Peter – it’s been a while since I pulled the inspection ports on my 37, but I seem to recall the deck area around chainplates are solid. Look up under the deck at the ports and you may answer your own question. It shouldn’t be painted and you’ll be able to see the cored and un-cored portions – just like at the through hulls for depth/speed sensors or under the sink, or for cockpit drains.
If the rig is down, it’ll be easy to pull the bolts for the plates and see if surrounding wood is affected and if the bolts are suspect. As others have noted, butyl is the correct solution at the deck. Hope that helps. From: Peter McMinn via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Sent: Thursday, November 9, 2023 2:25 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: petemcm...@gmail.com Subject: Stus-List Re: chain plate rebed ahead Excellent suggestions, thank you! I have a roll of Bed-it tape on the way (https://shop.sailboatowners.com/prod.php?55717) and a call out among sailing buddies for a good moisture meter. Forgot about using alcohol for moisture abatement, I’ll get on that today. Nathan, how deep do you cut that 45—just passed the gelcoat into glass? Matt, yes, I was actually relieved the water (maybe 1.5qt when discovered) was contained. Keeping it all warm drying in the wettest part of the year will be a challenge. The chainplates were new fabs installed in a 2011 refit, replacing the originals. They were built to spec and still look like new. There doesn’t appear to be any lifting off the deck, which I’ve heard is an issue when the bolt holes oval due to…other issues. The yard used caulking on the deck instead of butyl, which probably accounts for the failure. Anxious to start getting things apart to dry/inspect the backsides. So, a question on cored deck design for my vintage boat (‘85). Do these decks have solid glass around the chainplate?
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