Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Bill Coleman wrote:

If you are talking about the front cover and it's seal, why not get a
Speedseal cover?  I ordered one several years ago, it got here from UK in a
week, works great.  Uses an O ring instead of a gasket, on and off in a
minute with no tools.
You could probably give dimensions and get the right one.


Bill Coleman
C&C 39




  Bill,
That's a missed opportunity as the parts are already on their way from 
Montreal.


Bill
Caprice 1


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Re: Stus-List floorboards

[Bill Connon]

wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:


I am planning to remake floorboards this winter.  I have old ones for 
pattern.  Would be interested in any tips, on or off list, that anyone 
has for patterning, cutting, finishing.  Plan to epoxy all sides, then 
varnish.  Thinking of m making full size masonite patterns , attach 
with double sided tape to new floor stock, then use straight cutting 
bit in router to cut.  Thoughts welcome.

Bill Walker
36
Pentwater, Mi
Sent from my HTC


Bill,

I think that one thing you have to be careful about is to have the Teak 
& Holly ?? pattern lined up properly along the length of the boat. It 
might be a less efficient cutting pattern but would look more professional.


Bill
Caprice 1
C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List further questions about replacing the bellows on a PYI shaft seal

[Bill Connon]

Eric Frank wrote:

Thanks to the list's advice last week about getting the bolts loose on the 
universal to shaft coupling, I got them all out with an impact wrench.  Worked 
beautifully. But now I am stuck again getting the shaft coupling off the prop 
shaft.  Removed the bolts that grip the coupling to the shaft and also a 
square-headed bolt in the coupling that probably fits into a keyway in the 
shaft, but I can't break the shaft loose from the coupling.  I tried holding 
the coupling from turning with a pipe wrench and trying to turn the prop shaft 
(by gripping the sacrificial zinc on the shaft with a big vice grips so as not 
to damage the shaft itself), but it didn't budge.  And of course I don't want 
to damage anything.

One possibility would be to slide the shaft as far aft as possible (since it is 
disconnected from the universal and the SS PYI piece (that acts as the bearing 
up against the bellows) that is on the shaft slides forward on the shaft) and 
then get a small wheel puller on the coupling so it would push the shaft out of 
the coupling.  I have no experience with wheel pullers but it seems that it 
might work.

But I would really value input from the list about how to proceed.  Apparently 
the salt water leaking around the bellows this summer rusted the coupler 
sufficiently that it is really stuck.

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA


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Eric,

I recommend Jims' suggestion of using longer bolts and a socket. It 
worked for me. Make sure that you tighten the nuts evenly so that the 
force on the coupling halves stays in a straight line.


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Installing shaft zincs

[Bill Connon]

Wally Bryant wrote:
Well, I still give them a whack, but with a light ball peen hammer, 
and then tighten them down really good.


It might not be as important with these 'CAMP' shaft zincs that I use 
these days. They have an imbedded rounded contact point inside each 
half of the zinc, to maintain a good contact with the shaft that won't 
corrode away. I got them from boatzincs.com. www.campcompany.com


Wal

you wrote:
I’ve seen several instructions that say not to smack them with a 
hammer.  Who do we believe…  I know you want a nice tight fit though.
I give them a whack with a hammer but I back up the other side with an 
8# sledge to absorb the shock.

   Bill
Caprice 1







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Re: Stus-List Cutlass bearing removal tool

[Bill Connon]

Joel Aronson wrote:

All,

Does anyone in the Annapolis area have a cutlass bearing removal tool 
for a 1 inch shaft that I could borrow?


Thanks!
Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis


--
Joel
301 541 8551

Joel,

I'm a long way from you but I have a tool that I made and used on my 36. 
Jim Watts also used it on his 35. If you're in a jam I could mail it to 
you. I can also send you some pics that Jim and I took of the tool.


Bill
Caprice 1
New Richmond, Que.

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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

[Bill Connon]

Peter Fell wrote:
Just wondering if anyone local has a manual and parts list for a Mark 
1 Unit 0 furling unit that I could borrow and copy.
Looking for parts too. Mine is missing a chunk out of the top of the 
uppermost foil + the top cap. So I’m looking for a foil piece, cap, 
possibly foil connector, etc. I’ve got a partial copy of the parts 
list – looks like might have been a couple versions of this unit.

Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII


Peter,
Try the URL
http://www.harken.com/article.aspx?id=18799

There are a bunch of PDF files that you can download - manuals and parts 
lists


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Datamarine Auction (Della Barba, Joe)

[Bill Connon]

Della Barba, Joe wrote:


We have a winner!

*/Joe Della Barba/*

Coquina

Please send $221.87 to the Photo Album. Let me know when that is done 
and where to ship the instruments.

Thanks everyone for supporting the list and forum.


* Well done Joe. I guess it's time to send Stu another $20 by PayPal in 
appreciation of his services.


Bill
Caprice 1*

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Re: Stus-List Harken Furler Mark 1 Unit 0

[Bill Connon]

Peter Fell wrote:

Success  I think!
After a bit of a search I’ve found a new section of foil here locally 
in the ‘parts bin’ of a rigging shop (it’s actually new ... still in 
the plastic wrap). The rigger has a 2nd piece as well that has been 
cut down. Now he says he can’t be 100% sure it is a Mark 1 foil ... 
dimensions are correct and it is a screw (not rollpin) unit (the Mark 
1 Unit 0 were the only Unit 1’s that used screws rather than rollpins) 
but if it is a Mark 2 foil, then the shape inside would be slightly 
different ... this fellow says the differences in the early Marks is 
small enough that the connector can be modified to suit without too 
much difficulty.  I’ll find out tomorrow exactly what it might 
cost me for the part and also what the rigging shop will charge me to 
replace the forestay and fix-up the foil / install a halyard 
restrainer. This fellow says typically they make-up a new top-cap out 
of some plastic and he feels the old Mark 1 Unit 0 on my boat still 
has some good life left in it – in fact it seems this guy prefers the 
older Harkens to the newer ones.
Another rigger has quoted me $950 to repair the existing furler (not 
including replacement parts), replace the forestay and add a halyard 
restrainer (all with the mast up)  and about $2500 to replace with 
a new Mark IV Unit 0. (I can probably cut about $250 off that by 
ordering the furler myself).
I’m quite leaning towards keeping the old unit. Mainly a cost thing at 
this time – I’ve got enough other projects needing doing! ... if I can 
keep the old one going for a couple more years I’ve been told the rest 
of my standing rigging probably only has a couple year’s left in it 
 so then would be the opportunity to have the mast down and 
reassess the need to redo the furling.
I’m still interested in finding a user manual for the old Mark 1 
furling unit, if anyone has one they can scan and email or send to me 
so I can scan (and return).
Hopefully I can get this sorted out in the next couple of weeks, so 
that I can get measured-up for my new genoa!

Any further words of wisdom?
Thanks,
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
C&C 27 MkIII


Peter,

I have a scanned manual for a Harken Unit #1 from May 1991 that a fellow 
gave me many years ago. My furler uses spring pins but the manual is for 
a furler that uses screw connectors. I'll scan a couple of pages and 
send them to you. If it's what you're looking for I'll mail you the 
whole manual.


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Edson steering issue

[Bill Connon]

Wwadjourn wrote:
On  my 1981 CnC 36 the steering gets "stiff" when boat is heeled and 
travelling to the wind. Before launch, there was no play when manually 
tugged it to and fro, side to side, front to back.  Noticed end of 
last season.  I have never lubricated in three years I have own boat  
The bushing looked good.  I haven't crawled into the cave in the back 
yet, thought I would throw this out their for ideas.
Wheel doesn't turn as easily as my friends 34 at rest, but not stiff, 
and certainly not when underway.


Thoughts?
Bill Walker
1981 CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi.



 Bill,

I have a 1978 C&C 36. From the start I noticed the hard steering in 
heavy air. My first thought was friction in the system so I removed the 
bushing/pulleys in the steering system and made up new ones with ball 
bearings. I didn't find much improvement so I made up a temporary for 
the cockpit floor that allowed me to take the vertical rudder load on a 
roller bearing rather than on teflon washers.The wheel was still stiff 
enough that my wife could not steer in 15+ knots while going upwind. My 
conclusion was that the rudder would have been much better had the shaft 
been placed a few inches further to the stern. My only solution was to 
reef and balance the helm.


Bill
Caprice 1
New Richmond, Qc.

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Stus-List Splash and no messages

[Bill Connon]

All,

I've had no list traffic for the past two days. C&C related- I splashed 
my 36 at 5:00 AM this morning. Generally cold and wet. There was frost 
on the roofs of some of the houses when I drove to the marina this morning.


Bill
Caprice 1
New Richmond, Qc
48 08 N - almost halfway to the north pole!

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Re: Stus-List MORE QUESTIONS ON EDSON RUDDER INSTALL

[Bill Connon]

Ken Heaton wrote:
The 35-1 I race on has no stuffing box.  The top of the tube has a 
plastic washer sitting on it with a stainless steel collar locked to 
the shaft just above it to keep the rudder from dropping out of the 
boat.  Just above that is the steering quadrant.


In this photo the quadrant has been removed: 
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-smBuFS_gdZ0/UeZwhWjmAcI/M3E/e1coG51iNLI/w1364-h1023-no/C%2526C35Mk1+Bolts.jpg 
We never did find out what the bolts in the photo were for.


The 35-2 is the same hull with some modifications but sits a couple of 
inches lower in the water so perhaps may have a stuffing box?


Ken H.

 Ken,
My guess would be that the bolts in the tube are "jack bolts" to take up 
any slack between the rudder shaft and a worn tube. If that's the case, 
it's a poor solution to the problem. A better solution would be to 
inject the West System kit to rebuild the rudder tube. I did it about 12 
years ago and it's holding up well.


Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36



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Stus-List C&C smile

[Bill Connon]

I've been fixing the smile with Bondo over the past few years. This 
season I've noticed that I'm getting some sea water into the bilge ( 
along with rainwater that comes down the mast ). On haulout this year 
I'm planning on making a more permanent fix. Has anybody used G-Flex 
epoxy for this project? I plan on using thickened epoxy to fill the gap 
and then use wetted out fibreglass tape to strengthen the joint. 
Comments, ideas and suggestions would be appreciated.


Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List water tank capacity 36-foot

[Bill Connon]

Richard Walter wrote:

Greetings,

Our 1978 36-footer has a hard plastic water tank mounted under the 
starboard settee, It extends from the nav. station through 2/3 of the 
settee. Any idea what the capacity may be?  We also have a soft tank 
that empties to the hot water heater/shower/head sink.


Have others increased their water carrying capacity and if so, how?

Thank you,
Richard
s/v INDIGO
1978 36-foot
Watch Hill


Richard,

I have the same model boat and if memory serves, the tanks under the 
settees hold approx. 17 Imp gallons which is equivalent to 20 US 
gallons. The hard plastic tank under the forward berth hols 25 gallons 
giving me a total of 59 Imp. gallons.


Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36


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Re: Stus-List Prop recommendation

[Bill Connon]

Persuasion wrote:


I'm thinking of replacing my prop.  It was a temporary/emergency 
repair about 5 years ago when half of my folding prop decided it like 
being in the Murray canal more than on my boat.  My current prop is 16 
X 10 I believe (can't remember exactly).  I've been checking on line 
and the "Campbell Sailor" appears to have good reviews.  My preference 
is a 3 blade fixede as I will be doing extensive cruising next year.


Does anyone have any experience with a Campbell sailor prop. I would 
especially like to here from other 37 footers.


Thanks
--
Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 K/CB

Mike,
Our marina is open to the prevailing winds which are east/west. My 
pontoon runs north/south. When I had a 2-blade folding Martec it was a 
real adventure to get the boat tied up safely with a strong east wind. 
For that reason I bought a 3-blade "Campbell Sailor" fixed. Now when I 
approach the pontoon with a strong east wind, I enter at an angle with a 
fair bit of speed. My wife steps on to the dock from the widest part of 
the boat with the bow line. I give a good shot of reverse which stops 
the boat and pulls the stern to the dock. I step off the boat with the 
stern line and we're home safe. We lost a bit of speed under sail but I 
wouldn't go back to the Martec. ( If I won the Lotto I would look for a 
3-blade feathering prop )


Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36


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Re: Stus-List Leaking H2O tank-how to remove failed adhesive

[Bill Connon]

kelly petew wrote:
My forward tank had [still has] a slow leak at its lowest point where 
the water line exists.


I used a tube of adhesive [polyurethane, I think, but not sure] in an 
attempt to seal it.  It appears the adhesive did not bond well with 
the tank [polypropylene]

In any event, it's a botched job and I need to start over.
Any suggestions on adhesive removal would be greatly appreciated.  I 
suppose I could try and cut it away from the tank and line, but I fear 
I might puncture the tank.  The tank is under V-berth, and I wouldn't 
want to have to remove it!!


Also, has anyone had any success using Captain Tolley's creeping crack 
cure on this sort of repair??



Fair Winds,

Pete W.

C&C30MKII
Deltaville, VA



Pete,

Here's a YouTube video on how the pros do the job.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_Fkhz2G9Is
I have no idea what they would charge to go and do the job with the tank 
in place.


Bill
Caprice 1


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Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Group,

On haulout this year I noticed water drops from the seawater pump. I 
changed the bearings and seal and afterwards the pump would no longer 
self prime. I changed the impeller and was able to pump water using a 
600 RPM half inch drill but the boat motor would not self prime and pump 
anti-freeze through the system.
I want to buy a new cover, gasket and cam but can't come up with the 
proper part numbers. A call to the nearest Yanmar dealer did not help 
but I assume that it is a Johnson pump ( from what I found on the web ) 
and it was using a Johnson 827 impeller.
The motor is a 3GMF from 1985and the impeller is 2" OD x 7/8" wide and 
has a 1/2" bore with a keyway.

All help with getting the proper part numbers would be appreciated.

Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Joel Aronson wrote:

Try looking here:

http://j30.us/files/yanmar-manual.pdf or
http://l-36.com/read_pdf.php?file=manuals4/Documentation/Yanmar/GM-HM_WorkshopManual&title='Yanmar:%20GM-HM_WorkshopManual%20-%20Yanmar%20diesel%20inbord%20shop%20manual,%20one,%20two%20and%20three%20cylinders%20engines(1GMxx,%202GMxx,%203GMxx,%203HMxx)' 





 Joel,
I have both the operation manual and the shop manual but they don't give 
part numbers.


Bill

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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Indigo wrote:

My impeller part number is Yanmar 124223-42092 and the gasket is Yanmar
124223-42110.  I have never had to replace the cover or cam, so I don't have
those part numbers.

Jonathan
Indigo 35 III (with 3GMF)

Not sure where you are located but Mike in the parts department at Rex
Marine in Norwalk CT could not be more helpful.




Jonathan,

The gasket number that you sent seems to be the same as mine when I see 
a picture on the net. Would you happen to have the Yanmar number for the 
complete pump?
I'm in Quebec and usually deal with Quebec City or Nova Scotia, both 
approx. 400 miles away.


Bill

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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Prime Interest wrote:

Since you are able to get some pumping action when using the drill I would
concentrate on the water supply or discharge side of the pump or something
wrong with the impellor key-way. It would have to be a significant gasket or
cover problem to let enough water bypassing to cause a total discharge
failure issue into the engine - although there might be something
constraining the impellor but you've proved to yourself with the drill that
it is capable.

I usually have to raise the antifreeze level ( from my bucket with hose ) to
above the waterline to get it all starting smoothly and reasonably rapidly
during the winterization - once started it pumps at capacity. Adding the
antifreeze through the raw water strainer works OK but I wasted the
antifreeze trying to keep the water level near the top ... wasting a bunch
down the bilge. The bucket/hose method feeds into the hose disconnected from
the strainer then flows to the pump. Can get a couple of gallons through in
less 30 seconds or so.


Ed

Prime Interest
C&C 38 LF
Toronto, Canada
QCYC



Ed,
Today I took the cover off the pump, polished the outside piece with 
crocus cloth and then mounted it with the outside facing the impeller. 
There was a noticeable ability for the pump to self prime.
If I could get the proper part numbers for the plate, gasket and cam I'm 
sure my problem would be solved.


Bill



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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Rich Knowles wrote:

There is a possibility that the rubber impeller has detached from the metal 
drive insert and is spinning while the impeller either doesn't move or only 
turns slowly. Check the Jabsco website for impellers.

Rich



Rich,

I took out the impeller that was getting weak and put in a new one.
I'm sure that the pump is not a Jabsco and am guessing from pictures on 
the net that it is a Johnson.


Bill

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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Steve Thomas wrote:

Yup, seen that detachment thing happen with a brand new impeller. Brand name part too, 
not some no-name that "fits" xx. Had to get
towed by a power boat...

Steve



A power boat. That must have been embarrassing!

Bill

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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Gary Nylander wrote:
Also check the inside of the engine. I began having overheating 
problems a couple of years ago (just once in a while). Chased 
everything through the system and could not find a problem. Finally 
(after having done it before) I took off the square headed 'bolt' 
which holds the forward zinc - doubting myself because I had changed 
the zinc earlier this year. And pushed a rod down through the input 
hose - out came a very old rust stained piece of an impeller. 
Apparently it only created blockage once in a while I cannot 
recall having an impeller damaged in any way in the 19 years I've been 
changing them, so it may have been in there forever.


Suddenly, the engine is running cooler.

Gary
2QM15.

Gary,

When I tried the pump on the boat, the outlet hose to the engine was not 
attached. It's definitely a problem of getting the pump to self prime.


Bill

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Re: Stus-List Part numbers for 3GMF seawater pump

[Bill Connon]

Alan Bergen wrote:


These are the numbers I got from the local Yanmar dealer for the 3GMF 
(not the 3GM30F although they might be the same):


Water Pump  721575-42000
Water Pump Gasket  124223-42110
Water Pump Impeller  124223-42091

Make sure your water strainer cover is attached correctly. If it's not 
on straight, and there's an air leak, your pump won't draw.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III  Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



Alan,
The closest looking picture that I've come up with for my pump is at:
http://www.pumpvendor.com/Yanmar_721575-42702.html
It's all very confusing when there is no name or number anywhere on the 
pump body.


Bill


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Stus-List Seawater pump parts

[Bill Connon]

Thanks to all,

Dennis
I'm sure that I found the proper pump on the Depco site.

Bruno
I'll call Diesel Bec today and see if they can get me the parts that I want.

Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Impeller/gear puller

[Bill Connon]

Rich Knowles wrote:

Check this out:

http://www.westmarine.com/jabsco--impeller-puller-tools--P011_335_003_502

Rich

On Mar 23, 2014, at 9:49, David Knecht > wrote:


I need to change my impeller and after an earlier discussion and 
difficulty removing the present one, I purchased an inexpensive gear 
puller to remove it.  I tried to use it yesterday and found that 
there was very little space between the back of the impeller and the 
housing of the water pump, so I could not get the arms of the puller 
to grab anything.  The arms on the one I bought are quite thick.  Do 
I need a different tool?  Thanks- Dave



David Knecht
Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

The Jabsco puller is a fine tool but a bit pricey for a job that you 
don't do too often. I got away with using a pair of needle nose vice 
grips.


Bill
Caprice 1




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Re: Stus-List floor board fasteners

[Bill Connon]

Gary Nylander wrote:
As most screws get 'screwed' up - no pun intended' , I would vote for 
the Robertson head screws in stainless, and an electric screwdriver.

Gary

- Original Message -
*From:* RAYMOND SHIBE 
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Sent:* Wednesday, March 26, 2014 1:31 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List floor board fasteners

For the price of the PYC fasteners you could buy a battery powered
drill/screw driver and simply use regular screws. My near future
plans are to use "T" nuts from McMaster and Carr as the threads in
the anchor
points for my floor boards are no longer viable.
Ray Shibe


I've always used Robertson head with a battery drill to take my 
floorboards up in the fall, freshen them up and then put them back in 
the spring. The ability of the fibreglass pan to hold the screw is 
fading as the holes enlarge. What's worked for me so far is to put a 
toothpick in the hole before driving the screw home.


Bill
 Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Prop Mussel Farm

[Bill Connon]

Robert Abbott wrote:
The topic is back.last year, in an attempt to inhibit the growth 
of mussels on the prop and prop shaft, I coated them with 
lanolin.was told or read this would help.  When the boat was 
hauled in October, the prop/shaft were completely encased in mussels, 
again.  The growth has a noticeable, negative effect on the 
performance of the prop later in the season e.g.  higher RPM's to 
attain same cruising speed when motoring.  After trying a few so 
called 'remedies', I am now convinced the only effective way to keep 
the prop free of marine growth (mussels on mine) is to dive a few 
times a season and physically remove them.  Maybe I need a few pounds 
of lead, my safety harness on and tethered to the toerail and a few 
feet of hose the top end tied to the pushpit and me breathing from the 
bottom end.


However, before I comtemplated something like that, there is one more 
'remedy' I have heard/read about..it involves coating the 
prop/shaft with "galvanized zinc spray paint".   I have never seen 
this done and do not know what effect it might have on the bronze prop 
(shouldn't be negative but I'm not sure).  There is never any marine 
growth on my sacrificial zinc(s).


Has anyone heard of this?  Anyone with any experience with this paint 
on props?


Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Bob,

The breathing tube won't do it. I tried that as a kid and you won't get 
any air. You'll need an air supply - bottle or compressor and a 
mouthpiece to control the pressure.


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Sextant

[Bill Connon]

dwight veinot wrote:


Is it not common knowledge that the sun essentially remains fixed for 
all intents and purposes and the earth does the moving?


Do sextants work in the southern hemisphere?

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS




 Dwight,

The procedure is the same but you need sight reduction tables for the 
southern hemisphere.


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Cabin sole refinish

[Bill Connon]

Joel Aronson wrote:

I'm applying epoxy to the topside of the sole using West 105 and 207.
I added a couple before/after pictures to facebook.com/theoffice35
under the photo timeline.  Next week I'll start applying Cetol to as
many board as I can fit into my breakfast rom at one time.

Joel
Sent from my iPad

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Joel,

I bought my 36 in 1995. The first year at layup, I removed the boards 
and made temporary ones out of 1/2"presswood. I store the teak and holly 
in the basement until after the new year. The undersides get a good 
check up for damage from water/humidity from the bilge. Bottom and edges 
are kept well sealed. On the topside I give a light sanding and then a 
thin coat of  Minwax - Helmsman - Spar Urethane - Clear Gloss. The 
result is a hard, shiny finish which is not slippery when wet. Floor 
finish is a matter of taste but I get a lot of compliments over the 
appearance of my floorboards.


Bill
Caprice 1
C&C 36 - 1978

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Re: Stus-List Old style aluminum frame portlight gasket

[Bill Connon]

David Paine wrote:

Ron,

   Not cheap is right!   4 windows * 5 ft of spline/window * $4.00/ft 
 = $80.00  (approx)   I'll probably have to bite the bullet but here's 
hoping someone has found a reasonable alternative.


David


David
 Holland Marine has the spline at $21.47 for a 37 foot roll. I did my 
windows many years ago with spline from South Shore and paid a lot more 
than that. Live and learn.

http://www.hollandmarine.com/index.html

Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List third battery

[Bill Connon]

Don Siddall wrote:
In my 35-1 on placed a big red surrette 8D in the locker on the port 
side beside the mast. This put 240 lbs low and in the center of the 
boat. The battery had 375 CCA that I used to run refrigeration, SSB, 
windlass, radar ... a whole bunch of cruising gear. I kept a size 24 
in the locker beside the motor as a starting battery.


Don


 Don,

I have 2 Surrette 12 volts on my boat that set me back close to $500 
each delivered. Could you clue us in to what your 8D cost. Next time 
around I might be tempted to install a couple of less expensive 6 volt 
golf cart batteries in series.


Bill
Caprice 1


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Re: Stus-List CDI furling drifter on a CC30-1 with Furlex furler

[Bill Connon]

Russ & Melody wrote:

Hi Bryan,

It's okay advice up to the point of welding an attachment to the 
pulpit and reinforcing this to the bow.. that's just dumb. Why 
transfer the load to the stem when it can go there directly? The tack 
of the assy or drifter can be restrained nicely by an ATN product or a 
loop and wooden beads.


http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product2_11151__34298_-1ProductDisplayErrorView

Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35 mk-1

At 06:21 PM 12/05/2013, you wrote:
I was looking to buy an asymmetrical spinnaker for my c&c 30-1 but 
the sailmaker recommended a 1.5 oz drifter instead with a CDI 
flexible furler as this would allow sailing on a greater number of 
points of sail. I like the idea but can not figure out a good 
attachment point for the furler/tack of the drifter. The sailmaker 
suggested welding a fitting on the pulpit for the furler and a 
wire/turnbuckle led from the base of the pulpit to the bow to 
transfer the load from the pulpit to the hull. He says this will work 
and that the sail will not be under heavy loads in any event since it 
is designed to be used on 0 to 8 kts true wind.
Is this safe? Would this put undue strain on the pulpit and cause 
leaks? Has anyone tried such a system and did it work? Has anyone 
tried to use a drifter on a C&C30-1 already equipped with a furlex 
furler and if so where did you attach the tack of the sail?

Bryan
Middle "C"
C&C 30-1

 Russ,

I think that Bryan is looking at a completely different system that 
requires 2 furling drums. The JPG at the following address will show you 
what his needs are.

http://www.sailcdi.com/images/spinnaker1.jpg

Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Extremely stiff throttle

[Bill Connon]

Indigo wrote:

Up to recently my throttle has, if anything, been on the loose side. However 
this last Wednesday I had to use a great deal of force to increase the revs 
from idle and a similar force to return to idle.  I plan to take a close look 
at the cable and clips, but has anyone experienced this who can guide me to a 
likely cause?

Jonathan
Indigo 35mk III
Southport CT
___

 I just changed my cable the other day. It had reached the point where 
my wife could no longer change lever position and I had to force enough 
to worry about breaking the cable. I found that some previous owner had 
installed a clamp/adjustable bolt affair that would collapse the outer 
cover onto the inner cable to adjust the friction and thus the effort 
required to move the throttle lever. I tried slacking the bolt/nut off 
but that only worked for a day or so.  When I removed the cable to 
change it I saw where the bolt had broken the  outer casing allowing 
water to get in and rust the metal sheathing. The replacement cable on 
my 36 was a 9 foot universal made by Teleflex in the US and cost about 
$40. It's a bit of a pain to change it but at 5' 10" and 160 lbs I was 
able to get to where I needed to be to change it.


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Edson Steering System

[Bill Connon]

Helen Abbott wrote:
Recently, we have noticed a little 'play' in the steering 
system..by a little 'play' I mean the wheel turns approx. a 1/4 
inch before it engages the rudder.


Is something wearing away in the steering system and needs to be 
replaced or is this a case where an adjustment can be made to tighten 
things up?


Any and all advice appreciated?

Bob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.






 Bob,

I have the same problem on my '78 36 footer. The problem is definitely a 
worn keyway on the steering shaft.


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Martec Folding Prop Operation

[Bill Connon]

Joel Aronson wrote:
My Martec will vibrate if it is not in the right position.  I put the 
gearbox into reverse for a second or two and the vibration stops.  I 
assume it is in the feathered position.  (Don't sail with the gearbox 
in reverse.)


Joel
35/3
The Office
Annapolis



 Joel,

What are the consequences of sailing with the gearbox in reverse?

Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Asymetrical Spinnaker

[Bill Connon]

Alan Bergen wrote:
One of our yacht club members is a representative for Lee Sails.  He 
has an A-sail that was built for a customer who chose not to buy it 
after he ordered it.  The sail has a 53' luff, and is 1609 square 
feet.  If there is someone on the list who is looking to buy an 
A-sail, I can send you a picture, and you can contact my friend 
directly.  I get no benefit from this, other than making the list 
aware of this sail.


Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



 Alan,

What sized boat was that spinnaker built for?

Bill
Caprice 1 - C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List Missing Sail Track

[Bill Connon]

Alan Bergen wrote:

Eric:

The track on my boat is similar to yours.  When I reef, I remove the 
pin that keeps the slugs from dropping off the track, slack the 
halyard allowing the slugs to drop out of the track, attach the 
reefing cringle to the "horns" at the forward end of the boom, and 
tighten the main halyard.  It's a PITA, but having slugs makes it 
easier to drop the main when single-handing.  Another choice is to 
have a rope luff on your main instead of slugs, or install a fast 
track system, such as sold by Tides Marine.  Go to www.tidesmarine.com 
and click on SailTrack Systems.  They're expensive, but it's on my 
list of things to upgrade.


Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




 Alan,

To fix the problem, I made up 2 strips of stainless steel approx. 6"X 
1.25". I formed them to the shape of the mast and then pop riveted them 
in place so that a gap was left the same width as the sail track. When 
taking a reef, the slugs are all held in place by the slot extension. At 
the end of the season I drill out the pop rivets and put my strips aside 
for the next season. It works great for reefs and also makes flaking the 
sail easier.


Bill
Caprice 1 - C&C 36
New Richmond, Qc.

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Re: Stus-List Missing Sail Track

[Bill Connon]

Sam Salter wrote:

Your talking about a mast gate - like this:
http://www.beneteau235.com/f235_mods-mast_gate.htm
sam :-)

On 2012-11-17, at 8:32 PM, Bill Connon  wrote:



 Sam,

That looks even better than the one that I hatched up!

Bill
Caprice 1 - C&C 36
New Richmond, Qc.

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Re: Stus-List Missing Sail Track

[Bill Connon]

Alan Bergen wrote:
I tried doing what Bill suggested, adding metal strips to narrow the 
gap, but the slugs bent the stainless strips out of shape, and the 
slugs pulled free of the mast.  I mounted the strips with five screws, 
and that still wasn't enough to prevent the strips from bending.  The 
wide opening in my mast is about sixteen inches long.  The slugs on 
my  main are round to fit in the mast slot, with a flat section on the 
outside to keep the slug from jamming in the slot.  Slugs with just 
the round section jammed and made it difficult to raise and lower the 
sail.  I could use a longer slug (someone suggested outhaul slugs), 
but that would make the head of the main too high to attach the 
halyard.  I'm 5' 11", and with my present setup I have to step on the 
spinnaker halyard winch in order to attach the main halyard.


Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR




 Alan,

My first attempt was with aluminum moulding material but it was not 
rigid enough. The next try was with 1/8" thick SS and it has done the 
job with 3 pop rivets for many seasons.


Bill
Caprice 1  C&C 36
New Richmond, Qc.

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Re: Stus-List C&C Nameplate - Now printing dwg file problem

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

S Thomas via CnC-List wrote:

To any lister with AutoCAD experience:
The plate holding the cable idler sheaves that bolts to the bottom of 
the Edson steering pedestal on my recent C&C36 purchase has almost 
completely disintegrated. I downloaded a .dwg drawing of the assembly 
from the Edson web page and installed a version of Autodesk Trueview 
(2014) that is compatible with XP, but I cannot get it to print (plot) 
anything other than an empty rectangle. I have been poking at it quite 
a bit and got exactly nowhere. I have no experience with AutoCAD, and 
find the user interface tools less than intuitive. About like my first 
experience with vi in Unix, only less productive. Any fiddling with 
layer colours, and the layout tab disappears completely. Is there a 
simple way to print from either the model or the layout tabs in the 
file as downloaded? All I have been able to get in the print preview 
is a line rectangle the outlines the page, and sure enough, that is 
all that prints. The help files have not been helpful in  printing, 
but at least I can pan, zoom, and take measurements between points.
 Edson lists a price for the entire assembly, but the sheaves appear 
to be ok, and the Edson price (US$ 360) is pretty high for what I 
think that I actually need. I would rather just make a mounting plate 
if I can't purchase one for a reasonable price.

Steve Thomas
C&C36 MKI
Merritt Island, FL


 Steve,

Could you send me a copy of the file that you're trying to print. I have 
access to several versions of AutoCad and one of them might be able to 
print the file. For what it's worth my son works at programming in a 
machine shop and their production programs are all written in MasterCam.


Bill
Caprice 1

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Stus-List Keel bolt pattern '78 36 footer

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

A few months back somebody posted a drawing of the keel bolts on the C&C 
36. I saved a copy but can no longer find it. If anybody has a copy 
could they please send it to me at my e-mail address.


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List New bearing arrived. How to make it tighter.

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:


As the heading says my new bearing has arrived. It slid right in with 
minimal resistance. It is also 1/2 inch too long. Is any of this an 
issue.

Should I cut it down to fit?
Do I need to add some sort of glue or epoxy? Or will the two set 
screws be enough? Here is a link to my blog where there is a pic.


https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/

https://m.facebook.com/The-Next-14-Years-1011224262273851/

Brian Fry
la Neige
37/40xl 1993
Havre de Grace




Brian,

I've seen machinists in the mill working on shafts that were slightly 
undersized. Their trick was to run a dull, rounded tool down the length 
of the shaft as the lathe was slowly turning. They didn't remove any 
steel. They just created a small groove and a greater diameter on each 
side of the groove. I'm sure that if you took your bearing to a machine 
shop that they would be aware of the trick. When I changed my bearing I 
cut it to the proper length on my lathe.


Bill
Caprice 1

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Re: Stus-List Rigging/chain-plate tie-rods

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

Patrick Wesley via CnC-List wrote:
Several years ago I noticed a leak in the cabin roof under the place 
where the chain-plate tie rod goes up to meet with the deck fitting u 
bolt to which the shrouds are attached. The fibreglass guy sealed the 
leak. Several weeks ago I noticed a white deposit (calcium–like) on 
the tie rod at the top and asked a rigger to check it out. He says 
that the tie rods are aluminum and corrode when moisture gets to 
them. First they push the deck up (which he says is already 
happening) and then they pull the u bolt down; this part needs 
further explanation. Repairs estimated from $1,300 to $2,000, doing 
both port and starboard sides. I’ve told him I will either repair the 
rods or sell the boat with disclosure, but will not ignore the problem.


My dilemma is the usual one, how long do I continue to put money into 
an older boat, especially as I’m 75. However I’d rather sell the boat 
because I can no longer sail it than because I can no longer afford 
it! Gives me a lot of pleasure and keeps me active and motivated.


Anyway, I wonder if anyone has any advice to offer, would appreciate 
the feed-back.




Patrick,

On my '78 36 footer, the only aluminum that I had was the cover plate 
around the chain plates and it was corroding, making it impossible to 
keep sealant around the hole where the the plates pass through the deck. 
I slacked the rigging, took the chain plates off to re-seal the area and 
brought the covers home where I made new ones out of 1/8" stainless 
steel. I can't say that I've ever seen a boat with aluminum chain plates 
but in my case there was no cost to repair other than my labour and time.


Bill (also 75)
Caprice 1

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Stus-List Caulking for keel bolts

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

Gentlemen,

I raised the mast about 2 ft. yesterday for the first time in several 
years and found the keel bolt relatively loose with very little caulking 
under the SS washer. I would like to know what are the best choices in 
caulking compound to use under the washer. I would assume that you lay 
down a generous bed of compound, tighten the nut lightly, allow to set 
for 24 hrs, and then torque to the 350 ft/lbs required.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Bill
Caprice 1
1978 C&C 36

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Re: Stus-List Need help from a fellow Cnc listers in Florida

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

Bruno,
You are a very good friend.

What make and model boat does your friend have?   1" Shaft".  Length? 
  Keyway dimensions?  Taper for the prop? Cutless bearing OD and length?


There is a slim chance someone on this list has replaced theirs so 
your friend may have to haul the boat, remove the shaft, measure 
everything and order the right parts?  If he's doing all this he 
should also replace the piece of hose between the shaft log and the 
stuffing box if it's older than 10 years?


I doubt anybody but the builder keeps prop shaft dimensions for a 
specific boat.  Best of luck.


Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md



 I imagine that Bruno will be back with more details but in the 
meantime the boat involved is a CS Merlin 36 ft. long. If somebody knows 
of a CS newsgroup similar to our C&C group it could be of a big help.


Bill
Caprice 1


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Re: Stus-List Cutless Bearing

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List wrote:
Having only owned the boat 3 years I've never had to change this 
before, but I noticed while greasing my max prop that there is a lot 
of play in the prop shaft and the bearing definitely needs replaced.


How difficult of a job is this?  Does the rudder have to be removed to 
remove the prop shaft?  How likely is an amateur to make a very costly 
mistake in the course of removing the shaft from the coupling and 
removing the bearing from the strut?  The yard tells me this is a half 
day job at least, which means $$$ if I have them do it.  I'm weighing 
the cost-benefit of saving money by replacing this myself and the 
possible cost of a screwing up the job and needing them to come in 
anyway.


Erik
C&C 35-3


  Erik,
Jim Watts and I did the job ourselves without removing anything except 
the prop. My boat is a 36 and Jim's is a 35 III I believe so the puller 
is for a 1" shaft. I'll send a couple of pictures to your e-mail address 
so that you can see how the puller is set up. Pics courtesy of Jim Watts.


Bill Connon
Caprice 1


  



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Re: Stus-List 3gm30f airlock

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:

any suggestions on how to work around this?

started and ran yesterday. no luck today
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Mike,

If you mean that your seawater pump is not pushing any water out the 
exhaust you could undo the outlet from the filter, insert a funnel in 
the hose and pour priming water down the funnel until the pump is 
primed. If the engine does not start and the pump does not prime you 
have to be careful not to fill your cylinders with water. Been there - 
done that!


Bill
Caprice 1

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Stus-List Boat for sale

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

All,

I've decided that it's time to sell my C&C. My wife is seriously ill and 
my own physical condition has gone downhill from old hockey, football 
and car accident injuries. I listed the boat on the local Kijiji site 
and also with Boulet-Lemelin in Quebec City.

http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/C%26C-36-2959463/NEW-RICHMOND/Canada#.VzqV7BOgswK
We live in a lightly populated area and so far have had very few 
inquiries. I'm wondering if there might be some interest in the Chaleur 
Bay - Northumberland Strait area.


Bill Connon

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Stus-List Sales tax in Canada

[Bill Connon via CnC-List]

We've been having a discussion at the marina over sales tax payable in 
Canada. One thought is that a sale between two private owners incurs no 
tax whereas a sale by a broker brings on PST and GST. Does anybody out 
there have definite knowledge, especially where Quebec is involved? ( we 
still operate under Napoleonic Civil law)


Bill
Caprice 1

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