Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I had a suspicion of a power leak in my DC system so did some diagnostics 
yesterday.  I have a solar panel running when not on the boat, so it has not 
been a high priority to solve (the batteries are always fully charged when I 
get to the boat), but I wanted to determine if it was real.  I took all the 
negative leads off the batteries and then put my ammeter between the negative 
lead and the negative post of the house battery. I have a Blue Seas “add a 
battery” rotary switch which isolates the start battery from the house battery. 
 I normally leave this switch on so that the emergency bilge pump switch and 
LED courtesy lights will operate.  Those are the only things I know of that 
still work when the panel switches are all off.  I measured a 100 mA with the 
rotary switch on and all panel switches off.  I measured 0 mA with the switch 
off. I thought it might be the automatic bilge pump, but that is a mechanical 
float switch and disconnecting it had no effect.  So either I am getting 
current through the panel with all circuit breakers off or this somehow relates 
to the battery isolation in the Blue Seas ACR system.  Any thoughts from the 
geniuses on this list as to where to go next diagnosing this?  Also, is 100 mA 
a significant drain?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

David,

The ACR does have a .1A draw, so that's to be expected. I too have a small 
drain whenever the battery switch is set to On.  I'd love to trace the cause 
one day, but my solar panel puts so much in, that I tend not to worry about it. 

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com
---
Sent from my iPad Air
iPad. iTypos. iApologize



> On Aug 17, 2017, at 9:32 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I had a suspicion of a power leak in my DC system so did some diagnostics 
> yesterday.  I have a solar panel running when not on the boat, so it has not 
> been a high priority to solve (the batteries are always fully charged when I 
> get to the boat), but I wanted to determine if it was real.  I took all the 
> negative leads off the batteries and then put my ammeter between the negative 
> lead and the negative post of the house battery. I have a Blue Seas “add a 
> battery” rotary switch which isolates the start battery from the house 
> battery.  I normally leave this switch on so that the emergency bilge pump 
> switch and LED courtesy lights will operate.  Those are the only things I 
> know of that still work when the panel switches are all off.  I measured a 
> 100 mA with the rotary switch on and all panel switches off.  I measured 0 mA 
> with the switch off. I thought it might be the automatic bilge pump, but that 
> is a mechanical float switch and disconnecting it had no effect.  So either I 
> am getting current through the panel with all circuit breakers off or this 
> somehow relates to the battery isolation in the Blue Seas ACR system.  Any 
> thoughts from the geniuses on this list as to where to go next diagnosing 
> this?  Also, is 100 mA a significant drain?  Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

First, move the positive supply to the bilge pump to one of the input posts
on the back of your battery switch.  Nothing to do with your issue, just a
good practice.

Second, do you have a stereo?  Could it be the memory pre-set retention
supply?  Yellow wire from stereo to battery.

100 milliamps isn't a lot of draw.  Try it on a car or truck, you'll get
about the same for the stereo and security functions.  It's called
"parasitic current draw".

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 8:32 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a suspicion of a power leak in my DC system so did some diagnostics
> yesterday.  I have a solar panel running when not on the boat, so it has
> not been a high priority to solve (the batteries are always fully charged
> when I get to the boat), but I wanted to determine if it was real.  I took
> all the negative leads off the batteries and then put my ammeter between
> the negative lead and the negative post of the house battery. I have a Blue
> Seas “add a battery” rotary switch which isolates the start battery from
> the house battery.  I normally leave this switch on so that the emergency
> bilge pump switch and LED courtesy lights will operate.  Those are the only
> things I know of that still work when the panel switches are all off.  I
> measured a 100 mA with the rotary switch on and all panel switches off.  I
> measured 0 mA with the switch off. I thought it might be the automatic
> bilge pump, but that is a mechanical float switch and disconnecting it had
> no effect.  So either I am getting current through the panel with all
> circuit breakers off or this somehow relates to the battery isolation in
> the Blue Seas ACR system.  Any thoughts from the geniuses on this list as
> to where to go next diagnosing this?  Also, is 100 mA a significant drain?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Overheating mystery

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Steaming exhaust is more or less visible based on lighting, atmospheric
temperature and humidity, and raw water inlet temperature.  There is no
particular guide as to when you may see it.  While most engines have
thermostats which control fresh water temperature, some engines also have
thermostats which modulate the temperature of the raw water.  Typically
this applies to raw water cooled engines.  As such you may not see water
discharge until the engine is up to temperature.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Aug 16, 2017 11:36 PM, "Rick Rohwer via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> I sucked a sardine into the raw water intake in Powell River.  I idled
> back to P R worked from the pump backwards, and there he was with a steely
> gaze halfway up the through hull.  If he would have extracted himself first
> I would still be looking for answers!
> It does bring up a question that has been bugging me: if someone's exhaust
> is seriously steaming is it always an issue? and should I mention it to
> them?
> I know I would appreciate knowing, but some folks maybe not!  There are
> several commercial vessels leaving Anacortes that really have a cloud
> behind them!
>
> Rick Rohwer
> Paikea 37+
>
>
>
> > On Aug 15, 2017, at 17:43, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
> >
> > Buddy of mine had a similar issue.  Sucked a plastic bag against the
> intake.  When he turned the engine off and hoisted sails, it detached and
> floated off,  He saw it.  Re-cranked the engine and it ran fine.
> >
> > Dennis C.
> > ___
> >
> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> >
> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

It depends on how you look at it...

100 mA = 0.1 A. This means a 2.4 Ah draw for a day; almost 20 Ah for a week.

Now it depends how often you charge the batteries (with solar, you do it 
constantly, so it does not matter, but if you were to charge with your motor, 
it does) and how big is your bank (battery bank). If your battery bank is 400 
Ah. that 20 Ah drain is not much to talk about, but if you have one battery (80 
Ah?) and it is not the newest, so its capacity is lower, that 20 Ah might mean 
a difference.

I know I am splitting the hair a bit here...

Marek
1994 C270 “Legato”
Ottawa, ON

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 10:23
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

First, move the positive supply to the bilge pump to one of the input posts on 
the back of your battery switch.  Nothing to do with your issue, just a good 
practice.

Second, do you have a stereo?  Could it be the memory pre-set retention supply? 
 Yellow wire from stereo to battery.

100 milliamps isn't a lot of draw.  Try it on a car or truck, you'll get about 
the same for the stereo and security functions.  It's called "parasitic current 
draw".

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 8:32 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:
I had a suspicion of a power leak in my DC system so did some diagnostics 
yesterday.  I have a solar panel running when not on the boat, so it has not 
been a high priority to solve (the batteries are always fully charged when I 
get to the boat), but I wanted to determine if it was real.  I took all the 
negative leads off the batteries and then put my ammeter between the negative 
lead and the negative post of the house battery. I have a Blue Seas “add a 
battery” rotary switch which isolates the start battery from the house battery. 
 I normally leave this switch on so that the emergency bilge pump switch and 
LED courtesy lights will operate.  Those are the only things I know of that 
still work when the panel switches are all off.  I measured a 100 mA with the 
rotary switch on and all panel switches off.  I measured 0 mA with the switch 
off. I thought it might be the automatic bilge pump, but that is a mechanical 
float switch and disconnecting it had no effect.  So either I am getting 
current through the panel with all circuit breakers off or this somehow relates 
to the battery isolation in the Blue Seas ACR system.  Any thoughts from the 
geniuses on this list as to where to go next diagnosing this?  Also, is 100 mA 
a significant drain?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:43816FFC06534F3184011200AA5A52E6@BigLaptopETS]


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Stus-List Emission controls

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Well, I finally got tired of fixing my engine every time I went out (or so it 
seemed), not to mention dealing with all the diesely rust under and around the 
thing. So I have gone for a brand new Yanmar 3YM30AE. It goes in this 
afternoon. It's pretty and shiny gray and I think I love it. However, I notice 
on one of the labels that it qualifies with all California emissions 
requirements. What does that mean in the real world (you know, the part that 
isn't in California)? I can't help thinking that it means seriously reduced 
efficiency and power. Running around with a 20-gallon fuel tank, that is a 
serious consideration.
Can the assembled intelligence here give me some insight into what this means?
Cheers
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Stus-List Update to Dismasted Redwing 35

[schiller via CnC-List]

The saga is finished.  The insurance company wrote a check for the hull 
value and left me with the boat.  We have removed all of the items that 
we wanted to get off (Anderson Self Tailing Winches, Autopilot, Nav 
Instruments, Batteries, Electrical Panels (AC & DC), Radios, and Main 
Traveller.


I have convinced Torresen Marine to buy the boat from me for salvage.  
There are still many good parts left on it (Universal M-25XPB, Rudder & 
Steering Gear, Genoa tracks, cleats, etc.). If anybody needs anything, I 
can give you my Torresen contact's name.  They know that the list exists 
and may be a resource for salvaging parts.


On to the next adventure.

Neil Schiller
Formerly: 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Update to Dismasted Redwing 35

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

So what's on the horizon for the next boat?RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: schiller via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: schiller 
 Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 11:46 AM
 Subject: Stus-List Update to Dismasted Redwing 35
   
  The saga is finished.  The insurance company wrote a check for the hull value 
and left me with the boat.  We have removed all of the items that we wanted to 
get off (Anderson Self Tailing Winches, Autopilot, Nav Instruments, Batteries, 
Electrical Panels (AC & DC), Radios, and Main Traveller.
 
 I have convinced Torresen Marine to buy the boat from me for salvage.  There 
are still many good parts left on it (Universal M-25XPB, Rudder & Steering 
Gear, Genoa tracks, cleats, etc.).  If anybody needs anything, I can give you 
my Torresen contact's name.  They know that the list exists and may be a 
resource for salvaging parts.
 
 On to the next adventure.
 
 Neil Schiller
 Formerly: 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
 (C&C 35, Mark I)
 "Corsair"
  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Emission controls

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

When the CARB (California Air Resources Board) standards get applied to cars
and motorcycles, it means more evaporative canisters on crankcase vents and
intake systems to reduce VOC vapors into the atmosphere.  Perhaps the same
for marine diesels as well.  One could say that it would make a diesel
engine compartment less stinky with diesel fumes and it is also possible
that it is a bit cleaner at the exhaust pipe than a 49 state model.
Note that particulate standards enforced by CARB have completely eliminated
the sale of 2 stroke marine engines in California.
It is rather unlikely for Yanmar to offer two separate models of this engine
for US sales and it is also possible that due to better engine technology
and fuel delivery systems, to say nothing of the higher compression of
having a new engine, you may find yourself with improved fuel economy
compared to your aging troublesome diesel.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall (Yanmar 3HMF)
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Stus-List Emission controls

Well, I finally got tired of fixing my engine every time I went out (or so
it seemed), not to mention dealing with all the diesely rust under and
around the thing. So I have gone for a brand new Yanmar 3YM30AE. It goes in
this afternoon. It's pretty and shiny gray and I think I love it. However, I
notice on one of the labels that it qualifies with all California emissions
requirements. What does that mean in the real world (you know, the part that
isn't in California)? I can't help thinking that it means seriously reduced
efficiency and power. Running around with a 20-gallon fuel tank, that is a
serious consideration.
Can the assembled intelligence here give me some insight into what this
means?
Cheers
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Emission controls

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

As long as they didn't pull a VW with it!

On Aug 17, 2017 10:46 AM, "Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

When the CARB (California Air Resources Board) standards get applied to cars
and motorcycles, it means more evaporative canisters on crankcase vents and
intake systems to reduce VOC vapors into the atmosphere.  Perhaps the same
for marine diesels as well.  One could say that it would make a diesel
engine compartment less stinky with diesel fumes and it is also possible
that it is a bit cleaner at the exhaust pipe than a 49 state model.
Note that particulate standards enforced by CARB have completely eliminated
the sale of 2 stroke marine engines in California.
It is rather unlikely for Yanmar to offer two separate models of this engine
for US sales and it is also possible that due to better engine technology
and fuel delivery systems, to say nothing of the higher compression of
having a new engine, you may find yourself with improved fuel economy
compared to your aging troublesome diesel.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall (Yanmar 3HMF)
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Stus-List Emission controls

Well, I finally got tired of fixing my engine every time I went out (or so
it seemed), not to mention dealing with all the diesely rust under and
around the thing. So I have gone for a brand new Yanmar 3YM30AE. It goes in
this afternoon. It's pretty and shiny gray and I think I love it. However, I
notice on one of the labels that it qualifies with all California emissions
requirements. What does that mean in the real world (you know, the part that
isn't in California)? I can't help thinking that it means seriously reduced
efficiency and power. Running around with a 20-gallon fuel tank, that is a
serious consideration.
Can the assembled intelligence here give me some insight into what this
means?
Cheers
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
___

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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Emission controls

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

At the last Seattle boat show I talked to an engine vendor. He said that 
because of the emission requirements in the U.S. (California) the new engines 
have less power than their European counterparts. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Puget Sound Pegasus (for 
sale) Lf38 Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/17/17  10:45  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest  Subject: 
Re: Stus-List Emission controls 
When the CARB (California Air Resources Board) standards get applied to cars
and motorcycles, it means more evaporative canisters on crankcase vents and
intake systems to reduce VOC vapors into the atmosphere.  Perhaps the same
for marine diesels as well.  One could say that it would make a diesel
engine compartment less stinky with diesel fumes and it is also possible
that it is a bit cleaner at the exhaust pipe than a 49 state model.
Note that particulate standards enforced by CARB have completely eliminated
the sale of 2 stroke marine engines in California.
It is rather unlikely for Yanmar to offer two separate models of this engine
for US sales and it is also possible that due to better engine technology
and fuel delivery systems, to say nothing of the higher compression of
having a new engine, you may find yourself with improved fuel economy
compared to your aging troublesome diesel.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall (Yanmar 3HMF)
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 12:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton 
Subject: Stus-List Emission controls

Well, I finally got tired of fixing my engine every time I went out (or so
it seemed), not to mention dealing with all the diesely rust under and
around the thing. So I have gone for a brand new Yanmar 3YM30AE. It goes in
this afternoon. It's pretty and shiny gray and I think I love it. However, I
notice on one of the labels that it qualifies with all California emissions
requirements. What does that mean in the real world (you know, the part that
isn't in California)? I can't help thinking that it means seriously reduced
efficiency and power. Running around with a 20-gallon fuel tank, that is a
serious consideration.
Can the assembled intelligence here give me some insight into what this
means?
Cheers
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine 

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA    02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260
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Re: Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

I think it's a 15mA draw when the ACR is open, not 100mA ... at least
that's what the specs say.

On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 7:16 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> David,
>
> The ACR does have a .1A draw, so that's to be expected. I too have a small
> drain whenever the battery switch is set to On.  I'd love to trace the
> cause one day, but my solar panel puts so much in, that I tend not to worry
> about it.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
> ---
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> www.StarshipSailing.com
> ---
> Sent from my iPad Air
> iPad. iTypos. iApologize
>
>
>
> On Aug 17, 2017, at 9:32 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I had a suspicion of a power leak in my DC system so did some diagnostics
> yesterday.  I have a solar panel running when not on the boat, so it has
> not been a high priority to solve (the batteries are always fully charged
> when I get to the boat), but I wanted to determine if it was real.  I took
> all the negative leads off the batteries and then put my ammeter between
> the negative lead and the negative post of the house battery. I have a Blue
> Seas “add a battery” rotary switch which isolates the start battery from
> the house battery.  I normally leave this switch on so that the emergency
> bilge pump switch and LED courtesy lights will operate.  Those are the only
> things I know of that still work when the panel switches are all off.  I
> measured a 100 mA with the rotary switch on and all panel switches off.  I
> measured 0 mA with the switch off. I thought it might be the automatic
> bilge pump, but that is a mechanical float switch and disconnecting it had
> no effect.  So either I am getting current through the panel with all
> circuit breakers off or this somehow relates to the battery isolation in
> the Blue Seas ACR system.  Any thoughts from the geniuses on this list as
> to where to go next diagnosing this?  Also, is 100 mA a significant drain?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Update to Dismasted Redwing 35

[schiller via CnC-List]

Ron,

So far, we have looked at a 1978 C&C 38 in Muskegon, Michigan.  Nice, 
roomy boat.  We have some concerns over the Yanmar engine.  Don't know 
how many hours on it, it shows some surface corrosion on the belt guards 
that indicate that the boat has been in storage and a bit damp.  Hull 
and deck look good. Winches a little old and not self tailing (not a 
problem since we removed the Anderson Self tailers from the 35).  Lines 
are not led aft to cockpit, etc.  Little things.  Not sure of the life 
left in the sails.


Next week we are going up to Charlevoix, Michigan to look at a 1981 C&C 
32.  Good equipment list, good electronics (2015 B&G including 
chartplotter), Universal M2-20 engine.  The interior is a little worn 
but looks good from the pictures.  Few little things to repair (dry, 
non-functioning compass, broken blocks on main sheet, water heater tank 
removed).  It is priced well and if we don't feel cramped then that will 
probably be the boat.  Newer Sails and Macpack.


Will keep the list updated.

Neil Schiller

On 8/17/2017 12:58 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:

So what's on the horizon for the next boat?
Ron
Wild Cheri
C&C 30-1
STL




*From:* schiller via CnC-List 
*To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
*Cc:* schiller 
*Sent:* Thursday, August 17, 2017 11:46 AM
*Subject:* Stus-List Update to Dismasted Redwing 35

The saga is finished.  The insurance company wrote a check for the 
hull value and left me with the boat.  We have removed all of the 
items that we wanted to get off (Anderson Self Tailing Winches, 
Autopilot, Nav Instruments, Batteries, Electrical Panels (AC & DC), 
Radios, and Main Traveller.


I have convinced Torresen Marine to buy the boat from me for salvage.  
There are still many good parts left on it (Universal M-25XPB, Rudder 
& Steering Gear, Genoa tracks, cleats, etc.).  If anybody needs 
anything, I can give you my Torresen contact's name.  They know that 
the list exists and may be a resource for salvaging parts.


On to the next adventure.

Neil Schiller
Formerly: 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
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___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Stus-List stern light (bulb socket slipped out of fixture)

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Ahoy! 
I changed the bulb. Yay! However, the wire and socket and now-working bulb 
slipped out from the transom fixture and into the bilge (naturally!). 
I fished it out the bulb and wire through the quarterberth. I cannot see a way 
to get to the inside of the transom. 
Help! 
Richard Walters/v INDIGO   
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Emission controls

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

meets California standards?

Boat will constantly steer left.
Your boat budget will increase and be overspent.
Marine life, frogs, spiders and the like will seek sanctuary on your boat.
On, and on, and on..  :)

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 11:41 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Well, I finally got tired of fixing my engine every time I went out (or so
> it seemed), not to mention dealing with all the diesely rust under and
> around the thing. So I have gone for a brand new Yanmar 3YM30AE. It goes in
> this afternoon. It's pretty and shiny gray and I think I love it. However,
> I notice on one of the labels that it qualifies with all California
> emissions requirements. What does that mean in the real world (you know,
> the part that isn't in California)? I can't help thinking that it means
> seriously reduced efficiency and power. Running around with a 20-gallon
> fuel tank, that is a serious consideration.
> Can the assembled intelligence here give me some insight into what this
> means?
> Cheers
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Emission controls

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Not sure about HP. but I've been told that the common rail engines are much
quieter because the injectors do not pop.  They are electronically
controlled.

I hope the repower goes smoothly!

Joel

On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 4:11 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> meets California standards?
>
> Boat will constantly steer left.
> Your boat budget will increase and be overspent.
> Marine life, frogs, spiders and the like will seek sanctuary on your boat.
> On, and on, and on..  :)
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 11:41 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Well, I finally got tired of fixing my engine every time I went out (or
>> so it seemed), not to mention dealing with all the diesely rust under and
>> around the thing. So I have gone for a brand new Yanmar 3YM30AE. It goes in
>> this afternoon. It's pretty and shiny gray and I think I love it. However,
>> I notice on one of the labels that it qualifies with all California
>> emissions requirements. What does that mean in the real world (you know,
>> the part that isn't in California)? I can't help thinking that it means
>> seriously reduced efficiency and power. Running around with a 20-gallon
>> fuel tank, that is a serious consideration.
>> Can the assembled intelligence here give me some insight into what this
>> means?
>> Cheers
>> Andy
>> C&C 40
>> Peregrine
>>
>> Andrew Burton
>> 61 W Narragansett
>> Newport, RI
>> USA02840
>>
>> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>> +401 965-5260
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Emission controls-Diesels

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Running biodiesel will further quiet the engine.  Is it even available at fuel 
docks?  Your exhaust will smell like french fries.

Bill Dakin


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Re: Stus-List Update to Dismasted Redwing 35

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

Make sure you are able to sit on the head. It is tight on a friend's C&C 32.

Ed Levert
C&C 34 Briar Patch
New Orleans, La

On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 2:34 PM, schiller via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Ron,
>
> So far, we have looked at a 1978 C&C 38 in Muskegon, Michigan.  Nice,
> roomy boat.  We have some concerns over the Yanmar engine.  Don't know how
> many hours on it, it shows some surface corrosion on the belt guards that
> indicate that the boat has been in storage and a bit damp.  Hull and deck
> look good.  Winches a little old and not self tailing (not a problem since
> we removed the Anderson Self tailers from the 35).  Lines are not led aft
> to cockpit, etc.  Little things.  Not sure of the life left in the sails.
>
> Next week we are going up to Charlevoix, Michigan to look at a 1981 C&C
> 32.  Good equipment list, good electronics (2015 B&G including
> chartplotter), Universal M2-20 engine.  The interior is a little worn but
> looks good from the pictures.  Few little things to repair (dry,
> non-functioning compass, broken blocks on main sheet, water heater tank
> removed).  It is priced well and if we don't feel cramped then that will
> probably be the boat.  Newer Sails and Macpack.
>
> Will keep the list updated.
>
> Neil Schiller
>
> On 8/17/2017 12:58 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List wrote:
>
> So what's on the horizon for the next boat?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* schiller via CnC-List 
> 
> *To:* "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>  
> *Cc:* schiller 
> 
> *Sent:* Thursday, August 17, 2017 11:46 AM
> *Subject:* Stus-List Update to Dismasted Redwing 35
>
> The saga is finished.  The insurance company wrote a check for the hull
> value and left me with the boat.  We have removed all of the items that we
> wanted to get off (Anderson Self Tailing Winches, Autopilot, Nav
> Instruments, Batteries, Electrical Panels (AC & DC), Radios, and Main
> Traveller.
>
> I have convinced Torresen Marine to buy the boat from me for salvage.
> There are still many good parts left on it (Universal M-25XPB, Rudder &
> Steering Gear, Genoa tracks, cleats, etc.).  If anybody needs anything, I
> can give you my Torresen contact's name.  They know that the list exists
> and may be a resource for salvaging parts.
>
> On to the next adventure.
>
> Neil Schiller
> Formerly: 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List C&C NW Rendezvous. Telegraph Harbor, BC

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

http://youtu.be/hTBU6_HwvFA


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery/Wiring Problem?

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi David,
 A 100 ma drain will kill a 100 AH battery in about a thousand hours.
Yeah, I know it's a little more complicated than that, but it's a
reasonable approximation.  Three batteries, 3,000 hours.  So It's not a
very significant drain, but it might be worth tracking it down.  I have a
similar drain on my boat, and am suspicious of the ACR relay as well.  One
of these days I'll look into it.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 9:32 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I had a suspicion of a power leak in my DC system so did some diagnostics
> yesterday.  I have a solar panel running when not on the boat, so it has
> not been a high priority to solve (the batteries are always fully charged
> when I get to the boat), but I wanted to determine if it was real.  I took
> all the negative leads off the batteries and then put my ammeter between
> the negative lead and the negative post of the house battery. I have a Blue
> Seas “add a battery” rotary switch which isolates the start battery from
> the house battery.  I normally leave this switch on so that the emergency
> bilge pump switch and LED courtesy lights will operate.  Those are the only
> things I know of that still work when the panel switches are all off.  I
> measured a 100 mA with the rotary switch on and all panel switches off.  I
> measured 0 mA with the switch off. I thought it might be the automatic
> bilge pump, but that is a mechanical float switch and disconnecting it had
> no effect.  So either I am getting current through the panel with all
> circuit breakers off or this somehow relates to the battery isolation in
> the Blue Seas ACR system.  Any thoughts from the geniuses on this list as
> to where to go next diagnosing this?  Also, is 100 mA a significant drain?
> Thanks- Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List C&C NW Rendezvous. Telegraph Harbor, BC

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Tom,

Nice video and a great way to promote the Northwest Rendezvous. Not quite as 
good as the ones we use to promote the Northeast Rendezvous — 
https://youtu.be/M8yBSXuHPaQ  — but nice work. 

Not that it’s a competition or anything, but if it were, we’d totally be 
winning. :-)

Eight boats coming with a few weeks to sign up remaining — Join the Rendezvous 
in Greenport, NY (Long Island’s north fork) — www.cncnortheast.com 
 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 








On Aug 17, 2017, at 9:41 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List  
wrote:

http://youtu.be/hTBU6_HwvFA 


Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660

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