Ok, somebody’s gotta say it… does this mean we’re back to foredeck cows for
the winter blues…
>to putting some bushings into the pintles and gudgeons to compensate for years
>of wear and herd use..<
randy
Tamanawas
29-II
Hood River, OR
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2012 3:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder Re-build/replacement now transom hung
I was about to say exactly what Rick said, based on 18 years of experience with
my 25 mk1. The rudder for the MK2 might be different, but I have my doubts.
I read the Sailing Anarchy thread, and I have to comment that the only
contributor who knew anything about the C&C 25 was the Owner – and he didn’t
seem to know much. He comments about the weaknesses of the boat, for example
commenting on the need to replace the mast step. I actually bent the jib crane
at my old club in Philly when unstepping the mast – seems one of my helpers had
neglected to pull the pin in the step and the jib crane was trying to pick the
whole boat up by the sling around the mast.
My 25 is built like a tank. Which is why it is so much heavier than a J/24. I
once had a port/starboard collision when I was trying to duck a J/30. The
damage to the J was more than twice what I paid for Belle (Heck, the teak toe
rail was half the price I paid for the C&C 25.), and all the damage I had was
some blue paint that I took off the gelcoat with a 3M scrubby pad.
After 37 years, I have a little wiggle in my rudder. One of these days I need
to get around to putting some bushings into the pintles and gudgeons to
compensate for years of wear and herd use.. There is definitely no flex in the
rudder itself.
Rick Brass
Imzadi -1976 C&C 38 mk1
la Belle Aurore -1975 C&C 25 mk1
Washington, NC
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