Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Matti Airas via CnC-List]

Hi,

I'd replace the seacocks. Even if you'd never use them in regular
conditions, you're much better off if, say, a hose breaks and you need to
contain the leak.

Cheers,

Matti

On Thu, 24 May 2018 at 07:43, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

No..but i'm going to follow up on that. Used grade 8.Jim
 Original message From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/24/18  12:37 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Russ & Melody  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing 



Hi Jim,


My first question is, "Did someone recommend and use stainless steel
bolts, say 316L, as the "best" for marine
application?"


Cheers,
Russ

Sweet
35mk-1




At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

The boat in question is an 81
landfall 38.

The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of
power.

Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.

The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed
and checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back
and rebuilt. New motor mounts installed by po when replacing engine.
About 4 years ago (<200 hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done
each time and found okay.

I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and
corrections. HELP

Losing confidence in boat.

Thanks

Jim schwartz 

SEA YA I 

38 LF 

Washington nc 




Virus-free. www.avg.com


 ___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List installing a Lewmar V series windlass on a LF38

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Me too

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On May 23, 2018, at 9:06 PM, G Collins via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> More than one!
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C&C 35-III #11
>> On 2018-05-23 10:46 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>> John,
>> 
>> One lister here installed a windlass shelf inside his anchor locker. Very 
>> impressive work.
>> 
>> http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/2014/10/anchor-windlass-shelf.html 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> 
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Starship Enterprise
>> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
>> City Island, NY 
>> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 23, 2018, at 9:37 AM, John via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Hello I am looking for any suggestions on Where to position and mount a 
>>> Lewmar V-series windlass on the deck of a CCLF38 so the motor unit is 
>>> protected from saltwater and the gypsy directs the chain feed into the 
>>> anchor locker. Pictures would also be very helpful. 
>>> 
>>> Thanks 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Worst case might be to remove the seacocks, then you can adequately heat them 
etc to disassemble and rebuild??

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Matti Airas 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 4:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Matti Airas
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

 

Hi,

 

I'd replace the seacocks. Even if you'd never use them in regular conditions, 
you're much better off if, say, a hose breaks and you need to contain the leak.

 

Cheers,

 

Matti

 

On Thu, 24 May 2018 at 07:43, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

 

photos on google drive:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

 

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

 

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?

Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

 

What should I do?

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C&C44

Halifax, NS

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rigging tensions for C&C 35 Mk I

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis, very similar numbers to what my 35 MKII likes; similar rigs
I guess.  I have tried more tension on the uppers, in fact to 1200 and
above as you note and that works fine in 20+ knots apparent wind.  Let me
also say that if you get head stay tension correct then with about 1000 lbs
on the backstay with a 135% headsail she should hold a nearly close hauled
course without a hand on the wheel as long as conditions stay somewhat
constant, balanced almost perfect which on St. Margaret's Bay can be the
whole way across, or about 6 miles.  Watch for other boats in your path
because she will be moving at 7 or better in 15 apparent

If you dare go forward, lie on your back feet forward and sight up the
mast.  You should see a nice bend in the mast to leeward maximum at about
spreader height...that's what works good, caused by the much lower tension
on the forward and aft lowers.  Beautiful bow, who said the mast on a 35
was too big to bend...bends nicely to leeward and loves it...fun stuff to
play with, get a gauge and have fun

Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net


On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 6:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> OK, here's the super secret rig tensions for a 35-1.  Don't tell anyone
> outside the C&C community!
>
> Number are:  Loos #  / Tension in lbs  / %breaking strength
>
> Uppers  34 / 1300 / 21
> Fwd lowers  21 / 640 / 14
> Aft lowers 12 / 270 / 5.5
>
> These tensions should induce a bit of pre-bend in your mast.  Your main
> sail may not be cut for any pre-bend.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 8:59 AM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>>
>>
>> Just curious if anyone has the standing rigging tension for the shrouds
>> on a C&C 35 Mk1.  I have lost my sheets with the numbers.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *Glen Eddie*
>>
>> Tel:  416-777-5357
>>
>> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>>
>> ged...@torkinmanes.com
>>
>> VCard 
>>
>> *Torkin Manes LLP*
>> Barristers & Solicitors
>>
>> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
>> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
>> torkinmanes.com 
>>
>> An international member of Ally Law
>>
>> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
>> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential
>> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received
>> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email
>> message. Thank you.
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Radar Reflector

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

I think some laws of physics are being looked at differently now that
we have a better understanding of the role played by very small
particles like bosons and neutrinos and since we think we have found
the missing energy in the universe calculations...
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 1:16 AM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List
 wrote:
> ... and I have a very logical explanation why you should buy the bridge I 
> have in Brooklyn...;-)
>
> Leslie.
> (unless some laws of physics have changed in the last few years.)
>
>
> 
> On Wed, 5/23/18, robert via CnC-List  wrote:
>
>  Subject: Stus-List Radar Reflector
>  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>  Cc: "robert" 
>  Date: Wednesday, May 23, 2018, 6:25 AM
>
>  A friend with a scientific
>  background offered up an explanation of what
>  'might' have happened to my radar
>  reflector.
>
>  He said
>  "Did you ever put a plastic container that had a bit of
>  metal
>  left behind from the safety seal on
>  its top edge in the microwave oven
>  and hit
>  'Start'.  A small piece of metal will make a big
>  bang
>  accompanied by a flash of fire.
>  Radar waves and microwaves can be in
>  the
>  same gigahertz frequency range.  Maybe your reflector got
>  hit by
>  high power radar gigahertz waves
>  from another vessel and exploded the
>  same
>  as that small piece of metal in a microwave oven."
>
>  The most logical explanation I
>  have heard ..and there was a large
>  commercial vessel leaving the harbor when it
>  exploded.FYI
>
>  Rob
>  Abbott
>  AZURA
>  C&C 32
>  -84
>  Halifax, N.S.
>
>  ___
>
>  Thanks everyone for supporting
>  this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
>  greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
>  PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

I actually had the same problem just with one of my forward seacocks. It
will break loose, but it will take some time. I was at it for a couple
hours at least. I didn't want to rip it off due to them being so difficult
to remove without destroying things. The one thing I will say is don't bang
on the handle that is attached. Take that one off and put on a big wrench
and bang on that instead. Also, it is a tapered bronze seacock, I think I
did end up taking off the nut and washer from the one side and try to tap
it sideways a bit. But be careful with it cause it's easy to damage the
threads. I ended up cutting off the very tip that I had damaged in that
process.

IMHO I like the tapered bronze seacocks much better than the newer ones
that you can find out there these days.

This has a good write up as well
https://www.passagemaker.com/technical/seacocks.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 6:58 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Worst case might be to remove the seacocks, then you can adequately heat
> them etc to disassemble and rebuild??
>
>
>
> John and Maryann
>
> Legacy III
>
> 1982 C&C 34
>
> Noank, CT
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Matti
> Airas via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 4:38 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Matti Airas
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
> I'd replace the seacocks. Even if you'd never use them in regular
> conditions, you're much better off if, say, a hose breaks and you need to
> contain the leak.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Matti
>
>
>
> On Thu, 24 May 2018 at 07:43, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
>
>
> photos on google drive:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
>
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
>
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
>
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
>
>
> What should I do?
>
>
>
> Dan
>
> Breakaweigh
>
> C&C44
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[John Christopher via CnC-List]

Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.

/J

> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
> 
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
> hoses.
> 
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
> 
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
> to budge.
> 
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
> should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
> 
> What should I do?
> 
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
> 
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Kevin Paxton via CnC-List]

forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dan,
>
> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I
> then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the
> handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I
> was able to work them open and closed.
>
> /J
>
> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dan via CnC-List]

Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
in there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
adhered to the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Dan,
>>
>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I
>> then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the
>> handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I
>> was able to work them open and closed.
>>
>> /J
>>
>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>>
>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
>> drain hoses.
>>
>> photos on google drive:
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>
>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
>> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
>> them to budge.
>>
>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
>> or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
>> cockpit drains?
>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>
>> What should I do?
>>
>> Dan
>> Breakaweigh
>> C&C44
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Back when I worked on boats we tried EVERYTHING – new bolts, better bolts, 
safety wire, etc etc. to solve an issue like this.
What turned out to be the issue was one bad motor mount that let the engine 
yank way out of position going into gear.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 6:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

No..but i'm going to follow up on that. Used grade 8.
Jim

 Original message 
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 5/24/18 12:37 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing


Hi Jim,

My first question is, "Did someone recommend and use stainless steel bolts, say 
316L, as the "best" for marine application?"

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35mk-1


At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.
Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed and 
checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back and rebuilt. 
New motor mounts installed by po when replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200 
hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and found okay.
I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and corrections. HELP
Losing confidence in boat.
Thanks
Jim schwartz
SEA YA I
38 LF
Washington nc

[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-green-avg-v1.png]

Virus-free. 
www.avg.com


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Radar Reflector

[robert via CnC-List]

A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity, an optimist sees 
the opportunity in every difficulty.


Rob
(unless some laws of human nature have changed in the last few years)



On 2018-05-24 1:16 AM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List wrote:

... and I have a very logical explanation why you should buy the bridge I have 
in Brooklyn...;-)

Leslie.
(unless some laws of physics have changed in the last few years.)



On Wed, 5/23/18, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

  Subject: Stus-List Radar Reflector
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: "robert" 
  Date: Wednesday, May 23, 2018, 6:25 AM
  
  A friend with a scientific

  background offered up an explanation of what
  'might' have happened to my radar
  reflector.
  
  He said

  "Did you ever put a plastic container that had a bit of
  metal
  left behind from the safety seal on
  its top edge in the microwave oven
  and hit
  'Start'.  A small piece of metal will make a big
  bang
  accompanied by a flash of fire.
  Radar waves and microwaves can be in
  the
  same gigahertz frequency range.  Maybe your reflector got
  hit by
  high power radar gigahertz waves
  from another vessel and exploded the
  same
  as that small piece of metal in a microwave oven."
  
  The most logical explanation I

  have heard ..and there was a large
  commercial vessel leaving the harbor when it
  exploded.FYI
  
  Rob

  Abbott
  AZURA
  C&C 32
  -84
  Halifax, N.S.
  
  ___
  
  Thanks everyone for supporting

  this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
  greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
  PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
  
  


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Set a couple o' dial indicators on the v-drive,
near the coupling, and cycle her in & out of
gear. The dial indicators will show any
deflection and the amount. You might have to move
them around and try different angles to get the full picture.

Cheers, Russ

At 05:20 AM 5/24/2018, you wrote:

Content-Language: en-US
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="_000_b707fc99bda54becb67743b7509e2d18NSCDAG306baadssagov_"

Back when I worked on boats we tried EVERYTHING
– new bolts, better bolts, safetyy wire, etc etc. to solve an issue like this.
What turned out to be the issue was one bad
motor mount that let the engine yank way out of position going into gear.
Joe
Coquina

From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 6:09 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

No..but i'm going to follow up on that. Used grade 8.
Jim

 Original message 
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Date: 5/24/18 12:37 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody <russ...@telus.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing


Hi Jim,

My first question is, "Did someone recommend and
use stainless steel bolts, say 316L, as the "best" for marine application?"

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35mk-1


At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.
Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all
this. The shaft removed and checked after the
second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back
and rebuilt. New motor mounts installed by po
when replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200
hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and found okay.
I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar
situations and corrections. HELP
Losing confidence in boat.
Thanks
Jim schwartz
SEA YA I
38 LF
Washington nc



[]

Virus-free.
www.avg.com


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with
your contributions.  Each and every one is
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the
list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

[schiller via CnC-List]

Joe brings up a good point.  Have someone look at the failed bolts.  It 
should be evident as to whether the failure was shear or fatigue due to 
a misaligned engine or twisting due to broken motor mount.


The failed surfaces will look different between a shear failure and low 
cycle fatigue.


Neil Schiller
1983 C&C 35-3, #028
"Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 5/24/2018 8:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Back when I worked on boats we tried EVERYTHING – new bolts, better 
bolts, safety wire, etc etc. to solve an issue like this.


What turned out to be the issue was one bad motor mount that let the 
engine yank way out of position going into gear.


Joe

Coquina

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*detroito91 via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 6:09 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* detroito91 
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

No..but i'm going to follow up on that. Used grade 8.

Jim

 Original message 

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List >


Date: 5/24/18 12:37 AM (GMT-05:00)

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Russ & Melody mailto:russ...@telus.net>>

Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing


Hi Jim,

My first question is, "Did someone recommend and use stainless steel 
bolts, say 316L, as the "best" for marine application?"


Cheers, Russ
/Sweet /35mk-1


At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused
loss of power.
Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft
removed and checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop
sent back and rebuilt. New motor mounts installed by po when
replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200 hours on engine)
coupling. Allignment done each time and found okay.
I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and
corrections. HELP
Losing confidence in boat.
Thanks
Jim schwartz
SEA YA I
38 LF
Washington nc





Virus-free. www.avg.com 
 





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
in the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
> damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
> in there and doing it's thing...
>
> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be
> a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
> They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
> adhered to the hull.
>
> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>
> Dan
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Dan,
>>>
>>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress.
>>> I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over
>>> the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its
>>> best$ I was able to work them open and closed.
>>>
>>> /J
>>>
>>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>>>
>>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
>>> drain hoses.
>>>
>>> photos on google drive:
>>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>>
>>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
>>> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
>>> them to budge.
>>>
>>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of
>>> replacement or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close
>>> seacocks to the cockpit drains?
>>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>>
>>> What should I do?
>>>
>>> Dan
>>> Breakaweigh
>>> C&C44
>>> Halifax, NS
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: cockpit drain seacocks

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

When one of my seacocks was stuck closed I poured some penetrating oil down the 
scupper and let it sit overnight. The next day it worked fine ☺
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 9:03 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.
/J

On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan 
mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dan via CnC-List]

I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
the removed hose?

Dan



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
> in the top?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't
>> damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting
>> in there and doing it's thing...
>>
>> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be
>> a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them.
>> They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well
>> adhered to the hull.
>>
>> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>>
>> Dan
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
>>> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi Dan,

 I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress.
 I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over
 the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its
 best$ I was able to work them open and closed.

 /J

 On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:

 I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
 drain hoses.

 photos on google drive:
 https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

 I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
 position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
 them to budge.

 My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of
 replacement or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close
 seacocks to the cockpit drains?
 Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

 What should I do?

 Dan
 Breakaweigh
 C&C44
 Halifax, NS


 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

When I was removing front wheel bearings on my Chev Silverado a few years back 
the first one was stuck and required penetrating oil, heat and a lot of whacks 
with a very large hammer.  This process too several hours and was NOT 
non-destructive

A year later when a MVI forced me to replace the other side the mechanic told 
me that he sprays on the penetration oil at the end of the day and leaves the 
vehicle over night before attempting to remove the bearing.  I did this and it 
came off much more easily.  The lesson is to apply the penetrating oil and wait 
a day

Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil as I 
believe that is a lubricant.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:15 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total), sprayed 
inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have loosened that 
tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my mind, but now it 
makes complete sense. I can try spraying from undneath/outside the boat which 
would have the same effect as spraying from the removed hose?

Dan



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.
/J

On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan 
mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>> wrote:
I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

By the way the best penetrating oil according to  a test I saw was not a brand 
oil, nut a 50/50  mix of acetone and ATF.  I forgot where I saw that, but the 
test seemed valid at the time.
Bruce Whitmore 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 5/24/18  9:02 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: CnClist 
 Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks 
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?
Dennis C.
On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...
The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.
Thanks guys, will update with progress!
Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
 wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it 
loose.https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi Dan,
I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.

/J
On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.
photos on google 
drive:https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.
My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
What should I do?
DanBreakaweighC&C44Halifax, NS


___



Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





___



Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray







___



Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray






___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

For example here: 
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/penetrating-oil-showdown.350800/

Marek

From: bwhitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:24
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bwhitmore
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

By the way the best penetrating oil according to  a test I saw was not a brand 
oil, nut a 50/50  mix of acetone and ATF.  I forgot where I saw that, but the 
test seemed valid at the time.

Bruce Whitmore




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

WD-40 is, as the name suggests “water displacement” agent. It is not a good 
lubricant, nor a good penetrating oil.

Marek

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:21
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks


Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil as I 
believe that is a lubricant.

Mike
Persistence
Halifax, NS




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dan via CnC-List]

I'll give liquid wrench a try tonight and have at it over the weekend and
get back to you guys.

Thanks for all help! - I'm glad this list exists :)

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:37 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> WD-40 is, as the name suggests “water displacement” agent. It is not a
> good lubricant, nor a good penetrating oil.
>
> Marek
>
> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:21
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>
>
>
>
> Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil
> as I believe that is a lubricant.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List 1981 C&C 34 second propane locker?

[DMcMillan via CnC-List]

I have a 1981 C&C with a propane locker on starboard side next to the
helmsman seat.  On the port side there is an identical looking locker but
the "lid" does not have any hinges and seems to be glued down.   Has anyone
converted this to a second propane locker?

 

Thanks

Dennis

Andante

Victoria BC

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Dan,

A heat gun or torch will aid the process if it is an all bronze seacock.

Good luck!

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 9:41 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I'll give liquid wrench a try tonight and have at it over the weekend and
> get back to you guys.
>
> Thanks for all help! - I'm glad this list exists :)
>
> Dan
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:37 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> WD-40 is, as the name suggests “water displacement” agent. It is not a
>> good lubricant, nor a good penetrating oil.
>>
>> Marek
>>
>> *From:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:21
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil
>> as I believe that is a lubricant.
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> Persistence
>>
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
> the removed hose?
>
> Dan
>
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the
>> outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it
>> in the top?
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I
>>> haven't damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly
>>> getting in there and doing it's thing...
>>>
>>> The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would
>>> be a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free
>>> them. They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are
>>> well adhered to the hull.
>>>
>>> Thanks guys, will update with progress!
>>>
>>> Dan
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
 https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

 On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dan,
>
> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no
> progress. I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as
> leverage over the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage
> working at its best$ I was able to work them open and closed.
>
> /J
>
> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
> drain hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the
> open position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't
> get them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of
> replacement or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close
> seacocks to the cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> list
> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

or a wood plug

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:43 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a
> liquid penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances
> are most of it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a
> way to plug the seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the
> top of the plug when you pour from the top it may then seep around the
> plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total),
>> sprayed inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have
>> loosened that tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my
>> mind, but now it makes complete sense. I can try spraying from
>> undneath/outside the boat which would have the same effect as spraying from
>> the removed hose?
>>
>> Dan
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on
>>> the outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put
>>> it in the top?
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List >> > wrote:
>>>
 Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I
 haven't damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly
 getting in there and doing it's thing...

 The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would
 be a real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free
 them. They do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are
 well adhered to the hull.

 Thanks guys, will update with progress!

 Dan

 On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
> https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Dan,
>>
>> I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no
>> progress. I then got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as
>> leverage over the handles, and seemingly without much effort (leverage
>> working at its best$ I was able to work them open and closed.
>>
>> /J
>>
>> On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan  wrote:
>>
>> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my
>> cockpit drain hoses.
>>
>> photos on google drive:
>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>>
>> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the
>> open position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't
>> get them to budge.
>>
>> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of
>> replacement or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close
>> seacocks to the cockpit drains?
>> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>>
>> What should I do?
>>
>> Dan
>> Breakaweigh
>> C&C44
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
>> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
>> list
>> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurr
>> ay
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.
> Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
> list
> - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>

 ___

 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
 and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___

Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

When I was installing my rebuilt Yanmar 3QM30, I called the folks at 
Transmission Marine Inc in Fort Lauderdale, FL for some advice (and I needed to 
purchase a replacement dipstick for the paragon).  They strongly stressed the 
importance of precise shaft alignment to avoid future problems.  First 
mentioned was the Walter v-drive seals failing is not properly aligned.   I 
spent plenty of time aligning using feeler gauges on all sides of the coupler.  
After the first year, I verified the alignment.   So far, I have not have any 
issues with the v-drive coupler.  

I would NOT recommend stainless steel bolts.  As I recall, stainless has less 
than 25% of the sheer strength compared to a grade 8 bolt.  Grade 8 bolts are 
industry standard for demanding applications such as automotive suspensions.  I 
used nickel anti-seize on the bolts and keep the coupler painted and corrosion 
free.  


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On May 24, 2018, at 8:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List   >>
> Date: 5/24/18 12:37 AM (GMT-05:00)
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>  >
> Cc: Russ & Melody   >>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing
> 
> 
> Hi Jim,
> 
> My first question is, "Did someone recommend and use stainless steel bolts, 
> say 316L, as the "best" for marine application?"
> 
>Cheers, Russ
>Sweet 35mk-1
> 
> 
> At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:
> 
> The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
> The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.
> Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
> The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed and 
> checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back and rebuilt. 
> New motor mounts installed by po when replacing engine. About 4 years ago 
> (<200 hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and found okay.
> I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and corrections. 
> HELP
> Losing confidence in boat.
> Thanks
> Jim schwartz
> SEA YA I
> 38 LF
> Washington nc

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34 second propane locker?

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Dennis,

 

If you are looking for backup propane storage, let me offer a suggestion.  I
only can carry one tank and have a 5 kg fiberglass tank.  Theoretically, you
can see the level in the tank but have to remember to check it.  There is
room in my propane locker for three 1 pound camp stove cylinders.  I bought
an adaptor
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YSY20/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage
?ie=UTF8
 &psc=1) so a cylinder can be connected in place of the tank.
For me this is especially good since my propane grille and outboard use the
1 pound cylinder.

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DMcMillan
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:13 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: DMcMillan
Subject: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34 second propane locker?

 

I have a 1981 C&C with a propane locker on starboard side next to the
helmsman seat.  On the port side there is an identical looking locker but
the "lid" does not have any hinges and seems to be glued down.   Has anyone
converted this to a second propane locker?

 

Thanks

Dennis

Andante

Victoria BC

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Great suggestions.  Will do. Was planning on grade 8 bolts.Can do alot of 
thinking during my 6 hour tow back to my slip!Thanks jim
 Original message From: Dreuge via CnC-List 
 Date: 5/24/18  11:07 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Dreuge  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Coupling bolts shearing 
When I was installing my rebuilt Yanmar 3QM30, I called the folks at 
Transmission Marine Inc in Fort Lauderdale, FL for some advice (and I needed to 
purchase a replacement dipstick for the paragon).  They strongly stressed the 
importance of precise shaft alignment to avoid future problems.  First 
mentioned was the Walter v-drive seals failing is not properly aligned.   I 
spent plenty of time aligning using feeler gauges on all sides of the coupler.  
After the first year, I verified the alignment.   So far, I have not have any 
issues with the v-drive coupler.  
I would NOT recommend stainless steel bolts.  As I recall, stainless has less 
than 25% of the sheer strength compared to a grade 8 bolt.  Grade 8 bolts are 
industry standard for demanding applications such as automotive suspensions.  I 
used nickel anti-seize on the bolts and keep the coupler painted and corrosion 
free.  

-
Paul E.1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
On May 24, 2018, at 8:20 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 5/24/18 12:37 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing


Hi Jim,

My first question is, "Did someone recommend and use stainless steel bolts, say 
316L, as the "best" for marine application?"

   Cheers, Russ
   Sweet 35mk-1


At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.
Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed and 
checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back and rebuilt. 
New motor mounts installed by po when replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200 
hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and found okay.
I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and corrections. HELP
Losing confidence in boat.
Thanks
Jim schwartz
SEA YA I
38 LF
Washington nc
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Coupling bolts shearing

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Once you get your new bolts in, get someone to shift F-N-R while you watch the 
engine and motor mounts. See if one or more of the mounts is allowing excess 
movement.
For once I am glad to not have rubber motor mounts, my engine is hard-bolted to 
the boat.
Joe
Coquina



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of detroito91 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 12:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91 ; Dreuge 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

Great suggestions.  Will do. Was planning on grade 8 bolts.
Can do alot of thinking during my 6 hour tow back to my slip!
Thanks jim

 Original message 
From: Dreuge via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 5/24/18 11:07 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dreuge mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing

When I was installing my rebuilt Yanmar 3QM30, I called the folks at 
Transmission Marine Inc in Fort Lauderdale, FL for some advice (and I needed to 
purchase a replacement dipstick for the paragon).  They strongly stressed the 
importance of precise shaft alignment to avoid future problems.  First 
mentioned was the Walter v-drive seals failing is not properly aligned.   I 
spent plenty of time aligning using feeler gauges on all sides of the coupler.  
After the first year, I verified the alignment.   So far, I have not have any 
issues with the v-drive coupler.

I would NOT recommend stainless steel bolts.  As I recall, stainless has less 
than 25% of the sheer strength compared to a grade 8 bolt.  Grade 8 bolts are 
industry standard for demanding applications such as automotive suspensions.  I 
used nickel anti-seize on the bolts and keep the coupler painted and corrosion 
free.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/


On May 24, 2018, at 8:20 AM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

From: Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 5/24/18 12:37 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Russ & Melody 
mailto:russ...@telus.net>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Coupling bolts shearing


Hi Jim,

My first question is, "Did someone recommend and use stainless steel bolts, say 
316L, as the "best" for marine application?"

   Cheers, Russ
   Sweet 35mk-1


At 11:48 AM 5/23/2018, you wrote:

The boat in question is an 81 landfall 38.
The v-drive coupling bolts have sheared off 3 times and caused loss of power.
Have been very careful to pause when changing gears.
The westerbeak engine runs great throughout all this. The shaft removed and 
checked after the second  time. The 2 bladed max prop sent back and rebuilt. 
New motor mounts installed by po when replacing engine. About 4 years ago (<200 
hours on engine) coupling. Allignment done each time and found okay.
I am looking for advice,  suggestions, similar situations and corrections. HELP
Losing confidence in boat.
Thanks
Jim schwartz
SEA YA I
38 LF
Washington nc

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34 second propane locker?

[Al Serrato via CnC-List]

I have the same boat and on mine, the locker has a hinge and I use it for extra 
lines/dock lines.

Sent from my iPad

> On May 24, 2018, at 11:49 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dennis,
>  
> If you are looking for backup propane storage, let me offer a suggestion.  I 
> only can carry one tank and have a 5 kg fiberglass tank.  Theoretically, you 
> can see the level in the tank but have to remember to check it.  There is 
> room in my propane locker for three 1 pound camp stove cylinders.  I bought 
> an adaptor 
> (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YSY20/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
>  so a cylinder can be connected in place of the tank.  For me this is 
> especially good since my propane grille and outboard use the 1 pound cylinder.
>  
> Regards,
> Ron
> Ron Ricci
> S/V Patriot
> C&C 37+
> Bristol, RI
> 
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of DMcMillan 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:13 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: DMcMillan
> Subject: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34 second propane locker?
>  
> I have a 1981 C&C with a propane locker on starboard side next to the 
> helmsman seat.  On the port side there is an identical looking locker but the 
> “lid” does not have any hinges and seems to be glued down.   Has anyone 
> converted this to a second propane locker?
>  
> Thanks
> Dennis
> Andante
> Victoria BC
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List 1981 C&C 34 second propane locker?

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Dennis:

If you will open the port tank locker, you will notice that the hinge is
not visible on the outside. My 1981 C&C 34 has a storage locker on the port
side of the helm. The locker also contains a wash down spray nozzle and is
vented to the atmosphere. Try prying the lid open.

Ed Levert
1981 C&C 34
Briar Patch
New ORleans, La.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:49 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dennis,
>
>
>
> If you are looking for backup propane storage, let me offer a suggestion.
> I only can carry one tank and have a 5 kg fiberglass tank.  Theoretically,
> you can see the level in the tank but have to remember to check it.  There
> is room in my propane locker for three 1 pound camp stove cylinders.  I
> bought an adaptor (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/
> product/B0002YSY20/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) so a
> cylinder can be connected in place of the tank.  For me this is especially
> good since my propane grille and outboard use the 1 pound cylinder.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C&C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *DMcMillan
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:13 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* DMcMillan
> *Subject:* Stus-List 1981 C&C 34 second propane locker?
>
>
>
> I have a 1981 C&C with a propane locker on starboard side next to the
> helmsman seat.  On the port side there is an identical looking locker but
> the “lid” does not have any hinges and seems to be glued down.   Has anyone
> converted this to a second propane locker?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Dennis
>
> Andante
>
> Victoria BC
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C&C 34 second propane locker

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

Dennis, Yes I have done it in our 1981 36. You need to remove the lid and 
reinstall it with ss hinge(s), it’s screwed on from below and you may be able 
to get there from the inspection port with a long arm. I used a suitable piece 
of cardboard sono tube for a mold and wrapped it with glass and epoxy. I built 
a 1 inch tab (lip) on top and used the round glass I cut out for the bottom of 
the new locker. I installed a drain in the bottom. The tricky part is finding 
an appropriate sized propane tank to fit the locker and installing an above 
waterline thru Hull and hose to vent the locker. I only used it for safe 
storage, you could pipe it if necessary. Contact me off list if you need more 
information. It was a fun job that only required basic measuring skills. 
Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 37+
Midland On

Sent from my iPad
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Recently my X5 autopilot has lost its way.  It seems ok at first.  Then begins 
to over correct course changes and then goes down hill from there. 

We are out on our first cruise of the year over the long US weekend.  It 
started acting up.  Are starting the pilot seems to help.   It  oat for long  
then after a few hours of minor issues the sailing instruments went out.  

The breaker was tripped.  Resting worked fine for w while.  But then went out 
again.  Last try I just avoided using the pillar and it seemed like that is the 
source of the problem.  Longer run tomorrow.  So I should be able to confirm 
that.

A few questions for the C&C hivemind...

Any simple way to diagnose the pilot head?

How much to replace the pilot?

How much to replace the wheel pilot with a below deck set up?

Thought, recommendations and pithy remarks are appreciated.

thx

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Tom,

I have the same issue with my autopilot. According to Raymarine, this has 
something to do with your rudder-over setting. They say if you adjust that and 
test, it should correct.

I haven’t tried it yet, since we just launched last week, but will do so soon. 

Not very pithy today. Stuck in the office while it’s 79, sunny, 5-10, with a 
Starship only 20 miles away….. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 










> On May 24, 2018, at 5:16 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Recently my X5 autopilot has lost its way.  It seems ok at first.  Then 
> begins to over correct course changes and then goes down hill from there. 
> 
> We are out on our first cruise of the year over the long US weekend.  It 
> started acting up.  Are starting the pilot seems to help.   It  oat for long  
> then after a few hours of minor issues the sailing instruments went out.  
> 
> The breaker was tripped.  Resting worked fine for w while.  But then went out 
> again.  Last try I just avoided using the pillar and it seemed like that is 
> the source of the problem.  Longer run tomorrow.  So I should be able to 
> confirm that.
> 
> A few questions for the C&C hivemind...
> 
> Any simple way to diagnose the pilot head?
> 
> How much to replace the pilot?
> 
> How much to replace the wheel pilot with a below deck set up?
> 
> Thought, recommendations and pithy remarks are appreciated.
> 
> thx
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Tom,
 There information in your email isn't clear enough to offer a
thoughtful diagnosis, but if you are considering a below deck auto pilot,
I can offer the following advice.

 I would suggest a wheel pilot is insufficient to handle a boat the
size of a 37+, so you should consider a below deck unit.  If you decide on
a below deck unit, the install in a 37+ is not trivial (in most cases), so
contact me directly if you want more insight.  Ron Ricci has some
experience as well.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 5:16 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Recently my X5 autopilot has lost its way.  It seems ok at first.  Then
> begins to over correct course changes and then goes down hill from there.
>
> We are out on our first cruise of the year over the long US weekend.  It
> started acting up.  Are starting the pilot seems to help.   It  oat for
> long  then after a few hours of minor issues the sailing instruments went
> out.
>
> The breaker was tripped.  Resting worked fine for w while.  But then went
> out again.  Last try I just avoided using the pillar and it seemed like
> that is the source of the problem.  Longer run tomorrow.  So I should be
> able to confirm that.
>
> A few questions for the C&C hivemind...
>
> Any simple way to diagnose the pilot head?
>
> How much to replace the pilot?
>
> How much to replace the wheel pilot with a below deck set up?
>
> Thought, recommendations and pithy remarks are appreciated.
>
> thx
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List Real nice 35-1 coming on market soon

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

No, it's not Touche' but might even be better.

One of the reasons I bought Touche' was my impressions of  my friend's
35-1, Hull #61.  He told me today he is thinking of selling.  He has owned
the boat for 20+ years and has made many, many upgrades.  Here's some of
the niceties:

Generator.  Yep, a nice professionally installed generator. Only about 125
hours on it.
CruisAir air conditioner.  Why else would you need a generator?
Universal 25XPB diesel engine.
On board fuel polishing system.  No gunk in this tank!
Lines run aft.
Cabin top traveler.  Yep, that's right.  And it's a Harken.

Lots of other goodies.  Expanded list and details being drafted up.

This 35-1 is every bit as nice as Touche' and, in some ways, better.
Located Mandeville, LA.

No firm pricing yet but seller seems to be flexible.  I'm guessing
mid-upper 30's.  Great sail away boat.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Start by checking the connection at the motor on wheel pilot on the wheel

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 6:30 PM Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Tom,
>  There information in your email isn't clear enough to offer a
> thoughtful diagnosis, but if you are considering a below deck auto pilot,
> I can offer the following advice.
>
>  I would suggest a wheel pilot is insufficient to handle a boat the
> size of a 37+, so you should consider a below deck unit.  If you decide on
> a below deck unit, the install in a 37+ is not trivial (in most cases), so
> contact me directly if you want more insight.  Ron Ricci has some
> experience as well.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 5:16 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Recently my X5 autopilot has lost its way.  It seems ok at first.  Then
>> begins to over correct course changes and then goes down hill from there.
>>
>> We are out on our first cruise of the year over the long US weekend.  It
>> started acting up.  Are starting the pilot seems to help.   It  oat for
>> long  then after a few hours of minor issues the sailing instruments went
>> out.
>>
>> The breaker was tripped.  Resting worked fine for w while.  But then went
>> out again.  Last try I just avoided using the pillar and it seemed like
>> that is the source of the problem.  Longer run tomorrow.  So I should be
>> able to confirm that.
>>
>> A few questions for the C&C hivemind...
>>
>> Any simple way to diagnose the pilot head?
>>
>> How much to replace the pilot?
>>
>> How much to replace the wheel pilot with a below deck set up?
>>
>> Thought, recommendations and pithy remarks are appreciated.
>>
>> thx
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>> C 305.409.3660
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> --
Joel
301 541 8551
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Raymarine Autopilot gone mad!

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I seem to recall that the Raymarine autopilot has to be linearized when
first installed, but also if any of the instruments on the Seatalk buss are
changed.  Linearization consists of  turning two 360 degree slow turns
(about three to five minutes each).  Your owner's manual has the steps to
take.  Even if you don't think you need to do this, do it anyway.  I had to
do that when I installed a new wind transducer.  Other things you can check
are:  make sure there is nothing (iron or steel) near the magnetic sensor
for the autopilot, and also make sure that there is no RF close to the
autopilot wiring.  For the latter, try running without the VHF turned on.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 2:16 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Recently my X5 autopilot has lost its way.  It seems ok at first.  Then
> begins to over correct course changes and then goes down hill from there.
>
> We are out on our first cruise of the year over the long US weekend.  It
> started acting up.  Are starting the pilot seems to help.   It  oat for
> long  then after a few hours of minor issues the sailing instruments went
> out.
>
> The breaker was tripped.  Resting worked fine for w while.  But then went
> out again.  Last try I just avoided using the pillar and it seemed like
> that is the source of the problem.  Longer run tomorrow.  So I should be
> able to confirm that.
>
> A few questions for the C&C hivemind...
>
> Any simple way to diagnose the pilot head?
>
> How much to replace the pilot?
>
> How much to replace the wheel pilot with a below deck set up?
>
> Thought, recommendations and pithy remarks are appreciated.
>
> thx
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=
> 9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> B71HaZqLELn0WZRL42ASIN5m1zsxLpudcfuVv69_A00&s=-bYpA7uEvjeO6QcZoAy-
> f0jDcKNDECD8wQYRC-ivSpw&e=
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rigging tensions for C&C 35 Mk I

[jcn--- via CnC-List]

Dennis
Which model of Loos gauge are you using?

Sent from my iPad

> On May 24, 2018, at 6:18 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks Dennis, very similar numbers to what my 35 MKII likes; similar rigs I 
> guess.  I have tried more tension on the uppers, in fact to 1200 and above as 
> you note and that works fine in 20+ knots apparent wind.  Let me also say 
> that if you get head stay tension correct then with about 1000 lbs on the 
> backstay with a 135% headsail she should hold a nearly close hauled course 
> without a hand on the wheel as long as conditions stay somewhat constant, 
> balanced almost perfect which on St. Margaret's Bay can be the whole way 
> across, or about 6 miles.  Watch for other boats in your path because she 
> will be moving at 7 or better in 15 apparent 
> 
> If you dare go forward, lie on your back feet forward and sight up the mast.  
> You should see a nice bend in the mast to leeward maximum at about spreader 
> height...that's what works good, caused by the much lower tension on the 
> forward and aft lowers.  Beautiful bow, who said the mast on a 35 was too big 
> to bend...bends nicely to leeward and loves it...fun stuff to play with, get 
> a gauge and have fun
> 
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
> 
> 
>> On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 6:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> OK, here's the super secret rig tensions for a 35-1.  Don't tell anyone 
>> outside the C&C community!
>> 
>> Number are:  Loos #  / Tension in lbs  / %breaking strength
>> 
>> Uppers  34 / 1300 / 21
>> Fwd lowers  21 / 640 / 14
>> Aft lowers 12 / 270 / 5.5
>> 
>> These tensions should induce a bit of pre-bend in your mast.  Your main sail 
>> may not be cut for any pre-bend.
>> 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>> 
>>> On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 8:59 AM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hello everyone,
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Just curious if anyone has the standing rigging tension for the shrouds on 
>>> a C&C 35 Mk1.  I have lost my sheets with the numbers.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Glen Eddie
>>> 
>>> Tel:  416-777-5357
>>> 
>>> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>>> 
>>> ged...@torkinmanes.com
>>> 
>>> VCard
>>> 
>>> Torkin Manes LLP
>>> Barristers & Solicitors
>>> 
>>> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
>>> Toronto ON M5C 2W7 
>>> torkinmanes.com
>>> 
>>> An international member of Ally Law
>>> 
>>> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
>>> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
>>> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received 
>>> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email 
>>> message. Thank you.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Rigging tensions for C&C 35 Mk I

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

PT-2

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 6:23 PM, jcn--- via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dennis
> Which model of Loos gauge are you using?
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On May 24, 2018, at 6:18 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks Dennis, very similar numbers to what my 35 MKII likes; similar rigs
> I guess.  I have tried more tension on the uppers, in fact to 1200 and
> above as you note and that works fine in 20+ knots apparent wind.  Let me
> also say that if you get head stay tension correct then with about 1000 lbs
> on the backstay with a 135% headsail she should hold a nearly close hauled
> course without a hand on the wheel as long as conditions stay somewhat
> constant, balanced almost perfect which on St. Margaret's Bay can be the
> whole way across, or about 6 miles.  Watch for other boats in your path
> because she will be moving at 7 or better in 15 apparent
>
> If you dare go forward, lie on your back feet forward and sight up the
> mast.  You should see a nice bend in the mast to leeward maximum at about
> spreader height...that's what works good, caused by the much lower tension
> on the forward and aft lowers.  Beautiful bow, who said the mast on a 35
> was too big to bend...bends nicely to leeward and loves it...fun stuff to
> play with, get a gauge and have fun
>
> Dwight Veinot
> C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
> Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
> d.ve...@bellaliant.net
>
>
> On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 6:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> OK, here's the super secret rig tensions for a 35-1.  Don't tell anyone
>> outside the C&C community!
>>
>> Number are:  Loos #  / Tension in lbs  / %breaking strength
>>
>> Uppers  34 / 1300 / 21
>> Fwd lowers  21 / 640 / 14
>> Aft lowers 12 / 270 / 5.5
>>
>> These tensions should induce a bit of pre-bend in your mast.  Your main
>> sail may not be cut for any pre-bend.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Wed, May 23, 2018 at 8:59 AM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hello everyone,
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Just curious if anyone has the standing rigging tension for the shrouds
>>> on a C&C 35 Mk1.  I have lost my sheets with the numbers.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>>
>>> *Glen Eddie*
>>>
>>> Tel:  416-777-5357
>>>
>>> Fax:  1-888-812-2557
>>>
>>> ged...@torkinmanes.com
>>>
>>> VCard 
>>>
>>> *Torkin Manes LLP*
>>> Barristers & Solicitors
>>>
>>> 151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
>>> Toronto ON M5C 2W7
>>> torkinmanes.com 
>>>
>>> An international member of Ally Law
>>>
>>> This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named
>>> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential
>>> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received
>>> this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email
>>> message. Thank you.
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>>
>>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List C&C 35 Mk 3 Spinnaker Like New

[Rod Stright via CnC-List]

Clearing out inventory to make room for new.



One C&C 35 Mk 3 North Spinnaker, 1 oz., very good condition, was asking $1100 
reduced to $800 usd.  Pictures available to those interested.



strig...@eastlink.ca 







---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Real nice 35-1 coming on market soon

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

I am trying and failing to see where I would put a generator!

Joe

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I


On 5/24/2018 6:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

No, it's not Touche' but might even be better.

One of the reasons I bought Touche' was my impressions of my friend's 
35-1, Hull #61.  He told me today he is thinking of selling.  He has 
owned the boat for 20+ years and has made many, many upgrades.  Here's 
some of the niceties:


Generator.  Yep, a nice professionally installed generator. Only about 
125 hours on it.

CruisAir air conditioner.  Why else would you need a generator?
Universal 25XPB diesel engine.
On board fuel polishing system.  No gunk in this tank!
Lines run aft.
Cabin top traveler.  Yep, that's right.  And it's a Harken.

Lots of other goodies.  Expanded list and details being drafted up.

This 35-1 is every bit as nice as Touche' and, in some ways, better.  
Located Mandeville, LA.


No firm pricing yet but seller seems to be flexible.  I'm guessing 
mid-upper 30's.  Great sail away boat.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Real nice 35-1 coming on market soon

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Aft end of quarter berth.

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 6:52 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am trying and failing to see where I would put a generator!
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
> C&C 35 MK I
>
> On 5/24/2018 6:29 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> No, it's not Touche' but might even be better.
>
> One of the reasons I bought Touche' was my impressions of  my friend's
> 35-1, Hull #61.  He told me today he is thinking of selling.  He has owned
> the boat for 20+ years and has made many, many upgrades.  Here's some of
> the niceties:
>
> Generator.  Yep, a nice professionally installed generator. Only about 125
> hours on it.
> CruisAir air conditioner.  Why else would you need a generator?
> Universal 25XPB diesel engine.
> On board fuel polishing system.  No gunk in this tank!
> Lines run aft.
> Cabin top traveler.  Yep, that's right.  And it's a Harken.
>
> Lots of other goodies.  Expanded list and details being drafted up.
>
> This 35-1 is every bit as nice as Touche' and, in some ways, better.
> Located Mandeville, LA.
>
> No firm pricing yet but seller seems to be flexible.  I'm guessing
> mid-upper 30's.  Great sail away boat.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Hi Dan

I'd take the nuts and washer off, and rig up some sort of press.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-24 1:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS





___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[G Collins via CnC-List]

You can also screw a grease gun fitting into the threaded holes on either side, 
and pump some grease in.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2018-05-24 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

Dennis C.

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

Dan

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.
https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dan,

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.

/J

On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan 
mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com>> wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray






___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[dwight veinot via CnC-List]

sounds like you have grocco bronze seacocks, they are really good and
you can make them work, try harder I think they might have a loosening
nut on the lever...they will need to function to pass survey...
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 1:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain
> hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or
> should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Are you in the water?   Mine would freeze after being on the hard for the 
winter but free up again after being in the water

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List  on behalf of dwight veinot via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 8:21:57 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: dwight veinot
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

sounds like you have grocco bronze seacocks, they are really good and
you can make them work, try harder I think they might have a loosening
nut on the lever...they will need to function to pass survey...
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, Alianna
Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS
d.ve...@bellaliant.net



On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 1:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List  wrote:
> I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain
> hoses.
>
> photos on google drive:
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY
>
> I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
> position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
> them to budge.
>
> My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or
> should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
> cockpit drains?
> Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.
>
> What should I do?
>
> Dan
> Breakaweigh
> C&C44
> Halifax, NS
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

The preferred penetration oil by heavy equipment, lift truck and diesel 
mechanics (based on better than 30 years experience on the service and 
engineering sides of those industries) is PB Blaster. Available at just about 
any auto parts, NAPPA, Walmart, Lowes, etc. 

 

Liquid Wrench is marginally better than WD-40.

 

WD-40 is the best diesel starting spray you can buy – and that is about all a 
mechanic will use it for.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dan via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 9:42 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dan 
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

 

I'll give liquid wrench a try tonight and have at it over the weekend and get 
back to you guys.

 

Thanks for all help! - I'm glad this list exists :)

 

Dan

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:37 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

WD-40 is, as the name suggests “water displacement” agent. It is not a good 
lubricant, nor a good penetrating oil.

 

Marek

 

From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 09:21

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com   

Cc: Hoyt, Mike 

Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

 

 

Also … did you say WD 40?  Perhaps you might try a better penetrating oil as I 
believe that is a lubricant.

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax, NS

 

 

 

 


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Dan;

 

The “drain” plugs you mention are actually for lubricating the valve – kind of 
like the grease cup most of us have on our rudder shaft housing.

 

The valve, as you have probably figured out already, is a tapered plug that 
looks like a big metal cork with a hole drilled across the centerline. There is 
a retaining shaft on the back with a nut that holds the tapered plug into the 
tapered body of the through hull. 

 

If you loosen the retaining nut on the back by 1 to 2 turns. Don’t remove it, 
just loosen it a bit. After your penetrating oil has had a chance to soak in a 
bit, tap on the retaining nut with a brass or wooden mallet. Neither the nut or 
the threaded shaft on the plug should be damaged. A sound tap or two will move 
the plug “out” a fraction of an inch and break the bond of the internal 
corrosion.

 

When you disassemble the valve to clean up the corrosion, be sure you don’t 
damage the outer surface of the plug or the inner surface of the valve. A 
smmoth tight fit ( and a liberal amount of grease) is essentially what keeps 
water from leaking around the plug.

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2018 10:43 AM
To: CnClist 
Cc: Dennis C. 
Subject: Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

 

With the boat out of the water, you have more options.  If you poured a liquid 
penetrating oil down the scupper, it may coat the plug but chances are most of 
it will pass through onto the ground.  If you could figure a way to plug the 
seacock from underneath so the oil would be stopped at the top of the plug when 
you pour from the top it may then seep around the plug.  Maybe some Play-Doh?

 

Dennis C.

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:14 AM, Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I removed the "drain" plugs on both sides of the seacocks (4 in total), sprayed 
inside through those, then I sprayed the seams. I should have loosened that 
tension bolt on the end. The thought didn't even cross my mind, but now it 
makes complete sense. I can try spraying from undneath/outside the boat which 
would have the same effect as spraying from the removed hose?

 

Dan

 

 

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 10:02 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

How did you administer the penetrating oil?  Did you just spray it on the 
outside or did you put any down the scupper or remove the hose and put it in 
the top?

 

Dennis C.

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Dan via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Ok, I will give it another go with these tips. The good news is I haven't 
damaged anything so far and the penetrating oil is still probabbly getting in 
there and doing it's thing...

 

The space around these seacocks is very limited so removing them would be a 
real bi*ch compared to servicing them so I'm really hoping to free them. They 
do look like really expensive and high quality seacocks and are well adhered to 
the hull.

 

Thanks guys, will update with progress!

 

Dan

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 8:44 AM, Kevin Paxton via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

forgot to mention that I followed this write up once I got it loose.

https://marinehowto.com/servicing-tapered-cone-seacocks/

 

On Thu, May 24, 2018 at 7:39 AM John Christopher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hi Dan,

 

I believe I have the same ones. I did the same as you with no progress. I then 
got a hollow metal tube at the Home Depot to use as leverage over the handles, 
and seemingly without much effort (leverage working at its best$ I was able to 
work them open and closed.

/J


On May 24, 2018, at 12:42 AM, Dan mailto:dgcorm...@gmail.com> > wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit drain 
hoses.

 

photos on google drive:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

 

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open 
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get them 
to budge.

 

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement or 
should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the 
cockpit drains?

Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

 

What should I do?

 

Dan

Breakaweigh

C&C44

Halifax, NS

 

 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray



 


__

Re: Stus-List cockpit drain seacocks

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Have you checked for growth in the valve body/travel path of the valve
ball?  Imagine if an oyster or big mussel grew up in there.  You could use
a dowel from the outside to check it clear or ram it out if needed.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On May 24, 2018 12:43 AM, "Dan via CnC-List"  wrote:

I'm on the hard. I have these two giant bronze seacocks for my cockpit
drain hoses.

photos on google drive:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12TWUN1oiyiACR0IvaBKlEo2HqdzPMmqY

I have no clue how old they are but they are totally seized in the open
position. I've tried WD-40, a heat gun and a rubber mallet but can't get
them to budge.

My question is should I rip these out and put in some sort of replacement
or should I just leave them. When will I ever want to close seacocks to the
cockpit drains?
Clearly the previous owner was not in the habit of closing these.

What should I do?

Dan
Breakaweigh
C&C44
Halifax, NS


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray