[RBW] Re: Butternut Appaloosa with Woody fenders

[Takashi]

Ann, your butternut bike / woody fenders combo is so gorgeous. I love how 
it looks.
Harlequin handlebar wrap is great, too.

Joe, your Cheviot looks very handsome with those curvy pattern fenders.
A friend of mine wants to mount fenders on his bike which doesn't have 
enough clearance, and he is planning to buy Chop Chorts, so pics of your 
Chev will inspire him.

Takashi

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[RBW] Bruce Gordon Racks

[MartyG]

Who was it here that picked up the rack stash from Bruce a while back? I 
may need something rough to play with. PM me if it's you. 

Marty

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Re: [RBW] Bruce Gordon Racks

[BG NS]

As many of you know - I’m retiring from the Bicycle Business.
My designs as well as the Rack Making and Gravel Grinder bicycles are for Sale.
My current plan is to continue making and selling the Rock ’n Road Tires - but, 
the tire business is for Sale for the right price.
I hope to work with the buyer to continue the Bruce Gordon Cycles name and 
products.
Anyone interested in talking - please give my cell phone a call (707) 762-4107 
and we will talk.
Regards,
Bruce Gordon
www.bgcycles.com



On Jan 21, 2018, at 5:49 AM, MartyG  wrote:

> Who was it here that picked up the rack stash from Bruce a while back? I may 
> need something rough to play with. PM me if it's you. 
> 
> Marty
> 
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Re: [RBW] Bruce Gordon Racks

[MartyG]

Close to retirement myself. Hope I get to choose when that happens. I know 
many don't. Bruce, your racks are by far the smartest designs and best made 
bar none. Thank you for everything you did for the sport of cycling, and 
all the best as you move ahead. 

Hoping to find a rear rack for my Huge Roscoe Stepthrough, and am willing 
to customize/cobble/powdercoat if needed. Any leads are welcome, but if 
custom orders are still being considered I'ld love to know. 

Marty

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 9:27:06 AM UTC-5, Bruce Gordon wrote:
>
> As many of you know - I’m retiring from the Bicycle Business.
> My designs as well as the Rack Making and Gravel Grinder bicycles are for 
> Sale.
> My current plan is to continue making and selling the Rock ’n Road Tires - 
> but, the tire business is for Sale for the right price.
> I hope to work with the buyer to continue the Bruce Gordon Cycles name and 
> products.
> Anyone interested in talking - please give my cell phone a call (707) 
> 762-4107 and we will talk.
> Regards,
> Bruce Gordon
> www.bgcycles.com
>
>
>
> On Jan 21, 2018, at 5:49 AM, MartyG > 
> wrote:
>
> Who was it here that picked up the rack stash from Bruce a while back? I 
> may need something rough to play with. PM me if it's you. 
>
> Marty
>
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[RBW] Frame Pump for a 59-60cm gap?

[ted]

Topeak road master blaster frame pump size x or xl?
Seems to be out of production now but some left for sale when you search. Act 
fast and get one before they are all gone.

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[RBW] STOLEN Bay Area, CA: Yellow 1982 Trek 720, 64cm, beloved Rivendell substitute

[Justin, Oakland]

Where in the Bay Area?
Also: check BikeIndex, BA Stolen bike google group, etc. 

-J

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[RBW] Re: Not ugly quill to threadless: Can it be done?

[Austin B]

Bob, there is the Stop Swap and Save meet coming up in Westminster on Feb 
11: http://www.stopswapandsave.com/

You might be able to find something to your liking for just a few $$. Maybe 
even the VO stem if you have sharp eyes. I go every year (I'm in 
Eldersburg) and usually walk away with something. Though if someone's 
unloading Albastache bars cheap this year, I call dibs! 

Austin

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[RBW] Test ride 58cm Atlantis or Hunqapillar in New York City?

[John W]

Thanks Michael. I’m actually looking specifically to test ride the Atlantis (or 
Hunq) to test the frame and fit  qualities. I’d be a 58 in the Atlantis or 
maybe an equivalent 53 in the Hunq for starters. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60 Quickbeam and 52tt/50.5st Crust Romanceur

[Stephen D]

Daniel,

Saddle height is 68.5 in the photos.

One thing to be aware of given the concerns folks have raised about the 
stem height -- the headtube is very short on this size frame, and if you 
want to really lower the handlebar height, a short quill stem will be 
necessary, which runs about $50 (
https://www.benscycle.com/nitto-technomic-short-quill-stem-2/stem_nitto_technomic_870/product).
 
If it starts to look like this bike might be something that your wife might 
be interested in, we can discuss cockpit changes/deletions/price 
adjustments to make sure the setup allows for a range of fit adjustments 
that would work for your wife.

Thanks for your interest. Let me know if you have any questions.

Best,
Stephen




On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 11:25:46 PM UTC-5, Daniel Jackson wrote:
>
> Hey Stephen,
>
> Would you mind measuring the Crust saddle height in the posted photos? 
> Center BB to top of saddle along the seat tube. 
>
> Thanks much - this just might be my wife's size...
>
> Best,
> Daniel
>
> On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 5:33:31 PM UTC-5, Stephen D wrote:
>>
>> Continuing the parts / bikes purge in preparation for a move... This 
>> round -- two of our bikes.
>>
>> Prices are local pickup in Baltimore. I live by a park, so it's easy to 
>> take them for a test spin.
>>
>> If shipped, packing by a local bike shop ($50) and bike flights shipping 
>> charge will be extra. We'll verify the total before it's done, but the 
>> total of packing + shipping will probably be about $150 if going to west 
>> coast.
>>
>> *Quickbeam* (60) - $1400. Bought last year on this forum. Wife used 
>> primarily as a commuter bike during that time. Wheelset rebuilt during that 
>> year by Cutlass wheels. HED Belgium+ rims with the Phil Wood hubs that came 
>> with the bike's older wheelset. Barlow pass tires. Tektro Canti up front, 
>> Paul Canti in the rear. Sugino Super Mighty 170 crank with Sugino Mighty 
>> Competition 45t chainring. Campy Record headset, White freewheel, Nitto 
>> Noodle bars with Nitto Pearl 8 stem. Nitto S65 seat post with Brooks B17 in 
>> excellent shape (wife is keeping her broken in saddle, so we put a spare 
>> B17 that is not broken in yet on the bike for the sale). Includes an 
>> uninstalled Surly Dingle.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/stephendm/albums/72157664882872958
>>
>> *Crust Romanceur *(52 Top Tube / 50.5 Seat Tube) - $2200. Built this 
>> summer. Ridden less than 50 miles. Has a reused anodized White ENO 175 
>> crankset, added new VBC chainrings, Spank Spike pedals. IRD 9spd wide range 
>> cassette. NOS Dura Ace downtube shifters with Shimano derailleurs. 650b 
>> Wheelset with SONDelux / White CLD hubs with Velocity Blunt 35 rims and 
>> tubeless Switchback Hill tires. Paul Klampers (short pull), Nitto Rando 
>> Bar. Paul Rear Skewer. Also comes with new, unopened Honjo H80 fender set 
>> with stays from Bens Cycle (
>> https://www.benscycle.com/honjo-h80-full-coverage-fender-set---650b---aluminum---smooth/full_coverage_fender_honjo__707-272/product).
>>  
>> Never finished the build, so fenders are uninstalled, and no lights are 
>> wiring for the dyne hub.
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/stephendm/albums/72157689609938172
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] FS: 1 remaining pair of new Furious Freds (360 gram ultralightweight 50 mm wide tire), $80 shipped CONUS

[Patrick Moore]

1 pair remaining, $80 shipped CONUS.

On Fri, Jan 19, 2018 at 12:22 PM, Patrick Moore  wrote:

> Exceptionally light but surprisingly durable -- I had an estimated 500
> miles at least left on the rear, at 2904, when I replaced it with a Big
> One. (This rear got tossed; I'm offering new ones.)
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Butternut Appaloosa with Woody fenders

[RichS]

Ann and Joe:

The personalization of your bikes is to be admired. Beautifully done!

Best regards,
Richard 

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 7:32:09 AM UTC-5, Takashi wrote:
>
> Ann, your butternut bike / woody fenders combo is so gorgeous. I love how 
> it looks.
> Harlequin handlebar wrap is great, too.
>
> Joe, your Cheviot looks very handsome with those curvy pattern fenders.
> A friend of mine wants to mount fenders on his bike which doesn't have 
> enough clearance, and he is planning to buy Chop Chorts, so pics of your 
> Chev will inspire him.
>
> Takashi
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Not ugly quill to threadless: Can it be done?

[Jim M.]

On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 1:41:41 PM UTC-8, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> https://alexscycle.com/products/nitto-clamp-on-ui-13
>
> Nitto UI12. 
>
> -J
>

I was going to suggest the UI-12 also. Cheaper than VO and it's Nitto.

I had an adapter for a while for Jones bars on my Bombadil. I don't bother 
much with aesthetics, but even to me it was ungainly and ugly. Also, it 
required an unusually large amount of tightening to keep it from slipping.

jim m
walnut creek, ca 

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Re: [RBW] Suntour Power Thumb Shifters

[Patrick Moore]

I replaced my second set of broken Silver BES (lever cracked when bike fell
over) with these, and actually prefer them -- I'd long praised Silvers as
superior, but I changed my mind. I find the smaller, thicker,
rubber-sleeved levers easier to shift by grabbing it with my fist; and I
prefer the greater cable pull of the Suntours -- mine require less than 90
degrees for a full 10 speed cassette, though that's with a high
movement:cable pull 8 speed era rd. With a modern, lower-movement rd, I
think the Suntours would be perfect.

On Sat, Jan 20, 2018 at 6:54 PM, J Imler  wrote:

> Couldn't wait for Silver 2's. Bought NOS Suntours. Gotta say the
> ratcheting noise I  hear makes me very optimistic I've got something good.
> Anyone using these? I'll report back once installed, likely tomorrow. Great
> looking too.
>
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[RBW] Re: Butternut Appaloosa with Woody fenders

['Ann L' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Joe:  

I love how your bike is turning out.  What kind of tires are those?

On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 6:15:39 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Hey Ann, I put Woody's on last night, so I'll drop 'em here in the just 
> announced and soon to be world famous Rivs With Wood Fenders thread. 
> They're shorties, which I know is silly for a bike with huge tire/fender 
> clearance, but I'm going for a minimalist vibe on my 2-speed Cheviot. 
>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/OZ1SkJOSDYZPGHF93
>

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[RBW] Re: Butternut Appaloosa with Woody fenders

['Ann L' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Thank you all for the complements.  I love my caramel and cream bike.  It 
is wonderfully fun to ride :)

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Re: [RBW] Re: Not ugly quill to threadless: Can it be done?

[Bob Keal]

Thanks for all the ideas! The bike I’d likely buy (if I do sell my Sam)
comes with a stem with a 31.8 clamp diameter, so I could just migrate the
Cowbell bar over to it.

Garth may be onto something, though. I could spend a bit and buy the Nitto
31.8 clamp stem—it’s cheaper (and uglier) than the VO one, but I can get it
in 60mm reach—I’m just not sure if it will have the height I need. The
“column” is only 140mm according to the Alex’s Cycle image.

I’m also just hoping that changing the setup on my Sam will convince me to
keep it, in which case this would all be a moot point, but we’ll see. The
new bike tractor beam is powerful, and I’d need to sell this one to buy
another.

Bob K. in Baltimore
-- 
Bob
443 278 4265
http://www.smallsur.com

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[RBW] Re: FS: 60 Quickbeam and 52tt/50.5st Crust Romanceur

[Ben Miller]

Stephen,

I think that Romancüer looks sweet! I have a mustard 59 Romancüer, but the 
rootbeer is just a great color and I love the way you built it up. Great job 
and best of luck to whomever it goes to. 

Ben

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[RBW] Re: Bruce Gordon Racks

[dougP]

Contact 
jbu...@gmail.com


He posted that neat photo of a "carload'o'racks".  


dougP

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 5:49:17 AM UTC-8, MartyG wrote:
>
> Who was it here that picked up the rack stash from Bruce a while back? I 
> may need something rough to play with. PM me if it's you. 
>
> Marty
>

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[RBW] My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[William!]

I haven’t experimented nearly so widely, but this has been my experience riding 
upright as well. Closest I’ve come is with Alba bars on a tandem, but nothing 
I’ve tried is as comfortable as I am on above-the-saddle noodles.

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[RBW] My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Deacon Patrick]

I can’t answer your question as I shifted from Albatross to the new Moustache 
(Albastache). The New Moustache is a bar you may want to consider. Curves are a 
semi-agressive forward position and the upright position offers varity based on 
how you set up stem length and height.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Kainalu V.]

I like albatross with a 13cm quill stem that's able to drop a bit lower than 
your threadless adapter will get you. It's what works for me on my Rosco, but I 
like semi upright tweensville.
-Kai 
BK NY 

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[nash5510]

I like upright bars.  I have surly open bars on my bike because they are 
wider.  I found I had a hard time being comfortable until I got a longer 
frame and a longer stem.  Comfort on a bike is a balance between your butt 
and your hands.  You are putting too much pressure on your hands and they 
are going numb.  You could move your seat back and more weight would be on 
your butt.  But if your seat is where you like it get a longer stem.  Drop 
bars and Upright bars put your hands in totally different positions if you 
use the same frame and stem then they will be super close to you.  And you 
won't be able to balance.  

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 12:16:13 PM UTC-8, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>
> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>
> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
> is.  
>
> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd intended 
> to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that relatively short 
> distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical ride for me on a 
> drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On the Cheviot I felt 
> slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, with the most 
> natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively speaking) and 
> holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front.  But that's 
> close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in essence I was 
> mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't comfortable in 
> the position in which the Albas were designed to put me.  Also, my hands 
> got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the ride I tried to 
> wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my fingers, and 
> they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd initially planned to 
> on that ride because I thought maybe I needed more time or distance to 
> acclimate to the Albas, but instead of things feeling better they felt 
> worse as the ride progressed.  
>
> With that background, I have 2 questions for the group:
>
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, for 
> example by raising or lowering the bars or the angle of the bars or 
> changing the stem extension?  There was a recent thread that indicated not 
> everyone likes upright bars (which I read only after I'd built up the 
> Cheviot), but it didn't get to my specific question about whether someone 
> could convert from nonliker to liker of uprights by adjusting 'em.  
>
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?  I know they're not designed 
> for drops, but given that I liked the extended position the best, I'm 
> thinking that drops might be more suitable for me than uprights.  And 
> follow-up question:  Would drops on a Cheviot make it essentially a mixte 
> Sam Hillborne but with longer chain stays?  I'm thinking yes, and I don't 
> need to duplicate the 2 Sams I already have.  
>
> Thanks in advance for any input on this.  I know I could continue to play 
> with set-ups and hope to stumble across a solution, but I'm tired of that 
> and about ready to give up on the Cheviot and am hoping to find a solution 
> more efficiently than trial and error, if one exists.  If I can't get to 
> liking the Cheviot then I'm gonna consider that I'm in the 
> don't-ca

[RBW] Re: Tubeless Maintenance

[Kellie]

I find tubeless to be psychologically rewarding. Nothing better than riding 
an overpass filed with glass residue throughout the bike lane with a "no 
worries" attitude. Everything has a learning curve and once you've got that 
down it's just topping off fluids as necessary.

On Saturday, November 4, 2017 at 2:16:57 PM UTC-7, Kellie wrote:
>
> So my sealant is lasting about 4 months before I have to replenish. Should 
> one do some cleaning of interior parts at some point to get rid of dried, 
> old sealant?
>

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[RBW] My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Michael Rivers]

I have drop bar bikes, and albatross bikes. On my drop bar bikes (Quickbeam, 
old steel Bianchi, Colnago Master), I know how many miles I travel, because 
that is the point. On my alba bikes (Cheviot, AHH), I never know how many 
miles. I am far more concerned with making sure I remember to put my lunch and 
photo equipment in the bag or basket. 

Specific differences between the bikes are gearing, which is lower and, pedals, 
which are always flat, and saddle which is always a bit wider on the alba 
bikes. I also prioritize flat resistance for tires on the alba bikes.

My alba bikes are never as fast as my drop bar bikes, but they are more 
comfortable. Saddle width and distance from the stem are different between the 
two. The length of the stem, for me is always 2-3 cm longer, even on a bike 
made for Alba’s. The angle of the Alba’s and the grips ( I like ergons) can 
also make a difference. Shifting on Alba’s is thumb or bar-ends. It did take 
some time for me to set up the Alba bikes after building drop bar bikes for 
years.

I’m 58, and the Cheviot is my bike for the next 30 years. 

Good luck with your journey. 

Michael 

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[RBW] Re: STOLEN Bay Area, CA: Yellow 1982 Trek 720, 64cm, beloved Rivendell substitute

[ant ritchey]

I'd head straight to the Laney flea market right now if I were you. Send a 
friend to the one at Ashby. I've recovered bikes at both of these within 24 
hours of garage robbery.

On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 5:07:39 PM UTC-8, Jay P wrote:
>
> My beloved 1982 Trek 720 (bright yellow paint) was stolen from my garage 
> an hour ago.   
>
> 64cm, albatross bars, handmade wheels (light blue rims), XT thumb 
> shifters, Nitto seat post, etc
>
> If you see it, please buy it and let me know --- 415   20 3 4784
>
> thank you --- Jay
>

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[RBW] FS: Pair of Paul Neo Retro brakes $90 shipped

[Birdman]

Hey bunch,

I’m letting this pair of used Paul Neo Retro cantilever brakes go. They are in 
great shape and complete, except for one missing mounting bolt for the canti 
bosses. Includes a set of new Koop Stop pads that came with brakes when 
purchased.  Everything you see here:

https://instagram.com/p/BeOkuXjnivu/

$90 shipped conus 

Thanks,

Isaac

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[RBW] FS: Pair of Paul Neo Retro brakes $90 shipped

[Birdman]

I forgot to add, they do not come with cable hangers, only what is pictured.

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[RBW] Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[John G.]

Hi everyone,

First, a disclaimer: I may be crazy, and this may all be in my head.

Backstory: Back in Oct, I collided with another cyclist while riding my 
Atlantis. The fork and headtube were knocked out of alignment. Took the 
bike to my shop, who sent it to one framemaker to get it realigned. 
According to my shop, the framemaker did a decent job with the headtube, 
but didn't quite get the fork right. So I'm told the fork went off to 
Waterford, who realigned it and sent it back to the shop. There's no 
documentation or receipts for any of this, but I have no reason to doubt 
why my shop told me.

Since getting the bike back from the shop, I've noticed that the handling 
feels a bit off. Symptoms are:

1. The tracking feels wobbly, as if the bike has to work reaally hard 
to hold a straight line. It's much more noticeable when I ride one-handed. 
2. This one is harder to explain, but a bit scarier: on long, gently 
curving descents, the front end has a tendency to dip suddenly when I go 
into the curve. There's then a feeling that the bike rights tries to right 
itself, and it wobbles a bit more.

Things I'm trying to rule out:
- front wheel is out of true. I'm 95% the wheel is true, but I haven't put 
it into a truing stand.
- stem/handlebars are off-center. I'm driving myself crazy on this one, but 
I'm pretty sure everything is centered.

Any ideas? Any recommendations?

Thanks,
John

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[RBW] Re: Frame Pump for a 59-60cm gap?

[John G.]

The Silca is spendy, but I love mine. It travels from bike to bike. Fits my 
61cm Atlantis very well.

On Saturday, January 20, 2018 at 6:06:15 PM UTC-5, Birdman wrote:
>
> Thanks, Stuart.  Spendy is right!
>

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[RBW] Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[Deacon Patrick]

First, body memory tends to be very accurate (though our brains can get too in 
involved and confuse the issue, but I’d be surprised if that was going on 
here). You viscerally notice the handling is different, feels wrong, and is 
less smooth and predictable than before. Trust that, and get a second and/or 
third opinion. Possibly send the whole bike to Waterford? I don’t know how 
these things work.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[Joe Bernard]

I'd send it to Rivendell. Grant will know straight away if it's not handling 
right. 

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[RBW] My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Palmer]

Hello Dave,
Upright is relative. I ride “upright” bars, Soma Oxford, VO porteur ,and 
sunlight alloy touring. It is all about back angle for me. Because the bars 
come back a lot, I have shifted to very long stems and longer top tubes than my 
drop bar bikes. I check the bike coop regularly and scored a 150mm and 140mm 
last week. The back hand position is even with or a little forward it the head 
tube. This is comfortable all day and leaning in enough to feel powerful and 
efficient. Yesterday was really windy, 20-25 from the south. Going north was 
sitting up on the ergon grips and fast feeling. Return trip into teeth of the 
wind I was on the bends with slightly bent elbows and feeling fine. Still a 
hard ride in the middle of winter in Michigan, but enjoyable. A low stem, not 
necessarily slammed helps too. 
I have ridden group rides with the Oxfords and did fine even in front. Sitting 
up behind a big guy almost feels like cheating because I am so comfortable. 
Good luck on the quest, ride what you enjoy. 
Tom Palmer 
Twin Lake, MI

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[RBW] Re: Butternut Appaloosa with Woody fenders

[Joe Bernard]

Ann: The tires are Fatty Rumpkins from Riv. Nice lightish street tires that 
should do ok on fire roads, too. 

https://www.rivbike.com/collections/tires/products/fatty-rumpkin-650b-x-41-tire-force-field-blue-label

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 2:16:13 PM UTC-6, Dave Small wrote:
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, 
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?
> 

Sounds VERY similar to my own experience. I’ve been thinking about writing a 
post on this, following the earlier thread on upright riding. I first tried 
Albatross bars on a Quickbeam and didn’t like the way it handled (squirrely 
front end). We also have a CoMotion Periscopa tandem that has Albatross bars 
because it’s our “kids and guests” tandem so gets used by people of widely 
varying sizes, and it works well for that.

I have gone through a number of iterations with my Cheviot, today being 
iteration number 6 or so. I just took drop bars (on a short Dirt Drop stem) off 
of it and replaced them with VO Belleville. Haven’t gone anywhere on it, yet, 
but initial feel is “wow are these narrow!” I’ve now tried Albatross, Choco, 
Mustache, and drop (Nitto 176) with a variety of stem lengths and heights, 
ranging from a bolt upright (think Dutch) position to something close to my 
normal road bike position. 

I bought the Cheviot intending it to be my daily commuting bike. It’s an 8.5 
mile mostly flat, half on a bike path route with a small amount of “urban” 
riding at one end. Here on the shores of Lake Michigan, though, there is always 
the wind. And, like Dave, I find the Cheviot to be very hard to ride. 
Objectively, measured over many rides, the bike adds around 5 minutes to what 
is normally around 35 minutes, much more if using upright bars and there’s a 
headwind. Coming home last week, riding with a guy I occasionally meet on the 
commute, he dropped me like a rock on the little hill near home. Normally I can 
keep up with him with a bit of effort. Yeah, snow tires don’t help, but it 
wasn’t just that. The Cheviot simply doesn’t reward you for pushing harder on 
the pedals.  On the contrary, it makes my knees hurt when I try to ride it like 
my other bikes. It’s plenty comfortable as long as you don’t try to accelerate. 
Slow, steady, build up momentum over time, and it’s fine. My commute is just 
long enough that most days I want a more sprightly ride. The riding position 
with drop bars and a short stem is nice and familiar, and I’m sure I could ride 
a long distance comfortably with it but I’d be working harder than on my other 
bikes. All that said, the Cheviot is great for running errands, and a more 
upright position for that is just fine. I’m trying the Belleville bars because 
I find Alba and Choco to be too wide. The Belleville might be a bit to much the 
other direction - we’ll see! 

As for commuting, I’m in the fortunate position of having a Terraferma Corsa 
650B that I replaced with a Waterford ST for brevet riding. The Terraferma is 
brilliant for commuting - handles my backpack on the front rack perfectly, low 
BB, cushy tires, very responsive frame for sprinting to make a light. 

Ted Durant
Milwaukee, WI USA

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[RBW] Re: Butternut Appaloosa with Woody fenders

['Ann L' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Joe:

I think this is the first time I've seen them installed on a bike.  I 
really like the terra cotta and black combo.  The blue is stunning in 
natural light :)

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 4:49:08 PM UTC-6, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ann: The tires are Fatty Rumpkins from Riv. Nice lightish street tires 
> that should do ok on fire roads, too. 
>
>
> https://www.rivbike.com/collections/tires/products/fatty-rumpkin-650b-x-41-tire-force-field-blue-label
>

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[RBW] Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[Deacon Patrick]

Then there’s the best idea, from Joe. Send it to the source.

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] LF or Trade

[Carla Waugh]

Brooks Cambium C17S barely used in brown I would like to trade for a Brooks B17 
Special in any color that’s in really good shape. If I can’t find a trade then 
this sadddle is FS for 80.00
Plus 10 for shipping.

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Antone Könst]

I used to have a 62 Surly CC with Albas, and had the same problem you're 
having...uncomfortably in-between.  Sadly (and luckily?) it was stolen, and 
I got a 60cm Cheviot that I use for long rides and commuting, with the 
largest (58?) boscos and bar tape on the flat part by the stem.  Against 
wind or on long distances I drop to that, which is about level with my 
seat, and otherwise I'm up with my hands about 4 inches above my seat, very 
very comfortable either way.  I think try the Boscos so you can get your 
hands UP and BACK, so you are truly upright, and get them wide enough to 
fit your shoulders, and importantly get a different seat.  Yours looks 
great for drops but if your hands are above your seat I'd get the C19, 
which really changed my comfort sitting upright, as most of the weight is 
on the saddle, but doesn't become uncomfortable when i drop down. 
If you try drops on the Cheviot tho I'd be curious to hear about 
it...sometimes I rest my hands on my basket, about where the bottom of 
drops would be, when I'm really tired and upwind. 



On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 3:16:13 PM UTC-5, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>
> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>
> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
> is.  
>
> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd intended 
> to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that relatively short 
> distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical ride for me on a 
> drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On the Cheviot I felt 
> slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, with the most 
> natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively speaking) and 
> holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front.  But that's 
> close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in essence I was 
> mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't comfortable in 
> the position in which the Albas were designed to put me.  Also, my hands 
> got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the ride I tried to 
> wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my fingers, and 
> they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd initially planned to 
> on that ride because I thought maybe I needed more time or distance to 
> acclimate to the Albas, but instead of things feeling better they felt 
> worse as the ride progressed.  
>
> With that background, I have 2 questions for the group:
>
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, for 
> example by raising or lowering the bars or the angle of the bars or 
> changing the stem extension?  There was a recent thread that indicated not 
> everyone likes upright bars (which I read only after I'd built up the 
> Cheviot), but it didn't get to my specific question about whether someone 
> could convert from nonliker to liker of uprights by adjusting 'em.  
>
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?  I know they're not designed 
> for drops, but given that I liked the extended position the best, I'm 
> thinking that drops might be more suitable for me than uprights.  And 
> follow-up question:  Would drops on a Cheviot make it essentially a mixte 
> Sam Hillborne but with longer chain stays?  I'm thinking yes, and 

[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[lconley]

I have tried albatrosses and boscos on a variety of bicycles, as well as 
basically flat horizontal bars (Nitto Jitensha) as well as bullmooses on a 
variety of bikes, Sam Hillborne, Betty Foy, Bombadil, Clementine, a couple of 
different kind of Roscoes. The only really comfortable bike with uprights is 
the Clementine with bullmoose boscos. I have been riding drops since 1970 (I 
turn 62 this year) and it could be that I am just used to them. It could also 
be that my body proportions are several standard deviations from the norm - I 
am 6’ tall with a 83.5 PBH - short legs, long torso - the upright bars just 
seem too close - I find myself gripping the bars forward of the brake levers. I 
like the flat bars on some bikes until I start doing distance. I am currently 
converting my Bombadil from bullmoose to randonneur drops. 

Laing

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[RBW] Re: Butternut Appaloosa with Woody fenders

[Joe Bernard]

The blue did kinda work out, didn't it? :-) So did the butternut, especially 
with the wood fenders. This makes me want to snap up a butternut Clem H and do 
the same thing...I don't need another bike!

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Lester Lammers]

I'm 65 and got a 55cm Cheviot 15 months ago as my old man's paper boy bike. 
It has been frustrating to get it dialed in. Being bolt upright was not for 
me. This helped: http://zedmartinez.com/category/personal/biking/ So did 
the recent posts here on the subject. I won't go intp all the iterations I 
tried but I *think* I have settled on 58cm Bosco bars with Dia Comp stoker 
knobs, saddle back more than a drop bar bike and a 130cm Nitto Talus stem. 
The wider bars, longer stem, more weight on the front wheel, seem to make 
steering snappier and the knobs are handy for cruising. It's my first 
upright frame in 50+ years and is now growing on me.

Since you have the threadless stem converter you could try flipping the 
Albas with a VO stem with a 17 degree rise. I have a 120cm that I can send 
you.



On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 3:16:13 PM UTC-5, Dave Small wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>
> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>
> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
> is.  
>
> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd intended 
> to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that relatively short 
> distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical ride for me on a 
> drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On the Cheviot I felt 
> slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, with the most 
> natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively speaking) and 
> holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front.  But that's 
> close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in essence I was 
> mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't comfortable in 
> the position in which the Albas were designed to put me.  Also, my hands 
> got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the ride I tried to 
> wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my fingers, and 
> they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd initially planned to 
> on that ride because I thought maybe I needed more time or distance to 
> acclimate to the Albas, but instead of things feeling better they felt 
> worse as the ride progressed.  
>
> With that background, I have 2 questions for the group:
>
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, for 
> example by raising or lowering the bars or the angle of the bars or 
> changing the stem extension?  There was a recent thread that indicated not 
> everyone likes upright bars (which I read only after I'd built up the 
> Cheviot), but it didn't get to my specific question about whether someone 
> could convert from nonliker to liker of uprights by adjusting 'em.  
>
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?  I know they're not designed 
> for drops, but given that I liked the extended position the best, I'm 
> thinking that drops might be more suitable for me than uprights.  And 
> follow-up question:  Would drops on a Cheviot make it essentially a mixte 
> Sam Hillborne but with longer chain stays?  I'm thinking yes, and I don't 
> need to duplicate the 2 Sams I already have.  
>
> Thanks in advance for any input on this.  I know I could continue to play 
> with set-ups and hope to stumble across a solution, but I'm tired of that 
> and about ready to give up on the Cheviot a

Re: [RBW] Re: Tubeless Maintenance

[Bill M.]

Tubeless ain't easier, just more flat-proof and a little nicer riding.  I 
have two bikes set tubeless and like how they ride, but I'm fine with 
trading effort up front in the garage to avoid fixing flats on the road 
later on.  If you don't flat much that effort and the cost of sealant may 
not pay off for you.  

Bill
Stockton, CA

On Wednesday, January 17, 2018 at 7:53:29 AM UTC-8, William! wrote:
>
> I’ve been thinking about converting to tubeless as well (both my rims and 
> tires are compatible) but have been scared away by their new-fangledness 
> and reputation for being fussy. I already have pretty good luck with my 
> tubes, very rarely a puncture flat but I have had pinch flats when running 
> lower pressure on trails. I have zero interest in performance, weight, 
> rolling resistance etc. 
>
>
> Will tubeless save me hassle or create it? Anyone tried tubeless and not 
> found it easier? Do you have to pump up your tires more often than with 
> tubed? Other gotchas or hidden maintenance costs I should consider?

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Deacon Patrick]

This is a nuanced thought I’m not sure how to best convey, but riding between 
my new Moustache’s curves and more upright shifts how my core is engaged. I 
suspect if you live/ move in a way that has your core strong one way but not 
the other, it makes perfect sense that one would feel better than the other. 
This is all conjecture on my part, but if the core is more fully strong and 
well ballance in it’s strength, perhaps that would make both positions more 
comfortable?

With abandon,
Patrick

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[RBW] Re: FS: Pair of Paul Neo Retro brakes $90 shipped

[Birdman]

SOLD - thanks for the interest

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Re: [RBW] Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[Reed Kennedy]

One other thought: In the past, after others have worked on one of my
frames or forks, I have had all kinds of spooky handling come down to a
headset that either isn't adjusted right or doesn't have enough grease in
it. Now, a good shop should have checked both those things, but it might be
worth a double-check.


Reed

On Sun, Jan 21, 2018 at 3:08 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Then there’s the best idea, from Joe. Send it to the source.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

['Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I've put a set of albatross bars on almost every bike I've had in the past 
few years, including one with the same geometry as some current Rivs, and 
no amount of tweaking could make them feel good or even bearable.  I think 
upright, pullback bars just aren't for everyone.  I say this as someone who 
really, really wanted to like them.  



On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 2:16:13 PM UTC-6, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>
> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>
> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
> is.  
>
> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd intended 
> to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that relatively short 
> distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical ride for me on a 
> drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On the Cheviot I felt 
> slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, with the most 
> natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively speaking) and 
> holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front.  But that's 
> close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in essence I was 
> mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't comfortable in 
> the position in which the Albas were designed to put me.  Also, my hands 
> got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the ride I tried to 
> wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my fingers, and 
> they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd initially planned to 
> on that ride because I thought maybe I needed more time or distance to 
> acclimate to the Albas, but instead of things feeling better they felt 
> worse as the ride progressed.  
>
> With that background, I have 2 questions for the group:
>
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, for 
> example by raising or lowering the bars or the angle of the bars or 
> changing the stem extension?  There was a recent thread that indicated not 
> everyone likes upright bars (which I read only after I'd built up the 
> Cheviot), but it didn't get to my specific question about whether someone 
> could convert from nonliker to liker of uprights by adjusting 'em.  
>
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?  I know they're not designed 
> for drops, but given that I liked the extended position the best, I'm 
> thinking that drops might be more suitable for me than uprights.  And 
> follow-up question:  Would drops on a Cheviot make it essentially a mixte 
> Sam Hillborne but with longer chain stays?  I'm thinking yes, and I don't 
> need to duplicate the 2 Sams I already have.  
>
> Thanks in advance for any input on this.  I know I could continue to play 
> with set-ups and hope to stumble across a solution, but I'm tired of that 
> and about ready to give up on the Cheviot and am hoping to find a solution 
> more efficiently than trial and error, if one exists.  If I can't get to 
> liking the Cheviot then I'm gonna consider that I'm in the 
> don't-care-for-uprights camp, but first wanted to eliminate the possibility 
> that there's a simple solution I'm just not seeing.  
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[Christopher Murray]

Id look at the headset and front wheel. I’d think Waterford made the fork like 
new. I think something would have to be way off with the frame to have this 
kind of issue. I’d try swapping wheels if you have one available. If not then 
have it checked out by an experienced mechanic. I’d prob also try changing out 
the headset or at least removing it entirely and reinstalling it. 

If neither of these fix the issue I’d send it to Rivendell. 

Let us know what you discover. 

Chris

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Eric Karnes]

I'm another rider who really, really wanted to like the feel of albatross 
bars as much as I love the look. But alas, after trying them on three 
Rivendells and multiple other bikes, I have to admit that they just ain't 
for me. When it comes to upright (i.e. non-drops), I seem to prefer the 45 
degree angle of Jones Loop or Ahearne bars. As my long legs and T-rex arms 
won't allow me to use drops on any production bike I've yet come across, 
I've also had luck mimicking the hood position on a couple of other 
uprights, such as barends on a narrow flat bar or the front of VO Porteur 
bars. 

Good luck with the Cheviot!

Eric

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 7:40:40 PM UTC-5, Chris Lampe 2 wrote:
>
> I've put a set of albatross bars on almost every bike I've had in the past 
> few years, including one with the same geometry as some current Rivs, and 
> no amount of tweaking could make them feel good or even bearable.  I think 
> upright, pullback bars just aren't for everyone.  I say this as someone who 
> really, really wanted to like them.  
>
>
>
> On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 2:16:13 PM UTC-6, Dave Small wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
>> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
>> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
>> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
>> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
>> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
>> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>>
>> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
>> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
>> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
>> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
>> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
>> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
>> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
>> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
>> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
>> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>>
>> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
>> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
>> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
>> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
>> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
>> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
>> is.  
>>
>> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd 
>> intended to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that 
>> relatively short distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical 
>> ride for me on a drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On 
>> the Cheviot I felt slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, 
>> with the most natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively 
>> speaking) and holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front. 
>>  But that's close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in 
>> essence I was mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't 
>> comfortable in the position in which the Albas were designed to put me. 
>>  Also, my hands got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the 
>> ride I tried to wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my 
>> fingers, and they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd 
>> initially planned to on that ride because I thought maybe I needed more 
>> time or distance to acclimate to the Albas, but instead of things feeling 
>> better they felt worse as the ride progressed.  
>>
>> With that background, I have 2 questions for the group:
>>
>> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, for 
>> example by raising or lowering the bars or the angle of the bars or 
>> changing the stem extension?  There was a recent thread that indicated not 
>> everyone likes upright bars (which I read only after I'd built up the 
>> Cheviot), but it didn't get to my specific question about whether someone 
>> could convert from nonliker to liker of uprights by adjusting 'em.  
>>
>> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?  I know they're not designed 
>> for drops, but given that I liked the extended position the best, I'm 
>> thinking that drops might be more suitable for me than uprights.  And 
>> follow-up question:  Would drops on a Cheviot make it essentially a mixte 
>> Sam Hillbor

[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[dstein]

I kinda went through something similar. I could never get it dialed in 
right. I had a cheviot briefly, a hunqapillar with a million different 
handlebar combos including albatross, an old rigid mtn bike I put Rosco's 
on, nothing really worked for me. I was riding around on a cruiser in 
Amsterdam for 3 days when I realized, it's not really the bike, it's the 
riding. At home I like to ride for recreation, but even for short errands I 
tend to go fast since in the US it's still a mile or 2 to run errands and 
you have to weave in and out of traffic and generally can go faster. When 
you're in a dense city where you can get everywhere you need in a few 
square miles and there's plenty of bike infrastructure, and everyone is 
going slow talking on their phones, checking email, toting a kid and 
grandma, it's just a whole different type of riding that lends itself 
really well to upright bars. Then I see pictures of Riv employees tearing 
it up in the nearby Shell Ridge open space on lunch

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Re: [RBW] Skewer Question

[Ed Fausto]

Same as lum gim fong's suggestion, I use pitlock on my rear and front Son
Hub wheelset on my Cheviot and Atlantis.

On Sat, Jan 20, 2018 at 3:42 PM, lum gim fong  wrote:

> You can use Pitlock skewers for security.
>
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[RBW] FS- Nitto, MKS, Suntour, Carradice, Sugino & more

[ant ritchey]

buy sell buy sell ride buy sell ride ride ride buy buy sell sell buy stress 
out cross post to ibob (or something like this)

mks lambda grip kings- good condition. $25
sugino alpina 2 triple- 170mm, 110/74bcd. scuffed but in good shape. no 
rings. $45
crane hammer strike. brass. $7
shimano mtb levers bl-r550. silver, pristine condition. $20
carradice cadet. very good condition. black, includes 3 leather straps. $45
nitto bosco. heat treated. 550 width. installed/never ridden, pristine. $70
sunrace thumbshifter- rear 9 spd very good condition. $15
mks sylvan quills w/ mks cages & christophe leather straps in black. spin 
smooth, super handsome. $30
shimano bar end shifters, 8 spd sl-bs50. $45
shimano down tube shifters, 8 speed sl-r400. $15
zefal pump (45cm long) w/ mount. $15
miyata fork, 1" threaded for 700c. canti mounts, mid fork & double eyelets. 
Steerer is 5 3/8", with top 35mm threaded. $10
shimano front derailleur for triple FD-2303. braze-on version, IRD clamp 
(which ran me $18 ha!) for 28.6 included. $10
timbuk2 messenger bag, water proof! 17" x 11"Used but very good condition, 
all straps and buckles function perfectly. $10
shimano Sante SL-5000 7 spd SIS downtube shifter set. Good condition. $20
suntour XCE triple crank 175mm, 48-38-28, good condition. $15

prices dont include shipping. PM or text for photos, inquiries- 72FORE 757 
935ATE

thanks y'all!

ant ritchey / pdx

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[RBW] Re: STOLEN Bay Area, CA: Yellow 1982 Trek 720, 64cm, beloved Rivendell substitute

[Jay P]

Berkeley -- by Ashby station...

Fingers still crossed 

Thank you -

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 7:50:35 AM UTC-8, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> Where in the Bay Area?
> Also: check BikeIndex, BA Stolen bike google group, etc. 
>
> -J
>

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[RBW] Re: Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[RonaTD]

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 4:27:06 PM UTC-6, John G. wrote:

> 1. The tracking feels wobbly, as if the bike has to work reaally hard 
> to hold a straight line. It's much more noticeable when I ride one-handed. 
> 2. This one is harder to explain, but a bit scarier: on long, gently 
> curving descents, the front end has a tendency to dip suddenly when I go 
> into the curve. There's then a feeling that the bike rights tries to right 
> itself, and it wobbles a bit more.
>

That sounds very much like my Cheviot, which turned out to have a fork that 
was off in a couple of directions. My suggestion for "eyeballing" it (my 
fork was off enough that it was visible) is:
1. Sight with one eye down the front of the head tube and, perpendicular to 
that axis, line up the front "shoulders" of the fork crown with the fronts 
of the fork ends. They should line up nicely. If one is well forward of the 
other it will be clear.
2. Pull the handlebar stem out of the steerer and sight down the inside of 
the steerer. (If you have a fender installed, that needs to come out, too.) 
The center of the tire should be right down the center of the steerer. If 
the forks are pushed to one side, it will be clear. To be more accurate, 
you can remove the tire and tube from the wheel.

Of course, you should also check the dish of the front wheel and, as noted, 
make sure the headset is installed correctly.

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[RBW] Re: Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

I don't know a lot about this kind of thing, but I imagine it would take 
quite a lot of force to knock a head tube out of alignment. Usually the 
fork will go, then the down tube will ripple before anything happens with 
the head tube. When you say the fork was realigned, was it the fork blades, 
or the steerer tube, or both?

I agree that checking the head set makes sense--be sure the cups are seated 
correctly, bearing retainers are properly oriented, etc. I don't think an 
out of true wheel could cause these symptoms--at least not one that you can 
still ride without it hitting the brakes. But perhaps the axle got bent or 
broken in the collision? Some of the handling issues sound similar to 
"indexed steering," or what could happen when a headset gets brinelled. I'm 
not sure how that could happen due to a collision, though. It usually 
happens over time.


On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 5:27:06 PM UTC-5, John G. wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> First, a disclaimer: I may be crazy, and this may all be in my head.
>
> Backstory: Back in Oct, I collided with another cyclist while riding my 
> Atlantis. The fork and headtube were knocked out of alignment. Took the 
> bike to my shop, who sent it to one framemaker to get it realigned. 
> According to my shop, the framemaker did a decent job with the headtube, 
> but didn't quite get the fork right. So I'm told the fork went off to 
> Waterford, who realigned it and sent it back to the shop. There's no 
> documentation or receipts for any of this, but I have no reason to doubt 
> why my shop told me.
>
> Since getting the bike back from the shop, I've noticed that the handling 
> feels a bit off. Symptoms are:
>
> 1. The tracking feels wobbly, as if the bike has to work reaally hard 
> to hold a straight line. It's much more noticeable when I ride one-handed. 
> 2. This one is harder to explain, but a bit scarier: on long, gently 
> curving descents, the front end has a tendency to dip suddenly when I go 
> into the curve. There's then a feeling that the bike rights tries to right 
> itself, and it wobbles a bit more.
>
> Things I'm trying to rule out:
> - front wheel is out of true. I'm 95% the wheel is true, but I haven't put 
> it into a truing stand.
> - stem/handlebars are off-center. I'm driving myself crazy on this one, 
> but I'm pretty sure everything is centered.
>
> Any ideas? Any recommendations?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Surlyprof]

I'm right there with you, Dave.  My Hillborne came with Albatross bars and 
I never warmed up to them.  My old Bianchi was the swan song for drop bars 
for me.  The more upright riding is great for urban riding and as I've been 
getting older I was getting a little neck pain from drops.  I finally bit 
the bullet and dropped about $300 on a set of Albastache bars, brake levers 
and stem.  Absolutely love them!  They still provide the fast-ish-feeling 
lean that I missed from the drops but still enabled me to get a bit more 
upright when I wanted a new body position.  Lots of others say how they 
just can't get used to Albastache or get hand pain from them but I feel the 
same about Albatross.  The past year I've had to go back the Albatross bars 
because of a shoulder ailment and, although it is a very nice set up (Paul 
levers and thumbies and beautiful Brooks slender grips), I desperately miss 
the Albastache.  As soon as I get the time to convert back, I will.  You 
may want to try a set.  They are in between, but in a good way.  They feel 
somewhere between Albatross, Dirt Drops and straight bars to me.


John

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 12:16:13 PM UTC-8, Dave Small wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>
> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>
> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
> is.  
>
> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd intended 
> to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that relatively short 
> distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical ride for me on a 
> drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On the Cheviot I felt 
> slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, with the most 
> natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively speaking) and 
> holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front.  But that's 
> close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in essence I was 
> mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't comfortable in 
> the position in which the Albas were designed to put me.  Also, my hands 
> got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the ride I tried to 
> wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my fingers, and 
> they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd initially planned to 
> on that ride because I thought maybe I needed more time or distance to 
> acclimate to the Albas, but instead of things feeling better they felt 
> worse as the ride progressed.  
>
> With that background, I have 2 questions for the group:
>
> 1.  Has anyone else experienced something similar and then fixed it, for 
> example by raising or lowering the bars or the angle of the bars or 
> changing the stem extension?  There was a recent thread that indicated not 
> everyone likes upright bars (which I read only after I'd built up the 
> Cheviot), but it didn't get to my specific question about whether someone 
> could convert from nonliker to liker of uprights by adjusting 'em.  
>
> 2.  Has anyone used drop bars on a Cheviot?  I know they're not designed 
> for drops, but given that I liked the extended position the best, I'm 
> thinking that drops might be more suitable for me than uprights.  And 
> follow-up question:  Would drops on a Cheviot make it essentially a mixte 
> Sam H

[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[tc]

Great pic here of 
a Blue Lug Chev with Albastache bars.  Looks pretty cool to my eye

My first Sam had Albatross bars.  Comfortable, but I felt kinda "pokey" 
after riding around for 10 min.  I'd sit up for a while, then find myself 
slipping forward into the curves so I could turn it up a notch -- but that 
wasn't the best hand position on those bars for a lengthy ride.  My wife 
rode it and loved it, and it became her Sam.

I ordered another Sam for me with Noodles with bar ends, wrapped with the 
black cork tape that Riv sells, and love them.  They're set about a 1/4" 
above saddle height.  Very comfortable and of course many hand positions.

I'll be installing Albastache bars on the SimpleOne I got from group member 
Ben.  We'll see how that goes.  Live and learn...

Tom

On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 10:40:02 PM UTC-5, Surlyprof wrote:
>
> I'm right there with you, Dave.  My Hillborne came with Albatross bars and 
> I never warmed up to them.  My old Bianchi was the swan song for drop bars 
> for me.  The more upright riding is great for urban riding and as I've been 
> getting older I was getting a little neck pain from drops.  I finally bit 
> the bullet and dropped about $300 on a set of Albastache bars, brake levers 
> and stem.  Absolutely love them!  They still provide the fast-ish-feeling 
> lean that I missed from the drops but still enabled me to get a bit more 
> upright when I wanted a new body position.  Lots of others say how they 
> just can't get used to Albastache or get hand pain from them but I feel the 
> same about Albatross.  The past year I've had to go back the Albatross bars 
> because of a shoulder ailment and, although it is a very nice set up (Paul 
> levers and thumbies and beautiful Brooks slender grips), I desperately miss 
> the Albastache.  As soon as I get the time to convert back, I will.  You 
> may want to try a set.  They are in between, but in a good way.  They feel 
> somewhere between Albatross, Dirt Drops and straight bars to me.
>
>
> John
>
> On Sunday, January 21, 2018 at 12:16:13 PM UTC-8, Dave Small wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> As I read more and more testimonials from people about how awesome their 
>> switch was to upright handlebars, I wanted to try 'em.  I like drop bars as 
>> long as they're saddle-height or higher, but there's a semi-conscious part 
>> of me that feels the teensiest-bit compelled to push drop-bar bikes just a 
>> little, and sometimes I want to just putz along and enjoy the scenery, and 
>> not even consider my speed or trip time.  Plus, as I get older I thought 
>> that uprights may be in my future anyway, so why not give 'em a shot now?
>>
>> So, I took a Velo-Orange Polyvalent and replaced the drop bars with 
>> porteur bars.  It's okay, but I feel like I'm kinda caught between a 
>> forward lean and sitting upright, in a no-man's land of Tweenerville.  So 
>> maybe this isn't the right bike on which to test upright bars, I thought, 
>> so I converted a V-O Campeur from drop bars to V-O Left Bank bars.  Nope, I 
>> thought, not fond of this.  But those Albatross bars that everyone thinks 
>> is the bees knees?---let's try *those* on the Campeur!  It was better, 
>> and I thought it might actually be fine, but the more I rode it the less I 
>> liked it, so I swapped the bars back to drop and was reminded of what a 
>> great bike the Campeur is---with drops.  
>>
>> Maybe those are the wrong bikes for uprights, I though, so I bought a 
>> Cheviot and set it up with Albatross bars, 'cause the Cheviot was 
>> *designed* for Albatross bars and Albas are *the best*, right?  Right? 
>>  Everyone says so, so it must be true.  As I was engaging in this 
>> experiment I thought to myself that would be the Gold Standard of 
>> Upright-Bar Setups, and if I don't like this then I must not like upright 
>> bars---but meanwhile I was sure it'd be *good* because everyone says it 
>> is.  
>>
>> I don't like it.  A couple of days ago I took it out for what I'd 
>> intended to be a 13-mile trial ride to see how things went at that 
>> relatively short distance, and ended up going 24 miles.  That's a typical 
>> ride for me on a drop-bar bike, and know how I feel when I get home.  On 
>> the Cheviot I felt slow and never quite comfortable in a upright position, 
>> with the most natural feeling coming when I was stretched out (relatively 
>> speaking) and holding onto the bends that are furtherest toward the front. 
>>  But that's close to where the bends would be on a drop-bar bike, so in 
>> essence I was mimicking the position I'd be in on such a bike, and wasn't 
>> comfortable in the position in which the Albas were designed to put me. 
>>  Also, my hands got kinda numb and didn't work well; toward the end of the 
>> ride I tried to wave a car through an intersection ahead of me by waving my 
>> fingers, and they wouldn't bend.  I went a longer distance than I'd 
>> initially plann

[RBW] Re: My trials and tribulations with upright bars

[Dave Redmon]

You might find a sweet spot by flipping your Albatross bars upside down and 
placing your brake levers on the curves toward the front a la the Moustache and 
Albastache bars. Combined with a long stem, placing my hands forward near both 
levers provides fun control and the comfortable stretch I need most of the 
time. When I need to shift gears or just take a break in t'other direction, I 
grab the bar ends. I count three hand and wrist positions with my bars flipped 
in this manner. On longer rides (more than 40 miles) I prefer my second bike 
with drop bars. On a third bike equipped for errands, I have Ahearne-type bars 
with grips set at 45 degrees.

Dave in Kansas 

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[RBW] Re: Need Help Diagnosing Weird Handling on my Atlantis

[lum gim fong]

Tires inflated and beads set properly?
I know its like asking “Is it plugged in?” when troubleshooting, but this can 
cause squirrelly handling.

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[RBW] Re: Butternut Appaloosa with Woody fenders

['Clayton' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Esthetically luscious, all in all. Nice job. 


Clayton 
Bend, Or. 


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