Stus-List The name lives on

[Paul E via CnC-List]

Her’s a link and discussion posted onScuttlebutt Sailing News 

https://www.facebook.com/ccyachts/posts/1890851237704508 


The C&C Yachts brand, which had been resurrected in 2014 by USWatercraft 

 through the launch of the C&C 30 One Design and the C&C Redline 41, has 
returned to past president Randy Borges 

 under his business Waterline Systems. Borges has re-acquired the exclusive 
rights to the C&C Yachts name and existing tooling for his business based in 
North Kingstown, Rhode Island.

-
Paul E.
1981 C&C Landfall 38 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/ 


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Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Hi  listers,

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec
backstay adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the
local rigger (Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the
removal and reinstall. So, onto the next project!

I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring I'm
going to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.

Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for the
forward bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt is in the
35-1? Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.

The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers with
stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some caulking.
I am going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed the backing
plates with 4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below the final torque
setting for a few days before the finishing the torquing to 100%.

Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading edge
of the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.

Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

If you can wait, I have both sockets on my boat and can look at the sizes. I 
used ¾” drive.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I





From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Thomas 
Delaney via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2019 9:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Thomas Delaney 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

Hi  listers,

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec backstay 
adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the local rigger 
(Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the removal and reinstall. 
So, onto the next project!

I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring I'm going 
to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.

Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for the forward 
bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt is in the 35-1? 
Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.

The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers with 
stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some caulking. I am 
going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed the backing plates with 
4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below the final torque setting for a few 
days before the finishing the torquing to 100%.

Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading edge of 
the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.

Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY
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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Tom,

I can get a torque wrench and I have the sockets, if you'd like to 
borrow them.  Contact me off list.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 2/6/2019 9:18 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List wrote:

Hi  listers,

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec 
backstay adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the 
local rigger (Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the 
removal and reinstall. So, onto the next project!


I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring 
I'm going to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.


Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for 
the forward bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt 
is in the 35-1? Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.


The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers 
with stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some 
caulking. I am going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed 
the backing plates with 4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below 
the final torque setting for a few days before the finishing the 
torquing to 100%.


Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading 
edge of the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.


Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY


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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Tom,

Speaking solely as someone who may be racing against you this season, suggest 
you swap out the stainless steel backing plates with plastic, caulk with cream 
cheese and torque to about 50%. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY 

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 






On Feb 6, 2019, at 9:18 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi  listers,

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec backstay 
adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the local rigger 
(Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the removal and reinstall. 
So, onto the next project!

I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring I'm going 
to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.

Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for the forward 
bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt is in the 35-1? 
Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.

The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers with 
stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some caulking. I am 
going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed the backing plates with 
4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below the final torque setting for a few 
days before the finishing the torquing to 100%. 

Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading edge of 
the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.

Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

To expand on Tom’s note below, I have a few additional questions for this 
crowd;  With anticipation of doing some offshore races in our area this summer, 
I pulled my mast last fall to tighten up all the keel bolts.   After only a 
couple years, they were surprisingly loose.   

 

Quick question; any reason to not use blue Loctite on the threads to help keep 
the nuts from loosening?

 

The boat is 5 hrs away and I don’t have any photos with me to double check, but 
I’m assuming there should be lock washers.  Maybe a better solution is to just 
replace those lock washers?  

 

Thanks,

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Thomas Delaney via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2019 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Thomas Delaney 
Subject: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

 

Hi  listers,

 

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec backstay 
adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the local rigger 
(Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the removal and reinstall. 
So, onto the next project!

 

I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring I'm going 
to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.

 

Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for the forward 
bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt is in the 35-1? 
Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.

 

The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers with 
stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some caulking. I am 
going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed the backing plates with 
4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below the final torque setting for a few 
days before the finishing the torquing to 100%. 

 

Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading edge of 
the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.

 

Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

 

Thanks,

Tom

 

---
Snow Goose

35-1

City Island, NY

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Instead of merely using 4200 to bed the backing plates, you may want to 
consider first bedding them in a microballoon mixture (like West System with 
colloidal silica).  This will eliminate high spots and spread the load on the 
backing plates more evenly.

From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2019 9:18 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Thomas Delaney 
Subject: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

Hi  listers, 

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec backstay 
adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the local rigger 
(Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the removal and reinstall. 
So, onto the next project!

I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring I'm going 
to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.

Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for the forward 
bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt is in the 35-1? 
Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.

The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers with 
stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some caulking. I am 
going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed the backing plates with 
4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below the final torque setting for a few 
days before the finishing the torquing to 100%. 

Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading edge of 
the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.

Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Thank you Joe and Neil, I've written to you both off-list.

Edd, I'd love to see you out there for some weekend racing! I'll work
on your suggestions right after I finish talking to the sailmaker
about incorporating a few "speed holes" into the new #1.

All best,
Tom

--
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY

On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 10:54 AM  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Edd Schillay 
> To: Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2019 10:53:13 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix
> Tom,
>
> Speaking solely as someone who may be racing against you this season, suggest 
> you swap out the stainless steel backing plates with plastic, caulk with 
> cream cheese and torque to about 50%.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
>
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log

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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Thomas Delaney via CnC-List]

Hi Matthew,

I love the idea of having a more structurally sound bedding material
for the backing plates. This is probably a stupid question - would the
microballoon mixture be a replacement for the 4200? Or is there a way
to bed the plates with the microballoon mixture, get the them back up
again without ruining the new surface, and bed again with a layer of
4200?

Thanks,
Tom

On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 12:00 PM  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Bcc:
> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2019 11:12:40 -0500
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix
> Instead of merely using 4200 to bed the backing plates, you may want to 
> consider first bedding them in a microballoon mixture (like West System with 
> colloidal silica).  This will eliminate high spots and spread the load on the 
> backing plates more evenly.

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Tom:

   Yes, there is a way to do that -- put a releasing agent on the backing 
plates before tightening down.  They will come off much easier after the 
mixture cures.  That said, if you squeeze the mixture out around the plates 
and let it cure, it's not likely to leak anyway.  You could always go back 
later and apply 4200 if you felt the need.


   My first boat was a Ranger 26 with an IOR-style keel that a prior owner 
had installed.  We noticed that the bilge would periodically fill with 
water, and at first we could not find the source.  When we removed the keel 
nuts and flimsy backing plates, we discovered cracks around several of the 
bolt holes.  To address it, I bought a large stainless plate to go over all 
the keel bolts, and we laid the plate over the bolts onto a mixture of West 
System and colloidal silica, then tightened the bolts until the mixture 
squeezed out around the plate.  When we finished, it was incredibly strong 
and did not leak a drop -- without any additional sealant.


   I'm not suggesting that you over-engineer re-bedding your backing 
plates, but the microballoon mixture will likely do the trick without 
additional sealant.


   Matt

-Original Message- 
From: Thomas Delaney via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2019 12:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Thomas Delaney
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

Hi Matthew,

I love the idea of having a more structurally sound bedding material
for the backing plates. This is probably a stupid question - would the
microballoon mixture be a replacement for the 4200? Or is there a way
to bed the plates with the microballoon mixture, get the them back up
again without ruining the new surface, and bed again with a layer of
4200?

Thanks,
Tom

On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 12:00 PM  wrote:


-- Forwarded message --
From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
To: 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2019 11:12:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix
Instead of merely using 4200 to bed the backing plates, you may want to 
consider first bedding them in a microballoon mixture (like West System 
with colloidal silica).  This will eliminate high spots and spread the 
load on the backing plates more evenly.


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 



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Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

Hi Thomas,

Check out this video Josh Muckley put out.

https://youtu.be/n6B0IPKQERc


/John

> On Feb 6, 2019, at 9:18 AM, Thomas Delaney  wrote:
> 
> Hi  listers,
> 
> First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec 
> backstay adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the local 
> rigger (Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the removal and 
> reinstall. So, onto the next project!
> 
> I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring I'm going 
> to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.
> 
> Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for the 
> forward bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt is in the 
> 35-1? Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.
> 
> The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers with 
> stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some caulking. I 
> am going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed the backing plates 
> with 4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below the final torque setting 
> for a few days before the finishing the torquing to 100%. 
> 
> Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading edge of 
> the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.
> 
> Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 
> ---
> Snow Goose
> 35-1
> City Island, NY
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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List]

Matt
 when I did my backing plates I used colloidal silica and used wax paper to 
allow the plates to be removed after everything set up. You must protect the 
threads from the silica as well.  http://gkolc3.wixsite.com/liberty
> On February 6, 2019 at 12:22 PM Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Matthew,
> 
> I love the idea of having a more structurally sound bedding material
> for the backing plates. This is probably a stupid question - would the
> microballoon mixture be a replacement for the 4200? Or is there a way
> to bed the plates with the microballoon mixture, get the them back up
> again without ruining the new surface, and bed again with a layer of
> 4200?
> 
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 
> On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 12:00 PM  wrote:
> 
> > -- Forwarded message --
> > From: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
> > To: 
> > Cc:
> > Bcc:
> > Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2019 11:12:40 -0500
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix
> > Instead of merely using 4200 to bed the backing plates, you may want to 
> > consider first bedding them in a microballoon mixture (like West System 
> > with colloidal silica).  This will eliminate high spots and spread the load 
> > on the backing plates more evenly.
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Wow.  How I re-bedded the keel (and lost my C&C smile).  Very ambitious and 
well done.


-Original Message- 
From: ahycrace ahycrace via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2019 3:17 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ahycrace ahycrace
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

Matt
when I did my backing plates I used colloidal silica and used wax paper 
to allow the plates to be removed after everything set up. You must protect 
the threads from the silica as well.  http://gkolc3.wixsite.com/liberty
On February 6, 2019 at 12:22 PM Thomas Delaney via CnC-List 
 wrote:



>
___

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and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - 
use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

The ¾” bolts use a 1 1/8” socket, and the 1” bolts use a 1 ½” socket. 

I have never seen lock washers on these keels, and I wouldn’t suggest them. 
They are torqued so darn tight I can’t imagine them loosening. I would, 
however, use a little TefGel on the threads.

Try putting a mark on the nut and on the plate with a magic marker to see if 
there is any activity there.

I am glad you brought this up, this made me realize that the last person to 
borrow my torque wrench never returned it!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete 
Shelquist via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2019 11:08 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Pete Shelquist
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

 

To expand on Tom’s note below, I have a few additional questions for this 
crowd;  With anticipation of doing some offshore races in our area this summer, 
I pulled my mast last fall to tighten up all the keel bolts.   After only a 
couple years, they were surprisingly loose.   

 

Quick question; any reason to not use blue Loctite on the threads to help keep 
the nuts from loosening?

 

The boat is 5 hrs away and I don’t have any photos with me to double check, but 
I’m assuming there should be lock washers.  Maybe a better solution is to just 
replace those lock washers?  

 

Thanks,

 

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Thomas Delaney via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2019 8:19 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Thomas Delaney 
Subject: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

 

Hi  listers,

 

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec backstay 
adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the local rigger 
(Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the removal and reinstall. 
So, onto the next project!

 

I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring I'm going 
to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.

 

Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for the forward 
bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt is in the 35-1? 
Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.

 

The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers with 
stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some caulking. I am 
going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed the backing plates with 
4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below the final torque setting for a few 
days before the finishing the torquing to 100%. 

 

Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading edge of 
the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.

 

Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

 

Thanks,

Tom

 

---
Snow Goose

35-1

City Island, NY

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Wasn’t me.

From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2019 4:43 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Bill Coleman 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

The ¾” bolts use a 1 1/8” socket, and the 1” bolts use a 1 ½” socket. 

I have never seen lock washers on these keels, and I wouldn’t suggest them. 
They are torqued so darn tight I can’t imagine them loosening. I would, 
however, use a little TefGel on the threads.

Try putting a mark on the nut and on the plate with a magic marker to see if 
there is any activity there.

I am glad you brought this up, this made me realize that the last person to 
borrow my torque wrench never returned it!

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Pete 
Shelquist via CnC-List


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Stus-List Problems removing rudder from Custom C&C 43

[Neil Holtzhausen via CnC-List]

We own a custom C&C 43 and are attempting to remove the rudder to 
service/replace bearings as needed. We have successfully removed all the nuts 
and bolts of the quadrant, but are having trouble removing the final threaded 
bolts securing the post in position. (These are two threaded bolts coming out 
of the sides of the post, with a ring/washer at the end of the thread, closest 
to the post, but this item can not be removed with a wrench, as it is round. 
photos available at 
https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/rudder-post-removal.195200/)

Can anyone provide info regarding how to remove these threaded bolts ?
Also, once these are removed, will we be able to drop the rudder?
Any suggestions where to find replacement bearings if needed?
Best lubrication to use?
Any advice will be appreciated.
Thanks
s/v Tiger

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Re: Stus-List Problems removing rudder from Custom C&C 43

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Try putting 2 proper size nuts on the threaded rod. Back them up together
until tight. Then with a wrench on the inside nut, see if you can get
movement on the rod when you apply force to the wrench. The idea behind
this is to use the outer nut as though it is the hex cap on a machine bolt.
If you are able to back out the rod, I have no idea if it will allow you to
drop the rudder.

Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans

On Wed, Feb 6, 2019 at 7:38 PM Neil Holtzhausen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> We own a custom C&C 43 and are attempting to remove the rudder to
> service/replace bearings as needed. We have successfully removed all the
> nuts and bolts of the quadrant, but are having trouble removing the final
> threaded bolts securing the post in position. (These are two threaded bolts
> coming out of the sides of the post, with a ring/washer at the end of the
> thread, closest to the post, but this item can not be removed with a
> wrench, as it is round. photos available at
> https://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php?threads/rudder-post-removal.195200/
> )
>
>
> Can anyone provide info regarding how to remove these threaded bolts ?
>
> Also, once these are removed, will we be able to drop the rudder?
>
> Any suggestions where to find replacement bearings if needed?
>
> Best lubrication to use?
>
> Any advice will be appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> s/v Tiger
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[Steven A. Demore via CnC-List]

I had my C&C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some work on it.  The boat
came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some one day, just to get
through summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I asked the rigger
what kind of wedges it should have.  He said he wasn't sure whether C&Cs
came with wedges, or a metal spacer.  Does anybody know what the factory
used to support the mast through the deck?

Also, while I am at it. Any suggestions on anything I should be checking on
the mast?  I'm replacing the wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all of
the running rigging, new blocks and sheaves, and checking out the step.  The
boom has the internal blocks and wire for tensioning the foot of the main,
but I don't know whether that is accessible for maintenance or not.

 

One last thing.  I was planning to mount steps (the triangular aluminum
ones) on the sides of the mast.  The rigger recommended against it because
of the number of holes in the mast.  Anybody have thought on whether a
series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the mast?



Thanks,

Steve

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Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Buy a can of Spartite, forget the wedges.

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven A.
Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2019 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore
Subject: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

 

I had my C&C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some work on it.  The boat
came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some one day, just to get
through summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I asked the rigger
what kind of wedges it should have.  He said he wasn't sure whether C&Cs
came with wedges, or a metal spacer.  Does anybody know what the factory
used to support the mast through the deck?

Also, while I am at it. Any suggestions on anything I should be checking on
the mast?  I'm replacing the wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all of
the running rigging, new blocks and sheaves, and checking out the step.  The
boom has the internal blocks and wire for tensioning the foot of the main,
but I don't know whether that is accessible for maintenance or not.

 

One last thing.  I was planning to mount steps (the triangular aluminum
ones) on the sides of the mast.  The rigger recommended against it because
of the number of holes in the mast.  Anybody have thought on whether a
series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the mast?

Thanks,

Steve

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Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

My 32 had wedges and 2 metal straps the bolt on to the mast.

Neil
C&C 32 FoxFire

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661


From: CnC-List  on behalf of Bill Coleman via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, February 6, 2019 10:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bill Coleman
Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

Buy a can of Spartite, forget the wedges.

Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Steven A. 
Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2019 9:58 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore
Subject: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

I had my C&C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some work on it.  The boat came 
with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some one day, just to get through 
summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I asked the rigger what kind of 
wedges it should have.  He said he wasn’t sure whether C&Cs came with wedges, 
or a metal spacer.  Does anybody know what the factory used to support the mast 
through the deck?

Also, while I am at it. Any suggestions on anything I should be checking on the 
mast?  I’m replacing the wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all of the 
running rigging, new blocks and sheaves, and checking out the step.  The boom 
has the internal blocks and wire for tensioning the foot of the main, but I 
don’t know whether that is accessible for maintenance or not.

One last thing.  I was planning to mount steps (the triangular aluminum ones) 
on the sides of the mast.  The rigger recommended against it because of the 
number of holes in the mast.  Anybody have thought on whether a series of small 
holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the mast?
Thanks,
Steve
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Re: Stus-List Mast Wedge Help

[svrebeccaleah via CnC-List]

Only thing I can recommend is run a cable down toe out side corners of steps on 
each side of last. This will help prevent lines from getting tangles in the 
steps. Doug Mountjoy Sv Rebecca Leah LH39Port Orchard YC wa.
 Original message From: "Steven A. Demore via CnC-List" 
 Date: 2/6/19  18:58  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Steven A. Demore"  Subject: 
Stus-List Mast Wedge Help I had my C&C 30 MK1 dismasted yesterday to do some 
work on it.  The boat came with no wedges in the deck collar, so I made some 
one day, just to get through summer.  While taking down the mast yesterday, I 
asked the rigger what kind of wedges it should have.  He said he wasn’t sure 
whether C&Cs came with wedges, or a metal spacer.  Does anybody know what the 
factory used to support the mast through the deck?Also, while I am at it. Any 
suggestions on anything I should be checking on the mast?  I’m replacing the 
wiring, going to LED lights, replacing all of the running rigging, new blocks 
and sheaves, and checking out the step.  The boom has the internal blocks and 
wire for tensioning the foot of the main, but I don’t know whether that is 
accessible for maintenance or not. One last thing.  I was planning to mount 
steps (the triangular aluminum ones) on the sides of the mast.  The rigger 
recommended against it because of the number of holes in the mast.  Anybody 
have thought on whether a series of small holes (1/8, 3/16??) would weaken the 
mast?Thanks,Steve___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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