Re: Stus-List LF38 Dodger available...

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

I am definitely interested. Please forward pics. 

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Jun 28, 2014, at 1:15 PM, "Spencer Johnson via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am replacing my aging-but-serviceable Dodger and SS Frame with a full 
> enclosure.  The Zippers have been replaced.  The vinyl windows could be 
> restored with the right kit...I have the Aurora one that would go also if I 
> can find it.
> If any LF38 owner is interested..it is yours for the taking.  Sunbrella 
> Pacific Blue.  I just hate to toss it...Pic's available upon request.
>  
> Spencer Johnson
> 1984 C&C LF 38 "Alegria" #165
> ~~~_/) * 
> Mount Prospect, IL
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Stus-List Dingy Repair

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello fellow CnCer's,

 

I have a mercury inflatable dingy. It has been a challenge ever since I
purchased it. Dealing with keeping it clean, managing it at the marina (no
dingy racks), repairs, etc. has not been fun. My current issue is a slow
leak in the forward seam. I have read about a sealer that can be inserted
through the air hole and is supposed to seal the seam from the inside.
Several questions: has anyone had any experience with this repair, how do
you get the sealant into the air hole (it seems to be too small to pour it
in), do you have to remove the air intake valve, does it work, what is the
best product and where can I get it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

 

Brian

 

Brian C. Morrison

S/V Rekofa, The Blue Whale

1979 C&C 34

Baltimore, MD

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Dingy Repair

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I have to take a look at the intake valves 
again. 

"He gonna gimme my ham, my ham, my ham! He gonna gimme my ham!" August Wilson's 
Hambone.

> On Aug 7, 2014, at 9:47 PM, "Ron Ricci"  wrote:
> 
> Brian,
>  
> I used the stuff from West Marine 
> (http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--inflatable-boat-sealant--444679) 
> a few months ago.  It works great!  My dinghy had a slow leak and required 
> pumping up every few weeks.  It has been two months since inflating my dinghy 
> and I have not had to use the pump. 
>  
> You do have to follow the directions and keep turning the dinghy over 
> (fore/aft & port/starboard) to coat the interior.  The liquid can be poured 
> in through the fill connections.  I have a West Marine dinghy which has three 
> capped connections with removable inserts that are used to let the air out.  
> They should be removed to fill the dinghy with the sealant.
>  
>  
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ronald V. Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>  
>  
> From: Brian Morrison [mailto:brianm...@hotmail.com] 
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2014 1:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Dingy Repair
>  
> Hello fellow CnCer’s,
>  
> I have a mercury inflatable dingy. It has been a challenge ever since I 
> purchased it. Dealing with keeping it clean, managing it at the marina (no 
> dingy racks), repairs, etc. has not been fun. My current issue is a slow leak 
> in the forward seam. I have read about a sealer that can be inserted through 
> the air hole and is supposed to seal the seam from the inside. Several 
> questions: has anyone had any experience with this repair, how do you get the 
> sealant into the air hole (it seems to be too small to pour it in), do you 
> have to remove the air intake valve, does it work, what is the best product 
> and where can I get it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>  
> Thanks.
>  
> Brian
>  
> Brian C. Morrison
> S/V Rekofa, The Blue Whale
> 1979 C&C 34
> Baltimore, MD
>  
>  
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Re: Stus-List Dingy Repair

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I have to take a look at the intake valves 
again. 

"He gonna gimme my ham, my ham, my ham! He gonna gimme my ham!" August Wilson's 
Hambone.

> On Aug 7, 2014, at 9:47 PM, "Ron Ricci"  wrote:
> 
> Brian,
>  
> I used the stuff from West Marine 
> (http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--inflatable-boat-sealant--444679) 
> a few months ago.  It works great!  My dinghy had a slow leak and required 
> pumping up every few weeks.  It has been two months since inflating my dinghy 
> and I have not had to use the pump. 
>  
> You do have to follow the directions and keep turning the dinghy over 
> (fore/aft & port/starboard) to coat the interior.  The liquid can be poured 
> in through the fill connections.  I have a West Marine dinghy which has three 
> capped connections with removable inserts that are used to let the air out.  
> They should be removed to fill the dinghy with the sealant.
>  
>  
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ronald V. Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>  
>  
> From: Brian Morrison [mailto:brianm...@hotmail.com] 
> Sent: Thursday, August 07, 2014 1:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Dingy Repair
>  
> Hello fellow CnCer’s,
>  
> I have a mercury inflatable dingy. It has been a challenge ever since I 
> purchased it. Dealing with keeping it clean, managing it at the marina (no 
> dingy racks), repairs, etc. has not been fun. My current issue is a slow leak 
> in the forward seam. I have read about a sealer that can be inserted through 
> the air hole and is supposed to seal the seam from the inside. Several 
> questions: has anyone had any experience with this repair, how do you get the 
> sealant into the air hole (it seems to be too small to pour it in), do you 
> have to remove the air intake valve, does it work, what is the best product 
> and where can I get it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>  
> Thanks.
>  
> Brian
>  
> Brian C. Morrison
> S/V Rekofa, The Blue Whale
> 1979 C&C 34
> Baltimore, MD
>  
>  
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Re: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Could be the carburetor. I've had this issue too many times. I chose to take 
off the carb, break it down completely and clean it out. Moyer Marine's A4 
guide is very useful. 

Brian
s/v Rekofa The Blue Whale
1979 C&C 34
Baltimore, MD

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Aug 10, 2014, at 9:48 AM, "Burt Stratton via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good question. I suppose it is possible but seems unlikely. The fuel pump 
> ought to be able to overcome that. Can you drain the trap? I would drain or 
> remove the trap and try it.  Try a new P-trap designed for the purpose. Might 
> want to check the operation of your fuel pump.
>  
> I just put my boat in the water for the first time and had a similar issue. 5 
> minutes and then stall. Starts back up after a short wait but won’t run for 
> longer than about five minutes. Sort of ran if fully choked. Turned out to be 
> a broken electrical feed to my electric fuel pump. Hard to believe how long 
> it ran without a fuel pump! I guess gravity and vacuum will do part of the 
> job, even through two filters.
>  
> Skip
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Danny 
> Haughey via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2014 5:38 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit!
>  
> 
> 
> 
>  Original message 
> From: Danny Haughey  
> Date: 08/09/2014 5:32 PM (GMT-05:00) 
> To: derlic...@gmail.com,mda...@darkstar.ca 
> Subject: Ok more atomic 4 issues...dammit! 
> 
> 
> Okay so no wind today...
>  
> I pulled up to the gas dock, topped off water and fuel, loaded up and away we 
> went.  Motor was running great!  Fired up left dock, motored away.  After 
> about an hour she seemed to be running out of gas.  Stutter ed and stalled.  
> Five minutes later, after seeing sail, she started right back up.  We sail 
> back to our home mooring.  I pull the filter on the sepertator, looked clean 
> as the day I put it in.  Then I thought, maybe the vent is plugged...  well, 
> it wasn't plugged but it is routed with a trap and that trap was filled with 
> fuel.  Would this have been enough to starve the engine?
>  
> Danny
>  
>  
> From my Android phone
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

The bilge pump on my 1979 C&C34 has died. I would like to replace it with the 
same type. It is the original which is mounted on the wall in the lazaret. It 
pulls water from a hose in the bilge and pumps it overboard through a hose 
connected on the opposite side of the pump. Does anyone know where I can find a 
replacement?

Brian

"He gonna gimme my ham, my ham, my ham! He gonna gimme my ham!" August Wilson's 
Hambone.
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks for the info John and Maryann. I was looking for an electric one. I 
found it on a couple of sites ranging from $177-$239. I'm thinking of some way 
to use the foot pump as a back-up however. 

Thanks again. 

Brian


> On Mar 14, 2015, at 8:07 AM, John and Maryann Read  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Brian
> 
> Replaced ours 9 years ago.  Exact replacement.  No problems so far
> 
> TMC International Industries
> http://tmcin.com
> 
> Diaphragm foot pump model TMC-70701
> 
> John and Maryann
> Legacy III
> 1982 C&C 34
> Noank, CT
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian
> Morrison via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, March 14, 2015 2:44 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Original Bilge Pump C&C34
> 
> The bilge pump on my 1979 C&C34 has died. I would like to replace it with
> the same type. It is the original which is mounted on the wall in the
> lazaret. It pulls water from a hose in the bilge and pumps it overboard
> through a hose connected on the opposite side of the pump. Does anyone know
> where I can find a replacement?
> 
> Brian
> 
> "He gonna gimme my ham, my ham, my ham! He gonna gimme my ham!" August
> Wilson's Hambone.
> ___
> 
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> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> http://www.avast.com
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Stus-List Best Engine?

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello,

I often sail with a group of sailors that have more modern and somewhat larger 
boats than my 1979 C&C34. When there is no wind and we are forced to motor I 
have difficulty keeping up. With a clean bottom my cruising speed is about 
5-5.5 knots. I have an Atomic 4 engine. I'm wondering would a Yanmar or a 
Westerbeke give me 7+ knots?

Brian C. Morrison
S/V
Rekofa
1979
C&C34
Chesapeake Bay

> On Jul 13, 2015, at 9:56 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
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>   4. Re:  intimidating Music (Dennis C.)
>   5.  solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate (Nate Flesness)
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Re: Stus-List Best Engine?

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks Dan,

I'll check there. 

"He gonna gimme my ham, my ham, my ham! He gonna gimme my ham!" August Wilson's 
Hambone.

> On Jul 14, 2015, at 6:19 AM, djhaug...@juno.com wrote:
> 
> Hi Brian, 
> that would be quite an investment.
> 
> Realistically, that atomic four, would be giving you about 18hp at about 
> 2600rpm.
> 
> I don't know what you have for a prop or how old your engine is or what 
> condition it is in.
> 
> I would, however, direct you over to the Moyer Marine forums.  I would ask 
> over there for ways to get more out of your atomic 4 and try to save the cost 
> of a diesel repower in a 35 year old boat.  Which could be 8, 10, maybe even 
> 15k.
> 
> You may be into new mounting rails, new fuel tank, new panel, new exhaust...  
> Even of you find a reasonable used diesel the labor is extensive.  Costs cold 
> even approach market value of your boat.  Especially of you have the work 
> done.  If you do it yourself it is your own time.  Whatever value you put on 
> that.  At any rate, the Moyer forum guys might be able to help you get a 
> little more for a lot less time and money.
> 
> Danny
> Still shopping
> MassachusettsOn Jul 14, 2015 12:47 AM, Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>> 
>> Hello, 
>> 
>> I often sail with a group of sailors that have more modern and somewhat 
>> larger boats than my 1979 C&C34. When there is no wind and we are forced to 
>> motor I have difficulty keeping up. With a clean bottom my cruising speed is 
>> about 5-5.5 knots. I have an Atomic 4 engine. I'm wondering would a Yanmar 
>> or a Westerbeke give me 7+ knots? 
>> 
>> Brian C. Morrison 
>> S/V 
>> Rekofa 
>> 1979 
>> C&C34 
>> Chesapeake Bay 
>> 
>>> On Jul 13, 2015, at 9:56 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: 
>>> 
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>>> Today's Topics: 
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>>>1. Re:  intimidating Music (Martin DeYoung) 
>>>2. Re:  intimidating Music (Ronald B. Frerker) 
>>>3. Re:  intimidating Music (D Harben) 
>>>4. Re:  intimidating Music (Dennis C.) 
>>>5.  solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate (Nate Flesness) 
>>>6. Re:  solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate (Jake Brodersen) 
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
>>>  
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Stus-List Fuel Tank Cleaning/Removal

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello,

I have a 1979 C&C 34 with the original aluminum fuel tank. I've recently had 
some engine shutdown issues that I've traced to my fuel tank. Ideally I would 
like to replace the tank with a plastic one. That was recommended by the 
surveyor when I purchased the boat. The problem is access. The tank is 20 
gallons and is too large to remove. On the other side, I would like to replace 
it with a similar size tank. The problems, 1. how to remove the original and 2. 
how to get the replacement in. 

The other option I'm looking at to address the fouling issue is to clean out 
the tank. I just read an article in Practical Sailor on using a power washer. 
Any suggestions on that method or others for cleaning out the crud in the 
bottom of the tank would be appreciated. 

Thank you.

Brian
S/V Rekofa
1979 C&C 34
Fells Point, MD

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Stus-List Window/Hatch/Blinds Upgrades

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello,
I have a 1979 C&C 34. It’s time to upgrade my windows, forward hatch, 
companionway hatch and blinds. The windows and hatches are leaking and have 
crazing. The blinds are worn and outdated. Any leads/advice is much 
appreciated. 

Thanks

Brian
S/V Rekofa
1979 C&C34
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Stus-List Re: need fuel pump for Universal M4-30

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

I go to moyer marine for most of my A4 parts. 

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Aug 16, 2021, at 8:56 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Mine is an M35B, not theM4-30. Do you have a mechanical or an electronic
> lift pump?
> 
> The electronic lift pump on mine was originally a problem, Universal
> (Kubota, actually) came out with an upgraded pump and I have had no problem
> in several years. The Universal dealer in my area had them in stock... but
> obviously that will do you no good.
> 
> When I was dealing with the original problem, I had a failure where it was
> not possible to get a new pump from a Universal dealer. I bought an electric
> lift pump for a Chevrolet pickup truck with the old 283 V8 engine.
> Temporarily wired and plumbed it into the system and it got me home quite
> well. I still have it on the boat as a backup to the spare pump I keep among
> the engine spares.
> 
> And, since after all it is a boat, I fully expect that since I have a spare,
> and a backup for the spare, that the pump on my engine will never fail
> again.
> 
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: dwight veinot via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
> Sent: Monday, August 16, 2021 3:51 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: dwight veinot 
> Subject: Stus-List need fuel pump for Universal M4-30
> 
> Hi folks,
> I need to get a new electric fuel pump for the Universal M4-30 in Alliana.I
> have changed the fuel filters and there is ample flow from the fuel tank but
> the engine died when put into gear and now won't start and seems starved for
> fuel. Has anybody here replaced an electric fuel pump and do you have any
> leads on where I might purchase one.Thanks Dwight Veinot C&C 35 MKII,
> Alianna Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS d.ve...@bellaliant.net
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with
> the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks -
> Stu
> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
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> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Bow Repair

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello All,

I had an unfortunate encounter with a buoy and my 1979 C&C 34 suffered pretty 
severe damage to the bow. The chain plate for the forestay was bent and needs 
to be replaced. There is some fiberglass repair needed as well. I’m thinking of 
fixing it myself. Anyone know where I can get a chain plate/backing plate from. 
And, advice on repairing the fiberglass. I’m located in Baltimore, MD. See pics 
attached.

Thanks
Brian

[cid:B6FA01F1-5448-4D73-ABC3-99237F9CB3B1]
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Stus-List Re: Bow Repair

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

On Sep 25, 2021, at 12:02 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
wrote:


Sorry Kato marine

On Sat, Sep 25, 2021 at 11:05 AM Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Kari Marine in Annapolis

On Sat, Sep 25, 2021 at 8:45 AM Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello All,

I had an unfortunate encounter with a buoy and my 1979 C&C 34 suffered pretty 
severe damage to the bow. The chain plate for the forestay was bent and needs 
to be replaced. There is some fiberglass repair needed as well. I’m thinking of 
fixing it myself. Anyone know where I can get a chain plate/backing plate from. 
And, advice on repairing the fiberglass. I’m located in Baltimore, MD. See pics 
attached.

Thanks
Brian

[cid:17c1d7c2ca93e475e121]
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
--
Joel

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
--
Joel

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Haul Out Question

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello CnCers,

I’m hauling out for the winter at a new boat yard. I’m having the mast pulled 
to do some work. I’ve never pulled the mast with the furling drum. I was 
wondering if the drum stays attached to the forestay, remains on the bow or is 
completely removed. Appreciate any responses.

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
1979 C&C 34
Rekofa
Fells Point, MD

On Nov 12, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:


Not only cheaper and faster, Schaefer makes quality, robust products.

From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2021 1:40 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves

The boom sheaves are a stock Schaefer item. They were OEM parts. Cheapest and 
probably fastest option.

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Haul Out Question

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for your input.
Brian C. Morrison

On Nov 13, 2021, at 10:28 AM, Jim Reinardy via CnC-List  
wrote:


I like this suggestion, I always worry about keeping the foil straight.  One 
trick that a lot of people around here use is to get a few packages of kitchen 
plastic wrap and use it to wrap around the mast, lines and foil along the 
length of the mast.  It’s surprisingly good protection and very cheap and easy 
to use.

Jim Reinardy
C&C 30-2 “Firewater”
Milwaukee, WI

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>

From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, November 13, 2021 8:15:09 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Haul Out Question

An easy way to secure the furler to the mast (if you have a deck-steppedast) is 
to put a length of lumber (I use a 2x3 - it fits nicely), about 2-3 ft, into 
the bottom of the mast, and then strap the furler drum to that lumber. This 
prevents the furler foil from bending.

Your yard would likely know how, but you want to have someone at the bow to 
walk the furler outside of your railings (to protect the deck}.

Marek



Sent from my Android-based can on a string



 Original message ----
From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
Date: 2021-11-13 08:44 (GMT-05:00)
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Brian Morrison 
Subject: Stus-List Haul Out Question

Hello CnCers,

I’m hauling out for the winter at a new boat yard. I’m having the mast pulled 
to do some work. I’ve never pulled the mast with the furling drum. I was 
wondering if the drum stays attached to the forestay, remains on the bow or is 
completely removed. Appreciate any responses.

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
1979 C&C 34
Rekofa
Fells Point, MD

On Nov 12, 2021, at 3:35 PM, Matthew via CnC-List  wrote:



Not only cheaper and faster, Schaefer makes quality, robust products.



From: Jim Watts via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, November 12, 2021 1:40 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Jim Watts 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Source for sheaves



The boom sheaves are a stock Schaefer item. They were OEM parts. Cheapest and 
probably fastest option.



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Fwd: Forestay Backing Plate

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

From: Brian Morrison 
Date: February 7, 2022 at 11:59:05 PM EST
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Forestay Backing Plate

 Hello All,

As I shared back in the summer I had an untimely rendezvous with a buoy that 
caused some pretty severe damage to the bow of my 1979 C&C 34. I am in the 
process of purchasing parts and supplies so when the weather permits I’ll be 
ready to work. I’m in need of advice as I have never done any extensive 
fiberglass work. What “system” should I use to make the strongest repair and 
best way to do it? Where can I obtain a new backing plate to attach the 
forestay or any recommendations on where I can have one made? Hopefully the 
pics won’t be too large to share. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Brian
Morrison
[cid:E5F09357-FE9C-4068-B962-05711759DACE-L0-001]

Stus-List Re: Forestay Backing Plate

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Martin,

Thanks for the insight. I think it’s a good idea to gets survey prior to and 
after the work is done. I’ve had two estimates from “qualified” professionals. 
I want to give this a shot on my own. If it gets to be too much I’ll call for 
backup.  I’ll check out the West System videos. If nothing else I’m developing 
a pretty good understanding of fiberglass repair.

Brian

Rekofa
1979 C&C 34
Fells Point, MD

Get Outlook for iOS<https://aka.ms/o0ukef>

From: Martin DeYoung 
Sent: Wednesday, February 9, 2022 5:08:37 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Brian Morrison 
Subject: RE: Forestay Backing Plate


Brian,



I agree with Charlie that an impact hard enough to distort the forestay/stem 
fitting may be more complicated than your first glass/epoxy repair project 
should be.



I suspect that there will be work needed on the inside of the stem.  A detailed 
inspection would indicate how deep the laminate was disrupted by the impact. 
Calypso’s stem layup is +-1” thick in that area, the forestay chainplate is ¼” 
thick and I would be concerned if I “T” boned something hard enough to bend it 
to that extent.



I do not know how robust your 34’s stem layup is but a qualified surveyor 
should be able to tap around the area and listen for damaged laminate.  
Inspecting the inside may require a contortionist with long arms and a good 
camera.



To your question regarding repair systems, I suggest checking out the West 
Systems web site and reviewing some of their “how to” info to get a good 
overview. Decades ago when I started using West Systems epoxy and fillers I 
found their info to be a good update to my “shade tree” fiberglass skills.



Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Port Ludlow/Seattle



From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 8, 2022 11:31 AM
To: Stus-List<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Brian Morrison<mailto:brianm...@hotmail.com>
Subject: Stus-List Fwd: Forestay Backing Plate



From: Brian Morrison 
Date: February 7, 2022 at 11:59:05 PM EST
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Forestay Backing Plate

Stus-List Re: Defender sale scheduled this month

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

I drove up from Baltimore about 10 years ago to buy a dingy. Made a ride trip 
out if it with my brother.

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

On Mar 5, 2022, at 12:46 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
wrote:


Remember to let us know when the sale begins.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



On Sat, Mar 5, 2022 at 4:03 AM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

What is defender? I’m not familiar
Do you have a website

On Fri, Mar 4, 2022 at 2:32 PM John McCrea via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I live locally to Defender and I have had my online basket full for a few 
months waiting on the sale. One new thing this year is that locals will have a 
pre sale event with vendors that will offer the discounts before the online 
sale begins. It is the week prior. Only 40 in the warehouse at a time so I 
suspect long lines. I have not seen any change in pricing yet and can hope that 
at least this year that they still have the good deals that we are used to. I 
will report back to the list in regards to what I am seeing for pricing.

Regards,

John McCrea
Talisman
1979 36-1
Mystic, CT

From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Sent: Friday, March 4, 2022 12:14 PM
To: cnc-list CNC boat owners 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER mailto:cscheaf...@comcast.net>>
Subject: Stus-List Defender sale scheduled this month


Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
--
Joel Delamirande
[https://drive.google.com/uc?id=0Bzdvlj_zFQR9UUZyRjFCM0FGejZXeGd5WFVnVTZRb0Y0Q1lZ&export=download&resourcekey=0-m6CKM9KPXYGNJ4zhsVYBxQ]
www.jdroofing.ca

Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
https://urldefense.com/v3/__http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards__;!!LIr3w8kk_Xxm!8raLR1ZpAZai-oEhXyhxsh8e6W1J46qnWkExdqczPAuxPbzv2KSE5BlxIqFGTwLyiFI$
Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards
Customized C&C Cutting Boards available at:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/cutting_boards

Stus-List Bow Repair

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello Everyone,

I have paid my penance. I have read the Bible, taken plenty of cold showers and 
rough rags on my skin to rid my flesh of microscopic fiberglass remains. I 
finally finished the bow repair I shared with the list last summer. Much thanks 
for all the advice and encouragement, especially Charles Scheaffer. I learned 
quite a bit, bought a lot of tools, talked to some good folks at Young’s Boat 
Yard in Sparrows Point, MD. The owner Ant’s Dad, who did fiberglass work for 
decades  was around to oversee my work and share his expertise for a few weeks. 
When it was all said and done I laid up 21 layers of fiberglass, inside and 
out. I trust the repair is stronger than the original. Time will tell. The 
fairing isn’t the best. But the paint matched pretty well.
[image0.jpeg]

Brian C. Morrison

Stus-List Forward Hatch Handles

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello,

Does anyone know where I can purchase replacement handles for the forward 
v-berth hatch on a 1979 C&C34? I am replacing the hatch but cannot remove the 
pin/screw that holds the exterior knob in place on one of them. I think I may 
have to cut it off and get a new one. 

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Forward Hatch Handles

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks for the feedback everyone.
Brian C. Morrison

On Mar 12, 2023, at 1:52 PM, John Read via CnC-List  
wrote:


Contact Atkins & Hoyle and Hatchmasters in Stratford  CT

On Sat, Mar 11, 2023, 10:51 PM Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Does anyone know where I can purchase replacement handles for the forward 
v-berth hatch on a 1979 C&C34? I am replacing the hatch but cannot remove the 
pin/screw that holds the exterior knob in place on one of them. I think I may 
have to cut it off and get a new one.

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray<https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray&data=05%7C01%7C%7C8a81f7ceff9e44c8bb7508db23228292%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C638142403345925672%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C3000%7C%7C%7C&sdata=CtlIEjo%2BRAvQtpp9pINze9iPi06C%2Bc1h%2FrTgTZqPGFo%3D&reserved=0>
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Bilge Pump Intake Hose

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello Mates,

Can anyone tell me the specific type of hose used for the intake on a bilge 
pump? The pump in my CnC34 stopped pumping out. I checked the suction on the 
pump by temporarily disconnecting the existing hose and attaching a temporary. 
I put it in a bucket of water and the pump worked fine. I followed the hose in 
the bilge as far back as I could see but cannot see where it goes under the 
floor through the companionway. I’m not sure if it is actually two hoses that 
connect and the connection has come loose or if it’s one long hose that has 
been compromised. I plan to just run another hose. Any suggestions on the best 
hose to use?

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hey Trevor,

Tried that. No luck. There is a pretty good strainer on the end of the hose 
that catches most debris.

Brian C. Morrison

On Jun 7, 2023, at 2:21 PM, Todd Williams via CnC-List  
wrote:


Brian,

Are you referring to the hose for the manual bilge pump “Gusher” that is in the 
cockpit?

On my 1980 C&C34 the electric bilge pump outlet hose (3/4”) runs through the 
cabinetry in the head to the outlet just below the toe rail. The manual bilge 
pump outlet hose (1.5”) runs under the engine and loops up to the Gusher in the 
cockpit on the starboard side.

I replaced my manual bilge pump hose this spring. The previous owner had used 
sanitary waste line, which was really stiff and had cracked. I just used 
corrugated sump pump drainage hose from a hardware store.

I am happy to send photos if that helps.

TODD
Indigo Out We Go

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 1:59 PM Trevor Parry via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Brian,

Before doing that have you tried cleaning the outlet of any potential debris or 
blockage? Mine did the same thing before I launched this year and I managed to 
clear it out with a wire after a few jabs then it worked fine.

Regards

Trevor



On Wed, Jun 7, 2023, 5:00 p.m. Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello Mates,

Can anyone tell me the specific type of hose used for the intake on a bilge 
pump? The pump in my CnC34 stopped pumping out. I checked the suction on the 
pump by temporarily disconnecting the existing hose and attaching a temporary. 
I put it in a bucket of water and the pump worked fine. I followed the hose in 
the bilge as far back as I could see but cannot see where it goes under the 
floor through the companionway. I’m not sure if it is actually two hoses that 
connect and the connection has come loose or if it’s one long hose that has 
been compromised. I plan to just run another hose. Any suggestions on the best 
hose to use?

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello Todd,

While my manual pump has not being working it’s the electric one I’m referring 
to here.

Brian C. Morrison

On Jun 7, 2023, at 2:59 PM, Brian Morrison  wrote:

 Hey Trevor,

Tried that. No luck. There is a pretty good strainer on the end of the hose 
that catches most debris.

Brian C. Morrison

On Jun 7, 2023, at 2:21 PM, Todd Williams via CnC-List  
wrote:


Brian,

Are you referring to the hose for the manual bilge pump “Gusher” that is in the 
cockpit?

On my 1980 C&C34 the electric bilge pump outlet hose (3/4”) runs through the 
cabinetry in the head to the outlet just below the toe rail. The manual bilge 
pump outlet hose (1.5”) runs under the engine and loops up to the Gusher in the 
cockpit on the starboard side.

I replaced my manual bilge pump hose this spring. The previous owner had used 
sanitary waste line, which was really stiff and had cracked. I just used 
corrugated sump pump drainage hose from a hardware store.

I am happy to send photos if that helps.

TODD
Indigo Out We Go

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 1:59 PM Trevor Parry via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Brian,

Before doing that have you tried cleaning the outlet of any potential debris or 
blockage? Mine did the same thing before I launched this year and I managed to 
clear it out with a wire after a few jabs then it worked fine.

Regards

Trevor



On Wed, Jun 7, 2023, 5:00 p.m. Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello Mates,

Can anyone tell me the specific type of hose used for the intake on a bilge 
pump? The pump in my CnC34 stopped pumping out. I checked the suction on the 
pump by temporarily disconnecting the existing hose and attaching a temporary. 
I put it in a bucket of water and the pump worked fine. I followed the hose in 
the bilge as far back as I could see but cannot see where it goes under the 
floor through the companionway. I’m not sure if it is actually two hoses that 
connect and the connection has come loose or if it’s one long hose that has 
been compromised. I plan to just run another hose. Any suggestions on the best 
hose to use?

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks David,

Went to West Marine today to check out some hoses. That stuff ain’t cheap. I 
figure I’ll need at least 14ft. at $6-$9/ft.

Brian C. Morrison

On Jun 7, 2023, at 6:09 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  
wrote:


FYI…any resistance, whether head (rise) of discharge or corrugation of inner 
will increase friction and thereby reduce the outflow and the  capacity of the 
pump.   Smooth walled hoses for discharge are recommended.

From: Todd Williams via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, June 7, 2023 2:20 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Todd Williams 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose

Brian,

Are you referring to the hose for the manual bilge pump “Gusher” that is in the 
cockpit?

On my 1980 C&C34 the electric bilge pump outlet hose (3/4”) runs through the 
cabinetry in the head to the outlet just below the toe rail. The manual bilge 
pump outlet hose (1.5”) runs under the engine and loops up to the Gusher in the 
cockpit on the starboard side.

I replaced my manual bilge pump hose this spring. The previous owner had used 
sanitary waste line, which was really stiff and had cracked. I just used 
corrugated sump pump drainage hose from a hardware store.

I am happy to send photos if that helps.

TODD
Indigo Out We Go

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 1:59 PM Trevor Parry via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Brian,

Before doing that have you tried cleaning the outlet of any potential debris or 
blockage? Mine did the same thing before I launched this year and I managed to 
clear it out with a wire after a few jabs then it worked fine.

Regards

Trevor



On Wed, Jun 7, 2023, 5:00 p.m. Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello Mates,

Can anyone tell me the specific type of hose used for the intake on a bilge 
pump? The pump in my CnC34 stopped pumping out. I checked the suction on the 
pump by temporarily disconnecting the existing hose and attaching a temporary. 
I put it in a bucket of water and the pump worked fine. I followed the hose in 
the bilge as far back as I could see but cannot see where it goes under the 
floor through the companionway. I’m not sure if it is actually two hoses that 
connect and the connection has come loose or if it’s one long hose that has 
been compromised. I plan to just run another hose. Any suggestions on the best 
hose to use?

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Bilge Pump Replacement

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Good Morning,

The Jabsco diaphragm bilge pump has lost suction and needs to be replaced on my 
1979 C&C34. The original model has been discontinued (37202-). The closest 
match is the 37202-2012. The original pumps at 4.5gpm. This one is only 3gpm. 
Is this the best option or is there another make available?

Thanks

Brian C. Morrison
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Actually turned out to be the pump. The hose is fine.

Brian C. Morrison

On Jun 7, 2023, at 10:39 PM, John Read via CnC-List  
wrote:


Had exactly the same issue on my 1982 34 on three separate occasions.  First 
time was mud wasps had built a nest in the discharge pipe near the outlet.  The 
screen in the fitting there had corroded away leaving an opening for the wasps. 
 The solution was to fit a hose sprayer into the hose at the pump, turn it on 
and out came nest.  The sprayer was a twist type, no handle which fit snugly 
into the hose.  I manually held it in the hose while twisting the sprayer on. 
Second was a kink in the hose as it rounded a sharp bend on the back side of 
icebox.  In my case the hose runs from the bilge under the floor boards takes a 
hard left and up to the discharge at the toe rail.  Solution was a new hose – 
nothing special just used automotive hose.  Third was a blockage similar to the 
first.  Same solution

John Read
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT

From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2023 3:01 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Todd Williams ; Brian Morrison 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Intake Hose

Hello Todd,

While my manual pump has not being working it’s the electric one I’m referring 
to here.

Brian C. Morrison


On Jun 7, 2023, at 2:59 PM, Brian Morrison 
mailto:brianm...@hotmail.com>> wrote:
 Hey Trevor,

Tried that. No luck. There is a pretty good strainer on the end of the hose 
that catches most debris.
Brian C. Morrison


On Jun 7, 2023, at 2:21 PM, Todd Williams via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Brian,

Are you referring to the hose for the manual bilge pump “Gusher” that is in the 
cockpit?

On my 1980 C&C34 the electric bilge pump outlet hose (3/4”) runs through the 
cabinetry in the head to the outlet just below the toe rail. The manual bilge 
pump outlet hose (1.5”) runs under the engine and loops up to the Gusher in the 
cockpit on the starboard side.

I replaced my manual bilge pump hose this spring. The previous owner had used 
sanitary waste line, which was really stiff and had cracked. I just used 
corrugated sump pump drainage hose from a hardware store.

I am happy to send photos if that helps.

TODD
Indigo Out We Go

On Wed, Jun 7, 2023 at 1:59 PM Trevor Parry via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Brian,

Before doing that have you tried cleaning the outlet of any potential debris or 
blockage? Mine did the same thing before I launched this year and I managed to 
clear it out with a wire after a few jabs then it worked fine.

Regards

Trevor



On Wed, Jun 7, 2023, 5:00 p.m. Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello Mates,

Can anyone tell me the specific type of hose used for the intake on a bilge 
pump? The pump in my CnC34 stopped pumping out. I checked the suction on the 
pump by temporarily disconnecting the existing hose and attaching a temporary. 
I put it in a bucket of water and the pump worked fine. I followed the hose in 
the bilge as far back as I could see but cannot see where it goes under the 
floor through the companionway. I’m not sure if it is actually two hoses that 
connect and the connection has come loose or if it’s one long hose that has 
been compromised. I plan to just run another hose. Any suggestions on the best 
hose to use?

Thanks
Brian C. Morrison
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Replacement

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks Neil. How was running the wiring?

Brian C. Morrison

On Jun 27, 2023, at 10:49 AM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I swear by my Rule low profile.  See at link below.

https://www.westmarine.com/rule-industries-900-gph-low-profile-automatic-bilge-pump-15038078.html

Neil Andersen, W3NEA
Former owner of a 1982 C&C32, Fox Fire
Rock Hall, MD 21661
484-354-8800

From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2023 8:33:30 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Korbey Hunt 
Subject: Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Replacement

I found a better fitting pump.  Many available.  Low clearance in the 34 C&C 
bilge.  Many available.

Get Outlook for Android<https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg>
____
From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2023 6:36:54 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Brian Morrison 
Subject: Stus-List Bilge Pump Replacement

Good Morning,

The Jabsco diaphragm bilge pump has lost suction and needs to be replaced on my 
1979 C&C34. The original model has been discontinued (37202-). The closest 
match is the 37202-2012. The original pumps at 4.5gpm. This one is only 3gpm. 
Is this the best option or is there another make available?

Thanks

Brian C. Morrison
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Bilge Pump Replacement

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Thanks

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Jun 27, 2023, at 6:50 PM, Josh via CnC-List  wrote:
>
> https://www.marineengine.com/boat-accessories/plumbing/gulper-320-shower-bilge-waste-pump-whale-water-systems.php?msclkid=c321d1f6c67411f652dcb56da39db79b
>
> The actual pump doesn't need to be in the bilge, just the end of the suction 
> hose.  I have mine mounted on wood pads I epoxied to the hull under the floor 
> boards.  5 GPM.  It will run dry and dry prime.  It will also pass trash like 
> paper pulp and bilge mung.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Steaming and Deck Light

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello Everyone,

I have a 1979 C&C 34. After a recent trip up the mast I discovered I really 
need to replace my steaming and deck lights. Any recommendations or suggestion 
appreciated.

Thank you.

Brian Morrison
Baltimore, MD

Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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Stus-List Masthead Light Fitting

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Does anyone know what masthead light goes in this fitting. This is on my 1979 
C&C 34. [cid:C1665EE8-586E-4043-AED6-7ED8E8A39941]

Brian C. Morrison
___

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Re: Stus-List Removing a C&C 34 fuel tank

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Are you sure it’s not your carburetor (if this is the A4)?

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

> On Sep 6, 2020, at 5:07 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> To clarify, I switched from steel tank to plastic when I repowered with a 
> diesel. The 2 steel tanks that failed were in gasoline service. They failed 
> due to pinhole leaks in the bottom. 
> 
> Dennis C. 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

I can be in the New York area (NYC) and am looking to replace the windows on my 
1979 C&C34. How much do you have?

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

On Jun 17, 2021, at 12:36 PM, rockland bazemore via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Thanks Al, I just confirmed my portlights are also 1/4”. If anyone in the New 
York area needs some 3/8” let me know!

On Thu, Jun 17, 2021 at 12:31 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I replaced my fixed port lights two years ago. I used 1/4 “extruded plexiglas 
with VHB tape and Dow 795. The plexi had enough flex to accommodate the curve 
of the cabin and the VHB tape held it in place. The 795 was used to seal the 
gap. The installation was the easiest part of that job. The removal of the old 
plexi and the repairs to the damaged gel coat took the most time. The guy who 
cut my plexi was a bit of a butcher so I spent a day with a file smoothing out 
the chatter marks on the edges. In the end it looked great and, so far, no 
leaks.

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

Hello Rocky,

Turns out my windows are bronze and the thickness is 3/8”. So, I would 
definitely like to get some of the extra plexiglass you have.

Brian C. Morrison

On Jun 22, 2021, at 10:50 AM, rockland bazemore via CnC-List 
 wrote:


hey write my normal gmail or text if you're interested because i don't always 
see these cnc lists
352-215-9888

On Tue, Jun 22, 2021 at 10:45 AM rockland bazemore 
mailto:rockybazem...@gmail.com>> wrote:
Hey Brian, I have a good amount of 3/8"  2412 color  bronze color and am 
acquiring a 1/4" 2370 dark bronze for portlights in a couple days. Let me know 
how much u need and I'll part with it for a what i paid price.

On Thu, Jun 17, 2021 at 3:16 PM Brian Morrison via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I can be in the New York area (NYC) and am looking to replace the windows on my 
1979 C&C34. How much do you have?

Dr. Brian C. Morrison

On Jun 17, 2021, at 12:36 PM, rockland bazemore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Thanks Al, I just confirmed my portlights are also 1/4”. If anyone in the New 
York area needs some 3/8” let me know!

On Thu, Jun 17, 2021 at 12:31 PM Alan Liles via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I replaced my fixed port lights two years ago. I used 1/4 “extruded plexiglas 
with VHB tape and Dow 795. The plexi had enough flex to accommodate the curve 
of the cabin and the VHB tape held it in place. The 795 was used to seal the 
gap. The installation was the easiest part of that job. The removal of the old 
plexi and the repairs to the damaged gel coat took the most time. The guy who 
cut my plexi was a bit of a butcher so I spent a day with a file smoothing out 
the chatter marks on the edges. In the end it looked great and, so far, no 
leaks.

Cheers, Al
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver BC




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
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Stus-List Re: New Foresail.

[Brian Morrison via CnC-List]

I recently used FX Sails. Delivery is expected within the next 2 weeks - 
fingers crossed.

Brian Morrison

On Jul 11, 2021, at 12:58 PM, Dale Hazlehurst via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Precision Sails has served the cruising community for many years with superb  
sales staff and high quality sails. They're located in Langford BC. You may 
want to review their site prior to making a decision. You can find them on 
youtube and facebook both, this will give you a pretty good overview of their 
product and customer support.

cheers
Dale


Precision Sails: New Sails Custom Designed for Your 
Sailboat

https://www.precisionsailloft.com



On Sat, Jul 10, 2021 at 11:31 PM DJ via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Yea, it can be quite a task getting pricing from the various sources.   I've 
done it before.

The first time, i used porpoise sails in Florida and got a used head sail and a 
new main.   I had no idea what i was doing and the prices were great.

The second time,  After a lot of quotes, i ended up using a local loft.  With a 
boat show discount, their price was very competitive.   Not as competitive as 
rolly tasker though.  However, they were quantum sails.   Very nice sails!

The last time i used precision sail loft.  Great pricing and very customizable 
with sail cloth options and added features.  I got a 135% for my 40 foot tartan 
for about $3300 delivered and i got the best level with all the added features 
like, added rows of stitching and reinforced everything!  The lowest level 
would have been just under $2000 IIRC.  I wouldn't hesitate to use them again.  
When i Googled the loft address it showed the same address for quantum sail 
loft.

More recently, i did some research on a main sail and got pricing from neil 
pryde  that was very competitive.  They made my existing main sail and when 
I'm ready I'll probably be going with them for the new main sail.  I have the 
Shafer boom furling system and they already have the design on file.  That 
might be why the price was so good.

It's really not an easy task and you should probably get into by getting a 
bunch of quotes and learn what the different prices represent.  Or, just get 
the cheapest.  I guess it depends on how much of a hurry you're in.  The boat 
shows are usually a good place to start.

Danny

On Jul 10, 2021 11:36 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
This year I  ordered a ‘performance cruising’ radial cut #2 Genoa from rolly 
tasker sails in Thailand - second sail from them, no regrets at all.

Dave
33-2

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 10, 2021, at 10:22 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Im looking online for a new foresail for my 1980  34 C&C.  New prices run from 
$2 to $4,000.  Where do I start?

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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu