikes in front of garage doors!
   - How can they ever ride those bikes with such long chainstays up hills? 
   (you mean like this 
   ?)

It's also incredibly ironic that at least one person found fault with 
Rivendell for not adopting disc brakes, because bigger tires can be used 
then; I guess they never heard of cantilever brakes, nor realized that 
Rivendell was a steward of fat tires for *any* bike use even back when 23mm 
wide road tires were considered wide, and gravel bikes were but a glimmer 
in the "country" bikes' eyes.

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[RBW] Re: Locking Up your Riv

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Wednesday, May 27, 2020 at 9:04:50 AM UTC-7, Vincent Tamer wrote:
>
>
> What do you all use in the various conditions that you lock your bike up 
> in?
>

I have a handful of nice locks as I've been trying them out, but I 
eventually settled on the Abus Brodo, although mine is the burly Granit 
X-plus variant. I like it because it is secure (lock mechanism was 
well-reviewed by TheLockPickingLawyer 
), it is compact 
when not in use, and it works well enough for locking my Wilbury up at 
local grocery stores, Target, and such. I like it so much that I got my son 
an identical one for his new-to-him Atlantis, that he rides to and locks up 
at school. Note that I've equipped the bikes that get locked up with 
Pitlocks , security bolts 
, and strategically placed ball bearings 
locked in with beeswax, so the locks are only used to secure the frame to 
whatever immovable object.

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[RBW] Re: Dark Green B17 Special

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

A bit expensive for a used Brooks, but this  is 
available. I know that someone was discounting titanium-railed Finesse 
saddles (fits like a short B17) for about $150 on eBay, but those seemed to 
have sold out.

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[RBW] Re: Pedals

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, June 2, 2020 at 10:46:34 AM UTC-7, Doug Hansford wrote:
>
> I saw an interesting article about innovative pedal design and it got me 
> to thinking. Why do I use the pedals that I use? I like platform pedals 
> after using clipless for many years for both road riding and single track. 
> My current are Shimano steel. Which pedals do you use and why?  Link to the 
> article below:
>
> https://newatlas.com/bicycles/bike-pedals-unique/
>
>
I haven't tried too many different pedals, but I've settled on a few:

   - If I'm going to get clipped in, and don't expect to be walking much, I 
   use Time Impact or RXS pedals. I used to use Speedplay X series pedals, but 
   a friend gave me a set of then top-of-the-line Impact Mg-Ti pedals, and I 
   prefer their modest amounts of both lateral and rotational float. In 
   addition, the cleats are fairly walkable (for a road cleat), are fairly 
   inexpensive, and last quite a while. Having good experience with the Impact 
   pedals, I bought the successor RXS pedals to try out (Impacts were 
   discontinued then), and was pleasantly surprised that they feel similar to 
   the Impacts. I also found out that newer Impact cleats can even be used on 
   RXS pedals, which is nice.
   - If I'm going to get clipped in, and suspect that there may be a bit of 
   hike-a-bike, I use Shimano SPD pedals (mostly XTR) with the multi-release 
   cleat. The best review I can give them is I don't worry about them.
   - For my pedaling-free pedals, I have a mix of MKS RMX and Rivendell's 
   el-cheapo Clem Smith pedals. I tried other MKS offerings including the 
   "Grip King", but didn't like them. My feet prefer the wide, squarish, 
   somewhat concave platforms. I would have preferred the roller/ball bearing 
   setup of the Time pedals on these platform pedals, but I appreciate these 
   are just optimizations that feed the geek/nerd mind more than actually 
   making real-world differences.
   - I still have a few Shimano "dual platform" PD-A530 pedals, but I found 
   that they're not easy to flip to the correct side when starting off. I've 
   since transitioned to full platforms for commuting and/or utility riding, 
   so they are essentially abandoned now.

 The common theme I found with all these pedals is that they are reliable, 
and dependable. I seldom have to think about them, although I always 
lube+adjust new MKS pedals before putting them into service. For the 
clipless pedals, the cleats' failure mode is gradual, which gives me plenty 
of warning, contributes to them being dependable. Of course, Shimano 
multi-release and Time Impact/RXS cleats are still easily available.

>

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[RBW] Re: FS- 53cm Atlantis with s&s couplers (26” wheels)

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Ryan, can you repost the pics? It seems that only the thumbnails came 
through.

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Excitment on IG

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, June 11, 2020 at 11:32:45 AM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
wrote:
>
> Whatever you think of the name, the decals are really great. If you aren’t 
> on Instagram, this is what you’re missing out on!
>
> Per Rivendell’s IG account, see photos...
>

I still think "Platypus" is an odd name for a bike, but those decals are 
*gorgeous*!

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[RBW] Re: Headset/Headtube Issues on New Atlantis

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

If your Atlantis new? The ends of the Atlantis headtube is reinforced, so 
it's unlikely to get ovalized unless someone was trying really hard, or the 
bike hit something. Did the shop measure the headtube inner diameter and 
the headset cup diameter to ensure they're sized correctly and round? If 
the bike is new, I'll guess that someone used a JIS headset cup on the ISO 
headtube. The difference (30.2 vs 30.0mm) is exactly like what you're 
describing.

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[RBW] Re: FS- 53cm Atlantis with s&s couplers (26” wheels)

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 7:52:05 AM UTC-7, Abcyclehank wrote:
>
> I am not the most tech savvy.  This was only the 2nd time I have 
> successfully posted pics I believe.  Not sure what the thumbnail reference 
> is other than I choose small size pics since I attached 22 images.
>
> Happy to send larger pics in a DM or text them to you.
>

I really shouldn't be looking at another 53cm Atlantis. LOL!

As for the pics, you've attached tiny images that are not much larger than 
the thumbnails (small preview size). They are so small that no further 
details, compared to the thumbnails, can be discerned. If you don't want to 
flood the post with large images, can you alternatively host them on 
something like Flickr or even a Google Drive. That way, only interested 
parties will take up the necessary bandwidth. Furthermore, if you size the 
pics and use the JPEG compression ratio selector appropriately, each higher 
resolution pic shouldn't be more than 200 or 300kB, meaning the whole batch 
is maybe 6 or 7MB.

And I really shouldn't be thinking about another 53cm Atlantis, even if it 
has S&S couplers. :)

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[RBW] Re: FS: Frank Jones 51cm

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, June 12, 2020 at 6:26:37 AM UTC-7, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> If this was one size bigger


Then we will have a bidding war! :) 

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[RBW] Re: Rene Herse Tires with tubes

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Monday, June 15, 2020 at 6:37:46 AM UTC-7, Brady Smith wrote:
>
> I’ve been Herse-curious for a while, but have always decided against them 
> due to concerns about durability, especially since I don’t have 
> tubeless-compatible rims. But I also recently read that Jan Heine actually 
> runs his tubed, and I’ve encountered other people doing the same. Since 
> there are lots of Herse-users here, I thought I’d ask about your 
> experiences. Tubed or tubeless? How often do you flat? I’m thinking about a 
> set of Snoqualmie or Barlow Pass tires for my BMC Monster Cross. These 
> would be summer fun tires for suburban and country roads. When it’s back to 
> commuting season (whenever that happens...) I’d put my Pasela Protites back 
> on. Thoughts? Thanks!


I don't believe you *need* to run RH tubeless-compatible tires tubeless. 
These tires have a special bead that has been designed for tubeless 
installation and use, but are otherwise identical to their brethren that 
are not tubeless-compatible.

I run my Naches Pass, Rat Trap Pass, Barlow Pass, and Stampede Pass tires 
all with tubes, because I don't feel like repeating a messy sealant 
incident. I don't get too many flats (1-2/month?) and can't feel the lower 
rolling resistance from running them tubeless anyhow. YMMV, of course. Oh, 
my commuter has Naches Pass tires, so at least those aren't babied as a 
fair-weather steed. Life's too short to not be running supple tires. LOL

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Re: [RBW] Problems with Nitto stems and bars?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, June 18, 2020 at 1:21:45 PM UTC-7, Doug Hansford wrote:
>
> Mark,
> The same thoughts went through my head today as I drove my 2002 Toyota 
> 4Runner that has more than 205,000 miles on it. It runs so well and is 
> solid and just well-made. But, it has a few rattles and quirks that I can 
> live with that don't affect the performance or safety. Leah's bike and 
> components are of course much newer and less complex than a 4Runner but 
> nothing is exempt from slight noises and rattles. The stem/handlebar 
> connection is important but if it is truly just a noise that doesn't seem 
> to be leading to failure then one has to decide if they can or cannot live 
> with it. When I start hearing a noise like that it's hard to unhear it or 
> ignore it though. Oh to be on my BMX bike again not caring about the 
> details.
> Doug
>

LOL! I'm quite sensitive to odd noises. One time, one minute after getting 
into her car, I even picked out that something was amiss with the engine 
because it didn't sound right. Despite the car being her daily driver (and 
so she should be most familiar with it), she didn't hear anything strange. 
I had to stop the car, open the hood, poke around, and show her that airbox 
cover was not seated correctly. It's a curse! :)

Strangely enough, even if I hate creaks and rattles, I quite enjoy some 
bicycle noises. Like Campagnolo drivetrains that are never as quiet as 
Shimano's, the slight tick-tick-tick of Sturmey-Archer IGHs, the distinct 
hum of knobby tires on dirt/gravelly roads, or the wao-wao-wao of 
deep-section wheels run at high speeds. These are endearing sounds that 
invoke great memories for me.

Back to Leah's problem, I think *sleeved* Nitto handlebars are known to be 
prone to creaks. The solution, as Leah found out, is to introduce a bit of 
a lube between the handlebar and sleeve, so the metal-on-metal contact and 
motion do not produce aggravating sounds (even if the contact and motion 
are still present). Introducing the lube doesn't degrade performance, but 
is still a hack. I would have used some sort of Loctite low-viscosity 
retaining compound, or get the non-sleeved version if available.

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[RBW] Re: Useful use for beeswax

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Patrick, is butch wax different from pomade?

I haven't had a super-short haircut since I was 12 or 13, when I got 
totally buzzed (shorter than crew cut), together with a friend, on a dare 
from another friend. Yeah, stupid things teens do…

I used beeswax to waterproof the Brompton bag that I made from Joann Fabric 
heavyweight cotton canvas. I was surprised at how much beeswax the fabric 
absorbed, once heated up with a hairdryer. It took almost a fist-sized 
amount and didn't even exhibit the sheen I've seen on commercially treated 
cotton (like on some Filsons), much less extrude a surface layer that would 
crack when the underlying fabric is flexed (as I had feared). It did bead 
and shed water like a duck, and that's all that I cared about.

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[RBW] Re: Brooks Brown v. Black

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Are we witnessing the birth of a bag matcher? :)

I agree with Brett — Black is good unless you’re going to run gumwall tires 
in the future.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Useful use for beeswax

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, June 19, 2020 at 12:31:58 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Butch Wax is quite a bit more waxy and far less greasy than pomade; it was 
> made for the crew cuts popular in the '50s and early '60s, to make the hair 
> stand up. But it works to keep 3/4" long hair down, too. Pomade was 
> basically scented Vaseline.
>
> I am old enough, and lived in places that were backward enough, to have 
> used real pomade -- as an 11 year old boy in Bangalore in 1966, when I 
> started getting fashion conscious and let my hair grow out to combable 
> length (1.5") instead of the #2 guard buzz cuts my father would give my 
> brother and I every 2 weeks in the bathtub. Bangalore in 1966 was like the 
> US -- or better, Britain -- in 1950*, and you could still buy locally 
> manufactured, florally-scented grease for your hair. I thought it was 
> stylin'.
>
> *Long before it became part of the Indian Silicon Valley it had been a 
> British Indian Army cantonment town (3,000 feet above sea level, thus a bit 
> cooler in the horrible hot and immediately pre-monsoon seasons); in 1966 it 
> still had something of this flavor, rather mildewed.
>

Patrick, your story reminded me of an old classmate. We never kept in touch 
after school, and I don't even remember his name, but I remember his hair. 
It was medium-long, and nothing special, except he always used so much 
strong gel that it formed a rigid structure on his head. One time, it 
started raining when we were running a 2.4km loop during PE. Lo and behold, 
he came back soaked but with his hair almost intact. We were laughing that 
his time was so good because his gelled hair made a peak/brim that allowed 
his unfair advantage of being able to see where he was going in the 
torrential rain.

PS: After I typed out my story, I suddenly remembered the hair styling 
product *Brylcreem* (no, I never used it). It's not butch wax, nor pomade, 
but a quick look at its Wiki page indicated that it's an emulsion of water 
and mineral oil stabilized with *beeswax*. Yet another use for beeswax!

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Re: [RBW] Problems with Nitto stems and bars?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Saturday, June 20, 2020 at 11:09:18 AM UTC-7, Ray Varella wrote:
>
> Either way, I get the same results. 
> And sometimes I click download and it just reopens the thread.  
>
>
Ray, Leah's videos didn't play on my iPhone nor iPad, but was fine when 
downloaded and played on the computer. I have no idea what's the issue is, 
but this is a solution that worked for me.

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell riders use for bicycle saddles? 3 questions for RivRiders.

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Like most here, I've found Brooks saddles to be my mainstay nowadays. But 
it didn't start that way.

Long ago, when I was racing, I went through the saddle musical chairs and 
found Avocet's 40R and the Selle Italia Flite to be the ideal saddles. I 
even traded expensive failed experiments for Flites and 40Rs. I eventually 
ended up with a nice collection, including two full-carbon (rails + shell) 
Flite. Grant will cringe at that. Heck, *I'll* cringe at that, even if I do 
still have one now (in box, unmounted).

Following my salad days, I stopped riding for a few years due to work. I 
restarted riding when I discovered I had a double-chin (Who, me? What?!!) 
and had to do something about it. I then realized I didn't have to train 
for the next hammerfest or race anymore. I also found out that Flites and 
40Rs (and 4" handlebar drops) are not compatible with the newer, heavier me 
anymore. The search for a new riding paradigm led me back to Rivendell's 
style* and Brookses.

I started the Brooks addiction with a *Swift* because I was still in 
semi-denial about being a racer. That saddle almost had me swore off Brooks 
saddles entirely. It was painful before being broken-in and the break-in 
period was quite extended. But either my butt or the saddle (or both) got 
molded and it was all good after 4 or 500 miles of discomfort. Yes, the 
pundits were right. You needed to pay your dues.

With the *Swift* experiment a success and the purchase of a more upright 
riding bike with essentially no handlebar drop, I tried the B17, fully 
expecting to suffer through another break-in period. But the B17 was 
wonderful out of the box! How can that be? And it got even more comfortable 
as the miles piled on. Padded shorts added to the comfort even more but 
normal shorts weren't bad at all! It was a complete revelation and I had 
became a closet evangelist!

Quickly, the fleet got B17s outright or B17 retrofits. The only bike that I 
currently ride without a Brooks is my racing Seven with a Selle San Marco 
SKN and my mountain bike with a WTB SST (with the gonzo nose). The SKN is 
not uncomfortable but it shows its presence at about 70 miles. In 
comparison, I've ridden 200km brevets without even giving a thought to my 
bum or saddle while on a B17. But the SKN looks good on the Seven (style 
points!) and I don't really ride the Seven that much anymore.

So now the count is this: Four B17s, two Swifts and a sprinkling of 
miscellaneous saddles. Of the Brooks-equipped bikes, only one has a 
positive handlebar drop (1") and the rest have their handlebar level or 
higher than the saddle.

* back because I knew Rivendell from my college days, as a quirky and 
interesting outfit that didn't really had anything for me at that time.



On Thursday, August 15, 2013 10:21:41 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
>
> Since I asked about shorts, I thought I'd ask about saddles, too.
>  
> 1. What are the most comfortable saddles that you use? Please give the 
> full name of the saddle (like, don't say just "Terry saddle", if it was a 
> "Terry Liberator Y Gel saddle").
>  
> 2. Please state for which kind of riding you use the saddle (ex: 
> racing/touring/dirt/stunt/commuting/drops/upright, etc.).
>  
> 3. On which of your bikes do you use the saddle (ex: 
> Riv/All-R/Lego/Cust/Ram/Rom/Red/Bomb/Ap/At/Bet/Yv/Sam/Hunq/Road/Glor/Wilb/Bler/Homer/Simp/Quick/whatever
>  
> other models they make)?
>  
> 4. Feel free to link to a pic of your saddle.
>  
> Interesting to read about these things.
> For instance, I read that someone stated they used their B67 or 68 
> for bars-below-saddle riding, though contrary to its designed purpose, I 
> think.
>  
> Always nice to hear that people are using gear outside the box with 
> success.
> Helps keep perspective and not always buy into the "no you can't" gear 
> zeitgeists that are always flying around bicycle circles.
>

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[RBW] Re: Rack Mounting Question

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

As others have eluded to, the M12 canti-stud mounting method is not a 
plug-n-play with Suntour XC Pro cantilever brakes. The issue here is that 
the brake mounting bolt is recessed, while the M12 requires a flat 
"platform" to attach to. So you can try any brake that does not 
use recessed mounting bolt, or use a spacer to take up the space of the 
mounting bolt head.

I've successfully completed two installations of this type:

   1. https://flic.kr/p/iPMjx9
   2. https://flic.kr/p/ihitRG
   
You'll need a M6 spacer of enough height to make up the brake's recessed 
space, plus an extra millimeter for clearance. Then you can use a long M6 
bolt to bolt all of that down. I ended up with a M6x35mm but YMMV.

One complication is that the M6 spacer's outer diameter should be narrow 
enough to fit inside the brake's recessed space. Most "proper" M6 spacers 
have an outer diameter of 13mm whereas I found that I needed 10mm outer 
diameter M6 spacers. Essentially, I was looking more for a sleeve than a 
spacer. These can be hard to find but they are available on eBay. For 
example: http://r.ebay.com/4BrnOh (no affiliation).

The Paul Component also offer a rack adaptor kit that is essentially like 
the Nitto adaptor but with a built-in spacer. It's a bit pricey and I have 
no idea how "tall" its "spacer" is. It is designed expressly for their 
cantilever brakes that use recessed mounting bolts. See: 
http://www.paulcomp.com/rackadapter.html


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[RBW] Re: What's involved switching to road levers?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Do you have V-brakes or cantilevers? If the former, you'll need the V-brake 
specific road levers or use something like a Travel Agent. If the former, 
you're good to go with the non-aero levers.


On Sunday, April 6, 2014 12:23:37 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> I am assessing if this is a job I can do or if I need to take it to my 
> LBS. I will be switching from mountain brake levers to road non-aero levers 
> for my albastache bars. I’m good for swapping everything else, but don’t 
> know what’s involved with the levers. Do I need to change cable? Can I just 
> pop the cable out one and into the other? Or do I have to cut and replace 
> bits?
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> *www.MindYourHeadCoop.org *
> *www.OurHolyConception.org *
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Low trail, lightest tubing bikes really all that?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I went all out for a "Jan Heine" bike – Boulder Bicycle Allroad with the 
"skinny" top tube option (lightest combo), mated to Grand Bois Extra Leger 
Hetre tires and even latex tubes. After riding it for more than 1000 miles 
(brevets, commutes & weekend rides), I don't know if all that expense was 
worthwhile. This isn't to say that the Boulder isn't a nice riding bike and 
that the EL Hetres aren't wonderful. Indeed, they are. But I don't really 
feel a significant difference compared to any of my bikes that are set up 
similarly. They're not magically faster and no amount of planning (if 
present) helped when I was undertrained for a ride. The handling is a bit 
different but only subtly so compared to any of my other "stiff" bikes with 
mid to high trail. The difference is certainly not any more so than between 
my Atlantis and my Colnago (for example). And as Grant stated before, a 
ride or two will entirely accustom me to the difference.

But then again, I've not put big loads up front. I've used handlebar bags 
filled with stuff for short brevets on my Atlantis, the Boulder and even my 
custom Rivendell. All handled fine and were totally manageable. Maybe if I 
start carry gold bars about... :)

IMO, bikes at this end of the refinement curve are all good bikes. One's 
merely nitpicking at this point and any one will do since very few of us 
will explore those differences often and we all adapt to their 
idiosyncrasies. Nowadays, I may choose the bike-of-the-day based on tires 
for the terrain. For northern CA's crappy roads, that means bikes that can 
only take max 25mm tires get to stay home for months on end, even if they 
do only weigh 16lb.


On Wednesday, April 16, 2014 11:08:22 PM UTC-7, Michael wrote:
>
> Anyone here own a low-trail/ lightest tubing bike?
> Like the Herses and Singers and the new MAP S&P, Boulder bikes, etc.?
>
> Do you find them really that much better performing (faster, flexier, 
> planier, efficient) than your  "oversized" steel tubing bikes, as I have 
> read about in reviews of them?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Geometry, climbing, what's going on?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, April 25, 2014 9:42:01 PM UTC-7, Anne Paulson wrote:
>
> I've read that the gyroscope effect is not relevant for bikes-- didn't 
> someone build an anti-gyro bike, with a second wheel spinning in the 
> opposite direction, and discover that it was easy to steer?
>

Neither gyro nor trail is essential for a self-stablilizing single-track 
vehicle.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7nr7gxib4Pc


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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:30:44 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:
>
> The big push for discs is because they work better, period. Some people 
> are happy to have brakes that work 'well enough'. Like I said before, if I 
> always rode in fair weather, I too wouldn't care about having discs. But if 
> you ride in snow, rain, wet mud, swampy terrain, etc, it becomes very 
> obvious, very quickly, how rim brakes fall short.
>

I disagree that the big push for discs is because they work better. Discs 
are being pushed simply because manufacturers need something new and 
different to sell in this stagnate market. You, I and most people on this 
Google group aren't the majority of the customers for the bicycle industry. 
Make no mistake – we are the tiny minority of cycling nuts (I wear that 
badge with pride). The majority of cycling industry customers aren't 
pushing their bicycles to the limit. In fact, I suspect the majority of 
cycling industry customers won't be riding in the rain, and they won't be 
touring with stuffed panniers. They are the fair weather cyclists whose 
bikes probably won't even need a brake pad change while in their possession.

These customers buy stuff because it's novel and cool, but not necessarily 
because it works better. A lot of them probably buy by bullet points – Disc 
brakes? Check. Minimum dual 5" suspension? Check. 27.5" wheels? Check. 
Wheels that can save 5 seconds off a 40-km time trial? Check. Now, there's 
nothing wrong with that, but let's not fool ourselves by claiming that disc 
brakes are pushed because they work better. Indeed, manufacturers won't be 
bothered with disc brakes, if the target market only consists of people who 
can functionally benefit from them. And yes, I'm an all-weather commuter 
(albeit in Northern CA) who has two disc-equipped bikes, so I'm 
demonstrably not anti-disc.

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[RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

It's straightforward physics. When the lever arm is shorter, more force is 
needed for the same torque (stopping force). Thus, more force is being 
applied by the disc brake and countered by the fork blade for the same 
deceleration, compared to a rim brake setup.

Let's do some estimating for a front setup: "Big" discs have about a 10 cm 
radius, while rim brake tracks are about 30 cm from the hub. So the fork 
blade will experience 3 times the force of what the fork crown experiences, 
given the same deceleration of the bike. That means one will likely have to 
make the fork blade stronger for disc use (unless one already overbuilt the 
fork to start with).




On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 10:02:02 AM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> im no scientist, and ive never used disc brakes, but the argument that the 
> stopping force near the hub is too extreme doesnt really work in my head, 
> as long as modulation is in play. i would understand it, if he is talking 
> about locking up the wheel on a regular basis, but assuming that's not the 
> case and you are just trying to slow down normally, is there any real risk 
> to the frame?
>
> anyway, i like rim brakes. i like the way they look. i know how to put 
> them together and take them apart. ill probably never need or want a disc 
> brake bike.  i don't ride in the rain or mud very much here in CA, but when 
> i do, stopping can get scary. i can see someone wanting a better option for 
> that type of riding...which isnt really fringe riding for a lot of the 
> world. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: good blug post on rim and disk brakes

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Eric, I did mention in my post that I own two disc brake-equipped bikes – 
one rather fanciful full hydraulic and one plain-jane mechanical. So yes, I 
have used disc brakes. Both disc brake setups perform fine, but the point 
is I seldom wish I have disc brakes when riding my rim brake bikes, with 
the main exception being rainy days when the scratching sound of 
contaminated pads-on-rims really irritates me. For me, discs don't really 
offer better modulation than my rim brakes (that I've spent effort setting 
up to my liking).


On Saturday, May 14, 2016 at 5:20:54 PM UTC-7, Eric Daume wrote:
>
> Have you ridden with discs? Because they do work better. Period. Not even 
> in terms of absolute power, but the modulation of hydraulic discs is a 
> wonderful feeling.
>
> On Sat, May 14, 2016 at 6:41 PM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA  > wrote:
>
>> On Friday, May 13, 2016 at 9:30:44 AM UTC-7, Mark Reimer wrote:
>>>
>>> The big push for discs is because they work better, period. Some people 
>>> are happy to have brakes that work 'well enough'. Like I said before, if I 
>>> always rode in fair weather, I too wouldn't care about having discs. But if 
>>> you ride in snow, rain, wet mud, swampy terrain, etc, it becomes very 
>>> obvious, very quickly, how rim brakes fall short.
>>>
>>
>> I disagree that the big push for discs is because they work better. Discs 
>> are being pushed simply because manufacturers need something new and 
>> different to sell in this stagnate market. You, I and most people on this 
>> Google group aren't the majority of the customers for the bicycle industry. 
>> Make no mistake – we are the tiny minority of cycling nuts (I wear that 
>> badge with pride). The majority of cycling industry customers aren't 
>> pushing their bicycles to the limit. In fact, I suspect the majority of 
>> cycling industry customers won't be riding in the rain, and they won't be 
>> touring with stuffed panniers. They are the fair weather cyclists whose 
>> bikes probably won't even need a brake pad change while in their possession.
>>
>> These customers buy stuff because it's novel and cool, but not 
>> necessarily because it works better. A lot of them probably buy by bullet 
>> points – Disc brakes? Check. Minimum dual 5" suspension? Check. 27.5" 
>> wheels? Check. Wheels that can save 5 seconds off a 40-km time trial? 
>> Check. Now, there's nothing wrong with that, but let's not fool ourselves 
>> by claiming that disc brakes are pushed because they work better. Indeed, 
>> manufacturers won't be bothered with disc brakes, if the target market only 
>> consists of people who can functionally benefit from them. And yes, I'm an 
>> all-weather commuter (albeit in Northern CA) who has two disc-equipped 
>> bikes, so I'm demonstrably not anti-disc.
>>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: What do you crump those Schmidt spade connectors with?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

It's not impossible to find it online. eBay has a few models for you to 
choose from. I am not vouching for any of these, but if you just need this 
tool occasionally, the cheapies can't be too bad since the mechanism is 
pretty simple and straightforward:

   - http://www.ebay.com/itm/121976278878
   - http://www.ebay.com/itm/282033097826
   - http://www.ebay.com/itm/321965249245
   - http://www.ebay.com/itm/262378162685
   

On Sunday, May 15, 2016 at 1:57:34 PM UTC-7, Lungimsam wrote:
>
> Specific tool is near impossible to find in stores or online, unless 60$+ 
> bucks.
> What do you all use as alternatives?
> Or must one order the tool online?

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[RBW] Re: FS: Carradice, Nigel Smythe, Minnehaha bags; Nitto Campee front rack w/ detachable lowriders

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Sent email about the NS loafer...


On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 4:47:11 PM UTC-7, Julian wrote:
>
> Rack and Minnehaha are sold. Carradice and Nigel Smythe still available. 
>
> Thanks, 
>
> Julian Westerhout
> Bloomington, Il 
>
> On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 10:04:35 AM UTC-5, Julian wrote:
>>
>> For sale are three bags and a  Nitto Campee rack. Details below, photos 
>> here https://flic.kr/s/aHskADwFKN 
>>
>>
>> 1) Carradice Barley saddlebag. Green. Very good condition. $85 shipped 
>> w/in conus. 
>>
>>
>>
>> 2) Nigel Smythe small loafer. Tan. Essentially new. $85 shipped w/in 
>> conus. 
>>
>>
>>
>> Payment via Paypal friends. Please reply off list. 
>>
>>
>> Regards, 
>>
>>
>> Julian Westerhout
>>
>> Bloomington, IL 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Aggressive cycling pack and I slipped up today

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I concur. Furthermore, you have to understand that the riders behind you 
can't really see what's in front (the drain), until they passed you. By 
then, the line is established and following riders won't know this from 
that. By riding your own (safe) line, you would have assured that the 
peloton went around you to your left; by choosing a line to the drain, you 
unknowingly and unfortunately contributed to the situation. It's all about 
knowing the predictable behaviors of group riders and how to behave in that 
context. Don't worry about them crashing into you. No competent peloton 
does that.

I further believe that the hostility shown here towards riders in a group 
to be undeserved. Sure, there are idiot riders (just as there are idiot 
drivers), but the peloton as described was merely doing its predictable 
thing.  Although it may appear otherwise, no one in the peloton was looking 
to crash that day and intimidating some other cyclists was probably 
non-existent on their To-Do list. It's also my experience that riders not 
accustomed to group rides tend to be surprised by what experienced group 
riders will consider ample space, and 2 feet of space can feel like 6 
inches.

If you really want to establish space in context of a peloton, ride 
unpredictably (e.g., not in a straight line). Lead riders will see that 
before passing you and should give you plenty of space then. :)

(Am I really typing this in a Unracer group?)


On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 5:10:10 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I'm sorry about your experience.  I wish we lived in a world where basic 
> civility could reliably produce a like response.  In general I am willing 
> to deal with the negatives without giving up my choice to be civil but
>
> From my long past racing brain.  It's not a lane, it's a line.  In racing 
> a rider takes a line and those behind him are expected to respect that 
> line.  They can pass on the left or the right but trying to force a rider 
> off his line is foul play.  Having gone past a rider, it is acceptable to 
> cut in front, even if it forces someone else to slow down.  It is analogous 
> to taking a lane in traffic.  From the racers point of view, you took a 
> line to the right and you became responsible for whatever might be in that 
> line -sewer grates, potholes, debris, whatever.  So... the expected 
> strategy is that the rider in front will take and hold the line he 
> considers most advantages to himself.  Unfortunately you chose kindness & 
> civility, which have no space in a racers brain.  When riding on the local 
> roads in Vt.,  I typically take a line just to the left of the fog line. 
>  This forces cars and racers to move to the left to pass me and if they 
> don't give me enough space, I have room to my right to find safety.
>
> blessings,
> michael
>
> On Sunday, May 22, 2016 at 9:26:15 AM UTC-4, Jay LePree wrote:
>>
>> Hi group,
>> I am writing to ask how you would have handled this and to get a bad 
>> action off my chest.  Today, I was coming home with some baked goods after 
>> my ride in Nyack, NY on my Rambouillet, set up with a big saddle 
>> bag..Clearly not a race type looking bicycle.  I was on a road with a 
>> narrow shoulder and riding near the white line.  I saw a pack of cyclists 
>> bearing down on me, maybe at least 20 strong.  My first mistake was to ride 
>> inside the white line instead of taking the lane, but then again, I was not 
>> sure how they would react and did not want to cause a pile up.  They passed 
>> me without any warning and were perhaps 6 inches away from me.  There was a 
>> sewer drain in front of me.  Rather than move toward the center of the road 
>> to allow me to avoid it, they ran me right into it.  I was able to slow 
>> enough to get over it.  (One of those sunken-in type drains with oval 
>> holes, not bicycle friendly.)  As all this was proceeding, the combination 
>> of surprise, fear of dumping the bike, and just consternation that a group 
>> of cyclists would treat a fellow cyclist like this, I said, quite 
>> clearly...A**h*les.  (How hard would it have been to move to the center of 
>> the road? How hard would it have been to alert me to their presence.)  It 
>> was dumb move on my part.  Not taking the lane and then allowing my 
>> emotions to get the best of me.  (Nothing happened after 
>> thatfortunately, they were too much into their ride and keeping pace 
>> that no one stopped or challenged me back.)  I confession is in order for 
>> today I guess.
>>
>> It is an unfair question as this group was not there, but would you have 
>> taken the lane?  Would you have trusted them to react accordingly?  If I 
>> had more warning, I would have stopped and dismounted an went onto the 
>> sidewalk until they passed;  however they really were moving.  I saw them 
>> in the distance in my rearview mirror, and the then they were on top of me. 
>>
>> Jay,
>> Demarest, NJ
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Remember Islabikes?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

As Brewster Fong stated, Islabikes still offer their traditional series. I 
just got a Beinn 26 for my son after reading about it on Bicycle Quarterly 
and was quite impressed with its functionality and quality. It's a solid 
and simple bike, which is just right for my son who's not terribly 
interested in bikes, except as a tool to get to his friends'. I originally 
wanted to get a Clem for my son, but even the smallest Clem is a bit too 
big.


On Wednesday, May 25, 2016 at 2:03:46 PM UTC-7, LeahFoy wrote:
>
> You may remember my past thread about needing a good bike for my 7 year 
> old child. The List graciously pointed me to Islabikes. The Portland dealer 
> was lovely; the rep asked what I ride, and was very complimentary upon 
> hearing it is a Rivendell. Islabikes create bikes that just make good sense 
> - ergonomics aside, they have provisions for racks and panniers and 
> fenders, good stuff. I began to think of them as "Riv-ish." 
>
> Imagine my dismay today when I saw the unveiling of their new "pro line" 
> of bikes. Carbon forks! In children's bikes! Lighter carbon than their 
> competitors, even! Oh, let's not even tell Grant. Not after yesterday's 
> BLUG post...
> http://www.islabikes.com/pro-research-and-development/
>

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[RBW] Re: Smaller Riv sizing

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Something is off. I have a PBH of 81.0 cm and am 5'10" tall (yeah, short 
legs; Grant measured PBH twice). My saddle height is between 70 and 70.5 
cm, and this range is essentially what a few different calculators 
(including Riv's) recommend. You either measured a parameter differently 
from norm, you use super-long cranks, or your saddle height is way too low.

On Saturday, July 2, 2016 at 9:37:14 AM UTC-7, Andrew Huston wrote:
>
> Yes. My PBH is 84. I wear a 30 inseam in pants. Saddle height measured in 
> my MB6 and Jonesis 70cm. I'm gauging that my saddle height may indicate 
> longer torso than legs, 5'10" btw. I'm not sure if this all adds up but 
> I've measured multiple times and this is what I get. 

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[RBW] Re: What deals they were!

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

When did the Atlantis price go up? I thought it was slowly creeping up and 
jumped only recently when they became order-only from Waterford rather than 
an ongoing production model from Toyo.

FWIW, the yen-dollar exchange rate hovered around 110-120 between '96 and 
'07, before it broke the ¥100:$1 mark in '08. The mid-80's were obviously 
the "good times" when the rate was better than ¥200:$1 in the dollar's 
favor. Imagine Atlantises for $550 (with the reference here being 
Atlantises for about $950 in 2001, but not including inflation).

See: http://research.stlouisfed.org/fred2/data/EXJPUS.txt


On Saturday, December 14, 2013 7:45:44 AM UTC-8, Garth wrote:
>
>
> FWIW  The Atlantis was originally under 1K in '99 !  !   That was when 
> the Yen was more favorable to the USD ... then it flipped  !  
>

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[RBW] Re: Cable End Soldering

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

It is possible to solder stainless if you use the right flux. Look for 
stainless-specific flux; they usually contain zinc chloride and 
hydrochloric acid (read: ensure adequate ventilation). You'll want to fray 
out the individual strands a bit to clean them with alcohol or something 
similar before applying the flux, and you'll want to be careful with that 
flux since it's not the gentlest thing in the world.

I still occasionally solder my (stainless) cable ends. In fact, for the 
cantilever straddle cable ends, I usually put a dollop of solder (i.e., 
excess) at the end to make a "bulb" (like a spring onion!) so that it's 
easier to grab ahold of. It's a nice conversation piece for the keen eyes.


On Monday, December 30, 2013 7:26:53 AM UTC-8, George Schick wrote:
>
> The comment about unsolder-able stainless cables replacing the old 
> galvanized ones is spot on.  I used to like to solder mine, too - can't do 
> it any more, though.  However, I do like the idea of placing a small piece 
> of heat shrink on the ends - never thought about doing that before, but 
> it's a good one.
>
>
> On Monday, December 30, 2013 5:31:35 AM UTC-6, Michael Glaser wrote:
>>
>> I'm a huge fan of old school mechanics techniques, but the reason that no 
>> one solders cables anymore is that stainless has all but displaced 
>> galvanized steel for cables on nicely-spec'd bikes.  And apart from being 
>> able to take solder, galvanized cables have nothing on good quality 
>> stainless cables when it comes to smoothness and longevity.  
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Cable End Soldering

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

You are, of course, correct. However, untwisting the strands a bit to clean 
the ends does not necessary mean they cannot be twisted back to their 
original twisted configuration. The stainless strands are quite strong and 
thus have a bit to go before exceeding their yield and becoming permanently 
frayed.


On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 3:41:57 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 12/30/2013 11:17 PM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote: 
> > You'll want to fray out the individual strands a bit to clean them 
> > with alcohol or something similar before applying the flux, 
>
> I thought the entire point of the exercise was to prevent the individual 
> strands from fraying out.   Open that box & even Pandora couldn't get 
> them back in. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: New bike siting: Cheviut/Cheviot/Chevrolet?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

That's a pretty Bonty! I have a friend whose Trek is two toned, except his 
was differentially toned laterally. It cost him quite a bit to get two sets 
of parts in two colors so that the color schemes are maintained on each 
side. Madness! Even from an OCDer.


On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 12:14:20 PM UTC-8, Philip Williamson wrote:
>
> I like the two-tone bartape! Obviously... 
> http://flic.kr/p/a3vUWP
>  
>
> Philip
> www.biketinker.com
>

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[RBW] Re: New bike siting: Cheviut/Cheviot/Chevrolet?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I thought both males and females have hearts. Or at least they both should. 
:)


On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 12:44:13 PM UTC-8, Johnny Alien wrote:
>
> I really like the looks of it but don't know why they chose to put the 
> hearts on a "gender neutral" bike.  Other than that I dig everything else.
>

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Re: [RBW] Tire Width and Performance

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I don't know. Let's do a thought experiment. Let's assume that the wheels 
have a very high rotational inertia. Wouldn't that smooth out the sine wave 
you're talking about? The slowing down part is when rotational 
potential+kinetic energy gets converted to potential energy against 
gravity. Using a high rotational inertia will actually help in maintaining 
speed (to whatever extent it does) and thus create lower amplitude sine 
waves.

On Thursday, January 2, 2014 6:05:31 PM UTC-8, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> When you're climbing a steep grade, you're not maintaining a constant 
> speed.  If you graphed your speed over time, with time on the x-axis, you'd 
> see something resembling a sine wave.  But your speedometer may not 
> register a change in speed because its averaging the speed over an 
> integration interval of probably several seconds.  In this case I would 
> agree that rotational weight can clearly be felt, much more than static 
> weight.
>
> Anton
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New bike siting: Cheviut/Cheviot/Chevrolet?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, January 3, 2014 3:52:02 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 01/03/2014 05:55 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote: 
> > Maybe it's the prototype and Riv caught that detail and the production 
> > ones will have it further back? 
> > Maybe it's on-purpose for those who will not run fenders and will run 
> > knobbies, for less mud stack-up down there? 
> > 
> Misplaced chain stay bridge for good fender line is a common defect in 
> Rivendell designs.  A friend of mine has an Atlantis whose chain stay 
> bridge is positioned so far from ideal she needed to use the full length 
> of a wine cork as a spacer in order to get a decent fender line.   
> Although providing ample clearance for fenders is high on the list, 
> sweating the details for perfect permanent mounting doesn't get much 
> attention.  (After all, consider the whole zip-tie the fenders on 
> thing...) 
>


I haven't paid too much attention to this parameter on other Rivendells, 
but at least on my two (including one Atlantis), the bridges were 
equidistant to the dropout. Particularly on the Atlantis, there is so much 
built-in space around the wheels that I had to use 25mm standoffs on both 
seat stay and chain stay bridges to get a good fender line. This is with an 
aluminum fender and the Compass 26x1.75 tire. Nevertheless, I don't 
consider equidistant bridges (albeit with excess space) to be "misplaced".

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[RBW] Re: DIY Lug Lining

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, January 3, 2014 9:24:54 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> Holy crap, Bobby.  That is so freaking hot.  I NEED to do that.  I'm off 
> to buy stainless Berthoud fenders at BoxDog tomorrow.  They are gonna get 
> STRIPED.  FACT!
>

If you're going to the trouble of buying pinstriper tape, may I suggest you 
get some 1/8" or 1/4" wide 3M reflective tape instead? There's an eBay 
seller with such items (no relations other than a customer) and this can 
add an additional margin of safety together with the vanity. The 3M tape 
comes in a variety of colors and it's flexible/stretchable (to some extent) 
so it will conform to surfaces with compound curves. Here's how I know it 
works...

Atlantis with 1/8" wide green reflective 3M pinstripe down the rear 
fender: http://www.flickr.com/photos/benzzoy/11698786906/
Atlantis with pinstriped crank 
arms: http://www.flickr.com/photos/benzzoy/11698394814/
Boulder All Road with 1" wide red reflective 3M "pinstripe" on the rear 
fender: http://www.flickr.com/photos/benzzoy/11342458915/

My next project is to pinstripe the rims on commuter. The tape will go 
around the circumference of the rim just inboard of the brake tracks.

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Re: [RBW] Gränsfors Bruk Factory Tour vid

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Sunday, January 5, 2014 1:59:42 PM UTC-8, AaronY wrote:
>
> Yeah, I was kind of surprised by the power hammer.  It makes sense, of 
> course, but in my imagination I thought there would be some olde tyme forge 
> and a blacksmith type guy (blonde haired of course because its Sweden) with 
> a leather apron who would hammer a glowing hunk of ore into just the right 
> shape.  Show's you what I know... 
>

If you want that, the axes will probably cost a few times its current 
price. I've been watching some blacksmithing videos on Youtube and I must 
say that the hand forging process, although romantic and nostalgic, is very 
time-consuming, not to mention very hard work. Like this, for example:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijo2qDbH290

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Re: [RBW] Gränsfors Bruk Factory Tour vid

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Here's a nice video about John Neeman axes and their production.

http://vimeo.com/37360333

These are like the Gränsfors Bruk axes, in that both are similarly 
top-shelf products. However, the John Neeman axes are truly hand-made, with 
an olde tyme blacksmith hammering away at a glowing hunk of steel and a 
carpenter buddy/partner meticulously shaping the hickory handles to match 
the individual axe blades. The prices reflect that too, starting at $290 
for a small axe, to $680 for a hewing axe. If you wander onto their 
website, it may be worthwhile checking out their 320-layer Damascus steel 
bladed kitchen knives.


On Sunday, January 5, 2014 5:14:10 PM UTC-8, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>
> On Sunday, January 5, 2014 1:59:42 PM UTC-8, AaronY wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, I was kind of surprised by the power hammer.  It makes sense, of 
>> course, but in my imagination I thought there would be some olde tyme forge 
>> and a blacksmith type guy (blonde haired of course because its Sweden) with 
>> a leather apron who would hammer a glowing hunk of ore into just the right 
>> shape.  Show's you what I know... 
>>
>
> If you want that, the axes will probably cost a few times its current 
> price. I've been watching some blacksmithing videos on Youtube and I must 
> say that the hand forging process, although romantic and nostalgic, is very 
> time-consuming, not to mention very hard work. Like this, for example:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijo2qDbH290
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice/WTB: Dynamo wheel and/or light

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I've bought from both Tree Fort Bikes and Outside Outfitters. Both had been 
good to me and I can recommend them as a satisfied customer. The "Shimano 
Dynamo" wheel from Outside Outfitters probably requires a bit of 
investigation as Shimano make quite a few dynamo hubs.

You may also want to consider SP* dynamo hubs as they are similar in 
performance to the premium Schmidt SON dynamo hubs while being a lot 
cheaper. I am running one (model PV-8) on my commuter for more than a year 
and it has been flawless. In fact, based on this experience, I just built 
up a set for *my* Atlantis and recommended them as an option to friends who 
are also investigating dynamo lights. I don't have any experience with 
Shimano dynamo hubs although I do have a few SONs.

If you're concerned with security, you may want to consider tacking on the 
price for security skewers, such as the ones made by Pitlock.

* SP = Shutter Precision; apparently they used to/still make photographic 
shutters



On Monday, January 20, 2014 10:03:39 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Whoops, perhaps only in 650B. But:
>
>
> http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222373552/113/Quality-Wheels-700c-Front.html?gclid=CMrY6KCrjbwCFYhcMgodCyUAbQ
>
> Alfine, too.
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 11:02 AM, Patrick Moore 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> I have no experience with these people, but they sell a dynamo front 
>> wheel:
>>
>>
>> http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-24222-handspun-pavement-series-front-wheels.aspx?variantID=72117&gclid=CJ2UntyqjbwCFa5FMgodS1QA8Q
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 10:56 AM, William! 
>> 
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> I realize I didn't mention much about my setup. It's 700c Atlantis that 
>>> I use to commute every day. I also do occasional longer rides, brevets and 
>>> tours but I am more concerned about price than theoretical performance 
>>> (i.e. having the very best). Particularly because I lock this bike up on 
>>> the curb almost every day. Current wheelset is 36H Velocity Dyads laced to 
>>> Deore XT, I ride Jack Browns on top. I'd be replacing just the front wheel 
>>> unless I found a good deal on a set.
>>>
>>> William
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 20, 2014 9:31:47 AM UTC-8, William! wrote:

 I've been meaning to get a dynamo set up on my bike for the last 5 
 years or so. Anyone have something sitting around that'd get me up and 
 running? Or maybe just a pointer on where to get started.

 Thanks,
 William

>>>  -- 
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> Burque (NM)
>>  
>> Resumes that get interviews:
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>>
>>  
>
>
> -- 
> Burque (NM)
>  
> Resumes that get interviews:
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>
>  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Advice/WTB: Dynamo wheel and/or light

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Hi Jim,

In SP-parlance,

PV-8 = Rim brake dynamo hub for larger wheels*, roughly equivalent to the 
SON 28.
SV-8 = Rim brake dynamo hub for smaller wheels (or lower resistance/lower 
power with larger wheels), roughly equivalent to the SON*delux.*


The "V" denotes rim brake use, meaning no disc brake tabs. If you want disc 
brake tabs, you need to get the corresponding "D" versions, such as the 
PD-8 or SD-8. I have no clue what the "8" denotes.

* The cutoff here is apparent 26", where 26" and larger = larger wheels.


On Monday, January 20, 2014 6:50:39 PM UTC-8, Jim Bronson wrote:
>
> That's very interesting about SP hubs, didn't know about them.  Their 
> website is a bit confusing though, what's the difference between the 
> PV-8 and the SV-8, other than 23 grams and $13 at current exchange 
> rates?  Both appear to be for rim brakes, have a 60mm hub diameter and 
> a 100mm OLD. 
>
> http://www.sp-dynamo.com/8seriesdynamo%20hub.html 
>
> Do they have any resellers in the US?  I would have to take a real 
> deep swallow to order direct from a foreign site with basically no 
> recourse other than the credit card company. 
>
> On the other hand, the SV-8 is currently $128 as compared to the SON 
> at $282 on Peter White's website. 
>
> Disclaimer:  I currently own both a Son 28 classic laced to a 700c 
> wheel and the 650b Shimano dynamo wheel that Patrick linked to from 
> Outside Outfitters. 
>
>
>
> On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 12:59 PM, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA 
> > wrote: 
> > I've bought from both Tree Fort Bikes and Outside Outfitters. Both had 
> been 
> > good to me and I can recommend them as a satisfied customer. The 
> "Shimano 
> > Dynamo" wheel from Outside Outfitters probably requires a bit of 
> > investigation as Shimano make quite a few dynamo hubs. 
> > 
> > You may also want to consider SP* dynamo hubs as they are similar in 
> > performance to the premium Schmidt SON dynamo hubs while being a lot 
> > cheaper. I am running one (model PV-8) on my commuter for more than a 
> year 
> > and it has been flawless. In fact, based on this experience, I just 
> built up 
> > a set for my Atlantis and recommended them as an option to friends who 
> are 
> > also investigating dynamo lights. I don't have any experience with 
> Shimano 
> > dynamo hubs although I do have a few SONs. 
> > 
> > If you're concerned with security, you may want to consider tacking on 
> the 
> > price for security skewers, such as the ones made by Pitlock. 
> > 
> > * SP = Shutter Precision; apparently they used to/still make 
> photographic 
> > shutters 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > On Monday, January 20, 2014 10:03:39 AM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote: 
> >> 
> >> Whoops, perhaps only in 650B. But: 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> http://www.treefortbikes.com/product/333222373552/113/Quality-Wheels-700c-Front.html?gclid=CMrY6KCrjbwCFYhcMgodCyUAbQ
>  
> >> 
> >> Alfine, too. 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 11:02 AM, Patrick Moore  
> wrote: 
> >>> 
> >>> I have no experience with these people, but they sell a dynamo front 
> >>> wheel: 
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> 
> http://www.outsideoutfitters.com/p-24222-handspun-pavement-series-front-wheels.aspx?variantID=72117&gclid=CJ2UntyqjbwCFa5FMgodS1QA8Q
>  
> >>> 
> >>> 
> >>> On Mon, Jan 20, 2014 at 10:56 AM, William!  
> >>> wrote: 
> >>>> 
> >>>> I realize I didn't mention much about my setup. It's 700c Atlantis 
> that 
> >>>> I use to commute every day. I also do occasional longer rides, 
> brevets and 
> >>>> tours but I am more concerned about price than theoretical 
> performance (i.e. 
> >>>> having the very best). Particularly because I lock this bike up on 
> the curb 
> >>>> almost every day. Current wheelset is 36H Velocity Dyads laced to 
> Deore XT, 
> >>>> I ride Jack Browns on top. I'd be replacing just the front wheel 
> unless I 
> >>>> found a good deal on a set. 
> >>>> 
> >>>> William 
> >>>> 
> >>>> 
> >>>> On Monday, January 20, 2014 9:31:47 AM UTC-8, William! wrote: 
> >>>>> 
> >>>>> I've been meaning to get a dynamo set up on my bike for the last 5 
> >>>>> years or so. Anyone have something sitting around that'd get me up 
> and 
> >>>>

[RBW] Re: Michelin Pro-Tek tubes... anyone try them?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I've been running a Michelin Protek Max tube for about a few weeks when I 
saw your original post. I thought I wouldn't reply since I don't really get 
that many flats and it had *only* been a few weeks. Well, today, my 
Protek-tubed rear wheel ran into a nail-like device and flatted, just like 
an ordinary tube. It flatted more slowly, but I was still walking within 3 
blocks. I was surprised by a bit of goo leakage that is probably not unlike 
Slime tubes (never used one so I can't really say) and I hope that won't 
complicate patching this tube up.

So, the Protek tubes aren't miracle workers and the air leak isn't really 
stopped by whatever fancy tube shape or goo that's inside the tube. It did 
deflate more slowly but the effect wasn't dramatic and the tube certainly 
wasn't performing to what Michelin had advertised/purported. So, despite 
not performing a case control study, I probably won't buy Protek Max tubes 
again as they are more expensive and I find normal Michelin C4 tubes to be 
totally adequate.


On Sunday, January 19, 2014 3:15:12 PM UTC-8, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>
> http://www.bicyclebuys.com/item/0601465/michelin-a3-protek-max-700x35-42-self-sealing-tube-presta
>
> After a fun outing spent clearing out goatheads today, the topic turned to 
> these tubes. Gimmicky or do they work? Stans sealant worked great BTW, so 
> did having thick touring tires and being the last one up the hill!
>
> Proof of a good time: 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/12039011594/
>
>
> Cheers,
> David
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal
>
>
>
>  

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Re: [RBW] Down tube friction shfiters and 9-cog cassettes

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Hi Jim,

Although the Silver shifter is half-ratchety and half-friction, there is 
something one can do to mitigate the "in between" situation you've 
described - overshift on the ratchet side and then pull back on the 
friction side. Remember that every time one shifts on the friction side, 
the "home position" of the shifter changes as the ratchet/toothed wheel is 
dragged along for the shift. This means that Silver shifters are not like 
index shifters with predefined positions for each indent.



On Wednesday, February 5, 2014 2:55:45 AM UTC-8, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
Cyclery wrote:
>
> I'd stick with 7/8 sp cassettes. Here's why. Riv's Silver shifter isn't a 
> true friction shifter, but a ratchet. That means the shifter has a finite 
> number of stops rather than an infinite number of positions in true 
> friction. If you try to shift to a position between the ratchet clicks, the 
> shifter will be pulled by the derailleur spring to the next click rather 
> than staying between clicks where you put it! So if you shift to where the 
> derailleur moves the chain to the perfect position over the desired cog... 
> As soon as you take your hand off the shifter, the shifter relaxes into the 
> next ratchet click, and the perfect alignment is gone. We've found that 
> these shifters "work" with 9sp cassettes but that there are always a few 
> noisy gears where the ratchet clicks don't allow the derailleur to line up 
> perfectly with the cogs (made worse because 9sp cassettes have ramps for 
> easy shifting at the slightest hint on a movement of the chain). I believe 
> most people who detect this noise simply "trim" the shift until they chain 
> is riding on a different cog that more closely aligns with one of the 
> clicks. In practice, your 9 sp cassette has only 6 or 7 gears that will be 
> tolerably non-noisy. You could ride for years and not notice this, of 
> course, constantly attributing the noise to simply needing to trim the 
> shift, always landing on a cog adjacent to the cog that you really want to 
> be in. But in the repair stand, it's obvious when you try to shift through 
> the range one gear at a time.

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[RBW] Re: Cambium Test. & Stainless Steel Spoke Corrosion? & 7-speed Hubs?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Monday, August 11, 2014 12:43:44 PM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
>
> Question then:
> Will stainless steel spokes corrode over time?
>

The short answer is yes, stainless steel will corrode given the appropriate 
environment.

But we're talking about high concentrations of chloride and under acidic 
conditions. Do you see that under normal riding conditions?

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[RBW] Re: FS: bike purge yard sale in Portland this Sunday, 9/7

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Hi Andrew,

I will take the grab bag of Silca floor pump parts and steel Campy pump 
heads for $30, if you can ship them to CA 94087. I will also take the Silca 
Impero frame pump w/steel campy head for $20 if you can verify that it is 
in good condition and the compressed length is below 52.0 cm with the Campy 
pump head.

Thanks!

Sincerely,
Benz



On Thursday, September 4, 2014 8:11:17 AM UTC-7, Andrew Drummond wrote:
>
> I’ve built myself a new frame that’ll do pretty much everything all my 
> other bikes needed to do, so it’s time to clean out the shed. I’m selling 
> my 2001 custom Rivendell and a whole bunch of other vintage/BOB-ish bike 
> stuff, tools, etc at my yard sale in Portland, Oregon this Sunday, 9/7, but 
> I’m giving the BOB/Riv lists first crack at everything.  There will be 
> more than what’s listed, but this is the stuff I thought would be most 
> interesting to you all. If there’s something you’re interested in, get in 
> touch – I’m happy to ship, but don’t really want to make a second job of 
> it. That having been said, it all has to go, so if I have to ship I will. 
> Given past experiences I’ve had selling on the lists , I need to ask for 
> payment within three days of claiming an item. Paypal works, as do USPS 
> money orders and cash. Most every experience has been great, but if you 
> tell me you want something then two weeks later get upset because I sold it 
> to someone else because you never paid for it, sorry – I can’t hold on to 
> things indefinitely. Please reply off-list. Prices do not include shipping, 
> but everything is negotiable. It needs to go!
>
> If you’re local, come by – there’s going to be lots more besides bike 
> stuff, like tools, photography equipment, etc. NE 79th and Sandy, follow 
> the green signs.
>
> Photos of everything are coming shortly; hopefully tonight but we’ll see.
>
> Now, on to the stuff:
>
> *61cm 700c Rivendell longlow-ish frame, built for me by Curt Goodrich in 
> 2001. Detailed specs:*
>
> 700c
>
> 61cm seat tube (77 saddle height)
>
> 58 effective top tube
>
> HT angle 72.5
>
> ST angle 72
>
> Rake 45mm
>
> BB drop 80mm
>
> Chainstay length 440mm
>
> Cantilever brakes
>
> Three water bottle mounts
>
> Two eyelets front and rear
>
> Horizontal dropouts
>
> Tapered downtube (31.8 at BB, 28.6 at HT, .9-.6-.9)
>
> 28.6 top tube (.8-.6-.8)
>
> double tapered 16mm seat stays (heavy, for loaded riding)
>
> straight, round/oval/round, dented chainstays
>
> 1.1mm True Temper fork blades
>
> It’s pretty similar to an Atlantis geometry-wise, but with the narrower 
> RC03 crown, straight/dented chain stays, and double taper seat stays. It’s 
> probably a little heavy for me (I’m 5-10/150), but I asked for a loaded 
> tourer, so that’s what I got. It’s thirteen years old, so it has some minor 
> paint chips and scuffs, particularly around the dropouts, but no dents or 
> real damage. Paint is the original fancy-detailed Imron Garnet Red Metallic 
> by JB. *$1400*
>
> *Kids’ 20 inch (451mm) lugged road-ish bike*. I think it’s a Free Spirit. 
> Newly powder coated sparkly purple.  Tektro R365 dual pivot brakes, Deore 
> thumbshifter (I’ll throw the second one in case you want to put another 
> chainring on there), Nitto hi-crown stem, Primo Comet tires, six speed 
> freewheel, 600 rear derailleur, Tange levin headset, kickstand, 
> custom-shortened Deore cranks (135mm). Front hub is kind of an oddball – 
> it’s a 90mm wide axle. I shortened a CODA hub, so now it has replaceable 
> cartridge bearings. DT has water bottle bosses. Weird things about it: the 
> aforementioned front axle spacing, and the seat tube isn’t reamed very deep 
> so you need a pretty short seatpost. *$130*
>
> *Raleigh Mountie girl’s bike.* 20” wheels, everything seems to work. Real 
> short cranks, though. Circa mid-70s. *$40*
>
> *Diamond Back girl’s 16” cruiser. $40*
>
> *Skuut balance bike*, cosmetically…functional. Works great. *$30*
>
>  
>
> *The parts:*
>
> 1.  Shimano 600 BL-6208 non-aero levers, blackhoods, used $10
>
> 2.  Vintage Campagnolo levers, not sure of model, gum hoods in great 
> condition, light rash on the levers. Nearly identical dimensionally to the 
> Superbes, but a bit shorter lengthwise. Flying skewer logo. $40
>
> 3.  Suntour Superbe or Superbe Pro (not sure what the difference is) 
> levers, light use, black hoods, both are R side levers (difference is in 
> the texture on the levers) $30
>
> 4.  Suntour Superbe or Superbe Pro levers, used, with a little rash. 
> Gum hoods look good, but I wouldn’t turn them inside out. $30
>
> 5.  Two sets of Shimano Exage (with button QR, NOS) – I just bought 
> thes

[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Although it is true that the Garmins do not require anything more than a 
quick charge, the speed reading without the optional speed/cadence sensor 
tends to jump around. While I don't believe this impact average speed much, 
I can't stand the lack of precision from such a measuring device (without 
its optional speed/cadence sensor that further optionally can be 
calibrated).

The Cateye Strada wireless units are (relatively cheap), have big main 
numbers (speed), only need a battery change once every year or so, and is 
better than 1% accurate even if you follow the lookup table on the 
instruction sheet. You don't have to break out your measuring tape and 
inscribe markings on the garage floor if you don't want to, although doing 
so will give you better than ppt (parts per thousand) accuracy.

The Knog meters are more or less a joke because of their mounting system. 
They use the same silicone straps that are quite useful on lights but are 
dreadful on both the display/head and sensor units. The straps slip easily. 
I have two sets that I got cheap but I don't use anymore.


On Monday, September 15, 2014 12:40:19 AM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>
> though you can probably get a nice basic unit for 1/100 the $$, the garmin 
> 510 is nice. Being gps it needs no wires or wheel magnets or pickups. It 
> can be mounted on your bars or just thrown in a pocket or bag. You can load 
> routes to it and have it beep at you when turns are coming up. you can pick 
> what and how much info is displayed on the screen at one time, and you can 
> set up several screens that you can page through or just stick with one.
>
> On Sunday, September 14, 2014 8:39:48 PM UTC-7, Neil wrote:
>>
>> Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike 
>> computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the 
>> like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless, 
>> and a small, modest screen.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Neil
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] suggestions for a bike computer?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I read a lot about interfere with wireless cyclocomputers from generator 
lights but I don't see it. Granted, I only use two wireless systems now 
(Cateye and the optional Garmin Speed/Cadence sensor) but across all my 
bikes with generator hubs (Schmidt, SP & Shimano), I've never had an 
interference issue. What I have observed is that my cyclocomputers 
occasionally go out but those instances are correlated with areas I ride 
through rather than proximity my dynamo hubs. Have those who have 
interference use Cateye with verified-good batteries?


On Monday, September 15, 2014 8:35:29 PM UTC-4, EricP wrote:
>
> I'm a wired Cateye person.  Velo 8 and Velo 9 on two bikes, The Same 
> Hillborne has an older model.  Why wired?  Am used to them.  Don't have to 
> worry if adding a battery light to the bike.  And when I tried a a couple 
> of wireless models had issues with them.  Mainly unreliable readings due to 
> other apparent transmitters near where I was riding.
>
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>
> On Mon, Sep 15, 2014 at 6:41 PM, Jim Bronson  > wrote:
>
>> I picked up a wireless unit at Performance Bike recently for 19.99.  
>> Axiom brand.  It seems to do it's duties well, can't say i have any 
>> complaints about it.  Good value for the money.
>> On Sep 14, 2014 11:22 PM, "Neil" > 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike 
>>> computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the 
>>> like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless, 
>>> and a small, modest screen.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>>
>>> Neil
>>>
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>>>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: suggestions for a bike computer?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'm not sure if it is specific to my 500 or includes other units. 
Certainly, the jumps are small but they are noticeable and consistent, even 
when under clear skies and constant speed on a straight road. They do 
disappear abruptly when the Garmin sensor is installed which gave some a 
clue. Nevertheless, the speed that GPS-based units display must be 
calculated instead of measured like with the Cateyes. If GPS signal isn't 
optimal, it is conceivable (doesn't mean it's the real reason) that the 
calculation reveals the lag in positioning.


On Monday, September 15, 2014 9:35:14 PM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>
> I have never noticed the speed reading jumping around on my Garmin 510, 
> exepct when I hooked up a speed cadence sensor and didn't set the wheel 
> size.
> I this erratic speed reading you speak of a feature of all Garmin units? 
> Is it limited to those that don't use GLONASS and GPS? Is it all the time 
> every where or limited to specific situations? 
>
> On Monday, September 15, 2014 5:45:53 PM UTC-7, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>>
>> Although it is true that the Garmins do not require anything more than a 
>> quick charge, the speed reading without the optional speed/cadence sensor 
>> tends to jump around. While I don't believe this impact average speed much, 
>> I can't stand the lack of precision from such a measuring device (without 
>> its optional speed/cadence sensor that further optionally can be 
>> calibrated).
>>
>> The Cateye Strada wireless units are (relatively cheap), have big main 
>> numbers (speed), only need a battery change once every year or so, and is 
>> better than 1% accurate even if you follow the lookup table on the 
>> instruction sheet. You don't have to break out your measuring tape and 
>> inscribe markings on the garage floor if you don't want to, although doing 
>> so will give you better than ppt (parts per thousand) accuracy.
>>
>> The Knog meters are more or less a joke because of their mounting system. 
>> They use the same silicone straps that are quite useful on lights but are 
>> dreadful on both the display/head and sensor units. The straps slip easily. 
>> I have two sets that I got cheap but I don't use anymore.
>>
>>
>> On Monday, September 15, 2014 12:40:19 AM UTC-4, ted wrote:
>>>
>>> though you can probably get a nice basic unit for 1/100 the $$, the 
>>> garmin 510 is nice. Being gps it needs no wires or wheel magnets or 
>>> pickups. It can be mounted on your bars or just thrown in a pocket or bag. 
>>> You can load routes to it and have it beep at you when turns are coming up. 
>>> you can pick what and how much info is displayed on the screen at one time, 
>>> and you can set up several screens that you can page through or just stick 
>>> with one.
>>>
>>> On Sunday, September 14, 2014 8:39:48 PM UTC-7, Neil wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Despite historical resistance to the idea, I am contemplating a bike 
>>>> computer for my Sam, the better with which to follow cue sheets and the 
>>>> like. Any suggestions from the Bunch? I suppose I would prefer wireless, 
>>>> and a small, modest screen.
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Neil
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Rain Gear

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'm from the San Francisco bay area so I don't know if I have enough 
credibility to offer my suggestion. Nevertheless, we do have about a month 
or two of cold (almost freezing to high 40°F) rain during the winter months 
(or at least expect to have; didn't happen last season). It is also 
pertinent to state that our rain here isn't tropical-heavy. It is 
consistently light-to-moderate and light winds can be expected. I should 
also state that my regular wet-weather bike have full fenders, front and 
rear.

I too have all sorts of high-tech jackets and pants but like others have 
similarly found, it's your own sweat that'll do you in. Even the vaulted 
Showers Pass jackets with the pit zips didn't really do it for me. What I 
found works best is a bike poncho. I had a crappy semi-disposable one that 
I used as proof-of-concept and when that worked, I splurged on the 
Rivendell's Grunden  version 
(even bought the hat ).

To be clear, you'll look like a dork dressed in the "flying tent". But 
you'll be a dry dork. Most of the time, I don't even have to cover my 
Brooks saddle because the poncho keeps everything dry, even at traffic 
lights. And even though a poncho isn't airy like nothing at all, it's still 
noticeably better than any GoreTex jacket I have. You may need waterproof 
boots if you ride faster than about 10 or 12mph. I think the Rivendell 
splats  and shinguards 
 are intended as companion 
devices, but I just put on my Showers Pass pants 
 and shoe covers 
 to avoid 
diving deeper into dorkdom.

You can wear your normal clothes over all these, and it doesn't take 10 
minutes to degown from your super-hardman outfit when you're at your 
destination. As a bonus, you will also have a ready halloween costume as 
the Gorton fisherman or Paddington bear (don't ask). Don't underestimate 
this as we'll be in October tomorrow. ;)

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[RBW] Re: Please help me with my Honjo fork crown problem please.

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'm not sure what this concern is about. 3mm of space between the end of a 
bolt and the tire is plenty as it's not zero. The tire's never going to 
expand and the crown daruma bolt isn't going to drop. In addition, it is 
very unlikely that something's going to get caught at the very narrow 
constriction. This isn't at all like 3mm of space in the wheel well between 
fender and tire. In fact, I suspect my stay darumas and fender flap 
mounting bolts probably protrude quite a bit into the wheel well, to no ill 
effect over thousands of miles. Of course, having stated this, I'll 
probably have my fenders crumple in some freak accident the next time I 
ride.

Although the recessed brake nut trick is spiffy, one has to wonder if the 
relatively small lip on the nut is adequate for holding up an aluminum 
fender long-term. I suspect that the aluminum fender may crack around that 
area over time, due to localized stress.


On Wednesday, October 29, 2014 12:15:29 PM UTC-7, Andrew Marchant-Shapiro 
wrote:
>
> One way you can handle the daruma nut problem is to use a recessed brake 
> nut instead of the usual nut.  You can put the spacers on the outside of 
> the nut, and the rim on the recessed nut will save you a few mm.  You will 
> need to enlarge the hole in the fender carefully... But I have done this 
> and it works.  I believe that Campy-style seatpost binder bolts also use 
> the same threading, so if you have one of those around, it could also be 
> used.

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[RBW] Re: FS: Fall 2014 Garage clean out - Big list! Lots of stuff.

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Interest expressed for 786 bag and Flyer S saddle.


On Wednesday, November 12, 2014 12:52:04 PM UTC-8, danmc wrote:
>
> Hurt my knee so ended up going through lots of boxes instead of riding 
> last weekend.
>
> Tried to keep the list as readable as possible. It is a fairly long and 
> not all applicable to this group but I'll start here.
>
> Pictures of most items are here: https://flic.kr/s/aHsk5tFS59
>
> Please email off list to djmcnamara at gmail dot com with any interest or 
> questions
>
> PayPal personal is best. If you want to use regular PayPal add 3% to cover 
> the PP fee. 
>
> Thanks for looking
>
> 
>
>
> Nitto R Water Bottle Cages
> Perfect shape pair - $65 shipped
>
> Tektro CR720 Cantis  Black
> Take offs. Full set Never used - $35 shipped
>
> Dia-Compe non-aero levers
> Great shape. $35 shipped
>
> Hunter Nugz
> Barrel adjusters for Paul canti straddle - $25 shipped
>
> Shimano Nexus 7-speed IGH with coaster brake 650B Dyad
> Hands On Wheels built. Twist shift with cable Very lite use - $225 shipped
>
> Velo Orange Leather Mud Flaps Brown
> Never mounted. Pair $30 shipped
>
> Velo Orange Retro type II cages
> Never used pair - $30 shipped
>
> FSA Metropolis single crankset 45T
> 170 crank. New - $50 shipped
>
> Sugino Impel crankset 42/32/22T
> 175 crank. New - $50 shipped
>
> Shimano Ultegra RD-6600 
> Good Shape. $30 shipped
>
> Shimano Ultegra FD-6500
> Good shape $25 shipped
>
> Shimano 105 Triple 10-Speed FD-5603
> New in box. $45 shipped
>
> Tektro RX 4.1 reverse brake levers
> Good shape. $35 shipped
>
> Tektro RRL TRP Levers - Grey with Black Hoods
> Never used. $50 shipped
>
> Shimano 8/9 speed bar-cons
> Good shape. Scrape on right cover - $40 shipped
>
> Paul Thumbies Black Shimano mount 22.2
> Package opened never mounted. $50 shipped
>
> Rivet Pearl Saddle cro-mo rails Natural 
> Nice saddle. Very light use - $90 shipped
>
> Brooks Flyer Special Honey
> Nice shape. $60 shipped
>
> Brooks B17 Honey
> New in box - $85 shipped
>
> Brooks Flyer S Honey
> Good shape. $55 shipped
>
> Grand Bois Elysées Porteur Bars
> Good shape. $45 shipped
>
> Viva bar tape medium dark blue
> Sealed package 2 rolls - $15 shipped
>
> Toshi bar tape red
> Sealed package 2 rolls - $15 shipped
>
> Viva bar tape medium light blue
> Sealed package 2 rolls - $15 shipped
>
> Selle An-Atomica Leather Bar Tape Black
> Sealed package Includes gel pads. $40 shipped
>
> Brooks Plump grips Honey
> Perfect shape - $45 shipped
>
> Cardiff Julian leather grips - black
> New in package - $25 shipped
>
> Cycle Pro Cork Grips
> New in package - $20 shipped
>
> Nitto bar end plugs Blue
> perfect shape - $18 shipped
>
> Berthoud 786 Saddle Bag - grey
> Good shape. No holes or rips - $60 shipped
>
> Berthoud 192 Bar Bag - Grey
> Good shape. All mounts included - $120 shipped
>
> Berthoud 604 Rear Bag - Grey
> New. Complete. Like a trunk for your bike - $175 shipped
>
> Berthoud 704 Rear Bag - Grey
> New. Complete. Like a small trunk for your bike - $175 shipped
>
> Carradice Barney green with Bagman II support
> Good shape - $90
>
> Schwalbe Marathon Racer 700 x 35c 3 tires
> Wire bead. RaceGuard,Speedgrip - $60 shipped for all 3
>
> Rivendell Fatty Rumpkin 650B x 41
> Folding bead. New in package. Original version - $30 shipped
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, November 20, 2014 10:04:10 AM UTC-8, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:

>
> For the price point that has been discussed, it's going to be extremely 
> hard to beat a 26" Surly LHT, Troll or Ogre.
>

The LHT rides like an old dog. I know because I ride one regularly as my 
commuter/beater. A couple of friends whom I've tried to fit 
bikes-to-budgets/usages also thought it was dull during test rides (without 
me prompting at all). It's utilitarian and good value-for-money, but it's 
not the first bike I'll pick if "joy" is a consideration. For my money, if 
it's close in price and rides much better, it should be an (relatively) 
easy sell.

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[RBW] Re: Tire noise, way OT

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

True dat. My Compass 26" tires are noisy (they hum at speed) but they roll 
quite nicely.


On Friday, May 9, 2014 11:41:30 AM UTC-7, Cyclofiend Jim wrote:
>
> Most of the analysis of rolling resistance for bicycle tires points at 
> casing construction as a much more significant factor WRT rolling 
> resistance.   You can create sound without all that much energy loss, and 
> part of it may be related to the audiological perception of the difference 
> - there's a fair bit of tone/timbre difference which certainly fades and we 
> also probably get used to over time.  But, I'm not sure you find much 
> actual friction effect - the deformation of the casing and the ease with 
> which that occurs has greater impact (if I'm understanding Jan's tests and 
> writings, for example).  
>
> - Jim
>

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[RBW] Re: Carradice Duxback Poncho - Opinions?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I have the whole Rivendell outfit: yellow poncho with yellow fisherman's 
hat. Even with fenders with long flaps, I still need rain pants/shoe covers 
(Showers Pass is good) if I want to be entirely dry at speed (ca. 15 mph). 
If I'm willing to slow down to jogging speed and there isn't much wind, 
then pants/covers aren't really necessary. Mist and splashes from other 
traffic can still be an issue though.

It's funny you likened poncho as a well-ventilated tent because that's what 
my coworkers and fellow bike commuters like to call mine - flying yellow 
tent.


On Wednesday, May 28, 2014 7:58:29 PM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>
> I just received mine in the mail, so I realize it's kinda late for 
> opinions... but wanted to hear from others who own one of these ponchos.   
> I tested it on a short ride *(a very short ride, since it wasn't actually 
> raining, and the neighbors were giving me horrified looks...)* It's very 
> nice quality and it feels like riding a well-ventilated tent on wheels.
>
> One thing I definitely noticed; either my head is too big, or the hood is 
> rather short, barely covering my ears, but offering good peripheral vision 
> (unlike most hoods). I was able to get my helmet to fit over the hood, so I 
> think that works for me.   Question:  Do you find this hood effective, or 
> do you just abandon it altogether? Does your face still get soaked using 
> the hood?  Do you wear your helmet over the hood???
>
> Also, with fenders and poncho do you find you still need additional rain 
> protection (like shoes, spats, legs, etc.?)
>
> I've been really disappointed with my GoreTex jacket and pants (hot and 
> sticky), and I never really considered a poncho until I saw the 
> Carradice.  I have to say I'm really impressed with the quality and feel.  
> Can't wait to really test it out (and turn the neighbors faces 
> from horrified to envious).
>
> Peace,
>
> BB
> *"Rain just makes a good ride better"*
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Garage sale grabs?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Saturday, June 7, 2014 1:36:42 PM UTC-7, Roger wrote:
>
> There were a few beautiful complete bikes: a Betty Foy, robin's egg blue 
> with red fills, and the recent proto-Hunqa. Both may have found forever 
> homes today.
>

The Betty Foy went to a nice older couple who had moved from Florida. I was 
chatting with them while waiting for Miesha to look for a Men's English 
Jacket for me to try on.

I'm quite happy to have snagged a set of NOS Mavic 217 (559) in the 
"sunset" color. They even have 32 spoke holes! I had wanted to grab the 
entire batch of NOS Mavic 217 ("CD" version) until I realized that most had 
40 spoke holes. I guess if I have a tandem, they will be useful but I can't 
remember the last time I saw a 40-hole hub for sale.

Similar on the "Gosh I'm lucky!" scale was a new Campagnolo 
Chorus asymmetrical BB for their triple cranks from about 10 years ago. 
These are hard to find, especially in English threading. This one will pair 
well with the Campagnolo triple that I have been meaning to put on my Riv 
(to replace its current compact double).

T-shirts were $1 each at the end of the garage sale if one needed nice 
T-shirts to wear. I got a "Varsity" type version to show my alliance.

It was also super nice to say hi to the Riv folks, chat with a few whom 
I've not talked to for a while, and gawk at the many nice bikes that 
customers had ridden to the garage sale on.

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[RBW] Re: One week without a front derailleur

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

If you're thinking of replacing the first crank, and are willing to throw 
some money at it, White Industries' ENO or VBC cranks, ENO bash guard 
chainring may be the ticket. It doesn't come in 40T though.

I have a 1x8 on my Surly commuter with your #2 setup. The crank is a 110/74 
triple although I only installed a 35T Surly SS chainring with Sugino chain 
guard and N-Gear Jump Stop chain guide. After a couple of years of riding, 
I have not seen a single problem with derailing yet.



On Sunday, June 15, 2014 5:12:45 AM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> I finally got curious enough to try removing my front shifting and trying 
> to go just my center 36T front ring w/ my 8 speed rear cassette.  After a 
> full week of commuting and bopping around on my Saluki I'm a fan but there 
> are some things that will need to happen.  Couple observations;
>
> -My commute is very flat anyway, I've been doing it on and off single 
> speed on my XO3 anyway so reducing gears wasn't going to be a problem
> -Not having to trim the front derailleur as I shift in the rear is the #1 
> plus in my books
> -As the week went on I made bolder multi cog shifts with my rear shifter 
> (silver friction shifter) which definitely added some pep and interest to 
> my ride
> -I'm not sure why it didn't happen till Th-Fri but I started dropping the 
> chain or ghost shifting the front chain off of the 36T... 
>
> I think I liked the benefits enough to pursue fixing the chain slippage... 
> I'm curious what others may have found as the best products as there are 
> plenty out there.  I'm running a Sugino triple crank right now 24-36-46.  I 
> think I'd like to go either;
>
> -single ring chain ring ~40T w/ chainkeeper
> -keep the triple, put a ~40T in the middle, replace outer ring w/ chain 
> guard and install a chain guide/stop
> -keep the triple as above, jury rig a FD to act as chainkeeper
>
> I'm sure there must be others... any thoughts?
>
> Tony
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Did I miss this? HUB area rack

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

My post isn't about the yet-to-be-released Rivendell/Nitto HAR, but about 
front low-rider racks in general. This is essentially a PSA.

Now, I know that having a single-sided pannier isn't what the cool kids do; 
but I like my single Ortlieb Office Bag for general commuting (laptop, 
clothes, files, plus, plus) and I like my single Ortlieb Front Roller for 
fast commuting (laptop and some files only). I have no need for a 
left-right set of panniers and in fact split my Ortlieb Front Roller set 
with a like-minded friend.

So what has this got to do with the HAR or low-riders in general? Simply 
put, any pannier that's carried single-sided on a front low-rider setup 
will result in unreasonable degraded steering. This unreasonable 
degradation does not happen with rear-mounted single-sided pannier.

So be forewarned! If you like them low-riders and want to get them, know 
that you need to balance them left-right or your neck will be sore from 
trying to man-handle the handlebar straight. And don't even think about 
riding no-hands.


On Monday, June 16, 2014 9:20:31 AM UTC-7, Mike Schiller wrote:
>
> I saw this buried in another thread  http://vimeo.com/87633115 
>   Anybody heard any recent news on the rack 
> and bag?  
> I didn't want to call and bug Riv but I am very curious. Plan to get one 
> as soon as they are available.
>
> ~mike
> Carlsbad Ca.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: One week without a front derailleur

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Hey Tony, if you do go 1xN, and your frame has downtube shifter braze-ons 
(i.e., not just a cable stop), you can consider putting the lovely Japanese 
Crane brass bell on the unused stud. The one with the spring-loaded hammer 
will screw on nicely and the bell will cover the ugly bare stud.

>

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Re: [RBW] Re: One week without a front derailleur

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I can't speak for others, but I only switched to a 1x8 after I noticed I'm 
entirely OK with my 3-speed Brompton for commuting purposes. I rarely spin 
out my 35x11 (Cat 6 racing, yay!) and I've not met a hill I can't climb 
with my 35x32, even with a sometimes heavy load (20 pounds of Lychees, 
laptop, files, clothes, plus, plus) on a fairly heavy commuter.

But why even change? In the spirit that a utility bike should require as 
little maintenance as possible; there's something about optimizing a setup 
that appeals to me. And for fun! What good is it if it's not fun? :)

For what it's worth, my other bikes all have at least doubles and more are 
slowly getting triples with 26T grannies as I slowly accept the fact that 
I'm not nearly as strong as I used to be.


On Monday, June 16, 2014 7:26:25 AM UTC-7, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>
> I don't quite understand what to me seems like a growing aversion to the 
> front derailleur.  Virtually all of my mountain biking friends (except me) 
> seem to be switching to 1x10, swearing it's the greatest innovation 
> since... well since the front derailleur (hah!). If simplicity is what you 
> seek, then fine... run a basic drive train, whether single speed, or a 1 by 
> whatever .  But I seem to be hearing of more people trying to "get along 
> *without* a front derailleur" as if it's like giving up gluten or dairy 
> (simply because they're hearing from others there may be benefit to it).   
> Is this more fashion than function?  Are we being lulled by the industry 
> into swapping out our 2x and 3x in favor of a whole new generation of 1x 
> drivetrains?  I'm not into conspiracy theories, but this one (to me) 
> doesn't resonate with the logical side of my brain (I must be getting old 
> or just plain grouchy, I don't know...).
>
> The front derailleur serves a very deliberate (and valuable) purpose: It 
> enables the use of double and triple chainrings, which in turn enables a 
> wider gear range, AND better chain alignment.  So what's the downside of 
> that?  Dropped chains? Poorly trimmed chain / derailleur rub?  These can be 
> caused by several factors, but the front derailleur itself is not one of 
> them.
>
> I have bikes without front derailleurs (by design), and I love them as 
> much as any bike.  But I especially love the versatility and gear range I 
> get from my front-derailleured bikes... Personally... I will be a FD-lover 
> FOR LIFE!
>
> Peace,
> BB
>
> On Monday, June 16, 2014 10:03:44 AM UTC-4, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>>
>> "Chain is probably too long, but am too lazy to fix it"  - D'oh, thats 
>> the sound of my hand smacking my forehead...I never adjusted my chain 
>> length when I made the change...  chain falling off = chain to loose.  
>> Thanks Eric!  I'm going to give this a try this evening.  I did make it 
>> into work with no chain issue though.
>>  
>> Patrick - Thank you for the links, the n-gear 'what-is' page in 
>> particular makes alot of sense. 
>>  
>> Chris, Benz, Matthew - Looks like I'm in good company with you all in 
>> your use of 1xN for general commuting!  Either that N Stop or the third eye 
>> is probably in my future.  I think I'm sold on the 1xN setup for myself.  
>> In fact I like it so much I may be going the same route on my wife's city 
>> bike as well, she never uses the front shifter anyway but it does sometimes 
>> get bumped.  
>>  
>> I'll provide some pictures when I get my setup settled out.  Thanks 
>> everyone!
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: NITTO spare tire cage

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I know it doesn't fit Hetres. Definitely not the way (skinny tubular) tires 
are intended to fit, and also not angled 90°. It may fit Challenge 
Parigi-Roubaixs but I haven't tried.

If you have a nice-looking bag/toolkit and a pedal strap, it'll serve as a 
conversation piece carrier for those though.



On Wednesday, July 16, 2014 11:59:30 AM UTC-7, David Banzer wrote:
>
> Anybody used one of these? I'd be interested in what size tires fit.
> David
> Chicago
>
> On Tuesday, July 15, 2014 10:33:09 PM UTC-5, lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> Just when you though you couldn't put any more jewelry on your bike:
>>
>> https://www.benscycle.com/p-2102-nitto-spare-tire-cage.aspx?
>>
>

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[RBW] Are Zefal frame pumps really that hard to find?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I've recently decided to buy another frame pump so I don't have to keep 
rotating it to the bike I'm riding at the time. Yes, poor me, having more 
bikes than frame pumps. However, a quick survey of nearby shops revealed 
that Zefal frame pumps are elusive/rare and full-size frame pumps in 
general aren't a common breed. Even the history-rich Cupertino bike shop 
only carries a Blackburn in carbon fiber as their sole full-sized frame 
pump (none in my size though). At least they're not like the young kid at a 
not-to-be-named bike shop off Castro, who tried to hard-sell/push a CO2 
pump on me even though I specifically said full-sized frame pump, because 
"no one carries that kind of pump anymore." I guess he was more right than 
I gave him credit for, unfortunately.

Regardless, do you know of any shop in the Sunnyvale-Cupertino region that 
carries the Zefal HPX-3? My next step is to order online but I'll rather 
avoid that if possible. Thanks!

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Re: [RBW] Are Zefal frame pumps really that hard to find?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Saturday, July 19, 2014 4:51:22 AM UTC-7, Skenry wrote:
>
> <...>
>
> As to the original question, yes full size frame pumps of any brand are 
> hard to find at any shop.   It's economics, in order to stock full size 
> frame pumps the shop will have to stock anywhere from 3 to 7 different 
> sizes.   With multiples in the more common sizes, a shop could easily stock 
> 15 pumps to fit their regular customer base.   With a pocket pump, stock 
> one SKU, easy choice.   I have to agree though, I am not a fan of CO2.   I 
> have a few inflators, but just never liked them.   If you buy one though, 
> just head to WalMart and buy the CO2 cartridges in the BBgun aisle, its 
> much much cheaper.
>

Your rationale makes sense, except there were typically entire shelves of 
mini pumps with more SKUs that one can shake a stick at.

I actually do have two or three CO2 inflators but I don't use them anymore 
because I tend to get punctures in series (this is why I typically carry a 
full patch kit in addition to tubes). Nevertheless, an additional tag-on 
for your excellent hint to get BB gun cartridges instead of bonafide 
"bicycle" cartridges is to ensure that you buy a CO2 inflator that supports 
*unthreaded* cartridges. A lot of these CO2 inflators, especially the 
really compact ones, require *threaded* cartridges that go for $3++/pcs.

I don't mind supporting Rivbike, reasonably higher price or otherwise, as I 
want to support their cycling philosophy. (not trying to convince anyone of 
 this) In fact, I have a short running wish list that I can execute on. I 
guess I just prefer to touch things before I buy, although that seems to be 
impossible in this case. They are local enough that I can take a day off 
from work and just bike-BART there, especially since I have a clothing item 
on my wish list that I rather try on before purchase.

Truthfully, I'm more surprised than anything that frame pumps are as rare 
as they are.

Thanks for the comments!

--
Benz Ouyang
Sunnyvale, CA

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[RBW] Re: Paul's brakes on your Riv. Experience between models?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

If you're going to the trouble of brazing on cantilever bosses, why not 
consider brazing on Racer bosses? They're the same exact bosses located 
differently. I guess you'll lock yourself into just one single type of 
brake and you'll need to buy the stainless sleeves, but I really like the 
Racer brakes and think they are a marvelous balance between power and 
control when used with Campagnolo Ergopower levers.

I don't particularly believe cantilever and linear pull brakes are really 
that different (in power/modulation/control/etc) when the cantis are set up 
correctly, and especially if the cantis are used with the brake levers with 
the desired mechanical advantage (they all differ by a bit). True, it takes 
more effort to get the cantis working to my liking (versus the linear 
pull's no-brainer/non-adjustable setup) but that's also why I adjust for 
more leverage/less travel up front and less leverage/more travel in the 
back. This allows me to balance the front-rear power and affords me more 
tolerance for out-of-trueness in the rear wheel. But we're just nitpicking 
at this point.

I actually find linear pull brakes somewhat of a hinderance when one is 
trying to use big tires and fenders because one can't adjust where the 
horizontal actuation cable is. My Surly for example has the cable/latch 
rubbing the top of the front fender because I'm running 2.0 Kojaks and 
thick plastic fenders. It doesn't impact braking performance but it's kinda 
annoying to have the brake mechanically scrap the top of the plastic fender 
every time I touch the front brake lever. This is with normal height 
linear-pull brakes so I'll imagine the shorter Mini Motos will be even more 
restricting.

I'll admit it. I dislike the Neo Retro. They require brake levers with a 
higher mechanical advantage to work well because they don't have a lot of 
mechanical advantage themselves. Look at the curves on this for comparison 
and you'll see what I mean:

http://www.circleacycles.com/cantilevers/

In addition, they also stick out like sore thumbs. Used at the back, 
they've poked at my shoes occasionally. They do look very nice though, but 
that's essentially their only saving grace.



On Saturday, July 19, 2014 5:20:10 PM UTC-7, jinxed wrote:
>
> So my curiosity has been peaked after a brief discussion on the trail with 
> a guy about his Paul's mini motos. He was very impressed with them even 
> having previously been using the neo retros on the same bike, a Rock 
> Lobster cross. The claim was FAR more power and better modulation with all 
> other variables consistent. Levers were cane creek. For some reason I 
> lumped the Minis in with the touring cantis in that they were for more 
> clearance, but not much different as to power. After some quick reading on 
> the magic computer box, it seems this guy is not alone in his assessment. 
>
> I am a big fan of cantilever style brakes. So much so, I decided to take 
> the center mount racers off my Hilsen to have canti studs added. Plan was 
> to swap the Racers for some Neo Retros...but now I'm wondering about the 
> Mini Motos. 
>
> Has anyone tried the Minis, or even better, both Minis and Neos??
>
> For the record, I know I like the Neos , and the direct mount racers on my 
> Rambler are awesome. And YES, I realize a set of xt v-brakes would deliver, 
> but I don't like the aesthetic and don't want to change levers. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: New Sam Hillborne

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Thursday, July 24, 2014 8:59:52 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> A dissenting opinion: I had a 56 and found the 59 cm top tube too long. If 
> you have a preferred bar and a preferred bar position with respect to the 
> saddle, there are limits to adjusting reach by adjusting the stem -- I 
> could not get the Sam's Noodle close enough to the saddle with a normal 
> stem, even with the Sam's relaxed seat tube angle. I could have used a 5 or 
> 6 cm extension, except that would put too little weight on the front wheel. 
> I ended up with the bar too high for my liking -- some 5-6 cm above the 
> saddle, when even for a "country' bike I prefer it no more than 2 cm above 
> saddle. Top tube length matters!
>

I never understood the claim about front wheel load variation caused by 
using different length stems. Unless you're talking about a feet of change, 
a couple of centimeters are not going to make that much of a difference. 
For instance, merely moving from drops to hoods to tops, the front wheel 
load will change. Scooting a bit forward or backward on the saddle also 
means the front wheel load will change. Pedaling off saddle, the front 
wheel load will change dramatically. And no one has so far claim any 
detriment from these. So I don't understand this stem length fixation.

If one is claiming aesthetic detriment, then yes, I will agree that short 
stems (<100mm) do look odd.

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[RBW] Re: 650b wheel building question

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

As a non-professional wheelbuilder who has nevertheless rode successfully 
on many of my own wheels (only one set of 650B wheels though), I would say 
no. There's nothing special other than the spoke lengths that are nominally 
halfway between 26" and 700c spoke lengths. :)

The lower spoke tension talk you may have heard of is possibly from one or 
two 650B rim models, but there is nothing inherent in a 650B build that 
necessitates special tension consideration that is different from a 26" or 
700c build. AFAIK, the rims that sparked said low-tension observations had 
been redesigned/strengthened to be "normal", meaning they will hold up with 
spoke tensions in the 100 kgf range.


On Wednesday, July 30, 2014 9:07:00 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>
> So, if an LBS has done 700c and 26" wheels, but never 650b...is there 
> anything they need to know, or just build them like any other wheel?
>
> Anything special to 650b wheelbuilding?
>
> Only thing I have heard is spoke tension is sometimes lower on 650b rims, 
> depending on the rim model/manufacturer.
>
> Thanks for any info.
>

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[RBW] Re: How do I measure "Q" factor?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

An easier way is to follow Ryan's method, except measure to the outer 
surface of the seat tube and not to the center of the seat tube. That way, 
a simple ruler or self-retracting tape measure (best) will suffice and you 
don't have to "guess" where the center of the tube is. Add those numbers, 
and then add the diameter of the seat tube (which you will know by your 
front derailleur clamp size).


On Wednesday, July 30, 2014 10:07:32 PM UTC-7, rcnute wrote:
>
> Measure horizontally with a caliper or ruler from the center of the seat 
> tube bottle boss to the point where the pedal spindle meets the crankarm 
> (with crankarm parallel to seat tube).  Multiply by two.  There's probably 
> a better way but that's close enough for me.  
>
> Ryan
>
> On Wednesday, July 30, 2014 10:03:48 PM UTC-7, lungimsam wrote:
>>
>> ...without taking off the left crank arm...
>>
>> Any way to do it?
>>
>> I am curious as to how my two RBW bikes quack.
>>
>> Thanks for any info.
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: 650b wheel building question

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Has spokes changed that much? According to a chart in Jobst's book, the 
yield strength of spokes was something like twice or thrice the tension 
typically applied in a normal wheel. The spokes are typically not any 
thinner than are currently available to mitigate spoke windup from to low 
torsional strength. I actually have some experience with this as building 
with 2.0/1.5 spokes, especially on the rear drive side, is a bit of a pain.


On Friday, August 1, 2014 7:17:03 AM UTC-7, Anton Tutter wrote:
>
> The idea is that you want the spokes to be in the "sweet spot" between 
> always being tensioned yet never reaching the limit of their elastic 
> modulus. Too much tension will stress the eyelets and hub flanges, and you 
> also approach the limit of the spoke elastic modulus;  Too little tension 
> and the spokes will not maintain enough tension as the wheel deflects. 
>
> Anton
>
>
> On Thursday, July 31, 2014 9:01:49 PM UTC-4, M D Smith wrote:
>>
>> I've always understood that the higher the tension, the stronger the 
>> wheel.
>>
>> I haven't re-read the Brandt book for a number of years, but isn't his 
>> technique effectively "get the spokes so tight that the wheel starts to 
>> taco, then back off a bit?"
>>
>> Mike in Htfd CT
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS_56 Atlantis, F/F/HS

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

That looks about right. The 56 cm Atlantis is the largest size to sport 26" 
wheels so the frame will look bigger than usual due to the relatively small 
wheels.


On Thursday, March 7, 2013 8:20:15 PM UTC-8, Dave Faller wrote:
>
> I hate to ask, but are you sure that's a 56 cm?  Looks taller than that... 
>
> On 3/7/2013 8:06 PM, C.J. Filip wrote: 
> > Looks familiarhere's a teaser to help Frank towards a quick sale: 
> > 
> http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/599514_603623966271_37588685_n.jpg 
> > 
> > On Mar 7, 1:49 pm, rcnute  wrote: 
> >>   Great bike from a great seller and Rivendellian! 
> >> 
> >> Ryan 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] More yummy fat road bike tires on the market

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Are you using Velox (read: thick) rim tape? The Challenge-A23 difficulty 
can be tackled by using either Velocity's own Veloplugs or a thin rim tape 
like Ritchey or Rox. The Challenge tires, at least the Parigi-Roubaix, do 
stretch out a bit after use so they do get significantly easier to 
(dis)mount after a couple of hundred miles.


On Wednesday, March 20, 2013 2:08:40 PM UTC+8, stonehog wrote:
>
> Let me know how you manage to actually mount them :)  I had a heck of a 
> time getting one on an A23 rim, and decided to return them.  I couldn't see 
> dealing with a puncture in the wild with such a tight tire.  Cypres, 
> brother.  Cypres...
>
> Brian
> Seattle, WA
>
>
> On Tue, Mar 19, 2013 at 2:41 PM, William  >wrote:
>
>> I just ordered a pair of Challenge Eroica tires from Black Mountain 
>> Cycles.  It's crazy how many great looking supple fat road tires there are 
>> now.  These are 700x30 and look like they'd be a great choice for a Ram or 
>> Roadeo.  Mike Varley does a nice ride report on his Black Mountain Cycles 
>> blog.  We are in a golden age of awesome tire choices.   
>>
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>
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[RBW] Re: FS: Red Glorious 50cm

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

That's a very pretty bike!

What's the word on Glorious sizing? For some reason, I keep thinking that 
the legacy Rivendell mixtes were sized smaller than norm, meaning one 
should size them smaller than what the "PBH - 26" method indicates.

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[RBW] Re: Pics of you on your Rivendell.

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Climbing Old La Honda on my Atlantis near Woodside, California.

https://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc6/262744_10151306751196692_1547264971_n.jpg

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubus racks for Summer tour with a few thoughts & pictures.

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I'll add a data point here, being an owner of Tubus, Nitto, Velo-Orange and 
Racktime (Tubus' low-end) racks.

I have a broken Tubus Fly. It's a black chrome-moly version and it broke at 
the weld. Yes, I was trying to bend it to fit it to a wider dropout but 
still, it wasn't a tandem 145mm. It cracked at the weld and Tubus did not 
answer any of my emails. So that tells me two things: Tubus customer 
service is non-existent, and Tubus racks are not terribly lenient of 
manhandling. Perhaps it's a weld/HAZ defect or perhaps it was me being a 
klutz. I guess we'll never know. What I *did* expect was that it would bend 
rather than crack, as with all my Nitto and Velo-Orange racks. Those did 
not crack at the weld or anywhere else when subjected to the same or even 
higher displacement adjustments. Sample size is one though.

All my rear racks are strong enough, even when I occasionally piled onto 
the racks heavy iron/steel discs (used car disc brakes) to deliver for 
recycling. Even my (intact) stainless Fly was pretty solid. I only have 
Nitto and Velo-Orange front racks and these aren't really stressed, with 
the heaviest cargo being my "randonneur" type front bag loaded with food 
and supplies.

The Velo-Orange racks appear to weather usage the best likely because they 
are polished stainless steel. There appears to be minimal markings even at 
the pannier clamp areas. The painted Tubus and Racktime racks have "bald 
spots" as the supplied protective tape peeled off (useless adhesive) and 
usage resulted in beausage. No rust though, but then I live in California. 
The stainless Tubus and Nitto racks look fine (I have both chrome and satin 
versions of the Nitto) but they show more beausage than the VOs even though 
they probably see less use.

Overall and in summary, I hesitate to buy Tubus racks again, simply because 
of the crack of my one rack and the non-responsiveness of Tubus. This 
despite the rack's light weight and (to me) attractive minimalist design. 
The Nitto racks are very *very* attractive and well-made, but expensive and 
relatively heavy. (I swear I'm not a weight weenie!) They're also as 
functional as any other rack. I'll buy them if they are the appropriate 
purchase, if for nothing else than their beauty. The VOs are probably my 
best buy for racks, at least for my usage pattern. They're cheapish, light 
but unfortunately also have small platforms. So they're not terribly 
appropriate for big panniers. For example, my Ortlieb Office bag isn't the 
most stable on the VO constructor rear rack. However, when used with the 
appropriate bags, they're tough to beat for value even if they're not the 
prettiest.

Cheers,
Benz
Sunnyvale, CA


On Saturday, April 20, 2013 7:05:47 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> On Sat, Apr 20, 2013 at 7:54 PM, Mike Schiller 
> 
> > wrote:
>
>> The Nitto racks are stronger 
>
>
> Again and again, I am not trying to be annoying. Can you give the 
> particulars of the evidence that show that Nitto racks are stronger than 
> Tubus racks? 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Tubus racks for Summer tour with a few thoughts & pictures.

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

And the corollary to that will be "It doesn't work".

On Monday, April 22, 2013 12:34:19 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> There is always only one answer to "I bent it and it broke": "Don't do 
> that."
>
> On Sunday, April 21, 2013 9:19:35 PM UTC-7, Peter M wrote:
>
>> A wise man once said "I can take a crap in a box and mark it guaranteed, 
>> but at then end of the day all you have is a guaranteed piece of crap" 
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 21, 2013 at 11:52 PM, dougP  wrote:
>>
>>> Don't put too much faith in warranties.  A "limited warranty" is written 
>>> to protect the issuer (company, dealer, etc) by limiting liability to 
>>> certain specific situations or issues.  It is NOT intended to protect the 
>>> customer or consumer of the product, but rather to limit the extent of 
>>> claims.  "Lifetime warranty" usually covers the reasonable expected 
>>> lifetime of the product for its intended purpose, not the lifetime of the 
>>> customer.  A 30 year warranty on anything, except maybe a rock, ain't gonna 
>>> happen.  
>>>
>>> dougP
>>>
>>>
>>> On Saturday, April 20, 2013 5:49:05 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
 How do we know this to be true? I'm not being snarky, I want to know, 
 as one who loves Tubuses and has used many but who would seriously 
 consider 
 Nittos for a "pretty bike" if he had the money and found the right design.

 BTW: I read both that Tubus offers a 10 year warranty and that Tubus 
 offers a 30 year warranty. Which izzit? And, just for the record, cheap 
 ol' 
 Axiom offers a *lifetime* warranty to the original owner. I suppose if we 
 were truly rational in our own self interest, those abstract beings 
 beloved 
 of the economists (idiots), we'd all be using Axioms.

 I have nothing against Nitto.  They are nice racks.  But off the shelf 
> the Tubus are head and shoulders above. 
>
  

 -- 

 http://resumespecialties.com/**index.html
 patric...@**resumespecialties.com
 __**__**
 __

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>>>  
>>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Nitto, Phil Wood, Carradice, Sugino, Campy, and more....

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Looks like the Rivy-hubbed wheels are 26" as per "559" label on the rims.


On Thursday, May 2, 2013 12:41:18 PM UTC-7, RJM wrote:
>
> What are the wheels?  700's, 650, 26" ??
>  
>  
>
> On Thursday, May 2, 2013 12:43:06 AM UTC-5, Matt Gilkey wrote:
>
>> OK, here we go again..
>>
>>  
>>
>> Hello, 
>>
>> My name is Matt and I have a problem. In addition to bikes, I like bike 
>> parts. Parts made in America. Parts made in Japan. Oh, any parts really. 
>> Shiny pretty ones. And bike frames. And tires.  I like those too. So in 
>> an attempt to change my bicycle related hoarding ways I am clearing 
>> everything out. I have taken detailed pictures in an attempt to accurately 
>> show condition. I really want everyone to be happy with their purchases, so 
>> please ask questions. Everything is as pictured, as dirty or clean as 
>> shown. Everything in the pictures is included unless otherwise noted. 
>> Prices include shipping to the lower 48, which I am finding out is more 
>> expensive than I realized. PayPal for payment please. Please contact me off 
>> list at *mg...@hotmail.com*. Thanks for looking. 
>>
>> -Nitto technomic 26.0 clamp, 10 cm $42.00
>>
>> -Nitto moustache 25.4 clamp, tape residue and lots of scratches in clamp 
>> area $40.00
>>
>> -Phil wood Bottom Bracket 108mm, approx 2,000 miles, mounting rings not 
>> included, $80.00
>>
>> -Shimano Deore XT rear derailleur, 7 speed, very scratched but functions 
>> well $25.00
>>
>> -Tektro Drop bar v-brake levers, $25.00
>>
>> -Velo Orange front rack, $45.00
>>
>> -Mafac Racer center-pull brakes with new pads, $50.00
>>
>> -Shimano XT front derailleur 34.9 clamp, $25.00
>>
>> -Topeak Road Master Frame Pump, rubber head is split, length 52-59cm, 
>> $30.00
>>
>> -MKS tour pedals, a little beat up but spin smoothly, $20.00
>>
>> -Sugino XD2 triple 170mm, 46-36-24, $85.00
>>
>> -Nitto Noodle 26.0 clamp, 42 cm, $45.00
>>
>> -Velo Orange City bar (I think it is the porteur model), $28.00
>>
>> -Sugino XD2 175mm crank set, chain guard-40-32, will include an extra 26 
>> tooth inner ring $85.00
>>
>> -Shimano Deore Crank set 175mm 46-36-26, $75.00
>>
>> -Velo Orange Grand Cru 50.4 bcd Crank set (Version 1) 46-30 $95.00 (I 
>> found the second dust cap). 
>>
>> -Nitto campee rear rack with hardware, smaller size for 26in wheels, 
>> never used, $95.00
>>
>> -Phil Wood 135 mm bottom bracket, no mounting rings, Some scratches on 
>> shell, $75.00
>>
>> -Nitto dirt drop stem 26.0 clamp, 8 cm extension, 120mm above min 
>> insertion, $42.00 
>>
>> -Nitto dirt drop stem 25.4 clamp, 8 cm extension, 150mm above min 
>> insertion, $42.00
>>
>> -Nitto dirt drop stem 26.0 clamp, 10 cm extension, 120mm above min 
>> insertion, $42.00
>>
>> -Nitto periscope stem 25.4 clamp, 8 cm extension, 190mm above min 
>> insertion $38.00
>>
>> - CampagnoloVeloce CT 10spd double crank set 170mm, 50-34, $70.00
>>
>> -B&M 12V Sidewall Dynamo with Lumotec Oval Plus Headlight and Securelight 
>> Plus Tail light with canti brake mount brackets, spare bulbs, spare wheels, 
>> and misc. mounting parts $75.00
>>
>> -Phil wood “Rivy” wheel set with Velocity Aeroheat rims 36 spoke, 
>> includes IRD 13-32 7spd freewheel and suntour 13-34 7spd freewheel, built 
>> by Rich at Rivendell $375.00. 
>>
>> -Carradice Super C front and rear panniers $300 for all four
>>
>> -Campagnolo hub set 36 hole with 13-28 8 speed cassette $40.00
>>
>> - Campagnolo Racing triple front and rear derailleur’s, 28.6mm front 
>> clamp $45.00 for both
>>
>> - Campagnolo Racing Triple 170mm crank set, 50-40-28 $70.00
>>
>> -Carradice Cape roll, inner pocket stitching cut to make 1 big pocket, 
>> $28.00
>>
>> -Shimano 8spd bar end shifters, lots of shellac residue, friction or 
>> index, $35.00
>>
>> -Hutchison 650bx32mm tires, approx 25 miles on them, great tires just 
>> decided to go with   Hetres, $80.00
>>
>> -Bridgestone MB2 or 3 frame, unsure of the year. Had it powder coated by 
>> Cycle Art several years ago. Great frame, includes headset and BB. Seat 
>> tube = 50cm c-c, Top tube = 58cm c-c.  $325.00
>> - Dave Scott Centurion Ironman road frame. Tange Prestige tubing. Bottom 
>> Bracket not included. Seat tube = 59cm c-c, Top tube = 57cm c-c. $275.00. 
>>  
>> Link to Pictures below
>>  
>>
>> https://plus.google.com/photos/116766706625339314401/albums/5873072009263809201#photos/116766706625339314401/albums/5873072009263809201
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Wiring Dyno Hubs

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I bought a roll of 3M Scotchgard paint protection film from eBay to use on 
the chainstay instead of buying ready-made ones from the bike shop. Since I 
had a lot of leftovers, I decided to replace the zipties with a full-length 
run of this film.

My installation required some forethought. I relieved the dynamo wire of 
all kinks and coils. Then I held the wire in place at the two ends (or any 
strategic middle point) by masking tape. To apply the film, I stick the 
entire run of film but only on one side of the wire. Once I have one half 
of the film applied and verified the wire's position, I applied the film 
from one lateral side to the other. The result (hard to see film actually, 
and I do apologize for a picture of a carbon fork on the Riv list):


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[RBW] Re: Wiring Dyno Hubs

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

The film is designed to well stick to painted surfaces as it was originally 
intended for protecting the frontal painted parts of a car from rocks and 
small debris. My carbon fork is clearcoated so it's essentially painted. 
You'll actually need to clean off any wax with IPA (isopropyl alcohol, not 
Indian Pale Ale, although that may work too) before you apply the film, if 
you're a wax-your-bike kinda of person (no judgement here! LOL)

As far as durability, if applied well, the film is expected to last more or 
less the lifetime of a car, which is to say 10 years or more. As applied on 
a bike with a wire running through it and thus exposing a little of the 
sticky side, probably less than that as there's a chance for contamination 
and de-sticking. I've had mine for a few months now and it's gone through 
at least 2 bike washes without any signs of peeling, so that's encouraging. 
The film is about $15 for a roll that's 6" by 3 ft, so it's not expensive.



On Sunday, May 5, 2013 9:50:55 PM UTC-7, Kelly wrote:
>
> That is great!  Do you think it will stick to paint as well as the 
> carbonation?  
>
> How long has it held up.
>
> Thanks for sharing
>
> Kelly
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Interesting discussion: Riv bikes v. BQ bikes

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Friday, May 10, 2013 7:27:02 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> Handlebar position has nothing to do with whether a bike has low, medium 
> or high trail.
>
 
I don't know if that is entirely true. Certainly, lower trail bikes favor 
having a load at the front to feel "normal", at least for me. Without a 
load, low trail bikes are squirrely. That means lower trail bikes favor a 
more front-biased weight distribution to feel "normal", including perhaps 
by having a lower handlebar. That also means that lower trail bikes will 
probably feel squirrely with Bosco or other upright bars (speculation; 
haven't tested).

Of course, one can get used to either low or high trail bikes and once that 
happens, whichever one that's familiar will feel "normal".

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Re: [RBW] poll: what do you have on your rack (s)?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Have you considered Ortlieb panniers, especially the "classic" kind? Those 
can get absolutely filthy, but a strong blast of water from a hose with 
maybe a light swipe of a brush will return them to almost pristine 
condition. You don't even have to unpack them as the rolltop is essentially 
waterproof. OK, so I live in CA where it doesn't rain much. But on the 
occasions when it does rain, the accumulated dirt/grit is quite a bit and 
my black Ortlieb bags turn a nice shade of grey.


On Friday, July 5, 2013 8:45:11 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> You wouldn't say that if you lived in VT,where we have had 50 days of rain 
> in the last 10 weeks! Or if you lived on a dirt road.  I have front and 
> rear racks on my Saluki but I want absolutely everything above the fenders. 
>  If it all wont fit in the barley bag, I pull out the Nelson LF.  Both are 
> on their own SQRs.  In fact my only complaint about Canti brakes is that 
> the pivots sit below the fenders.
>
> Michael
> in flooded Westford, VT.
>

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[RBW] Re: Tightening the curve on fenders with arc too large for the wheels.

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Never tried this before as I have 26x2.0 on Cascadia fenders and they fit 
somewhat nicely, but Cascadia fenders are polycarbonate. Back in the day 
when I was still messing around with 1/10 and 1/8-scale RC cars, the bodies 
were polycarbonate and we used to use a hairdryer to soften them, so as to 
shape them. Maybe you can try that with an industrial heat gun?


On Friday, July 12, 2013 12:26:36 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I bought and installed a pair of PB Cascadia fenders, I think they're the 
> 45 mm width, on the '03 Riv yesterday -- slow day at Stevie's, and I 
> decided paying full $39 pop instead of taking my discount allowed me 
> ethically to install them at the shop. They work fine, but of course their 
> natural arc has to be tightened to fit closely over the 559X32 wheels. This 
> leaves a noticeable bulge in the front fender just aft of the crown.
>
> Is there any way to get rid of this bulge? I have to admit that the motive 
> is as much aesthetic as practical -- and no doubt as much pathological 
> neat-mindedness as aesthetic.
>
> I have thought of:
>
> 1. slitting the edges, letting them overlap, and then gluing.
> 2. clamping: using the rear's plastic seatstay bridge mounting clip (with 
> the tab cut off) as a sort of brace/stiffener.
>
> Other ideas? Comments and advice? ("Go boil yer head!" "Get a life!" 
> "Yeah, shut up, already.")
>
> These fenders will stay on only during our brief seasons of precipitation 
> -- otherwise I would have tracked down a nice set of metal fenders.
>
> Request: regarding #2 above: I tossed said clip yesterday, so if this is 
> workable I'll need another. Anyone?
>
> Too bad that the nice pair of SKS 700cX35s generously donated by Ryan 
> Watson were too narrow for the Kojas, but they will do well for the Ram 
> with its Parigi Roubaix.
>
> Oh, and this: The '03 Curt-built has the very carefully arranged clearance 
> allowed by "normal" reach brake arches, so that there are at least 3 and 
> probably 4-5 mm of clearance at the tight spots under crown and brake 
> bridge, this with 559X1.35 Kojaks that measure 32 mm on the narrow Sun 
> semi-aero rims. 
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
> patric...@resumespecialties.com 
> http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>
>
> Albuquerque, NM
>  

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[RBW] Re: Stainless steel versus grey-coat Tubus Fly?

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

I've not used my Fly for saddlebag support, only panniers. Visually 
inspecting, the Fly has a fairly narrow platform, especially towards the 
front so I don't think the designers had saddlebag support in mind when 
they conceived the Fly.


On Monday, July 15, 2013 8:00:09 PM UTC-7, Evan Spacht wrote:
>
> I have been contemplating this same combo: medium sackville , tubus fly.
> Is this rack not an adequate bag support? I'm using a Top Rack and was 
> thinking about selling it for a Fly.
>
> -Evan
>
> On Monday, July 15, 2013 4:57:19 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> I ordered what was supposed to be a stainless steel Fly from ProBikeKit 
>> in Britain -- $83 and change express shipped from Britain (arrived today 
>> after 7 days). It looks to me like a grey powdercoat, not stainless steel.
>>  
>> No big worries, since, looks apart, I actually prefer the chromo model 
>> because it is both lighter and stronger, but nonetheless, a question: does 
>> Tubus make a "silver' powdercoat Fly model?
>>
>> I'd rather have the grey than black, at any rate. It's for the '03 Curt 
>> Riv Custom Errand bike, to replace with panniers the very nice, but not 
>> quite large enough or easy enough to use Sackville Medium.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
>> patric...@resumespecialties.com
>> http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>>
>>
>> Albuquerque, NM
>>  
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
>> patric...@resumespecialties.com
>> http://www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>>
>>
>> Albuquerque, NM
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Atlantis sweater

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Alas, not wool though! The Grant will be displeased. :)


On Wednesday, July 17, 2013 9:03:55 AM UTC-7, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Nice catch Clayton. It even has the shoulder buttons! 
>
> On 7/17/13, clayton > wrote: 
> > 
> > 
> > <
> https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-tPDtgPyjcjo/Uea8jHm0qkI/AB8/uS3u9x6pc4w/s1600/atlantis+sweater.jpg>
>  
>
> > 
> > http://www.theclymb.com/ 
> > I found this on the Clymb website for sale at $34.00. I thought maybe 
> some 
> > Atlantis owners might be interested. (no affiliation). 
> > 
> > -- 
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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> > email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com . 
> > To post to this group, send email to 
> > rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com. 
>
> > Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch. 
> > For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/groups/opt_out. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
>
>
> -- 
> Cheers, 
> David 
>
> "it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride." - Seth Vidal 
>

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[RBW] Re: New blug question

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Did you spot the easter egg of a mid-ride drink? Cheers! :)


On Monday, August 5, 2013 5:29:04 PM UTC-7, EricP wrote:
>
> First off, really like the video.  Does a great job of showing how a 
> person can ride knowing the route like the back of a hand.  Although will 
> admit to being shocked (shocked, I say) that the bike actually has drop 
> bars.  On a Rivendell?  These days?
>  
> But the question - who is performing the music?  Really like the song.
> Eric Platt
> St. Paul, MN
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Gilles Berthoud stainless steel vs SKS Chromoplastic fenders

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

On Tuesday, August 6, 2013 5:19:44 PM UTC-7, William wrote:

> [...] I redrilled holes with the fender rotated far enough forward that it 
> clears, and I'll take up the extra space with a home-made flap to save my 
> feet from spray


This trick will also mitigate the fender hitting the curb even if you ride 
down the curb slowly. 



*Home-made flap made from polyurethane-coated nylon fabric from 
McMaster-Carr, item 8809K31 at less than $5 for a 61" x 12" x 0.022" thick 
piece. It's thin enough to cut with a sharp pair of scissors but 
substantial enough to block spray. Cut it to within an inch off the ground 
as it will flap a bit in the wind.*

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Re: [RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa sneak peek

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

That looks like one "arm" of a fork crown, complete with a possible 
threaded 5mm hole for a front rack.

On Sunday, November 23, 2014 9:12:43 AM UTC-8, James Warren wrote:
>
>
> I'm realizing what the most interesting-to-me part of the most recent Blug 
> post is. It's the graphic just above the plate of food. 
>
> -Jim W. 
>
> On Nov 22, 2014, at 9:17 AM, Grant Petersen wrote: 
>
> > 
> > 
> > The graphic above the plate of food in the blug is something else for 
> another bike that will likely happen in mid-2016. If plans change or I get 
> too impatient. 
> > 
>
>

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[RBW] Free tires in SF bay area (Peninsula)

[Benz, Sunnyvale, CA]

Hello!

I have no use for the following tires since I'm entirely and utterly 
spoiled by Hetres, so they're free for claiming. You of course assume all 
risk with using used tires. I have one each of:

   1. Schwalbe Marathon GreenGuard 650Bx42. Looks quite new with molding 
   "whiskers" still present and reflective bands on sidewalls. Steel beads.
   2. Panaracer Col de la Vie 650Bx38. Well-worn and the sidewalls are a 
   little frayed. Steel beads.
   
Preference given to those who want both and can pick up, but it's basically 
first-come-first-serve.

I live in west Sunnyvale just south of El Camino, and pickup from around 
this area is preferred. Barring that, I work in South San Francisco and 
commute by Caltrain so pickup anywhere along this corridor (especially near 
the Millbrae, Palo Alto or Mountain View stations) may also be prearranged. 
I really prefer not to post.

Email off list please.

Pics for reference (1st two are Marathon; sorry, they're a bit dirty):







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