Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[robert via CnC-List]

Tom:

My system is pretty simple, however, I use approx. +3 gallons of 
plumbers antifreeze.I find it on sale for about $5 gal..I always 
buy 4 gals. and use most of it.


I empty the tank by turning on a tap in the galley and maybe one in the 
head.  I then climb into the port lazarette to access the hot water tank 
and open the bottom drain to empty the tank which flows into the 
bilge.fresh water tank and hot water tank should now be empty.  Then 
empty the bilge of any water.


I then pour approx 2 gallons of plumbers antifreeze (PA) into the water 
tank and first turn on the cold water tap(s) in the galley and 
headone at a time until the PA flows from the tapI then repeat 
with the hot water taps until I see PA flowing from the tap.


Pour PA into the bilge, activate the electric pump until you see PA 
exiting the hull.Next I go into the cockpit and pump the manual pump 
until I see PA exiting the thru hull.


There is a shower pump in the head so I pour some PA into the sump, turn 
on the pump until I see PA exiting the outlet.


I use regular concentrated antifreeze in my engine and what it does not 
need, I pour it into the head with the remaining PA and pump the head 
until there is antifreeze exiting the thru hull.


Because of the angle my boat sits on its cradle and the side of the 
fresh water tank where the water exits, there is approx. 1 quart of PA 
in the far end of the tank which will sit all winter if I don't remove 
it, which I do with a small hand pump.


My boat came from Racine, Wisconsin and this is how the original owner 
winterized the fresh water system so I did the same.  Been doing this 
for 12 winters now with no issues and do not have to disassemble any of 
the plumbing system.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-10-09 3:58 PM, Tom Lynch via CnC-List wrote:

What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?

My system:

40 gallon tank estimated
Water heater
Pressurized water pump
2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump
1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump.

My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to 
warmer climate for the winter.


Tom Lynch
S/V IndoIrish
C&C 33 MKII
Bayfield WI - Lake Superior


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Tony Wroblewski via CnC-List]

Jim, my appt is at 9:40 so noon is OK.

From: CnC-List  on behalf of robert via CnC-List 

Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2017 9:07:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

Tom:

My system is pretty simple, however, I use approx. +3 gallons of plumbers 
antifreeze.I find it on sale for about $5 gal..I always buy 4 gals. and 
use most of it.

I empty the tank by turning on a tap in the galley and maybe one in the head.  
I then climb into the port lazarette to access the hot water tank and open the 
bottom drain to empty the tank which flows into the bilge.fresh water tank 
and hot water tank should now be empty.  Then empty the bilge of any water.

I then pour approx 2 gallons of plumbers antifreeze (PA) into the water tank 
and first turn on the cold water tap(s) in the galley and headone at a time 
until the PA flows from the tapI then repeat with the hot water taps until 
I see PA flowing from the tap.

Pour PA into the bilge, activate the electric pump until you see PA exiting the 
hull.Next I go into the cockpit and pump the manual pump until I see PA 
exiting the thru hull.

There is a shower pump in the head so I pour some PA into the sump, turn on the 
pump until I see PA exiting the outlet.

I use regular concentrated antifreeze in my engine and what it does not need, I 
pour it into the head with the remaining PA and pump the head until there is 
antifreeze exiting the thru hull.

Because of the angle my boat sits on its cradle and the side of the fresh water 
tank where the water exits, there is approx. 1 quart of PA in the far end of 
the tank which will sit all winter if I don't remove it, which I do with a 
small hand pump.

My boat came from Racine, Wisconsin and this is how the original owner 
winterized the fresh water system so I did the same.  Been doing this for 12 
winters now with no issues and do not have to disassemble any of the plumbing 
system.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-10-09 3:58 PM, Tom Lynch via CnC-List wrote:
What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?

My system:

40 gallon tank estimated
Water heater
Pressurized water pump
2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump
1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump.

My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to warmer 
climate for the winter.

Tom Lynch
S/V IndoIrish
C&C 33 MKII
Bayfield WI - Lake Superior



___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

That’s more or less what I do.  The only addition is that I have a water intake 
pump for the head, which I disconnect from the thru-hull and run antifreeze 
through.

From: robert via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2017 9:07 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert 
Subject: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

Tom:

My system is pretty simple, however, I use approx. +3 gallons of plumbers 
antifreeze.I find it on sale for about $5 gal..I always buy 4 gals. and 
use most of it. 

I empty the tank by turning on a tap in the galley and maybe one in the head.  
I then climb into the port lazarette to access the hot water tank and open the 
bottom drain to empty the tank which flows into the bilge.fresh water tank 
and hot water tank should now be empty.  Then empty the bilge of any water.

I then pour approx 2 gallons of plumbers antifreeze (PA) into the water tank 
and first turn on the cold water tap(s) in the galley and headone at a time 
until the PA flows from the tapI then repeat with the hot water taps until 
I see PA flowing from the tap.  

Pour PA into the bilge, activate the electric pump until you see PA exiting the 
hull.Next I go into the cockpit and pump the manual pump until I see PA 
exiting the thru hull.

There is a shower pump in the head so I pour some PA into the sump, turn on the 
pump until I see PA exiting the outlet.

I use regular concentrated antifreeze in my engine and what it does not need, I 
pour it into the head with the remaining PA and pump the head until there is 
antifreeze exiting the thru hull.

Because of the angle my boat sits on its cradle and the side of the fresh water 
tank where the water exits, there is approx. 1 quart of PA in the far end of 
the tank which will sit all winter if I don't remove it, which I do with a 
small hand pump.

My boat came from Racine, Wisconsin and this is how the original owner 
winterized the fresh water system so I did the same.  Been doing this for 12 
winters now with no issues and do not have to disassemble any of the plumbing 
system.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.  


On 2017-10-09 3:58 PM, Tom Lynch via CnC-List wrote:

  What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?  

  My system:

  40 gallon tank estimated 
  Water heater 
  Pressurized water pump
  2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump 
  1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump. 

  My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to warmer 
climate for the winter.  

  Tom Lynch
  S/V IndoIrish
  C&C 33 MKII
  Bayfield WI - Lake Superior 

   

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!





___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a
new, but related, one.

I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB.
(The "P" stands for Project Boat).

One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended partially
(I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that barnacles
prevented a full extension.

1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)

Thanks in advance.
--Bob M
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Donald Sebastian via CnC-List]

Bob,

I have been working on writing down how I ended up fixing my centerboard issue. 
  I had to get get creative and was actually able to do everything in the water.

If I don’t respond to  your questions later, shoot me an  email later in the 
week when i will have a moment to think.

Donald




> On Oct 10, 2017, at 10:46 AM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a new, 
> but related, one.
> 
> I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB. 
> (The "P" stands for Project Boat).
> 
> One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
> When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended partially 
> (I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that barnacles 
> prevented a full extension. 
> 
> 1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
> 2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
> 3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> --Bob M
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Bob, I guess they're all project boats in one form or another!  But the good 
news is that there's lots of help available: there are several 37 owners on the 
list who can be if help to you: see also Dave Godin's site, 
http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/   Dave is a frequent contributor here and can 
tell you about every square inch of a 37!


Call Fred Street for anything electronic;


send photos!
 



Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB;  Ohio River, Mile 584.4




Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: bobmor99 . 
Sent: Tue, Oct 10, 2017 10:47 am
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard



I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a new, 
but related, one.


I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB. 
(The "P" stands for Project Boat).


One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended partially 
(I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that barnacles 
prevented a full extension. 


1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)


Thanks in advance.
--Bob M


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

My 36XL/kcb is of a different vintage but I believe it was a slightly scaled 
down version of the C&C 37/40 of the late 80s/early 90s. Yours may be very 
different.
 
FWIW, the center boards of the above vintages were fiberglass filled with lead. 
On my 36, the board weighs about 1000 lbs.
 
My pin is ~ 4 inches in diameter SS--it will never need replaced although it 
may need to be removed to fully access the entire board. 

After I my pennant separated about 6 years ago (while the board was up of 
course!), the board swung on the pin and when it hit the trunk, the board
was torn apart and went to the bottom. AFAIK, the pin is accessed by removing 
the fiberglass on both its ends and 'driving' it out, which the yard had to do
to install a newly fabricated board. I consider this a big job--YMMV. The pin 
is supported by SS brackets bolted into the trunk on both sides, which are then 
glassed over
to match the centerboard foil.

If your board is weighted, be VERY CAREFUL working to free it up. If it is 
weighted, with or without a pennant, and it lets go suddenly, no part of a human
body will stop it. Even if the pennant is attached, the shock loading on it or 
the fittings of the board when it falls down to its normal sailing position, 
could
cause damage to the boat and potentially destroy the board or at least pull the 
fittings out.

I keep my clean mostly by using it (dropping the board down for upwind racing) 
and trying to have it down when the bottom is cleaned in the water before a 
race,
which is approximately monthly.

The cb boats of the above vintages (probably other manufacturers as well) 
require that the board be at least partially inside the trunk even when in the 
fully down position,
which is determined by the pennant stop on the C&Cs, usually on the cabin top.

If the pennant fails, the board will extend outside the trunk without any 
athwartship support and MUST NOT be sailed under these conditions since the 
board and pin may
be wrenched out of the boat. This would turn a bad day into a REALLY BAD day.

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb 






 
cenel...@aol.com

 
 
-Original Message-
From: bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: bobmor99 . 
Sent: Tue, Oct 10, 2017 10:47 am
Subject: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard



I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a new, 
but related, one.


I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB. 
(The "P" stands for Project Boat).


One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended partially 
(I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that barnacles 
prevented a full extension. 


1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)


Thanks in advance.
--Bob M


___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing

[Tom Lynch via CnC-List]

Thank you to all responded to my inquiry on winterizing the fresh water
system.Great info as always.

On Tue, Oct 10, 2017 at 8:53 AM Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> That’s more or less what I do.  The only addition is that I have a water
> intake pump for the head, which I disconnect from the thru-hull and run
> antifreeze through.
>
> *From:* robert via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 10, 2017 9:07 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* robert 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Fresh water plumbing winterizing
> Tom:
>
> My system is pretty simple, however, I use approx. +3 gallons of plumbers
> antifreeze.I find it on sale for about $5 gal..I always buy 4 gals.
> and use most of it.
>
> I empty the tank by turning on a tap in the galley and maybe one in the
> head.  I then climb into the port lazarette to access the hot water tank
> and open the bottom drain to empty the tank which flows into the
> bilge.fresh water tank and hot water tank should now be empty.  Then
> empty the bilge of any water.
>
> I then pour approx 2 gallons of plumbers antifreeze (PA) into the water
> tank and first turn on the cold water tap(s) in the galley and headone
> at a time until the PA flows from the tapI then repeat with the hot
> water taps until I see PA flowing from the tap.
>
> Pour PA into the bilge, activate the electric pump until you see PA
> exiting the hull.Next I go into the cockpit and pump the manual pump
> until I see PA exiting the thru hull.
>
> There is a shower pump in the head so I pour some PA into the sump, turn
> on the pump until I see PA exiting the outlet.
>
> I use regular concentrated antifreeze in my engine and what it does not
> need, I pour it into the head with the remaining PA and pump the head until
> there is antifreeze exiting the thru hull.
>
> Because of the angle my boat sits on its cradle and the side of the fresh
> water tank where the water exits, there is approx. 1 quart of PA in the far
> end of the tank which will sit all winter if I don't remove it, which I do
> with a small hand pump.
>
> My boat came from Racine, Wisconsin and this is how the original owner
> winterized the fresh water system so I did the same.  Been doing this for
> 12 winters now with no issues and do not have to disassemble any of the
> plumbing system.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-10-09 3:58 PM, Tom Lynch via CnC-List wrote:
>
> What's the best practice for Winterizing the fresh water system?
>
> My system:
>
> 40 gallon tank estimated
> Water heater
> Pressurized water pump
> 2 fixtures hot / cold from the pump
> 1 fixture in the galley from a foot pump.
>
> My boat is on Lake Superior northern WI.  And no I cannot sail it to
> warmer climate for the winter.
>
> Tom Lynch
> S/V IndoIrish
> C&C 33 MKII
> Bayfield WI - Lake Superior
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

If this helps at all, this is a link to a sketch of the Centreboard
installation for the C&C 37/40+ CB:
https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/2017/08/construction-drawings.html

Someone else on the list provided this to us all some time ago.

Ken H.

On 10 October 2017 at 13:34, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> My 36XL/kcb is of a different vintage but I believe it was a slightly
> scaled down version of the C&C 37/40 of the late 80s/early 90s. Yours may
> be very different.
>
> FWIW, the center boards of the above vintages were fiberglass filled with
> lead. On my 36, the board weighs about 1000 lbs.
>
> My pin is ~ 4 inches in diameter SS--it will never need replaced although
> it may need to be removed to fully access the entire board.
>
> After I my pennant separated about 6 years ago (while the board was up of
> course!), the board swung on the pin and when it hit the trunk, the board
> was torn apart and went to the bottom. AFAIK, the pin is accessed by
> removing the fiberglass on both its ends and 'driving' it out, which the
> yard had to do
> to install a newly fabricated board. I consider this a big job--YMMV. The
> pin is supported by SS brackets bolted into the trunk on both sides, which
> are then glassed over
> to match the centerboard foil.
>
> If your board is weighted, be VERY CAREFUL working to free it up. If it is
> weighted, with or without a pennant, and it lets go suddenly, no part of a
> human
> body will stop it. Even if the pennant is attached, the shock loading
> on it or the fittings of the board when it falls down to its normal sailing
> position, could
> cause damage to the boat and potentially destroy the board or at least
> pull the fittings out.
>
> I keep my clean mostly by using it (dropping the board down for upwind
> racing) and trying to have it down when the bottom is cleaned in the water
> before a race,
> which is approximately monthly.
>
> The cb boats of the above vintages (probably other manufacturers as well)
> require that the board be at least partially inside the trunk even when in
> the fully down position,
> which is determined by the pennant stop on the C&Cs, usually on the cabin
> top.
>
> If the pennant fails, the board will extend outside the trunk without any
> athwartship support and MUST NOT be sailed under these conditions since the
> board and pin may
> be wrenched out of the boat. This would turn a bad day into a REALLY BAD
> day.
>
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
> To: cnc-list 
> Cc: bobmor99 . 
> Sent: Tue, Oct 10, 2017 10:47 am
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard
>
> I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a
> new, but related, one.
>
> I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB.
> (The "P" stands for Project Boat).
>
> One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
> When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended
> partially (I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that
> barnacles prevented a full extension.
>
> 1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
> 2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
> 3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)
>
> Thanks in advance.
> --Bob M
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.
> October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small
> contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send
> contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Sorry, you have to scroll down a bit on that page but it is there.

Here is another link to the same drawing:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7X4Y5iVFYAKR0lrdU9WUHREVGs/view

Ken H.

On 10 October 2017 at 16:28, Ken Heaton  wrote:

> If this helps at all, this is a link to a sketch of the Centreboard
> installation for the C&C 37/40+ CB: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/2017/08/
> construction-drawings.html
>
> Someone else on the list provided this to us all some time ago.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 10 October 2017 at 13:34, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My 36XL/kcb is of a different vintage but I believe it was a slightly
>> scaled down version of the C&C 37/40 of the late 80s/early 90s. Yours may
>> be very different.
>>
>> FWIW, the center boards of the above vintages were fiberglass filled with
>> lead. On my 36, the board weighs about 1000 lbs.
>>
>> My pin is ~ 4 inches in diameter SS--it will never need replaced although
>> it may need to be removed to fully access the entire board.
>>
>> After I my pennant separated about 6 years ago (while the board was up of
>> course!), the board swung on the pin and when it hit the trunk, the board
>> was torn apart and went to the bottom. AFAIK, the pin is accessed by
>> removing the fiberglass on both its ends and 'driving' it out, which the
>> yard had to do
>> to install a newly fabricated board. I consider this a big job--YMMV. The
>> pin is supported by SS brackets bolted into the trunk on both sides, which
>> are then glassed over
>> to match the centerboard foil.
>>
>> If your board is weighted, be VERY CAREFUL working to free it up. If it
>> is weighted, with or without a pennant, and it lets go suddenly, no part of
>> a human
>> body will stop it. Even if the pennant is attached, the shock loading
>> on it or the fittings of the board when it falls down to its normal sailing
>> position, could
>> cause damage to the boat and potentially destroy the board or at least
>> pull the fittings out.
>>
>> I keep my clean mostly by using it (dropping the board down for upwind
>> racing) and trying to have it down when the bottom is cleaned in the water
>> before a race,
>> which is approximately monthly.
>>
>> The cb boats of the above vintages (probably other manufacturers as well)
>> require that the board be at least partially inside the trunk even when in
>> the fully down position,
>> which is determined by the pennant stop on the C&Cs, usually on the cabin
>> top.
>>
>> If the pennant fails, the board will extend outside the trunk without any
>> athwartship support and MUST NOT be sailed under these conditions since the
>> board and pin may
>> be wrenched out of the boat. This would turn a bad day into a REALLY BAD
>> day.
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: bobmor99 . 
>> Sent: Tue, Oct 10, 2017 10:47 am
>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard
>>
>> I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a
>> new, but related, one.
>>
>> I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB.
>> (The "P" stands for Project Boat).
>>
>> One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
>> When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended
>> partially (I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that
>> barnacles prevented a full extension.
>>
>> 1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
>> 2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
>> 3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>> --Bob M
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send
>> contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

I know my number of posts have decreased lately, but I didn’t think I’d ever be 
relegated to “someone else”… sigh…. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 



> On Oct 10, 2017, at 3:28 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If this helps at all, this is a link to a sketch of the Centreboard 
> installation for the C&C 37/40+ CB: 
> https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/2017/08/construction-drawings.html 
> 
> 
> Someone else on the list provided this to us all some time ago.
> 
> Ken H.
> 
> On 10 October 2017 at 13:34, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> My 36XL/kcb is of a different vintage but I believe it was a slightly scaled 
> down version of the C&C 37/40 of the late 80s/early 90s. Yours may be very 
> different.
>  
> FWIW, the center boards of the above vintages were fiberglass filled with 
> lead. On my 36, the board weighs about 1000 lbs.
>  
> My pin is ~ 4 inches in diameter SS--it will never need replaced although it 
> may need to be removed to fully access the entire board.
>  
> After I my pennant separated about 6 years ago (while the board was up of 
> course!), the board swung on the pin and when it hit the trunk, the board
> was torn apart and went to the bottom. AFAIK, the pin is accessed by removing 
> the fiberglass on both its ends and 'driving' it out, which the yard had to do
> to install a newly fabricated board. I consider this a big job--YMMV. The pin 
> is supported by SS brackets bolted into the trunk on both sides, which are 
> then glassed over
> to match the centerboard foil.
>  
> If your board is weighted, be VERY CAREFUL working to free it up. If it is 
> weighted, with or without a pennant, and it lets go suddenly, no part of a 
> human
> body will stop it. Even if the pennant is attached, the shock loading on it 
> or the fittings of the board when it falls down to its normal sailing 
> position, could
> cause damage to the boat and potentially destroy the board or at least pull 
> the fittings out.
>  
> I keep my clean mostly by using it (dropping the board down for upwind 
> racing) and trying to have it down when the bottom is cleaned in the water 
> before a race,
> which is approximately monthly.
>  
> The cb boats of the above vintages (probably other manufacturers as well) 
> require that the board be at least partially inside the trunk even when in 
> the fully down position,
> which is determined by the pennant stop on the C&Cs, usually on the cabin top.
>  
> If the pennant fails, the board will extend outside the trunk without any 
> athwartship support and MUST NOT be sailed under these conditions since the 
> board and pin may
> be wrenched out of the boat. This would turn a bad day into a REALLY BAD day.
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> Water Phantom
> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
>  
> cenel...@aol.com 
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: bobmor99 . via CnC-List  >
> To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Cc: bobmor99 . mailto:bobmo...@gmail.com>>
> Sent: Tue, Oct 10, 2017 10:47 am
> Subject: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard
> 
> I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a new, 
> but related, one.
> 
> I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB. 
> (The "P" stands for Project Boat).
> 
> One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
> When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended partially 
> (I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that barnacles 
> prevented a full extension. 
> 
> 1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
> 2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
> 3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> --Bob M
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again. 
> October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please cons

Stus-List Winterizing

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Here's a link to BoatUS Boaters' Guide to Winterizing:

https://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/winter/winterizing.pdf?utm_source=membership&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=coop-eline-1017

-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Hi Bob

Here are a few pictures of my board.  Approx weight is 300 - 400 lbs.

https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0B1YsbvO03cClZkhpejlvbFNIUTQ

Any questions give me a shout.

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Oct 10, 2017, at 10:46 AM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a new, 
> but related, one.
> 
> I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB. 
> (The "P" stands for Project Boat).
> 
> One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
> When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended partially 
> (I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that barnacles 
> prevented a full extension. 
> 
> 1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
> 2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
> 3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> --Bob M
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Sorry Edd, I thought it may have been you who posted sketch that but I
wasn't positive.  Don't worry, we still hold you in high esteem, and you
are still our favourite Trekkie.

;-)

Ken H.

On 10 October 2017 at 16:35, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I know my number of posts have decreased lately, but I didn’t think I’d
> ever be relegated to “someone else”… sigh….
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
> On Oct 10, 2017, at 3:28 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> If this helps at all, this is a link to a sketch of the Centreboard
> installation for the C&C 37/40+ CB: https://c-c-37-40.blogspot.ca/2017/08/
> construction-drawings.html
>
> Someone else on the list provided this to us all some time ago.
>
> Ken H.
>
> On 10 October 2017 at 13:34, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> My 36XL/kcb is of a different vintage but I believe it was a slightly
>> scaled down version of the C&C 37/40 of the late 80s/early 90s. Yours may
>> be very different.
>>
>> FWIW, the center boards of the above vintages were fiberglass filled with
>> lead. On my 36, the board weighs about 1000 lbs.
>>
>> My pin is ~ 4 inches in diameter SS--it will never need replaced although
>> it may need to be removed to fully access the entire board.
>>
>> After I my pennant separated about 6 years ago (while the board was up of
>> course!), the board swung on the pin and when it hit the trunk, the board
>> was torn apart and went to the bottom. AFAIK, the pin is accessed by
>> removing the fiberglass on both its ends and 'driving' it out, which the
>> yard had to do
>> to install a newly fabricated board. I consider this a big job--YMMV. The
>> pin is supported by SS brackets bolted into the trunk on both sides, which
>> are then glassed over
>> to match the centerboard foil.
>>
>> If your board is weighted, be VERY CAREFUL working to free it up. If it
>> is weighted, with or without a pennant, and it lets go suddenly, no part of
>> a human
>> body will stop it. Even if the pennant is attached, the shock loading
>> on it or the fittings of the board when it falls down to its normal sailing
>> position, could
>> cause damage to the boat and potentially destroy the board or at least
>> pull the fittings out.
>>
>> I keep my clean mostly by using it (dropping the board down for upwind
>> racing) and trying to have it down when the bottom is cleaned in the water
>> before a race,
>> which is approximately monthly.
>>
>> The cb boats of the above vintages (probably other manufacturers as well)
>> require that the board be at least partially inside the trunk even when in
>> the fully down position,
>> which is determined by the pennant stop on the C&Cs, usually on the cabin
>> top.
>>
>> If the pennant fails, the board will extend outside the trunk without any
>> athwartship support and MUST NOT be sailed under these conditions since the
>> board and pin may
>> be wrenched out of the boat. This would turn a bad day into a REALLY BAD
>> day.
>>
>> Charlie Nelson
>> Water Phantom
>> 1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> cenel...@aol.com
>>
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: bobmor99 . via CnC-List 
>> To: cnc-list 
>> Cc: bobmor99 . 
>> Sent: Tue, Oct 10, 2017 10:47 am
>> Subject: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard
>>
>> I've read Donald Sebastian's earlier thread and hope it's OK to start a
>> new, but related, one.
>>
>> I'm looking at a 1983 C&C 37-P K/CB.
>> (The "P" stands for Project Boat).
>>
>> One of the issues is that the centerboard pennant is likely unattached.
>> When the boat was hauled ~5 months ago, the centerboard descended
>> partially (I'm told). This makes me think the pin is in place and that
>> barnacles prevented a full extension.
>>
>> 1) Is the centerboard fiberglass? Is it heavy?
>> 2) If pin replacement is needed is that a big job?
>> 3) How are the centerboard and trunk kept clean? Floss?  :-)
>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>> --Bob M
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again. October will be our fund raising month. Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running. Use PayPal to send
>> contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for t

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Um…. I think Ken may have meant “Trekker”…   :^)

From Wikipedia:

> There is considerable disagreement among Star Trek fans over whether to use 
> the term Trekkie or Trekker. Some say that Trekkie is "frequently 
> depreciative", thus, "not an acceptable term to serious fans", who prefer 
> Trekker.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

> On Oct 10, 2017, at 5:01 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Don't worry, we still hold you in high esteem, and you are still our 
> favourite Trekkie.

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

As long as he lives long and prospers, I think he’s ok with it..
Chuck G.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 10, 2017, at 7:06 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Um…. I think Ken may have meant “Trekker”…   :^)
> 
> From Wikipedia:
> 
>> There is considerable disagreement among Star Trek fans over whether to use 
>> the term Trekkie or Trekker. Some say that Trekkie is "frequently 
>> depreciative", thus, "not an acceptable term to serious fans", who prefer 
>> Trekker.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Oct 10, 2017, at 5:01 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Don't worry, we still hold you in high esteem, and you are still our 
>> favourite Trekkie.
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

Thank you all (y'all) for all the info and advice.
--Bob M

On Tue, Oct 10, 2017 at 7:33 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As long as he lives long and prospers, I think he’s ok with it..
> Chuck G.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 10, 2017, at 7:06 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Um…. I *think* Ken may have meant “Trekker”…   :^)
>
> From Wikipedia:
>
> There is considerable disagreement among Star Trek fans over whether to
> use the term Trekkie or Trekker. Some say that Trekkie is
> "frequently depreciative", thus, "not an acceptable term to serious fans",
> who prefer Trekker.
>
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Oct 10, 2017, at 5:01 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Don't worry, we still hold you in high esteem, and you are still our
> favourite Trekkie.
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

As I understand it, fans of the original series (Kirk, Spock) called themselves 
Trekkies throughout the 60’s, 70’s and most of the 80’s. When The Next 
Generation (Picard, Riker) gained steam, those fans called themselves Trekkies 
as well, much to the dismay of the original series fans, who consider the more 
“pure”. 

So, the fans of the original show, the more pure version of Trek, started 
calling themselves Trekkers to distinguish themselves from the others. 

Forgive me for going off topic. Hauling the boat for the winter tomorrow and 
need to deal with the depression. 

Edd M Schillay (Trekker)
C&C 37+ | Starship Enterprise 
NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY


On Oct 10, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:

As long as he lives long and prospers, I think he’s ok with it..
Chuck G.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 10, 2017, at 7:06 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Um…. I think Ken may have meant “Trekker”…   :^)
> 
> From Wikipedia:
> 
>> There is considerable disagreement among Star Trek fans over whether to use 
>> the term Trekkie or Trekker. Some say that Trekkie is "frequently 
>> depreciative", thus, "not an acceptable term to serious fans", who prefer 
>> Trekker.
> 
> — Fred
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
> 
>> On Oct 10, 2017, at 5:01 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Don't worry, we still hold you in high esteem, and you are still our 
>> favourite Trekkie.
> 
> ___
> 
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 37 Centerboard

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Well I just learned something new...

Ken H.

On 10 October 2017 at 21:47, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> As I understand it, fans of the original series (Kirk, Spock) called
> themselves Trekkies throughout the 60’s, 70’s and most of the 80’s. When
> The Next Generation (Picard, Riker) gained steam, those fans called
> themselves Trekkies as well, much to the dismay of the original series
> fans, who consider the more “pure”.
>
> So, the fans of the original show, the more pure version of Trek, started
> calling themselves Trekkers to distinguish themselves from the others.
>
> Forgive me for going off topic. Hauling the boat for the winter tomorrow
> and need to deal with the depression.
>
> Edd M Schillay (Trekker)
> C&C 37+ | Starship Enterprise
> NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
>
>
> On Oct 10, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> As long as he lives long and prospers, I think he’s ok with it..
> Chuck G.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Oct 10, 2017, at 7:06 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Um…. I *think* Ken may have meant “Trekker”…   :^)
>
> From Wikipedia:
>
> There is considerable disagreement among Star Trek fans over whether to
> use the term Trekkie or Trekker. Some say that Trekkie is
> "frequently depreciative", thus, "not an acceptable term to serious fans",
> who prefer Trekker.
>
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI
>
> On Oct 10, 2017, at 5:01 PM, Ken Heaton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Don't worry, we still hold you in high esteem, and you are still our
> favourite Trekkie.
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Pete,

 

I replaced my fluorescents with LEDs also.  I picked some up cheap from eBay 
and they have worked well for 4-5 years.  They don’t get a lot of use, but 
certainly shine bright when needed.  I removed the entire fixture and attached 
the LED strips to a piece of pine.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA



 

 

Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2017 15:35:41 +
From: kelly petew mailto:kellype...@msn.com> >
To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
Subject: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements
Message-ID:
   
mailto:blupr11mb0498135732562c4b40cdd5a6c1...@blupr11mb0498.namprd11.prod.outlook.com>
 >
   
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original fluorescents 
with LEDs?

Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the existing 
fixture??


Thanks!!


Pete W.


Siren Song

'91 C&C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.
-

 

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The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
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Re: Stus-List LED Interior Flourescent replacements

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The marine beam option is what I went with.  The boat came with more than a
dozen tube fixtures (most of which were double tubes) and at ~$30 a tube it
wasn't cheap.  For the most part they are plug and play though the
directions do suggest bypassing the ballast/starter circuit.  I didn't
bypass and haven't had any trouble.  I will strongly suggest the warm white
varient and advise that the light still has a bit of the LED harshness, not
the inviting glow of an incandescent.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Oct 8, 2017 10:36 AM, "kelly petew via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Anyone have any experiences to share with replacing your original
fluorescents with LEDs?

Is it simply 'plug & play', i.e., old tube out, new LED tube into the
existing fixture??


Thanks!!


Pete W.


Siren Song

'91 C&C 30-2

Deltaville, Va.

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!