Re: Stus-List CS 30 PHRF rating - Was: New boat - CS30

[McNamee, Michael]

Sounds like the normal aging process to me... :-).
Mike

-Original Message-
From: Wally Bryant [mailto:w...@wbryant.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CS 30 PHRF rating - Was: New boat - CS30

Joe wrote:
> Every time this comes up we say we handicap BOATS, not PEOPLE. Now 
> back in the day 
I think Kurt Vonnegut wrote a story about handicapping people in order to make 
everyone equal.  Perhaps it would work for sailboat racing.  
Say, for every 2 years someone has been racing he or she would have to put a 
jumping jack in each shoe.  And after five years of racing the crew would need 
to wear ear plugs.  After ten years of experience everyone on board would need 
to swap glasses.

Wal



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Re: Stus-List lyn &larry pardy electrical

[McNamee, Michael]

Excellent Wally  I always wondered why anyone would cruise in such a 
minimalist fashion for so many years!!
Thanks for the chuckle :-).
Mike


-Original Message-
From: Wally Bryant [mailto:w...@wbryant.com] 
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2013 12:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List lyn &larry pardy electrical

U.  Actually, Larry and Lin Pardy don't really exist.

A long while back, some publishers realized that they could make a bunch of 
money selling sailing books, and hired two actors to pose for some pictures and 
go to boat shows and give lectures.  The original books were ghost written by 
two college students in Albuquerque NM, although there's an now entire team 
working to ensure stylistic consistency.

The actor who plays Larry got his start as one of the Highway Patrol guys in 
'Vanishing Point' (1971) The actress who plays Lin can be seen as a background 
nurse in 'M*A*S*H' 
(1970)
Both were non-speaking roles.

-

Now, I'm all for the simple life.  In fact, you can call me simple minded, I 
don't care.  But I can honestly say that I'm too old to sh__ in a bucket.  It's 
not like I can't do it, and in fact I have a little bucket that fits perfectly 
in the Raritan bowl with the seat down.  
Really.  I only mention that as an example because I just this morning did my 
tri-monthly macerator pump disassembly/cleaning/reassembly.  This time I left 
the stupid blade assembly out.  That's what always gets jammed up.  As long as 
*nothing* goes down the head that doesn't pass through an animal body, it 
should be fine.  Heck, I've never rebuilt the
32 year old Jabsco impeller pump in the shower sump, and you cannot believe the 
crud that that thing has pumped out of the boat without jamming.  (I do have a 
spare, which is rigged with a cigarette lighter plug so I can use it as another 
blige pump if I ever get holed.)

I have met quite a few folks who are cruising full time, living the minimalist 
life, but they always seem to be asking for a hand out. 'Can I have your spare 
bilge pump?  Do you have a spare impeller? Do you have spare AA batteries?  Can 
I borrow your spare alternator?  I promise I'll give it back.'  Reality is much 
different than the dream.  Not that I'm complaining.  I like reality, but like 
to dream.

Things change fast.  I can honestly say that no one has offered me a bucket of 
lobsters for an old Nike T shirt.  I don't care what you read in a book or in 
Lat38.

Oh heck,  I need to go kill a chicken, toss the guts overboard, pluck it, singe 
it in a bucket of boiling sea water to remove the little short hairs, and toss 
it on the BBQ.  (Hey, you can only take minimalism so far.)

Wal




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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft - C&C 27

[McNamee, Michael]

Peter,
Regarding the Indigo prop – in addition to my C&C, I have another boat, a 
Ranger 29 (6700 pounds empty), with an A4 and the Indigo prop.  I can’t compare 
to the original prop, but I must say the current A4/Indigo combination easily 
pushes the boat along at hull speed through some serious tidal currents.   I 
highly recommend it.   Its performance in reverse is adequate- limited more by 
the A4 than the prop itself.
Mike
C&C30- II Echappe’
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Re: Stus-List Introduction and gastric reflux

[McNamee, Michael]

< but one does worry about the errant flying fish. >

HaHa... good one, Martin :).

Mike
1989 C&C 30 mk II  Echappe'
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Stus-List C&C 30 mk II skylight

[McNamee, Michael]

I've read many of the postings regarding rebedding windows and ports.  My 
question is specifically about the skylight just forward of the companionway in 
the C&C 30 mk II.  Does anyone know what this is made of?  I'd like to remove 
and reattach it and I'm wondering if Sika 295 with appropriate primer is the 
way to go here.  Also, I'd appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks,
Mike

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 mk II skylight

[McNamee, Michael]

Yes, Ken is correct, the skylight is directly bonded to the flat surface of the 
deck.  I have removed it as well as all of the original adhesive used to attach 
it.   I will be rebonding it next week with Sika 295iUV.   I'm hoping that will 
take care of a leak that has found its way in between the deck and the overhead 
liner.

Mike

From: Ken Heaton [mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 6:07 AM
To: Dennis C.; cnc-list
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 mk II skylight

Yes, but in this case I think the skylight lens in question is bonded to the 
flat surface of the deck.  If it is like the skylight on a 37+ there is no 
depression the lens fits into, no frame, the lexan panel just lays there so the 
choice of adhesive / sealant is very important.  As the boat flexes under sail 
there are significant stresses on this panel so the band has to be strong.

Ken H.

On 18 August 2013 23:25, Dennis C. 
mailto:capt...@yahoo.com>> wrote:
FWIW, I've successfully bedded ports in J30's and hatch lenses in both Bomar 
and Lewmar hatches with black LifeSeal by Life Products.  It's a 
silicone/polyurethane blend.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
mandeville, LA

From: Sébastien Lemieux mailto:s.lemi...@umontreal.ca>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Sunday, August 18, 2013 8:36 PM
Subject: Stus-List C&C 30 mk II skylight

I replaced mine with a Lexan panel too last year.  I used black 4200 as the 
adhesive, which proved to be a bad decision on my part as it seems that 4200 
adheres poorly to lexan (let me know how it turns out for you Pete!).  This 
spring, I noticed the panel was half loose and that water was getting in at an 
alarming rate.  I removed the panel and cleaned up the 4200.

I have been recommended a silicone-based sealant specially made to bed lexan 
windows (sika 295 uv), but somehow managed to skip the parts of the 
instructions where the use of a primer was mentioned.  Last month, I noticed 
the panel is loose again with water finding its way in again.

The only upside I see to my hard-n-slow learning approach is that I'm giving 
myself so many opportunities to work on my goo-handling abilities!

Sébastien Lemieux
Merlot X - C&C 30 mk2 1987
Lake Champlain


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Re: Stus-List Sky-liners

[McNamee, Michael]

Charlie,
Assuming your setup is similar to mine, you do have to remove the spray hood 
which covers the hatch rails.  I've had mine off three different times trying 
to fix the leak I mentioned without removing the skylight itself.  No dice.  So 
I'm reinstalling the skylight "correctly" after which I will reinstall the 
spray hood.   As I do that I will apply a polysulfide caulk to the screws to 
prevent any water from getting into the screw holes.   That's my plan, anyway.

I'll report back on my success- keeping my fingers crossed
Mike

From: cenel...@aol.com [mailto:cenel...@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, August 23, 2013 9:31 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sky-liners

My 1995 36 XL/kcb has a 'sky liner' also--and it has a few leaks or at least 
the water gets around it into the companionway/cabin.

AFAIK, it looks like I need to remove the entire hatch cover 'cover'/'surround' 
to be able to remove and re bed/clean-up/replace this 'smoked' Lexan/acrylic 
sheet.

Has any lister found an easier way to do this?--the hatch cover 'cover' is a 
massive, one-piece fiberglass piece that would be a pain to remove and replace 
after
the sky liner was re bedded, etc.

Or do I have to suck it up and remove the entire frame?

BTW, I have already replaced the sliding piece of the hatch cover after it 
cracked years ago.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 3GMF Starting Problem

[McNamee, Michael]

This is a well known problem with Yanmar engines.  I had exact same symptom on 
a previous boat (Yanmar 2gm20f).  Apparently, the wiring from the starter 
switch to the starter solenoid is NOT QUITE adequate to always energize the 
solenoid.  It can be fixed by adding an additional relay.  See the following 
link for details.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f54/yanmar-starter-is-intermittent-9085.html

Cheers,
Mike
C&C30 mk II Echappe

From: Indigo [mailto:ind...@thethomsons.us]
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2013 8:52 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 3GMF Starting Problem

Recently Indigo has developed what is currently annoying problem, but could 
become more serious.  After turning the key (and getting the low oil-pressure 
buzzer), when I press the starter button, absolutely nothing happens.  I press 
it again, and it usually starts right up. Occasionally more pushes on the 
button are required.  Is the remedy going to be simply replacing the 
push-button ignition switch or am I likely facing something more to fix?

Indigo - 36MKIII
Southport CT




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Re: Stus-List Sealant or adhesive?

[McNamee, Michael]

I just removed and resealed the skylight in my C&C30 MK II this past summer 
with Sikaflex, and yes you must use their primer.  But make sure you wear 
rubber gloves and protect everything from spillage or else you will have black 
stuff EVERYWHERE that doesn't come off.  My hands had traces of that stuff for 
weeks.  It's like India Ink.
Mike

-Original Message-
From: Fair, Mike [mailto:mike.f...@mckesson.com] 
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 6:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealant or adhesive?

You MUST use the Primer if you use UV295

-Mike

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of 
blhick...@yahoo.com
Sent: Monday, April 14, 2014 8:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Sealant or adhesive?

Hi Listers,
  Ok so I'm replacing the cast acrylic lens in the forward hatch. Is Sikaflex 
295UV the way to go to rebed the lens?  I got new hatch and handle gaskets from 
Atkins and Hoyle and sprang for "their" caulk stuff for the big hatch gasket. I 
see from the Jamestown Dist. website that if using the Sikaflex 295, Sikaflex 
recommends using their primer at 4x the cost of a tube of Sikaflex. Can I use 
alcohol or acetone or anything else that doesn't cost $83 for one small job to 
wipe the hatch clean?  Are "spacers" required when I'm placing the new acrylic 
lens back in?  Thanks for any help. (I looked for help on another site but not 
too helpful, suggested silicone or Dow Corning 795. ). Thx,

Barbara Hickson Fellers
"Flight Risk"
'76 C&C 33
Charleston, SC


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Re: Stus-List Economic justification for owning a boat

[McNamee, Michael]

I think the way to look at it is, “yes, it’s damned expensive, but one has got 
to have  fun in life!!”  Besides, as someone already pointed out, it’s 
cheaper than therapy!

Mike
C&C 30 mk II Echappe’

From: Gary Nylander [mailto:gnylan...@atlanticbb.net]
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2013 7:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Economic justification for owning a boat

We (my ex-admiral and boat partner (and her new hubby)) spent about 4 grand on 
Penniless last year - haul out and in, bottom paint, slip fees, shrinkwrap, dry 
storage, diver, etc. - no capital improvements of any significance - I do 90% 
of the labor (I'm handy and retired, he's a doctor), and we used her about 
50-60 days - Wednesday night racing, Sunday racing, Frostbites, cruising, 
daysails...so that's about 80 bucks per usage. There are not a lot of things 
you and your friends can do for 80 bucks, good deal???

Gary
Penniless 30-1
St. Michaels, MD

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Re: Stus-List Springerizing the boat

[McNamee, Michael]

I think it depends upon how the tanks are drained.  Unless you actually 
disconnect some hoses, it is difficult to know that you are draining them 
completely.   An alternate procedure is to run the freshwater pump until the 
faucets pretty much stop spitting, then put a couple of gallons of antifreeze 
into the tanks and pump that through to take care of any residual water that 
may remain.  If you close your thru hulls as the last of the antifreeze is 
draining from the sinks, they’re protected as well.

I save the vodka for getting me through the winter AFTER I winterize ☺.
Mike
C&C 30 mk II
Lake Pend Orielle, Idaho

I'm curious why a lot if antifreeze is needed. If the water tanks, heater and 
plumbing are drained as dry as gravity will make them before inserting the 
antifreeze, I find it only takes 1/2 a gallon or so to winterized the fresh 
water system on the Landfall.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax


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Stus-List fishing radar cables through C&C 30-II headliner

[McNamee, Michael via CnC-List]

Has anyone on the list had any experience fishing wires through the headliner 
of a C&C 30 mark II?  I just added a radome on my mast with the cables exiting 
the mast along with the masthead light, etc, wiring and I'd like to get them 
back to the panel without going through the bilge.
Thanks in advance!
Mike
C&C 30-II "Limerick"

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Stus-List Anchor locker latch for C&C 30-2

[McNamee, Michael via CnC-List]

Does anyone know where to get a replacement anchor locker latch for a C&C 30-2? 
 My wife and I were pulling into an anchorage this past weekend and when I went 
forward to get the anchor ready I found that the tab on the latch was 
missing... don't know where it could have gone, but the result was that I 
couldn't open the locker lid.  So we ended up tying to a nearby state park 
dock.  Later I found that I could pry the lid open with a screwdriver- 
fortunately it wasn't in the latched position or I couldn't have done even that.

Anyway, I was thinking of just replacing the whole thing with a simple loop to 
pull it open, but I thought I'd ask if anyone else has replaced this latch.

Thanks in advance.
Mike
C&C 30-2  Limerick
Anacortes, Wa.
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Re: Stus-List Anchor locker latch for C&C 30-2

[McNamee, Michael via CnC-List]

Thanks Kevin.  Your reply pointed me in the right direction.  I think it’s the 
Perko latch at this link:

http://www.perko.com/catalog/locks_and_latches/113/flush_lock_&_latch_with_2_keys/

Don’t know if I need the locking capability, but this one fits so I’ll probably 
go with it.
Thanks again,
Mike

Mike it's a perko latch. I have an extra that I am about to install but I will 
get model number for you. My old one I am taking off is serviceable just stiff. 
I haven't tried lubing it yet we've had another on osprey so thought I would 
use it. I am at the v marina tonight. Will try to remember to look for it.

Kevin
30-2
Portland, OR
C&C 30-2  Limerick
Anacortes, Wa.
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Re: Stus-List boom

[McNamee, Michael via CnC-List]

I’ve had the same problem, which prevented sleep in a rolly anchorage.   A 
simple solution was to sheet the boom fairly tight, then use a short length of 
3/8 inch line to pull the end of the boom over toward one side, in my case, to 
a jam cleat near the main jib sheet winch.  This is part of my normal procedure 
before turning in for the night.

Mike
C&C 30-2 “Limerick”
Anacortes

From: Dennis C. [mailto:capt...@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 22, 2015 9:02 AM
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List boom

Check the fasteners on the gooseneck/boom joint.
Dennis C.

On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 10:24 AM, Harald Braun via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi, I have a 1985 35 MK 3 C&C and my boom was making this awful squecking, 
grinding noise, once the main was  down. I lubed it and still no luck. Really 
annoying in an anchorage. Anybody has any suggestions?

Harald
Kitchener, On



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Re: Stus-List Indigo 3 blade propeller

[McNamee, Michael via CnC-List]

I recently owned a Ranger 29 that had the Indigo prop powered by an A-4.  It 
was great, drove the boat well, never had any problems.
Mike

From: tim [mailto:hobie1...@comcast.net]
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2015 7:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Indigo 3 blade propeller

Hi,

   I am considering an Indigo 3 blade propeller to be used in conjunction with 
my Atomic 4 (present 2 blade).  Just curious if anyone has used the propeller, 
and if they have seen performance improvements.

Thank you for your time.

Tim
SV Sly Fox.
C&C 29' MK1 (1976)
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Re: Stus-List PNW Rondezveous

[McNamee, Michael via CnC-List]

We had thought about going, although it’s a pretty long haul from Anacortes for 
a weekend.  If I can get some time away from work, we’ll be there.
Mike

S/V Limerick
1989 CC 30-2
Anacortes WA

From: Tom Buscaglia [mailto:t...@sv-alera.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 7:43 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List PNW Rondezveous

We're going.  Anyone else is planning on being there?

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
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