Stus-List Surveyor in CT?

[nausetbeach--- via CnC-List]

All,

My insurance company is wanting a C&V survey for the first time in 25 years.
The timing is not ideal as the boat is hauled, winterized, and covered, and
the policy renews in weeks. 

 

Can anyone recommend a surveyor in CT?  Thought there was someone looking
for a surveyor in Branford recently but cannot find that string.  The boat
is in Branford for the winter. 

 

Thanks,

Brian

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stu

Stus-List Re: Surveyor in CT?

[Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List]

I used this gentleman in 2019, James M. Curry - Clinton, CT 06413.  He came to 
Branford Bruce & Johnsons.
He might be retired by now though.
Peter CowenhovenWaves of Change1984 Landfall 35

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 5:36 AM, nausetbeach--- via 
CnC-List wrote:   
All,

My insurance company is wanting a C&V survey for the first time in 25 years.  
The timing is not ideal as the boat is hauled, winterized, and covered, and the 
policy renews in weeks. 

  

Can anyone recommend a surveyor in CT?  Thought there was someone looking for a 
surveyor in Branford recently but cannot find that string.  The boat is in 
Branford for the winter. 

  

Thanks,

Brian
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu  
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Surveyor in CT?

[John McCrea via CnC-List]

I have used Dexter before. Really good. https://www.dexterholaday.com/On Nov 9, 2023, at 7:23 AM, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List  wrote:I used this gentleman in 2019, James M. Curry - Clinton, CT 06413.  He came to Branford Bruce & Johnsons.He might be retired by now though.Peter CowenhovenWaves of Change1984 Landfall 35Sent from Yahoo Mail on AndroidOn Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 5:36 AM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List wrote:   All,My insurance company is wanting a C&V survey for the first time in 25 years.  The timing is not ideal as the boat is hauled, winterized, and covered, and the policy renews in weeks.   Can anyone recommend a surveyor in CT?  Thought there was someone looking for a surveyor in Branford recently but cannot find that string.  The boat is in Branford for the winter.   Thanks,BrianPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.Stu  Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Definite yes on the Butyl Tape.  Recommend Bed-It brand.

Denatured alcohol will accelerate the process of drying wood.  Not familiar
with your boat so unsure how you would use it.  If you can get the alcohol
into/onto the wet wood, it will mix with the water and the resulting
solution will evaporate more quickly.

--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Nov 9, 2023 at 12:26 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Greetings,
> I discovered water via failed bedding at the starboard chain plate had
> been draining into the cavity behind the settee bulkhead where the
> plate/nuts are accessible. It's all glassed but the trapped water sloshed
> during sailing and saturated the unsealed plywood edges of the access port.
> Now I'm worried about rot around the plate bolts in addition to a wet deck
> core. Ugh.
>
> I've temp sealed the deck plate with Gorilla tape and am considering ways
> for drying things under deck (we're on a ball so no AC). Once I get a
> handle on any rot issues, I'll be cleaning/rebedding both chainplates.
>
> Any thoughts on this process?
> Thoughts on using butyl tape for bedding instead of 4200?
> The nuts/bolts were new when new chainplates were installed in 2011.
> Should I replace these?
>
>
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Surveyor in CT?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I would not use Barnaby Blatch.  He did a survey of my boat after a grounding 
and required me to do some unrelated stuff that I thought was unnecessary, time 
consuming and costly; for instance an automatic fire suppression system in the 
engine compartment.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Nov 9, 2023, at 5:35 AM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> All,
> My insurance company is wanting a C&V survey for the first time in 25 years.  
> The timing is not ideal as the boat is hauled, winterized, and covered, and 
> the policy renews in weeks. 
>  
> Can anyone recommend a surveyor in CT?  Thought there was someone looking for 
> a surveyor in Branford recently but cannot find that string.  The boat is in 
> Branford for the winter. 
>  
> Thanks,
> Brian
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[Richard Bush via CnC-List]

Peter there are many articles on this is the archives; I agree with Dennis on 
the Bed it; 
you should take some time to find out exactly what failed; I would look closely 
at whatever work was done in the 2011 work; for me personally, I would like to 
know what you find because I have a 1985 37 also...! thanks

Richard
1985 C&C 37 CB: Ohio River: out for repainting...

Richard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, 
Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255
 

On Thursday, November 9, 2023 at 01:27:11 AM EST, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 Greetings,I discovered water via failed bedding at the starboard chain plate 
had been draining into the cavity behind the settee bulkhead where the 
plate/nuts are accessible. It's all glassed but the trapped water sloshed 
during sailing and saturated the unsealed plywood edges of the access port. Now 
I'm worried about rot around the plate bolts in addition to a wet deck core. 
Ugh.
I've temp sealed the deck plate with Gorilla tape and am considering ways for 
drying things under deck (we're on a ball so no AC). Once I get a handle on any 
rot issues, I'll be cleaning/rebedding both chainplates.
Any thoughts on this process?Thoughts on using butyl tape for bedding instead 
of 4200?The nuts/bolts were new when new chainplates were installed in 2011. 
Should I replace these? 
The boat is a 1985 37' 6.7 draft
Any expertise, references, links will be most appreciated.


Peter McMinnSV Sirius

                         _/)

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu  Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[Nathan Post via CnC-List]

I second using Butyl tape - particularly the Bed-it brand. Not sure exactly
what your chain plates look like. I resealed my chainplates on my 34 with
bed-it in 2020 following recoring the deck in that region and haven't had
any leaking since. I suggest making an angled (e.g. 45 deg) cut in the
fiberglass around the chain plate on the top of the deck if there isn't one
already so that the bed it tape will have some thickness between the
fiberglass and the chain plate. Clean the surfaces with acetone or alcohol.
Roll a bead of tape and push it in as hard as you can - and add enough so
it is sticking up a bit. Then press down the little plate that holds that
in place (with a single layer of bedit tape under it) and screw in place
gently.  Come back and tighten the screws slowly over the course of a few
days so that the tape has time to flow.  Clean up excess tape around the
outside using a sharp knife to cut it around the edge of the metal plate.
Nathan
1981 C&C34
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Surveyor in CT?

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Jim Dias
Accredited Marine Surveyors. 
Has a CT phone number. 
About as good as they get. Very thorough. 
He surveyed our 35-3 about 10 years ago. Recently saw him on Yacht Hunters 
(YouTube) so I guess he’s still out there working. 
Jon Pratt
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[Matt Wolford via CnC-List]

Peter:

 

That the unsealed end of the plywood shows signs of water damage does not mean 
you have a core problem past the edge.  In addition, I view water sloshing 
around as encouraging – it would not be sloshing around if it went somewhere 
else (where it couldn’t be seen).  After the area is air dried for a few days 
(a hair dryer would be better, but you obviously need electricity for that), I 
suggest starting with a moisture meter to determine if cored wood near the 
chainplate connections shows elevated moisture to the point it becomes a 
concern.  If the core is not wet (as I suspect), seal up the exposed edges of 
the access portal and move on to the deck.  The deck core around the chainplate 
cut-out may also be an issue.  You should check/repair this as well before 
re-bedding the deck fitting.  I would not use 4200 for anything, especially 
since reading the article about how it can turn back into goo after a year or 
two (don’t know if 3M fixed that problem).  Based on suggestions from this 
list, I now use Bed-It for all deck fittings.  It works very well.

 

Good luck!

 

Matt

C&C 42 Custom

 

From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 1:26 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Peter McMinn 
Subject: Stus-List chain plate rebed ahead

 

Greetings,

I discovered water via failed bedding at the starboard chain plate had been 
draining into the cavity behind the settee bulkhead where the plate/nuts are 
accessible. It's all glassed but the trapped water sloshed during sailing and 
saturated the unsealed plywood edges of the access port. Now I'm worried about 
rot around the plate bolts in addition to a wet deck core. Ugh.

 

I've temp sealed the deck plate with Gorilla tape and am considering ways for 
drying things under deck (we're on a ball so no AC). Once I get a handle on any 
rot issues, I'll be cleaning/rebedding both chainplates.

 

Any thoughts on this process?

Thoughts on using butyl tape for bedding instead of 4200?

The nuts/bolts were new when new chainplates were installed in 2011. Should I 
replace these? 

 

The boat is a 1985 37' 6.7 draft

 

Any expertise, references, links will be most appreciated.

 




Peter McMinn

SV Sirius

 _/)

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[Peter McMinn via CnC-List]

Excellent suggestions, thank you! I have a roll of Bed-it tape on the way 
(https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?55717) and a call out among sailing 
buddies for a good moisture meter. Forgot about using alcohol for moisture 
abatement, I’ll get on that today.

Nathan, how deep do you cut that 45—just passed the gelcoat into glass?

Matt, yes, I was actually relieved the water (maybe 1.5qt when discovered) was 
contained. Keeping it all warm drying in the wettest part of the year will be a 
challenge.

The chainplates were new fabs installed in a 2011 refit, replacing the 
originals. They were built to spec and still look like new. There doesn’t 
appear to be any lifting off the deck, which I’ve heard is an issue when the 
bolt holes oval due to…other issues. The yard used caulking on the deck instead 
of butyl, which probably accounts for the failure. Anxious to start getting 
things apart to dry/inspect the backsides.

So, a question on cored deck design for my vintage boat (‘85). Do these decks 
have solid glass around the chainplate?
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List]

Peter – it’s been a while since I pulled the inspection ports on my 37, but I 
seem to recall the deck area around chainplates are solid.  Look up under the 
deck at the ports and you may answer your own question.  It shouldn’t be 
painted and you’ll be able to see the cored and un-cored portions – just like 
at the through hulls for depth/speed sensors or under the sink, or for cockpit 
drains.  

 

If the rig is down, it’ll be easy to pull the bolts for the plates and see if 
surrounding wood is affected and if the bolts are suspect.  As others have 
noted, butyl is the correct solution at the deck.  

 

Hope that helps.   

 

 

From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List  
Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 2:25 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com
Subject: Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

 

Excellent suggestions, thank you! I have a roll of Bed-it tape on the way 
(https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?55717) and a call out among sailing 
buddies for a good moisture meter. Forgot about using alcohol for moisture 
abatement, I’ll get on that today.

Nathan, how deep do you cut that 45—just passed the gelcoat into glass?

Matt, yes, I was actually relieved the water (maybe 1.5qt when discovered) was 
contained. Keeping it all warm drying in the wettest part of the year will be a 
challenge.

The chainplates were new fabs installed in a 2011 refit, replacing the 
originals. They were built to spec and still look like new. There doesn’t 
appear to be any lifting off the deck, which I’ve heard is an issue when the 
bolt holes oval due to…other issues. The yard used caulking on the deck instead 
of butyl, which probably accounts for the failure. Anxious to start getting 
things apart to dry/inspect the backsides.

So, a question on cored deck design for my vintage boat (‘85). Do these decks 
have solid glass around the chainplate?

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

[John Read via CnC-List]

Also second Nathan’s post.  Exactly what I did when correcting chainplate 
leaking some 10 years ago.  Zero leaks since

 

John Read

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: Nathan Post via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2023 8:52 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: Nathan Post 
Subject: Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead

 

I second using Butyl tape - particularly the Bed-it brand. Not sure exactly 
what your chain plates look like. I resealed my chainplates on my 34 with 
bed-it in 2020 following recoring the deck in that region and haven't had any 
leaking since. I suggest making an angled (e.g. 45 deg) cut in the fiberglass 
around the chain plate on the top of the deck if there isn't one already so 
that the bed it tape will have some thickness between the fiberglass and the 
chain plate. Clean the surfaces with acetone or alcohol. Roll a bead of tape 
and push it in as hard as you can - and add enough so it is sticking up a bit. 
Then press down the little plate that holds that in place (with a single layer 
of bedit tape under it) and screw in place gently.  Come back and tighten the 
screws slowly over the course of a few days so that the tape has time to flow.  
Clean up excess tape around the outside using a sharp knife to cut it around 
the edge of the metal plate.

Nathan

1981 C&C34

 

Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu