Re: Stus-List 35 - 3; hauliiing costs?

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

I agree its not a deal breaker...I had my 37 trucked from Newburyport 
Massachusetts to Louisville, KY about 3 years ago...cost was about $3700.00 
more or less

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4; C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Leslie Paal 
Sent: Sat, Aug 5, 2017 1:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

I have shipped a C&C25 from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase.  (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.)Leslie.On Tue, 
8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote: Subject: 
Stus-List 35 - 3 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM  Hello All, I 
have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for about 25 years. I have raced and  cruised 
with her extensively. She is one of the winning-est boats in the  Middle 
Atlantic states. 18 trophies in the Around Long Island Regatta,  multiple club 
championships. Multiple NJ offshore racing conference  firsts (seconds and 
thirds). Third in C&C worlds. This summer, in two  major regattas, in 10 races, 
9 1sts and 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe,  dependable wonderful sailing vessel. 
I am moving to California and it is  too expensive to ship it, so it is for 
sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3  available. Needs nothing and ready to sail 
away. Still actively being  used. Extensive upgrades. Please email for pictures 
and complete info. Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again  
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list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make 
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Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to flush
anti-freeze through the system.  I've considered installing a tee in the
line.  Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that fits in the top of
most any raw water strainer but it didn't look like there was enough
vertical clearance.  There is an adaptor for a Groco strainer but my C&C 37+
with a Yanmar 3HM35F appears to have a Perko 0493 Size 5 strainer.  I
contacted Perko who indicated that I could convert my 0493 strainer to a
0593 model which has a flush valve and hose connection on the top.
Unfortunately, it looks like I'd need about $250 worth of parts to make this
work.  I've heard that a second cap for the strainer could be modified by
installing a hose fitting.  The cap costs about $35.

 

I'm curious what other listers have done and if I'm right on the strainer
model #.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Ron, 
I just close the intake through hull, take the top off the strainer, and pour 
in antifreeze with engine running..done.
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

On Saturday, August 5, 2017 Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
wrote:

Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to flush 
anti-freeze through the system.  I’ve considered installing a tee in the line.  
Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that fits in the top of most any 
raw water strainer but it didn’t look like there was enough vertical clearance. 
 There is an adaptor for a Groco strainer but my C&C 37+ with a Yanmar 3HM35F 
appears to have a Perko 0493 Size 5 strainer.  I contacted Perko who indicated 
that I could convert my 0493 strainer to a 0593 model which has a flush valve 
and hose connection on the top.  Unfortunately, it looks like I’d need about 
$250 worth of parts to make this work.  I’ve heard that a second cap for the 
strainer could be modified by installing a hose fitting.  The cap costs about 
$35.

 

I’m curious what other listers have done and if I’m right on the strainer model 
#.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Ron,

Having done the same struggle for years, in 2015 I installed a tee valve under 
that same floorboard. It was from this company:

http://www.quickflushvalve.com/how-it-works.html

I also added a long enough hose to reach the helm, so now, when winterizing, I 
close the thru hull, change the tee, and lead the hose to a bucket on the deck. 
Same with spring commissioning on the hard. Now only a one person job -- and an 
easy one at that. 

I can't recommend it enough, but shame on you for bringing up a winterizing 
subject in August. 

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise 
C&C 37+ 
Sail Number: NCC-1701-B
City Island, New York
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone 7
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize


On Aug 5, 2017, at 9:01 AM, William Walker via CnC-List  
wrote:

Ron, 
I just close the intake through hull, take the top off the strainer, and pour 
in antifreeze with engine running..done.
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater Mi

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail



On Saturday, August 5, 2017 Ron Ricci via CnC-List  
wrote:

Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to flush 
anti-freeze through the system.  I’ve considered installing a tee in the line.  
Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that fits in the top of most any 
raw water strainer but it didn’t look like there was enough vertical clearance. 
 There is an adaptor for a Groco strainer but my C&C 37+ with a Yanmar 3HM35F 
appears to have a Perko 0493 Size 5 strainer.  I contacted Perko who indicated 
that I could convert my 0493 strainer to a 0593 model which has a flush valve 
and hose connection on the top.  Unfortunately, it looks like I’d need about 
$250 worth of parts to make this work.  I’ve heard that a second cap for the 
strainer could be modified by installing a hose fitting.  The cap costs about 
$35.

 

I’m curious what other listers have done and if I’m right on the strainer model 
#. 

 

Regards,
Ron

Ron Ricci
S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI
ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

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Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

[robert via CnC-List]

My raw water strainer is deep inside the engine compartment and too 
inaccessible to easily pour antifreeze into it.


I put a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit with 2 gallons of antifreeze (50% 
- 50%) in it.disconnect the raw water intake hose from water 
pump..connect a hose from the bucket to the water pump, start the 
engine and suck the antifreeze through until I see it exiting the thru 
hull at the transomshut the engine down. Disconnect the bucket hose 
and reconnect the water water hose to the pump.  Pour any remaining 
antifreeze in the bucket into the head. It's a one person task.


My boat is on the 'hard' when I do this..if it was in the water, I 
would simply close the raw water intake thru hull first.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-08-05 9:47 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote:


Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to 
flush anti-freeze through the system.  I’ve considered installing a 
tee in the line.  Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that 
fits in the top of most any raw water strainer but it didn’t look like 
there was enough vertical clearance.  There is an adaptor for a Groco 
strainer but my C&C 37+ with a Yanmar 3HM35F appears to have a Perko 
0493 Size 5 strainer.  I contacted Perko who indicated that I could 
convert my 0493 strainer to a 0593 model which has a flush valve and 
hose connection on the top.  Unfortunately, it looks like I’d need 
about $250 worth of parts to make this work.  I’ve heard that a second 
cap for the strainer could be modified by installing a hose fitting.  
The cap costs about $35.


I’m curious what other listers have done and if I’m right on the 
strainer model #.


Regards,

/Ron/

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com 



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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I didn’t have enough room to pour into the top of the strainer, so put a T in 
the input line. It has the benefit of being able to pump the bilge in an 
emergency.

 

Gary

30-1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William 
Walker via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 9:01 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

 

Ron, 
I just close the intake through hull, take the top off the strainer, and pour 
in antifreeze with engine running..done.
Bill Walker 
CnC 36
Pentwater Mi 

Sent from AOL Mobile Mail

  _  

On Saturday, August 5, 2017 Ron Ricci via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to flush 
anti-freeze through the system.  I’ve considered installing a tee in the line.  
Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that fits in the top of most any 
raw water strainer but it didn’t look like there was enough vertical clearance. 
 There is an adaptor for a Groco strainer but my C&C 37+ with a Yanmar 3HM35F 
appears to have a Perko 0493 Size 5 strainer.  I contacted Perko who indicated 
that I could convert my 0493 strainer to a 0593 model which has a flush valve 
and hose connection on the top.  Unfortunately, it looks like I’d need about 
$250 worth of parts to make this work.  I’ve heard that a second cap for the 
strainer could be modified by installing a hose fitting.  The cap costs about 
$35.

 

I’m curious what other listers have done and if I’m right on the strainer model 
#.  

 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

ron.ri...@1968.usna.com  

 

 

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Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

[John and Maryann Read via CnC-List]

Shipping costs can be substantially reduced if you have time and can schedule 
delivery as part of the round trip the truck has to make

We trucked our 34 from Rochester NY to Mystic CT when we bought her - paid the 
roundtrip cost of the truck but was not excessive

John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT
-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Leslie Paal 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2017 1:32 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Leslie Paal
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

I have shipped a C&C25 from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase.  (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.)

Leslie.


On Tue, 8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List 35 - 3
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM
 
 Hello All,
 I have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for
 about 25 years. I have raced and
 cruised with her extensively. She is
 one of the winning-est boats in the
 Middle Atlantic states. 18 trophies in
 the Around Long Island Regatta,
 multiple club championships. Multiple
 NJ offshore racing conference
 firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in
 C&C worlds. This summer, in two
 major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and
 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe,
 dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I
 am moving to California and it is
 too expensive to ship it, so it is for
 sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3
 available. Needs nothing and ready to
 sail away. Still actively being
 used. Extensive upgrades. Please email
 for pictures and complete info.
 Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again
 
 ___
 
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 donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution  to offset our 
costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

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Stus-List Diesel in bilge - Update

[robert via CnC-List]

Recreated the situation by over filling my fuel tank again right to the 
deckclimbed into the lazarette with tools/lights and 
observed.small amount of diesel leaking at the hose - tank 
connection..approx. 4 complete turns on the two SS hose clamp screws 
and the leak stopped.


Mystery solved!

A few years back, I had a similar issue with antifreeze in the 
bilge.turns out one of the antifreeze bleed screws on the engine had 
come loose and simply needed tightening.


If only all boat issues were this simple.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-08-01 10:22 AM, robert via CnC-List wrote:
Sailed yesterday, got back to the slip, crack open a beer but smell 
diesel fuel in the cabin. Check the bilge and there is about 500 mls 
of fluid there..half water and half dieselI take it out with a 
sponge, first in a clear plastic container where you can clearly see 
two different liquids then pour it in a plastic bottle to dispose at 
our recycle depot at the club.   The bottle holds 555 mls and it was 
almost full so I know how much diesel there was. Couldn't find the 
source yesterday. The other day, I filled the fuel tank, over filled 
it almost to the deck.   Thinking it may have expanded in the heat but 
it should have gone overboard from the overfill hose.  Bottom of fuel 
tank was dry.   No loss of engine power so the fuel line doesn't seem 
to be leaking.   Mystery???


Any ideas where I should concentrate on for the source of it?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Ahoy! 
Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In 
particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is 
prominent in the foredeck? 
Thank you, Richards/v INDIGO Watch Hill ___

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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I have a sea flush and use it.  It works but is not necessary.

Like others I have installed a tee.  It has a garden hose fitting and cap
to allow easy connections.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yYURDZGRKWWhpdzA/view?usp=drivesdk

With this orientation the tee provides the ability to attach a short
section of hose which can be used to suck out a bottle of glycol.  That
same hose easily extends above the water line allowing for the use of a
ramrod to clear a clogged through hull.  Put a second end on this hose and
it can be easily connected to the boat's freshwater system allowing for a
freshwater flush.  Same hose can be directed to suck from the bilge.  While
on the hard this same hose can allow engine operations by connecting to a
garden hose.

The process goes something like this:
Before adding glycol I warm the engine up.  Then I use a shop-vac to blow
the lines clear.  Using the aforementioned hose I can blow the hose to the
through hull clear while simultaneously blowing down the engine.  Once I
can hear the bubbles coming out of the thru-hull then I shut it.  Now all
the force is blowing down the engine.  After about a minute I can feel a
difference in the back pressure.  Now I prepare to add glycol.  I start the
engine and add the amount of glycol which gives me peace of mind.  I am
comfortable with whatever amount is needed in order to see it discharge.
 (If prepared and desired this is now the time to fog the engine by
spraying fogging oil into the intake.)  Shut off the engine.  While the
engine is hot I change the oil.  If keeping the boat in the water for the
winter, it is a good idea to disconnect the exhaust manifold to prevent the
loop seal in the wet muffler from drawing condensation into the engine
resulting in possible stuck rings.  Fogging will also help prevent stuck
rings and corrosion during the layup period.  If power is available during
the layup you might consider installing a block heater.  This further
drives out condensation inside and outside the engine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Aug 5, 2017 8:48 AM, "Ron Ricci via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to
> flush anti-freeze through the system.  I’ve considered installing a tee in
> the line.  Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that fits in the
> top of most any raw water strainer but it didn’t look like there was enough
> vertical clearance.  There is an adaptor for a Groco strainer but my C&C
> 37+ with a Yanmar 3HM35F appears to have a Perko 0493 Size 5 strainer.  I
> contacted Perko who indicated that I could convert my 0493 strainer to a
> 0593 model which has a flush valve and hose connection on the top.
> Unfortunately, it looks like I’d need about $250 worth of parts to make
> this work.  I’ve heard that a second cap for the strainer could be modified
> by installing a hose fitting.  The cap costs about $35.
>
>
>
> I’m curious what other listers have done and if I’m right on the strainer
> model #.
>
>
>
> Regards,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C&C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Winterizing Diesel Engine Raw Water

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I do similar except I run clear plastic tubing from the bucket on deck and 
shove it into the raw water intake port on the outside of the hull.  I start 
with plain water to make sure water is being sucked in and then switch to a 
bucket with 50.50 antifreeze until it is all gone and I see green coming out 
the stern.  One person operation and no disconnections necessary.  Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On Aug 5, 2017, at 9:25 AM, robert via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> My raw water strainer is deep inside the engine compartment and too 
> inaccessible to easily pour antifreeze into it.
> 
> I put a 5 gallon bucket in the cockpit with 2 gallons of antifreeze (50% - 
> 50%) in it.disconnect the raw water intake hose from water 
> pump..connect a hose from the bucket to the water pump, start the engine 
> and suck the antifreeze through until I see it exiting the thru hull at the 
> transomshut the engine down.Disconnect the bucket hose and reconnect 
> the water water hose to the pump.  Pour any remaining antifreeze in the 
> bucket into the head.   It's a one person task.
> 
> My boat is on the 'hard' when I do this..if it was in the water, I would 
> simply close the raw water intake thru hull first.  
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2017-08-05 9:47 AM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List wrote:
>> Each year, I struggle with pulling a hose off my raw water strainer to flush 
>> anti-freeze through the system.  I’ve considered installing a tee in the 
>> line.  Recently I came across an adaptor (Sea Flush) that fits in the top of 
>> most any raw water strainer but it didn’t look like there was enough 
>> vertical clearance.  There is an adaptor for a Groco strainer but my C&C 37+ 
>> with a Yanmar 3HM35F appears to have a Perko 0493 Size 5 strainer.  I 
>> contacted Perko who indicated that I could convert my 0493 strainer to a 
>> 0593 model which has a flush valve and hose connection on the top.  
>> Unfortunately, it looks like I’d need about $250 worth of parts to make this 
>> work.  I’ve heard that a second cap for the strainer could be modified by 
>> installing a hose fitting.  The cap costs about $35.
>>  
>> I’m curious what other listers have done and if I’m right on the strainer 
>> model #.  
>>  
>> Regards,
>> Ron
>> Ron Ricci
>> S/V Patriot
>> C&C 37+
>> Bristol, RI
>> 
>> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com 
>>  
>>  
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
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Stus-List Impeller

[David via CnC-List]

Short of pulling the dang thing every time...any magic coatings to keep the 
fouling off...



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
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Re: Stus-List Overloaded boat overturns near Cape Cod Canal

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

Is the disco volante they mention the C&C 35-2 on this list? Well done to them 
regardless. On Georgian Bay they call bow riders,  water scoops.  

On Tuesday, August 1, 2017 11:08 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 
A 24 foot bow-rider will have installed seating for at least 12 people.,16 is 
not too much on a lake.

A Bahamian sloop will carry a dozen more than a CG certificate willallow. Blame 
the skipper, not the boat. The idiots, no wonder we have somuch government in 
our pockets. It makes me sick thinking about it,sometimes.

  Cheers,Russ

At 07:17 PM 01/08/2017, you wrote:

The article says it was a24-footer. Still a load of bodies...

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 27 July 2017 at 07:09, henry evans via CnC-Listwrote:
   
  - CG capacity on a boat that size would be about 6 or 7 people. You just 
have to wonder if the owner who put 12 aboard has any semblanceof a brain.  
Perhaps he could find his again spending time behindbars.Â
   

  - Hank Evans   
   
   

  - On Thursday, July 27, 2017, 7:23:32 AM CDT, Danny Haughey 
viaCnC-Listwrote:   
   
   

  - Have you guys seen this?   
   

  - 
https://wareham-ma.villagesoup.com/p/officials-bystanders-rescue-12-people-after-boat-capsizes-near-cape-cod-canal/1671817
   
   

  - Danny   
   
   

  - ___   
   

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  - All Contributions are greatly appreciated!   
   

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Re: Stus-List Impeller

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The zinc spray paint made by pettit helps minimize the tenacity with which
the growth adheres.  I would be lying if I was to suggest that it prevents
all forms of fouling.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 5, 2017 10:52 AM, "David via CnC-List"  wrote:

Short of pulling the dang thing every time...any magic coatings to keep the
fouling off...



Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

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___

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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

My suggestion is to go with a manual windlass.  It will save a considerable
amount of money and problems over the years to come.  Getting power to the
windlass will require heavy gage wiring to carry the requisite current or
instead a dedicated battery in/near the anchor locker.  Corrosion on the
terminals, wires and motor internals regularly plagues electric windlasses.

They are hard to find but ebay occasionally has AnchorMan manual windlasses
for about $250.  Even less common is the Muir 500 manual for about $500.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 5, 2017 9:53 AM, "Richard Walter via CnC-List" 
wrote:

Ahoy!

Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In
particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is
prominent in the foredeck?

Thank you,
Richard
s/v INDIGO
Watch Hill

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Stus-List Renaming

[svpegasus38 via CnC-List]

We had a great day yesterday renaming my boat. She is now known as the Rebecca 
Leah, named after my 2 daughters who were able to join us with their husbands. 
I hope it was not a bad sign but a test of the gods. Right after denaming we 
dropped a light in the water, was able to fish it out. After renaming 
girlfriend was steering (chart plotter had gone blank) and we had a soft 
grounding in front of her house. Using rudder and the engine was able to turn 
enough to to fill the main (only sail up) put everyone on the rail and sailed 
off. So we headed to the bar and got caught in current that flows in the 
Bremerton marina on first attempt, second try made it look easy.


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus (for sale) Lf38 
Rebecca Leah LF39 ___

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Stus-List Lessons learned from plastic welding water tank

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
First, I want to thank everyone here for their help - it really gave me a jump 
start on fixing my water tank.  

Here's what I found:
   
   - The tank is definitely made of LDPE (low density polyethelene).  HDPE does 
NOT stick to it, so don't even begin to think that all polyethelene is the 
same.  You can weld LDPE to HDPE, but not HDPE to LDPE. 

   - Welding is the preferred method for fixing by comparison to epoxies 
designed to fix polyethelene.
   - I used a hot air blower welder from Harbor Freight Tools - it cost about 
$50.  In hindsight, I probably could have done a better job with one of their 
soldering iron type that heats a hot disk end.  Getting smooth melting of the 
rod into the tank plastic is very important, and I kept having issues with the 
plastic from the rods bubbling.  In the end, I took a torch, heated up an old 
putty knife, and using that to smooth the edges.  I'm sure this is partly 
because I don't get along particularly well with welding and soldering.  It's 
the one task I have to teach myself to do better.  Ideally, I think I would 
have used the type of welder that feeds strips/rods through the tip of the 
welder, but that one was not immediately available. 

   - You want to weld the plastic with strips, not rods.  Strips are easier to 
work with.  If you can't find LDPE strips online, keep looking around the house 
for #4 recycleable plastic.  The only place I found it around our house was the 
snap-on tops to Tupperware type containers.  If you are buying strips, buy more 
than you think you'll need.  I bought 5' of strips, and I could easily have 
used 10 to lay on the thickness I wanted.
   - Practice welding HDPE, say with a cracked old paint bucket or something.  
HDPE is much easier to find around the house, as laundry detergent bottles, and 
just about every other piece of recyclable plastic (except clear bottles) is 
made from it.  Once you learn how to weld with HDPE, the process with LDPE is 
the same, and it will go much more smoothly.
   - Clean the tank with MEK.   I did it both before and after the 
grinding/sanding.
   - Using a dremel, grind out a groove (this is actually pretty important, so 
don't skip this step).  Even if you go through the tank, don't worry, you can 
build it up again with the strips.
   - Find a YouTube video or two to watch the process.
   - Sand the area with 80 grit sandpaper.
   - Drill a small hole at the ends of the cracks to keep the cracks from 
progressing
   - At the suggestion of another poster, I layed in a layer of stainless mesh 
over the crack thinking that if it cracked once, it might do so again, so 
reinforcing the area would be a good idea.  Time will tell.
   - Be sure to water test it before putting it back in the boat. 


Hoping this set of step-by-step instruction helps, Bruce Whitmore1994 C&C 37/40+
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Thank you Josh. I will look into a manual windlass (currently I'M the manual 
windlass!). 
Where on the foredeck should any windlass be placed? 
Richard 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 11:36 AM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List wrote:   My suggestion is to go with a manual 
windlass.  It will save a considerable amount of money and problems over the 
years to come.  Getting power to the windlass will require heavy gage wiring to 
carry the requisite current or instead a dedicated battery in/near the anchor 
locker.  Corrosion on the terminals, wires and motor internals regularly 
plagues electric windlasses.
They are hard to find but ebay occasionally has AnchorMan manual windlasses for 
about $250.  Even less common is the Muir 500 manual for about $500.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Aug 5, 2017 9:53 AM, "Richard Walter via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Ahoy! 
Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In 
particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is 
prominent in the foredeck? 
Thank you, Richards/v INDIGO Watch Hill 
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stumurray

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___

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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

Wow! I'd better budget a LNG time to raise the anchor! 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 1:03 PM, Richard Walter wrote:   
Thank you Josh. I will look into a manual windlass (currently I'M the manual 
windlass!). 
Where on the foredeck should any windlass be placed? 
Richard 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 11:36 AM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List wrote:   My suggestion is to go with a manual 
windlass.  It will save a considerable amount of money and problems over the 
years to come.  Getting power to the windlass will require heavy gage wiring to 
carry the requisite current or instead a dedicated battery in/near the anchor 
locker.  Corrosion on the terminals, wires and motor internals regularly 
plagues electric windlasses.
They are hard to find but ebay occasionally has AnchorMan manual windlasses for 
about $250.  Even less common is the Muir 500 manual for about $500.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Aug 5, 2017 9:53 AM, "Richard Walter via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Ahoy! 
Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In 
particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is 
prominent in the foredeck? 
Thank you, Richards/v INDIGO Watch Hill 
__ _

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/ 
stumurray

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___

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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

This??

http://www.lofrans.com/product/4-Lofrans-horizontal-anchor-windlass/5015-royal
 

On Saturday, August 5, 2017 1:18 PM, Richard Walter via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Wow! I'd better budget a LNG time to raise the anchor! 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 1:03 PM, Richard Walter wrote:   
Thank you Josh. I will look into a manual windlass (currently I'M the manual 
windlass!). 
Where on the foredeck should any windlass be placed? 
Richard 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 11:36 AM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List wrote:   My suggestion is to go with a manual 
windlass.  It will save a considerable amount of money and problems over the 
years to come.  Getting power to the windlass will require heavy gage wiring to 
carry the requisite current or instead a dedicated battery in/near the anchor 
locker.  Corrosion on the terminals, wires and motor internals regularly 
plagues electric windlasses.
They are hard to find but ebay occasionally has AnchorMan manual windlasses for 
about $250.  Even less common is the Muir 500 manual for about $500.
Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Aug 5, 2017 9:53 AM, "Richard Walter via CnC-List"  
wrote:

Ahoy! 
Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In 
particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is 
prominent in the foredeck? 
Thank you, Richards/v INDIGO Watch Hill 
__ _

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/ 
stumurray

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___

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Stus-List instruments

[patricia barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a B & G Harrier 6 boat speed and log cockpit instrument 
surplus to their needs which I could purchase. I know that this is an old 
instrument but for the amount of use it gets on my boat, I would like to 
continue with this model. I know that the transducer is OK because the cabin 
monitor gives a speed reading.The countdown function still operates on the 
cockpit bulkhead. Or are there any suggestions for a transducer compatible 
alternative, or at least with a transducer that fits the same thru hull. Just 
hoping.
Harold
Celtic Spirit
C & C 35-3
Hamilton, ON. ___

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Re: Stus-List 35 - 3; hauling costs?

[Neil E. Andersen via CnC-List]

Had my C&C32 trucked from MD to Syracuse for $2,500 last fall.  Trick is to 
work with the trucker and get on a dead head run (return trip).  That way the 
trucker is paid for both directions and will typically give you a good break on 
the price.

 

Neil

Foxfire 1982 C&C32

(going back to MD)

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bushmark4--- 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 6:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3; hauliiing costs?

 

I agree its not a deal breaker...I had my 37 trucked from Newburyport 
Massachusetts to Louisville, KY about 3 years ago...cost was about $3700.00 
more or less

 

Richard

s/v Bushmark4; C&C 37 CB; Ohio River Mile 584.4

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Leslie Paal 
Sent: Sat, Aug 5, 2017 1:37 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

I have shipped a C&C25 from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase. (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.) Leslie.  On Tue, 
8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote: Subject: 
Stus-List 35 - 3 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM Hello All, I have 
owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for about 25 years. I have raced and cruised with her 
extensively. She is one of the winning-est boats in the Middle Atlantic states. 
18 trophies in the Around Long Island Regatta, multiple club championships. 
Multiple NJ offshore racing conference firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in 
C&C worlds. This summer, in two major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and 1 2nd 
(by 5 seconds!). A safe, dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I am moving to 
California and it is too expensive to ship it, so it is for sale.IMHO, one of 
the nicest 35-3 available. Needs nothing and ready to sail away. Still actively 
being used. Extensive upgrades. Please email for pictures and complete info. 
Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again ___ 
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generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset 
our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

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Stus-List Universal heat exchanger zinc issue

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Crap!  Easy job went bad but yielded good result. 

Changing the heat exchanger pencil zinc on my Universal 25XPB is usually a 5-10 
minute job every couple months. This time the zinc stuck in the nipple. Access 
is difficult with only 3 inches so their is no room to tap with "special tool 
alpha (hammer).  Decided to pull the end cap and see if I could grab it and 
pull it out with pliers. Nope!  None of it sticking up.

While the end cap was off I thought it would be a good idea to look at the 
tubes. Mirror on a stick showed a couple pieces of zinc and a couple tubes 
scaled up. Double crap!

Compass Marine has a page documenting pieces of zincs plugging Westerbeke and 
Universal exchangers. Worth a look. 

Spent an hour or so with a pick chipping scale. Access is bad with a scupper 
hose and bulkhead limiting room. Managed to remove most of the scale and flush 
the scale and zinc pieces out. Not totally clean but much better. Last trip out 
the engine was running about 10 F hot. The scale may have contributed. 

So now back to the original problem, the zinc piece stuck in the nipple. 
Couldn't get any leverage to push or tap it out. I finally took the zinc cap 
(the plug that the zinc screws into) and put a pan head screw in it. Managed to 
catch a couple threads, tightened it and used the screw to force the zinc piece 
up into the exchanger. Removed it, reinstalled end caps and new zinc. Engine 
runs on temp now. 

Beer time!

Probably need to acid clean the exchanger when the boat gets back to home slip 
in a couple months. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

No this:
http://slspares.co.uk/pdf/Website%20Manuals/Instruction%20Manuals/Anchorman%20Manual.pdf

I have one but still keep a lookout for others.  I'll try to remember to
send you a link next time I see one for sail.

There are 2 different types of windlass.  Vertical and Horizontal.  It is a
considerable amount of space and a high profile when installing a
horizontal shaft windlass.  Many of the other listers have done vertical
installations.  Most if not all were electric.  Lots of discussions, search
the list.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 5, 2017 1:24 PM, "Richard Walter via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> This??
>
> http://www.lofrans.com/product/4-Lofrans-horizontal-
> anchor-windlass/5015-royal
>
>
> On Saturday, August 5, 2017 1:18 PM, Richard Walter via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Wow! I'd better budget a LNG time to raise the anchor!
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 1:03 PM, Richard Walter
>  wrote:
> Thank you Josh. I will look into a manual windlass (currently I'M the
> manual windlass!).
>
> Where on the foredeck should any windlass be placed?
>
> Richard
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 11:36 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> My suggestion is to go with a manual windlass.  It will save a
> considerable amount of money and problems over the years to come.  Getting
> power to the windlass will require heavy gage wiring to carry the requisite
> current or instead a dedicated battery in/near the anchor locker.
> Corrosion on the terminals, wires and motor internals regularly plagues
> electric windlasses.
>
> They are hard to find but ebay occasionally has AnchorMan manual
> windlasses for about $250.  Even less common is the Muir 500 manual for
> about $500.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Aug 5, 2017 9:53 AM, "Richard Walter via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Ahoy!
>
> Any suggestions for adding a power windlass for our 1978 36-foot? In
> particular, what is good placement considering the anchor locker cover is
> prominent in the foredeck?
>
> Thank you,
> Richard
> s/v INDIGO
> Watch Hill
>
> __ _
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/
> stumurray 
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List instruments

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Harold,

 

I may have what you need.  I removed a complete B&G system from my boat two
years ago.  I still have all the pieces.  Contact me off list and we can
discuss exactly what you need.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"

Hampton VA



 

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of patricia
barkley-higginbottom via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 13:57
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: patricia barkley-higginbottom 
Subject: Stus-List instruments

 

Does anyone have a B & G Harrier 6 boat speed and log cockpit instrument
surplus to their needs which I could purchase. I know that this is an old
instrument but for the amount of use it gets on my boat, I would like to
continue with this model. I know that the transducer is OK because the cabin
monitor gives a speed reading.The countdown function still operates on the
cockpit bulkhead. Or are there any suggestions for a transducer compatible
alternative, or at least with a transducer that fits the same thru hull.
Just hoping.

Harold

Celtic Spirit

C & C 35-3

Hamilton, ON. 

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Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...

[David via CnC-List]

So our toilet is getting this lime like crust (sorry) remaining even after 
vigorous scrubing.   Bleach too aggresive.   Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance from very scenic Great Harbour (Woods Hole).


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
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Stus-List B&G Network Pilot display needed.

[Brian Fry via CnC-List]

My Pilot display is malfunctioning. The course number continuously scrolls
down like the <1 button is stuck. None of the other buttons will work. This
leaves the ACP in standby.
Does anyone have a unit they have removed that still works?

Can I use another model to replace since this model is no longer made?

Can I just hookup the ACP 2 to my Furuno Chartplotter instead and use that
to control the Autopilot?


S/V La Neige
1993 C&C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

Vinegar

Neil Andersen
20691 Jamieson Rd
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List  on behalf of David via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 7:23:10 PM
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Subject: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...

So our toilet is getting this lime like crust (sorry) remaining even after 
vigorous scrubing.   Bleach too aggresive.   Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance from very scenic Great Harbour (Woods Hole).


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
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Re: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I little CLR maybe


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message From: David via CnC-List 
 Date: 8/5/17  7:23 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: CNC CNC 
 Cc: David  Subject: Stus-List 
Toilet Meanderings... 

So our toilet is getting this lime like crust (sorry) remaining even after 
vigorous scrubing.   Bleach too aggresive.   Any suggestions?



Thanks in advance from very scenic Great Harbour (Woods Hole).  







Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone

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Re: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...

[coltrek via CnC-List]

Barnacle buster,  I think.  Practical Sailor just made recommendations this 
month 


Regards,
Bill

 Original message 
From: Neil Andersen via CnC-List  
Date: 8/5/17  19:56  (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, CNC CNC  
Cc: Neil Andersen  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings... 






Vinegar




Neil Andersen

20691 Jamieson Rd

Rock Hall, MD 21661



From: CnC-List  on behalf of David via CnC-List 


Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 7:23:10 PM

To: CNC CNC

Cc: David

Subject: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...
 


So our toilet is getting this lime like crust (sorry) remaining even after 
vigorous scrubing.   Bleach too aggresive.   Any suggestions?



Thanks in advance from very scenic Great Harbour (Woods Hole).  







Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


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Re: Stus-List windlass for our 1978 36-foot?

[Richard Walter via CnC-List]

So will a vertical manual windlass raise an anchor faster than the horizontal? 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Sat, Aug 5, 2017 at 4:55 PM, Josh Muckley via 
CnC-List wrote:   
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 31

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Muriatic acid.  But be careful.  Vinegar works too, but  the acid is better.

Let it sit until it stops fizzing, then flush to the joker valve and let it  do 
its stuff there too.  So long as there is no exposed metal anywhere along the 
way, it's safe.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Aug 5, 2017, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2017 23:23:10 +
> From: David 
> To: CNC CNC 
> Subject: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...
> Message-ID:
>
> 
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> So our toilet is getting this lime like crust (sorry) remaining even after 
> vigorous scrubing.   Bleach too aggresive.   Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks in advance from very scenic Great Harbour (Woods Hole).
> 
> 
> Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 31

[Neil Andersen via CnC-List]

The nice thing about vinegar is it is a milder acid.  You can give it a shot 
and if it doesn't work go stronger.

Neil Andersen
1982 C&C 32
Rock Hall, MD 21661

From: CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Buscaglia via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, August 5, 2017 9:47:49 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia
Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 31

Muriatic acid.  But be careful.  Vinegar works too, but  the acid is better.

Let it sit until it stops fizzing, then flush to the joker valve and let it  do 
its stuff there too.  So long as there is no exposed metal anywhere along the 
way, it's safe.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


On Aug 5, 2017, at 4:24 PM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2017 23:23:10 +
From: David mailto:davidrisc...@msn.com>>
To: CNC CNC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...
Message-ID:
   
mailto:bn6pr16mb000347485aa5535c51c8ccbbda...@bn6pr16mb0003.namprd16.prod.outlook.com>>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

So our toilet is getting this lime like crust (sorry) remaining even after 
vigorous scrubing.   Bleach too aggresive.   Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance from very scenic Great Harbour (Woods Hole).


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 31

[Peter Fell via CnC-List]

Don't forget there is regular vinegar, like you put on your fries, and also
Cleaning Vinegar ... twice as strong.

On Aug 5, 2017 6:51 PM, "Neil Andersen via CnC-List" 
wrote:

The nice thing about vinegar is it is a milder acid.  You can give it a
shot and if it doesn't work go stronger.

Neil Andersen
1982 C&C 32
Rock Hall, MD 21661
--
*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Tom Buscaglia
via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Saturday, August 5, 2017 9:47:49 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Tom Buscaglia
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 139, Issue 31

Muriatic acid.  But be careful.  Vinegar works too, but  the acid is better.

Let it sit until it stops fizzing, then flush to the joker valve and let it
 do its stuff there too.  So long as there is no exposed metal anywhere
along the way, it's safe.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200 <(206)%20463-9200>
C 305.409.3660 <(305)%20409-3660>


On Aug 5, 2017, at 4:24 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2017 23:23:10 +
From: David 
To: CNC CNC 
Subject: Stus-List Toilet Meanderings...
Message-ID:
   

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

So our toilet is getting this lime like crust (sorry) remaining even after
vigorous scrubing.   Bleach too aggresive.   Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance from very scenic Great Harbour (Woods Hole).


Sent from my Verizon 4G LTE smartphone


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!