Re: Stus-List Keel Fairing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Oxidation is the enemy here.  Once you sand down to bare (bright) metal,
oxidation begins immediately.

Another trick similar to Wally's suggestion is to sand to bright metal then
immediately apply epoxy or resin with a ScotchBrite pad saturated with
resin or epoxy.  The idea is to rub the oxidation off with the rough pad
while SIMULTANEOUSLY applying the resin so the metal is not exposed to the
air.  Once you have protected the metal from contact with air, you're good
to go with your fairing.

For minor fairing you can use AwlFair or 3M Premium Filler.  For deeper
spots start with 3M High Strength Filler then smooth with the lighter
fillers.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, May 1, 2014 at 7:05 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Zinc chromate applied to sanded metal helps the next layer to adhere.
>  --
> From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
> Sent: ‎2014-‎05-‎01 2:39 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Keel Fairing
>
> I'm assuming it's a lead keel.
>
> I did spot repairs on my lead keel in 2003, and it was a good idea but
> didn't take.
>  Perhaps I messed
> up.
>
> A few years later I stripped the whole thing down and reworked it from
> bare lead, and that has been perfect ever since.
> 
>
> Now, I can honestly say that the best way to deal with exposed lead is
> to sand it down clean and immediately sand resin into the lead.  Then
> prime and paint.
>
> Wal
>
> you wrote:
> > While scraping and sanding the hull of our 30mk1 I knocked out a couple
> of
> > (fairly?) large chunks of fairing on the keel. I can see metal.
> >
> > Can anyone advise me on the proper repair procedure please? Should I
> grind
> > it all off or patch? What should I use?
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Keel Fairing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Derek,

West 105 or the System Three equivalent should work fine.

To be picky, epoxy is epoxy and polyester or vinylester resin is resin.
However, for most applications epoxy works fine.  Resin is cheaper and is
typically used if you're going to apply gelcoat on top.  Most believe epoxy
provides stronger bonding to the underlying strata.  In your case, you want
the bonding so epoxy will work.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1  #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, May 1, 2014 at 7:56 PM, Tortuga via CnC-List
wrote:

> Wal
>
> Yes, lead it is.
>
> You wrote "Now, I can honestly say that the best way to deal with exposed
> lead is to sand it down clean and immediately sand resin into the lead.
>  Then prime and paint."
>
> By resin, do you mean epoxy resin as in West 105? I'm pretty ignorant.
>
> Thanks
> Derek
> Tortuga, 30/1
> Ballantyne's Cove, NS
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List List

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

We are the "listers".  You will be assimilated.  Resistance is futile.

7 of 9
Bejorian Vessel 34J51


On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 12:12 PM, Persuasion via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don't get that option
>
>
> On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 1:04 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>  It always amazes me when someone spams a list asking to me removed
>> instead of just using the unsubscribe link that is at the top of every
>> email they receive from the list...
>>
>> At 09:00 AM 5/2/2014, you wrote:
>>
>> Message: 7
>> Date: Fri, 2 May 2014 08:57:33 -0400
>> From: "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List" 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List list
>> Message-ID:
>>  <
>> 1073606396712942aee54d9a960e45a71e25838...@hq-mb-07.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>>
>> Perhaps every third email will do?
>>
>> Joe Della Barba
>> Coquina
>> From: CnC-List [ 
>> mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
>> On Behalf Of william drose via CnC-List
>> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 8:28 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List list
>>
>> Hi, I do not want to receive ALL these e-mails, please stop sending them.
>> Thanks.
>> -- next part --
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> 
>>
>>  Tom Buscaglia
>> SV Alera
>> C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon Island WA
>> (206) 463-9200
>> www.sv-alera.com
>>
>> ___
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>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Mike
> S/V Persuasion
> C&C 37 K/CB
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Keel Fairing

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Derek,

Cracks on the hull/keel joint are a frequent topic on the list.  There are
lots of ways to deal with it.  One thing we all agree on is the need to
properly torque the keel bolts.  The specs can be found in the "Technical
Info" section of the C&C photo album.

The next thing you need to ask is "why?"  Too much backstay?  A grounding?
Some other cause?  On some models, there is a good bit of distance between
the aft part of the keel and the aftmost keel bolt.  It may be that there
isn't enough support there and that area is just prone to cracking.

Touche' had minor cracks in the fairing at the aft end of the hull/keel
joint for the first 2-3 haul outs after I bought it.  There is a distance
between the aftmost bolt and the area that kept cracking.  I finally
covered the joint all the way around with a few layers of biaxial glass
tape.  Cracks haven't reappeared.  Other listers have done the same.

Once you've torqued the bolts, you can do as your post says or glass it
with tape.

I dug out the forward part of the joint when I first bought Touche'.
Packed the dug out area with epoxy saturated chopped carbon fiber.  Couple
of haul outs later it got the biaxial tape treatment.  Haven't seen any
cracking in 10 years.  The bolts get re-torqued every 5 years or so.  See
the forward repair here:

http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/smile/

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 1:22 PM, Tortuga via CnC-List
wrote:

> "For minor fairing you can use AwlFair or 3M Premium Filler.  For deeper spots
> start with 3M High Strength Filler then smooth with the lighter fillers."
>
> I also have some cracking on the trailing edges near the keel/hull joint.
> I'm thinking I should dig it out and re-fair it. I was reading a blog in
> which the author recommended using 3M 5200 for its flexibility. Below is a
> quote from the blog. I'm soliciting opinions here.
>
> Thanks Dennis and Wally
>
> Derek
> Tortuga, 30/1
> Ballantyne's Cove, NS
>
> "*The first thing to do if you're going to fix this clean up both the
> joint and the surrounding area, about an inch to each side of the joint.
> Clean it down to the fiberglass or gelcoat. Make sure it's all dry and
> clean.*
>
>
> *Next, run a piece of blue painter's masking tape about 1/2" to 1"
> parallel to and on either side of the joint. Get a pack of inexpensive
> sqeegees. Evercoat makes a three pack. They're flexible and cheap. Good
> thing, because they're one use. *
>
> *Finally, with a caulking tube of 3M 5200 or 4200 in the color of your
> choice (I use black), put a bead all along one side of the joint in the
> keel. Don't be afraid to use more than you need. With the squeegee spread
> the 5200 evenly and smoothly from front to back. The bead should be spread
> evenly between the tape filling to the thickness of the tape."*
>
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>
>
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Stus-List Making a winch backing plate

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Just thought I'd share my current project.

I'm repairing a boat with a ripped off cabin top winch.  The winch was
mounted on a pad molded in the deck.  Molded in the deck under the pad was
an aluminum disc.  The winch fasteners were tapped into the disc.  The
cabin liner was immediately under that.  The winch, pad and disc all
separated from the deck.

Since there was no access to the underside of the pad, there was no easy
way to get beneath the pad and add structure for strength.  The plan was to
clean up the pad, re-attach it with epoxy.  Simply epoxying the pad down
would have very little strength so the winch needs to be through bolted.
(Of course a minor gelcoat repair is required to cosmetically finish the
pad.)

Since the backing plate will be visible from the cabin, it needs to be nice.

Anyway, I ordered a couple of pieces of 1/4 inch aluminum plate on eBay.
(You can find cut scraps fairly cheap there.)  I used my Bosch jigsaw with
a metal cutting blade to size the pad and rough trim the corners.  Then I
shaped the corners with a belt sander with 80 grit and then finished all
the edges with the belt sander and 120 grit.  The edges were hand sanded
with 320 grit.  The exposed flat surface was hand sanded with 1000 grit
wet/dry then polished with a buffing wheel and polishing compound.  Looks
nice!!

Whole process took about 30-40 minutes.  The winch will be re-installed
with washers, lock washers and cap nuts for a nice finished look.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Furler Choice

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Harken.

Dennis C.


On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 9:17 AM, Allen White via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With much talk recently of the merits of a furling headsail, I have decided
> to bite the bullet, install a new furler and have a new sail made for my
> 26.
> Someone mentioned that they were quite pleased with their Superfurl. I seem
> to get a different answer from each person I ask this question:
> What is the best choice for a furler on a small boat?
>
> Allen
>
> Allen White
> 1977 C & C 26
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Furler Choice

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I install and service roller furlers. There are some good ones and there are 
some that are junk. 

If I was installing a new furler on Touché, it would be a Harken MKIV.  The 
price differential for the smaller furlers over Harken's cruising furlers isn't 
that great.  The MKIV 's are bombproof. 

I've had a Harken Unit 1 MKIII on Touché for 15 years and it has performed 
flawlessly in all conditions.  I just furled it in the last hour. Furled 
easily. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 4, 2014, at 12:01 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I got my Harken Mark IV Unit 0 on sale at Binnacle.ca for under $1200 and 
> free shipping. Local quotes were up in the range of $1600.  Toggle was on 
> sale at Binnacle too. They don't have a sale on right now and of course it 
> doesn't work if you are not in Canada but these units do go on sale fairly 
> often.
> 
> I think with a C&C 26 a Unit 00 would work as well but that's at the upper 
> range for this unit.
> 
> The Mark IV's have independent top and bottom swivels so that the sail starts 
> furling more evenly over the length of the foil, resulting in better sail 
> shape (or so I am told). The ESP units have a fixed lower swivel. The basket 
> and drum of the Mark IV remove as well for racing.
> 
> Taking down the old furler, assembling the new one and installing it with a 
> new forestay was probably in the range of another $1,000 from the rigger (I 
> had some other work done too).
> 
> As far as sails go I ordered a new genoa in January. I looked at North, UK, 
> Doyle, a local loft (Leitch & McBride) and a number of the online suppliers. 
> North had boat show pricing but the local loft matched that price and 
> provided a sail made locally.
> 
> Interesting that the fall-season North Sails 'trade-in' program pricing was 
> substantially less than the mid-winter boat show pricing even though both 
> were identified as '20% off'  (leading me to believe that the regional North 
> loft gets a lot better 'factory-supported' pricing for the trade-in program 
> than they can supply for boat show season).
> 
> I also noted that some of the online sail companies give discounts for 
> multiple sails too.
> 
> I'm not sure what other sales are available throughout the year, but it might 
> just be worth it to wait and buy your components as you can get the best 
> deals.
> 
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> C&C 27 MkIII
> 
> 
> -Original Message- From: Allen White via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2014 7:17 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Furler Choice
> 
> With much talk recently of the merits of a furling headsail, I have decided
> to bite the bullet, install a new furler and have a new sail made for my 26.
> Someone mentioned that they were quite pleased with their Superfurl. I seem
> to get a different answer from each person I ask this question:
> What is the best choice for a furler on a small boat?
> 
> Allen
> 
> Allen White
> 1977 C & C 26
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> 
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Stus-List Lister racing across Gulf of Mexico

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

One of our listers, Steve Thorne, is racing his C&C 34/36 WK "Deja Vu" in
the Regatta al Sol.  The race begins inside Pensacola Bay and finishes at
Isla Mujeres, Mexico, a distance of 555 nm.

He is in the cruising division which starts Wednesday at 1100 CDT.  The
racing division starts a day later.

Interested parties may follow "Deja Vu" at:

http://kws.kattack.com/GEPlayer/GMPosDisplay.aspx?FeedID=1242

The regatta website is:  http://www.regataalsol.org/

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Technical sail discussion

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I recently re-filed my PHRF certificate to get +6 seconds for a roller furler.  
Subsequently, I just had the luff my Mylar/Kevlar 155 cut down to fit on the 
furler.  My sailmaker cut a bunch off the foot. 

I was chatting about loosing the sail area with one of the really good sailors 
in the club. He said it may actually be a good thing that the foot is higher 
off the deck. He said with the older narrow IOR designs, deck sweeper genoas 
may cause the slot to be less efficient. Might increase the bubble in the main. 

In my simplistic mind I kinda see where he's coming from. The slot gets 
restricted at the deck by the cabin. The lower part of the air flow would get 
pushed upward into the bottom of the main. A higher foot allows some flow to 
escape and keep the air flow lines smooth in the lower slot. 

Does this make sense?

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
MandevilleLA

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Technical sail discussion

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Gary,

You are right about the above deck furler.  I'm in the Gulf Yachting
Association (gya.org) Here's the rule:

"The PHRF committee may allow +6 seconds per mile in rating for a roller
furling headsail and +12 seconds for an optional IN-MAST roller furling
mainsail. Boats must have a SA/DSPL less than 20.01 and an inboard or
saildrive (non-retractable) engine to be eligible for credit(s). The
attached form must be submitted to receive this credit.

1. Uses a working roller furling headsail attached to an above deck mounted
roller furling system. Roller furling headsails must be tacked above the
drum and may be interchangeable with other working roller furling headsails
while racing. Possible +6 seconds!

2. Uses an optional working Roller Furling in-mast mainsail, which may have
no more than 5 vertical battens and that the roach of the sail does not
extend past the backstay (or a line from the top of the mast to the deck
edge of the transom if a back stay is not standard on the boat) and is
furled vertically by rolling rather than flaking. Possible +12 seconds!

3. For the Roller Furling Headsail credit the boat must have a sail
area/displacement of less than 20.01. This value (SA/DSPL) is based on the
following formula: SA/DSPL = SA / (DSPL/64)^2/3.

Sail area and displacement values will be based on the standard dimensions
published for the boat class by US Sailing (
http://offshore.ussailing.org/phrf) “Critical dimensions” using 100% of the
foretriangle and 100% mainsail and mizzen sail area.

4. Each boat has to apply for this credit individually, and the committee
reserves the right to refuse the credit(s) to boats that they deem to be
more racing than cruising. (Refer to GYA-PHRF.com for a copy of the form)

5. Will notify the PHRF Committee of any changes made to the above items."

Touche's SA/DSPL is 20.0

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, May 7, 2014 at 2:30 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I don't know about your PHRF area, but Chesapeake requires that the furler
> drum is above deck AND you have the UV patch (heavy cloth) on both the foot
> and leach of the sail. Then you get the six seconds.
>
> Gary
> - Original Message - From: "Martin DeYoung via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> To: "Dennis C." ; 
> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 1:32 PM
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Technical sail discussion
>
>
>  Calypso's headsails were also cut for a furler with the higher foot, now
>> about 18" off the deck.
>>
>> We still get a significant "speed bubble" in the main at the mid to upper
>> wind range for the light and heavy #1s.  The bubble shows up 6' to 25' (off
>> the deck) on the mainsail.
>>
>> From my miss-spent youth crewing with serious race programs I expect
>> there to be an advantage to the deck sweeper type headsails, more so for
>> the early IOR type sail plans with big fore triangles and smaller
>> mainsails. The engineers may reference something about an end plate effect.
>>
>> Over the last 10 years of club racing Calypso with roller furling
>> headsails we see a significant decrease in performance at the low end of
>> the wind range, especially in acceleration.  Side by side with another C&C
>> 43 that had newer, non-furling headsails Calypso was left in the dust as
>> the wind built from calm to 5 knots.  Once the TWS was above 7 knots the
>> speed difference was much less but the newer sails still pointed higher.
>>
>> After reading about your +6 per mile for the roller furler I need to take
>> a close look at the PHRF-NW book and re-file Calypso's data.  We are still
>> using the old IMS/IOR type measurements.
>>
>> Martin
>> Calypso
>> 1971 C&C 43
>> Seattle
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
>> Dennis C. via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2014 5:51 AM
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Stus-List Technical sail discussion
>>
>> I recently re-filed my PHRF certificate to get +6 seconds for a roller
>> furler.  Subsequently, I just had the luff my Mylar/Kevlar 155 cut down to
>> fit on the furler.  My sail maker cut a bunch off the foot.
>>
>> I was chatting about losing the sail area with one of the really good
>> sailors in the club. He said it may actually be a good thing that the foot
>> is higher off the deck. He said with the older narrow IOR designs, deck
>> sweeper genoas may cause the slot to be less efficient. Might increase the
>> bubble in the main.
>>
>> In my simplistic mind I kinda see where he's coming f

Re: Stus-List NEW OWNER OF POP'AYE, 41 FT C & C, SHOAL DRAFT WTIH CENTERBOARD

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Jack,

Congrats and welcome to the list!

You'll get more advice but the most important is to have the fuel tank
thoroughly cleaned and carry lots of spare fuel filter elements.

Unless you are familiar with the boat and its last few years of life,
assume there is lots of sediment in the tank that will get stirred up with
waves, heeling and motion.  I don't trust "polishing" the fuel.  My
preference would be to have the tank removed, cleaned and re-installed or
even replaced if it is a standard tank.  Heard too many stories about bad
fuel on first deliveries.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, May 11, 2014 at 8:18 PM, Jack McCall via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Hello,
>
>
>
> My name is Jack McCall and I just purchased POP'AYE a C & C 41 with shoal
> draft keel and centerboard.  The boat is currently on its cradle at
> Gregory's Marina, Detroit, Michigan.  Next week I will fly up to Detroit
> and with my five man crew we plan to sail the boat down to Venice, Florida
> where I currently live.  We plan to cross Lake Erie and take the Erie Canal
> to the Hudson river.  Sail down the Hudson River out New York Harbor and
> then down the East Coast to Norfolk, VA where we will enter the ICW
> (Inter-Coastal-Waterway) which we will follow all the way to South Florida.
> Next will be outside down to Key West and then around and up the West Coast
> of Florida to her new dock in Venice, Florida.
>
>
>
> Has anyone out there made this trip in a C & C ???  I can use all the
> advice and tips anyone might offer.  Experience with laying the mast down
> and securing it on deck for the transit of the Erie Canal is our first
> challenge.  There are several marinas at both ends of the canal which have
> jib cranes to assist in the take down and stand up but I could use some
> advice as to the type of stands we should make to carry the mast on deck.
> Any advice as to retuning the rig when we stand it back up would be
> appreciated.  I cannot find any  tuning specifications and/or tips for the
> C & C 41.  I have acquired several cruising guides for the ICW but first
> had knowledge is always the best.
>
>
>
> Plan to be in the water by May 15 and then off to Florida by May 19.  I
> will try to post some reports as our trip progresses.
>
>
>
> Aye for now,
>
>
>
> Jack McCall
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Mark,

A bit of a chain primer might shed some light on this.  Many boaters think
chain is just chain.

However, chain isn't just "chain".  Chain is designated by both size and
type.  Size can even be US or metric.

There are several different types of chain.  Chain can be designated BBB,
proof coil, G3, G4, G34, S4, HT (high test), transport, AlloyGr80,
AlloyGr100 and other types.  Some of these types are just different names
for the same chain. Each chain type has different dimensions, even for the
same size.  Different grades have different strengths.  For instance, 5/16
G4 is stronger than 3/8 BBB.

Also, windlass gypsies are made for certain size and type of chains.  They
don't like other chains.

Commonly, anchor chain is usually BBB, G34 or G4.  High end boats may use
S4.

So, you may have a chain different than what you think.  Go here:



On the left you will see a link called "Reference" then a second link
called "Chain Data".  Selecting one of the chains may help you identify
which chain you have and then help you select a shackle.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Mon, May 12, 2014 at 12:52 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Needed to replace the chain and shackles on my anchor - the existing
> shackles needed to be cut off with a cut-off blade (totally corroded).
>
> Bought 16' of 5/16 galv chain to add to connect the 27lb Kingston plow
> anchor and the ~250ft of 5/8" rode.
> But I was surprised to find that I couldn't fit the U of a 3/8" shackle
> (or even a 5/16") through the 5/16 chain.  Everything I read said I should
> bump up the shackle one size from the chain to maintain working strength -
> but given I couldn't fit the ends of the U through the chain links I had to
> use 2 shackles on the anchor --- one with the pin through the anchor and a
> second shackle reversed with the pin through the chain link.
>
> Is that normal?  I tried chain a 2 different locations with same results
>
> Mark
>
> --
>
>
> There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
>   - George Santayana
>
>
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Re: Stus-List PO,ed

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

In some email providers, the unsubscribe option may not be obvious.  I use
gmail.  No unsubscribe link appears on the email anywhere.

There is a small down arrow next to the address "to cnc-list" under the
"xxx via CnC-List".  If I click that arrow, a window pops up with the
unsubscribe link.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




On Tue, May 13, 2014 at 10:58 PM, Ed Dooley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Almost 20 years into internet lists and people still scream, GET ME OFF
> THIS LIST! instead of selecting the unsubscribe option. What does that say
> about a person's list skills? And... what did someone on this list do
> to piss him off so much?  :-)
> Ed
>
> On May 13, 2014, at 4:24 PM, william drose via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Take me off this damn list NOW!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Original Invoice Prices

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

According to the original invoice, Touché, 1971 35 sold new for $18760 USD in 
September 1971.  At one point it had $62,400 mortgage on it. 

I bought it in 1999 for $10 under original invoice.  Last condition and value 
survey was $40,000. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 15, 2014, at 9:09 AM, Ron's Hardwood via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I would like to hear from some of the owners of the older C&C boats to find 
> out the original invoice prices of their boats. I think that it will be very 
> interesting for us to go back in time and compare the original prices to 
> today’s current value to see the actual depreciation over a long period of 
> time.
>  
> I just received my third survey on Alchemist, a 1986 C&C 29 Mk 2. 14 years 
> ago it was valued at $40,000.00, 6 years ago $24,000.00 and today $18,000.00. 
> The interesting thing is that I put in about $15,000.00 over the last few 
> years in new sails, feathering propeller, instruments, rebuilt engine and 
> transmission, and other incidentals.  
>  
> My cost per sail is actually quite reasonable. If I take into consideration 
> my annual club costs, repairs & maintenance, insurance, replacement of racing 
> sails, fuel, depreciation,  etc. divided by the number of sails a year (about 
> 65 times) my costs are about $100.00 per sail. There are many boats on the 
> lake that only leave the dock a few times a year with costs that are similar 
> to mine so their cost per sail is significantly higher.
>  
> Ron Ander
> E.Y.C.
> Toronto
>  
> 
> 
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Stus-List PC for "cheap"

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Think about this in the context of sailboat ownership. 

At one time or another, we've all done it. Some of us still do it.  We all know 
"that guy down the pier" that's raised it to an art form. 

What?  Doing or fixing something on a sailboat "on the cheap" that does or can 
lead to less than satisfactory results. Something that may create an unsafe 
condition that may put crew or family at risk. Something that eventually will 
need to be done over the right way and end up costing more in the end. 

So..my question is "what clever, imaginative, politically correct phrase 
describes cheap?"

I'm talking about literary genius like using "deferred success" as PC to 
describe failure. 

I've considered "irresponsibly frugal", "excessively thrifty", etc. but I just 
can't seem to create that "aha" PC phrase for "cheap".

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, La




Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List removing prop shaft coupling - how?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If all else fails, cut it in half and buy a new one. :)

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 16, 2014, at 3:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I used a 3 arm puller, PB blaster, a blowtorch, and the largest wrench I 
> could fit on the puller, with a pipe on that as an extension.  I had a 12" 
> adjustable wrench wedged in to keep the shaft from turning (the puller would 
> have turned with it).  The adjustable wrench now has a very impressive bend 
> to it, and it took a fair bit of heat and force to get off.  Hopefully yours 
> isn't that difficult.  And as Mainsail says in his   blog, easiest way is 
> to cut it off...  if time is money, go that route.
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> On 2014-05-16 11:52 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List wrote:
>> I need to replace the stuffing box hose. Boat (30-1) is on the hard and I 
>> have the new Buck Algonquin hose, new packing, new clamps. Anyone have 
>> advice re removal of the forward prop shaft coupling? It is disconnected 
>> from the transmission and I've pulled the prop shaft aft, so there is some 
>> clearance between the couplings. The pbase website suggests that these 
>> couplings may be press fit (as in machine shop press) PB blaster 
>> applied, light taps with mallet do nothing so far, considering heating it 
>> with a torch?
>> 
>> Nate
>> "Sarah Jean"
>> 1980 30-1
>> Siskiwit Bay Marine
>> Lake Superior
>> (with floating ice chunks mid-May.!)
>> 
>> 
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Re: Stus-List Butyl rubber

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Might not be the one you're looking for but I'll bet 3M Weatherban butyl
tape is pretty good stuff.  Never tried it but 3M's reputation is good.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, May 18, 2014 at 8:13 PM, via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hello all
> A few years back I think I read a post from someone who
> claimed that they found a place that sold very high quality Butyl rubber.
> I have looked all over my records for the website that sold this stuff and
> I can't locate it does anyone remember that information? I would like to
> get some that isn't the regular stuff like you would get in RV places. High
> quality stuff is what I want to buy anyone remember that conversation a few
> years back.  Thanks Gary Kolc "Liberty"
>
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Re: Stus-List Plugged exhaust - help!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Common issue with Yanmars. Soot builds up in the mix elbow. Pull the mix elbow 
and clean it.  Should be 4 nuts.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 20, 2014, at 5:17 PM, Dave Lane via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Well, as things usually go, something that worked in the fall doesn't in the 
> spring.
> 
> The engine starts but no cooling water flows out the exhaust - I did not need 
> to find this out on launch day!
> 
> Anyway, this is a C&C 29-2 with 2GM-F engine. I diagnosed it and it's fine 
> all the way to and including the raw water out of the heat exchanger. When I 
> blow into the hose going into the u-shaped exhaust mixer, it's plugged. The 
> engine exhaust itself seems fine. After it goes through the mixer, there is 
> about a 2" ID hose to the muffler then another 2" hose to the stern port.
> 
> This problem may have been getting worse as the years went by as last year I 
> was thinking the water flow was not as much as previous years.
> 
> Questions:
> 
> 1. Is it likely that the blockage is in the mixer? Any suggestion for what I 
> should try next?
> 2. The mixer has a right angle elbow going into it - should I try to remove 
> it? Or stick I wire in it to try to unclog it?
> 3. In order to motor "slowly" home (a few miles) from the marina, I made a 
> run to Canadian Tire for "stuff" and I plugged the exhaust water input to the 
> mixer and made a temporary hose from the heat exchanger that I could feed out 
> of the cockpit locker and over the side (the water flow was great). Can 
> engine be run without water flowing through the muffler? (ie. does it depend 
> on water cooling?)
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> Dave
> St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> "Vela" C&C 29-2
> 
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Re: Stus-List Plugged exhaust - help!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Kinda what I meant. I usually pull the mix elbow so I can make sure it's clean. 
If you can remove the hose and its small elbow, clean it and clean its entrance 
into the mix elbow, that works. 

The couple of Yanmars I work on for this issue have easily accessed mix elbows. 
In fact, I think it's easier than trying to rod out the small water inlet elbow 
with the mix elbow on the engine. 

Depends on the boat, I guess. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 20, 2014, at 7:35 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> But his issue isn't with exhaust getting through the elbow, the issue is with 
> water getting into it - so my money is on the little right angle elbow into 
> the mixing elbow.
> I've had the gasket for a year for removing the mixing elbow to check it, but 
> it never makes it to the top of the list.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
> 
>> On 2014-05-20 9:26 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List wrote:
>> But If it's the original elbow, I suggest replacing it. It's not pretty 
>> when the side falls out of it due to corrosion and your boat slowly fills 
>> with exhaust gas and dirty water.
>> 
>> Rich
>> 
>>> On May 20, 2014, at 21:12, "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Common issue with Yanmars. Soot builds up in the mix elbow. Pull the mix 
>>> elbow and clean it.  Should be 4 nuts.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touché 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On May 20, 2014, at 5:17 PM, Dave Lane via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> Well, as things usually go, something that worked in the fall doesn't in 
>>>> the spring.
>>>> 
>>>> The engine starts but no cooling water flows out the exhaust - I did not 
>>>> need to find this out on launch day!
>>>> 
>>>> Anyway, this is a C&C 29-2 with 2GM-F engine. I diagnosed it and it's fine 
>>>> all the way to and including the raw water out of the heat exchanger. When 
>>>> I blow into the hose going into the u-shaped exhaust mixer, it's plugged. 
>>>> The engine exhaust itself seems fine. After it goes through the mixer, 
>>>> there is about a 2" ID hose to the muffler then another 2" hose to the 
>>>> stern port.
>>>> 
>>>> This problem may have been getting worse as the years went by as last year 
>>>> I was thinking the water flow was not as much as previous years.
>>>> 
>>>> Questions:
>>>> 
>>>> 1. Is it likely that the blockage is in the mixer? Any suggestion for what 
>>>> I should try next?
>>>> 2. The mixer has a right angle elbow going into it - should I try to 
>>>> remove it? Or stick I wire in it to try to unclog it?
>>>> 3. In order to motor "slowly" home (a few miles) from the marina, I made a 
>>>> run to Canadian Tire for "stuff" and I plugged the exhaust water input to 
>>>> the mixer and made a temporary hose from the heat exchanger that I could 
>>>> feed out of the cockpit locker and over the side (the water flow was 
>>>> great). Can engine be run without water flowing through the muffler? (ie. 
>>>> does it depend on water cooling?)
>>>> 
>>>> Thanks in advance,
>>>> 
>>>> Dave
>>>> St. Margaret's Bay, NS
>>>> "Vela" C&C 29-2
>>>> 
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Stus-List Luxury yacht sinks on launch

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Got love this one:

<
http://news.yahoo.com/85-foot-luxury-yacht-sinks-during-maiden-launch-010228735.html
>

Notice anything strange about the picture they used for the story?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Folding prop

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Gee, Andy,

I'm really surprised nobody replied yet.  There's usually a decent
discussion on folders.  Most fall into two camps, the Martec detractors and
the Flex-O-Fold supporters.  I swing a Martec 2 blade folder on Touche'.
As a racer I like it but many do not because of its perceived lack of
reverse power.

Call each supplier and get recommendations and pricing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




On Thu, May 22, 2014 at 10:04 AM, andrew rothweiler via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello, can someone  give advice on selecting a folding prop that would be
> matched with an Atomic 4 in a 35-2?
> Thanks in advance.
> Andy R
>
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Re: Stus-List Teak and Holly floor Boards

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Would you consider plastic?  PlasTeak, Lonseal and others.  Nice looking
and easy to work with.  Basically just like vinyl flooring, cut, glue and
roll with a laminate roller.  Virtually maintenance free.

Roughly 2x cost of wood but 1/5th the work.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sat, May 24, 2014 at 1:44 PM, Lee via CnC-List wrote:

> I  need to replace the floor boards on my 1987 35' C&C Mark 3.
> I am having trouble finding a source.  Any suggestions for me or has
> anyone done this before?
>
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Re: Stus-List Cheeki Raffiti

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Yep.  Beneteau 40.7 returning to England from racing in Antigua.  Keel
gone, windows smashed out, 4 crew missing.  Search now suspended.  Lots of
stories.  Search "Cheeki Rafiki".

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sat, May 24, 2014 at 3:07 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Posted on TicketeebooSaturday, 24 May 2014  Day 8 gone and continuing
> towards Flores, Azores 38:35N 044:32W
>  Start of day 9 Noon on Saturday 24th May 2014.
> In position 38º35'N 044º32'W COG 081(T) SOG 7kn'ish sailing with poled
> 2-reef genoa quite nicely. Wind SW F6. 2-3m seas & sunny.
> Flores, Azores is 082(T) 625NM Dist Run by log in last 24 hours 153NM
> Distance made good towards Flores 159NM.
>
> During hours of darkness on watch this morning BBC World Service reported
> Cheeki Rafiti latest news. Day before yesterday we overheard the British
> SAR aircraft report spotting wreckage close to our intended course to steer
> today. Earlier yesterday at noon we couldn't miss seeing a US Navy SAR
> helicopter circling close by on our port side. The helicopter flew over to
> us at low level then returned to same area on our port side. In meantime
> the US warship, which had been searching an area few miles to the N of us,
> took-off at high speed towards the helicopter and us. The warship called us
> on VHF C16 and asked us to keep clear whilst they manoeuvred to put a
> manned boat in the water to inspect Cheeki Rafiti wreckage located on the
> surface by their helicopter. We were less than 2 miles away and would not
> have spotted the up-turned hull if not for the close presence of the
> helicopter. The US warship then made arrangements for the US Navy Auxilary
> ship Gumman, which had been searching an area few miles to S of us, to join
> them. We continued sailing on our way without interfering with their SAR
> operations. BBC World Service now reports the US Navy used underwater
> cameras to inspect inside the up-turned hull revealing smashed windows,
> liferaft attached and not launched. We were passing through the search
> areas
> keeping lookout for the liferaft and we pinned our hopes on finding it
> because there is always a chance survivors can be found, no matter how
> small the odds.
> Fellow yachties, as well friends and family of yachties will probably feel
> like I do as I write this day's blog during my 00:00 - 03:00 watch, early
> hours this morning. There by the grace of God go I.
> Ticketeeboo MMSI 235071989 Callsign 2CED3, Ham callsign = m0hng
> At 24/05/2014 14:58 UT our position was 38°35.42'N 044°32.85'W
> 
>
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Stus-List Hockles in lines - figure eight vs coiling

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Couple mentions lately about problems with hockles in lines.  Here's a tip.

When you coil a line, you put twists in it.  Yeah, it looks great but will
it run free?

By coiling, I mean rolling in that half twist so the line coils.

Instead, try this.  Hold the line in the palm of your left hand with your
thumb facing the working end, i.e. end towards mast or furler.  Hold the
standing end in the palm of your right hand with your thumb facing the
standing end.  Now, without rolling the line, bring your palms together.
The line will form a figure eight.  Repeat until the line is done.

A line figure-eighted will run free.  A coiled line may jamb up in a block
or mast exit.

Here's a similar method:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fa06oPNJBys

BTW, against my own advice I coil my furling line but when I go to unfurl
the genoa, I throw the line down into the cabin so the twists come out well
before the line gets to the first block.  I have one halyard at the mast.
It gets the figure eight treatment.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Bilge pump installation - was Re: Bilge Pump Cleaning

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Mark,

Rich may offer a different solution but here's how I generally install a
bilge pump.

Get the biggest Rule pump that will fit the space and a separate Rule float
switch, either the Rule-a-Matic or the Superswitch.  If you want a better
float switch and it will fit, get the USS Ultra Pumpswitch mini.

Coat all connections below with TefGel.  Really important in the bilge.

Install a Rule Model 43 rocker switch in a convenient but out of the way
location.  Wire the switch's positive to one of the battery cables on the
back of your battery switch (not the common, the one marked #1 or #2) and
the negative to ground (for the indicator light).  By connecting to the #1
or #2 connection, you're essentially connecting to one of the batteries.
As a rule, I don't like to connect directly to a battery inside the battery
box.

Run the Model 43's auto connection to one side of the float switch.

Connect the other side of the float switch and the Model 43's manual
connection both to the brown wire (+) on the bilge pump.  Make sure the
connection is in a dry place, heat shrink it and coat it with liquid
electrical tape.

Connect the pump's black wire to ground.

Make sure to put a loop in the discharge hose.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA






On Mon, May 26, 2014 at 10:18 PM, M Bod via CnC-List
wrote:

> Rich,
> Thanks for the heads up. I was just online tonight looking at bilge pumps.
> My CS 30 doesn't have an automatic bilge pump, just a manual.
> I feel like I should add an automatic pump, but I wonder what size.
> My boat has a very flat bilge with no 'deep' spots at all and maybe 4"
> space under the floor boards.
>
> What size bilge pump is appropriate? (And will fit)
> Suggestions? Would you the the 'integrated electronic' switch or the old
> fashioned float?
> And suggestions on installation? I gather I should have it pump out near
> the transom above water level (maybe Y it onto the drain from the manual
> pump?) Do you 'direct wire' it to the batteries and bypass the panel?
>
> Mark
>
> On 26 May 2014 23:34, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> > My  bilge pump and I had a small altercation this weekend. It’s a 2000
> gph PAR unit that I have had on the boat for at least 10 years. It has
> never given me problems until it recently decided not to pump any water.
> The motor ran just fine, and I could see the water in the bilge being
> stirred around, but nothing was being sent overboard. It acted as though it
> had an airlock with the impeller only partially submerged.
> >
> > I dismantled it and found that the small slit that acts as an air vent
> at the top of the plastic impeller housing  was completely plugged. This
> prevented any trapped air from escaping from the pump body. Once I cleaned
> the crud out of the vent slit, it performed as new. Good for another ten
> years, thank you.
> >
> > Just a note to tuck away in case anyone has a similar “failure”.
> >
> > Rich Knowles
> > INDIGO LF38
> > Halifax, NS.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Edd,

My Universal 25XPB has a max rpm (one hour) of 2900-3000 rpm.  The manual
states cruise is 80% of that.  I run 2450 rpm as cruise.  The engine seems
to like it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 11:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your diesel
> engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35.
>
> I used to stay around 2300, but people tell me diesels like to be worked
> and I could go higher. My mechanic said don’t be afraid to go 2500 or more,
> but I wonder if he’s just looking for more repair income :-)
>
> How much do you push your engine?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Buy a Tiny-tach.

http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach.php

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 7:52 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Josh
>
> Aha...I have been wondering about the apparent inability of my 3HM35F to
> run at much of anything above 3000 RPM, even in neutral.  The variance from
> the 20 year old analog tach would account for that.  I have been running at
> about 24-2600 RPM on the tach, which, if that variance from actual on mine
> as it was on yours, it makes perfect sense.
>
> thx...I feel much better now...
>
> Tom B
>
>  Tom Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C&C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
>
>
> At 03:49 PM 5/27/2014, you wrote:
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Tue, 27 May 2014 18:44:55 -0400
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> To: "C&C List" 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine
> Message-ID:
>  <
> ca+zacrd3fh6n4s8+tew-3-1w_jga4ver9onjob1xctjjlce...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Yanmar 3HM35F 30hp @3200 rpm continuous.  3400rpm for 1hour.  3600rpm max.
>
> My manual says to avoid extended operation at high vibation rpm.  The
> Idle/shift/minimum rpm spec is 800.  The Kanzaki transmission is required
> to be shifted less than 1000rpm.
>
> I push it as hard and fast as I can while watching and smelling for black
> smoke.  The rpm by analog tach is usually 2500-2800 but by laser-tach it
> usually adds about 200-400rpm.  Boat speed is between 6.0-7.5kts. The
> throttle lever slips a little so after extended operation the rpms creep
> down and I'll have to re-throttle up.  I don't worry about fuel consumption
> since I don't use my 40 gallon tank fast enough anyway.
>
> I hate running the engine but the noise is basically the same regardless of
> rpm.
>
> I also use a great product called Opti-lube XPD.  I strongly recommend it.
> It is marketed to restore the lubricity that has been lost by ultra low
> sulfer diesel (ULSD).  My expierience is that the engine runs smoother, min
> idles a little higher and smoother, and can attain a higher rpm before
> black smoke.
>
> My understanding with ALL diesels is that you want to run the engine near
> full rpm and load as often as possible and the prop should be pitched
> accordingly.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Yanmar 3HM35F
> Solomons, MD
>  On May 27, 2014 12:16 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> > Listers,
> >
> > Curious to know what you set as your own personal Max RPMs on your diesel
> > engine?  The Enterprise has an Universal M35.
>  ...snip...
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> > page at:
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
> -- next part --
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Re: Stus-List List water pump repair

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Bill,

In addition to a faulty pressure switch, one of the diaphragm/check valve
assemblies may leaking.  This results in internal bypassing in the head of
the pump.

Is there a strainer on the pump intake?  If not, debris may have gotten
into the pump head and fouled one of the valves.

Do you have an accumulator on the system?   If so, does it have a Shraeder
valve on it?  If that's the case, turn on the pump, let it build pressure
and measure the pressure at the accumulator with a tire pressure gauge.
Turn the pump off, wait and measure the pressure at intervals.  If the
pressure falls noticeably, the disc valves in the pump head may be leaking.

If you don't have an accumulator, turn on the pump, let it build pressure,
turn it off.  Immediately crack open a faucet and get an idea of the
pressure.  Turn it on again, let it build pressure, turn it off, wait 24
hours and then crack the faucet open again.  If the pressure appears
significantly less, then internal bypassing may be occurring.

You can buy replacement heads and pressure switches for most PAR pumps.
However, as soon as you do, the motor will die.  It's a natural law of
boating.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




On Wed, May 28, 2014 at 9:41 PM, Wwadjourn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>  Anyone know how to troubleshoot PAR diaphragm pump that pumps great but will 
> not shut off when reaches pressure.  Just keeps on grinding.  There is NO air 
> in system.  with faucets open pumps great, great pressure, but when shut 
> faucets it won't reach pressure and stop.  Is there a setting for pressure?  
> Was working fine this spring, now not.
>
> Bill Walker
>
> CnC 36
>
> Pentwater, Mi
>
>
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Re: Stus-List List water pump impeller

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Impeller recipe

One impeller
1 tsp cup rosemary
1 tsp savory
pinch of chili pepper
2 tbsp olive oil
Sea salt
Ground pepper

Remove vanes from impeller and chop
Toss impeller pieces with remaining ingredients.
Wrap in aluminum foil.
Lay atop engine.
Cruise to favorite anchorage (minimum one hour)
Unwrap and serve with favorite vegetable and a nice Cabernet Sauvignon

For Cajun version add 1 tsp Tony Cachere's Seasoning.  Serve over rice.

That ought to spur another round of unsubscribes.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
mandeville, LA


On Thu, May 29, 2014 at 7:40 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Jim,
>
>
>
> You need to use “extra virgin” olive oil.  It will taste much better!
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Jim
> Watts via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 28, 2014 9:20 PM
> *To:* Peter Delean; 1 CnC List
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List List water pump impeller
>
>
>
> I remember that. It gave a real funky taste to stuff when you cooked with
> the oil.
>
>
> Jim Watts
> Paradigm Shift
> C&C 35 Mk III
> Victoria, BC
>
>
>
> On 28 May 2014 09:16, Peter Delean via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Marek,
>
>
>
> Copied from this list last year:
>
>
>
> "Store used impellers in a used mayonnaise jar with olive oil. They will
>
> be lubricated for installation in the spring and will not have a set as a
> result of
>
> spending the winter in the pump.
>
> This not an original idea on my part, it came from a Yanmar maintenance
>
> seminar."
>
>
>
> From Ray Shibe, not my quote.
>
> Peter Delean
>
> C&C 30 Mk1
>
> Drifter 2
>
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Re: Stus-List Strange HIN, can anyone clarify

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

That may be a state issued HIN. Touché has a state issued HIN because the 1971 
HIN format didn't match the USCG standard.  The state  HIN number does not have 
CCZ or CCY.  It has some random code but matches the USCG format. 

I'm thinking the 300116 is correct and the C&C code is just omitted.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 30, 2014, at 8:38 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> A friend is looking at a 1974 30-1 in Beaufort, NC. The seller gave us a copy 
> of a recent survey of the boat.
> 
> On the survey the hull number is listed as "300116" which is probably taken 
> from the metal plate in the cockpit. Model 30. Hull #116. Makes sense.
> 
> But the HIN shown for the boat is MDZ45139G473, which seems all wrong. For 
> one thing, the date would make this a 73 model not a 74. And MDZ is the 
> manufacturer code for a home made boat built in Maryland.
> 
> Can anyone help me clarify what appears to be an error or typo in the survey? 
> Does anyone her have a HIN like this.?
> 
> Rick brass
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Has a Cape Dory 25 look but not 100% sure.

Dennis C.


On Sun, Jun 1, 2014 at 8:01 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Just saw this lovely little sloop in Hadley Harbor, Buzzards Bay today.
>  About 25 feet long.  Can anyone identify her class?  Two photos are
> available on my dropbox - here are the URLs.
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/3ng1dpa8onucxxp/IMG_1011.jpg
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/kyddmw7d585jfgh/IMG_1018.jpg
>
> Thanks, Eric
>
> Cat's Paw
> C&C 35 Mk II
> Mattapoisett, MA
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Advice on Window replacement on C&C 30 Mk1

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Like others have said, easy job.  Here's the step by step.

Cut new lenses from smoked Lexan (polycarbonate) using old lenses as
template

Mix a bowl of soapy water and make a "push" stick.  A cut off piece of yard
stick or similar will work.

Clean the old gasket off the aluminum frame completely.

Install the new EPDM gasket from Lowes or Home Depot (Frost King D gasket
V25BK or MD Building Products #1025) with joint at top

Place lens.

Wet spline with soapy water and start spline at top center.  Work it around
frame using soapy water and push stick,

Pop a beer.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Jun 3, 2014 at 7:59 AM, Joe at Zialater via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Rick,
>
> I replaced the seals on my 1975 30 MK1 last year.  It was an absolute
> breeze.  Got the parts from South shore yachts - just measure and order.
> Take out the old gaskets and clean the aluminum frames.  If your windows
> are
> shot (mine were fine) just use the old windows to as a template for the new
> ones.  Reinstall windows with the sticky back seal and then the gaskets.
> Took about an hour to do all four - no leaks and they look great.  If I
> recall,  the south shore kit included detailed instructions.
>
> Good luck,
>
> Joe Boyle
> '75 30 MK1 "Zia"
> Annapolis
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Repositioning Mast

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Steve,

Others have given you good advice. Just count the turns on the shrouds as you 
loosen the rig.   Use a pry bar to move it forward. No biggie. 

I put shims under my mast by loosening the rig, placing a vehicle jack under a 
winch, lifting it and sliding the shims under the butt. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 4, 2014, at 2:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I made a stupid newbie mistake when we stepped the mast. In my defence it was 
> a busy, windy, choppy day and we had to hire a crane to come to the club to 
> step everyone's mast .. and I helped everyone, so when it came time to do my 
> boat I was kind of on autopilot. We stepped 29 masts that day.
> 
> So I failed to remember that there are wedges fore and aft at the mast base 
> that keep the mast centered in the step. My girlfriend says to me the other 
> day while pointing at a pair of wedges in the boat .. did you forget to put 
> the wedges in the partner? Um, no I did not. Then I realized my mistake and 
> took a look at the mast base ... the mast is seated all the way aft. I guess 
> this would cause some forward rake? I'm all ears in regards to how this might 
> affect the rig, sail shape, etc? 
> 
> In any case, I'de like to center the thing and put the wedges where they are 
> supposed to go. I know I can loosen the tension on the rig and I've used 
> halyards in place of the forestay and shrouds on previous occasions to fix 
> this or that but even with the rig tension way down is the weight of the mast 
> itself going to prevent me from sliding it forward about 1.5 inches? What 
> would be the correct order to loosen the rig? Backstay, lowers, uppers? I'de 
> rather not futz with the forestay if I can help it but I did just disconnect 
> it about a week ago to fix a kink in the furler so I'm not shy to do it again.
> 
> Any help/recommendations are much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Cutlass Bearing for RedWing 35/ C&C 35 MKI

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

No clue if you have the same strut as Touche's (35-1 with 7/8 shaft) but I
use cutless bearing Duramax ACID.  Dimensions sound the same as yours.  I
think I just centered the bearing in the strut and ignored the "leftover"
on each end.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 4:29 PM, JCRaha via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hi;
>
>
>
> I am replacing the cutlass bearing on CIRCE, our 1970 Redwing 35/ C&C 35
> MKI and need advice.
>
>
>
> The shaft is 7/8” dia. The strut opening for the cutlass bearing is 1-1/8”
> and a length of 3”.
>
>
>
> I was not able to find a direct replacement for the bearing. The closest I
> was able to get is a 7/8” ID cutlass bearing that has a 1-1/4” OD and a
> length of 3.5”
>
>
>
> I am planning to ‘hone’ the opening to 1-1/4”…any thoughts…
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Chris
>
>
>
> CIRCE – Redwing 35/ C&C 35 MKI (Hull RW7017)
>
>
>
>
> --
>
>
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Stus-List Annapolis > Bermuda race

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Everybody watching?

http://www.bermudaoceanrace.com/race-overview/2014tracker

C&C listers are Joel Aronson, "The Office" and Steve Sharkey, "Impromtu".

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Annapolis to Bermuda Race nearing finish

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Looks like Steve Sharkey's Impromptu may finish first in PHRF-3 class.
He's about 70 miles out and leads the next boats by about 12 miles.  Hard
to tell but he looks pretty good for corrected time also.

http://www.bermudaoceanrace.com/race-overview/2014tracker

Joel needs some breeze to catch up.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Backstay Tension

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Guess I'm wondering what the wave state was.  If you had 2+ foot seas, you
may want a bit of sag for power.  If the seas were flat then I could see a
fairly straight forestay but not at the risk of damaging the boat.

I rarely use more than 1100 lbs on my Navtec.  I've seen a "smile" at the
aft end of the keel on haul out and suspect excess backstay tension as the
culprit.

I've found my 35-1 likes a bit of sag even in heavy air.  Seems to open the
slot ever so slightly and allow the boat to "breathe".

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



On Thu, Jun 12, 2014 at 6:54 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tim:
>
> It's important to know the force being applied, not the pressure.  Force
> is equal to pressure multiplied by the area of the hydraulic cylinder, and
> all cylinders are not the same.  There's a Navtec manual on the photoalbum
> web site.  Find out which hydraulic cylinder you have, and look up the
> cylinder's area in the Navtec manual.  The C&C 35   uses #10 rod, with a
> breaking strength of 10,300 lbs. Recommended preload limit is 25% - 33% of
> breaking strength, or 2600 - 3,400 lbs.  Absolute preload limit is 40% of
> breaking strength or 4,100 lbs.  You can use these numbers to figure out
> the recommended and maximum pressures based on your cylinder size.  You can
> also order a free, force ring label from Navtec to apply to your hydraulic
> gauge.  Remember to specify cylinder size when ordering the Force ring
> label.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> Hi all 35-3 racers (and others with hydraulics), how much do you tension
> your backstay to get an acceptably straight forestay in 20-25kts?  We were
> racing in that last night and our forestay was way looser than I wanted
> with the backstay at 2000psi (2 on the hydraulic panel).  I have never gone
> above this before (1.8 seemed to be plenty for most conditions last year),
> but wondered what others maxed out at.
>
> I think the backstay is -10 rod with associated cylinder and we have a
> navtec panel that manages both backstay and vang.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
> Mojito
> C&C 35-3
> Branford, CT
>
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Re: Stus-List Chutes and Furling Headsails

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Not quite sure what you're asking but here's what happens on the foredeck
assuming a port rounding and a starboard pole chute set.  I hope I get it
right from memory.  :)

Pre- chute hoist - pole is on deck.  Jibsheets are on TOP of pole forward
of topping lift if attached.  Pole topping lift is either not attached to
pole bridle and pinned at mast or is attached but with a LOT of slack so it
essentially hangs straight down the mast to the deck (near the collar).
Pole downhaul is attached with appropriate slack.  I usually, pull the
downhaul up over my head before attaching to lower bridle.

Hoist - pole is set, guy is pre-fed, pole end is pulled back.  Chute is
hoisted, clews are spread, chute fills.  Headsail is furled.

OK, at this point the starboard jibsheet should be over the pole and
forward of the topping lift.  The downhaul is under the pole.

Now you gybe.  End for end gybes will drop the jibsheets to the deck UNDER
the pole but forward of the downhaul.  You will need to re-run one of the
jibsheets OVER the pole and forward of the topping lift on the last gybe
before the mark to ensure it is clear to tack.  Make sure when the pole is
dropped that the jibsheet stays on top of the pole.  After the drop, it is
the foredeck's responsibility to check the jibsheets and advise the
afterguard that they are "clear to tack".

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Fri, Jun 13, 2014 at 4:06 PM, OldSteveH via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I "grew up" sailing on racing boats.
> None had furlers, ie with jibsheets on furled sails, fouling the pole
> downhaul and also the pole itself.
> After 4 years with DG I still have to sort out the arrangement every time
> we
> fly the chute.
> And God help us if we have to gybe.
>
> Can someone explain: Imagine the headsail furled with sheets going back to
> starboard and port amidships.
> Should I be routing the pole downhaul (which is on a pillowblock center
> foredeck) a. between the jib sheets, b. to one side of them or the other?
> Are there any odd requirements for a gybe, ie a re-route?
>
> I thought of taking a bungee cord and tying the jibsheets up near the tack
> of the jib. That would make it like the old days.
>
> This has got to be simpler than I'm making it right now. Thanks for any
> tips.
>
>
> Steve Hood
> S/V Diamond Girl
> C&C 34
> Lions Head ON
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Impromptu A2B race

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Congrats to you both. Just preparing and competing is a great accomplishment.  

Glad you finished safely.  Wishing you a safe return. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 14, 2014, at 3:40 PM, Steve Sharkey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Joel!  And congratulations to you for a great third place finish!  
> 
> Steve
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Jun 14, 2014 at 3:56 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Congrats to Steve sHarkey for taking division 3 in the A2B!
>> 
>> Joel
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> Joel 
>> 301 541 8551
>> 
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Re: Stus-List What happened 15th 16th June

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

List seemed to be working fine those days.  I decided to sell Touché. Offered 
it for sale for
$6500 on the 15th.  Another lister snapped it up on the 16th. 

NOT!  Guess everybody was just doing other stuff. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83 (not for sale)
Mandeville, LA



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 17, 2014, at 12:12 PM, Peter Fell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> No posts most of 15th and all of 16th June? Or did the list go down?
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Re: Stus-List C&C 32 Genoa sheets

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

1/2 inch is too big. That manual was written a while back. Modern line is 
stronger now. I use 3/8 VPC for my 35-1. 

Those replaced 7/16 StaSet. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 18, 2014, at 3:56 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> John,
>  
> The 32 owner’s manual says: 2 X 60’ of ½” double braid for the genoa sheets.
>  
>  
> Rick Taillieu
> Nemesis
> '75 C&C 25  #371
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: June-18-14 14:58
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 32 Genoa sheets
>  
> I am about to purchase new sheets for my 135% Genoa to be compatible with my 
> new St 40 Primary winches and measured my old sheets up at  a total of 94 Ft. 
> Seems a bit excessive. Some rough estimates get me to 84 Ft total. Any 
> sources and experience for the recommended length of sheets for a 135% on a 
> C&C 32?
>  
> John
> Arpeggio 1984
> Norwalk, CT
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2014.0.4592 / Virus Database: 3972/7699 - Release Date: 06/18/14
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Re: Stus-List Jib sheet bowlines hang up on baby stay

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I had a very similar problem times two.  Touche' has forward lower
shrouds.  It's like having two baby stays.  Touche's jibsheet bowlines hung
up on each of the forward lower shrouds on each tack.

I ordered new 3/8 VPC jibsheets with eyes in each end from apsltd.com.  To
attach the sheets to the sail, I used soft shackles, one on each eye.

Problem solved!  Our first tack with the new system was amazing.  The sails
flew through the foretriangle with little to no delay or hanging up.
Highly recommend the upgrade to soft shackles.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Jun 18, 2014 at 8:21 PM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I find that my jib sheet bowlines get hung up on my stay quite a bit,
> especially with my 130 on. Any suggestions?
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin
> 30-2
>
> Sent from a mobile device.
>
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Re: Stus-List Winch for sale?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Steve,

If memory serves me, Barients and Barlow winches are rated in pounds.  So, a 
Barient 18 would handle 1800 pounds of load. 

Modern winches are numbered by power ratio (with 10 inch handle). So to find an 
equivalent winch, determine the power ratio of your winch and look for the 
Lewmar, Harken, etc. that best matches. 

Also look at the base diameter.  You probably want to cover the footprint of 
the old winch. 

If you're replacing a cabin top winch with a more powerful winch, you may need 
to strengthen the mounting area. This is NOT as simple as just installing a 
backing plate. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 20, 2014, at 11:28 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good timing. I have a related question, what would be the equivalent in an 
> Anderson or other from current manufacturers? Is there a guide somewhere to 
> sizing winches? My main is sheeted using a Barient 18 and I'de like to 
> replace it with an ST.
> 
> I have a pair of chrome (SS?) Barient 28s if anyone is interested.
> 
> Thanks,
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
> 
>> On Fri, Jun 20, 2014 at 10:14 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> I have most of one; I think Barient 19 self tailer.  The boat yard was 
>> servicing it this spring and dropped part of the line stripper in the water. 
>>  As we had agreed a launch date and the part needed to come from Australia 
>> they gave me a new winch at cost / free installation.  I can look up the # 
>> and the missing part when we're back home Monday (we're just heading over to 
>> Port Jefferson for the w/e) if you are interested.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Tim
>> Mojito
>> C&C 35-3
>> Branford, CT
>> 
>> 
>>> On Fri, Jun 20, 2014 at 9:53 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Looking to replace my barient 18 (6.7:1, 24:1) cabin top with a self 
>>> tailer. Of similar power ratio.
>>> 
>>> Does anyone have one they would like to sell?
>>> 
>>> Sent from a mobile device.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> 
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Re: Stus-List Winch for sale?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Dwight,

I upgraded my cabin top winches from Barlow 10's to Barient 22's.  That's
quite an increase in power ratio.  We race so we're cranking a lot of
tension on the genoa halyard.  The first time we REALLY tensioned the genoa
halyard, the cabin top deformed and creaked.  The winch tilted forward
slightly.

I made 1/4 inch thick plates of roving and epoxied them under the cabin
top.  The plates extend forward of the winches for a couple inches to
spread the load.  They must be epoxied because a simple backing plate would
just separate from the underdecking forward of the winches.

Now the deck is strengthened, solid and doesn't deform when one of my
gorilla crew members decides to grind the heck out of the genoa halyard.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Fri, Jun 20, 2014 at 7:48 PM, dwight  wrote:

>  I replaced my cabin top single speed Barient 10 main halyard winch
> with a Barient 18, 2 speed that I had lying around the garage from days
> gone by…I did not consider strengthening the mounting area because I
> figured the loads would essentially be the same… the cabin top where the
> winch is mounted on the 35 MKII is quite thick and soild GRP. I do not
> expect any strength related issues from the winch change…the Barient 18 two
> speed seemed to fit the size of the boat better but the Barient 10 actually
> did the job quite well…I would not have made the change if not for having a
> perfectly good winch just lying around doing nothing special
>
>
>  --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
> C. via CnC-List
> *Sent:* June 20, 2014 7:54 PM
> *To:* Stevan Plavsa; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Winch for sale?
>
>
>
> Steve,
>
>
>
> If memory serves me, Barients and Barlow winches are rated in pounds.  So,
> a Barient 18 would handle 1800 pounds of load.
>
>
>
> Modern winches are numbered by power ratio (with 10 inch handle). So to
> find an equivalent winch, determine the power ratio of your winch and look
> for the Lewmar, Harken, etc. that best matches.
>
>
>
> Also look at the base diameter.  You probably want to cover the footprint
> of the old winch.
>
>
>
> If you're replacing a cabin top winch with a more powerful winch, you may
> need to strengthen the mounting area. This is NOT as simple as just
> installing a backing plate.
>
>
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touché 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
> On Jun 20, 2014, at 11:28 AM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Good timing. I have a related question, what would be the equivalent in
> an Anderson or other from current manufacturers? Is there a guide somewhere
> to sizing winches? My main is sheeted using a Barient 18 and I'de like to
> replace it with an ST.
>
>
>
> I have a pair of chrome (SS?) Barient 28s if anyone is interested.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 20, 2014 at 10:14 AM, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I have most of one; I think Barient 19 self tailer.  The boat yard was
> servicing it this spring and dropped part of the line stripper in the
> water.  As we had agreed a launch date and the part needed to come from
> Australia they gave me a new winch at cost / free installation.  I can
> look up the # and the missing part when we're back home Monday (we're just
> heading over to Port Jefferson for the w/e) if you are interested.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Tim
>
> Mojito
>
> C&C 35-3
>
> Branford, CT
>
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 20, 2014 at 9:53 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  Looking to replace my barient 18 (6.7:1, 24:1) cabin top with a self
> tailer. Of similar power ratio.
>
> Does anyone have one they would like to sell?
>
> Sent from a mobile device.
>
>
>
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>  __

Stus-List 35-1 for sale in maryland

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

http://baltimore.craigslist.org/boa/4527680223.html

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Yanmar 2GM20 Starter Not Starting / Engaging

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Push starter switches are subject to carbon build up.  Jump the contacts on
the back of the switch.  If the starter engages, replace the switch.

If that doesn't work, look to the wiring as others have suggested.

Dennis C.


On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 10:40 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Everybody,
>
>
>
> My starter is beginning to misbehave a bit. Looking for help diagnosing
> issue.
>
>
>
> *Symptom: *Occasionally (with more frequency now) I will press the
> starter button on my Yanmar 2GM20 and nothing happens. No, turning over,
> etc. Just crickets. Then I take my finger off and try it again and it
> starts to turn over fine. Occasionally I have to press twice before it will
> start to engage.
>
>
>
> Any ideas? When this happened on my classic BMW motorcycle, it was my
> starter relay. Could it be the same on my Yanmar? Whatever it is it seems
> electrical rather than mechanical.
>
>
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kevin
>
> 30-2
>
>
> Kevin Driscoll
> Portland,  Oregon
> 503  //  875  //  3493
>
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Re: Stus-List Rigging Problem

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Tell us more.

Deep keel or centerboard?

1.  Sails?  Old?  Bagged out?
2. Rake?  Need to hear from other 35-3 owners.
3. Trim?  How tight? How far off speaders?
4. Mast bend?  How much?
5. Genoa lead?  Were the tell tales breaking evenly up and down the genoa?
6. Angle vs course.  Was your angle the same as the others or were you
pointed lower.  If pointed the same what were the wind conditions?  Were
you getting pushed sideways?

Dennis C.


On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 1:27 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Great wind for a Wednesday evening club race, great start, and then got
> smoked by three other boats one of which was another C&C 35 MK3. I had just
> had the bottom cleaned, had plenty of boat speed but I just couldn’t point
> as high as the others.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions on where I should start to look for an answer?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
> Saltaire
>
> C&C 35 MK3
>
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Re: Stus-List Rigging Problem

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Can you 35-3 owners help him with the rake?  I know that my 35-1 wants a
minimum of 10-12" aft of the gooseneck with a plumb line from the masthead.

Basically, as much as you can stand without excessive weather helm.

Dennis C.


On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 5:49 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With that much wind you are on the cusp of reefing the main. Do you add
> main halyard tension?  Cunningham?  Outhaul?  Ease the mainsheet ( not the
> traveler) to let the top of the main twist off.  Move the jib car aft a
> couple inches. If you are heeling more than 20 degrees you will be slow.
>
> Joel
>
>
> On Friday, June 27, 2014, David Jacobs via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Dennis,
>>
>>
>>
>> In response to your questions,
>>
>>
>>
>> · The boat is a 6’ keel
>>
>> · Brand new Thurston (albeit cruising but really nicely shaped)
>> sails (main and 135%)
>>
>> · Rake is something I need some education about. The mast was
>> pulled and I added all new rod rigging and a Harken Furler so the rake is
>> whatever it was when the boatyard (Burr Brothers in Marion) stepped the
>> mast. So, how do I measure it and what’s the proper amount of rake?
>>
>> · Trim was good. Very experience crew who is in the industry and
>> has been racing since the age of 8 trimming the jib and the main telltales
>> were streaming well (front of the jib and back of the main trimmed well).
>> 4” off the lower spreader and just off the top spreader.
>>
>> · 1500 pounds on the backstay to take the sag out of the head
>> stay (taken off when off the wind). Slight bend in the mast but I don’t
>> have a quantitative answer.
>>
>> · I was totally focused on sailing to the genoa tell tales which
>> we kept streaming evenly up and down the genoa. However the “grove” between
>> pinching and too far off the wind seemed very tight (maybe not enough
>> halyard tension?).
>>
>> · Wind was 15-18 knots and I was not able to point as high as
>> the others including the other 35 MK3. Also it appears that the skipper of
>> the other C&C MK3 can sail his boat flatter. Yes, he did have more crew on
>> the rail but I’ve seen this in other races also when it wasn’t as windy.
>> So, I’m wondering if this particular design likes to sail slightly pinched.
>>
>> ·     Bottom cleaned two days prior to the race and every three
>> weeks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any help appreciated. Need to improve or my crew might mutiny L
>>
>>
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis
>> C. via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, June 27, 2014 5:13 PM
>> *To:* CnClist
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Rigging Problem
>>
>>
>>
>> Tell us more.
>>
>> Deep keel or centerboard?
>>
>>
>> 1.  Sails?  Old?  Bagged out?
>>
>> 2. Rake?  Need to hear from other 35-3 owners.
>>
>> 3. Trim?  How tight? How far off speaders?
>>
>> 4. Mast bend?  How much?
>>
>> 5. Genoa lead?  Were the tell tales breaking evenly up and down the genoa?
>>
>> 6. Angle vs course.  Was your angle the same as the others or were you
>> pointed lower.  If pointed the same what were the wind conditions?  Were
>> you getting pushed sideways?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 1:27 PM, David Jacobs via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Great wind for a Wednesday evening club race, great start, and then got
>> smoked by three other boats one of which was another C&C 35 MK3. I had just
>> had the bottom cleaned, had plenty of boat speed but I just couldn’t point
>> as high as the others.
>>
>>
>>
>> Any suggestions on where I should start to look for an answer?
>>
>>
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> Saltaire
>>
>> C&C 35 MK3
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
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>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>
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Re: Stus-List . Re: Yanmar 2GM20 Starter Not Starting / Engaging

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Also disconnect the wiring harness connector, clean the puns, coat with TefGel 
or Boeshield T-8 and reconnect. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 28, 2014, at 8:47 AM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I'm out cruising so I can't do the research to find a link to the info but... 
> If you google around enough you should find some info on a known Yanmar 2GM20 
> issue involving the starter relay. IF this is your problem, it won't be fixed 
> without installing a second relay.
> 
> I don't know how many years they made them like this but I'm gonna guess 
> yours is approx a 1988?
> 
> If I get to  a wifi signal and can use my iPad I'll try and find more info
> 
> Rob Gallagher. 
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Stus-List Old C&C deck gelcoat color

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have the gelcoat color books from Fibre Glast.  I have looked at the
colors in different light, shadow, etc. and have determined the color that
seems to match Touche' deck best is Instint F155.  I ordered a quart for a
test.  Haven't tried it yet but thought I would pass on some info.

On the label on the top of the can is what appears to be the mix
formulation.  It says

Whi 1 kg
g
Bla1 0.81
Red1 0.27
Yel1 1.03

One could assume the bottom 3 are grams of each tint into 1 kg of the white
base.

So, there ya go, folks, give it a shot.

When I get around to applying the gelcoat to Touche', I'll report how well
it matches once cured.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List pointing problem

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Might also want to note the difference in course over ground on each tack.
Comparing the tacking angle (heading) vs tacking angle (course made good)
may indicate show excessive leeway.  That may indicate sails trimmed too
much, excess heel, etc.

I don't have a good feel for an acceptable leeway for a 35-3 in those
conditions.  I'm guessing 5-7 degrees low of course steered???

Dennis C.


On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 5:41 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi David,
> Curious why your complaint of pointing seems focused on the rig?
> What is your tacking angle?  It should be 90 degrees or less.
> Write down your compass headings on each tack next time sailing and see
> what angles you are actually sailing?
> How far from center is the helm?  How many spokes from center do you need
> on the wheel?  Ours is typically one spoke from center but as we get
> powered up and overpowered, it may be two spokes.  More than that and we
> adjust sails, flatten the sails or drop the traveller or shorten sail.
>
> Assuming you have good boat speed we can rule out the bottom but be aware
> to win races, you need to have a better bottom than the fleet.  Just
> saying.  If they are burnishing their bottom, you have to also.
>
> Things you can always improve on:
> Sail trim, steering to telltales, heel angle, crew on the rail?  Are you
> steering as high as your telltales allow?  Are you playing the windshifts?
> Did you copy the 35 MkIII ahead of you?  Are you pinching?  Are you heeling
> more than the competitors?Are the other boats better prepped?  Are your
> Keel and rudder foils in good shape; properly foiled and faired smooth?
> Are the competition's sails in better condition?   Is your prop feathered
> or folded and shaft locked?
>
> There are some excellent books and videos on sail trim and racing
> strategies I can recommend?
>
> Chuck
> Resolute
> 1990 C&C 34R
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> --
> *From: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> *To: *"CNC boat owners, cnc-list" 
> *Sent: *Friday, June 27, 2014 2:27:26 PM
> *Subject: *Stus-List Rigging Problem
>
> Great wind for a Wednesday evening club race, great start, and then got
> smoked by three other boats one of which was another C&C 35 MK3. I had just
> had the bottom cleaned, had plenty of boat speed but I just couldn’t point
> as high as the others.
>
>
>
> Any suggestions on where I should start to look for an answer?
>
>
>
> Dave
>
> Saltaire
>
> C&C 35 MK3
>
> ___
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>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Atkins & Hoyle hatch

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Try hatchrepair.com

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 3, 2014, at 9:28 PM, Barbara Hickson Fellers via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Joel, 
>  Ouch!  Sorry for your broken frame. Glad you made it home safe! Bet you had 
> a good time. Bermuda's great. 
> But the Atkins will be happy to sell you a new hatch. I've been just trying 
> to rebed a new lens in my 200 frame and it's been a nightmare to deal with 
> A&H. 
> Last Feb., I told them I needed new pass through gaskets and a new hatch 
> gasket for the 200 frame built in'76. What they sent was 2 plastic handle 
> sleeves and two rubber bushings and the hatch gasket. They did not tell me 
> that they had redesigned the newer pass thru handles with a counter drilled 
> hole that required different kinds of gasketing and that's what they sent. I 
> already had the cast acrylic lens drilled and shaped (bought and machined 
> locally) as per the old lens template. AND as I was dismantling (ok, 
> grappling with) the handles from the old lens, one of the outside round 
> handles broke flat in two. So I order another one bout $100 and when it 
> comes, it is not exactly the same size interior hole as the original. Could 
> someone at A&H given me a heads up about this when I explained in detail what 
> I was doing the second time I called?!  Yes I spoke to Brian. Later I spoke 
> to Eric. Brian had originally given me a quote of $900 to refurb my hatch 
> cover, replacing gasket, lens,
  and through handle gaskets while using my original handles. Did not include 
shipping from SC to Ontario. So to add insult to injury, while researching 
Sikaflex vs. Dow 795 to bed the frigging lens, I come across SelectPlastics in 
Baltimore. They'll refurb the hatch for $595, shipping not included.  At this 
point, I'm already in this for $450. 
> I will buy another matching round exterior handle from them and I will find 
> gaskets from a local hardware store that will not leak. I will make this 
> work. I love sailing and I love my boat.  I will focus on that.  And Arthur 
> is not affecting us much here in the lowcountry. . The tarp 
> is holding up well over the empty forward hatch. Happy sailing y'all,  
> Barbara H. Fellers
> 
> 
>> On Jul 2, 2014, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> 
>> Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
>>  cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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>> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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>> 
>> You can reach the person managing the list at
>>  cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
>> than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
>> 
>> 
>> Today's Topics:
>> 
>> 1.  AH 4000 Questions (Della Barba, Joe)
>> 2. Re:  AH 4000 Questions (Paul Fountain)
>> 3. Re:  swan --> Canada Day (Russ & Melody)
>> 4.  c&c design 41ft yawl (Jimmy Kelly)
>> 5. Re:  c&c design 41ft yawl (Della Barba, Joe)
>> 6. Re:  swan (Martin DeYoung)
>> 7. Re:  AH 4000 Questions (Kevin Driscoll)
>> 8.  butyl cleanup? (Nate Flesness)
>> 9. Re:  butyl cleanup? (Wally Bryant)
>> 10. Re:  butyl cleanup? (Joseph Bognar)
>> 11. Re:  butyl cleanup? (Brent Driedger)
>> 12. Re:  Atkins Hoyle hatch (Marek Dziedzic)
>> 13. Re:  AH 4000 Questions (Jim Watts)
>> 14. Re:  AH 4000 Questions (Stevan Plavsa)
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 1
>> Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2014 12:19:38 -0400
>> From: "Della Barba, Joe" 
>> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>> Subject: Stus-List AH 4000 Questions
>> Message-ID:
>>  <1073606396712942aee54d9a960e45a71e76282...@hq-mb-07.ba.ad.ssa.gov>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> My autopilot has developed 2 annoying behaviours. One is it will release on 
>> its own at times. I need a bungee on the engagement lever or it will creep 
>> up and let go at random times. The other one is despite the gasket looking 
>> good, water gets in the computer box. I have to drain it every now and then 
>> or it starts shorting out the buttons and making it do random things. Anyone 
>> know what is up with this?
>> 
>> Joe Della Barba
>> Coquina
>> C&C 35 MK I
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2014 16:29:13 +
>> From: Paul Fountain 
>> To: "Della Barba, Joe" ,
>>  "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List AH 4000 Questions
>> Message-ID:
>>  <8f58330953d84f07a7015757577a3...@blupr05mb135.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
>> 
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> 
>> Joe,
>> 
>> Must be the auto obsolescence feature ... 
>> 
>> Paul Fountain
>> Managing Director
>> SeaSource Inc.
>> Bookkeeping & IT Services.
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Della 
>> Barba, Joe via CnC-List
>> Sent: July 1, 2014 12:20 PM
>> To: cnc-lis

Re: Stus-List Talk some sense into me please!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Small boat, small systems. Manual pumps, small lines, small sails, less 
maintenance, smaller slip fees, etc.

Big boat, big systems.  Electric pumps, electric shower sump, big expensive 
lines and sails, increased dockage, propane gas systems and solenoids, etc.  
lots of expensive stuff to break and replace. 

Small boat, good feel for the water. Fun to sail. Easy to dock. Easy to 
see/feel changes in sail trim.  Dinghies are a blast to sail!

Big boat (even a C&C), less feel for the water, harder to dock.  May or may not 
see/feel changes in sail trim. 

Summary, smaller boat = all the fun of sailing with less hassle. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 4, 2014, at 12:59 PM, Ryan Beckett via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I am a new owner of a 1973 C&C 30 Mk1. I have fallen in a love with the brand 
> of C&C and am really enjoying sailing even though I have only owned the boat 
> a couple months.
> 
> I am a single 31 year old guy, but I have been thinking a 35-45 footer may 
> have been a better move. There was a 1980 42' foot Landfall sent to me for 
> about the same about of money that I have into my 30 footer!
> 
> What is every one's thoughts and advice? I am trying to temper my 
> impulsiveness and just learn on and enjoy my 30' to make sure its a 
> sport/lifestyle/hobby for me but dangling the Landfall in front of me for 
> such a great price is tempting!!!
> 
> Warm Regards,
> 
> 
> Ryan S. Beckett
> Partner & Co-Founder
> 561.301.6337 mobile
>  
> 
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Stus-List About bigger boats

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I'm sitting on a balcony watching the sunset at a friend's condo overlooking 
the beginning of Rocky Bayou on the northern reaches of Choctowatchee Bay at 
Niceville, Fla. I'm pondering the recent thread on a bigger boat. 

This venue is lovely. We've watched a lot of sailboats and power boats come and 
go to/from the the marina a bit north. 

If I was to bring Touché here it would take 5 days. A 30 would only take 3 
days. I can't get Touché under the ICW bridges at Navarre Beach or Fort Walton. 
Similarly, I can't get under the East Pass bridge coming in from the gulf at 
Destin. 

I'd have to transit all the way to Panama City, enter St. Andrews Bay then come 
back west via the ICW to get into Chocotowatchee Bay. That's an extra 2 days. 

Friend of mine traded his Beneteau 47 for an Island Packet 485. Now he can't 
get under the Pensacola Beach bridge to sail Santa Rosa Sound, some really 
prime sailing waters. 

So, there are some disadvantages to a bigger boat. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, La

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Martec Folding Prop

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Just keep in mind you can only rebuild a Martec 2 times. So a Martec has 3 
lives; original, rebuild 1; rebuild 2 then dumpster. 

Dennis C.
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Stus-List Stanchion inserts

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Speaking of making sure the holes in the stanchions are smooth so the
lifelines don't get chafed, anybody know where to get those little plastic
inserts or come up with a good solution for this?  Like flared SS tubing,
etc.?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List bonding strap question

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Marine bonding wire should be green, AWG8, 6 or 4.

http://www.awcwire.com/mfg/alpha/product/dearborn-bonding-marine-wire

>From your handy dandy C&C resource site:  <
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/wiring/wiring.htm>

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




On Sun, Jul 13, 2014 at 7:52 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am in need of a bonding conductor for both my engine block and mast.
> Engine block strap is corroded to the point of dust. Mast strap is missing.
>
>
>
> The boat contains braided tinned copper straps with nice big ring ends to
> fit over the keel bolts. I have been able to find braided flat straps but
> no termination hardware. Does anyone here have experience with that? I have
> lots of experience terminating standard stranded wire but never braided
> straps. Is there a source for purchasing pre-terminated straps of varying
> length?
>
>
>
> Skip
>
> 1974 C&C 33 ¾ ton
>
> Portsmouth, RI
>
>
>
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Stus-List Got mildew?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have a Nicro solar vent in the head.  The deck around the vent is prone
to mildew.  Only place on the boat where mildew seems to thrive.

I usually scrub it with Soft Scrub with bleach.  Does the job but I didn't
like the abrasion on the nonskid gelcoat.  I've also used Roll Off and
other marine cleaners.

Well, today I tried Clorox Scrubbing Bubbles Foaming Bleach bathroom
cleaner on it.  All I can say is WOW!!  Simply squirted it on, waited 5-10
minutes and then thoroughly washed it off.  Mildew POOF!  GONE!  Deck is
white.

Probably need to make sure the stuff doesn't get on the painted topsides.
Since it foams, it doesn't move too much but it sure did the job.

Must have an activator in it similar to Jomax.  Jomax is an activator for
bleach used to clean houses.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Holding Tank issues;

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Go here:  https://www.mail-archive.com/cnc-list@cnc-list.com/

There is a search field at the top.

Dennis C.


On Mon, Jul 14, 2014 at 9:50 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Could someone refer me to the Archives (or other reference) where the
> holding tank matters were discussed? I have discovered a leak in the tank
> which allows liquid seepage into the bilge, (and at 94 degrees,
> well...ugh!); the volume is very minimal, so I am hoping to do some sort of
> repair rather than a replacement, if possible. Any suggestions or ideas
> welcome Many thanks,
>
>  Richard
>
> 1985 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 584
>
>
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
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Stus-List Stanchion inserts for lower lifeline - older models - FOUND!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I finally located inserts to fit the middle hole in lifeline stanchions.
Some of mine are gone leaving a rough edged hole in the metal.

They're Heyco SB-437-5 snap bushings.  Heyco part number 2044 (white) and
2043 (black) .  The specs are:

Mounting hole size: 0.437 inches (7/16)
Inside diameter: 0.312 inches (5/16)
Length (or depth): 0.406
Head or flange diameter:  0.531 inches

Amazon.com has the black ones:  $10 + shipping for a pack of 250.

The white ones were a bit harder to locate unless you want a quantity of
15,000.  :)  However, it turns out they are a common item used in antique
and vintage lamp restoration.

So, go to http://www.grandbrass.com/search.cfm and type "BG101W" in the
search window.  They're $0.20 a piece.

Or they're on eBay $1.00 for a lot of 10.  Search eBay for "200883492362".
I just bought some from this seller.

As I recall, hand swaged lifeline fittings will go through these with a
little "coaxing".

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Senders email address in From field

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Remember the Steve Martin movie, "The Jerk", where he gets the new phone
book and yells "the new phone book is here" and his name is in it?  Well,
your names aren't in the phone book.  :)

Dennis C.


On Tue, Jul 15, 2014 at 3:00 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think the system has become unpredictable. I seem to recall Stu saying
> Yahoo had something to do with it...??
>
> Rich
>
> > On Jul 15, 2014, at 12:23, "Ronald B. Frerker" 
> wrote:
> >
> > Interesting.  Note below, mine shows "Rick Knowles via CnC-List" and
> then the list address.  However, when I reply, note that the list and
> Rich's address populate the "to" field.
> > Must be a matter of our equipment or providers.
> > Ron
> > Wild Cheri
> > C&C 30-1
> > STL
> >
> > 
> > On Tue, 7/15/14, Rich Knowles via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Senders email address in From field
> > To: "Danny Haughey" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Date: Tuesday, July 15, 2014, 9:00 AM
> >
> > Ditto.
> >
> > Rich
> >
> >> On Jul 15, 2014, at 10:51, Danny Haughey
> > via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> >>
> >> Hi Stu,
> >>
> >> Actually every email
> > I get simply shows "C&C List" in the from
> > field.
> >>
> >> I do
> > however get both email addresses to populate when I hit
> > reply.
> >>
> >> Just an
> > FYI
> >>
> >> Danny
> >> Lolita
> >> 1973 Viking
> > 33
> >> Westport Point, MA
> >>
> >>
> >> -- Original Message --
> >> From: "Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List"
> > 
> >> To: "Stu" ,
> > 
> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Senders email
> > address in From field
> >> Date: Tue, 15 Jul
> > 2014 10:23:15 -0300
> >>
> >> Thank You Stu
> >>
> >> Did not realize both sender and list were
> > included in reply.  That is a
> >> great
> > feature
> >>
> >> Mike
> >>
> >> -Original
> > Message-
> >> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> > On Behalf Of Stu
> >> via CnC-List
> >> Sent: Tuesday, July 15, 2014 9:39 AM
> >> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> >> Subject: Re: Stus-List Senders email
> > address in From field
> >>
> >> Mike and others
> >>
> >> When an email is sent by a subscriber to
> > the list, the email From Line
> >> contains
> > the sender's name and "via CnC List".  This
> > way you know who is
> >> sending the email
> > and it is coming from the List.
> >>
> >> If you reply to the message, the to line
> > will include the original
> >> sender's
> > name plus the CnC List.  That way you can send a reply to
> > just
> >> the sender or the list or both --
> > just delete who you don't want.
> >>
> >> I think it is a good idea to know who is
> > sending the message before I
> >> even read
> > it or the subject line.
> >>
> >> Stu
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > ___
> >> This List is provided by the C&C Photo
> > Album
> >>
> >> Email
> > address:
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >> To change your list preferences, including
> > unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> >> page
> > at:
> >> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >>
> >
> >>
> >>
> > ___
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> > Album
> >>
> >> Email
> > address:
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> > unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
> >>
> > http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> >>
> >>
> >>
> > ___
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> > Album
> >>
> >> Email
> > address:
> >> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> >> To change your list preferences, including
> > unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
> >>
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> >>
> >
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> >
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Re: Stus-List Genoa/Jib Sheet diameter on a 30-1, 7/16 or 1/2"?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I use 3/8 VPC on my  35-1.  Dropped down from 7/16 StaSet.

No reason to use 1/2 inch.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Wed, Jul 16, 2014 at 10:56 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
>
> Replacing the 135% furling genoa sheets on a 30-1 used only for cruising.
> Have had 1/2". The admiral likes the solid red and green colors available
> for Samson Trophy Braid but for some reason they only offer those color
> options up to 7/16". At 1/2" they switch to flecked white. Any experience
> with the 7/16" trophy braid re soft on not so young hands?
>
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> Siskiwit Bay Marina
> Lake Superior
>
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Stus-List USB ports and users

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I recently installed a Blue Sea 1016 dual usb port at my navstation for
charging our cellphones.  (The Admiral has an unlimited data plan and
Pandora on her phone.  We have a stereo that accepts MP3 aux so we use it a
lot.)

Anyway, I was wandering through a discount store and saw usb powered fans
for cooling laptops.  Curious, I googled usb fans.  There are a LOT of usb
powered fans out there.

Look at some of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Mobile-Fan-External-Cooling/dp/B00080G0BK/ref=zg_bs_3015416011_2

http://www.amazon.com/Daffodil-UFN01-Switch-Speed-Adjustable/dp/B002C3IOZG/ref=zg_bs_3015416011_12

There are several muffin style fans for those who want to install a fan in
their companionway hatch boards and hook it up to their batteries via a usb
port.

I found a usb powered refrigerator that cools one can of soda.

How about this usb powered aquarium?
http://www.smarthome.com/95640/Fascinations-FISHQ1-USB-Desktop-Aquarium/p.aspx

Just opening up some options for the list.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Bridge 1 Beneteau 0

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

See:

<
http://www.nola.com/news/index.ssf/2014/07/sailboat_demasted_after_collis.html#incart_river
>

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Cabin fans

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I have two Caframos and like them. Mount them with the add on clips and plug 
them in via cigarette lighter plug.  Stow them when not in use. 

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 21, 2014, at 5:37 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I recently added a Caframo Bora. It does a great job, has swivel and tilt, 
> and draws almost nothing for power, even compared to my other trusty Caframo. 
> folds flat against the ceiling when not in use. 
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
>> On 7/21/2014 5:58 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:
>> I am also shopping for fans.  Like the Caframo Sirroco 807 cause I can mount 
>> one in the vee berth and it can swing around and actually direct air from 
>> the forward hatch toward the main cabin.  Then swing back flat against the 
>> bulhead out of sight.  Haven't bought one so far but I'm close.  anybody 
>> know any problems w these?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Chuck
>> Resolute
>> 1990 C&C 34R
>> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
> 
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Re: Stus-List Cabin fans

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Made me think of working on the boat in spring here in Louisiana.  We have
an indigenous insect called love bugs.  They hook together butt to butt and
fly in swarms.  They aren't good fliers.  They apparently taste bad and
have no natural enemies except the grill, windshields and hoods of vehicles
traveling at speed.  For easy bug removal, many here spray Pam on the
fronts of their cars during love bug season.

They seem attracted to the color white and solvent smells like paint,
gelcoat, epoxy, etc.  I was trying to paint my steering pedestal and
thought a fan would help.  NOT!  Much like Wally's experience, The love
bugs would get sucked onto the fan, get chopped in to pieces and get spit
out from the blades.  Just disgusting.

Dennis C.




On Tue, Jul 22, 2014 at 8:58 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks, Wal. With you, David, and Dennis, among others, all suggesting the
> Caframos it's a pretty easy decision.
> Bees hitting the fan...what an odd problem to have. Hope the bees are
> buzzing elsewhere and the sun is shining on you.
>
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> > On Jul 22, 2014, at 20:52, Wally Bryant via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >
> > Andrew Burton wrote:
> >> Wal, which model caframo fan? I need to install a few in Peregrine and I
> >> was thinking of going with the Hella Turbos, but if you like the
> caframo...
> >> Andy
> >
> >
> > Andy - I have been using the cheapest Caframo, model 747.  Mainly
> because that all I can get.   They make others with grill enclosures, but I
> don't know if they move as much air.  I also can't recall how it compares
> with the air flow of the Hella.  It's all about moving air, and the Caframo
> definitely moves air.
> >
> > Like I said, I run fans 24x7, so burning them up isn't a reflection on
> the quality of the motor.  The Caframo only pulls .5 amps at high speed,
> and that's important when on the hook.
> >
> > To grill or not to grill.  Grills collect dust, and can make it hard to
> clean the blades.  The fan without an enclosing grill must be securely
> mounted, because if you knock it over you'll burn out the motor.  Duh.  The
> Caframo without an enclosure also really hurts your head when you walk into
> it, or sit up in bed at 2 am.  However, those blades are pretty soft and
> don't actually draw blood, and after the initial eff word I laugh because
> it's my own fault.  Duh.
> >
> > The only real problem I have the non-enclosed fan is bees.  Really.  If
> a bee flies behind the fan and is sucked into the vortex, it usually gets
> smacked by the blade and then propelled at high velocity directly at me.
>  Ticked off and ready to sting the first thing it hits.
> >
> > Wal
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
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> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> >
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Re: Stus-List Sails to Donate

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

http://sailsforsustenance.org/where-to-donate-sails/

Dennis C.


On Wed, Jul 23, 2014 at 2:02 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Does anyone know of an organization (preferably charity) that accepts old
> sails as donations? I’d love to find one in the northeast that would be
> willing to come and pick them up. Have quiet a few old headsails and a
> couple of spinnakers that need new homes.
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
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Re: Stus-List tight reaching

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Actually, you might mean you tried outboard sheeting, not a Barber hauler.
On Touche' we go to outboard sheeting very quickly to open the slot.

As soon as the headsail clew lifts above the lifelines and the jibsheet
touches the lifelines, we're rigging a snatch block to the toe rail and
attaching the outboard sheet.  Our outboard sheet has a snapshackle for
easy attachment to and release from the headsail clew.  We lead it to our
secondary winches.  We leave the jibsheet inactive on the primaries ready
to go if we need to trim in to go up.

We locate the snatch block slightly forward of the jib car.

We ease luff tensions to move drafts aft.  Set the vang to keep the top
batten parallel to centerline.  Leech tell tales should be streaming aft.

In the heavier air conditions you described, I'd be thinking about trimming
the main with the vang to maintain heel.  Twist off the top to keep the
boat on its feet and the keel lifting.  Play the traveler if you experience
weather helm.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Jul 27, 2014 at 12:01 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I recently had a mid-distance race in which a majority of the race was
> tight reaching in flat water, 10-15 breeze.   We had our heavy #1 up.  A
> number of boats (C&C39, C&C38, Sabre 36, Tarten Ten) worked up on us pretty
> well in those conditions.   I obviously need to trim the sails differently
> and am looking for suggestions.
>
>
>
> We mostly eased the sheet and moved the car forward, but we did try barber
> hauling.  We did not try bringing the clew right out to the toe rail.
>
>
>
> Any thoughts or suggestions is appreciated.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Pete
>
> 1984 C&C 37
>
>
>
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>
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Stus-List Joker valve war!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I finally swapped out the joker valve in Touche's head because it was
leaking back.  Didn't leak much.  Just some of the water between the bowl
and the anti-siphon loop.

As usual, it had become scaled up.  I threw the old one in some vinegar and
most of the scale dissolved but the rubber was so distorted it was dumpster
material.

I coated the new joker valve with TefGel hoping to get more life out of
it.  I think Peggy Hall, the head mistress recommends Super Lube for
heads.

Also, I read that throwing some vinegar in the head routinely minimizes
scale build up.

This really isn't a big thing for me.  I get the valves wholesale for under
$10 and changing one is only a 10 minute job.  But I'd sure like to skip it
altogether.

Any other tricks?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Stainless Grab Rails & New Stanchion

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Steve,

The guys at http://www.whitewatermarineinc.com/ can do both but South Shore
may be a better bet for the stanchion.

Walk down your pier to the J30 "Jalapeno" and look at the SS handrails on
it.  I had whitewater make those for me to install.  Sent them the old teak
ones for a pattern.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Joker valve war / Head reliability

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I've had a Jabsco for 14 years.  3-4 years ago, I put the Twist and Lock
pump assembly on it.  Other than the joker valve scaling up, it has worked
well.

FWI, regardless of brand of head, my advice to all is to consider replacing
the entire pump assembly rather than rebuilding an existing one.  For most
manual heads, the cost differential isn't great but you get better
results.  You don't know if the old pump cylinder is scored or if other
parts not included in the rebuild kit are OK.  Plus, it's quicker and
easier to replace the pump assembly than to install a rebuild kit.

For instance, a pump assembly for the Jabsco is $82 on amazon.com (
http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-29040-3000-Marine-Manual-Assembly/dp/B001794BS0).
A rebuild kit is $57 (
http://www.amazon.com/Jabsco-29045-2000-Marine-Manual-Service/dp/B000O8D38E
).

Is 30-45 minutes of your time worth $25 and the risk of a botched rebuild?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 10:35 AM, Tim Goodyear  wrote:

> Rebuilding heads seems to be a popular activity at this time of year; I
> replaced all valves in my Headmate head last weekend.  It's not a bad job,
> but I always remember why I bought the stubby Phillips #2 screwdriver when
> I do it.  The previous weekend I dumped four gallons of vinegar into the
> system to clear scale off.  It worked for the joker valve, but I was still
> having issues with the pump losing prime and not drying easily without
> holding the valve leaver down.  Once apart, it was pretty obvious why - the
> metal backing washer from one of the inlet valve had corroded off the
> rubber piece, and while I was there I just changed all the parts that were
> in the service kit.
>
> Joker valves seem to be common across head designs, and a necessary evil,
> but I am fed up with having to rebuild the pump on the Headmate once or
> twice a year, so am planning to replace it this winter.  Can anyone share
> experiences with their heads (ours gets very light use, strictly no
> solids)?  I am considering the Jabsco Twist n Lock or the Raritan PHC.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tim
>
>
>>
>>
>
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Looks like a fishing expedition to me.

Can get newer and longer C&C at 1/2 that price.

Dennis C.


On Thu, Jul 31, 2014 at 7:41 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/boa/4585762460.html
>
>
>
> Nice
>
> Expensive
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba*
>
> *Coquina*
>
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Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C - now restoring old boats

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

It's rare to make a "profit" on an old boat.  Basically, you need to buy
one at salvage value that only needs cosmetic work, do the minimum and sell
it quickly before dockage fees eat any potential profit.

After Hurricane Katrina there were scores of "totaled" boats here in
Louisiana.  There are several of us here that work on boats and can do most
repairs needed.  How many of these boats did we buy?  Zero.  We knew we'd
end up working for $5 an hour to fix them.

Most went to people who wanted one to live on.  They probably did nothing
except tow the boat to a cheap marina, put a window air conditioner in it
and live on it.  Some went to new owners who wanted to fix them up and keep
them.  The rest were stripped, cut up and "dumpstered".

You restore an old boat for the joy of doing it, because you enjoy it,
because it's a passion.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 9:59 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the offer, Joe. You never know with these old A4s.
>
>
>
> I’m sure you are right about the estimate but I have some wiggle room
> before I get to the value of the boat. The PO was planning on salvaging the
> rig and crushing the hull so you can imagine what I might have paid. The
> boat looked tough but most of the issues (and there are a lot) are
> cosmetic.  After three weeks we are ready to get her in the water and do
> some sailing before the season is over. I have spent so far just over $1500
> and a LOT of elbow grease. My wife is a very good seamstress and she is
> willing to do the cushions including adding some back rests. We already
> have the materials in hand (Sunbrella). I am not using Awlgrip, just some
> decent deck and epoxy paint. The hull is in good shape and I will not be
> completely stripping the old paint. It is in good shape, just a little beat
> up and the wrong color. I am keeping in mind that this is not ever going to
> be a show boat. Just making it look good and feel good for two to spend a
> weekend on board. If sails come into the picture that number goes out the
> door. We will see where it all ends up but I am confident at this point
> that my efforts on this boat will (for the first time in my life) probably
> come back to me when I sell her for a bigger boat (the real upgrade). My
> guess is that I could have at least tripled my purchase price without doing
> anything but what fun is that?
>
>
>
> Best
>
> Skip
>
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C - now painting topsides

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I second Russ' caution.  If you're not stripping the old paint, try a test
spot first.  Paints contain solvents which may not be compatible with other
paints.

When we painted Touche' a few years ago, I prepped the hull with degreaser
then 320 grit sandpaper.  We shot a test spot of Awlcraft.  It didn't stick
to the old paint and bubbled up where a second underlying paint had been
exposed.  I ended up stripping all the old layers of paint with a Hutchins
straight line sander.  Don't use a disc sander!

Even after stripping, it required 3 coats of high build primer to get good
results.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Fri, Aug 1, 2014 at 11:07 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>  Hi Burt (or is it Skip or Ship?),
>
> Be careful with the epoxy paint. Unless they've change remarkably in
> twenty years you will have a chaulking problem down the road.
>
> I had a deck cabin painted with epoxy on one boat and a mast on the other
> boat. Both of them started leaving a white residue after a 1/2 dozen years.
> The cabin would show on clothing (like after sitting on it) and the mast
> has a white mess at the base after a rain. (We live in a rain forest, south
> western Canada).
>
> On *Sweet *I spent the extra bucks (~$600) for all supplies, and went
> with 2-pot urethane that the Admiral & I put on, roll & tip for cockpit,
> deck and cabin.
>
> For an economical job go with the Rustoleum urethane and put the best
> primer you can underneath it. As you probably know, prep & primer is 80% of
> the job.
>
> Cheers, Russ
> *Sweet *35 mk-1
>
> (A4 replaced with a running take-out Yanmar diesel I got for $1500 seven
> years ago, but that's a whole 'nother topic :)
>
>
> At 07:59 AM 01/08/2014, you wrote:
>
> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>  boundary="=_NextPart_000_0519_01CFAD77.AF3D5720"
> Content-Language: en-us
>
> Thanks for the offer, Joe. You never know with these old A4s.
>
> I’m sure you are right about the estimate but I have some wiggle room
> before I get to the value of the boat. The PO was planning on salvaging the
> rig and crushing the hull so you can imagine what I might have paid. The
> boat looked tough but most of the issues (and there are a lot) are
> cosmetic. Â After three weeks we are ready to get her in the water and do
> some sailing before the season is over. I have spent so far just over $1500
> and a LOT of elbow grease. My wife is a very good seamstress and she is
> willing to do the cushions including adding some back rests. We already
> have the materials in hand (Sunbrella). I am not using Awlgrip, just some
> decent deck and epoxy paint. The hull is in good shape and I will not be
> completely stripping the old paint. It is in good shape, just a little beat
> up and the wrong color. I am keeping in mind that this is not ever going to
> be a show boat. Just making it look good and feel good for two to spend a
> weekend on board. If sails come into the picture that number goes out the
> door. We will see where it all ends up but I am confident at this point
> that my efforts on this boat will (for the first time in my life) probably
> come back to me when I sell her for a bigger boat (the real upgrade). My
> guess is that I could have at least tripled my purchase price without doing
> anything but what fun is that?
>
> Best
> Skip
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Roller-furled jib sheets and symmetrical spinnaker - now spinnaker and 35-III

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

The rule on Touche' is always drop on the same side as the hoist, period!
It's not hard even if you're on the opposite gybe than the hoist.  Pop the
jaw, lower the pole end, and haul the guy as you ease the sheet and
halyard.  The chute should slide around the forestay and across the
foredeck.  Practice it a few times, you'll get it.  An added bonus is the
crew will still be on the high side of the boat.

The other choice it to try to set up for a starboard gybe approach to the
mark, then you'll be set for a port douse.  You also have rights.  Having
rights during a chute douse is a good thing.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Sun, Aug 3, 2014 at 11:23 AM, Indigo via CnC-List 
wrote:

>
> Thanks for all the help on this.
>
> I have another question - specifically for 35-III owners who fly a
> symmetrical spinnaker
>
> I usually do my first set with the pole to starboard and the chute going
> up using my only spin halyard which is on the port side - and the chute
> going up under the jib (starboard tack for a port rounding).  After an odd
> number of gybes, I am dousing on the chute on the starboard side- with the
> halyard now over the top of the forestay ( on the 35-III the standard
> halyard sheaves are in line and not above the forestay tang). On more than
> one occasion, we have had great difficulty dousing the chute because of the
> way the halyard is being led over the forestay - potentially very
> dangerous. I am typically leaving the douse until I am almost at the
> leeward mark and have therefor started rounding up by the time we start
> bringing the kite down. I have to be doing something wrong!
>
> Jonathan
>
>
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
>
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Stus-List eBay Scores!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Touche' had anodized alloy primaries (Barlow 28's), secondaries (Barlow
26's) and cabin top winches (Barient 22's).  The bases for the secondaries
are losing some of the anodizing.  The alloy primaries had lost some teeth
on the inside of the drum but had been repaired.

Last year I replaced Touche's alloy Barlow 28 primaries with a pair of
chrome bronze Barlow 28's.  Found them on Craigslist in Seattle by using
claz.org.  Thanks to Martin D. for helping get them to me.

Well, the shiny chrome 28's made the other winches look kinda bad.  Been
looking for more chrome winches.  2 weekends ago I was probing eBay and
scored a pair of chrome bronze Barlow 26's.  A day later I scored a pair of
stainless Barient 22's.

So now Touche' will have all chrome or stainless winches.  All for under
$1100.  Just have to be patient and keep searching.

Should make the boat look much nicer.  Sweet!  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Rub rail options

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

There are lots of options for rub rails.  I'd be looking at one of the
systems where you install a plastic track then snap the rubber part on it.
They have end fittings if you need them.  Here's one site:

http://www.mate-usa.com/en/product_category/rub-rail-pvc

Here's a video of the process:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZI23aOgRRc8

There are other manufacturers.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Tue, Aug 5, 2014 at 9:14 PM, Spencer Johnson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> James and Wally...The rubrail on my LF38 is pretty beat up.  I agree that
> it is under the toe rail and would be a big whup to replace.
> What about just cutting it off flush and adding a standard rub rail?
> Probably one of those vibrating cutters would make short work of it
> especially after you got started.
> The question is:  What do you put over it and how do you attach it?  The
> standard motor boat rub rails are a channel with a replaceable insert
> screwed into the fiberglass.  With maybe some butyl bedding
> it might be a reasonable enhancement?
> So, what is wrong with this option?  ...not that I would look forward
> toit..
>
> Spencer Johnson
> 1984 C&C LF 38 "Alegria" #165
> ~~~_/) * 
> Mount Prospect, IL
>
> >James - I believe that vinyl rub rail is part of the deck/hull joint, so
> >replacing it would be next to impossible.
>
> >Wal
>
> >you wrote:
> >> I am debating whether it is worth the labour to attempt to remove the
> paint
> >>and shine up the existing rub rail, or to go ahead and replace.
>
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I quit tracking $$ when I went north of $20K.  That was years ago. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 6, 2014, at 6:35 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Ha! I do keep that kind of accounting on all the money that I have and will 
> be spending on our boat over the years. I can afford a new(er) boat.
> 
> I’m just wondering why in the friggin’ hell I haven’t pulled the trigger on 
> that option...
> 
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
> 
>> On Aug 6, 2014, at 1:56 PM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> If I kept that kind of accounting for my business I could probably afford a
>> bigger boat :(
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny
>> Haughey via CnC-List
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2014 1:48 PM
>> To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
>> 
>> OMG...
>> 
>> If i kept that that kind of accounting foe my boat I'd probably want to
>> shoot myself!!!  LOL
>> 
>> There is LOTS of things I conveniently forget that I had to pay for!!!  LOL
>> 
>> Danny
>> Lolita
>> 1973 Viking 33
>> Westport Point, MA
>> 
>> -- Original Message --
>> From: Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List big $$$ used C&C
>> Date: Wed, 06 Aug 2014 17:39:48 +
>> 
>> Read it and weep:   or read it
>> and laugh.  Or laugh and weep.  Or drink tequila and don't worry about it...
>> 
>> The amazing thing is that I did most of the work myself, and very little of
>> it was cosmetic.  That was intentional.  The boat is structurally sound
>> enough to survive anything that *I'm* structurally sound enough to survive,
>> but if thieves are cruising by in a panga trying to decide which boat to
>> break into, they'll probably choose somebody else.
>> 
>> BTW, the boat that started this thread is not a neglected boat in any book.
>> 
>> Wal
>> 
>> you wrote:
>>> Fair warning:  You'll spend far more then you think refurbishing a 
>>> neglected boat, even buying used stuff,  being creative with eBay, and 
>>> working on it yourself .
>> 
>> 
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

We are the C&C's.  You will be assimilated.  Resistance is futile.

83 of 354


On Wed, Aug 6, 2014 at 8:51 PM, Rich Knowles via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> If you own a boat, you're one of us...
>
> Rich
>
> Rich Knowles
> IFDS 2014 Worlds
> Support Chair
>
> > On Aug 6, 2014, at 22:46, Ebay via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> > Ok folks.  I'm an accountant.   Even by my standards you people are
> nuts
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> > ___
> > This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> >
> > Email address:
> > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> > To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of
> page at:
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> >
>
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Re: Stus-List Re-Bedding / Filling & Drilling w_Epoxy

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Kevin,

I keep this in my maintenance file.  I just copy and paste to emails.  I
just overbored and filled my cockpit coaming for some new winches using the
method below.

Here's the soup to nuts way to best protect your boat if the penetration is
through cored deck.  If it's not cored, just do the chamfering.



1. Remove and mark all hardware as to location and orientation (i.e, port,
forward, etc.)



2. Overbore each hole 1-2 drill sizes larger.



3. Tape underside or stick some Play Doh in hole



4.  Mix a batch of West Systems epoxy with SLOW hardener.



5. Inject epoxy in hole with syringe.  Insert tip of syringe to bottom of
hole and inject epoxy from bottom to completely fill hole.  Wiggle the tip
of the syringe around a bit to ensure good coating of hole.  Then suck the
epoxy out.  Repeat for each hole.  Alternate method: use a Q-Tip to coat
the hole.



6. If the epoxy hasn't begun to really kick, mix in some thickener, West
Systems 403 or 404, thouroughly mix and inject into each hole as in No. 5
above.  Allow to cure.



7.  Redrill holes using hardware as template.  If rebedding genoa tracks,
enlarge the holes in the backing plate because they probably won't line up.



8. Using a cone shaped grinding stone in a drill, chamfer the square edge
off the hole at the deck.  This will let the caulk form a gasket around the
bolt at the deck.



9. Rebed with 4200, 4000UV or Lifeseal.  Just before bolt or screw bottoms
out, back it off and retighten a couple of times.  This will coat the
fastener with caulk at the deck.  If a bolt, tighten to just short of fully
tight.  Allow to cure 24 hours.



10.  After cure, have a helper hold the bolt from turning and fully tighten
the nut.


If you're doing handrails and they're screwed in from underneath, it might
be better to overbore 1 drill size and simply coat with unthickened epoxy.
It will be difficult to match the angle of the hole when you rebore.  Also
chamfer the hole in the handrail.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
mandeville, LA


On Fri, Aug 8, 2014 at 10:41 AM, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Happy weekend all,
>
>
>
> I am going to start re-bedding some hardware on our boat. I’m going with
> butyl tape, but wanted to see what folks were using for “filling and
> drilling” holes in the deck/core with epoxy, etc. Is *Git Rot*
> appropriate for this job? I am looking for something easy to work with for
> when I have a spare hour or two, i.e. less mixing/disposing cleanup the
> better.
>
>
>
> Send suggestions and / or links to YouTube videos or other “How To” sites.
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Kevin
>
> 30-2
>
> PDX
>
>
> Kevin Driscoll
> Portland,  Oregon
> 503  //  875  //  3493
>
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Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove fuels. Best?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Lots of discussions, disagreements, personal opinions on this subject.  One
place where camping, backpacking and marine recreation overlap.

Denatured alcohol will work, but is it REALLY the best bargain?  How
quickly will it heat your food?  What you're looking for is $$/BTU or
heating efficiency AND clean burning.

You might find this video enlightening:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mt69fbNhCgs

The video compares several alcohol fuels.  Granted, the comparison is done
in a non-pressurized stove but the comparison methodology seems fairly
sound.  The results were defined in terms of economy ($$$) for bringing
water to a boil.

In short, denatured alcohol performed poorly in terms of economic
efficiency.  The best performing fuel was an automotive gas antifreeze,
HEET in the yellow container.  HEET is primarily methanol.  I suppose you
can always go to a truck stop and get air brake antifreeze.

Unfortunately, no actual stove fuel like Origo or Tru-Heat was tested.

Alcohol stoves are designed to burn ethanol (ethyl alcohol).
Unfortunately, you can't find 100% ethanol.  Ethanol must be "denatured" by
adding methanol to avoid liquor taxation.  Nigel Calder says you need a
minimum of 95% ethanol.

Further, there doesn't appear to be any standard for denatured alcohol.
Make sure any fuel you buy is labeled for use in alcohol stoves.  Some
denatured alcohols may be as little as 50% alcohol.

Pressure alcohol stoves are more fuel sensitive than non-pressurized
alcohol stoves because of the orifice.  If the fuel contains oils or
impurities, the orifice may become plugged.  Before you burn any new fuel
in a pressurized alcohol stove, burn several ounces in a metal dish and
check for residue after the burn completes.

Make sure any fuel you buy is labeled for use in alcohol stoves.  Read the
label.  Look at the MSDS.  There doesn't appear to be any standard for
denatured alcohol.  Some denatured alcohols may be as little as 50% alcohol.

So, you might actually spend more $$ or incur more maintenance issues by
using a cheap denatured alcohol than a fuel formulated specially for
alcohol stoves.

For the record, Touche' has a pressure alcohol stove.  The Admiral and I
use it often.  I tried big box store denatured alcohol (labeled for stove
fuel) and it worked but I personally prefer the Origo stove fuel.  Just
seems to work better.  Might be my imagination or the fumes.  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 9:36 AM, Burt Stratton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This my first go-around with alcohol stoves. Seems to work very nicely.
> Cleaned it up filled it and brewed a big pot of coffee in no time. Is there
> any reason not to use plain old denatured alcohol instead of stove cooking
> fuel?
>
>
>
> Skip
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Alcohol stove

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Alcohols are one of the larger families of chemicals.  The two simplest
alcohols are methanol, C H
3O
H
 and ethanol, C
2H
5OH.

Methanol is also known as methyl alcohol, methyl hydrate, hydroxymethane,
methyl hydroxide, methylic alcohol, methylol, wood alcohol, wood naptha or
wood spirits.

Ethanol is also known as ethyl alcohol.

Ethanol is the alcohol in liquor.  Methanol is the most common denaturing
agent for ethanol.

The only other alcohol of any significant use in the marine industry is
polyvinyl alcohol or PVA which is used as a mold release agent in
fiberglass molding.

Yeah, I know, more than any of you wanted to know.  Had to find something
to justify that expensive education years ago.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




On Tue, Aug 12, 2014 at 10:34 AM, JOHN D IRVIN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> How is methyl hydrate different?
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Years ago when I had A4 in first boat it would run for a while then die. An old 
time sailor told me to try to put my hand on the coil. If it was too hot to 
touch the coil had an internal short. This could result in a lower voltage 
spark, hence your fouled plugs. 

I installed the Indigo electronic ignition and coil.  Never had issues again. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2014, at 10:33 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Alright, the saga continues.
> 
> We went for a sea trial Sunday after the changes, i.e. Vent line cleared, 
> filters changed, clamps tightened.  The engine ran great all the way to 
> Cuttyhunk. I probably ran it about 3 hours. Two of those hours I ran it a 
> little harder than I normally do after having read Don M's reasons for having 
> black sooty spark plugs. I thought my problems were solved.
> 
> On our way home from cuttyhunk, We motored out the harbor and decided that, 
> because the wind was a little light, we would motor home to run the engine 
> some more. 50 minutes into our ride home, the same thing, only a bit slower. 
> the whole, slow, stall happened over maybe a minute or two. Some sputter, 
> then run normal, a little more sputter, then normal and then a slow stall.
> 
> We then sailed home and into the mooring field. This is actually a benefit of 
> the engine troubles, I've been a bit intimidated about sailing onto the mouth 
> of the river due to the current and very tight channel flanked by shoals and 
> some pretty ominous looking rocks. I've now had to sail into the harbor twice 
> over this last weekend. At one point we were probably doing 4 or 4.5knts 
> through the water but only 1 to 1.5knts over the ground fighting that 
> current. On one side of the boat it a big, rocky cliff and the other shoal. 
> it was a little adrenalin pumping! Anyway, the approach to our mooring was 
> dead, head to wind, along with the current in the same direction, I lost 
> forward motion under sail and started the engine. She started right up and we 
> motored onto the mooring without incident.
> 
> So, safely moored, I pulled the vent tube, it was clear. I then went below 
> and pulled a spark plug and it was all black and sooty again after maybe 4 
> hours running time.
> 
> I used the Moyer rebuild kit on the carb that is on there now. I'm not sure 
> but, I think I changed the main jet to the moyer recomended one at that time. 
> I think it came with the rebuild kit.
> 
> My earlier idling issues seemed to have been solved by swapping out the carb 
> that came with the exchange engine for the one I rebuilt off the original 
> engine and had just sitting around as a spare. I think what I would like to 
> do now is, clean up the carb that came with the exchange engine. and swap 
> them back out. I'll then replace the plugs and run it some more. Unless you 
> guys think I should maybe try another path forward.
> 
> Danny
> 
> 
>  
> P.S.  Cuttyhunk was Amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List block lubricant

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I flush blocks, rope clutches, etc liberally with water. The only lube I would 
be tempted to use on Harken blocks is McLube.  

I use Superlube on slides and T-track things. 

Don't forget to flush your furler drum and swivel with water at LEAST annually. 

T-9 is for electrical use, not lube applications. 

If you want to spray a corrosion inhibitor on blocks, try Corrosion Block. It 
doesn't last long but it doesn't seem to leave a residue. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2014, at 6:05 PM, Michael Brown via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Generally with blocks that have ball / roller / needle bearings you do
> not want a slippery lubricant. The blocks work by having the bearings
> roll not slide. A proper grease / wax has the property of carrying away
> debris, preventing corrosion and leaving a tiny film between the elements
> without causing them to slide.
> 
> Most lubricant when rolled over in the presence of water will end up
> mixing with the water, the result being aptly described as "goopy".
> So oiling or greasing an open bearing ( no seals ) is never likely to work.
> 
> Michael Brown
> Windburn
> C&C 30-1
> 
> 
> Date: Wed, 13 Aug 2014 19:04:26 + 
> From: Wally Bryant  
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List block lubricant   (and goodbye Robin 
> Williams) 
> Message-ID: <53ebb6ba.70...@wbryant.com> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed 
> 
> T9. 
> 
> Yeah, I've seen that goopy result.  I don't use it any more.  It might 
> be a great corrosion prohibiter, but my opinion is still out on that as 
> well. 
> 
> The only thing I trust is a good fresh water rinse. 
> 
> Back about 220 years ago I was a scuba instructor working a 90 foot boat 
> in the Caribbean, and I asked the Captain/Owner why he was always 
> heading into squalls.  'Free fresh water rinse,' he said.  I thought I 
> understood, but really didn't, because I didn't own my own boat. 
> Later, I was sailing with a guy who knew everything, (including how to 
> sail my boat,) and at the end of the day I said 'well, it's about time 
> you did something, why don't you wash the boat down while I walk down 
> the dock and talk with Cheryl.'  He showed up a few minutes later and 
> said, 'Do you mean you want me to hose off everything that's metal?' and 
> I said 'no, I want you to hose off everything that's BOAT.' 
> 
> And even later, I hadn't seen rain (i.e. water falling from the sky) in 
> three years, and went a little wild during a rainstorm, and blasted 
> Clapton's 'Let It Rain' along with Pete Townsend's 'Rain' and a few 
> other rain oriented tunes through my cockpit speakers, while I danced on 
> the foredeck. 
> 
> Onto every boat, a little rain must fall.  It cleans the rig. 
> 
> And even later than that, I sailed with a guy who was a certified 
> expert.  He told me to oil the bearings in my Harken Mark I furler.   
> That's the last thing you want to do.  But you really can't tell experts 
> what to do.  All those bearings need is a fresh water rinse, but if they 
> get sticky it *might* be because someone cranked the halyard on the jib 
> too tight.  It must have happened while I was asleep, because when I 
> slacked off on the halyard about two inches the furler suddenly started 
> working again. 
> 
> Wal 
> 
> PS.  Nanu Nanu, dude. 
> 
> 
> 
> Pete wrote: 
> > We just finished a week long distance race series and during the race I 
> > noticed that the blocks that we lube with T-9 become pretty gunked up.  We 
> > cleaned with a solvent, rinsed with soapy water and fresh water, then 
> > re-applied.   Same result after a day or two.  Anyone have similar 
> > experience? 
> 
> 
> -- 
> s/v Stella Blue 
> www.wbryant.com 
> ___
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Re: Stus-List Searchable archive?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Use Google and add *"cnc-list"* to your search.  To clarify, cnc-list needs
to be in quotes.  Otherwise you will get lots of hits referring to cnc
stuff.

For example, to search for stuffing box posts use the search string:
stuffing box "cnc-list"

Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 8:58 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I think the best way is to do a google (or your favorite search engine)
> search and add the term site:cnc-list.com
>  after your search
> phrase.
>
> Like stuffing box site:cnc-list.com
> 
>
> that should return anything from the cnc site that would have to do with
> stuffing boxes
>
> Danny
> 1985 Tartan 40
> Massachusetts
>
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: Dave Syer via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Dave Syer 
> Subject: Stus-List Searchable archive?
> Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2015 09:53:32 -0400
>
> Hi All,
>
> I am new to the list and don't want to waste anyone's time asking
> questions that have been answered in the past.   I see that archived
> messages can be found at :
>
> http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/
>
> However these do not appear to be searchable.  Is there a way to search
> past posts/discussions by topic or keyword?  Thanks.
>
> Dave
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Isn't it wonderful to have a great resource like cncphotoalbum.com?  The
diagram is under "Technical Info" then "Stability Diagram".  The direct
link is:

 .

To be picky, it looks like the LF 42 is stiffer.  Otherwise the 30 MK 1
gets it.

Also, since the site is a user supported resource, support can be given
at:



Dennis C.

On Mon, Sep 28, 2015 at 2:48 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Agreed. Somewhere in the archives there is a Dallenbach chart which shows
> the relative 'stiffness' of most of the early C&C's. It would be pretty
> useful in this selection. And the 30-1 is by itself.
>
> Gary
> 30-1 #593
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
> *To:* 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
> *Cc:* Della Barba, Joe 
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:52 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...
>
> The 30  MK I is supposedly the stiffest boat C&C made.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Burt
> Stratton via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:50 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Burt Stratton
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Recommendations Please...
>
>
>
> I have a 74’ 33-foot three quarter tonner, which I believe is the same
> hull and sail plan as the MK-1. I do believe my keel is longer, though. She
> draws 6’6” and the MK-1 is listed at 5’6”.  Layout is different but I don’t
> think that would have much effect on performance. It is a superbly stiff
> and stable ride on Narragansett Bay, which is not a lot different from
> Buzzards Bay. She handles 20kts easily…gusts, too - even close hauled and
> points extremely well.  I would recommend that boat any day. Something like
> that would also probably fit in the budget. I would trade mine for an MK-1
> just for the far more comfortable layout and headroom forward.
>
>
>
> Burt
>
> On the hard in Walpole, MA
>
> Waiting for paint and other projects
>
> Hoping for a spring launch
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *David via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, September 28, 2015 2:36 PM
> *To:* CNC CNC
> *Cc:* David
> *Subject:* Stus-List Recommendations Please...
>
>
>
> A good friend of mine would like to buy their first "big boat".  We sail
> out of Buzzards Bay which I affectionately call the "Washing Machine"
> resulting from the Bay's shallow water and strong afternoon S'Westerlies.
>
> Their budget is around 15K and because of the aforementioned washing
> machine, need a stiff boat around the 30-34' size.  In addition to size, if
> my memory is correct there are certain "Marques" within a specific size
> range (33?) which are stiffer than others and would be better suited to the
> area.
>
> So what size and what "Mark" version do you folks think would be
> appropriate?
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
>
> David F. Risch
> 1981 40-2
> (401) 419-4650 (cell)
> --
>
> Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2015 14:04:44 -0400
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Re; Boat names
> From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> CC: stevanpla...@gmail.com
>
> There's a C&C 40 here on Lake Ontario named "Vatican II
> "
> that's been for sale for a while. It's a centerboard model and nicely
> outfitted for cruising. Any connection?
>
> Has a big crucifix on both sides. Not really my cup of tea but unique
> anyway.
>
>
>
> Steve
>
> Suhana, C&C 32
>
> Toronto
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 6:00 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My dad met a fellow in Vancouver who sold him on the C&C 27...and the
> brand. The fellow's name was Mike Pope, so naturally enough, his boat was
> called Vatican.
>
> Andy
>
> C&C 40
>
> Peregrine
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 22, 2015 at 4:52 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My first boat, C&C 30MKI was named Trysail.  The previous owner sold
> Flying Scotts (I think) at one time so it was a play on words.  She still
> carries that name.
>
>
>
> My new boat, C&C 30 MKII, was named Lagniappe when I purchased her.  Talk
> about a mouth full and a triple repeat on the spelling when calling a
> bridge, marina, or vessel.  After the delivery trip North from Annapolis to
> Mystic I changed the name.  I got tired of repeating myself.  Didn't like
> the name myself, but anyone from New Orleans seemed to love it, reminded
> them of home.
>
>
>
> So I renamed my current boat HANUMAN.  Seems simple enough and I'm still
> amused that most folks can't pronounce it, nor spell it.  HA NEW MAN.
>
>
>
> Hanuman is a very prevalent character in the Ramayana and his picture is
> probably hanging on the wall in every Indian restaurant in the world.
> Millions of kids watch him in cartoo

Stus-List Sailing with main topping lift

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

A main topping lift serves two primary purposes: 1) opening the top of the
main to create more twist and 2) holding the boom up when the mainsail is
not hoisted.

In my opinion, the former is more suited to a rigid boom vang or
boomkicker.  If either are properly installed, they should raise the boom
enough to twist off the main.

The big advantage of a rigid vang or boomkicker is that it will allow you
to detach the topping lift and move it forward to the mast while sailing.

Why?  To prevent damage to your mainsail.  Topping lifts, in particular,
wire topping lifts, will abrade the stitching near the leech of your main.
In severe cases, you might eject a batten as the stitching in a batten
pocket gives out.  Rope topping lifts don't abrade nearly as much but they
will, over time, cause damage to the stitching.

We never sail Touche' with the topping lift attached to the boom.  It is
always detached from the boom and carried forward to the mast.  We have a
Garhauer rigid boom vang.

On Touche' the topping lift is only used to stabilize the boom when the
mainsail is not hoisted.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Sailing with main topping lift

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I see no issue with using the main halyard to support the boom when the
main sail is down.  Sailed on lots of boats that do exactly that.

Touche's topping lift is wire.  I've just been to lazy to change it to a
high tech line.  I rigged a couple of fiddle blocks on the end for
adjusting the height of the boom.  Several marina friends asked me to
duplicate the arrangement for their boats.  I use a Harken 244 and 245 with
V-cleat and a spring clip.  Makes it easy to remove and carry forward.  I
have a loop of line on the mast to which the topping lift gets clipped.
The adjusting line is then used to pull it tight.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Sep 30, 2015 at 6:59 AM, William Walker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis, I too have garhauer rigid and it was the first upgrade made to my
> boat.  Wouldn't be without it.
>   Do you see any downside to using the main halyard as topping lift when
> sails down ?  Done this for years without adverse effects that I can see.
> I removed topping lift.
> Bill Walker
> CnC 36
>
>
>
> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
> ------------------
> On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> A main topping lift serves two primary purposes: 1) opening the top of the
> main to create more twist and 2) holding the boom up when the mainsail is
> not hoisted.
>
> In my opinion, the former is more suited to a rigid boom vang or
> boomkicker.  If either are properly installed, they should raise the boom
> enough to twist off the main.
>
> The big advantage of a rigid vang or boomkicker is that it will allow you
> to detach the topping lift and move it forward to the mast while sailing.
>
> Why?  To prevent damage to your mainsail.  Topping lifts, in particular,
> wire topping lifts, will abrade the stitching near the leech of your main.
> In severe cases, you might eject a batten as the stitching in a batten
> pocket gives out.  Rope topping lifts don't abrade nearly as much but they
> will, over time, cause damage to the stitching.
>
> We never sail Touche' with the topping lift attached to the boom.  It is
> always detached from the boom and carried forward to the mast.  We have a
> Garhauer rigid boom vang.
>
> On Touche' the topping lift is only used to stabilize the boom when the
> mainsail is not hoisted.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___ Email address:
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Polyglow Removal

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Second Aquabuff.  Good stuff.  I use it to polish out gelcoat repairs.  The
2000 is a polish.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 5:57 AM, Joseph Bognar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Any household ammonia diluted will strip the Polyglow. I highly recommend
> Aqua Buff 1000 and 2000 to buff your hull . A good carnuba wax after is all
> that you need . The Aquabuff and a high speed buffer with a wool pad and
> lots of water will restore the most oxidized gelcoat that you have . Where
> is your boat ? I could show you how to apply it. I have converted most of
> the boats in my harbour to Aqua buff
>
> Sent from Joe Bognar
>
>
> On Oct 1, 2015, at 4:47 PM, johnr via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Would appreciate any tips, comments re removal of Polyglow from a boat
> with many years of build up.  Want to replace with wax.  Suggestions there
> are also welcome.
>
> John McLaughlin
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

or you can buy a 10" Samsung Galaxy Tab with GPS for $250.  Add Navionics
for $10.  Poof!  Chartplotter.

Dennis C.

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 10:08 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I have been looking into this and there is an excellent solution.   You
> can plug your onboard GPS into a wifi transmitter and receive the signal
> anywhere on your boat on your Ipad.   This is compatible with INavx and
> other software.   You can also transmit AIS if you have an AIS receiver and
> receive it on the Ipad (or any Android device) through INavx or other
> software.   This is the future of onboard navigation.   Here are some
> transmitters though there are many others.   Jerry - J&J
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [image: Digital Yacht NavLink NMEA 200 Wireless Data Server]
> 
>  Digital
> Yacht NavLink NMEA 200 Wireless Data Server
> 
>  by
> Digital Yacht
> 
>
> List Price: $833.92 Price: $495.77 You Save: $338.15 (41%) Ships from and
> sold by OJ Commerce
> .
>
> [image: Learn more]
> 
>
> [image: Add to Wish List]
> 
>
>
>
>
>
> [image: Digital Yacht NMEA to Wireless Wi-Fi Adapter - 4800 Baud]
> 
>  Digital
> Yacht NMEA to Wireless Wi-Fi Adapter - 4800 Baud
> 
>  by
> Digital Yacht
> 
>
> List Price: $458.92 Price: $280.37 You Save: $178.55 (39%) Ships from and
> sold by OJ Commerce
> .
>
> [image: Learn more]
> 
>
> [image: Add to Wish List]
> 

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I spent some time on the web researching aGPS vs GPS and saw the same
info.  aGPS found in many tablets and cellphones is, in fact,
satellite-based GPS.  aGPS simply uses cell towers to speed up the intitial
fix.

Having said that, in an offshore distance race a couple years ago, several
boats used Kattack tracking from cell phones.  Some of them, including
Touche', saw gaps in their tracks when well away from cell towers.  Might
have been because the phones were below.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Oct 2, 2015 at 3:36 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Jerome
> I must disagree with that statement.  My sony tablet with built in GPS
> works perfectly below decks, it is what I use for anchor watch.
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-10-02 12:42 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Joe - that is a common misunderstanding.  While the Iphone does not need
> cell service for positioning it actually does use cell tower triangulation
> for position and is not very accurate or fast without it.   Moreover, if
> you are below deck you will not get an adequate GPS signal.  This is from
> the internet.
> MotionX-GPS Does MotionX-GPS require a cellular network?
> The iPhone 5, 4S, 4, 3GS and 3G use an A-GPS (Assisted-GPS) chipset which
> uses cell tower triangulation to speed up GPS signal acquisition. Cellular
> coverage is not needed to acquire a signal, however the signal acquisition
> will be much quicker if you have data coverage.
> Without data services, it can take 15 minutes or longer to acquire a
> signal. This is simply because it takes longer to determine which
> satellites to use out of the 31 available around the world. With data
> services, it typically takes under a minute, but it can take up to 5
> minutes.
>
> How the iPhone knows where you are
> By Glenn Fleishman ,
> Macworld
> iPhone users' experience with GPS is so quick, so instant-on, that Apple's 
> Wednesday
> response about location tracking on iOS
> 
> might almost seem baffling:
>
> Calculating a phone’s location using just GPS satellite data can take up
> to several minutes. iPhone can reduce this time to just a few seconds by
> using Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower data to quickly find GPS satellites.
>
> Several minutes? Doesn't my iPhone take just seconds to figure out where I
> am?
> Well, yes… but only when it engages in a set of tricks to avoid a lengthy
> process that was de rigueur when GPS receivers first appeared. In
> simplifying matters, Apple’s not being entirely accurate about how this all
> works and what it's doing. So let me explain where Wi-Fi and cell phone
> towers fit into the equation.
> 12.5 minutes to locate
> Early GPS receivers took 12.5 minutes from a cold start to obtain a lock;
> later locks in the same region could still take minutes. If you turned a
> GPS receiver off for a few weeks or moved it more than a few hundred miles,
> a cold start might be required again.
> GPS relies on two factors to create a set of accurate coordinates for
> where you’re standing: time and space. GPS satellites broadcast precise
> time signals using a built-in atomic clock along with their current
> location. They also broadcast the location of all other satellites in the
> sky, called the almanac.
> Every 30 seconds, a GPS satellite broadcasts a time stamp, its current
> location and some less precise location information for other GPS
> satellites. It takes 25 of these broadcasts (thus, 12.5 minutes) to obtain
> the full list of satellite locations. This information has to be decoded
> for a receiver to then properly interpret signals from the satellites that
> are within range.
> If you know the position of four satellites and the time at which each
> sent their position information, you—or, rather, your GPS receiver—can
> calculate to within 10 meters the latitude, longitude, and elevation of
> your current location along with the exact current time. With three
> satellites, you lose elevation, but a device can still track movement
> fairly accurately. Standalone GPS receivers can lock in simultaneously on
> multiple satellites, and track more than four. Other techniques can improve
> accuracy, too.
> But, heck, I don’t have 12.5 minutes. I’m a busy man! Give me that
> location faster!
> Giving GPS an assist
> So GPS chip and gear makers came up with a host of ways to shorten the
> wait, called Assisted GPS (AGPS). Instead of relying on live downloads of
> position data from satellites, future locations can be estimated accurately
> enough to figure out rough satellite positions, and get a fix at which
> point even more up-to-date information is retrieved. These estimates can be
> downloaded via a network connection in seconds or even calculated right on
> a device.
> The current time can also be used as a clue. W

Re: Stus-List self-tailing winch problem

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

VPC is slippery.  I switched to VPC couple years ago for genoa sheets and
found 1-2 additional wraps were needed depending on wind strength.  I have
Barlow 28 non-ST's.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Oct 5, 2015 at 8:04 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We raced yesterday in 20+ knot winds and I found that the Barient 28 self
> tailing winches were both slipping in the self-tailer making it hard to
> bring the genoa in all the way.  I cannot find a line specification for the
> Barient, and when I replaced the line a few years ago, I got 7/16 VPC
> instead of the 1/2” that was original. Is this to be expected in high
> winds?  I found something from Barient that said that the self-tailer was
> adjustable with spacers, but I can’t find that in the parts diagram I have,
> so I don’t know if it is true and whether I need to change spacing.  I had
> the same problem with the Barient self-tailing winch we were using for the
> mainsheet which also now has a slightly down sized VPC.  Is VPC just
> slippery and this is a characteristic of that line?  Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Pair of Barlow 32ST

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I would not assume the bolt pattern is the same.  I changed out a pair of
Barient 22 alloys for a pair of Barient 22 stainless.  The pattern was
different even though both pairs were Barient 22's.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 5, 2015 at 12:00 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Currently at 1,000 , I think these have the same bolt pattern as the
> Barient?
>
>
>
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/171958683577?item=171958683577&viewitem=&vxp=mtr
>
>
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
> C&C 39 Erie, PA[image: animated_favicon1]
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Seized SS Nut & Bolt

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Impact driver?

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_36882_36882

Dennis C.

On Mon, Oct 5, 2015 at 9:19 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Graham:
>
> The nut is 'recessed' in a slot so that it doesn't turn when you torque
> the bolt.cutting the 'nut' is not an option.can't get a wrench or a
> pair of vice-grips on it either.  I have to concentrate on the other
> endthe head of the bolt is accessible.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-10-05 10:28 PM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Actually probably easier to cut the nut off if it is accessible, you just
> need to get one side of it.  I'd rough cut with an angle grinder.  Off the
> boat so sparks don't trash anything...
>
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>
> On 2015-10-05 10:19 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Josh:
>
> The head of the bolt is too close to the SS tube to get a grip on it with
> a pair of vice-grips.and the nut is 'recessed' so it doesn't turn when
> you tighten or loosen the bolt.can't get vice-grip or a wrench on it .
>
> Maybe try to cut the bolt head off is the viable option..I assume SS
> will be tough cut?
>
> If I try to cut it, what would be the tool of choice?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&c 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-10-05 9:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I've had some shocking success with vise-grips.  Maybe try one on each
> side?  Maybe you'll get lucky and the bolt will just break.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Oct 5, 2015 8:24 PM, "robert via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> I have a 'pebble in my shoe' kind of problem.a small SS nut and bolt
>> on my bimini is seizeddo I need to remove it , nobut it should be
>> able to come apart should it need to.
>>
>> I have applied PB Blaster, ATF & acetone, Liquid Wench.obviously, a
>> product is not the answer.   I tried today (thanks to Mike Hoyt) the 'tool'
>> that can grip a 'stripped head'.all I was doing was stripping it
>> further and giving my right hand a palm blister.
>>
>> I might be able to get a hack saw blade between the head of the bolt and
>> the SS tubing but it is going to be a challenge.
>>
>> The bolt takes a 9 mm wrench, however, it is recessed so that getting a
>> wrench on it with any force doesn't work either.  I can't turn the bolt and
>> I can't turn the nut.  I could simply ignore the problem for now but
>> someday I have to get this opened so I might as well not ignore the problem
>> now.
>>
>> Any and all suggestions are greatly welcomed.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
>>
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Stus-List Rub rail repair

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Anybody tried this stuff for rub rail repair?

http://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Air-curing-Rubber-5g-White/dp/B008MIRQUE

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Rub rail repair

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Thanks but I don't need it.  Touche's rub rail is fairly intact.  There was
a question on the Detroit 35 owners list about repair and I was just
researching options.

Here's more on it:  https://sugru.com/about

Looks like some interesting stuff.

I do have a few small dings I could try it on.  Hm.

Dennis C.


On Tue, Oct 6, 2015 at 1:11 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis:
>
> I haven't tried it nor heard of it but a long time ago I replaced a
> section of my rubrail (it rubbed a piling during a storm) with a section of
> new rubrail.  If I recall it was constructed from white EPDM.  I don't
> think I saved the leftover piece or I would offer it to you.  I think I got
> the piece of rubrail from Southshore Yachts.
>
> Bob
>
> On Oct 6, 2015, at 2:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Anybody tried this stuff for rub rail repair?
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Sugru-Air-curing-Rubber-5g-White/dp/B008MIRQUE
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
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>
>
> Bob Boyer
> S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
> email: dainyr...@icloud.com
> blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
>
> "There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as simply
> messing about in boats." --Kenneth Grahame
>
>
> ___
>
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1985/C&C-Logical-46-Power-Catamran-2832455/#.VhRtMCuvjlc

Dennis C.

On Tue, Oct 6, 2015 at 6:57 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> What a wonderful idea!   When we get too old to deal with our sail boats,
> we permanently remove our masts and presto, we have our motor boat
> comfortable and as stable as any power boat.  And without the stress of
> changing boats.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> On 2015-10-06 1:15 PM, D Harben via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Ah folks,
>
> Consider staying with a C&C:
>
>
> http://www.kijiji.ca/v-view-details.html?utm_medium=email&adId=1104866129&siteLocale=en_CA&utm_campaign=email_alerts&utm_source=alerts&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=email_alerts&utm_source=alerts
>
>
> 30 ' PICNIC MOTOR LAUNCH
>
>- Watch
>- |
>- Share
>- |
>- Print
>- |
>- Report Ad
>
> --
> Poster Contact Information
>
>- View poster's other Ads
>
>
> --
>
>- *Email poster*
>-
>-
>-
>-
>- Can't read the code?
>Listen to the code
>
> 
>[image: captchaImage]Verification code
>- Send me a copy of email
>- Send Email
>
> 
>- Kijiji filters and masks
> emails
>for security reasons.
>By clicking on "Send Email", you consent to this action in accordance
>with our Terms of Use
> & Privacy
>Policy .
>
> Important Safety Warning:
>
> Avoid fraud by meeting all sellers in-person to pay for items. Kijiji does
> not offer any transaction or payment services. Read More Safety Tips
> 
>
>
>- [image: 30 ' PICNIC MOTOR LAUNCH Oakville / Halton Region Toronto
>(GTA) image 1]
>
> View larger image
> 
>
>
>-
>
>-
>
>-
>
>-
>
> Date Listed 22-Sep-15 Price
> *$30,000.00*
> Address Kingsville, ON N9Y 3V8
> View map
> 
> --
> For Sale By Owner Make Other
> 
> Model C & C MEGA PUTT PUTT Year 2014 Colour Blue
> --
> Hull built buy C&C Yachts at Niagara On The Lake as a Mega 30 trailerable
> sail boat in 1978. In 2014 the hull has now been rebuilt into a mega 30
> putt putt as C&C did in 1978. This is an ideal boat for the Muskoka Lakes
> and the Trent Severn Waterway Systems.Call for more infornation and
> pictures.
>
>
> Don
>
> Don Harben
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List new fresh water pump suggestions

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto the Shurflo pumps.  My impression is they seem to hold up better than
the Jabscos.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Oct 7, 2015 at 10:46 AM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Would you consider one of these?  SHURflo EXTREME™ Smart Sensor™ 4.0 Fresh
> Water Pump
>
> We have one and I really like it.  The variable speed feature is what
> makes it a great pump.  If you run the tap slowly the pump just ticks over
> slowly too so is very quiet, almost silent, especially appreciated at night
> when someone is sleeping.
>
>
> http://shurflo.com/marine-products/fresh-water-pumps/extreme-series-pumps/8-extreme-smart-sensor-4-0-fresh-water-pump-12vdc
>
> The Smart Sensor™ 4.0 is designed specifically for cruisers and midsize
> yachts. Delivering 4.0 GPM and pressure up to 50 PSI, this micro-controller
> based variable speed pump precisely monitors your system’s water pressure
> and adjusts the motor speed, eliminating the need for a pressure switch.
> SHURFLO® engineered the Smart Sensor™ 4.0 with a superior four-chamber
> design that incorporates large inlet and outlet passages to maximize water
> flow and efficiency, providing a “Just Like Home” shower and quiet
> operation.
>
> Ken H.
>
> C&C 37 XL Salazar
>
> On 7 October 2015 at 10:48, Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Paul,
>>
>> Between the two I'd go with the 2.9 based on the combination of flow /
>> PSI  / Amps. The 2.9 needs a 10 amps circuit / breaker while the 3.5 needs
>> a 15 amp circuit.
>>
>> Your boat most likely has the 10 amp breaker, you'd have to at least
>> change the breaker / possibly upgrade the wiring as well. Also, if you are
>> counting amps while on the hook, the higher capacity pump will take a
>> deeper cut into your batteries.
>>
>> That is also why I decided to rebuild  / stick with the original model
>> 500736 pump on my boat. It's a little noisy but it's built like a truck,
>>  easy to rebuild,  and makes 3.0 GPM  / 40 PSI on a 8 amp circuit /
>> breaker.
>>
>>
>> -Francois Rivard
>> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
>> lake Lanier, GA
>>
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I am in the process of upgrading the fresh water plumbing on my boat.
>> The old fresh water pump was removed long before I obtain this project.  I
>> am currently deciding between two pumps: a Jabsco Par-Max 2.9gal/min 50psi
>> (31395-0092) and a Jabsco Par-Max 3.5gal/min 40psi (32600-0092).   The
>> Par-Max 3.5 cost about 50% more.I want to favor the Par-Max 2.9 to
>> conserve water but I am interested to hear what other think about the 2.9
>> gal/min flow being enough?
>>
>> Thanks for anyones input.
>>
>> -
>> Paul E.
>> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
>> S/V Johanna Rose
>> Carrabelle, FL
>> Regards
>> --
>> *François Rivard* 4111 Northside Pkwy, Nw
>> Big Data Black Belt Atlanta, 30327-3015IBM Sales & Distribution,
>> Software Sales UsaMobile:770-639-0429 e-mail:jfriv...@us.ibm.com
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List new fresh water pump suggestions

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Pump should not draw any current when not running.  The pressure switch is
mechanical.

Dennis C.

On Wed, Oct 7, 2015 at 5:57 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ken,
>
>
>
> Do you know how much current this pump draws when it is on but not pumping
> water?
>
> Thanks,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C&C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* Ken Heaton [mailto:kenhea...@gmail.com]
> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 7, 2015 11:47 AM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Cc:* Jean-Francois J Rivard; dre...@gmail.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List new fresh water pump suggestions
>
>
>
> Would you consider one of these?  SHURflo EXTREME™ Smart Sensor™ 4.0 Fresh
> Water Pump
>
>
>
> We have one and I really like it.  The variable speed feature is what
> makes it a great pump.  If you run the tap slowly the pump just ticks over
> slowly too so is very quiet, almost silent, especially appreciated at night
> when someone is sleeping.
>
>
>
>
> http://shurflo.com/marine-products/fresh-water-pumps/extreme-series-pumps/8-extreme-smart-sensor-4-0-fresh-water-pump-12vdc
>
>
>
> The Smart Sensor™ 4.0 is designed specifically for cruisers and midsize
> yachts. Delivering 4.0 GPM and pressure up to 50 PSI, this micro-controller
> based variable speed pump precisely monitors your system’s water pressure
> and adjusts the motor speed, eliminating the need for a pressure switch.
>
> SHURFLO® engineered the Smart Sensor™ 4.0 with a superior four-chamber
> design that incorporates large inlet and outlet passages to maximize water
> flow and efficiency, providing a “Just Like Home” shower and quiet
> operation.
>
>
>
> Ken H.
>
>
>
> C&C 37 XL Salazar
>
>
>
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>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Rebuild suggestions for Atomic IV

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Inspect the side plates and their sealing surfaces.  In particular, inspect
the thickness of the metal rim that the side plates are fastened to.  Raw
water cooled AT4's can be subject to loss of material if they sat for a
while and oxygen supported corrosion in that area.

Dennis C.

On Sat, Oct 10, 2015 at 2:19 PM, Wally Kowal via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We are pulling the A4 from our C&C 30 '73 tomorrow and my son is going to
> work on it over the winter for his term project in auto shop class.
>
> The motor gets light use in fresh water so I do not want to go with
> electronic ignition or other bells and whistles.  The boat has little
> residual value despite the fact that it is structurally solid and a hell of
> a lot of fun to sail and cruise in, so I do not want to invest too much in
> the rebuild.
>
> What do you suggest replacing on it while we have it out?
>
> Wally
> Whistler II
> C&C 30 '73
> Hull #190
> Penetanguishene, ON
>
>
>
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