Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

On 5/13/2014 12:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


On the topic of anchors and anchoring.  Does anyone have any thoughts 
on kelets or "anchor buddies"?




I ALWAYS use a kellet made from a small vinyl coated mushroom anchor, a 
couple of carabiners, 30 feet of small diameter line for retrieval, and 
one of these so it glides up and down the anchor line:


http://www.ems.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4055115&cp=3677347.11360113

Open the pulley and slip it over the rode. Slide it closed, and hang the 
anchor on it using the carabiner. Retrieval line is tied to the 
carabiner. Easy-peasey!


In over 50 years, in conditions mild to wild, I have never dragged while 
using a kellet. I consider it essential, and it really is nothing to 
deploy and retrieve it.


Bill Bina





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Re: Stus-List Shackles and chain

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Uh-oh. Buncha sailors comparing the size of their anchors. This won't 
end well! ;-)


Bill Bina

On 5/13/2014 2:38 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:

I think Joel is right in that what is unusual is that heavy anchor line and 
chain size for only a 27-lb anchor.  I use that size anchor line and chain on 
my 44-lb anchor!

Bob

Bob Boyer
(Sent from my iPad4)
S/V Rainy Days
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
Annapolis, Maryland
email: dainyr...@icloud.com
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com

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Re: Stus-List PO,ed

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

That incident changed the way I think about when is a good time to be 
clipped on, and wearing a PFD. Previous to that, I had never really 
thought about being thrown off the boat by another boat smashing into me 
in otherwise relatively benign conditions. I never thought to take those 
precautions when slowly and peacefully gliding along in fog... 
especially on a weekday, when most of the weekend warriors are not out 
on the water, speeding around with no lights, radio, or horn signals.


Bill Bina

On 5/14/2014 9:40 AM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:
In 2003 a J105 heading for Block Island race week crashed into a large 
motor yacht because the crew of the J105 could not figure out how to 
stop the tiller auto pilot.  The captain was below and had a heart 
attack after the collision and died on the way to the hospital.  No 
one was on watch on the yacht which was also on autopilot.  Sometimes 
pushing the right button isn't easy.  Jerry




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Re: Stus-List help

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Go to the cncphotoalbum.com website at the link provided at the bottom 
of every list email. Click on the big "SUBSCRIBE" link on the main page. 
It will take you to a page with all options for changing info, or 
unsubscribing. You should be able to figure it out from there.


Bill Bina

On 5/14/2014 3:28 PM, Dan Sargeant via CnC-List wrote:


(Not sure I'm doing this properly but here goes... (No that's not 
me yelling earlier!)


I would like to change my destination email address from 
dan.sarge...@ns.sympatico.ca  to 
sarge...@hotmail.com  . Can that be done?


Many thanks.

Dan Sargeant

C&C 32 /Ocean Pearl/

Dan Sargeant

597 Shore Drive

Bedford, Nova Scotia

B4A 2C9

(h) 902 835 9728

(c) 902 237 9728



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Re: Stus-List java updates - and some sailing content

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
In my basement, I still have one of the
  huge removable 300mb disc packs from my old CDC washtub backup
  drive. New, back then, they were about $25k each and I had 8 of
  them. The system it was connected to was mirrored pairs of
  PDP-11's that were slightly modified by ATEX for newspaper
  publishing. I kept one pack as a memento. 
  
  This isn't me, but some other guy holding a 300mb disc pack
  
  https://www.flickr.com/photos/old_dave/5490459075/
  
  In sailing news, I'll be watching the C.W. Morgan as it moves from
  Mystic Seaport to New London tomorrow. The last time it was out of
  Mystic Seaport was when they dragged it there as a waterlogged
  derelict in 1941. The first time I was aboard was over 50 years
  ago. At that time she could not even float and was resting on sand
  behind a coffer dam.
  
  http://www.mysticseaport.org/38thvoyage/
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 5/16/2014 5:33 AM, via CnC-List wrote:


  
  IBM 1130
 
Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII 
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Why via? - yahoo breaks email lists

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I think it would be reasonable to ban yahoo email accounts from the 
list. This is not the first time yahoo has done something to break 
everybody else's lists. I'm using an sbcglobal email address, which is 
operated through yahoo. I would have no real problem getting a gmail 
account and re-subscribing if that would help Stu and make the list more 
stable.


Here is an article with some background on the issue:
http://tech-beta.slashdot.org/story/14/04/09/2047205/yahoo-dmarc-implementation-breaks-most-mailing-lists

Bill Bina


On 5/16/2014 11:07 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Steve

You are Special.

Mike

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*via CnC-List

*Sent:* Friday, May 16, 2014 12:03 PM
*To:* Stews List
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Why via?

I don't use Yahoo.
My ISP is sympatico, which uses the Microsoft Hotmail (live.com) server.

I see everyone else's names, is it just mine that appears this way?
Is there something I can do to fix this?

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII



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Re: Stus-List RPMs on Your Diesel Engine

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Those extra rpm's make a difference
  when being hit head-on by waves, or even chop. The added ability
  to accelerate faster back up to hull speed will make your average
  speed over time faster, even though you won't be exceeding hull
  speed. How fast you recover after a wave slows you down can make
  quite a difference in how soon you get where you are going. That
  is why it never hurts to have a few more horsepower. Reaching hull
  speed in calm flat water is not the goal.  Most boats that are
  considered a bit underpowered have no trouble reaching hull speed
  when there is no opposition. Of course, going slower than hull
  speed in those conditions will generally be more comfortable if
  that is your priority.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 5/27/2014 5:26 PM, via CnC-List wrote:


I am told my
Beta 25 can run up to 3600 but I reach hull speed at ~ 3200
so running it higher is pointless--the speed is fixed by the
combination
of rpm/transmission ratio/prop size/LWL. It is loud enough
  at 3200!
 
Charlie Nelson
S/V Water Phantom
 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 

  


  


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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 100, Issue 69

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Fuel filler hose. Do not use anything that is not fuel proof. Someday, 
you, or someone else will somehow manage to spill enough gasoline or 
other solvent in the cockpit to melt inferior hoses. It doesn't take 
much, as many cockpit drain hoses have a low spot where a couple 
spoonfuls will sit and do its work. That can lead to a LOT of water 
filling up your boat.


C&C originally used something very close to this:
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|2243574|2243581&id=106386

Bill Bina


On 5/27/2014 6:46 PM, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List wrote:

What is the best hose to use for cockpit drain to thru hulls?

Cheers!

Alex

Alex Giannelia
a...@airsensing.com
+1 (416) 203-9858 Office
+1 (416) 529-0070 Mobile
www.airsensing.com





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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
The issue with the Bluenose is that it
  is only maybe 16 feet long and this boat is obviously much bigger.
  The cape dory I linked has the same port configuration, but I
  agree that the stern is wrong. There were a ton of "me too" boats
  in that era, so this could even be from some company that built
  10-20 boats and folded. 25 to 20 feet seems the right size range.
  The roue 20 lacks the wood coamings, and has slotted metal
  toerails. To me it seems like just another of the "me too" boats
  with lines approximately borrowed from CD. This boat has many CD
  inspired visual clues. The little triangular second set of
  spreaders looks familiar. Another guess of mine that is probably
  wrong, but might jog someone else's memory is that it looks
  similar but not identical to a Sea Sprite.
  
  http://www.boatersresources.com/bfs_detail.php?adid=99781
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 6/2/2014 4:51 PM, dwight wrote:


  
  
  

  

  

  
  
  
The
  stern of the cape dorey
  is quite different and not as sleek as the
  lttle Bluenose or the Roue 20, which
  is another possibility but the Roue 20 is 30
  feet long
 

  

  
  From:
CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Bill Bina - gmail
via CnC-List
Sent:
June 2, 2014 3:18 PM
To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject:
Re: Stus-List Can anyone
identify the class of this boat?

 
http://www.sailingtexas.com/scapedory25100.html
  
  
  Bill Bina

  On 6/2/2014 1:08
PM,
David Jacobs via CnC-List wrote:


   
   

 
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Can anyone identify the class of this boat?

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Cheoy Lee, and I imagine other Asian
  manufactures, made a slew of boats similar to this one. I know
  Bill Luders had a relationship with Cheoy Lee, and he did many
  boats in this general style. There are also some old Hinckley and
  Morris boats that have this look. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 6/2/2014 10:20 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Allied built a knock off of the Cape Dory 25. One came
through the city docks where I work about a week ago, with a
young couple moving it to their new home. When I asked if it was
a Cape Dory, they told me it was an Allied, licensed from the
Cape Dory 25 design.
  
  
  Rick Brass
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Water from a hot water heater is not considered 'potable'. It should not 
be used for cooking or drinking.


The reason is this. The danger zone for most bacteria is 40 degrees F to 
140 degrees F. There are several harmful bacteria that can live in your 
water heater, including legionella, if the temperature is maintained 
below 140 degrees F.


The danger increases with less frequent use of the heater, meaning that 
freshly treated water is not being introduced regularly to kill or knock 
down these bacterial populations.


The bacteria can be introduced several ways; when installing any new 
water line, breach in city main, native to well water, new water heater, 
etc.



Bill Bina


On 7/8/2014 4:45 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

All,

I've got a Raritan heater.  When I run my Yanmar 30GM the hot water 
out of the tap is certainly cooler than I would get from my home water 
heater.  When used to make instant coffee the coffee can be drunk 
right away without cooling.


How hot should the water get?
Do I need to flush the water heater?

--
Joel



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Re: Stus-List Hot Water heater question

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
I once troubleshot a home boiler with
  an integral domestic hot water coil. The water coming out of the
  taps never got more than warm. Turned out there was a "balance
  pipe" between the cold water input to the boiler and the domestic
  hot water output. In the middle of that pipe was a gate valve that
  LOOKED just fine. No signs of even slight seepage from the stem.
  Only problem was that after 30 years, the gate was no longer
  there. It had corroded away, so no matter how tight you thought it
  was shut, it was always effectively wide open. I replaced it with
  a ball valve.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 7/8/2014 7:49 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
Joel,
 
Not
sure what heater I have.   It’s old, round, and white with a
black top.  It gets scalding hot after 20-30 of running
time.  My problem is that I get hot water out of both the
hot and cold faucets.  Something isn’t plumbed right, I
think.
 
Jake
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Tiller

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

When mine got damaged by being twisted with great force, I did quite a 
bit of asking around at places that advertise that they can make 
replacements for any tiller. None would do it. So I did it myself. 
Bought some teak and sliced it into 3/8" thick strips. Built a jig to 
form the shape and laminated the 4 strips clamped in the jig using West 
System 205 resin, a little 405 filler powder, and the SLOW 206 hardener. 
For gluing wood, you want the epoxy to cure slowly so it has a chance to 
really seep into the wood grain. Lots of clamps! The spacer at the back 
end is just some strips glued up into a block. The only design change I 
made was to extend the grip end by 4 inches. The reason for that was 
because the hiking stick on the original was mounted about an inch from 
the end, and I could not fit my hand in front of it. I also filled in 
the narrowest part of the split with thickened epoxy as I always found 
that narrow pointy gap a problem when refinishing. I think I have some 
pictures of the process. I'll look tonight and see if I can find them. I 
did consider making it from aluminum, but that tiller is one of the few 
pieces of teak on the boat, and it matters to the overall look of the boat.


Bill Bina


On 7/9/2014 1:10 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:

The tiller on my 27-V is on its last legsI'm going to replace it this 
winter and want to know the best place to order a new one from. It's design 
splits toward the aft end to hug the rudder and I don't see anything like it on 
stock shops. So custom is going to be the order of the day. How about 
composite?  No more maintenance.

Brent Driedger
27-5
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone
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.




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Re: Stus-List web site update

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
I recently added a Caframo Bora. It
  does a great job, has swivel and tilt, and draws almost nothing
  for power, even compared to my other trusty Caframo. folds flat
  against the ceiling when not in use. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 7/21/2014 5:58 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:


  
I am also shopping for fans. 
  Like the Caframo Sirroco 807 cause I can mount one in the vee
  berth and it can swing around and actually direct air from the
  forward hatch toward the main cabin.  Then swing back flat
  against the bulhead out of sight.  Haven't bought one so far
  but I'm close.  anybody know any problems w these?
 






Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 C&C 34R
  Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Cabin fans

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Yeah, my other Caframo is on a clip and
  I have a 10 foot cigarette lighter extension cord. I even use it
  in the cockpit on hot windless days. It's the model with no cage
  around the blade. I think it must be 10 years old by now. It has
  been used a lot, and shows no signs of fatigue. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 7/21/2014 6:52 PM, Dennis C. wrote:


  
  I have two Caframos and like them. Mount them with the add on
clips and plug them in via cigarette lighter plug.  Stow them
when not in use. 
  
  
  Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone
  
On Jul 21, 2014, at 5:37 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

  
  

  
  I recently added a Caframo Bora.
It does a great job, has swivel and tilt, and draws almost
nothing for power, even compared to my other trusty Caframo.
folds flat against the ceiling when not in use. 

Bill Bina

  
  


  


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Re: Stus-List : The platform question

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

This has been discussed at painful lengths and was settled long ago. A 
forum would break up this well established community and you would lose 
most of the brain-trust of long-time list members, who have been here 
CONTRIBUTING regularly for well over a decade. There are plenty of 
forums out there, if that is what you want. If you want the collective 
wisdom of all of the long-time regulars here, this is where you will 
find them. The website backs up the list with a permanent library of 
resources and articles pertaining to C&C


There is also a digest form of this list if that is your issue.

We don't need another 100 post thread about this. It has been discussed 
to death.


Bill Bina

On 10/31/2015 8:55 AM, Janko Puls via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Stu and everyone,

Did you ever consider switching the list into a forum?



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Stus-List 1980 C&C 32 Innisfree - Wilmington, DE

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

1980 C&C 32 - Innisfree - Wilmington, DE

HIN ZCC32053M80K

Does anybody know anything about this boat?


Bill Bina

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Re: Stus-List Now HIN

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

The M in the 4 character date code is a placeholder and has no meaning. 
The year indicated is not the model year. It is the year of 
certification. That basically means the date the build paperwork was 
generated. The date code does not indicate model year other than by 
coincidence, and it does not indicate the date completed.


Bill Bina

On 11/1/2015 10:55 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:

This is a quote from the Boatsafe site:

"the last four characters indicate the month and year the boat was
built, and the model year.   Prior to August 1, 1984, the manufacturer
had the option of expressing this in the form of a model year designation. "

I am not sure what is being said herethe last four characters
indicate the month and year the boat was built, and the model
year.so does that mean my boat (M84D) was built in April, 1984.D
means April..M means both the year the boat was built and also the
model year?

It goes on to say that prior to August 1, 1984, the manufacturer had the
option of expressing this in the form of a model year designation.
What does this mean if my boat was built prior to August 1, 1984if
my boat was built in  'D' in April?

I am even more confused..however, it really doesn't matter
...just hit the delete button.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-11-01 11:10 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


As I recall from prior posts on the list, and from reading the
explanation of HINs on the USCG website, there are at least three
different schemes for hull ID numbers that have been used over the
years. I believe that the explanation that Chuck included below is for
the current scheme.

On my old 38II, the last four characters are 0176, meaning the hell
was laid down (certified?) in January 1976, making the boat a 1976
model. The presumption was that boat model years were like car model
years – starting in September – so 0975 would be a 76 model and 0976
would be a 77.

But the September model year start would not meet the needs of
manufacturers with longer build lead times, so a Model year format was
started. M81D would be model year 81, with build started in month D. I
would need to look it up again, but I think A was August, B September,
etc. under this format.

Again, build schedules longer than 12 months would be a problem for
the system above. For example, Pacific Seacraft is about to launch the
first 62 footer, which was first laid down in the spring of 2013, with
a planned launch date of June 2014. (Thumper commented that the
customer doesn’t understand the “semi” part of semi-custom.)  So the
system was changed again. I suspect the last 4 characters of the HIN
for the new Seacraft 62 will be something like D315 or even D316.

Here is a website with a pretty complete explanation:
http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/hin.htm

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of
*robert via CnC-List
*Sent:* Sunday, November 01, 2015 8:21 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* robert 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List 1980 C&C 32 Innisfree - Wilmington, DE

Chuck:

Character 9 refers to the month..andcharacter 10 the year the
boat was certified.

In both of our HIN's, character 9 is 'M'but I can't find any
'M' in the "letters that correspond to the following months"

So I ask again, what do the 'K' and 'D' stand for.it says below
"The eleventh and twelfth characters refer to the model year".

Any other C&C 32 owners with the 12th character a 'K'?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-11-01 8:13 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:

I think the K means the hull was molded in November.

Found the HIN explained on the web:

Image removed by sender. Picture


The first 3 characters are what are referred to as the MIC or
Manufacturers Index Code.  There are several sites on the internet
that can help you decode the MIC of your HIN.  One such site is
through the US Coast Guards website
. Another option
that might be a bit easier to use is Boat History Report
which
hosts a free HIN validator to verify you have the correct HIN to
begin with.

The following 5 digits vary according the manufacturer but are
meant to be used as a serial number for that boat.  It may contain
specifics such as the length or material of the boat or it may
just be a sequential number.  Manufacturers are able to use any
series of numbers and letters except O, I and Q because they are
easily mistaken.

The last 4 characters of the HIN represent the certification year
and model of the watercraft.  Character 9 refers to the month and
character 10- the year, the boat was certified. Certification
means when the boat was stated to be in compliance with all laws
  

Re: Stus-List Removal of Datamarine depth transponder

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Just removed mine a few weeks ago. Actually I removed both my speed and 
my depth transducers. The speed transducer was bedded with some normal 
type of bedded and I had little trouble popping it out with some 
vigorous pounding with a 3 pound plastic deadblow hammer.


The depth transducer was apparently bedded with 3M 5200 and nothing 
would budge it even slightly. It was essentially welded in placed.


I finally gave up and used a 2 inch hole saw from outside and cut it 
out. The hole saw bottomed out before it was free, so I had to stop and 
hack out some of the transducer with a hammer and wood chisel before 
finishing up with the holesaw, which also left me with the 2 inch hole 
needed for the new transducer.


Needless to say, I bedded the new transducers with Lifeseal.

If your transducer is bedded with 5200, you will not be removing 
anything suitable for repair. Defender can sell you a replacement for 
around $100 or so. I went with a retractable model so I can pull it mid 
season for cleaning.


Bill Bina

On 11/25/2015 7:56 AM, Indigo via CnC-List wrote:

More on removal.
So I looked more closely at the transponder and found that it appeared to be held in 
place with a threaded "collar" - this came off easily. However the transponder 
itself won't budge.  I tried to tap the top of the transponder with a mallet, being 
careful not to damage the wire, but there was no noticible movement. There is a piece of 
plywood bonded to the inside of the hull which gives allows the collar to be screwed 
tight. The hole through the plywood is tight against the transponder, but I don't think 
tight enough to hold it in place against mallet taps.

Am I missing some other retainer - or it the through hull  itself threaded?


--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT


On Nov 9, 2015, at 06:32, Indigo  wrote:

I need to remove my Datamarine transponder to send it to DMI for repair.  Does anyone 
know how it is held in place in the through hull. I can't see any retaining pins etc - 
yet it has a "t" like handle which implies it should be removable with ease.

--
Jonathan
Indigo C&C 35III
SOUTHPORT CT


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Re: Stus-List substitution of depth transducers

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

If you skip the part where I wasted a lot of time and effort when I 
tried to remove the old transducer with a hammer, and go straight to the 
holesaw method, it is a 5 minute job and really not that hard. I would 
not bother trying to use the very old transducer.


Bill Bina

On 11/25/2015 10:27 PM, Eric Frank via CnC-List wrote:

I am replacing depth, speed and wind instruments on Cat’s Paw with i50
and i60 Raymarine instruments.  As noted in an ongoing thread, it is
difficult to remove the old depth transducer, so is it possible to use
the old one with the new Raymarine display?  The old transducer is for a
Signet Scientific MK172 instrument, which is probably more than 12 years
old but still works fine.  In the manual, it states that “The
transmitter produces six pulses per second at an amplitude of 450 volts
peak·to·peak with 63 watts of power output per pulse. The high power
output is obtained by charging a large capacitor to build a large
current flow without heavy drain from the external power source. The
frequency is adjustable from 160 to 200 kHz but is set at the factory
for 200 kHz nominal.”  The transducer that came with the Raymarine
instruments is an Airmar P319, listed on the tag on its cable as 50/200
KHz. That transducer also measures temperature, but I would be happy to
forgo that if I didn’t have to change the transducer.  Is there a way of
testing if the old transducer works with the new display while the boat
is on the hard (for the winter)?  What happens if you test a transducer
when it is completely out of water?  Would it harm the Raymarine
instrument to be connected to the old transducer?

Eric Frank
Cat's Paw
C&C 35 Mk II
Mattapoisett, MA



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Re: Stus-List little A&H hatches on a LF38

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Try hatchmasters.com  They seem to have replacement parts for just about 
all hatches, including ones from dead companies. They also repair and 
refurbish hatches. HINT: A phone call may reveal parts not listed on the 
website! They also could no doubt make you some new lenses.


Bill Bina

On 12/1/2015 5:29 PM, Dreuge via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,

I need to replace the lens on the little hatches in the galley and head.
  I believe these are Atkins & Hoyle model 550 single frame hatches
(discontinued).

Does anyone know of a reasonable source for new lenses?   I contacted
A&H and they want $325 for a single lens.   Or has anyone made their own
replacement lenses?  For the most part they look like 1/2” grey acrylic
15-1/4” x 8”  with a routered gasket groove on the inside.  Making the
groove would seem tricky.


Here is a photo:
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cQwWT5f4T5s/VlxR-3M0xvI/IR0/31kUx-Mliz0/s1600/%2B-%2BVersion%2B2.jpg



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/



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Re: Stus-List Starting to 'smile'

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

The seam could be thin enough that you didn't see it until the bottom 
paint dried out and shrinkage of the paint revealed the seam. I don't 
think the weight of the boat has anything to do with it. Although some 
on the list figure they are okay as long as no water gets to the bidge, 
the real issue is whether water ever touches the keel bolts. You don;t 
want that to happen, so I recommend properly torquing the keelbolts, 
grinding and filling the immediate seam area with thickened epoxy 
(peanut butter consistency) and then wrapping the keel from about a foot 
above to about a foot below the seam with several layers of fiberglass 
bandage and epoxy. I did this over 10 years ago and it seems to be a 
very permanent fix. I've even had a few soft groundings without issue. 
My guess is that the bolts could now be removed and the epoxy/glass 
bandage would hold the keel on by itself. I do not recommend testing 
that theory, but I believe it is likely true.


In my case, the seam had been ground and filled with 5200 previously. I 
removed that with a wire wheel chucked in my drill. That left a nice and 
very rough surface for the epoxy mix I re-filled it with to mechanically 
bond.


Bill Bina

On 12/20/2015 12:25 PM, Ainslie via CnC-List wrote:

I acquired ‘Spirit’ this past summer, so I’ve just gone through my first
haul-out. I examined the hull very carefully for blisters (none), and
checked the keel for the C&C smile- also none. When I went to check on
her this past week, I can now see a hair-line crack starting to appear
where I think the keel-stub is. My question is: did I just miss it on my
first inspection, or could this be a result of improper loading on the
cradle, ie: too much of the boat’s weight being supported on the keel?
If so, would it help to ratchet up the support pads to relieve the
weight somewhat? I’m going to talk to the yard guys this week, but it
would be good to have other owners’ thoughts. Thanks!

**

*Jason Ainslie*

*1984 C&C 35 Mk-III “Spirit”*

*Bayfield YC*

*Bluewater, Ontario*



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Re: Stus-List Engine Room Original Paint

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

If it does have lead in it, there are precautions for sanding it safely. 
The sanding dust will contain lead. You can find out easily if it has 
lead by purchasing a simple lead test kit at any hardware or home 
improvement store. It's basically a pen that you run along the surface 
and then see if the pen tip changes color.


Bill Bina

On 1/5/2016 8:56 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List wrote:

I've been cleaning up the engine room, which has included some sanding
of the original paint in there. Is there any chance that paint has lead
in it?
Thanks in advance,
--Bob Moriarty
Ox 1976 33-1
Jax, FL


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Re: Stus-List Lexan hychcovers in GTA

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

The exact material is important. It is cast, not extruded, and make very 
sure it is also UV stabilized. Otherwise it will only last about one 
summer before it crazes.


Bill Bina

On 1/8/2016 11:25 AM, W7218 via CnC-List wrote:

Good Morning

I need to replace the Lexan/plexiglass companionway cover on a C&C 32.
Can anyone recommend a source in the Western Toronto to Hamilton area
for getting this stuff and having it cut to size?  I have tried Oakville
glass but they only have the clear material.  I need something called
"bronzed".

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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
An important part of the history of the
  list is the WHY of how it came to be. Originally, Stu's website
  was photos and scans, etc, and C&C owners all followed a list
  sponsored by Sailnet. Sailnet got sold out from under us, and
  after a lengthy discussion hauntingly similar to this one, it was
  decided that no one wanted to move to another group hosted outside
  of something that one of us owned and could hand off to another
  member if that ever became necessary. Without this decision, we
  would have gone in multiple directions and died off as a group. At
  that time, there were more than one C&C forums available. We
  needed ONE common point of communication in order to keep going. I
  think the list as it is has worked great, and see no advantage to
  going to a clumsy forum, that would also be competing with
  dime-a-dozen facebook groups and other web based options. If Stu
  is having issues maintaining the list, then lets address those
  issues rather than throwing out the baby with the bathwater. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 3/14/2015 7:37 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
  
Stu,
First, thank you for all the work
you have put into setting up the list and maintaining it.  I
am glad this topic has come up.  It is somewhat difficult to
follow multiple emails which usually repeat what has already
been said.  If it could be done, I’d enthusiastically vote
for a forum.
The town that I live in has a
social networking forum called Nextdoor Harvard.  See https://harvardma.nextdoor.com/about_us/. 
  We have about 6000 residents of
which about 2000 have signed up for Nextdoor Harvard.  There
is no cost to operate the forum and it is very flexible.
I get one email a day that
summarizes new topics and new replies for that day.  (One
can select getting new topics as they are posted.)  If you
reply to a topic, you’ll automatically get other replies as
they occur.  There is a method to control who can be a
member.  You can browse by topic.  There is provision to
store documents for download and a classified section.  
If you are interested, I’ll
contact Nextdoor to see if they would allow a ‘neighborhood’
of boat owners.  I can also find out from the guy who
maintains the forum, what effort is required.
 
Regards,
Ron
Ronald
V. Ricci
S/V
Patriot
C&C
37+
Bristol,
RI

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Email List or Forum

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

An important part of the history of the list is the WHY of how it came 
to be. Originally, Stu's website was photos and scans, etc, and C&C 
owners all followed a list sponsored by Sailnet. Sailnet got sold out 
from under us, and after a lengthy discussion hauntingly similar to this 
one, it was decided that no one wanted to move to another group hosted 
outside of something that one of us owned and could hand off to another 
member if that ever became necessary. Without this decision, we would 
have gone in multiple directions and died off as a group. At that time, 
there were more than one C&C forums available. We needed ONE common 
point of communication in order to keep going. I think the list as it is 
has worked great, and see no advantage to going to a clumsy forum, that 
would also be competing with dime-a-dozen facebook groups and other web 
based options. If Stu is having issues maintaining the list, then lets 
address those issues rather than throwing out the baby with the bathwater.


Bill Bina

On 3/14/2015 7:37 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote:

Stu,

First, thank you for all the work you have put into setting up the list
and maintaining it.  I am glad this topic has come up.  It is somewhat
difficult to follow multiple emails which usually repeat what has
already been said.  If it could be done, I’d enthusiastically vote for a
forum.

The town that I live in has a social networking forum called Nextdoor
Harvard.  See https://harvardma.nextdoor.com/about_us/. We have about
6000 residents of which about 2000 have signed up for Nextdoor Harvard.
There is no cost to operate the forum and it is very flexible.

I get one email a day that summarizes new topics and new replies for
that day.  (One can select getting new topics as they are posted.)  If
you reply to a topic, you’ll automatically get other replies as they
occur.  There is a method to control who can be a member.  You can
browse by topic.  There is provision to store documents for download and
a classified section.

If you are interested, I’ll contact Nextdoor to see if they would allow
a ‘neighborhood’ of boat owners.  I can also find out from the guy who
maintains the forum, what effort is required.

Regards,

/Ron/

Ronald V. Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com 



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Re: Stus-List Forum vs Email list = no contest - FORUM!

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

If anyone is keeping track of the sentiments, I hope they are giving 
double or triple weight to votes and opinions by those like Jim Watts, 
Wally, Dennis C, etc, who are the most active regular posters. Many of 
the people coming out of the woodwork to voice an opinion on this are 
names I don't recall seeing here posting about anything else... at least 
not often enough for me to recognize their email addresses.


Bill Bina

On 3/14/2015 1:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote:

Facebook? Count me out.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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Stus-List Annual fund drive?

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

It occurs to me that we leave Stu in financial limbo much of the time. 
Over the years, I've sporadically made donations, but maybe, like public 
radio, we need to have a declared fundraiser around the same time every 
year with a stated goal that must be reached before the fundraiser 
stops. The goal should be high enough to cover normal expenses PLUS the 
inevitable upgrades and other costs incurred.


Stu does so much work for us, that it seems only fair that he should 
never have to dig in his own pocket for anything related to the website 
or list. I have no idea what Stu spends every year, but maybe we can 
find out, and do a gofundme.com campaign with a goal thermometer or gas 
gauge every year as part of spring commissioning season.


I think having something that graphically shows fundraising progress 
towards the goal is important. That would let people check to see if we 
are doing enough, or if we need to push harder. Some might see the 
thermometer moving too slowly and go back again with a little more cash 
to keep it moving. There will always be some who don't participate, so 
those that do, need to realize their donations need to be a little 
higher to cover that.


Bill Bina





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Re: Stus-List 37 stemhead casting

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

When I needed the boom end of the gooseneck for my 27-5, it took them a 
couple days to go look in storage, but they found a brand new casting 
that had not even had the final holes drilled and machining done on it.


Bill Bina

On 3/16/2015 1:16 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

Pete,

did you try South Shore Yachts? They have many original parts.

Joel

On Mon, Mar 16, 2015 at 12:57 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I’m looking for a stemhead casting, sometimes called a bowplate,for
a early 80s vintage 37.  Please forwardsalvage yards or other
sources you may be aware of.




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Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

A disposable lighter works just fine for that. I have even used a match.

Bill Bina

On 3/28/2015 6:04 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List wrote:

Does anyone have a recommendation for a cordless heat-gun to shrink the
tubing  / melt glue on 12V electrical crimp connections?
I want cordless as my boat is normally on a mooring. I've come across a
couple on the internet, but it's hard to judge if they are any good.
By the way - big thank you to whoever posted that link to
www.marinehowto.com  - fascinating reading,
and I learned so much! I also now know who to go to if I am doing any
major electrical work on my boat (he lives in Maine).
Damian Greene
C&C 34 GHOST
Bass Harbor, Maine



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Re: Stus-List Cordless heat gun for heat-shrink tubing

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Skip the solder. If a connection overheats due to resistance, the solder 
can melt and drip to short to other wires or components. The other 
reason not to solder wires in a boat is that the solder wicks down the 
wire a little, creating a stiff point that will eventually crack in half 
from movement or vibration. It is against code. Tinned wire made for 
marine use tins the individual strands of the wire before they are 
twisted together to maintain flexibility.


Bill Bina

On 3/28/2015 8:18 AM, Danny Haughey wrote:

I picked up a portable torch.  It came with a few attachments to use a
suffering iron and different flame configurations.  It's refillable with
butane.  Basically a big lighter on steroids.  Works great.  I can crimp
a connector, drop a little solder on it and then heat shrink it.

Danny.


 From my Android phone




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Re: Stus-List bedding of windows

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

The same tape is also available at Hamilton Marine, and possibly 
Defender. The Brand name is Bed-It. Not the same as similar looking 
butyl tape found in autoparts or home improvement stores.




Bill Bina

On 5/26/2015 11:55 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:

if you plan to use butyl tape, I would strongly recommend trying Maine
Sail’s product. I think he ships it free in the US. In Canada, the cost
of shipping is somewhat prohibitive (if I recall, the s&h would be more
then the tape itself). But it is possible to make a bigger order and share.
I got his product and I am happy. Of course, ymmv.
Marek
*From:* Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, May 26, 2015 7:25 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Rick Rohwer 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List bedding of windows
After using _Butyl tape_ for the first time on my dodger window install,
I follow the recommendation of so many folks I met in Canada last summer
and would encourage you to try this product for hatches windows or any
of the deck sealant issue you might have.  The savings in clean up alone
is immense and I think it makes for a much more dependable seal.  As for
the life of the product, I am only onto it about 2 weeks, but everyone I
met last summer were really hyped up about it.  Marine stores have it
(West Marine will order it), but ebay has various colors and thicknesses
for mucho cheaper.  I made quite an investment in my 20 foot roll,
Rick Rohwer
C&C 37+ Paikea
Poulsbo, WA  (until manana and then only the wind and God knows for sure)

On May 26, 2015, at 7:06 AM, robert via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Adam:

We installed new cabin windows about 6 years ago..it's not rocket
science but it was labor intensive.  I am assuming your windows are
flush with the side of the cabin top with no frames and/or screws or
other fastenersthat the way they are on the 32's .  Our windows
leaked and the only sure way to stop it was to replace them.

Some time back, I posted on this list, the step by step process we
used however it is not on my new laptop ..I will check to see if
it is still on my old laptop and send it to you.

Where is your boat now?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-05-25 2:45 PM, Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote:

Jim

Sorry about the reply on the last thread I could hardly follow
the replys and I know better.   The ports are as you described sealed
into a moulded  recess on the cabin top.   I think actually from your
description now I understand how they will come out.

I am doing a complete refit of the boat so I will add it to the list
of projects. Although the refit is mostly done.

Mike, we bought Silver Tassie last fall.  No comments please on
her condition.  :)

Adam



Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List AirBnB boat

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

On 5/28/2015 6:08 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List wrote:

A home got trashed here in Calgary a few weeks ago.
I think it was around $200K in damages. (AirBnB came up good for it though!)

sam :-)



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Re: Stus-List MkV Pintle and Gudgeons

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

It is indeed, originally a 1/2 inch diameter pin in a 1/2 inch diameter 
hole. On mine, the portion on the rudder is still a nice close fit. Just 
the holes in the gudgeon are enlarged. I did use some 1/2 inch shrink 
tubing at one time to make up the difference. There really is not room 
for anything thicker. It seems so loose, but it really is not much of a 
gap at all. Just enough for an annoying clunk-clunk-clunk all night long 
of I don't wedge a length of pool noodle between the rudder and transom 
before turning in for the night.


There is likewise, not enough meat to comfortably enlarge the gudgeon 
holes to fit thicker bushings. The only option would be to reduce the 
pin to 7/16 inch to allow for a slightly thicker bushing than the very 
thin shrink tubing. Note that the shrink tubing can not be a continuous 
piece the length of the pin, as it will not fit through the hole in the 
rudder piece. Not nearly as simple a problem as it might seem. I may 
even remove the piece over next winter and have Garhaur or some other 
machine shop make me new ones using my old one as a model. If I take 
that route, I will have them make it with a thicker wall, and room for 
replaceable generic plastic bushings.


Bill Bina

On 5/31/2015 10:05 AM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List wrote:

The setup appears to be metal on metal. I'm not sure there is much space
if any to squeeze a bushing in there.

Brent
Lake Winnipeg.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 30, 2015, at 8:30 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Delrin would be better, nylon swells when wet. Any vaguely competent
machinist should be able to make them.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 29 May 2015 at 15:25, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I would try nylon bushings before replacing.  Had them on my
Rhodes 19.  Jerry. 27mkv.   J&J

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 29, 2015, at 6:18 PM, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>
> Good day.
> I'm noticing year after year there is more and more play in my
transom hung rudder. The 27 MkV has some pretty heavy duty
hardware which I believe we're made by Schaefer. I'd like to
replace them.  My web search is leading me nowhere useful. Has
anyone replaced theirs and what did you use.
> Cheers
>
> Brent Driedger
> 27 MkV
> Lake Winnipeg.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Regulator

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

MPPT regulators do indeed offer a noticeable benefit with small panels. 
The problem is that many regulators advertised as MPPT do not actually 
have MPPT circuitry within. Buy a Genasun MPPT regulator!


Bill Bina



On 6/2/2015 3:24 PM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List wrote:

As you begin to regulate higher amperage and voltage you can have the
same considerations as alternator regulators and smart chargers.

Battery type influencing bulk and float voltages ... can they be
programmed or adjusted on the cheapest regulator.

Do you need a way to dump to some shunt when batteries are fully charged
... usually not a problem for solar but significant for wind.

MPPT controllers converting over-voltage typical in solar to useful
amp-hours at standard voltages gives higher efficiency in good
conditions if you need it ... at a modest price premium.

Ed

Prime Interest
1982 LF38

Toronto

On Jun 2, 2015 2:59 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List"
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Bob,

I haven’t, but I want the ability to move up to a stronger panel if
I need to.

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 












On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:57 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

15 watt is so small I wonder if you even need one.  Have you
measured the voltage output from the solar panel?

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 

"There is nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
simply messing about in boats."  --Kenneth Grahame

On Jun 2, 2015, at 2:54 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Listers,

I’m looking for a decent charge controller for my 15W solar panel
running to my house bank. There seems to be so many choices out
there landing from a few bucks to over $60.

What should I be looking for? Will this one work well enough?

http://www.amazon.com/Controller-Battery-Regulator-Protection-Controle/dp/B00UTECG5O/ref=sr_1_30?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433271044&sr=1-30&keywords=solar+panel+regulator+12V



All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log













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Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ Repower -- Ugh

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Check with Joe Demers at Sound Marine Diesel in CT. Country's biggest 
Beta dealer and he is a wizard with all makes. His prices are generally 
a little better since he sells so many engines.


http://www.soundmarinediesel.com/

Bill Bina

On 6/24/2015 4:25 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Charlie,

The Enterprise’s displacement is 18,500 and Farron at Beta thought that
the 30 would be the best fit to get the boat to it’s normal 7+ knots
under power with the two-blade prop.

I’m having trouble reconciling the $14,000 price tag (engine, shipping,
est. labor), but the idea of a new engine is attractive as well as being
back on the water in a couple of weeks. For a rebuild, I think I’m
looking at, at best, mid August.

I’m trying to hunt down a replacement in a better price range.

PS — Thanks to Lister Josh Muckley for a lead at dieselenginetrader.com
. Al doesn’t have a M-35 in stock, so I’m
looking at 4-6 weeks with him.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 












On Jun 24, 2015, at 3:55 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Just a thought Edd:
I repowered my 13,600 lb displacement C&C 36 XL/kcb (1995) with a Beta
25 after the Yanmar 30 GM?
blew a head gasket at about 11 years of use (operator/system error!).
It was a perfect match as well and all-in it was about $10K including
install, etc.
I bring it up only because your 37 is probably not much more
displaement than  my 36 and the Beta 25 gets mine to hull speed
in any coastal weather I would care to be in!
You might at least run that by the Beta guru, who I agree is excellent.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
cenel...@aol.com 




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Re: Stus-List Handrail question

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I bought new handrails from TeakMarineWoodwork.com and they were very 
nice pieces of wood. Just be sure to specify that you do NOT want the 
standard oil finish if you are planning to varnish or use other types of 
finish. I also discovered on my boat that C&C had not used a ruler when 
they drilled the holes for the originals. They were not all exactly 12" 
on center. Check for that before you start drilling any holes in your 
new rails! The bases of the new rails are long enough to accommodate the 
discrepancies.


Bill Bina

On 7/7/2015 8:57 PM, Arnold Griesel via CnC-List wrote:

Neil,

1982 C&C 32 #109 has 12" inch center handrails.  They are hard to find.  This 
is one place that has  them.

http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm

We have one broken too.  I thank our local cabinet shop can make them!

Arnold  {:-(





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Re: Stus-List One for the hams in the group

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

google: ham stick antennas

There are lots of similar ones and even youtube videos showing how to 
make one yourself.


Bill Bina

On 7/8/2015 6:43 PM, Andrew Frame via CnC-List wrote:


I see the company that made the original hamstick is gone. Is anyone
else making them now? Or similar?





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Re: Stus-List solar vent wiggles, doesn't rotate

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I have a 1986 27-V. I have a 1/2 diameter hole in the head area where 
the VHF cable passes through. I'll see if I can get some sort of 
measurement of the thickness this weekend. I would guess from memory 
that it is probably about 3/4 inch thick, and it is definitely cored.


Bill Bina

On 7/14/2015 4:55 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List wrote:

Has anyone installed a Nicro solar vent through the cabin roof over the
head?  Is the cabin roof cored?  About how thick?  I have an 1986 27-V.
   Jerry.



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Re: Stus-List Off topic Windows 10

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I have a digital recording studio in my house. You would be amazed at 
how much hardware, as well as software, from the trivial to the major, 
is not supported by Win10. What is the hurry? Let Win10 ripen for as 
long as possible until you actually need it. Then again, thank you to 
the impatient early adopters for jumping in early and finding the 
problems (the hard and painful way) that will be fixed a year or two 
from now. Some present hardware will never be supported. How many 
flatbed scanners went to the recycler when Win7 didn't support them, 
although they worked perfectly in XP?


Bill Bina

On 8/7/2015 5:41 AM, Steve Sharkey via CnC-List wrote:

I would expect that it would support a wide variety of hardware, but how
about programs that were loaded on your computer?  Quicken, video
editing, navigation programs, etc?
Steve
*From:* Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Thursday, August 06, 2015 1:07 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Marek Dziedzic 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Off topic Windows 10
Generally, no (no need to do an upgrade).
Be careful, though, with anything requiring special drivers (GPS
receivers (they are all “special”), any extraordinary WLAN adapters
(e.g. some of the special “extended range” ones), any older (and
obsoleted) h/w (e.g. some older printers, scanners etc.), many security
devices (e.g. finger print readers).
Marek
*From:* Steve Sharkey via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Thursday, August 06, 2015 12:47 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* Steve Sharkey 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Off topic Windows 10
Joel,
I'd be interested in how other programs run with it or whether you have
to do upgrades on those as well.
Steve
On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 9:18 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I installed Windows 10 onto my Lenovo laptop with Win 7, Install was
flawless. Made sure that OpenCPN runs as well as Office apps.  The
new browser will import bookmarks from another browser in seconds.
I did not have a chance to play with it much, but first look is very
positive.
--
Joel
301 541 8551 

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Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

A reading of only 12 volts on the battery cable when not under the load 
of turning the starter indicates a fairly dead battery.


Bill Bina



-- Forwarded message --
From: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
To: CnC CnC discussion list mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
Cc:
>
1.  The buttons both tested fine in terms of their switch function.
We then tested power at the engine.




There is a heavy red cable

coming from the battery to the starter measured 12V.





The red-yellow

wire from the start button is attached to what I am presuming is the
solenoid (the wiring diagram in the manual does not show a
solenoid).  We only measured 8 volts at the solenoid when the button
is pushed, but 12 volts everywhere else.  So that probably explains
the fact that both the glow plugs and starter won’t work at the same
time because we appear to be losing 4 volts in the solenoid.  I will
pull the starter next winter and have someone test it unless someone
has an alternative suggestion.

2.  The wiring diagram in the manual (Fig 2 on page 13) shows the
power from the key switch coming into the glow plug button and then
a wire from the other lead to the start button.  The manual shows
that wire running from the downstream side of the glow plug switch
so that the start button should only be energized when the glow plug
button is pushed (as the manual describes).  If that were the case,
the I would not be able to start the engine with only the start
button.  Nevertheless, it does start the engine.  Tracing the wires,
we found that the bridging wire actually came from the hot side of
the glow plug switch, so that either button will work independently
as both are always powered.  What I don’t understand is why you
would wire it the other way (as the manual shows) since that would
remove the ability to start the engine without the glow plugs (as in
an already warm engine).  I don’t know if the PO or some yard
mechanic made that change or if it is indicated wrong in the manual,
so I am curious how other Universal panels are wired.  The way it is
actually wired makes more sense to me than what is in the manual
unless I am missing something.

Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List Baby Stay on 30-2

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I terminated mine with a pelican hook. Works great.

Bill Bina

On 8/18/2015 5:29 PM, allen via CnC-List wrote:

Readying Septima for some fall cruising. Given the milder winds here, I
would like to have a quick disconnect on the base of the baby stay so I
can tie it off to the mast freeing space to bring the dink up on the
foredeck.
What hardware is best in this application?
Allen Miles
s/v Septima
Hampton, VA





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Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I have a set of winchers. After installing them, I didn't find them all 
that useful EXECEPT that they do provide a bit of protection when you 
bang your shin or knee on the winch. I left them on for that feature alone.


Bill Bina

On 9/7/2015 6:15 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:



I had them on my C&C 24 and I could not make them to work. I removed them.
But ymmv.
Marek


Sent from my Samsung device over Bell's LTE network.

 Original message 
From: David Knecht via CnC-List 
Date: 2015-09-07  18:07  (GMT-05:00)
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Barient ST 32's

What about $50 for Winchers 
(http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C118%7C2358547%7C2358555&id=899493)?
  I am considering trying one for one of my cabin top small secondaries.  I have 
read that they work.  Dave

Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT




On Sep 7, 2015, at 5:05 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
wrote:
Pairs of used self tailers on eBay go for $1000-1800 depending on size.  
(There's a pair of 60 ST's out there now for $1700.)



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Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

That price is for a 3-pack. :-)

Bill Bina

On 9/24/2015 7:44 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

This is true, and That is where I got mine, but I don’t think they cost
27 bucks – I did this this summer, and it took a few tries to find one
slim enough, and at that I had to file off some plastic on the edges.
C&C used the tiniest boxes they could find.

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie


*Subject:* Re: Stus-List GFCI Outlet

Leviton has a "slim profile GFCI outlet that fits in tight boxes.




Bill Bina



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Re: Stus-List Prop size/pitch for a Yanmar 1GM10 in a 27 MkII

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Before entering the water at ANY dock
  in a marina, read and understand this issue:
  
http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/magazine/2013/july/electric-shock-drowning-explained.asp
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 8/17/2014 12:54 PM, Paul Baker via CnC-List wrote:


  
  The water here rarely gets above 45F,
a little chilly for diving unless you have a dry suit etc.
I'll see if I can find a diver that will do it for a reasonable
amount.
Cheers,
Paul


On 14-08-17 05:28 AM, Curtis via CnC-List wrote:
  
  
Here in Beaufort South Carolina we have to clean
  the bottom every three to 4 weeks otherwise it fouls the
  bottom. If you hold for 5 weeks here you will start getting
  hard growth.  Do like I did and learn to do it your self. You
  can save a lot of cash and know the job is done right. My
  C&C30 MK1 can be done by free diving. No scuba tanks
  needed. However it makes it easier so I do use the scuba
  method
   .   
  You will need to keep the bottom clean to reach the
correct hull speed and correct RPM's for your Yanmar. 
  I have the Yanmar 2GM20F in my Boat. If I let the bottom
go past time to clean the bottom go very long The Engine
will show it
  .When you go to the boat and warm up the engine, Look at
your rudder see if it has a film or a light carpet on it. If
so you are right on time for a cleaning.One other thing some
folks forget is to keep a clean air filter in the boat. If
the engine cant breath she will blow black smoke.
  Cheers
  

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Engine Sound Insulation - Go Without?

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Soundproofing?
  
  http://www.silentrunning.us/
  
http://www.silentrunning.us/Professional_Boat_Builder_SR_Article.pdf
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 8/27/2014 2:42 AM, RPH via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Update: Tonight I removed the sound insulation from the sides
of the engine compartment. Let me tell you - it was a dirty
mess. Surprisingly, it is possible for a substance to be both
dusty and oily at the same time. On the bright side, after
removing the old, crumbling insulation I was able to give the
little Yanmar and the engine compartment a good cleaning. It
looks 100% better now and I think it will be easier to keep the
engine clean.
  
  
  I can't report on the noise yet as I'm waiting on an exhaust
elbow at the moment. Even if it's a little noisier under power,
I think that it may be worth it just to have a little more room
in the engine compartment (it's amazing what an extra couple of
inches can give you in a cramped space) . On the other hand, if
the racket proves to be intolerable, I'll report back with a
warning to others who might be contemplating taking the same
steps. 
  
  
  Thanks to everyone for the helpful feedback. 
  
  
  Robert H. 
  


  


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Re: Stus-List C&C Ball Cap

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
I was just thinking the other day that
  mine is nearing retirement condition and could use replacement!
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 8/28/2014 6:36 PM, RPH via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Everytime I visit the C&C Photo Album website, I visit the
  online chandlery and gaze longingly at the coveted C&C Ball
  Cap that is "temporarily" out of stock. Oh, how lucky are those of
  you who posses such a fine headpiece! 
  
  
  Will it ever be restocked? Please give me hope. 


  


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Re: Stus-List C&C NE Rendezvous 2015

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Milford is one of those places where drawing no more than 5 feet is
VERY helpful, if not mandatory. Unless they have dredged it in the
last 5 years or so, there were several sand humps near the mouth of
the river that my keel would bump on my way in or out unless it was
high tide. The town operated marina at the head of the harbor is
nice, but likewise very shallow. Really just for daytripping
powerboats. They had a few (3?) deeper slips, but I was in one of
those and woke up at low tide to find I was firmly stuck in over a
foot of mud with my 5 foot draft. A scuba diver happened by, and he
stood up at the end of my slip. The water was somewhere between his
belly button and chest! Not kidding. Too bad, because the town
operated slips are directly on the restaurant district and the price
was right. There is a nice privately owned marina, Milford Boatworks
& Marina, just down from the town facility, with deeper slips,
but it is a little further from the restaurants and business areas
and costs a bit more. I would call them about the shoaling situation
before making any plans. 

Danfords Marina in Port Jeff might be able to accommodate you with
enough lead time, but $ KA-CHING! It is a great setup, though.
Right in the heart of the village with tons of boutiques and
restaurants. 

Bill Bina

On 9/7/2014 10:50 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
John,
  
  
   Not
to speak for the group, but I think one of the more fun aspects
of a rendezvous is the dock meet ups and walking around
exploring other’s boats — which is kind of lost on moorings or
raft-ups. 
  
  
   Port
Jeff is a great location, but there’s only one really good
marina and they often seem pretty packed with boats — not sure
they could group a bunch of C&Cs together. 
  
  
   Clinton
is a nice place, but it is pretty far east and a little tricky
to get into. However, I don’t want to lose the attendance of
those coming from places like Eastern CT or MA either. 
  
  
   Milford
could be a good option, being right in the middle of the Sound.

  

  
   All the best,
  
  
   Edd
  
  
  
  
   Edd M. Schillay
   Starship Enterprise
   C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City Island, NY 

  
   Starship
  Enterprise's Captain's Log


  


  


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Re: Stus-List C&C NE Rendezvous 2015

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
I would verify depths in Milford by
  calling first. I truly have no idea how anyone with 8' draft gets
  in and out even at the apex of high tide. I'm sure they must have
  done some serious dredging since I stopped going there about 5
  years ago, or what you are saying would not even be believable!  :-) 
  
  Here's an article from 2013 saying that they have dredged the town
  slips to get them to 5-7 feet. Most of them were more like 2 feet
  the last time I was there, and I was in their "deepest slip" which
  turned out to be less than 4 feet at low tide.
  
  Active Captain has a warning about the entrance channel to the
  inlet being 2 feet deep in spots. It may be that they have fixed
  it, but I'd want confirmation from someone legitimately in charge
  in Milford. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 9/7/2014 6:43 PM, Tim Goodyear wrote:


  
  
  

We've stayed overnight in Milford several times over the
  last couple of years (6'6" draft) with no issues, an there is
  a Nelson Marek 42 (Secret) that races out of Port Milford that
  draws 8', so if you're careful you should be OK.  We love Port
  Jefferson, and normally pick up a mooring at the Setauket
  Yacht Club; they run launch services from 8:00 to midnight,
  and I don't 
        
  On Sep 7, 2014, at 5:42 PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:
  


  

Milford is one of those places where drawing no more than 5
feet is VERY helpful, if not mandatory. Unless they have
dredged it in the last 5 years or so, there were several
sand humps near the mouth of the river that my keel would
bump on my way in or out unless it was high tide. The town
operated marina at the head of the harbor is nice, but
likewise very shallow. Really just for daytripping
powerboats. They had a few (3?) deeper slips, but I was in
one of those and woke up at low tide to find I was firmly
stuck in over a foot of mud with my 5 foot draft. A scuba
diver happened by, and he stood up at the end of my slip.
The water was somewhere between his belly button and chest!
Not kidding. Too bad, because the town operated slips are
directly on the restaurant district and the price was right.
There is a nice privately owned marina, Milford Boatworks
& Marina, just down from the town facility, with deeper
slips, but it is a little further from the restaurants and
business areas and costs a bit more. I would call them about
the shoaling situation before making any plans. 

Danfords Marina in Port Jeff might be able to accommodate
you with enough lead time, but $ KA-CHING! It is a great
setup, though. Right in the heart of the village with tons
of boutiques and restaurants. 

Bill Bina

On 9/7/2014 10:50 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
John,
  
  
  
Not to speak for the group, but I think one of
the more fun aspects of a rendezvous is the dock meet
ups and walking around exploring other’s boats — which
is kind of lost on moorings or raft-ups. 
  
  
  
Port Jeff is a great location, but there’s only
one really good marina and they often seem pretty packed
with boats — not sure they could group a bunch of
C&Cs together. 
  
  
  
Clinton is a nice place, but it is pretty far
east and a little tricky to get into. However, I don’t
want to lose the attendance of those coming from places
like Eastern CT or MA either. 
  
  
  
Milford could be a good option, being right in
the middle of the Sound.
 

  
   All the best,
  
  
   Edd
  
  
  
  
   Edd M.
Schillay
   Starship
Enterprise
   C&C 37+
| Sail No: NCC-1701-B
   City
Island, NY 

 

Re: Stus-List Window replacement (cross posted from 34-36 group

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

If Plexis has lasted 20-30 years, why take a risk on something with less of
a track record? Seems as if Plexis has Proven itself to last plenty long.
On Oct 4, 2014 8:45 AM, "Indigo via CnC-List"  wrote:

> How are the windows attached in the new generation of C&c's?  While Plexus
> may have been the adhesive of choice 30+ years ago when my boat was built,
> I suspect adhesive technologies have advanced since then and that others
> may do a better job.
>
> --
> Jonathan
> Indigo C&C 35III
> SOUTHPORT CT
>
> On Oct 3, 2014, at 20:39, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Eric,
>
>
>
> This subject has come up in the past many, many times.  I suggest a trip
> to the archives before we return to this discussion.  My preferred method
> is Plexus.  I’ve done the job twice and it works as advertised.  Others
> have had success with other products, but C&C used Plexus.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Eric Baumes via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, October 03, 2014 3:33 PM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Subject:* Stus-List Window replacement (cross posted from 34-36 group
>
>
>
> Hello,
>
>
>
> I think my winter project this year will be to replace the windows on the
> boat. They are pretty badly pitted and have vertical splits in the windows.
>
>
>
> Any advise on taking on this task.
>
>
>
> It looks like South Shore Yachts will create these based on a paper
> template.
>
>
>
> I am wondering how to get the old windows off without destroying the deck
> and how to glue the new ones in.
>
>
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> Hee Soo
>
> C&C 36/36+
>
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Re: Stus-List Window replacement

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
My experience has been that my windows
  were redone when my 1986 boat was about 13 years old, and now, 15
  years after that, I have zero leaks. That is why I question the
  eagerness to experiment. For me, Plexis has proven itself. If you
  had to replace your windows after only 5 years and they were
  leaking even before that, I suspect a problem with the
  installation, not the Plexis.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  
  On 10/4/2014 9:53 PM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
If Plexis has lasted 20-30 years,
  why take a risk on something with 

less of a track record? Seems as
  if Plexis has Proven itself to last 

plenty long.


I have owned my boat for 28 years, buying it from the original
owner when it was 3 years old.  I know I replaced the windows
the first time within the first 8 years or so, then again about
5 years later, then another time before I made the final
upgrade.  And between change outs, I had a lot of leaks.  Plexus
has been around for 20-30 years but it doesn't last 20-30 years!
  
  
  Bob

Bob Boyer

  S/V Rainy Days / Annapolis MD
  1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230
  email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
  blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com


  
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Having used Suncor for my lifelines where they worked well, I would not 
consider them as safe for standing rigging. They are very easy to work 
with, but they are not nearly as secure as sta-lok fittings. I don't 
think Suncor intends or markets them for high tension shrouds and stays.


Bill Bina

On 10/23/2014 7:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


Not a C&C but I did the standing rigging on my MacGregor 26C.  I used 
Suncor fittings.  Worked great.


http://www.suncorstainless.com/quick-attachtrade

Josh Muckley
S/ V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+

S/V Lasie
1990 MacGregor 26C

Solomons, MD




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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement- quick-attach fittings

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I can tell you why. The quick-attach can SLIP far too easily. Happened 
on my Babystay when I cranked the backstay. When I let off the backstay, 
the previously firmly tightened babystay was flopping around. The wire 
goes straight into the fitting with no bends or "spread out" of the 
strands like the sta-lok. What makes them so easy to use, also makes 
them prone to letting the cable move, or even pull out.


Bill Bina


On 10/23/2014 11:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:


I looked it up, the quick attach fittings are no longer advised for 
standing rigging though I can't understand why.  And I was wrong they 
won't work with rod but WILL work with all other types of wire.


Josh




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Re: Stus-List C&C smile fix - how I did it

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

I fixed mine about 10 years ago and it has remained completely fixed, 
despite a few incidents of groundings. I cleaned out the joint mostly by 
using a wire wheel chucked in a drill. That dug a channel all the way 
along the length of the joint on both sides and around the leading edge.


Then re-torqued the keel bolts to spec using a long handled 3/4 inch 
drive torque wrench and a variety of extensions, adapters, and sockets 
that I collected from a number of sources. I got the now dis-continued 
torque wrench from Harbor Freight for around $100. The rest of the 
sockets and stuff was a few hundred dollars. Heavy Equipment and truck 
mechanics use this big stuff, so ask some of them where they buy tools 
besides Snap-On, which is scary expensive. I know I got some of the deep 
sockets from NAPA autoparts. They sell them individually, which is good, 
because those big deep sizes aren't cheap! My boat has 3 different sized 
bolts.


Following re-torque adventure, I used a brass brush dipped in 
un-thickened epoxy to clean and seal the exposed metal and fiberglass. 
Next step was to fill the channel using Epoxy thickened to the 
consistency of peanut butter. Then I used a sander with 80 grit paper to 
clean an area all the way around extending about 10" above and 12" below 
the joint, which I then "primed with the brass brush/un-thickened epoxy. 
Followed that with several layers of fiberglass cloth soaked in slightly 
thickened epoxy and wraped like a bandage extending about 10 inches 
above and below the joint. Re-faired the keel and applied many coats of 
interprotect 2000 to seal the surface. Reapplied the first coat of 
micron extra before the final coat of interprotect cured. Previously I 
had tried sealing the joint with various fillers including 5200, 4200, 
Marinetex, Thickened epoxy with fibers. I got to try many fillers 
because none of them lasted from launch to haul out of a single season.


Bill Bina

On 10/24/2014 6:05 AM, DANIEL MCCORISON via CnC-List wrote:

I just bought a 1975 C&C 25mk. It's my first sailboat I have owned. Just wondering 
what is the best product to use to fix the C&C smile. Also what is the procedure to 
go about fixing it?

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging replacement

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
You can debate this all you want, but
  they are unsafe for standing rigging. The manufacturer agrees.
  They do not work the same as Sta-lok and Norseman. 
  
  From the Quick attach instructions:
  Quick Attach™ Installation
  Instructions & Information
  LINKS:
Quick Attach™ Installation Instructions (PDF)
Quick Attach™ Installation Instructions (Video)
  Why would you want to use mechanical swage fittings?
  Quick Attach™ fittings are precision machined from grade 316
stainless steel and Lloyds approved under #97/00200 for holding
power of at least 90% of the maximum breakload of the wire rope
used.  
  Special attention has been placed on the strength of the
terminals, which usually results in the wire breaking before the
fitting gets distorted. 
  The advantage of Quick Attach™ fittings over conventional
fittings is the arrangement of the wedges on the outside of the
cable.  This makes assembly much easier and allows different
types of wire to    be used with the
same fitting.
  Quick Attach™ fittings are ideal for repair of rigging without
swaging and for many other industrial or architectural uses
where the exact length of the cable cannot be determined
beforehand or where assembly needs to take place on-site.
  Quick Attach Fittings are are not recommended for "permanent"
  standing rigging on boats over 19 feet or boats using wire
  over 3/16" diameter. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 10/24/2014 9:40 PM, Rick Brass wrote:


  The spec sheet for the Suncor toggles says the working load limit of the assembly is limited by the working load limit if the wire you are using. IIRC, that is basically the same statement made for the Sta-lok and Norseman fittings I've used in the rigging of my 25 and my 38.

Rick Brass




  


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Re: Stus-List Suncor Quick Attach fittings

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

Someone just posted this in a group on facebook:

Goodness, when did suncor limit their fittings to small sailboats? This 
is a major decision that needs to be stated on all the sailing pages, 
practical sailor, distributors such as Jamestown, west marine, etc. do 
you realize we could lose our mast and people get hurt and die. I often 
have millionaires sail with me. Good lord!


This is not a minor concern.
Why would you make a 3/8" fitting that won't carry the load?
I am not happy.
I request reimbursement for these 6 fittings.

Send the check to
Ray truitt
7301 magnolia court
Galveston Texas 77551

And a prepaid shipping for the return of the disaster fittings.

My hope is to keep the attorneys out of this.

Thank for your concern

Ray and Annie

On Oct 27, 2014, at 2:47 PM, Suncor Stainless Support Team 


Thank you for your question.

Question:
---
Gentlemen/ladies, I have 6 suncor quick attach fittings newly installed 
on my boat. I carefully followed the instructions yet one completely let 
go yesterday and one crept out about 1/4". The others are now in doubt. 
Suggestions?

---

Answer:
---
Hello Ray,
Thank you for your question and interest in Suncor Stainless products.
Before any follow-up questions regarding the product can you reply as to 
whether the quick attach was being used as standard rigging? Please read 
the below and reply back to this email. Thank you.


Below is some of the information provided on the Suncor Website in the 
PRODUCT INFORMATION AND SUPPORT section. On the home page click on this 
section and type in quick attach in the search feature.

_
Why would you want to use mechanical swage fittings?

Quick Attach™ fittings are precision machined from grade 316 stainless 
steel and Lloyds approved under #97/00200 for holding power of at least 
90% of the maximum breakload of the wire rope used.


Special attention has been placed on the strength of the terminals, 
which usually results in the wire breaking before the fitting gets 
distorted.


The advantage of Quick Attach™ fittings over conventional fittings is 
the arrangement of the wedges on the outside of the cable. This makes 
assembly much easier and allows different types of wire to be used with 
the same fitting.


Quick Attach™ fittings are ideal for repair of rigging without swaging 
and for many other industrial or architectural uses where the exact 
length of the cable cannot be determined beforehand or where assembly 
needs to take place on-site.


Quick Attach Fittings are are not recommended for "permanent" standing 
rigging on boats over 19 feet or boats using wire over 3/16" diameter.

---

--
Suncor Stainless Support Team
mailto:loret...@suncorstainless.com,jo...@suncorstainless.com



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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
There is no such animal as a "USCG
  approved navigation light. The USCG does not have a department
  that tests products. When a nav light (or a PFD)  is certified, it
  is certified by the manufacturer to meet or exceed
  the USCG requirements. When a manufacturer certifies a nav light,
  it certifies the whole fixture including the lightbulb within. You
  cannot legally even replace the original bulb with one from
  another source, even if it has the same specs and part number. It
  HAS to come from the company that made the fixture, or the whole
  thing becomes not certified. Just the same, in the highly unlikely
  event that your nav light becomes central to a case being heard in
  admiralty court, you and your lawyer can always provide evidence
  that your light meets the coast guard requirements, even though
  YOU are the one certifying it. Kerosene lanterns that are over 100
  years old can be perfectly legal as nav lights, even though they
  pre-date the colregs. They just have to meet or exceed the USCG
  requirements for color, visibility, etc. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  
  
  On 10/30/2014 9:53 AM, Nauset Beach via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
And
then there was the discussion of whether putting LED bulbs
in old fixtures would be compliant with USCG regs.  Many
said no as the whole unit, both bulb and fixture, has to be
certified.  And that was why for a long period there were so
few USCG approved LED running lights; the approval process
was long and involved and many companies did not want to
expend the $ or effort…
 
So,
if an incident were to occur and it was discovered that the
whole fixture was not in compliance [and lights were
relevant to the incident] might liability fall differently
and insurance companies not be forthcoming with any
coverage? 
 
Any
current thoughts?  
 

  
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
  Behalf Of Bill Coleman via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Running Lights
  

 
Now
this really confuses me, when I first went LED on my forward
running lights, I replaced them with red and green, and then
someone, I think at the boat show, or maybe in one of the
boat magazines, said you had to have white coming through a
colored lens, so I changed back to white.
Now
my port running light is broken, and I am in the market, and
now I am really confused!
 

  Regards,
   
  Bill
  Coleman
  C&C
  39

 

  
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
On Behalf Of Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2014 8:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List EasyBlock Mainsheet
Traveler
  

 
Four
or five years ago, I replaced the bulbs in my existing
running lights and stern lights with LED bulbs. IIRC I got
them from Dr. LED and the red and green bulbs were about $10
or $11 each, and the bulb for the stern light (I think it is
called a festoon bulb, a cylinder that has pointy contacts
on each end) was about $5 or $6.
 
The
bulbs in my running lights are a type 90 bulb, which is sort
of hard to come by anyway. The supplier explained I needed a
green bulb behind the green lens and a red bulb behind the
red lens to get maximum light transmission and meet the USCG
2 mile visibility standard. Much of the light generated by a
white light is apparently absorbed when it goes through the
green lens.
 
I
asked about a 5 mile bulb, but was told that there was no
point on a light so close to the surface. As part of the
mast rebuild, I installed a 5 mile tricolor  light at the
top of the mast for use when offshore.
 
I
recently noticed that the teardrop (I kind of think of them
as cat’s eye) running lights on my bow are beginning to
corrode and look shoddy after 38 years of service. I, too,
wonder if there is a direct replacement for the old light
fixtures available somewhere.
 
 

Re: Stus-List CG Documentation and exchange of ownership in Massachuse tts

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
You cannot document the vessel until
  you can provide proof that you have done all the legal stuff and
  taxes for Massachusetts first. Documentation is an entirely
  separate operation. In Connecticut, you do state registration and
  pay the taxes and fees for that before you start the process for
  documentation with the USCG. People twist themselves into knots
  over this stuff, but if you simply go one step at a time, and read
  the instructions, there is nothing mysterious or difficult about
  any of it. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 10/30/2014 11:21 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:


  HA!  I will pass on the RI comment!  LOL
   
  Yea I just can't remember how it worked when I bought
Lolita...
   
  I'm actually trying to help a woman that wants to buy my boat
with information about the transfer.
   
  Danny
  

-- Original Message --
From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
To: 
Subject: Re: Stus-List CG Documentation and exchange of
ownership in Massachusetts
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2014 11:11:49 -0400



  Unfortunately
  they all talk to each other now, so at some point MA will
  find out from USCG that you bought a boat and want
  whatever MA state sales tax is on the purchase price. USCG
  has nothing to do with the tax, other than letting MA know
  that a transaction happened.
   
  So,
  Pay till it hurts!
  (Or
  register it in RI like Kerry)
   
  Bill
   Coleman
  C&C
  39
   
  
From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
  Behalf Of Danny Haughey via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2014 10:59
AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List CG Documentation
and exchange of ownership in Massachuse tts
  
   
  
HI Guys,
  
  
 
  
  
Can anyone shed any light on what is
  necessary when a coastguard documented vessel changes
  hands in Massachusetts?  In otherwords both seller and
  buyer reside in Massachusetts?
  
  
 
  
  
What are the sales tax requirements?
   the coastguard site does not seem to mention sales tax in
  the instructions I found on line.
  
  
 
  
  
http://www.uscg.mil/nvdc/instr/inst%20exchange.pdf
  
  
 
  
  
Any insights would be greatly
  appreciated!!
  
  
 
  
  
Danny
  
  
westport point, MA
  




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Re: Stus-List CG Documentation and exchange of ownership in Massachuse tts

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
I strongly recommend that as a starting
  point, you read the entire FAQ before you begin. Guessing is a
  very risky strategy!  :-) 
  
  http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/nvdc/nvdcfaq.asp
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 10/30/2014 2:39 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:


  I think you just send in the bill of sale:


Joel
  
  
On Thu, Oct 30, 2014 at 2:36 PM, Joel
  Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com>
  wrote:
  
Here is the link:
  
  
  http://www.uscg.mil/hq/cg5/nvdc/
  
  
  
  Joel


  

  On Thu, Oct 30, 2014 at 2:31
    PM, Bill Bina via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

  
You cannot document the vessel until you
  can provide proof that you have done all the
  legal stuff and taxes for Massachusetts first.
  Documentation is an entirely separate
  operation. In Connecticut, you do state
  registration and pay the taxes and fees for
  that before you start the process for
  documentation with the USCG. People twist
  themselves into knots over this stuff, but if
  you simply go one step at a time, and read the
  instructions, there is nothing mysterious or
  difficult about any of it. 
  
  Bill Bina
  

  

  

  


  


  


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Re: Stus-List Running Lights >Approved LED bulbs

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Yes, you must comply with the
  regulations. NO, if you modify your existing light by changing
  from the original bulb as supplied with the fixture, it is no
  longer  legally CERTIFIED BY THE MANUFACTURER as being in
  compliance. If you end up in court, you will have the burden of
  proving that the light you were using complied with the
  regulations. It will no longer be accepted as complying simply by
  virtue of being certified. It doesn't matter at all if your light
  now exceeds the requirements by 2 or 3 times the visibility. It is
  no longer CERTIFIED. People can try and make this as complicated
  and convoluted as they like, but the facts don't care. Meeting the
  requirements is not the same thing as CERTIFIED as meeting the
  requirements. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 10/31/2014 12:14 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


  
  The USCG minutia is contained in 33CFR84. You will find it in
Annex I of the COLREGS, which you are required to have on your
boat if you have a Captain's License. And which you probably
have on you boat in any event.
  
  
  33CFR88.05 says: The operator of each self-propelled vessel
12 meters (39.4') or more in length shall carry on board and
maintain for ready reference a copy of the Inland Navigation
Rules.
  
  
  As has been pointed out before, a navigation light is
certified by the light manufacturer to comply with the USCG
requirements. IF YOU MANUFACTURE A BOAT FOR SALE IN THE USA YOU
MAY ONLY USE A CERTIFIED LIGHT ASSEMBLY. If you are a boat
owner, or building a boat for your own use, you can use any
lighting device or bulb you chose, provided that the lights meet
the requirements of COLREGS RULE 22 (visibility) and RULE 23
(light patterns).
  
  
  Raise your hand if you have one of the Davis LED anchor
lights that plug into a cigarette lighter, or a battery operated
Perko anchor light you keep as a backup. Both meet COLREGS 22
for boats less than 39 feet, but neither are certified by the
manufacturer. At least mine aren't marked as certified.
  
  
  I can find no direct reference to the nav lights required in
46CFR Subchapter C covering uninspected passenger vessels of
less than 100 tons carrying 6 or fewer passengers, other than
the requirement to comply with COLREGS 22 & 23.
  
  
  For small inspected passenger vessels up to 100 tons carrying
100 or fewer passengers, 46CFR Subchapter T paragraph 183.420
says: All vessels must have navigation lights that are in
compliance with the applicable sections of the International and
Inland Navigation rules, except that a vessel of more than 198
meters (65') in length must also have navigation lights that
meet UL 1104 "Standards for Marine Navigation Lights" or other
standard specified by the Commandant.
  
  
  Bottom line is that as a Captain you must comply with the
light visibility and patterns specified in the COLREGS, and you
must have a copy of the current COLREGS aboard. 
  
  
  If you don't have a captain's license and you boat is less
than 12 meters you must comply with the COLREGS.
  
  
  And if the boat is over 12 meters you need to comply and
carry a copy of the COLREGS.
  
  
  I could not find anything in the 2000+ pages of Federal
Regulation I got while obtaining my Masters License that
indicates you need to use a certified light, use the same type
of bulb, or buy the same bulb used in building your boat - but
you must comply with COLREGS 22&23.
  
  
  Rick Brass

Sent from my iPad
  
On Oct 30, 2014, at 21:38, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
wrote:

  
  

  
  I'm guessing from previous discussions that you only need to
  worry about
  this USCG reg minutiae is if you have a Captain's license.
  Right?
  
  
  :)
  
  Cheers,
  Russ
  Sweet
  35 mk-1
  
  If you dream, dream big.
If you can think of a better world you will have a better
world.
If pigs could fly imagine how good their wings would
taste...



  At 06:53 AM 30/10/2014, you wrote:
  
  And then there
was the
discussion of whether putting LED bulbs in old fixtures
would be
compliant with USCG regs.  Many said no as the whole unit,
both
bulb and fixture, has to be cert

Re: Stus-List Running Lights > Elf

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Elf is very much around. A few years
  ago, I escorted her through dense fog on her way to Mystic Seaport
  for the wooden boat show because I had RADAR and she did not. I am
  not aware of the incident you mention, but we would have to know
  the details to draw any conclusions about WHY she might have lost
  the case. A kerosene lantern used as an anchor light is perfectly
  legal (annex 1 section 11 of international colregs) unless there
  is something more to the story. I can tell you that seeing all of
  Elf in the dark, regardless of anchor light, would be a challenge.
  She is about 35 feet on deck, but the boom hangs far over the
  stern, and she has a VERY long bowsprit. LOD is about 35 feet, and
  LOA is... about 70 feet!
  
  http://www.cyrg.org/images/graphics/ELFmorph-2.gif
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 11/1/2014 1:25 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
  
No
one cares until someone gets hurt.
I
recall a boat built in the 1800s with no electrical system
being rammed at night while anchored. The powerboat skipper
that hit them sued them for using a kerosene anchor light
and IIRC the wood boat lost L
I
think the boats name is Elf and she is still around.
 

  Joe
  Della Barba

j...@dellabarba.com
Coquina

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Looks like a C&C design...

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

"Like a Swan only cheaper" may have been a Baltic 39. The hull was 
designed by C&C and has the C&C cove stripe with the familiar 
diamond/star. They were built to a pretty high standard, complete with 
teak decks.




Bill Bina

On 11/20/2014 6:22 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List wrote:
Twice I have seen recently repainted boats (one a Catalina, one a 
Hunter) who put C&C stars under the toe rail. Then there was a Taiwan 
knock-off (I think they bought a boat and made a mold from the hull) 
and I was pretty sure it was a C&C 40 knock-off but the owner assured 
me it was 'just like a Swan only cheaper' and so I left him to his beer.


It's good to see the original stars shine.

Wal



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Re: Stus-List Wet / Dry Vac recommendations?

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
The filter bags are a little pricey,
  but completely worth it. They also make it easy to convert back
  and forth from wet to dry vac. The availability of filter bags for
  models under consideration would be a high priority for me. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 11/26/2014 2:19 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
  
I
have several Home Despot purchased (+- $50) Rigid 5 or 6 gal
shop vacs in use onboard during our deck restoration.  We
add the extra dust bag to protect the filters and motor from
fiberglass dust.  The oldest one is now over 2 years old and
still running but making more noise.
 
Martin
Calypso
1971
C&C 43
Seattle

  


  


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Re: Stus-List OMG! We're dragging!

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Thanks, Marek. I'm pretty busy during
  anchoring, since I'm often by myself. I usually just hit the MOB
  key when the anchor gets dropped, and after I am sure I am firmly
  set, I make a waypoint where the MOB position is and delete the
  MOB. I then simply "navigate to waypoint" which gives me a running
  graphical and numerical account of the distance from that
  waypoint. The boat slowly paints a smile on the chart as it swings
  back and forth. I can tell at a glance if the smile starts getting
  fat it means the boat is getting further from the mark. It also
  shows me if the boat has swung around to a new direction. No
  alarm, though. Seems to me it shouldn't be that hard to add an
  alarm feature tied to the waypoint that would mark a circle on the
  chart that could be made any size you wish. THAT is what I feel
  would be a very effective selling feature. Looks like I may be
  able to find an app for my android smartphone that will do this.
  I'd really prefer to have it in my dedicated chartplotter which
  doesn't get moved around on board, or carried to shore.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 12/3/2014 3:50 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
  

  Bill,
   
  You are right. The circle is drawn from your current
position at a selectable (settable) radius. I don’t know of
any way to move the centre of that circle  (to where you
want it to be). The only option I can imagine at this moment
is to move the boat to the anchor and set the alarm there.
Of course, it makes little sense.
   
  However, if you are prepared for that operation ahead of
the time, you can set the alarm, when you are dropping the
anchor. It should be a simple operation of pressing a key or
two. Even if the boat is moving slowly, a few metres this or
that way  should not matter (unless your anchorage is that
tight).
   
  Marek
  

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Vents and Rain, waterproof, closeable vents.

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

The Nicro is from Marinco, which is a company that specializes in 
electrical gear for harsh environments. Who the heck knows what 
Sunforce's core competency might be? They are sold at Home Depot for use 
to ventilate garden sheds. Will they hold up in salt air and salt spray? 
How long will the motor last? They also only have a single AA battery, 
and according to the manual, the fan will run on battery power for ten 
minutes each time you push the button. You can push the button every ten 
minutes until the battery is dead, and then you can go to bed. The 
Sunforce also mounts in a larger diameter hole than the NIcro, so once 
it fails, you will have a somewhat bigger project to upgrade to the 
Nicro. :-)


Bill Bina

On 12/29/2014 6:50 PM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Ken, Dan, Jim, & all,

I looked at the Defender site, and wonder why the Nicro vents are 
worth twice the price of the Sunforce? Any one used or know both, and 
can explain it?  Which ones are you using, and can you close them off, 
or if you get real water over the boat, will it just flood in. While I 
live in Seattle, and expect to deal with rain, we also have water over 
the boat occasionally.  All you have to do is be in a good current 
rip, wind against tide, and stuff the standing waves.  Once Kathleen 
said "I'm just going straight into this one", and dropped us into the 
big hole behind a freighter.  I was moving up for a pic, stepped up to 
the coach house, grabbed the boom and kept my feet dry, as water 
poured into the cockpit. "Well I don't need to do that again!" was her 
next comment. The cowl vents, even pointing back, leaked.  So I'm 
looking for waterproof, closeable vents.  Suggestions?


Thanks, Lee




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Re: Stus-List Broken Goose neck

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Broke mine a few years back during a
  race. I brought the pieces to a local machine shop so they could
  use them as a guide. They built up a blob of new aluminum where
  the tab broke off, and then machined it to shape and drilled the
  hole in the right position. It has held for about 6 years now.
  While I was waiting to find out of they could fix it, I also
  contacted South Shore, who looked through some boxes and found a
  brand new one that had still not even been cleaned or drilled
  after being cast. I bought that as a spare for about $100. The
  machine shop charged me $50, but I think that was a gift. I'm
  thinking it should have been more like $200.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 1/11/2015 2:17 AM, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List wrote:


I went to the boat to check on things and while standing on
  the frozen dock I sensed that something wasn't right but
  nothing seemed out of the ordinary until it dawned on me that
  the boom was laying on the top of the cabin; the outboard end
  was hanging by the topping lift but the inboard end was laying
  at the base of the mast! I looked at it and found that the
  black metal part that goes in the goose neck was broken into
  pieces and the broken part of the "ring" was still in the
  goose neck with the bolt intactI can only assume that it
  somehow froze and snapped? We have had the same cold spell as
  the rest of the country, (single digits, etc.); and some windy
  nights, but I have no idea how a one inch wide and half inch
  thick piece of metal just "broke"; nonetheless, can this be
  repaired? welded? or should I look for a new one? The boom is
  original to the boat; 1985 37 CB; any ideas? Thanks  

 

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River

 
Richard N. Bush
  2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
  Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
  502-584-7255
  
 

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Re: Stus-List C&C 30 one design

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
M81E is the 4 digit date code.  It is
  the date that the boat was "certified", meaning the date the
  certificate of origin was created as part of the build order.
  There are two legal methods for date codes. They can be either 4
  numbers, or a combination of numbers and letters. In this case,
  the M is a meaningless placeholder, followed by the year 81, and
  E, which is December. The date does not always coincide with a
  "model year", although it can if a boat of a particular model year
  has paperwork created during the model year. If the paperwork is
  created before the model year begins, which does happen, it will
  be the date the paperwork was created. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 1/20/2015 9:57 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  
ZCC
is C&C Yachts….NOTL plant I think
30
is model
671
is hull number
M81
is 81 model
E
is the keel laid down (production started) in December 1980
(boat model years start in September, like cars, so boats
started in August of a given year (A) are the next model
year)
 
 
Rick
Brass
Washington,
NC
 


 
From:
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
  Behalf Of Curtis via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2015 2:33 PM
To: Hoyt, Mike; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 30 one design
 

  
ZZC-    30-    671-    M81-   E 
  
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
 What do they mean?
  
  
 
  
  
 
  
  
 

  

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
I have that model and have no
  complaints, except that I paid quite a bit more than $125 for it!
  There is now a new model hx870, but I think the only major change
  is the addition of a strobe that lights if you drop it in the
  water. At $125 it is a steal.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  
  On 2/21/2015 2:22 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:


  All,


Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA, will
  require a handheld VHF with DSC this season.


Looking at a Standard
Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS from theGPSStore
for $125.00

  
  
  Any reason I
should not buy this unit?
  
  
  35/3
The Office
Annapolis
  Joel 
301 541 8551

  
  
  
  
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Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
The HX851 has GPS and it floats. 
  

  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 2/21/2015 5:57 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:


  
Personally, I'd pop extra $$ for the new HX870.  It floats
  and has built in GPS.  If I'm in the water, I'd want the thing
  broadcasting my location.
  

Dennis C.
  
  
On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 1:22 PM, Joel
  Aronson via CnC-List 
  wrote:
  
All,
  
  
  Found out that the local racing authority, CBYRA,
will require a handheld VHF with DSC this season.
  
  
  Looking at a Standard
  Horizon HX851 Handheld VHF Radio with GPS from
  theGPSStore for $125.00
  


Any reason
  I should not buy this unit?


35/3
  The Office
  Annapolis
Joel 
  301 541 8551

  

  

  


  


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
I got exact replacements from a place
  in Florida that makes all sorts of things out of teak. You are
  correct that the ones carried by all the big retailers do not have
  the correct 12 inch  spacing. 
  
  
  
  Make sure to specify NO FINISH when you order or they will come
  with a rubbed oil finish that you will have to strip before
  applying any varnish. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  
  On 2/21/2015 7:19 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  No one stocks exact replacements.
  You either have to get them made, or make them yourself. The
  "loops" on the stock items are shorter for one thing, and
  there is no way to match them up with the holes in your boat.

   
  Steve Thomas
  C&C27 MKIII
  
- Original Message -

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Handheld VHF with DSC - Defender sale tip

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
When making a list for the Defender
  sale, always check for manufacturers rebates on the items you are
  going to purchase. Make sure that you aren't losing a $30 rebate
  by waiting for Defender to lower the price by $20. Sometimes you
  get lucky and can combine a sale price AND a rebate.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  
  On 2/21/2015 8:04 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List wrote:


  
Hi Joel,

Point 1)  I'd be interested in
  the Chesapeake Bay Shorthanded Sailing Society and racing this
  summer.

Point 2) That's a great price for a handheld VHF let alone
  one that floats and has DSC!  Defender has a sale coming up
  end of March, might be worth waiting for?




  Chuck
  Resolute
  1990 C&C 34R
  Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md


  


  


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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
Yes, really.  This is no special secret that
  only I know about. Perhaps your premium is higher than it
  would have been otherwise, or whomever processed your
  application hadn't gotten the memo. You represent a pretty
  small sample group.  :-) 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 3/6/2015 4:52 PM, jtsails wrote:


  
  


  Really Bill? I had no trouble getting insurance on my
boat. And I not only have a pressurized alcohol stove, but
an Atomic four as well!
  James
  C&C 38 Mk2
  Oriental, NC
  

   
  
From: Bill Bina -
gmail via CnC-List 
Sent: Friday, March 06, 2015 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove
  

 
  
  You would have also
discovered that many insurance companies will not insure
a boat with a pressurized alcohol stove. They go
strictly by the numbers, and those stoves have a very
bad track record for claims. It is one of the "hot"
items they look for in the insurance survey. 

The other issue with alcohol is that the flames it makes
are virtually invisible, which can also lead to
unintended consequences. 

Bill Bina
  

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
They don't ask you what kind of stove
  you have. It is something they discern from the insurance survey.
  I started out by carefully saying that MANY insurance companies
  have a problem with pressurized alcohol stoves. That is a well
  known fact. I did not say all insurance companies refuse policies
  or raise premiums. Many do, but like anything, some don't.
  Pressurized alcohol stoves are recognized in insuranace circles as
  a high risk device that has resulted in a lot of claims. Insurance
  companies don't have emotions or unfounded opinions. All they care
  about is the numbers. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  
  On 3/6/2015 5:49 PM, Jack Brennan via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  

  I think it differs from insurance company to insurance
company.
   
  My current company, Progressive, does not ask about
stoves and in fact does not require surveys. However, it
likes you to have a stake in the game with high deductibles
and relatively low upper limits. (It used to be 15-20K. I
don’t know what it is now.) If you try for a low deductible,
the rate goes way up.
   
  Years ago, When I had BoatUS, I don’t remember being
asked about the stove.
   
  Jack Brennan
  Former C&C 25
Shanachie, 1974 Bristol 30
Tierra Verde, Fl.
  

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
There is a reason that although there
  are plenty of non-pressurized stoves still made, nobody makes
  pressurized models any longer. They have a bad track record.
  Companies do not want to be sued for making and selling a product
  known to be problematic. That is the bottom line. BoatUS has
  written about the problems. Pressurized alcohol stoves are
  responsible for more than their fair share of boat fires when
  compared to all other stoves, and fire safety in general. This is
  not a secret that I am revealing for the first time from a
  mysterious cave in the mountains. 
  :-) 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 3/6/2015 10:16 PM, John Irvin wrote:


  
  
Alcohol
  stove fires can easily be extinguished with water
  Surely a plus.
  
  
From: Bill
Bina - gmail via CnC-List
Sent: ‎2015-‎03-‎06 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove

  
  You would have also discovered
  that many insurance companies will not insure a boat with a
  pressurized alcohol stove. They go strictly by the numbers,
  and those stoves have a very bad track record for claims. It
  is one of the "hot" items they look for in the insurance
  survey. 
  
  The other issue with alcohol is that the flames it makes are
  virtually invisible, which can also lead to unintended
  consequences. 
  
  Bill Bina

  On 3/5/2015 10:14 PM, John McKay via
CnC-List wrote:
  
  

   An
question from another new C&C 33  MK II owner.
  
  
  I have been trying to get the original
Hillerange two burner pressure alcohol stove working, and it
scares me. One burner lights, flame is blue but not
adjustable. The other sounds like a jet engine and burns
about 8" high. Made an easy decision to scrap this.
  Any suggestions about a new stove top would be
appreciated
  
  
  John from Enterprise


  
  


  


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Re: Stus-List Stove

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
The key word that keeps getting overlooked in many
  response to this thread is P R E S S U R I Z E D. 
  Pressurized alcohol stoves are notorious for causing boat and
  RV fires, which is why insurance companies do not like them,
  and new boats or RV's do not have them, even as an option. 
  
  Non-pressurized alcohol stoves such as the Origo are a very
  different animal as far as safety, and insurance companies
  policies.
  
  Bill Bina
  
  On 3/7/2015 3:50 PM, robert via CnC-List wrote:


  
  Interesting discussion on 'stoves'.. which were designed for
  cooking.  
  
  However, I will confess that after 8 years, I have used my 2
  burner Origo non-pressurized alcohol stove to heat the cabin and
  make me comfortable while swinging on the mooring than I have used
  to make coffee.  And it is so simple.
  
  Did a Marblehead - Halifax race on a 1985 C&C 33 MKII and the
  only heat we had was when the propane stove and/or oven was going
  to cook.  When I am in the dark, in the middle of the Bay of Fundy
  at 3:00 am shift change, it's wet and cold, I am wet and
  cold..I really could care less what type of heat I am getting
  as long as I am getting heat and I can get dry.  Then I can look
  forward to a hot coffee and hot meal and what the stove was
  designed for.  
  
  BTW, the 33 stove/oven was propanewe had 2 full 10 lb. tanks,
  and we needed all of the 2 tanks..especially when we were
  making excuses to make coffee just to get some heat.  We installed
  a new 'propane detection monitor' very low in the boat before the
  race and had all connections and hoses checked.
  
  The 'stove thread' caused me to read my recent 'boat survey' 
  .the surveyor noted that the stove was "Origo" but did not
  state how it was fueled.  Probably doesn't matter to the insurance
  company whether I am using the stove to heat my cabin or make
  coffee.
  
  Rob Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32 - 84
  Halifax, N.S. 
  
  
  On 2015-03-07 2:10 PM, Burt Stratton
via CnC-List wrote:
  
  





  I
  am surprised by the complaints about alcohol stove
  performance. My little one burner non pressurized
  Electrolux works great! The flame stabilizes very quickly
  when it warms up. Not much of a problem with handling a
  reasonable draft and gets my 12-cup percolator perking
  very quickly. IMO it is safer than propane for a variety
  of reasons and since my stove is directly under my
  companionway hatch it is easy to vent the moist air
  created by the stove. Also very efficient. 
   
   
 



  From:

  "Joe

  Della Barba via CnC-List" 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Sent: Saturday, March 7, 2015 8:01:33 AM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Stove
  
 
  
  Have

  you ever actually tried that?
  Any

  significant pressure leak and you won’t be able to get
  anyplace near the stove.
   
   
  

  

  


  


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Re: Stus-List Solar Panel Replacement Question

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

One of those wires is the positive, and the other is the negative.

Bill Bina
On Jun 17, 2016 4:15 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Thanks to the list suggestions to another, I’m looking to replace my
> P.O.C. solar panel with a 30W one being sold on eBay.
>
> Please see: http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/-bgAAOSwHQ9Wbt4x/s-l1600.jpg
>
> Question — I see two cables coming off it. I assume one goes to the
> controller/battery. What is the other for? Chaining more than one together?
> If so, can that just be cut?
>
> And yes, before anyone else says it: Scotty, I need more power!
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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