Re: Stus-List wheel squeak - Follow up/Resolution

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,
I suspect you're right, and yes, I had thought that might have been the case in 
retrospect.  

I may take you up on the offer of using your plate as a template.  I want to 
reach out to Garhauer, as well as checking with some folks locally, but I think 
I'd really prefer a stainless equivalent of the original vs. the aluminum 
version now being offered by Edson and then having to put a spacer between the 
pedestal and the deck.
Thanks for all your insights,  Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 To: C&C List  
Cc: Josh Muckley 
 Sent: Thursday, July 5, 2018 6:34 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak - Follow up/Resolution
   
Bruce, I found this historical email from you last year.  Based on your recent 
investigation I think you were experiencing a symptom of the deterioration last 
year.  I believe you had to raise the radial drive wheel because the sheave 
plate was collapsing, raising the exit path of the cables from the sheaves.
Josh
On Mon, Aug 28, 2017, 8:17 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Hello all,
I thought I would let you know what I found when I tracked down our 
creaking/crunching sound when we turned the wheel on our 1994 C&C 37/40+.  
According to the survey, the drive wheel at the rudder post had been recently 
replaced.  When I went and looked at the idlers and the drive wheel, the wheel 
was slightly out of alignment.  So, when the wheel was moved, the cable lightly 
rubbed the edge of the wheel ring, and the resulting noise was actually much 
worse than one would imagine.  

Once I backed off the bolts and slightly raised the drive wheel, the noise went 
away.
FYI, I also found a loose idler pulley mounting nut, and also found the idler 
axles are stainless pins. 

In the end, a very easy fix.
Thanks for insights everyone! 
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Bruce Whitmore 
 Sent: Sunday, August 27, 2017 9:20 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
  
This brings up a good point - As for the cables, where would folks here buy 
them?  Directly from Edson (expensive) or is there a less expensive, but still 
good quality alternative (say from McMaster Carr, Grainger, etc.)?
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: svpegasus38 via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: svpegasus38 
 Sent: Saturday, August 26, 2017 2:08 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List wheel squeak
  
Had a similar thing happen sailing to Hawaii few years ago on a 1973 Ericson 
35. 500 miles from Hilo I had a steering cable break. Dug out the emergency 
tiller, and continued to sail. No anchoring here, lol. Figured out it was 
almost impossible to steer a course while looking aft at the compass, chart 
plotter was to slow to steer by. We hove to, changed the cable and sailed off 
into the sun set, well it did take all day to get to the sun set. Next morning 
at 5am the other cable broke. This time the capt was at the helm and the seas 
were in the neighborhood of 20ft instead of 4 like the day before. Hove to 
again changed the second cable. The owner had changed out the cable 3 years 
before using hardware store wire rope. I heard from a friend, who sailed back 
to Victoria, that the cables broke again. My thought was that he had too stuff 
of cable for the sheave  diameter. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: ahycrace via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/25/17 20:08 (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: ahycrace  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
wheel squeak 
Sailing down Narragansett bay a few years ago broad reach 7kts we hear a loud 
BANG and no steering. Get the sails down and anchor. We look under the cockpit 
and see that the idler plate is so rusted that one of the pullys has pulled 
right off. Get the emergency tiller out and attach it motor homea very bad 
day! Check that plate and all of the attached pullys. Edson has all the 
replacements if needed. I have pics of the bad plate before i took it off. I 
can post them when we get home we are in Newport watching the J class boats 
race.  
Gary. "Liberty"  38' Mk ll


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/24/17 10:08 AM (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List wheel squeak 
Richard,Make sure to use a non-petroleum based lubricant for the bearings that 
support the wheel shaft (such as Superlube or other Teflon based grease).  
Don’t squirt WD-40 or any light weight spray  lubricant into the grease holes 
as it will tend to flush any lube out of the nylon caged bearings.  You can 
also check to see if the bearings are worn if you can move the wheel shaft up 
and down, or side to side.  There should be no play in the sh

Stus-List Tether warning and snap shackle split rings

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I was checking the PFD's, harnesses and tethers before a race couple weeks
ago.  When I pulled the release on one of the tether's "human" end snap
shackle, it disintegrated.  The snap shackle could not been released if
needed.  Very dangerous situation.  Please check your safety gear often!!

The tether was a West Marine brand.  (Yeah, I know how many times I've
posted to the list not to buy anything with the West Marine brand.)

Anyway, split rings for snap shackles are hard to find.  They must be
stronger than the ones you use to secure cotter pins in order to withstand
the force of pulling without straightening out.

I could have ordered a Ronstan plunger pin kit which includes a single
heavy duty split ring for about $20.  I decided to look at other options.

I ordered some from mcmaster.com.  Their Part #90905A652 9/16" 316
stainless split ring seems to work OK.  While obviously not as sturdy as
the Ronstan, it fit and withstood a significant pull without deforming.
Unless you have a rather excitable gorilla on your crew, I suspect it
should work just fine.  A pack of 10 is about $10-15 shipped.

If anyone finds the standard snap shackle split rings online or a better
alternative, please post.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Tether warning and snap shackle split rings

[John McKay via CnC-List]

 Strange to see your comment on a shackle.
I had a new shackle on a new spin sheet blow this week. Luckily all the parts 
were trapped by the famous C&C toe rail. Thanks for the advice on searching out 
heavier rings which I likely should have for a sheet. I have taped the ring so 
there is no end to get caught on something.
John on Enterprise 33 MKIISarnia Ontario
On Sunday, July 8, 2018, 9:57:24 a.m. EDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 I was checking the PFD's, harnesses and tethers before a race couple weeks 
ago.  When I pulled the release on one of the tether's "human" end snap 
shackle, it disintegrated.  The snap shackle could not been released if needed. 
 Very dangerous situation.  Please check your safety gear often!!
The tether was a West Marine brand.  (Yeah, I know how many times I've posted 
to the list not to buy anything with the West Marine brand.)
Anyway, split rings for snap shackles are hard to find.  They must be stronger 
than the ones you use to secure cotter pins in order to withstand the force of 
pulling without straightening out.
I could have ordered a Ronstan plunger pin kit which includes a single heavy 
duty split ring for about $20.  I decided to look at other options.
I ordered some from mcmaster.com.  Their Part #90905A652 9/16" 316 stainless 
split ring seems to work OK.  While obviously not as sturdy as the Ronstan, it 
fit and withstood a significant pull without deforming.  Unless you have a 
rather excitable gorilla on your crew, I suspect it should work just fine.  A 
pack of 10 is about $10-15 shipped.
If anyone finds the standard snap shackle split rings online or a better 
alternative, please post.
Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, 
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Stus-List Radio cord

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Listers, I have a Raymarine telephone style outdoor mic cord that has suffered 
some UV damage. The cord is 9 wire coiled and hard to find. I tried Raymarine 
and they no longer sell replacement cords. Can anyone suggest a supplier for a 
minimum of 9 conductor coiled wire? 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
C&C 37+
Midland On

Sent from my mobile device. 
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Re: Stus-List Radio cord

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Try mouser.com

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Sun, Jul 8, 2018, 12:18 PM Len Mitchell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Listers, I have a Raymarine telephone style outdoor mic cord that has
> suffered some UV damage. The cord is 9 wire coiled and hard to find. I
> tried Raymarine and they no longer sell replacement cords. Can anyone
> suggest a supplier for a minimum of 9 conductor coiled wire?
>
> Len Mitchell
> Crazy Legs
> C&C 37+
> Midland On
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Stus-List Perko Head Door Latch

[David via CnC-List]

Circa 1981... trying to remove to polish it up and make it look presentable. 
But seem to be running into a dead end is there any kind of secret that I 
should know about before I break the darn thing? Thanks in advance

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Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

Happy summer!  I'm wondering if y'all have opinions/wisdom to share about
the basic C&C 37/40?  Wing keel...5'3" draft specifically.

Might be time for my son to take over my 35-3 if I can find the right boat.

Thoughts?


*Chuck Saur*

(517)-490-5926
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Re: Stus-List Tether warning and snap shackle split rings

[Paul Wyand via CnC-List]

I thought these tethers were recalled due to the slip rings. May have been
thinking of something else but check with West Marine. I have a mixed
relationship with them, hate them but they do stand behind their products
and some stores are very good. My local store happens to have old sailors
working there and they can help with almost anything, but other stores are
power boater centric and can be downright unpleasant.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_6/product_update/West_Marine_Updates_Recalled_Tether_10452-1.html



On Sun, Jul 8, 2018 at 10:40 AM John McKay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Strange to see your comment on a shackle.
>
> I had a new shackle on a new spin sheet blow this week. Luckily all the
> parts were trapped by the famous C&C toe rail. Thanks for the advice on
> searching out heavier rings which I likely should have for a sheet. I have
> taped the ring so there is no end to get caught on something.
>
> John on Enterprise 33 MKII
> Sarnia Ontario
>
> On Sunday, July 8, 2018, 9:57:24 a.m. EDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> I was checking the PFD's, harnesses and tethers before a race couple weeks
> ago.  When I pulled the release on one of the tether's "human" end snap
> shackle, it disintegrated.  The snap shackle could not been released if
> needed.  Very dangerous situation.  Please check your safety gear often!!
>
> The tether was a West Marine brand.  (Yeah, I know how many times I've
> posted to the list not to buy anything with the West Marine brand.)
>
> Anyway, split rings for snap shackles are hard to find.  They must be
> stronger than the ones you use to secure cotter pins in order to withstand
> the force of pulling without straightening out.
>
> I could have ordered a Ronstan plunger pin kit which includes a single
> heavy duty split ring for about $20.  I decided to look at other options.
>
> I ordered some from mcmaster.com.  Their Part #90905A652 9/16" 316
> stainless split ring seems to work OK.  While obviously not as sturdy as
> the Ronstan, it fit and withstood a significant pull without deforming.
> Unless you have a rather excitable gorilla on your crew, I suspect it
> should work just fine.  A pack of 10 is about $10-15 shipped.
>
> If anyone finds the standard snap shackle split rings online or a better
> alternative, please post.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> 
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> 
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>
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Re: Stus-List Tether warning and snap shackle split rings

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Looks similar but mine is blue and not stretchy.  Same snap shackle
perhaps.

Reassuring to see the 60 lb pull number in the article.  I think my fix
will withstand that.

Dennis C.

On Sun, Jul 8, 2018 at 4:12 PM, Paul Wyand via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I thought these tethers were recalled due to the slip rings. May have been
> thinking of something else but check with West Marine. I have a mixed
> relationship with them, hate them but they do stand behind their products
> and some stores are very good. My local store happens to have old sailors
> working there and they can help with almost anything, but other stores are
> power boater centric and can be downright unpleasant.
>
> https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_6/product_
> update/West_Marine_Updates_Recalled_Tether_10452-1.html
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 8, 2018 at 10:40 AM John McKay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Strange to see your comment on a shackle.
>>
>> I had a new shackle on a new spin sheet blow this week. Luckily all the
>> parts were trapped by the famous C&C toe rail. Thanks for the advice on
>> searching out heavier rings which I likely should have for a sheet. I have
>> taped the ring so there is no end to get caught on something.
>>
>> John on Enterprise 33 MKII
>> Sarnia Ontario
>>
>> On Sunday, July 8, 2018, 9:57:24 a.m. EDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I was checking the PFD's, harnesses and tethers before a race couple
>> weeks ago.  When I pulled the release on one of the tether's "human" end
>> snap shackle, it disintegrated.  The snap shackle could not been released
>> if needed.  Very dangerous situation.  Please check your safety gear often!!
>>
>> The tether was a West Marine brand.  (Yeah, I know how many times I've
>> posted to the list not to buy anything with the West Marine brand.)
>>
>> Anyway, split rings for snap shackles are hard to find.  They must be
>> stronger than the ones you use to secure cotter pins in order to withstand
>> the force of pulling without straightening out.
>>
>> I could have ordered a Ronstan plunger pin kit which includes a single
>> heavy duty split ring for about $20.  I decided to look at other options.
>>
>> I ordered some from mcmaster.com.  Their Part #90905A652 9/16" 316
>> stainless split ring seems to work OK.  While obviously not as sturdy as
>> the Ronstan, it fit and withstood a significant pull without deforming.
>> Unless you have a rather excitable gorilla on your crew, I suspect it
>> should work just fine.  A pack of 10 is about $10-15 shipped.
>>
>> If anyone finds the standard snap shackle split rings online or a better
>> alternative, please post.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Virus-free.
>> www.avg.com
>> 
>> <#m_-5777475271787067695_m_5719270154116172669_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
>> ___
>>
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>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Perko Head Door Latch

[james via CnC-List]

They are pot metal with a chrome plating. Just replace it, they still 
make them. Mine was a part number 1028 if I remember correctly.



James

"Delaney"

1976 C&C 38

Oriental, NC


On 7/8/2018 4:03 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:
Circa 1981... trying to remove to polish it up and make it look 
presentable. But seem to be running into a dead end is there any kind 
of secret that I should know about before I break the darn thing? 
Thanks in advance


Get Outlook for Android



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Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

My Raymarine wheel pilot has given up the ghost and I am considering a below 
deck hydraulic replacement. The cost is reasonable since most of my Raymarine 
stuff will be used by the hydraulic unit.


My concern is how responsive (or not!) the wheel will be when the pilot is 
disengaged. With the wheel pilot, there was little difference. 


I have steered a boat with hydraulic steering once (a Whitby 42) whose entire 
steering (auto or not) was hydraulic. The response of
that system was so bad I swore I would never have anything to do with another 
hydraulic unit. 


Of course, when not engaged I understand that the pilot would not be steering 
the boat--OTOH, it is still connected in some manner.


Since I mostly PHRF race the boat, I need to have the wheel/rudder move without 
additional resistance from the auto-pilot. 


Is this something I should be concerned about or is the wheel 'free' when the 
auto-pilot is not engaged?


Thanks,


Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom









cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Charlie,

There’s actually more friction with the wheel pilot versus the hydraulic. 

All the best, 

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Jul 8, 2018, at 8:15 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
wrote:

My Raymarine wheel pilot has given up the ghost and I am considering a below 
deck hydraulic replacement. The cost is reasonable since most of my Raymarine 
stuff will be used by the hydraulic unit.

My concern is how responsive (or not!) the wheel will be when the pilot is 
disengaged. With the wheel pilot, there was little difference. 

I have steered a boat with hydraulic steering once (a Whitby 42) whose entire 
steering (auto or not) was hydraulic. The response of
that system was so bad I swore I would never have anything to do with another 
hydraulic unit. 

Of course, when not engaged I understand that the pilot would not be steering 
the boat--OTOH, it is still connected in some manner.

Since I mostly PHRF race the boat, I need to have the wheel/rudder move without 
additional resistance from the auto-pilot. 

Is this something I should be concerned about or is the wheel 'free' when the 
auto-pilot is not engaged?

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom





cenel...@aol.com
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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

My type 1 RAM adds no noticeable friction.

Joel

On Sun, Jul 8, 2018 at 8:51 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Charlie,
>
> There’s actually more friction with the wheel pilot versus the hydraulic.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, New York
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> 914.774.9767   | Mobile
> ---
> Sent via iPhone X
> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
> On Jul 8, 2018, at 8:15 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My Raymarine wheel pilot has given up the ghost and I am considering a
> below deck hydraulic replacement. The cost is reasonable since most of my
> Raymarine stuff will be used by the hydraulic unit.
>
> My concern is how responsive (or not!) the wheel will be when the pilot is
> disengaged. With the wheel pilot, there was little difference.
>
> I have steered a boat with hydraulic steering once (a Whitby 42) whose
> entire steering (auto or not) was hydraulic. The response of
> that system was so bad I swore I would never have anything to do with
> another hydraulic unit.
>
> Of course, when not engaged I understand that the pilot would not be
> steering the boat--OTOH, it is still connected in some manner.
>
> Since I mostly PHRF race the boat, I need to have the wheel/rudder move
> without additional resistance from the auto-pilot.
>
> Is this something I should be concerned about or is the wheel 'free' when
> the auto-pilot is not engaged?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Hydraulic auto-pilot

[Mark Baldridge via CnC-List]

Charlie,

I can't feel any friction when the AH is disabled on my below deck 
RayMarine hydraulic. I wouldn't hesitate to go to it. Much less than the 
wheel pilot on the the 35. You are welcome to hop on and try it out 
while we're in your neck of the woods.


Mark Baldridge
~~_/)
'89 C&C37/40+ "The Edge"
Surf City, NC


On 7/8/2018 8:55 PM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:

My type 1 RAM adds no noticeable friction.

Joel

On Sun, Jul 8, 2018 at 8:51 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Charlie,

There’s actually more friction with the wheel pilot versus the
hydraulic.

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
www.StarshipSailing.com 
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Jul 8, 2018, at 8:15 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

My Raymarine wheel pilot has given up the ghost and I am
considering a below deck hydraulic replacement. The cost is
reasonable since most of my Raymarine stuff will be used by the
hydraulic unit.

My concern is how responsive (or not!) the wheel will be when the
pilot is disengaged. With the wheel pilot, there was little
difference.

I have steered a boat with hydraulic steering once (a Whitby 42)
whose entire steering (auto or not) was hydraulic. The response of
that system was so bad I swore I would never have anything to do
with another hydraulic unit.

Of course, when not engaged I understand that the pilot would not
be steering the boat--OTOH, it is still connected in some manner.

Since I mostly PHRF race the boat, I need to have the wheel/rudder
move without additional resistance from the auto-pilot.

Is this something I should be concerned about or is the wheel
'free' when the auto-pilot is not engaged?

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom





cenel...@aol.com 
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--
Joel
301 541 8551


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Re: Stus-List Perko Head Door Latch

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Is this the one you have?

http://www.perko.com/images/catalog/pdf/0928_1030_Instructions.pdf

On Sun, 8 Jul 2018 at 17:04, David via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Circa 1981... trying to remove to polish it up and make it look
> presentable. But seem to be running into a dead end is there any kind of
> secret that I should know about before I break the darn thing? Thanks in
> advance
>
> Get Outlook for Android
>
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Stus-List You may want to check your balls... :)

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
I was in the process of replacing my running rigging which included the 
adjustable babystay line running back to the cockpit which utilizes a Lewmar 
moveable car (I am pretty sure they are #2 track).  After replacing the line I 
was pushing the car back & forth to check how easy it moved, and when I 
tightened the babystay line, the car surprisingly came off the track.  I then 
subsequently found a large number of various sizes of very worn plastic balls.  
As it turns out, they are the bearings, and the new replacements are made from 
Torlon rather than the white Delrin I found in the cars.  
I found some at a local West Marine, and determined that the 5/16 size fit 
well.  So, I replaced them, and of course now the car moves very, very easily.  
I then determined that the bearings in the jib cars need replacement, and while 
I'm at it, I'll do the traveler as well.  

Then, I found these at McMaster Carr at roughly 1/2 the price of what 
Lewmar/Harken want for them:  https://www.mcmaster.com/#torlon-balls/=1dmpwb5
So, if you want to reduce friction check your balls!  :)  

Hoping you find this helpful, 
  Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Stus-List 37/40 recommendations

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Chuck, my 37+ is a wing keel. The specs say 5 foot 11 inches but she is a solid 
6 foot 2 inches. If draft is an issue KCB was an option and somewhere around 5 
feet.  
Great boat either way. Any specific questions, there are quite a few of us on 
the list. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs 
1989 37+
Midland On.

Sent from my iPad
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cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Donald Kern via CnC-List]

The original forward hatch on my C&C 35 Mk2 (1974) has a few problems 
besides crazing, in that both of the aft hinges have crack in the 
castings and one of the dogs now leaks.  I have been unable to take 
apart the latching dog to try to replace what must be a O-ring failure.  
Has any one successfully repaired this latch?  Is there a direct 
replacement for the hatch and frame?


Don Kern
Fireball 12708
Bristol. RI








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Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Chuck

We upgraded from our 1972 35 MK 1 to Alera about 7 1/2 years ago.  She has a 
wing keel,
 with a 5’6” draft.  I love her more and more the more time I spend aboard.  We 
cruise only.  But she sails like a beast, even loaded down with our cruising 
gear including a chain rode forward and a dinghy on davits aft.

She was fitted with a traveler in front of the pedestal rather that the usual 
track in front of the companionway hatch.  The PO installed a Schaefer in boom 
furling and an electric winch.  My wife and I handled her and will be taking 
off in a few weeks for most of August, including the C&C PNW Rendezvous in the 
Gulf Islands.

The after stateroom makes extended cruising a dream.  The only shortcoming as a 
result of the aft cabin, access into the main cabin is near vertical and he 
cockpit is much shallower that our MK 1.  So, getting situated when heeled can 
be a bit challenging.  

Feel free to reach out or call if you need any further encouragement!



Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Jul 8, 2018, at 5:10 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2018 16:27:26 -0400
> From: Chuck Saur 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List 37/40 recommendations?
> Message-ID:
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Happy summer!  I'm wondering if y'all have opinions/wisdom to share about
> the basic C&C 37/40?  Wing keel...5'3" draft specifically.
> 
> Might be time for my son to take over my 35-3 if I can find the right boat.
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> *Chuck Saur*
> 
> (517)-490-5926
> -- next part --
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