[RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[EasyRider]

Your photos did not load properly, please repost them. 

On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the 
> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>
> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
>
> This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads 
> directly into it, no nuts involved.
>
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The 
> head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with 
> the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that 
> there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note 
> that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider 
> so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 
> picture below.
>
>
> 
>
> Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in the 
> photo below that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes 
> operation.
>
>
>
> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the 
> brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>
>
> The only solution I can see is to use something like the extra long bolt 
> kit for converting the Racer brake to a non-recessed brake.  At 
> $14 plus shipping from CA to CT I think it would be cheaper to go the 
> local hardware store.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 9:40:35 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>
>> As others have said, it works.  These brakes are exactly like any other 
>> brake as far as mounting to the frame or fork.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 2.35 inch tires on Atlas rims

[Geeter]

They will work.  I ran big apples on 20mm wide WTB rims on my Ogre and they 
were bombproof.

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Hunqapillar 58cm Frameset

[Geeter]

One is up today.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom bike

[Bruce]

The very one!

  From: Brewster Fong 
 To: RBW Owners Bunch  
 Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2017 11:34 PM
 Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Custom bike
   


On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 8:07:58 PM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:
And don't forget the Sauron MTB ;)

You mean this one?
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom bike

[Ron Mc]

Beautiful frame.  

On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 12:48:23 PM UTC-5, ttoshi wrote:
>
> I don't have an instagram account either, but you can look at the riv 
> instagram pictures through a link in the Blug.  Here is the link to my 
> picture: https://www.instagram.com/p/BX6vQ-gl7WQ/
>
> Toshi
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[EasyRider]

Ok, I think I might have the answer here. 

I think you may be under the impression that the recessed nut, and bolt in that 
product shot are one piece -- one bolt that threads directly into the brake 
arms from the rear of the fork. That is not the case. The wide, unthreaded 
portion of what you are calling "a bolt" is actually a recessed nut. The 
product photo just shows it threaded on. The Sheldon but replaces that nut, on 
a Paul racer or any other brake. If your frame is not drilled to accept a 
recessed nut, you can buy non-recessed versions of the racer. You don't have to 
modify it yourself. And if you buy a non recessed version, there's prob no need 
for a Sheldon nut.

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[RBW] Re: I like MTBubbe, but this build's not quite there yet.

[Bill Lindsay]

On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 9:25:21 PM UTC-7, Paul Clifton wrote:
>
> Thanks y'all.
>
> Bill, how does yours climb? I suspect it feels a lot different with the 
> saddle much higher and drops. But that puts you even farther back over the 
> back wheel, so I'm curious whether yours encourages taking it easy uphills 
> also.
>
>
> My Bubbe mountain climbs extremely well.  As you report, climbing is 
mainly about the motor, and drop bars put the motor in a position to be 
powerful and efficient.  So, I agree with you that you have put yourself in 
a position that is too upright for power and efficiency and you are 
experiencing that fact.  I'm also running SPD pedals on mine, and during 
steep dirt-climbs, being able to pull up on the pedals is helpful.  I'm 
trying to tease out the objective meaning of the word "fun" when you and 
Patrick Moore talk about 'honking'.  You both say that 'honking' is fun 
and/or that you enjoy 'honking'.  The webpage that Patrick Moore shared, 
defining the term 'honking' makes it very clear that honking is both 
less-efficient and slower, so I think you both are just talking about 
subjective pleasure of climbing out of the saddle and mashing a high gear, 
and you don't care that you are 'wasting' energy.  That's cool (for you).  
I personally don't find a bunch of enjoyment in mashing too high a gear, 
riding more slowly and less efficiently, but that's just me.  Patrick Moore 
describes eloquently and prolifically about the meditative zen-state he 
achieves slowly mashing up a hill in a gear that others would consider 
too-high.  It's not about speed, it's about something more 'mystical', I 
suppose, but it's definitely subjective.  When somebody asks me if my bike 
"climbs well", I think of objective measurements, like speed.  If I pin it 
on a single track climb, my Bubbe mountain is just a few seconds per mile 
slower than my contemporary mountain bike (according to Strava).  At the 
top of one particular such climb (Meadows Canyon in the Berkeley hills), 
there is a short rocky and rooted pitch that right on the edge of the kind 
of thing I can "clean" (get through it without putting a foot down).  If 
there are no hikers on that pitch I always take a run at it, and I clean it 
maybe a little more than half the time.  I clean it more like 80% of the 
time with drop bars, and more like 30% of the time with flat/upright bars 
of any kind.  I cleaned it first-try on my Bubbe mountain.  By those 
semi-objective metrics I'd say my Bubbe mountain climbs extremely well, and 
I would attribute that in large part to the fact that I set it up to do 
that.  I suppose some people would say that the bike is encouraging me to 
ride strong, but I think of it as my riding position encouraging me.  If I 
swapped cockpits with you, and had a high-rise stem plus an albatross bar 
on the same bike, I'm certain it would not climb as well.  

Bill Lindsay
El Cerrito, CA

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[RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[Nash Taylor]

Do you have the brakes in hand or are you looking at pictures?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom bike

['Mark in Beacon' via RBW Owners Bunch]

Are those fenders or umbrellas?

On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 12:34:45 AM UTC-4, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
>
> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 8:07:58 PM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:
>>
>> And don't forget the Sauron MTB ;)
>
>
> You mean this one?
>
> 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that 
threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a 
recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit 
absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes 
operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no 
room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the 
bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you 
cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd 
picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see 
in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the 
brakes operation. 
Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the 
brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
threaded into it for fender mounting.



On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:46:07 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>
> Your photos did not load properly, please repost them. 
>
> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>
>> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the 
>> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>>
>> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
>>
>> This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads 
>> directly into it, no nuts involved.
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> 
>>
>> 
>>
>> This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. 
>> The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere 
>> with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see 
>> that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also 
>> note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit 
>> wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in 
>> the picture below.
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in the 
>> photo below that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes 
>> operation.
>>
>>
>>
>> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with 
>> the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
>> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>>
>>
>> The only solution I can see is to use something like the extra long bolt 
>> kit for converting the Racer brake to a non-recessed brake.  At 
>> $14 plus shipping from CA to CT I think it would be cheaper to go the 
>> local hardware store.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 9:40:35 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>>
>>> As others have said, it works.  These brakes are exactly like any other 
>>> brake as far as mounting to the frame or fork.
>>
>>

Re: [RBW] Re: I like MTBubbe, but this build's not quite there yet.

[Patrick Moore]

Paul: I have paternal family ties to Atlanta (there is a
immediately-post-civil-war house that is now a city landmark that belonged
to family-by-marriage, whose name I very annoyingly now forget -- beings
with "G") but never lived there for any length of time. My impression of it
was that it is a vast, sprawling, auto-bound metropolis that is very
unfriendly to cyclists (my sister, who commutes -- by car -- to the Emory
Library every day from what I think is the Doraville area, complains about
the very occasional cyclist on the narrow roads -- I do enlighten her). At
any rate, my father grew up in Decatur -- Avery Street; Agnes Scott; Emory;
a red brick, white columned Presbyterian church that, if I my aging memory
does not fail me, appeared in Driving Miss Daisy; Papa Leone's Pizza, St.
John's Melkite Catholic Church, and a bike shop with a big, tubular metal
bike-shaped-object above the frontal sign. Can you identify the area from
these very subjective and ancient images?

Are riding conditions as bad as I imagine them to be? And where on a map of
Atlanta are these fun roads and the westside beltline?

On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 10:25 PM, Paul Clifton 
wrote:

> ...
>


> Rich, there are some fun roads in SW Atlanta (some unfun ones too). And
> the westside beltline is worth the ride itself. I'll definitely show you
> around.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[Lee Legrand]

I do not know about you guys but the pictures do not even show up in my
email, except the nut and bolt.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:05 PM, A CT Cyclist  wrote:

>
> The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that
> threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a
> recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit
> absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes
> operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no
> room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the
> bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you
> cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd
> picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see
> in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the
> brakes operation.
> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the
> brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:46:07 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>>
>> Your photos did not load properly, please repost them.
>>
>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>>>
>>> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the
>>> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>>>
>>> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
>>>
>>> This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads
>>> directly into it, no nuts involved.
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in.
>>> The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere
>>> with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see
>>> that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also
>>> note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit
>>> wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in
>>> the picture below.
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>> Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in the
>>> photo below that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes
>>> operation.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with
>>> the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
>>> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>>>
>>>
>>> The only solution I can see is to use something like the extra long bolt
>>> kit for converting the Racer brake to a non-recessed brake.  At
>>> $14 plus shipping from CA to CT I think it would be cheaper to go the
>>> local hardware store.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 9:40:35 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:

 As others have said, it works.  These brakes are exactly like any other
 brake as far as mounting to the frame or fork.
>>>
>>>
> 

Re: [RBW] Re: I like MTBubbe, but this build's not quite there yet.

[Patrick Moore]

Bill -- it's a futile attempt; tease all you want, you can't understand it,
only experience it. "Fun" after all is entirely subjective; one man's fun
is another man's misery and a third man's bewilderment.

I love the discipline (trained; it's a minor art) of standing to climb; and
being conscious that I am climbing a grade in the same gear that I use to
cruise on flatlands adds to the pleasure: I'm doing something more with
what I've got rather than bringing in additional means. "Elegance" is
minimizing means to achieve an end; this is part of the aesthetic feeling.
But in the end, it is almost entirely subjective, and I -- who have a Ph.D.
in Aristotle!! -- wholeheartedly admit that.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 8:22 AM, Bill Lindsay  wrote:

> * I'm trying to tease out the objective meaning of the word "fun" when you
and Patrick Moore talk about 'honking'. *

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[Tim Butterfield]

Same here.  Of the original set of images from CT, only the last image of
the bolt kit is visible.  On the repost, none of the images are visible.
The others and latest appear to me as just a grey circle with a white dash
through it, like this:
[image: Inline image 1]

Tim

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 10:14 AM, Lee Legrand  wrote:

> I do not know about you guys but the pictures do not even show up in my
> email, except the nut and bolt.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:05 PM, A CT Cyclist  wrote:
>
>>
>> The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that
>> threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a
>> recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit
>> absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes
>> operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no
>> room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the
>> bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you
>> cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd
>> picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see
>> in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the
>> brakes operation.
>> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with
>> the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
>> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:46:07 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>>>
>>> Your photos did not load properly, please repost them.
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:

 I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the
 desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.

 Since a picture is worth a thousand words .

 This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads
 directly into it, no nuts involved.


 

 

 

 This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in.
 The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere
 with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see
 that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also
 note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit
 wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in
 the picture below.


 

 Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see in
 the photo below that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the brakes
 operation.



 Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with
 the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
 threaded into it for fender mounting.


 The only solution I can see is to use something like the extra long
 bolt kit for converting the Racer brake to a non-recessed brake.  At
 $14 plus shipping from CA to CT I think it would be cheaper to go the
 local hardware store.





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[RBW] FS Brand New Lugged S84 Seatpost

[Jay Connolly]

I have a never-opened Nitto S84 lugged seatpost, 27.2 x 300mm long. $140 USD, 
shipped. 

Jay

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

 



 

 
















The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that 
threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a 
recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit 
absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes 
operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no 
room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the 
bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you 
cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd 
picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see 
in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the 
brakes operation. 
Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the 
brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
threaded into it for fender mounting.












On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 1:14:16 PM UTC-4, Lee Legrand wrote:
>
> I do not know about you guys but the pictures do not even show up in my 
> email, except the nut and bolt.
>
> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:05 PM, A CT Cyclist  > wrote:
>
>>
>> The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that 
>> threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a 
>> recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit 
>> absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes 
>> operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no 
>> room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the 
>> bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you 
>> cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd 
>> picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see 
>> in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the 
>> brakes operation. 
>> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with 
>> the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be 
>> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:46:07 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>>>
>>> Your photos did not load properly, please repost them. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:

 I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the 
 desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.

 Since a picture is worth a thousand words .

 This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads 
 directly into it, no nuts involved.


 

 

 

 This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. 
 The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere 
 with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see 
 that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also 
 note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit 
 wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated 
 in 
 the picture below.


 

[RBW] Re: FS Brand New Lugged S84 Seatpost

[Ryan Fleming]

I wonder if these lugged seatposts have more setback than the S-83 ones do. 
Anybody know?  Reason I ask is I wonder if my mixte position would benefit 
from scootching the saddle back a little .

I'm using a Brooks Select on an S-83 and I'm finding that the Choco-Norms 
(which were chopped a bit by Riv) reach back more that I'd like and I find 
the handling a little twitchier than I'd like 

On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 1:18:31 PM UTC-5, Jay Connolly wrote:
>
> I have a never-opened Nitto S84 lugged seatpost, 27.2 x 300mm long. $140 
> USD, shipped. 
>
> Jay
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Brand New Lugged S84 Seatpost

[Shoji Takahashi]

Hi Ryan,
Yes, Nitto lugged seatpost has more setback than Nitto S83 which is ~ same 
as Nitto Crystal Fellow. According to Riv website, it's ~40mm compared to 
~20mm compared to ~18mm, respectively. 

Good luck!
shoji



On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 2:42:24 PM UTC-4, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>
> I wonder if these lugged seatposts have more setback than the S-83 ones 
> do. Anybody know?  Reason I ask is I wonder if my mixte position would 
> benefit from scootching the saddle back a little .
>
> I'm using a Brooks Select on an S-83 and I'm finding that the Choco-Norms 
> (which were chopped a bit by Riv) reach back more that I'd like and I find 
> the handling a little twitchier than I'd like 
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 1:18:31 PM UTC-5, Jay Connolly wrote:
>>
>> I have a never-opened Nitto S84 lugged seatpost, 27.2 x 300mm long. $140 
>> USD, shipped. 
>>
>> Jay
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Brand New Lugged S84 Seatpost

[Ryan Fleming]

Thanks...that is good to know

On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 1:52:22 PM UTC-5, Shoji Takahashi wrote:
>
> Hi Ryan,
> Yes, Nitto lugged seatpost has more setback than Nitto S83 which is ~ same 
> as Nitto Crystal Fellow. According to Riv website, it's ~40mm compared to 
> ~20mm compared to ~18mm, respectively. 
>
> Good luck!
> shoji
>
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 2:42:24 PM UTC-4, Ryan Fleming wrote:
>>
>> I wonder if these lugged seatposts have more setback than the S-83 ones 
>> do. Anybody know?  Reason I ask is I wonder if my mixte position would 
>> benefit from scootching the saddle back a little .
>>
>> I'm using a Brooks Select on an S-83 and I'm finding that the Choco-Norms 
>> (which were chopped a bit by Riv) reach back more that I'd like and I find 
>> the handling a little twitchier than I'd like 
>>
>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 1:18:31 PM UTC-5, Jay Connolly wrote:
>>>
>>> I have a never-opened Nitto S84 lugged seatpost, 27.2 x 300mm long. $140 
>>> USD, shipped. 
>>>
>>> Jay
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Fallen to Bidden: A September's Ride

[Deacon Patrick]

Thanks, Patrick. Aye. The poem is my fault.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:01:45 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Your poem? If so, you are a budding GM Hopkins. Nice post.
>
> On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 3:11 PM, Deacon Patrick  > wrote:
>
>> This is part of what riding does in me. What does it, in you?
>> http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/blind-to-bidden
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.CredoFamily.org
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>
>>
>> -- 
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>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com .
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>> .
>> Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
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> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, EUA
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[Tim Butterfield]

That post showed the images just fine.  Thanks.

Tim

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 11:29 AM, A CT Cyclist  wrote:

>
> 
> 
>
>
> 
> 
> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that
> threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a
> recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit
> absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes
> operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no
> room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the
> bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you
> cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd
> picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see
> in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the
> brakes operation.
> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with the
> brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 1:14:16 PM UTC-4, Lee Legrand wrote:
>>
>> I do not know about you guys but the pictures do not even show up in my
>> email, except the nut and bolt.
>>
>> On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:05 PM, A CT Cyclist  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> The first photo shows the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that
>>> threads directly into it, no nuts involved. The second photo shows a
>>> recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in. The head must sit
>>> absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere with the brakes
>>> operation. If you look at the first picture you can see that there is no
>>> room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also note that the
>>> bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit wider so you
>>> cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated in the 3rd
>>> picture. Even if you could thread the bolt all the way through you can see
>>> in the 4th photo that the nut sits proud and would interfere with the
>>> brakes operation.
>>> Finally, I demonstrate the way the fender nut is supposed to work with
>>> the brake bolt coming from the front of the fork, allowing a M6 bolt to be
>>> threaded into it for fender mounting.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 6:46:07 AM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:

 Your photos did not load properly, please repost them.

 On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:45:33 PM UTC-4, A CT Cyclist wrote:
>
> I have used Duramas in the past but the clearances are tight hence the
> desire to try the Sheldon Fender nut.
>
> Since a picture is worth a thousand words .
>
> This is the back of the brake with the recessed *bolt *that threads
> directly into it, no nuts involved.
>
>
> 
>
> 
>
> 
>
> This photo shows a recessed area that the head of a bolt could sit in.
> The head must sit absolutely flush because any protrusion would interfere
> with the brakes operation. If you look at the first picture you can see
> that there is no room for a nut that isn't absolutely flush. You will also
> note that the bolt is threaded about half way then the bolt becomes a bit
> wider so you cannot thread it any further into the brake as demonstrated 
> in
> the picture below.
>
>
>

[RBW] Re: FS Brand New Lugged S84 Seatpost

[Joe Bernard]

Ryan, you may benefit from an Albatross if cutting another inch off the Choco 
isn't something you want to mess with. I've done major chopping on the Bosco on 
my Clem L and still could use a little more room, which the Alba would give me. 

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[RBW] Re: I like MTBubbe, but this build's not quite there yet.

[Deacon Patrick]

I'm jumping in, God help me, so anyone on the fence about my sanity, you 
can decidedly get off now. Honking is what the guy in the wee pock marked 
near half-century Toyota pick-em-up unnecessarily did as he tried to 
motivate his squirrels to rev enough juice to pass me up hill. Fortunately 
his horn was as effective as his engine and it barely gave a whiff of a 
grandma toot as it inched its way past and I had my ear plugs in, else I'd 
be sprawled still in the drainage at the side of the road. I know "honking" 
from nothin save Bill's email. Interestingly, I have, however, been having 
a lot of fun playing with different gears and climbing and noticing effects 
on me and speed and traction and efficiency. Bullet points. Big honking 
bullet points.

- Rides under 20 miles are enhanced for me by shifting less, breathing 
more, and making fewer crank rotations. Why? Fun. Even more so the 
Quickbeam, but still the Hunqapillar.
- Rides longer 50 miles are enhanced for me by seeking efficiency through 
gearing, though I'm dim and stupid enough to enjoy the challenge of the 
Quickbeam for them.
- Rides through the smoke of the western states on fire are only possible 
by shifting down 2-3 gears and taking it real easy. Whistle while you work 
easy. Kinda fun in it's own way. I keep telling myself. Go too fast and too 
much smoke filters through me sinus billows and clogs them up and the 
bludgeoned brain does not like that. At all.
- Single track climbs with plush tires and low gearing are a hoot. Tires 
grip, feet spin, I glide up the hill.
- Single track climbs with plush, lugged tires and higher gearing are a 
hoot. Tires grip gravel and help me not quite lose momentum attempting to 
spill out in that gap between pedal strokes. Can't make it up stuff I make 
up with plush tires and low gearing. That's what LCG's for.
- Single track climbs with plush Compass tires and higher gearing are a 
hoot, but I spin out on looser/steeper climbs much sooner and have more 
LCG. More meaning a hundred yards over 20 miles. Infinitesimally 
insignificant.
- There is something amazing about climbing a mountain pass for 10+ miles 
on a single speed that requires the dance. Perhaps it's the lack of oxygen 
to the brain, but wow. It really is a pray of active contemplation of a 
flavor deliciously different from any other I've ever prayed. Yes, I'm 
faster, less efficient, more tired. Who cares? Me. Because ... wow. There 
is more to riding than efficiency, and riding single speed for several 
years now has helped me discover at least some of it.

Paul, if you get a chance to test the New Moustache bars (AKA Albastache, 
but while I appreciated the name for understanding the bar's origins, 
Moustache is the moniker of men, which I aspire to perhaps one day be. So 
New Moustache it is, for me) you may well love them. Brilliant climbers, 
with the upright a bit more aggressive than the Albatross and the curves a 
lot more aggressive, but not too aggressive. I climb single track in the 
curves, and paved and dirt in either. Brakes right where I want them -- in 
the curves. Brilliant for jouncy, technical descents and delightfully 
smooth for fast rail riding curvy road descents. Feels great for LCG too! A 
brilliant mountain bar for a bike that travels all roads and trails.

With abandon,
Patrick

On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 8:22:47 AM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>
>
> My Bubbe mountain climbs extremely well. I'm trying to tease out the 
> objective meaning of the word "fun" when you and Patrick Moore talk about 
> 'honking'.  You both say that 'honking' is fun and/or that you enjoy 
> 'honking'.  
>

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[RBW] Re: FS Brand New Lugged S84 Seatpost

[Ryan Fleming]

and part of my problem I guess is that I am so used to moustache bars 
(which was my original idea) and I still ride drop bars  . I was thinking 
of the seatpost setback as another way to angle my torso more toward what 
I'm accustomed to...and with more  towards the 45 or so degrees I'm used 
to, I'll have my butt back a little and more weight on the bars. Maybe 
totally unscientific but I thought I'd explore that to get rid of the 
twitchiness that I notice...as I say that's where living close to RBWHQ 
would be a benefit :) aside from the nice folks in California.

On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 3:00:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Ryan, you may benefit from an Albatross if cutting another inch off the 
> Choco isn't something you want to mess with. I've done major chopping on 
> the Bosco on my Clem L and still could use a little more room, which the 
> Alba would give me. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[Nash Taylor]

Where did you get these brakes?  That's not how mine work.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[Nash Taylor]

Looks like these have been taken apart and not put back together right.  And 
may be missing hardware.

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[RBW] Re: FS Brand New Lugged S84 Seatpost

[Joe Bernard]

I just did a ride with another half-inch cut off the Boscos and it was much 
better: more room and less twitchy. Aside from needing more reach, I think I 
needed to be a little more over the front end..the wheel had a disconnected 
'too far in front of me' feel I didn't like. 

I'm not trying to talk you out of buying the lugged seatpost, but if you want 
to get to a hardware store and pick up a pipe cutter you can try taking another 
inch off your Chocos. 

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Re: [RBW] Fallen to Bidden: A September's Ride

[Patrick Moore]

I saw a staring virgin stand
Where holy Dionysius died,
And tear the heart out from his side
And lay that heart upon her hand
And bear that beating heart away.
Then did all the muses sing
Of *magnus annus* at the spring,
As if God's death were but a play.

Another Troy must rise and set,
Another lineage feed the crow;
Another Argos' painted prow
Drive to a flashier bauble yet.
The Roman empire stood appalled;
It dropped the reigns of peace and war,
When that fierce virgin with her star
Out of the fabulous darkness called.

In pity for men's darkening thoughts
He walked that room and issued thence
In Galilean turbulence.
The Babylonian starlight brought
A fabulous, formless darkness in;
Odour of blood when Christ was slain
Made all Platonic tolerance vain,
And vain all Doric discipline.

Everything that man esteems
Endures a moment or a day;
Love's pleasure drives his love away;
The painter's brush consumes his dreams;
The herald's cry, the soldier's tread
Exhaust his glory and his might;
Whatever flames upon the night
Man's own resinous heart has fed.

Patrick "not by me, by WBY, but long stuck in my memory" Moore

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 1:05 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> Thanks, Patrick. Aye. The poem is my fault.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 10:01:45 PM UTC-6, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> Your poem? If so, you are a budding GM Hopkins. Nice post.
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 7, 2017 at 3:11 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:
>>
>>> This is part of what riding does in me. What does it, in you?
>>> http://thegrid.ai/withabandon/blind-to-bidden
>>>
>>> With abandon,
>>> Patrick
>>>
>>> www.CredoFamily.org
>>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
>> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
>> Other professional writing services.
>> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
>> www.linkedin.com/in/patrickmooreresumespec/
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, New Mexico, EUA
>> 
>> 
>> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>>
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Alburquerque, New Mexico, EUA
**
**
*Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*

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Re: [RBW] Re: I like MTBubbe, but this build's not quite there yet.

[Bill Lindsay]

Patrick Moore said "it's a futile attempt ". 

I'm not sure I follow what "it" is.  The only thing I was attempting was to 
point out that fit and body position has a lot to do with how well your body 
can put power into the bike. Specifically I assert that IF Patrick Moore gave 
me his "most fun" fixie and IF I swapped out his cockpit for a dirt drop stem 
and Albatross bars, that THEN Patrick Moore would deem that bike "less fun" to 
honk up a hill. That was my only attempt.  Was that a futile attempt?  Did I 
fail to make that point?  

I was sincere when I said Patrick Moore is eloquent and prolific.
I was sincere when I said that it is cool that riders like riding fixed. 

I love self-discipline, like making yourself ride and record having ridden 200 
miles on ten bikes.  I'm into it. 

Bill Lindsay 
El Cerrito, Ca. 

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[RBW] FS: Noodles 44cm

[Joe Bernard]

Mine are sold. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom bike

[Toshi Takeuchi]

On Sun, Sep 3, 2017 at 6:22 PM Dave Johnston  wrote:

> Any more build pictures?
>
> Eagerly awaiting the full build!,
> Dave
>

Picking up the built up custom tomorrow. Gonna take it for a spin
home--will try to post some pics soon.

Toshi


> On Friday, August 18, 2017 at 1:33:52 PM UTC-4, ttoshi wrote:
>>
>> Hi all, I've gotten several questions about the custom up on Instagram,
>> so I thought I would tell you about the bike.
>>
>> I plan to use the 650b bike for randonneuring.  It has the dropout that
>> allows a wireless connection to a Schmidt dynamo.  I'm planning to ride
>> with 42mm Hetre/BSP tires.  The 42s likely wouldn't clear the Paul Racers
>> without deflation, so I opted to get the Compass Centerpulls.  There is
>> internal wire routing as well as some thoughtful braze-ons for wiring of
>> the taillight in the rear.
>>
>> While Grant was designing the bike, he had me ride the Blue Rosco Road.
>> The long chainstays gave the Rosco Road a fantastic stability in the ride,
>> but the bike felt really nimble when I shifted my weight.  I know that I am
>> going to love the ride with the long chainstays.
>>
>> Can't wait till it's built up!
>>
>> Toshi
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: I like MTBubbe, but this build's not quite there yet.

[Patrick Moore]

Well described. The Deacon Patrick does more of it than I do.

On Fri, Sep 8, 2017 at 2:38 PM, Deacon Patrick  wrote:

> I'm jumping in, God help me, so anyone on the fence about my sanity, you
> can decidedly get off now. Honking is what the guy in the wee pock marked
> near half-century Toyota pick-em-up unnecessarily did as he tried to
> motivate his squirrels to rev enough juice to pass me up hill. Fortunately
> his horn was as effective as his engine and it barely gave a whiff of a
> grandma toot as it inched its way past and I had my ear plugs in, else I'd
> be sprawled still in the drainage at the side of the road. I know "honking"
> from nothin save Bill's email. Interestingly, I have, however, been having
> a lot of fun playing with different gears and climbing and noticing effects
> on me and speed and traction and efficiency. Bullet points. Big honking
> bullet points.
>
> - Rides under 20 miles are enhanced for me by shifting less, breathing
> more, and making fewer crank rotations. Why? Fun. Even more so the
> Quickbeam, but still the Hunqapillar.
> - Rides longer 50 miles are enhanced for me by seeking efficiency through
> gearing, though I'm dim and stupid enough to enjoy the challenge of the
> Quickbeam for them.
> - Rides through the smoke of the western states on fire are only possible
> by shifting down 2-3 gears and taking it real easy. Whistle while you work
> easy. Kinda fun in it's own way. I keep telling myself. Go too fast and too
> much smoke filters through me sinus billows and clogs them up and the
> bludgeoned brain does not like that. At all.
> - Single track climbs with plush tires and low gearing are a hoot. Tires
> grip, feet spin, I glide up the hill.
> - Single track climbs with plush, lugged tires and higher gearing are a
> hoot. Tires grip gravel and help me not quite lose momentum attempting to
> spill out in that gap between pedal strokes. Can't make it up stuff I make
> up with plush tires and low gearing. That's what LCG's for.
> - Single track climbs with plush Compass tires and higher gearing are a
> hoot, but I spin out on looser/steeper climbs much sooner and have more
> LCG. More meaning a hundred yards over 20 miles. Infinitesimally
> insignificant.
> - There is something amazing about climbing a mountain pass for 10+ miles
> on a single speed that requires the dance. Perhaps it's the lack of oxygen
> to the brain, but wow. It really is a pray of active contemplation of a
> flavor deliciously different from any other I've ever prayed. Yes, I'm
> faster, less efficient, more tired. Who cares? Me. Because ... wow. There
> is more to riding than efficiency, and riding single speed for several
> years now has helped me discover at least some of it.
>
> Paul, if you get a chance to test the New Moustache bars (AKA Albastache,
> but while I appreciated the name for understanding the bar's origins,
> Moustache is the moniker of men, which I aspire to perhaps one day be. So
> New Moustache it is, for me) you may well love them. Brilliant climbers,
> with the upright a bit more aggressive than the Albatross and the curves a
> lot more aggressive, but not too aggressive. I climb single track in the
> curves, and paved and dirt in either. Brakes right where I want them -- in
> the curves. Brilliant for jouncy, technical descents and delightfully
> smooth for fast rail riding curvy road descents. Feels great for LCG too! A
> brilliant mountain bar for a bike that travels all roads and trails.
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 8:22:47 AM UTC-6, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> My Bubbe mountain climbs extremely well. I'm trying to tease out the
>> objective meaning of the word "fun" when you and Patrick Moore talk about
>> 'honking'.  You both say that 'honking' is fun and/or that you enjoy
>> 'honking'.
>>
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-- 
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Patrick Moore
Alburquerque, New Mexico, EUA
**
**
*Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[EasyRider]

OK, now I see your predicament. I agree with Nash. The bolt in your 
pictures doesn't look the one in the product photos on the Paul Components 
website. If you bought the brakes new and that bolt came in the package, 
well I'm stumped. But if you bought the brake used or with missing pieces, 
I would email Paul and ask what length button head hex bolt to get from the 
hardware store. I'd take the brake and the problem solver nut to ensure I 
got the right threading and that the head of the bolt didn't protrude and 
interfere with the movement of the brake arms. Or, just ask Paul to buy the 
part (I don't see the replacements for the recessed version on the website, 
just the ones for converting recessed to non-recessed.) Good luck. 


On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 7:03:30 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>
> Looks like these have been taken apart and not put back together right. 
>  And may be missing hardware.

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[RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa

[David Person]

Can I ask what bag that is on the front rack?

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[RBW] Re: Joe Appaloosa

[Matt Beecher]

David,

That looks to be a sackville small trunksack.   I keep on on one of my 
bikes and really like it for a lighter bike.  

Cheers,
Matt

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Re: [RBW] Re: Paul Racer front brakes with fenders

[A CT Cyclist]

Yes I bought them new and no they aren't missing parts. I agree the bolt 
does look different from the one in the Pauls product photo. I didn't 
purchase the brakes from Pauls directly it makes more since shipping wise 
to purchase a bit closer to home. 

Just to clarify for those of you that have a Pauls front brake with a 
recessed bolt. The bolt threads through the front of the brake and there is 
a recessed nut that seats into the back of the bikes fork?

On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 9:18:01 PM UTC-4, EasyRider wrote:
>
> OK, now I see your predicament. I agree with Nash. The bolt in your 
> pictures doesn't look the one in the product photos on the Paul Components 
> website. If you bought the brakes new and that bolt came in the package, 
> well I'm stumped. But if you bought the brake used or with missing pieces, 
> I would email Paul and ask what length button head hex bolt to get from the 
> hardware store. I'd take the brake and the problem solver nut to ensure I 
> got the right threading and that the head of the bolt didn't protrude and 
> interfere with the movement of the brake arms. Or, just ask Paul to buy the 
> part (I don't see the replacements for the recessed version on the website, 
> just the ones for converting recessed to non-recessed.) Good luck. 
>
>
> On Friday, September 8, 2017 at 7:03:30 PM UTC-4, Nash Taylor wrote:
>>
>> Looks like these have been taken apart and not put back together right. 
>>  And may be missing hardware.
>
>

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[RBW] WTB: Anyone change their mind about a MTBubbe?

[Jeremy Tavan]

I passed on the first production run of the MTBubbe, and since then have 
changed my mind and would like to build one - anyone get one and change 
their mind about building it up? I could try to get on the waiting list for 
if they decide to do another run, but who knows how long that will be.

/Jeremy

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