Re: Stus-List Mast pumping?

[Mark Smith via CnC-List]

Loosen the backstay.


On 8/13/2017 1:28 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Al,

Hoist a fender up a halyard so it hangs somewhere between the upper & 
lower spreaders and is near or alongside the mast.


Or, goggle vortex shedding and then after an hour or so of reading, 
see above.


It's nothing to worry about. */Sweet /*does this occasionally.

Cheers, Russ

At 08:55 PM 12/08/2017, you wrote:
So I'm sitting at the dock with a 10 knot breeze on the beam and a 
strange pulsating noise begins. You can feel it through the boat. I 
go on deck and find it's the mast moving fore and aft at the middle. 
Thinking it strange I tighten the baby stay and it slows but doesn't 
stop. Anyone else have this happen? What to do?


Cheers, Al


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hitachi Alternator woes...

[Matti Airas via CnC-List]

Hi,

I just had a similar charging issue. The motor is a Yanmar 3gm30f. The
alternator was not original. With Nigel Calder's "Boatowners Mechanical and
Electrical Manual" (highly, highly recommended!) I was able to trace the
issue to a faulty charging regulator. We weren't close to home at the time,
so I had call in a boat electrician to have it replaced. He just replaced
the old alternator with a little-used second-hand Hitachi one. Couldn't
really be picky at that point.

As far as I understand, with ACRs, even any automotive charger from a car
parts store would do, as long as it mechanically fits and the RPMs are in
the correct ballpark. With your biggish house bank, you might want to get a
slightly heftier alternator while at it.

Cheers,

Matti
C&C 36 "Hurma"
Helsinki, Finland


On 13 August 2017 at 06:38, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:

> Good evening all,
>
> A new one on me, my batteries no longer appear to be fully charging via
> the alternator, while they do fully charge via shore power.   Specifically,
> the (new) start battery sees only 12.56v while the engine is running, this
> is not sufficient to close the ACR, and the house bank (2 ea, also new,
> group 31 @ 130a/h ea).  therefore receives no charge at all.   Surprise!
> I believe this means the stock Hitachi 55a alternator is failing.
> Any thoughts on this and any recommendations on a replacement alternator?
>
> Thanks!  Dave.
>
> Windstar, 33-2 with yanmar 2gm20
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Peter,

If you are in Canada, you may try this place: http://www.marineledscanada.ca/. 
I had good success with him. The best thing is that he sails himself and knows 
a lot of different light fixtures from dealing with other people. You can email 
him or call him and you should figure it out. I had a problem with the anchor 
light (all bulbs that were originally available were too long), but we 
eventually found something after a long string of emails, pictures and 
measurements. And he is quite reasonably priced.

Any good source in the US would kill you with shipping.

Marek
Ottawa, ON

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2017 13:48
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Peter Fell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?

Well it can be a bit of a search for a correct bulb, at reasonable price, and 
the manufacturers often don't always give very clear info.

I've been looking at LED festoon bulbs to convert a new Perko horizontal mount 
stern light on my 27 (the small 'dome' type), mounted in the teak trim on the 
stern. Previous owner had replaced the dome on the original fitting (same style 
as the Perko) with a all-round one (!), and the light itself was pretty 
deteriorated. So the bulb is 31mm 'type 71', not the larger, much more common, 
42mm.

I've found Dr. LED bulbs at $40+ (CAD) (part number 9000173) that are clearly 
identified as a nav light replacement. Then there is the Victory SourceLED at 
$16 that is only identified as 'for Perko lights'.   I'll probably go for the 
Dr. LED. At least I found an unused Perko fixture at a marine consignment shop 
for $22, rather than the $75 I was quoted otherwise.

By the way, I looked at the Victory stern lights of the same style. Couldn't 
find a LED socket-type bulb that would fit. And the Sea Dog versions you find 
all over the place (which I think would have the same issue with LED bulbs) 
have not been tested to international standards.


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Stus-List Port replacement

[Adam Hayden via CnC-List]

Hey all.  I am finally going to replace the ports in my C&C 36.  I know this 
has been discussed at length.  Just quickly will the 3M vhb tape work and does 
it seal as well.

Thanks

Adam Hayden

Get Outlook for Android

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Re: Stus-List Hitachi Alternator woes...

[G Collins via CnC-List]

Take the alternator to a battery / alternator shop and get it tested, 
they can probably fix it.  Had to do that on my previous boat, volvo engine.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11

On 2017-08-13 12:38 AM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:
> Good evening all,
>
> A new one on me, my batteries no longer appear to be fully charging via the 
> alternator, while they do fully charge via shore power.   Specifically, the 
> (new) start battery sees only 12.56v while the engine is running, this is not 
> sufficient to close the ACR, and the house bank (2 ea, also new, group 31 @ 
> 130a/h ea).  therefore receives no charge at all.   Surprise!
> I believe this means the stock Hitachi 55a alternator is failing.
> Any thoughts on this and any recommendations on a replacement alternator?
>
> Thanks!  Dave.
>
> Windstar, 33-2 with yanmar 2gm20
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> .
>


___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Mike Brannon via CnC-List]

Adam, I have a 1978 C&C 36.  I replaced my ports with Bomar 2000 Series opening 
ports. I had to make the openings slightly larger but it worked well and 
I've not had any leaks since they were installed in2006.

Mike Brannon
Virginia Lee 93295. 1978 C&C 36 CB
Virginia Beach, VA

Sent from my iPad Mini

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 08:53, Adam Hayden via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hey all.  I am finally going to replace the ports in my C&C 36.  I know this 
> has been discussed at length.  Just quickly will the 3M vhb tape work and 
> does it seal as well.
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> Adam Hayden
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[Fred Hazzard via CnC-List]

Adam I just replaced a port light using VHB tape and am very pleased with
results.  The tape with the Dow silicon sealant are very secure and
waterproof.  Follow the good advise of our fellow listers and the project
will go well.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C&C 44
Portland, Or

On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 7:07 AM, Mike Brannon via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Adam, I have a 1978 C&C 36.  I replaced my ports with Bomar 2000 Series
> opening ports. I had to make the openings slightly larger but it worked
> well and I've not had any leaks since they were installed in2006.
>
> Mike Brannon
> Virginia Lee 93295. 1978 C&C 36 CB
> Virginia Beach, VA
>
> Sent from my iPad Mini
>
> On Aug 13, 2017, at 08:53, Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Hey all.  I am finally going to replace the ports in my C&C 36.  I know
> this has been discussed at length.  Just quickly will the 3M vhb tape work
> and does it seal as well.
>
> Thanks
>
> Adam Hayden
>
> Get Outlook for Android 
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

You Canadians don't have the benefit of Amazon Prime?  That would suck... OK, 
that could change my previous post.
 Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
 Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 8:37 AM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
   
#yiv7004593869 #yiv7004593869 -- _filtered #yiv7004593869 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 
6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv7004593869 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 
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1.0in 1.0in;}#yiv7004593869 div.yiv7004593869WordSection1 {}#yiv7004593869 
Peter,    If you are in Canada, you may try this 
place:http://www.marineledscanada.ca/. I had good success with him. The best 
thing is that he sails himself and knows a lot of different light fixtures from 
dealing with other people. You can email him or call him and you should figure 
it out. I had a problem with the anchor light (all bulbs that were originally 
available were too long), but we eventually found something after a long string 
of emails, pictures and measurements. And he is quite reasonably priced.    Any 
good source in the US would kill you with shipping.    Marek Ottawa, ON    
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2017 13:48
To: 1 CnC List 
Cc: Peter Fell 
Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?    
Well it can be a bit of a search for a correct bulb, at reasonable price, and 
the manufacturers often don't always give very clear info.    I've been looking 
at LED festoon bulbs to convert a new Perko horizontal mount stern light on my 
27 (the small 'dome' type), mounted in the teak trim on the stern. Previous 
owner had replaced the dome on the original fitting (same style as the Perko) 
with a all-round one (!), and the light itself was pretty deteriorated. So the 
bulb is 31mm 'type 71', not the larger, much more common, 42mm.     I've found 
Dr. LED bulbs at $40+ (CAD) (part number 9000173) that are clearly identified 
as a nav light replacement. Then there is the Victory SourceLED at $16 that is 
only identified as 'for Perko lights'.   I'll probably go for the Dr. LED. At 
least I found an unused Perko fixture at a marine consignment shop for $22, 
rather than the $75 I was quoted otherwise.    By the way, I looked at the 
Victory stern lights of the same style. Couldn't find a LED socket-type bulb 
that would fit. And the Sea Dog versions you find all over the place (which I 
think would have the same issue with LED bulbs) have not been tested to 
international standards.       ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

I have been in the process of replacing all the interior light bulbs with LEDs, 
and am now moving on to the navigation lights.  For my bow navigation lights, 
I'm probably going to go with Marinebeam, as I could not find high-intensity 
green 1157 LEDs.  There are plenty of red ones out there (think automotive turn 
signal bulbs), but not much in the way of bright green ones.  I'm just waiting 
to hear back from them with confirmation of the lumens produced by their bulbs.
As for the rest of the bulbs (and I will include the stern light in this 
comment because the Marinebeam light for the stern is going to be TOO bright), 
there are plenty of versions of festoon/automotive 12v LED bulbs out there, and 
many come in packages of 10 or more for somewhere around $15.  

The key is is look for lumens, and compare them to the bulb you are replacing.  
It takes a little bit of research, but by poking around the net you can find 
out how many lumens your current bulb puts out, consider whether you want your 
light to be brighter (usually that is the case), and also consider the color of 
the white light.  I found that most of the time when it says "warm white", that 
amounts to 3000K, which was spot-on equivalent to the halogen bulbs I was 
replacing.  You may want to go all the way to a bright white (6000K) for the 
stern light for the sake of aiding visibility, but I think that's a little too 
white for interior lights.

As for the festoon bulbs, measure the length in mm, and search for them that 
way - don't worry, you'll find them.
I also ended up putting a bright dome lamp in my engine compartment, and I had 
some strips of white LEDs, and now I can work on my engine without a 
flashlight.  That's been a great addition. 

So far I can turn on every light in the boat and draw no more than 3 amps, and 
there's a lot of lights in our C&C 37/40+

Hoping you find this helpful,  Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net


  From: Peter Fell via CnC-List 
 To: 1 CnC List  
Cc: Peter Fell 
 Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2017 1:49 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
   
Well it can be a bit of a search for a correct bulb, at reasonable price, and 
the manufacturers often don't always give very clear info.
I've been looking at LED festoon bulbs to convert a new Perko horizontal mount 
stern light on my 27 (the small 'dome' type), mounted in the teak trim on the 
stern. Previous owner had replaced the dome on the original fitting (same style 
as the Perko) with a all-round one (!), and the light itself was pretty 
deteriorated. So the bulb is 31mm 'type 71', not the larger, much more common, 
42mm. 
I've found Dr. LED bulbs at $40+ (CAD) (part number 9000173) that are clearly 
identified as a nav light replacement. Then there is the Victory SourceLED at 
$16 that is only identified as 'for Perko lights'.   I'll probably go for the 
Dr. LED. At least I found an unused Perko fixture at a marine consignment shop 
for $22, rather than the $75 I was quoted otherwise.
By the way, I looked at the Victory stern lights of the same style. Couldn't 
find a LED socket-type bulb that would fit. And the Sea Dog versions you find 
all over the place (which I think would have the same issue with LED bulbs) 
have not been tested to international standards.

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Hitachi Alternator woes...

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I replaced my original 35 amp alternator with a much larger capacity one.
Defender had a sale on a Balmar alternator with an external regulator.
With so much more drain (refrigeration, computer, MFD, etc.) it was a no
brainer to make the change.  My engine is a 3GMF (20 hp).

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 3:09 AM, Matti Airas via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I just had a similar charging issue. The motor is a Yanmar 3gm30f. The
> alternator was not original. With Nigel Calder's "Boatowners Mechanical and
> Electrical Manual" (highly, highly recommended!) I was able to trace the
> issue to a faulty charging regulator. We weren't close to home at the time,
> so I had call in a boat electrician to have it replaced. He just replaced
> the old alternator with a little-used second-hand Hitachi one. Couldn't
> really be picky at that point.
>
> As far as I understand, with ACRs, even any automotive charger from a car
> parts store would do, as long as it mechanically fits and the RPMs are in
> the correct ballpark. With your biggish house bank, you might want to get a
> slightly heftier alternator while at it.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Matti
> C&C 36 "Hurma"
> Helsinki, Finland
>
>
> On 13 August 2017 at 06:38, Dave via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Good evening all,
>>
>> A new one on me, my batteries no longer appear to be fully charging via
>> the alternator, while they do fully charge via shore power.   Specifically,
>> the (new) start battery sees only 12.56v while the engine is running, this
>> is not sufficient to close the ACR, and the house bank (2 ea, also new,
>> group 31 @ 130a/h ea).  therefore receives no charge at all.   Surprise!
>> I believe this means the stock Hitachi 55a alternator is failing.
>> Any thoughts on this and any recommendations on a replacement alternator?
>>
>> Thanks!  Dave.
>>
>> Windstar, 33-2 with yanmar 2gm20
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=ejIS-
> UCaAaSoknaZUODawImRE-y2-L_jdeVgiF7MF_E&s=tJQNZm6Vig-
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>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Hitachi Alternator woes...

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks matti and graham-
Seems like a fairly routine failure, and it looks like I can order a 
replacement fairly inexpensively and then rebuild the existing as a spare.
Any sort of upgrade seems to be of limited benefit.
Added to my project list:  convenient test probe sockets for each bank to plug 
in a vom for troubleshooting purposes.
Thanks
Dave.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 6:09 AM, Matti Airas  wrote:
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just had a similar charging issue. The motor is a Yanmar 3gm30f. The 
> alternator was not original. With Nigel Calder's "Boatowners Mechanical and 
> Electrical Manual" (highly, highly recommended!) I was able to trace the 
> issue to a faulty charging regulator. We weren't close to home at the time, 
> so I had call in a boat electrician to have it replaced. He just replaced the 
> old alternator with a little-used second-hand Hitachi one. Couldn't really be 
> picky at that point.
> 
> As far as I understand, with ACRs, even any automotive charger from a car 
> parts store would do, as long as it mechanically fits and the RPMs are in the 
> correct ballpark. With your biggish house bank, you might want to get a 
> slightly heftier alternator while at it.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Matti
> C&C 36 "Hurma"
> Helsinki, Finland
> 
> 
>> On 13 August 2017 at 06:38, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
>> Good evening all,
>> 
>> A new one on me, my batteries no longer appear to be fully charging via the 
>> alternator, while they do fully charge via shore power.   Specifically, the 
>> (new) start battery sees only 12.56v while the engine is running, this is 
>> not sufficient to close the ACR, and the house bank (2 ea, also new, group 
>> 31 @ 130a/h ea).  therefore receives no charge at all.   Surprise!
>> I believe this means the stock Hitachi 55a alternator is failing.
>> Any thoughts on this and any recommendations on a replacement alternator?
>> 
>> Thanks!  Dave.
>> 
>> Windstar, 33-2 with yanmar 2gm20
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Mast pumping?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The 37+ mast was rigged with check stays and/or running backs to help
stabilize the mast against pumping.  If you harden up the babystay to pull
the belly of the mast forward and then firm up the backstay and set the
check stays you should be able to find a combination that sufficiently
stabilizes the mast.

This is all predicated on the assumption that the rig is properly tuned to
begin with.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Aug 12, 2017 11:56 PM, "Alan Liles via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> So I'm sitting at the dock with a 10 knot breeze on the beam and a strange
> pulsating noise begins. You can feel it through the boat. I go on deck and
> find it's the mast moving fore and aft at the middle. Thinking it strange I
> tighten the baby stay and it slows but doesn't stop. Anyone else have this
> happen? What to do?
>
> Cheers, Al
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Mast pumping?

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

These things can be mysterious. Here's some more items to check:
www.briontoss.com/spartalk/showthread.php?p=6821

Good luck with the quest.

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1

At 02:27 AM 13/08/2017, you wrote:


Loosen the backstay.

On 8/13/2017 1:28 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Al,

Hoist a fender up a halyard so it hangs somewhere between the upper 
& lower spreaders and is near or alongside the mast.


Or, goggle vortex shedding and then after an hour or so of reading, 
see above.


It's nothing to worry about. Sweet does this occasionally.

Cheers, Russ

At 08:55 PM 12/08/2017, you wrote:
So I'm sitting at the dock with a 10 knot breeze on the beam and a 
strange pulsating noise begins. You can feel it through the boat. 
I go on deck and find it's the mast moving fore and aft at the 
middle. Thinking it strange I tighten the baby stay and it slows 
but doesn't stop. Anyone else have this happen? What to do?


Cheers, Al


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Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?

[Persuasion37 via CnC-List]

Someone should tell my daughter she doesn't really have an Amazon Prime account🤔

Mike
PERSUASION
C&C 37 K/CB
Long Sault

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 10:49 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> You Canadians don't have the benefit of Amazon Prime?  That would suck... OK, 
> that could change my previous post.
>  
> Bruce Whitmore
> 
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
> 
> 
> From: Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
> Cc: Marek Dziedzic 
> Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 8:37 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
> 
> Peter,
>  
> If you are in Canada, you may try this place: 
> http://www.marineledscanada.ca/. I had good success with him. The best thing 
> is that he sails himself and knows a lot of different light fixtures from 
> dealing with other people. You can email him or call him and you should 
> figure it out. I had a problem with the anchor light (all bulbs that were 
> originally available were too long), but we eventually found something after 
> a long string of emails, pictures and measurements. And he is quite 
> reasonably priced.
>  
> Any good source in the US would kill you with shipping.
>  
> Marek
> Ottawa, ON
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter Fell 
> via CnC-List
> Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2017 13:48
> To: 1 CnC List 
> Cc: Peter Fell 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List changing stern light & converting nav lights to LEDs?
>  
> Well it can be a bit of a search for a correct bulb, at reasonable price, and 
> the manufacturers often don't always give very clear info.
>  
> I've been looking at LED festoon bulbs to convert a new Perko horizontal 
> mount stern light on my 27 (the small 'dome' type), mounted in the teak trim 
> on the stern. Previous owner had replaced the dome on the original fitting 
> (same style as the Perko) with a all-round one (!), and the light itself was 
> pretty deteriorated. So the bulb is 31mm 'type 71', not the larger, much more 
> common, 42mm. 
>  
> I've found Dr. LED bulbs at $40+ (CAD) (part number 9000173) that are clearly 
> identified as a nav light replacement. Then there is the Victory SourceLED at 
> $16 that is only identified as 'for Perko lights'.   I'll probably go for the 
> Dr. LED. At least I found an unused Perko fixture at a marine consignment 
> shop for $22, rather than the $75 I was quoted otherwise.
>  
> By the way, I looked at the Victory stern lights of the same style. Couldn't 
> find a LED socket-type bulb that would fit. And the Sea Dog versions you find 
> all over the place (which I think would have the same issue with LED bulbs) 
> have not been tested to international standards.
>  
>  
> ___
> 
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> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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> 
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> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Port replacement

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

Adam,The VHB tape is only what holds the port light in place. It is the Dow 
Corning that does the actual sealing. I am experimenting with installing my new 
port lights, on my LF39, only during the cool part of the day and keeping the 
plexiglass out of the Sun as much as possible. On my last boat, LF38, I 
installed them during the hottest part of the day, and after some time I found 
a couple of leaks. These were where I had less than a 1/4 inch gap for sealant. 
My thinking on this is that the plexiglass expands when hot. I figure it is 
better to squeeze the sealant than have the plexiglass pull away when in 
shrinks when cool. I also rough up the edges and anywhere the sealant will be, 
along with minimum 1/4 inch gap. I am replacing both side port lights 6ft long 
by 8 inches tall, and 3 hatch lenses. FWIW. 

Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah  LF39 
 Original message From: Adam Hayden via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/13/17  05:53  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Adam Hayden  Subject: 
Stus-List Port replacement 


Hey all.  I am finally going to replace the ports in my C&C 36.  I know this 
has been discussed at length.  Just quickly will the 3M vhb tape work and does 
it seal as well.





Thanks 





Adam Hayden






Get Outlook for Android



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Stus-List Crack at hull support below the chainplate

[Chris Hobson via CnC-List]

Discovered a crack on the portside inside the cabin where the chainplate 
attaches to the fibreglass hull/deck support. Not sure if this is structural or 
cosmetic. Had someone jump up and down on the portside deck forward and aft of 
the shrouds to see if there was any movement. Didn’t see any. Have a look at 
the photos:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHeE5nY0VTYlJ3Z0U?usp=sharing 


Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C&C MKI 
HIN 615___

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Re: Stus-List Crack at hull support below the chainplate

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

It looks structural to me. Not a hard fix. I would grind out the crack fill 
with thickened epoxy, then tab it to the hull with bi-axial cloth. 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 
 Original message From: Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/13/17  10:35  (GMT-08:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chris Hobson  Subject: 
Stus-List Crack at hull support below the chainplate 
Discovered a crack on the portside inside the cabin where the chainplate 
attaches to the fibreglass hull/deck support. Not sure if this is structural or 
cosmetic. Had someone jump up and down on the portside deck forward and aft of 
the shrouds to see if there was any movement. Didn’t see any. Have a look at 
the photos:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHeE5nY0VTYlJ3Z0U?usp=sharing
Chris HobsonS/V Going1980 C&C MKI HIN 615___

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Re: Stus-List Mast pumping?

[Alan Liles via CnC-List]

I spent some time loosening and tightening mast related items. The spare genoa 
halyard had the most effect. When I eased it the mast shook a couple of times 
then settled down. There has been no vibrations since, although the conditions 
have changed as well. Thanks for all replies on a perplexing issue. 

Al Liles
SV Elendil
C&C 37/40+
Vancouver 


> On Aug 13, 2017, at 9:30 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> These things can be mysterious. Here's some more items to check:
>  www.briontoss.com/spartalk/showthread.php?p=6821
> 
> Good luck with the quest.
> 
> Cheers, Russ
> Sweet 35 mk-1
> 
> At 02:27 AM 13/08/2017, you wrote:
> 
>> Loosen the backstay.
>> 
>>> On 8/13/2017 1:28 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Al,
>>> 
>>> Hoist a fender up a halyard so it hangs somewhere between the upper & lower 
>>> spreaders and is near or alongside the mast.
>>> 
>>> Or, goggle vortex shedding and then after an hour or so of reading, see 
>>> above.
>>> 
>>> It's nothing to worry about. Sweet does this occasionally.
>>> 
>>> Cheers, Russ
>>> 
>>> At 08:55 PM 12/08/2017, you wrote:
 So I'm sitting at the dock with a 10 knot breeze on the beam and a strange 
 pulsating noise begins. You can feel it through the boat. I go on deck and 
 find it's the mast moving fore and aft at the middle. Thinking it strange 
 I tighten the baby stay and it slows but doesn't stop. Anyone else have 
 this happen? What to do?
 
 Cheers, Al
 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
 wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
>>> 
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Crack at hull support below the chainplate

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Is this a 30 MK1? If yes, on this boat the chain plate is attached to the 
"knee" and the knee is heavily glassed to the hull. What you see on the bottom 
is just a shelf which goes around the knee and doesn't provide any significant 
structural support. The knee continues though the shelf and ends few inches 
under. You can't see this on the port side due to the wood paneling (I have 
built a removable door on mine so I can inspect it) but you should be able to 
see it on the starboard side if you remove the cushions. When the knee starts 
to separate from the hull, it usually starts from the bottom where glasses mats 
overlap which you should be able to see...

Cheers,
Aaron
Admiral Maggie
79 30-1
Annapolis, MD

On Aug 13, 2017, at 1:35 PM, Chris Hobson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Discovered a crack on the portside inside the cabin where the chainplate 
attaches to the fibreglass hull/deck support. Not sure if this is structural or 
cosmetic. Had someone jump up and down on the portside deck forward and aft of 
the shrouds to see if there was any movement. Didn’t see any. Have a look at 
the photos:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_lwczpvPcEHeE5nY0VTYlJ3Z0U?usp=sharing

Chris Hobson
S/V Going
1980 C&C MKI
HIN 615
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Electrical panel > J Boat Regatta

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

If you are able to see the j-boats race, you'll never forget it  better than 
america cup racing.  We had the good fortune to watch in Bermuda on the water 
and close up.Will never forget JimSEA YA!c&c 38 lfWashington nc 


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: Nauset Beach via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/12/17  3:03 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Nauset Beach  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Electrical panel > J Boat Regatta 
Gary, Where is the sailing area?  The posted NOR does not indicate where they 
will be racing, and the SI’s were not posted as of yesterday.  Would assume 
outside unless the weather is really poor, but maybe they want to be inside for 
any shore spectators...   Thanks,Brian From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ahycrace via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 11, 2017 4:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: ahycrace 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel We will arrive in newport on thursday 
and stay at the Newport Yacht Club. Probably sail out to the course fri and sat 
to see what we can see without getting in anybodys way. Enjoy your trip as well 
as your time at the block.         Gary K. "Liberty" Sent from my Verizon, 
Samsung Galaxy smartphone  Original message From: Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List  Date: 8/10/17 9:52 PM 
(GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Electrical panel  We plan to 
leave Padanaram on Sun Aug 20 and stay at Newport Yachting Center for a few 
nights before heading to Block Island.  Hope to catch some racing en route to 
Block Chuck Gilchrest S/V Half Magic1983 35 LandfallPadanaram,MA___

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Re: Stus-List Hitachi Alternator woes...

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Here's a good rundown on the Hitachi alternator, and the 'super-dumb'
regulator they utilize:

https://marinehowto.com/automotive-alternators-vs-deep-cycle-batteries/

You might want to consider changing your setup so that the alternator
charges directly to the house bank. Your house battery is going to have far
more potential to be deeply discharged than your start battery.  And take
the opportunity of replacing alternator to make sure you have the battery
banks fused properly, and consider doing so for your starter circuit as
well, and a disconnect switch mounted between alternator and battery bank.

On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 8:54 AM, Dave S via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Thanks matti and graham-
> Seems like a fairly routine failure, and it looks like I can order a
> replacement fairly inexpensively and then rebuild the existing as a spare.
>Any sort of upgrade seems to be of limited benefit.
> Added to my project list:  convenient test probe sockets for each bank to
> plug in a vom for troubleshooting purposes.
> Thanks
> Dave.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 13, 2017, at 6:09 AM, Matti Airas  wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> I just had a similar charging issue. The motor is a Yanmar 3gm30f. The
> alternator was not original. With Nigel Calder's "Boatowners Mechanical and
> Electrical Manual" (highly, highly recommended!) I was able to trace the
> issue to a faulty charging regulator. We weren't close to home at the time,
> so I had call in a boat electrician to have it replaced. He just replaced
> the old alternator with a little-used second-hand Hitachi one. Couldn't
> really be picky at that point.
>
> As far as I understand, with ACRs, even any automotive charger from a car
> parts store would do, as long as it mechanically fits and the RPMs are in
> the correct ballpark. With your biggish house bank, you might want to get a
> slightly heftier alternator while at it.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Matti
> C&C 36 "Hurma"
> Helsinki, Finland
>
>
> On 13 August 2017 at 06:38, Dave via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> Good evening all,
>>
>> A new one on me, my batteries no longer appear to be fully charging via
>> the alternator, while they do fully charge via shore power.   Specifically,
>> the (new) start battery sees only 12.56v while the engine is running, this
>> is not sufficient to close the ACR, and the house bank (2 ea, also new,
>> group 31 @ 130a/h ea).  therefore receives no charge at all.   Surprise!
>> I believe this means the stock Hitachi 55a alternator is failing.
>> Any thoughts on this and any recommendations on a replacement alternator?
>>
>> Thanks!  Dave.
>>
>> Windstar, 33-2 with yanmar 2gm20
>>
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>> ___
>>
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>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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>>
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>>
>
>
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>
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>
>
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