Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD
Did you watch the pump each time the water stopped? I think your belt may be slipping when you throttle up. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sun, Jun 4, 2017, 1:08 AM DON JONSSON via CnC-List wrote: > Hello > > Today on the first trip out for the weekend on the boat I got about 5 > minutes out and the engine over heated. Spent the next 3 hours trying to > figure it out before towing the boat back in with the dinghy. Another 2 > hours at the dock and still no luck. Perhaps someone can help. > > First it is a Yanmar 3GMD with is a raw water cooled engine. Here is what > was tried. > > 1. When the alarm went checked that indeed no water pumping was the issue > and turned the engine off and dropped an anchor. > > 2. Checked from the through hull to strainer and it was fine, no blockage. > > 3. Checked downstream of the pump and found no water. Thought, "that was > easy". Not. Took the pump off and the bushing on the impeller had given > up and the impeller wasn't spinning. It is only a year old, but whatever, > put a new one in. Now water was coming out of the pump but still not going > through the engine. Wondered whether back pressure from a plug downstream > had caused the impeller to fail. > > 4. Systematically went through every location that you can check all the > way to the riser on the exhaust and everything was clear. The riser is > brand new and there are no blockages there. You could blow freely through > hoses and the engine. Water was coming but not enough water. > > 5. Tested the thermostat in hot water, it opened no problem. > > 6. Started at the beginning again and this time ran the engine a bit at > each spot. What we found was that the water would be fine until we rev'd up > the engine and which point the water would slow down and stop. When we > went down to an idle it would start again. This could be repeated over and > over again.Except immediately downstream of the water pump where there > was always water with pressure. > > 7. Took out the thermostat and tried this test down stream of it. Same > problem. We assumed in the case the water, or at least not all of it, > wouldn't even be going through the engine. > > 8. Flushed water forwards and backwards through the engine. No problem > and no debris. > > 9. Figure there must be air coming at the strainer and put in a new > gasket and checked for cracks. Same problem. > > Opinions are: > > 1. There is still a problem with air somewhere before or in the pump. But > where? And why no water. > > 2. At the T where water goes into the cylinder jacket there is something > wrong going on, but it is not easy to remove. > > 3. If it is a blockage in the engine then when there is no thermostat in > the engine these symptoms should not occur downstream of the thermostat, > but they do. > > 4. If it is in the engine, when the thermostat is in and the engine is > cold you should get water, but you don't. > > > Tomorrow we will start again, but if anyone has any ideas it would be > appreciated. > > Don Jonsson > Swan Song, C&C 34 > Victoria > > Sent from my iPad > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Advice for PYI shaft seal maintenance
The requisite compression is that which eliminates leakage. If your engine mounts are soft, the prop thrust can push the engine forward and spread the bellows and collar causing a leak...While in forward. The conventional wisdom is that the shaft should have dimples drilled for the grub screws. I don't like doing that since everytime I adjust the collar I put new drill dimples in the shaft. McMaster Carr has SS shaft collars which are relatively easy to install. These are used and recommended a a redundant holding device. They could also be used to hold the collar until the grub screws were set. As I recall PYI also suggests using a sharpie to mark the decompressed and compressed collar position. They also suggest that the bellows will need replaced every 5 years. I'm on my 6th season and I have no idea how many the PO had had. There is no indication of the rubber degrading, no cracks and still resilient. I've never had to readjust the compression and I don't release it during the winter... Then again I don't haul out but once a year for only 1 week. I'll soon be considering the dripless shaft seal by sailorsams.com Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jun 3, 2017 10:33 PM, "Eric Frank via CnC-List" wrote: > For winterizing the PYI shaft seal on Cat's Paw, it was recommended that I > loosen the SS collar on the prop shaft so the rubber bellows is not > compressed. I'm now trying to compress the bellows again before launching > - PYI recommends compressing it about 3/4 inch. It's difficult to compress > the bellows and tighten the set screws at the same time, given the limited > access to that area (under bilge and exhaust hoses). Any suggestions for > holding the bellows compressed temporarily while I tighten the set screws? > > Eric Frank > Cat’s Paw, C&C 35 MkII > Mattapoisett, MA > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD
I agree with Josh. I have seen this happen when your water pump drive belt is too slack; it will pump at low RPMs but not higher RPMs. Sometimes, during the idle winter season, the drive belt will develop a “set” and cause slippage. Tension your drive belt and try again. Mike Amirault C&C 33ii Lovely Cruise SMSC NS.___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access
Great idea. My boat has two pull out drawers underneath the settee that look like they might be original (teak that matches the rest of the boat) however, your solution makes much more sense. I'm adding this to my list :) Doug WelchCeltic Knot 33-2 c/b On Saturday, June 3, 2017 7:14 PM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote: Added some access hatches below deck - improved livability. pics below http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/05/port-side-settee-stowage-access.html Dave1985 33-2 Windstar___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD
Be careful not to over tighten the belt. I believe 1/2 in. deflection is called for. If too tight, you may ream out the slotted hole of the water pump pulley and round down the end of the shaft. I know as I had this happen to a newly rebuilt pump. Ed Levert C&C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 8:43 AM mike amirault via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I agree with Josh. I have seen this happen when your water pump drive belt > is too slack; it will pump at low RPMs but not higher RPMs. > Sometimes, during the idle winter season, the drive belt will develop a > “set” and cause slippage. > Tension your drive belt and try again. > > Mike Amirault > C&C 33ii Lovely Cruise > SMSC NS. > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD
The bushing on the impeller doesn't fail. There is a key in the impeller bushing, that fits over a pin or set screw that keeps the impeller in place. It should only turn when the pulley turns. Hold the impeller while turning the pulley. If it turns, the pin is missing. Also check the tension on the belt. Have you run water through the strainer? Remove the strainer, and open the through hull valve. A lot of water should flow through. Is there something blocking the through hull from the outside? Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR On Sat, Jun 3, 2017 at 10:07 PM, DON JONSSON via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello > > Today on the first trip out for the weekend on the boat I got about 5 > minutes out and the engine over heated. Spent the next 3 hours trying to > figure it out before towing the boat back in with the dinghy. Another 2 > hours at the dock and still no luck. Perhaps someone can help. > > First it is a Yanmar 3GMD with is a raw water cooled engine. Here is what > was tried. > > 1. When the alarm went checked that indeed no water pumping was the issue > and turned the engine off and dropped an anchor. > > 2. Checked from the through hull to strainer and it was fine, no blockage. > > 3. Checked downstream of the pump and found no water. Thought, "that was > easy". Not. Took the pump off and the bushing on the impeller had given > up and the impeller wasn't spinning. It is only a year old, but whatever, > put a new one in. Now water was coming out of the pump but still not going > through the engine. Wondered whether back pressure from a plug downstream > had caused the impeller to fail. > > 4. Systematically went through every location that you can check all the > way to the riser on the exhaust and everything was clear. The riser is > brand new and there are no blockages there. You could blow freely through > hoses and the engine. Water was coming but not enough water. > > 5. Tested the thermostat in hot water, it opened no problem. > > 6. Started at the beginning again and this time ran the engine a bit at > each spot. What we found was that the water would be fine until we rev'd up > the engine and which point the water would slow down and stop. When we > went down to an idle it would start again. This could be repeated over and > over again.Except immediately downstream of the water pump where there > was always water with pressure. > > 7. Took out the thermostat and tried this test down stream of it. Same > problem. We assumed in the case the water, or at least not all of it, > wouldn't even be going through the engine. > > 8. Flushed water forwards and backwards through the engine. No problem > and no debris. > > 9. Figure there must be air coming at the strainer and put in a new > gasket and checked for cracks. Same problem. > > Opinions are: > > 1. There is still a problem with air somewhere before or in the pump. But > where? And why no water. > > 2. At the T where water goes into the cylinder jacket there is something > wrong going on, but it is not easy to remove. > > 3. If it is a blockage in the engine then when there is no thermostat in > the engine these symptoms should not occur downstream of the thermostat, > but they do. > > 4. If it is in the engine, when the thermostat is in and the engine is > cold you should get water, but you don't. > > > Tomorrow we will start again, but if anyone has any ideas it would be > appreciated. > > Don Jonsson > Swan Song, C&C 34 > Victoria > > Sent from my iPad > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www. > paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN > 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m= > xoZP1VHfuPv53j8TW2c2S4ntXs4BPT274OHC084DI3s&s= > 8ZFVcQUgwJce9SMyOVBmwiBc1sjzYNJnf5PL8Zs7nBo&e= > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > -- Alan Bergen 35 Mk III Thirsty Rose City YC Portland, OR ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD
Fair enough. Either way you need to watch the pump pulley to make sure its turning. On Jun 4, 2017 11:11 AM, "Edward Levert via CnC-List" wrote: > Be careful not to over tighten the belt. I believe 1/2 in. deflection is > called for. If too tight, you may ream out the slotted hole of the water > pump pulley and round down the end of the shaft. I know as I had this > happen to a newly rebuilt pump. > > Ed Levert > C&C 34 > Briar Patch > New Orleans > > > On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 8:43 AM mike amirault via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I agree with Josh. I have seen this happen when your water pump drive >> belt is too slack; it will pump at low RPMs but not higher RPMs. >> Sometimes, during the idle winter season, the drive belt will develop a >> “set” and cause slippage. >> Tension your drive belt and try again. >> >> Mike Amirault >> C&C 33ii Lovely Cruise >> SMSC NS. >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD
On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 8:42 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I agree with Josh. I have seen this happen when your water pump drive belt > is too slack; it will pump at low RPMs but not higher RPMs. Happens with my Universal 25XPB. My test is to try to turn pulley by hand (with engine off, of course). If it slips inside the belt, I usually observe overheating at higher RPM. Dennis C. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access
Nice Dave, On my 1987 33 mk II the water tank is port side under this sette and it is original, so the starboard side is storage and more accessible. This must have an impact in weight distribution? How many 33 mk II owners have their tank on the starboard side? Bruno lachance Bécassine, 1987 33mkii New-Richmond, Qc. Envoyé de mon iPad Le 4 juin 2017 à 10:06, Doug Welch via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> a écrit : Great idea. My boat has two pull out drawers underneath the settee that look like they might be original (teak that matches the rest of the boat) however, your solution makes much more sense. I'm adding this to my list :) Doug Welch Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b On Saturday, June 3, 2017 7:14 PM, Dave S via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote: Added some access hatches below deck - improved livability. pics below http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/05/port-side-settee-stowage-access.html Dave 1985 33-2 Windstar ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD
Thanks for the comments, but We have had the pump off a couple of times. The belt was tightened when we put it back on. There has always been water with pressure coming out of the pump, the higher the revs the more water. Whether enough pressure is hard to tell. In terms of the old impeller, not sure if bushing is the right word, but the pin inside the impeller could spin freely and the impeller would not turn. The rubber had become disconnected from the inner spindle. The question is whether this was a cause or a consequence. We think a consequence. Today we will once more systematically go through from start to finish, carefully recording exactly the results of each test. We are thinking that because all simple test (blowing, running water from a hose) through all parts of the engine show no blockage, that perhaps there isn't one. That, and that removing the thermostat doesn't change the behaviour. That only leaves the system up to and including the pump - it doesn't have enough pressure. But perhaps we are wrong there. When the engine fills with water perhaps something changes. But if it won't go through the bypass when the thermostat is removed, what? Also the piece where the water goes into the cylinder jacket, where water goes into the engine and circulates through to come out the thermostat. Has anyone ever had that off, and is it anything more than a T and a pipe? Is there something else in there which pressure can impact? This is after the pump and before water goes into the engine or to the bypass. All ideas or things to test welcome. We will closely watch the belt to the pump. Could be time to get the mechanic, but last time it cost me $1500 for them to finally figure out what the $20 problem was. Don Sent from my iPad On Jun 3, 2017, at 10:07 PM, DON JONSSON wrote: Hello Today on the first trip out for the weekend on the boat I got about 5 minutes out and the engine over heated. Spent the next 3 hours trying to figure it out before towing the boat back in with the dinghy. Another 2 hours at the dock and still no luck. Perhaps someone can help. First it is a Yanmar 3GMD with is a raw water cooled engine. Here is what was tried. 1. When the alarm went checked that indeed no water pumping was the issue and turned the engine off and dropped an anchor. 2. Checked from the through hull to strainer and it was fine, no blockage. 3. Checked downstream of the pump and found no water. Thought, "that was easy". Not. Took the pump off and the bushing on the impeller had given up and the impeller wasn't spinning. It is only a year old, but whatever, put a new one in. Now water was coming out of the pump but still not going through the engine. Wondered whether back pressure from a plug downstream had caused the impeller to fail. 4. Systematically went through every location that you can check all the way to the riser on the exhaust and everything was clear. The riser is brand new and there are no blockages there. You could blow freely through hoses and the engine. Water was coming but not enough water. 5. Tested the thermostat in hot water, it opened no problem. 6. Started at the beginning again and this time ran the engine a bit at each spot. What we found was that the water would be fine until we rev'd up the engine and which point the water would slow down and stop. When we went down to an idle it would start again. This could be repeated over and over again. Except immediately downstream of the water pump where there was always water with pressure. 7. Took out the thermostat and tried this test down stream of it. Same problem. We assumed in the case the water, or at least not all of it, wouldn't even be going through the engine. 8. Flushed water forwards and backwards through the engine. No problem and no debris. 9. Figure there must be air coming at the strainer and put in a new gasket and checked for cracks. Same problem. Opinions are: 1. There is still a problem with air somewhere before or in the pump. But where? And why no water. 2. At the T where water goes into the cylinder jacket there is something wrong going on, but it is not easy to remove. 3. If it is a blockage in the engine then when there is no thermostat in the engine these symptoms should not occur downstream of the thermostat, but they do. 4. If it is in the engine, when the thermostat is in and the engine is cold you should get water, but you don't. Tomorrow we will start again, but if anyone has any ideas it would be appreciated. Don Jonsson Swan Song, C&C 34 Victoria Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Boom Rigging - now topping lift
Thoughts on boom topping lift. Like others, Touche' has a boom topping lift. It is the original wire with swage eyes on both ends. It simply runs to the masthead and terminates there. I just never built up the initiative to change it to Dyneema or equivalent. Touche' has a Garhauer rigid boom vang. There is extra lift in the vang for raising the boom while sailing. However, I still like the topping lift for stabilizing the boom when flaking the main and whenever the mainsail is not hoisted. I added a purchase with a carabiner at the lower end. When sailing, I ALWAYS detach the topping lift and carry it forward to the base of the mast. The purchase is used both to adjust the boom height (when mainsail is not hoisted) and to tension the lift when attached to the mast. Here is a picture: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsZ2ZKSGNuOThHTGs The purchase uses Harken 244 and 235 blocks. Never, ever sail with the main hoisted and a wire topping lift. The wire will abrade the stitching on the leech and you might eject a batten. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Intriguing challenge
Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a spring pin slide. I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. This is the challenge. Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in order to slide it off. Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher comfort level with control of tool. Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to drill a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, etc. Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new track. Seems dumb. Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it went. A, the joy of boat ownership. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access
Mine is on the starboard side. As mentioned already by other listers, storage on the port side is a pain since I have to list off cushions and fold out the extra bed. Mike Atacama 33ii Toronto Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network. Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Engine water cooling woes on Yanmar 3GMD
Does your through hull have an external strainer? That can get covered in marine growth causing a flow restriction at higher RPMs. Cheers, Al SV Elendil, 37/40+ ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Engine cooling woes fixed
OK, this is a bit embarrassing. But here are the results. The original problem was the impeller breaking. In diagnosing that we opened the strainer and then screwed the lid back down. Reused this gasket. It leaked air but we didn't know that. The top is above the water line. We thought the problem caused the impeller to break, not that it was the problem since on restart we couldn't get water. Did all the tests and finally realized that more pressure less water. Thought maybe air in the pump. So the last thing we did yesterday was go to Canadian Tire and get some gasket material. We put on a new gasket and tested the engine. No water. Ok, here is the embarrassing bit. We closed the thru hull when we did the gasket and forgot to open it when we did the test. By this time we were done, turned the engine off and went home. Today when we were starting I noticed the thru hull wasn't opened. Opened it and started the engine and the problem disappeared. So it was one problem that morphed into another followed ultimately by an error. Thanks to all for their comments. Don Jonsson Victoria, BC Sent from my iPad ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
Is possible to drill from the top into the pin that would accommodate a self-tapping screw. The screw would allow you to lift the pin. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 10:28 AM To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Subject: Stus-List Intriguing challenge Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a spring pin slide. I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. This is the challenge. Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in order to slide it off. Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher comfort level with control of tool. Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to drill a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, etc. Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new track. Seems dumb. Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it went. A, the joy of boat ownership. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small bolt or dowel could be used? Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue. Go have a couple of barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of track? At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track to slide back to remove. Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better. Good Luck, randy Tamanawas 29-II Hood River, OR From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List Sent: Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM To: CnClist Cc: Dennis C. Subject: Stus-List Intriguing challenge Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a spring pin slide. I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. This is the challenge. Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in order to slide it off. Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher comfort level with control of tool. Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to drill a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, etc. Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new track. Seems dumb. Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it went. A, the joy of boat ownership. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
Question just motored from Newport ri to Portland Maine and noted the oil dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24 hours was 1/2 way on the dip stick. On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. Is this normal Also I get a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at 180. Oil pressure at 50-55 Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works Thanks Peter Goonie island C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
That's essentially my Option 1. Once I drill hole, self tapper, regular tap, etc. may all work. Key is to keep pin from rotating. Dennis C. On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:32 PM, Larry via CnC-List wrote: > Is possible to drill from the top into the pin that would accommodate a > self-tapping screw. The screw would allow you to lift the pin. > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis > C. via CnC-List > *Sent:* Sunday, June 04, 2017 10:28 AM > *To:* CnClist > *Cc:* Dennis C. > *Subject:* Stus-List Intriguing challenge > > > > Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled > knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: > > > > https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA > > > > Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a > spring pin slide. > > > > I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. > This is the challenge. > > > > Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in > hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in > order to slide it off. > > > > Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, > RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they > have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the > deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher > comfort level with control of tool. > > > > Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole > from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to drill > a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. > > > > Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove > spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, > etc. > > > > Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new track. > Seems dumb. > > > > Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks > since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it > went. > > > > A, the joy of boat ownership. :) > > > > Dennis C. > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > Mandeville, LA > > > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
Good idea, but with my luck and shaky hands, I'd probably glue the slide to the track. :) At the least, I'd get glue in the spring so it wouldn't lift. Dennis C. On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:35 PM, randy via CnC-List wrote: > Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small bolt > or dowel could be used? Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat > adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue. Go have a couple of > barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious > wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of > track? At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track > to slide back to remove. > > > > Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better. Good Luck, > > randy > > Tamanawas > > 29-II > > Hood River, OR > > > > *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis > C. via CnC-List > *Sent:* Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM > *To:* CnClist > *Cc:* Dennis C. > *Subject:* Stus-List Intriguing challenge > > > > Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled > knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: > > > > https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA > > > > Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a > spring pin slide. > > > > I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. > This is the challenge. > > > > Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in > hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in > order to slide it off. > > > > Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, > RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they > have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the > deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher > comfort level with control of tool. > > > > Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole > from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to drill > a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. > > > > Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove > spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, > etc. > > > > Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new track. > Seems dumb. > > > > Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks > since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it > went. > > > > A, the joy of boat ownership. :) > > > > Dennis C. > > Touche' 35-1 #83 > > Mandeville, LA > > > > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Engine cooling woes fixed
Sucks when that happens... Thanks for the update. On Jun 4, 2017 2:22 PM, "DON JONSSON via CnC-List" wrote: > OK, this is a bit embarrassing. But here are the results. > > The original problem was the impeller breaking. In diagnosing that we > opened the strainer and then screwed the lid back down. Reused this > gasket. It leaked air but we didn't know that. The top is above the water > line. We thought the problem caused the impeller to break, not that it was > the problem since on restart we couldn't get water. > > Did all the tests and finally realized that more pressure less water. > Thought maybe air in the pump. > > So the last thing we did yesterday was go to Canadian Tire and get some > gasket material. We put on a new gasket and tested the engine. No water. > > Ok, here is the embarrassing bit. We closed the thru hull when we did the > gasket and forgot to open it when we did the test. By this time we were > done, turned the engine off and went home. > > Today when we were starting I noticed the thru hull wasn't opened. Opened > it and started the engine and the problem disappeared. > > So it was one problem that morphed into another followed ultimately by an > error. > > Thanks to all for their comments. > > Don Jonsson > Victoria, BC > > Sent from my iPad > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole works out through it. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 4 June 2017 at 11:50, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > Good idea, but with my luck and shaky hands, I'd probably glue the slide > to the track. :) At the least, I'd get glue in the spring so it wouldn't > lift. > > Dennis C. > > On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:35 PM, randy via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small bolt >> or dowel could be used? Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat >> adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue. Go have a couple of >> barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious >> wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of >> track? At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track >> to slide back to remove. >> >> >> >> Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better. Good Luck, >> >> randy >> >> Tamanawas >> >> 29-II >> >> Hood River, OR >> >> >> >> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis >> C. via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM >> *To:* CnClist >> *Cc:* Dennis C. >> *Subject:* Stus-List Intriguing challenge >> >> >> >> Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled >> knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: >> >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA >> >> >> >> Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a >> spring pin slide. >> >> >> >> I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. >> This is the challenge. >> >> >> >> Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in >> hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in >> order to slide it off. >> >> >> >> Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, >> RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they >> have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the >> deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher >> comfort level with control of tool. >> >> >> >> Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole >> from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to drill >> a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. >> >> >> >> Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove >> spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, >> etc. >> >> >> >> Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new >> track. Seems dumb. >> >> >> >> Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks >> since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it >> went. >> >> >> >> A, the joy of boat ownership. :) >> >> >> >> Dennis C. >> >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> >> Mandeville, LA >> >> >> >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Advice for PYI shaft seal maintenance
A regular zinc donut works well as a retainer, no need for fancy. It also provides insurance against the shaft sliding out backwards if the coupler and everything else lets go. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 4 June 2017 at 03:22, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: > The requisite compression is that which eliminates leakage. If your > engine mounts are soft, the prop thrust can push the engine forward and > spread the bellows and collar causing a leak...While in forward. The > conventional wisdom is that the shaft should have dimples drilled for the > grub screws. I don't like doing that since everytime I adjust the collar I > put new drill dimples in the shaft. > > McMaster Carr has SS shaft collars which are relatively easy to install. > These are used and recommended a a redundant holding device. They could > also be used to hold the collar until the grub screws were set. > > As I recall PYI also suggests using a sharpie to mark the decompressed and > compressed collar position. They also suggest that the bellows will need > replaced every 5 years. I'm on my 6th season and I have no idea how many > the PO had had. There is no indication of the rubber degrading, no cracks > and still resilient. I've never had to readjust the compression and I > don't release it during the winter... Then again I don't haul out but once > a year for only 1 week. I'll soon be considering the dripless shaft seal > by sailorsams.com > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > On Jun 3, 2017 10:33 PM, "Eric Frank via CnC-List" > wrote: > >> For winterizing the PYI shaft seal on Cat's Paw, it was recommended that >> I loosen the SS collar on the prop shaft so the rubber bellows is not >> compressed. I'm now trying to compress the bellows again before launching >> - PYI recommends compressing it about 3/4 inch. It's difficult to compress >> the bellows and tighten the set screws at the same time, given the limited >> access to that area (under bilge and exhaust hoses). Any suggestions for >> holding the bellows compressed temporarily while I tighten the set screws? >> >> Eric Frank >> Cat’s Paw, C&C 35 MkII >> Mattapoisett, MA >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
YES. Bore the slide hole oversize vs the pin, the track is protected by the pin. Extract the pin. Dave. Sent from my iPad > On Jun 4, 2017, at 5:46 PM, Jim Watts wrote: > > I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole works > out through it. > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > >> On 4 June 2017 at 11:50, Dennis C. via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Good idea, but with my luck and shaky hands, I'd probably glue the slide to >> the track. :) At the least, I'd get glue in the spring so it wouldn't lift. >> >> Dennis C. >> >>> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:35 PM, randy via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small bolt >>> or dowel could be used? Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat >>> adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue. Go have a couple of >>> barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious >>> wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of track? >>> At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track to >>> slide back to remove. >>> >>> >>> >>> Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better. Good Luck, >>> >>> randy >>> >>> Tamanawas >>> >>> 29-II >>> >>> Hood River, OR >>> >>> >>> >>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis >>> C. via CnC-List >>> Sent: Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM >>> To: CnClist >>> Cc: Dennis C. >>> Subject: Stus-List Intriguing challenge >>> >>> >>> >>> Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled >>> knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: >>> >>> >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA >>> >>> >>> >>> Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a >>> spring pin slide. >>> >>> >>> >>> I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. >>> This is the challenge. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in >>> hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in >>> order to slide it off. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, >>> RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they >>> have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the >>> deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher >>> comfort level with control of tool. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole >>> from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to drill >>> a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove spring >>> and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, etc. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new track. >>> Seems dumb. >>> >>> >>> >>> Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks >>> since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it >>> went. >>> >>> >>> >>> A, the joy of boat ownership. :) >>> >>> >>> >>> Dennis C. >>> >>> Touche' 35-1 #83 >>> >>> Mandeville, LA >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >>> >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
Yes. That's my Option 4. I'm leaning that way. Dennis C. Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2017, at 4:46 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List > wrote: > > I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole works > out through it. > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > >> On 4 June 2017 at 11:50, Dennis C. via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Good idea, but with my luck and shaky hands, I'd probably glue the slide to >> the track. :) At the least, I'd get glue in the spring so it wouldn't lift. >> >> Dennis C. >> >>> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:35 PM, randy via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small bolt >>> or dowel could be used? Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat >>> adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue. Go have a couple of >>> barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious >>> wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of track? >>> At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track to >>> slide back to remove. >>> >>> >>> >>> Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better. Good Luck, >>> >>> randy >>> >>> Tamanawas >>> >>> 29-II >>> >>> Hood River, OR >>> >>> >>> >>> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis >>> C. via CnC-List >>> Sent: Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM >>> To: CnClist >>> Cc: Dennis C. >>> Subject: Stus-List Intriguing challenge >>> >>> >>> >>> Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled >>> knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: >>> >>> >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA >>> >>> >>> >>> Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a >>> spring pin slide. >>> >>> >>> >>> I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. >>> This is the challenge. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in >>> hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in >>> order to slide it off. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, >>> RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they >>> have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the >>> deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher >>> comfort level with control of tool. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole >>> from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to drill >>> a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove spring >>> and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, etc. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new track. >>> Seems dumb. >>> >>> >>> >>> Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks >>> since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it >>> went. >>> >>> >>> >>> A, the joy of boat ownership. :) >>> >>> >>> >>> Dennis C. >>> >>> Touche' 35-1 #83 >>> >>> Mandeville, LA >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
If none of the suggestions work, go big. A saws All!! Ed Levert C&C 34 Briar Patch New Orleans On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 5:45 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > Yes. That's my Option 4. I'm leaning that way. > > Dennis C. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 4, 2017, at 4:46 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List > wrote: > > I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole > works out through it. > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > On 4 June 2017 at 11:50, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Good idea, but with my luck and shaky hands, I'd probably glue the slide >> to the track. :) At the least, I'd get glue in the spring so it wouldn't >> lift. >> >> Dennis C. >> >> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:35 PM, randy via CnC-List > > wrote: >> >>> Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small >>> bolt or dowel could be used? Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat >>> adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue. Go have a couple of >>> barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious >>> wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of >>> track? At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track >>> to slide back to remove. >>> >>> >>> >>> Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better. Good Luck, >>> >>> randy >>> >>> Tamanawas >>> >>> 29-II >>> >>> Hood River, OR >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of >>> *Dennis >>> C. via CnC-List >>> *Sent:* Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM >>> *To:* CnClist >>> *Cc:* Dennis C. >>> *Subject:* Stus-List Intriguing challenge >>> >>> >>> >>> Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled >>> knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: >>> >>> >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA >>> >>> >>> >>> Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a >>> spring pin slide. >>> >>> >>> >>> I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. >>> This is the challenge. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in >>> hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in >>> order to slide it off. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, >>> RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they >>> have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the >>> deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher >>> comfort level with control of tool. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill >>> hole from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to >>> drill a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove >>> spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, >>> etc. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new >>> track. Seems dumb. >>> >>> >>> >>> Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks >>> since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it >>> went. >>> >>> >>> >>> A, the joy of boat ownership. :) >>> >>> >>> >>> Dennis C. >>> >>> Touche' 35-1 #83 >>> >>> Mandeville, LA >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >>> >>> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access
So, they changed in later years I guess. As discussed my '85 has water tank under starboard settee. Opposite side from the batteries, chart table, head, but same as water heater, range, refrigeration. Not sure why really. Deck fill opposite side from pumpout? Dave Sent from my iPad > On Jun 4, 2017, at 12:42 PM, Bruno Lachance > wrote: > > Nice Dave, > > On my 1987 33 mk II the water tank is port side under this sette and it is > original, so the starboard side is storage and more accessible. This must > have an impact in weight distribution? > > How many 33 mk II owners have their tank on the starboard side? > > Bruno lachance > Bécassine, 1987 33mkii > New-Richmond, Qc. > > Envoyé de mon iPad > > Le 4 juin 2017 à 10:06, Doug Welch via CnC-List a > écrit : > >> Great idea. My boat has two pull out drawers underneath the settee that look >> like they might be original (teak that matches the rest of the boat) >> however, your solution makes much more sense. I'm adding this to my list :) >> >> Doug Welch >> Celtic Knot 33-2 c/b >> >> >> >> On Saturday, June 3, 2017 7:14 PM, Dave S via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> >> Added some access hatches below deck - improved livability. pics below >> >> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.ca/2017/05/port-side-settee-stowage-access.html >> >> Dave >> 1985 33-2 Windstar >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?
ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog thanks in advance cheers doug,celtic knot 33-2 c/b pickering___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Advice for PYI shaft seal maintenance
Josh, I do use a MacMaster shaft collar and it works well. The problem is that the PYI shaft collar does not slide easily on the prop shaft, so I can't push it aft to compress the bellows. Maybe some lubrication would help. And I won't loosen the PYI collar again on haul out, as your experience suggests. But Jim - what is a zinc donut? No idea about that. Is it edible? Ah, Google revealed what they are. Eric > 'A regular zinc donut works well as a retainer, no need for fancy. It also > provides insurance against the shaft sliding out backwards if the coupler > and everything else lets go. > > Jim Watts > McMaster Carr has SS shaft collars which are relatively easy to install. > These are used and recommended a a redundant holding device. They could > also be used to hold the collar until the grub screws were set. > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging
Same. And I bring my main halyard back when putting the boat away. Both it and the topping lift attached to a soft shackle at the boom end. Dave. Sent from my iPad > On Jun 2, 2017, at 8:26 PM, john sandford wrote: > > Seems the reason that having a topping lift is even an issue, is that most > folks don’t have it lead back to the cockpit, where they can do ‘instant’ > adjustments > Mine is lead forward on the boom, down and back to a camcleat in the cockpit > area. > I can work it as needed to adjust twist, or not, and also can lay full weight > on the boom when im putting the main away. > Never does it chafe my Luff for more than a minute. > Never does it even kiss my backstay. > But.. that’s just me > John > LF38 > > > > From: Rick Brass [mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net] > Sent: June-02-17 2:57 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging > > The springs in the solid vang (or hydraulic pressure, or bent fiberglass in > the case of a boomkicker) supports the boom. Tensioning or easing the control > line on the vang controls luff tension – easing the line induces twist. > > The topping lift has two main purposes: > It screws up your tacks in light air when it wraps around the backstay > It makes money for your sailmaker when it abrades the leach of your mainsail > > And you don’t need to leave the cockpit to adjust the rigid vang as you do > when you invariably forget to adjust the topping lift before actually going > sailing. > > > Rick Brass > Washington, NC > > > > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh > Muckley via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, June 02, 2017 9:06 AM > To: C&C List > Cc: Josh Muckley > Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging > > I agree with the limited value added by a topping lift. I've considered > getting rid of mine. Then I realized that I tie off my mainsail sail pack to > it. A topping lift also allows some control of the luff tension which can > induce twist...if desired. The boat I race on has never had a topping lift. > > Josh > > On Jun 2, 2017 8:44 AM, "Gary Nylander via CnC-List" > wrote: > I seem to remember that the Landfall project boat is “wally bryant stella > blue”. The documentation is outstanding. > > Also, I fail to see the need for a topping lift if the boat has a rigid vang. > My vang (Garhauer) is spring loaded and keeps the boom above horizontal > unless I haul it down. The topping lift disappeared many years ago. > > Gary > 30-1 > > From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Brian > Davis via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, June 2, 2017 8:08 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Brian Davis > Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Rigging > > Thank you, Josh and John. I really appreciate the detailed replies. If you > have pictures as well please email me some directly. > > Yes, Nina is a Landfall built in 1980. I've researched her numbers and also > have some of the original paper work. Paul Eugenio who is on this list also > helped confirm that last year after I bought her. If you all have not seen > his website you should. (link below) I actually use it as a reference for > other projects that I've done and plan to do. He does an amazing job > documenting his work. > > http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html > > On Thu, Jun 1, 2017 at 9:50 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: > Hey Brian, > > I'm back again. You might consider using amsteel for you topping lift it is > relatively cheap and you can do the splicing yourself (locked brummel eye > splice with closed thimble). If the length is in question then use the > halyard to pull a tape measure up the mast then walk back to the boom end and > figure the length. You'll want to subtract a foot or two so that the boom > has room to be lifted. > > Use a bosun's chair to attach one end to the top of the mast. > > Mine is rigged the same a John Stanford describes. Mine is cleated on the > boom just forward of the dodger. > > Now that others are mentioning it,g the boat in the picture looks a lot like > my 37+. 1989 was the first year for the 37+ and was the successor to the 37 > but also brought with it characteristics of 40. Is there a chance that yours > is a 37? > > Looks like we all answered your question. Any others? > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C&C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > > > On Jun 1, 2017 2:31 PM, "Brian Davis via CnC-List" > wrote: > Greetings everyone, > > I'm in search of a good schematic for redoing the rigging on my LF 38. I > have the manual and it shows some length measurements, but I'm not fully > educated on the terms. The only thing holding up the boom now is the old > rope guides that keep the main from falling on the deck. When I bought her > the SS cable that connects the back of the boom to the top of the mast was > off and stowed below and there is only a connector
Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?
Windstar has a beckson siphon mate pump mounted below the sink. The ice box drain is connected to this and the pump discharge hose can be placed in the sink to pump the icebox almost dry. When not in use it is coiled up below the sink. Dave - Forwarded message -- From: Doug Welch To: "C&C List" Cc: Bcc: Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2017 23:06:00 + (UTC) Subject: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to? ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog thanks in advance cheers doug, celtic knot 33-2 c/b pickering ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
Would a thousand hours in the Suburban be 20 hours? How does that compare to your motoring time to Maine? I sail on the west coast so I don't have a clue how many hours of operation is involved from Newport to Maine. Rick Rohwer 509 306 1094 > On Jun 4, 2017, at 11:39, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List > wrote: > > Question just motored from Newport ri to Portland Maine and noted the oil > dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24 > hours was 1/2 way on the dip stick. > > On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. > > Is this normal > > Also I get a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at 180. > Oil pressure at 50-55 > > > Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works > > Thanks > > Peter > > Goonie island > C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
I vote for option 4. Gary S/V Kaylarah '90 C&C 37+ East Greenwich, RI, USA ~~~_/)~~ On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 5:46 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole > works out through it. > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C&C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > On 4 June 2017 at 11:50, Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Good idea, but with my luck and shaky hands, I'd probably glue the slide >> to the track. :) At the least, I'd get glue in the spring so it wouldn't >> lift. >> >> Dennis C. >> >> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:35 PM, randy via CnC-List > > wrote: >> >>> Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small >>> bolt or dowel could be used? Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat >>> adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue. Go have a couple of >>> barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious >>> wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of >>> track? At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track >>> to slide back to remove. >>> >>> >>> >>> Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better. Good Luck, >>> >>> randy >>> >>> Tamanawas >>> >>> 29-II >>> >>> Hood River, OR >>> >>> >>> >>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of >>> *Dennis >>> C. via CnC-List >>> *Sent:* Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM >>> *To:* CnClist >>> *Cc:* Dennis C. >>> *Subject:* Stus-List Intriguing challenge >>> >>> >>> >>> Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled >>> knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: >>> >>> >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA >>> >>> >>> >>> Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a >>> spring pin slide. >>> >>> >>> >>> I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. >>> This is the challenge. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in >>> hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in >>> order to slide it off. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, >>> RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they >>> have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the >>> deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher >>> comfort level with control of tool. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill >>> hole from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to >>> drill a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove >>> spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, >>> etc. >>> >>> >>> >>> Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new >>> track. Seems dumb. >>> >>> >>> >>> Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks >>> since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it >>> went. >>> >>> >>> >>> A, the joy of boat ownership. :) >>> >>> >>> >>> Dennis C. >>> >>> Touche' 35-1 #83 >>> >>> Mandeville, LA >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >>> >>> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
Sorry maybe didn't word it right The motor time was about 24 hours no wind at about 2500 rpm this was more delivery then enjoyment. Needed to get back for work Just wondering if others burn oil with their diesel to that amount. Thanks Peter Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List > wrote: > > Would a thousand hours in the Suburban be 20 hours? How does that compare to > your motoring time to Maine? I sail on the west coast so I don't have a clue > how many hours of operation is involved from Newport to Maine. > > Rick Rohwer > 509 306 1094 > > > >> On Jun 4, 2017, at 11:39, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> Question just motored from Newport ri to Portland Maine and noted the oil >> dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24 >> hours was 1/2 way on the dip stick. >> >> On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. >> >> Is this normal >> >> Also I get a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at 180. >> Oil pressure at 50-55 >> >> >> Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works >> >> Thanks >> >> Peter >> >> Goonie island >> C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
No idea what the normal range is but my Westerbeke 21 with 2500 hours burns very little oil. Maybe 0.2 quarts in 40 hours. Of course it has a seemingly permanent coolant leak Dave On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 4:51 PM PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Sorry maybe didn't word it right > > The motor time was about 24 hours no wind at about 2500 rpm this was more > delivery then enjoyment. Needed to get back for work > > Just wondering if others burn oil with their diesel to that amount. > > Thanks > > Peter > > Sent from my iPhone > > > On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > Would a thousand hours in the Suburban be 20 hours? How does that > compare to your motoring time to Maine? I sail on the west coast so I don't > have a clue how many hours of operation is involved from Newport to Maine. > > > > Rick Rohwer > > 509 306 1094 > > > > > > > >> On Jun 4, 2017, at 11:39, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> > >> Question just motored from Newport ri to Portland Maine and noted the > oil dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for > 24 hours was 1/2 way on the dip stick. > >> > >> On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. > >> > >> Is this normal > >> > >> Also I get a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at > 180. Oil pressure at 50-55 > >> > >> > >> Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works > >> > >> Thanks > >> > >> Peter > >> > >> Goonie island > >> C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> ___ > >> > >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > >> > >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > > ___ > > > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
Thanks Dave Had coolant leak as well fixed that it was the water heater loose clamp Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:58 PM, David Castor via CnC-List > wrote: > > No idea what the normal range is but my Westerbeke 21 with 2500 hours burns > very little oil. Maybe 0.2 quarts in 40 hours. Of course it has a seemingly > permanent coolant leak > > Dave >> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 4:51 PM PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List >> wrote: >> Sorry maybe didn't word it right >> >> The motor time was about 24 hours no wind at about 2500 rpm this was more >> delivery then enjoyment. Needed to get back for work >> >> Just wondering if others burn oil with their diesel to that amount. >> >> Thanks >> >> Peter >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> > On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List >> > wrote: >> > >> > Would a thousand hours in the Suburban be 20 hours? How does that compare >> > to your motoring time to Maine? I sail on the west coast so I don't have a >> > clue how many hours of operation is involved from Newport to Maine. >> > >> > Rick Rohwer >> > 509 306 1094 >> > >> > >> > >> >> On Jun 4, 2017, at 11:39, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List >> >> wrote: >> >> >> >> Question just motored from Newport ri to Portland Maine and noted the >> >> oil dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for >> >> 24 hours was 1/2 way on the dip stick. >> >> >> >> On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. >> >> >> >> Is this normal >> >> >> >> Also I get a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at >> >> 180. Oil pressure at 50-55 >> >> >> >> >> >> Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works >> >> >> >> Thanks >> >> >> >> Peter >> >> >> >> Goonie island >> >> C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> ___ >> >> >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > >> > ___ >> > >> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > >> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish >> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish > to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?
"What the Hec" a C&C 33 m 2 is set up the same way but I find the pump does not work to take the water out. The drain may be plugged but I wonder if there is a way to open and close it that I am not seeing? Hector - Original Message - From: Dave S To: doug.we...@rogers.com ; C&c Stus List Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 8:19 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to? Windstar has a beckson siphon mate pump mounted below the sink. The ice box drain is connected to this and the pump discharge hose can be placed in the sink to pump the icebox almost dry. When not in use it is coiled up below the sink. Dave - Forwarded message -- From: Doug Welch To: "C&C List" Cc: Bcc: Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2017 23:06:00 + (UTC) Subject: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to? ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog thanks in advance cheers doug, celtic knot 33-2 c/b pickering___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
Also, FWIW, my oil pressure gauge reads about 75 psi. The surveyor thought that was too high, but I have no idea on the accuracy of the gauge. My mechanic didn't seem overly concerned. He said oil pressure is good. So I haven't really looked into it. On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 5:23 PM, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thanks Dave > > Had coolant leak as well fixed that it was the water heater loose clamp > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:58 PM, David Castor via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > No idea what the normal range is but my Westerbeke 21 with 2500 hours > burns very little oil. Maybe 0.2 quarts in 40 hours. Of course it has a > seemingly permanent coolant leak > > Dave > On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 4:51 PM PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Sorry maybe didn't word it right >> >> The motor time was about 24 hours no wind at about 2500 rpm this was >> more delivery then enjoyment. Needed to get back for work >> >> Just wondering if others burn oil with their diesel to that amount. >> >> Thanks >> >> Peter >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> > On Jun 4, 2017, at 7:33 PM, Rick Rohwer via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> > >> > Would a thousand hours in the Suburban be 20 hours? How does that >> compare to your motoring time to Maine? I sail on the west coast so I don't >> have a clue how many hours of operation is involved from Newport to Maine. >> > >> > Rick Rohwer >> > 509 306 1094 <(509)%20306-1094> >> > >> > >> > >> >> On Jun 4, 2017, at 11:39, PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> >> >> Question just motored from Newport ri to Portland Maine and noted the >> oil dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for >> 24 hours was 1/2 way on the dip stick. >> >> >> >> On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. >> >> >> >> Is this normal >> >> >> >> Also I get a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays >> at 180. Oil pressure at 50-55 >> >> >> >> >> >> Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works >> >> >> >> Thanks >> >> >> >> Peter >> >> >> >> Goonie island >> >> C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin >> >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> ___ >> >> >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If >> you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > >> > ___ >> > >> > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> > >> > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?
I had the same problem, pump would not prime.I replaced the pump, works fine. At the time it was cheaper at Lee Valley than at the marine store. http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?cat=2,42194,40727&p=67259 Doug - not sure I would want that water in the bilge if that's where the PO routed it! Dave Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2017, at 8:59 PM, Hector Saulnier > wrote: > > "What the Hec" a C&C 33 m 2 is set up the same way but I find the pump does > not work to take the water out. The drain may be plugged but I wonder if > there is a way to open and close it that I am not seeing? > > Hector > - Original Message - > From: Dave S > To: doug.we...@rogers.com ; C&c Stus List > Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 8:19 PM > Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the > ice box drain to? > > Windstar has a beckson siphon mate pump mounted below the sink. The ice box > drain is connected to this and the pump discharge hose can be placed in the > sink to pump the icebox almost dry. When not in use it is coiled up below > the sink. > > Dave > > > > > - Forwarded message -- > From: Doug Welch > To: "C&C List" > Cc: > Bcc: > Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2017 23:06:00 + (UTC) > Subject: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice > box drain to? > ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog > > thanks in advance > > cheers doug, > celtic knot 33-2 c/b > pickering ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to?
Dave Thanks for the information Hector - Original Message - From: Dave S To: Hector Saulnier Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com ; C&c Stus List Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 10:09 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to? I had the same problem, pump would not prime.I replaced the pump, works fine. At the time it was cheaper at Lee Valley than at the marine store. http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?cat=2,42194,40727&p=67259 Doug - not sure I would want that water in the bilge if that's where the PO routed it! Dave Sent from my iPhone On Jun 4, 2017, at 8:59 PM, Hector Saulnier wrote: "What the Hec" a C&C 33 m 2 is set up the same way but I find the pump does not work to take the water out. The drain may be plugged but I wonder if there is a way to open and close it that I am not seeing? Hector - Original Message - From: Dave S To: doug.we...@rogers.com ; C&c Stus List Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 8:19 PM Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to? Windstar has a beckson siphon mate pump mounted below the sink. The ice box drain is connected to this and the pump discharge hose can be placed in the sink to pump the icebox almost dry. When not in use it is coiled up below the sink. Dave - Forwarded message -- From: Doug Welch To: "C&C List" Cc: Bcc: Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2017 23:06:00 + (UTC) Subject: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the ice box drain to? ours seems to be clogged and I couldn't figure out how to get to it to unclog thanks in advance cheers doug, celtic knot 33-2 c/b pickering___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List 33-2 water tank
Np. Hector - what year is your boat and where is your fresh water tank located? So far seems like 85-86 are under starboard settee, moved to port in '87. Dave Sent from my iPhone > On Jun 4, 2017, at 9:26 PM, Hector Saulnier > wrote: > > Dave > Thanks for the information > Hector > - Original Message - > From: Dave S > To: Hector Saulnier > Cc: doug.we...@rogers.com ; C&c Stus List > Sent: Sunday, June 04, 2017 10:09 PM > Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 question where does the hose in the bottom of the > ice box drain to? > > I had the same problem, pump would not prime.I replaced the pump, works > fine. At the time it was cheaper at Lee Valley than at the marine store. > > http://www.leevalley.com/en/garden/page.aspx?cat=2,42194,40727&p=67259 > > Doug - not sure I would want that water in the bilge if that's where the > PO routed it! > > Dave > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Jun 4, 2017, at 8:59 PM, Hector Saulnier >> wrote: >> >> "What the Hec" a C&C 33 m 2 is set up the same way but I find the pump >> does not work to take the water out. The drain may be plugged but I wonder >> if there is a way to open and close it that I am not seeing? >> >> Hector >> - Original Message - >> ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
The gauge should be replaced so that you have confidence in it at all rpm's and temps. Few engines should be that high. Bill Dakin > On Jun 4, 2017, at 8:08 PM, David Castor via CnC-List > wrote: > > Also, FWIW, my oil pressure gauge reads about 75 psi. The surveyor thought > that was too high, but I have no idea on the accuracy of the gauge. My > mechanic didn't seem ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
I use permatex D2 for threaded fittings, and a permatex black for gaskets. I also wipe all surfaces with acetone prior to assembly. As for oil usage. How much oil does it take to go from the add Mark and full? It does sound like a lot. If you burned say 3 qts in 24 hours, that is only 1 qt every 8 hours not excessive. But something to monitor. Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant Other LF39 Original message From: PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List Date: 6/4/17 11:39 (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: PETER OCAMPO Subject: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn Question just motored from Newport ri to Portland Maine and noted the oil dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24 hours was 1/2 way on the dip stick. On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. Is this normal Also I get a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at 180. Oil pressure at 50-55 Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works Thanks Peter Goonie island C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin Sent from my iPhone ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
Sorry for my ignorance but is it safe to assume that your westerbeke is a diesel? My diesel "burns" and leaks. Its not burning around the cylinder rings but rather getting into the valve cover and then being drawn through the breather and into the intake. A couple of years ago I installed a drop out tank to catch the oil instead of burning it. I also leak a considerable amount of oil from my hp injector around the shims. I can't really "replace the gasket" since the shims are responsible for the timing of the engine. Maybe somebody has some suggestions but I just live with the leaks and keep a bottle of oil available. If I had to motor 24 hours I think I would probably be down more than half way on the dip stick. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+ Solomons, MD On Jun 4, 2017 2:40 PM, "PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List" wrote: > Question just motored from Newport ri to Portland Maine and noted the oil > dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24 > hours was 1/2 way on the dip stick. > > On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. > > Is this normal > > Also I get a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at > 180. Oil pressure at 50-55 > > > Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works > > Thanks > > Peter > > Goonie island > C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Westerbeke 33 oil burn
I also wanted to give the rough equation that 1000miles is equal to about 20 hours at and average speed of 50 Mi/h. So I agree with your logic... But are they the same combustion tech? Diesel/gas? Diesel has so much higher compression. Josh On Jun 4, 2017 2:40 PM, "PETER OCAMPO via CnC-List" wrote: > Question just motored from Newport ri to Portland Maine and noted the oil > dip stick when I left was full and when I got back after motoring for 24 > hours was 1/2 way on the dip stick. > > On my big block chevy suburban I burn a quart of oil per 1000 miles. > > Is this normal > > Also I get a little white smoke when motoring. No temp issues stays at > 180. Oil pressure at 50-55 > > > Has anyone used a gasket sealer that works > > Thanks > > Peter > > Goonie island > C&c 40 1983. Aft cabin > > Sent from my iPhone > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List Intriguing challenge
That's 10 minutes with a good drill bit, including setup and cleanup and the first beer. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift C&C 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 4 June 2017 at 16:49, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote: > I vote for option 4. > > Gary > S/V Kaylarah > '90 C&C 37+ > East Greenwich, RI, USA > > ~~~_/)~~ > > > On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 5:46 PM, Jim Watts via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I would drill the top hole way oversize (like 3/8") and pull the whole >> works out through it. >> >> Jim Watts >> Paradigm Shift >> C&C 35 Mk III >> Victoria, BC >> >> On 4 June 2017 at 11:50, Dennis C. via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >>> Good idea, but with my luck and shaky hands, I'd probably glue the slide >>> to the track. :) At the least, I'd get glue in the spring so it wouldn't >>> lift. >>> >>> Dennis C. >>> >>> On Sun, Jun 4, 2017 at 1:35 PM, randy via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> Ouch, Dennis, but I wonder if a drop of five minute epoxy on a small bolt or dowel could be used? Perhaps a little oil squirted in to defeat adhesion around pin/track, clean top of pin, and glue. Go have a couple of barley pops (ne’er mind that, wait til done!), and then with some judicious wiggling of slide, lift dowel and pin enough to move slide to top of track? At that point a piece of tin could be slid between slide and track to slide back to remove. Just a thought, perhaps you can develop better. Good Luck, randy Tamanawas 29-II Hood River, OR *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. via CnC-List *Sent:* Sunday, June 4, 2017 10:28 AM *To:* CnClist *Cc:* Dennis C. *Subject:* Stus-List Intriguing challenge Was replacing end stops on the jib track this week and noticed a knurled knob on the deck. It was the pull knob for the jib slide. See pic: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWm0yY3FCT0x3TjA Note knob in shadow and the top of the pull pin on the slide. It is a spring pin slide. I have found a replacement slide but now need to remove the broken one. This is the challenge. Option 1: Tie line to slide, take to winch and tension to "bind" pin in hole in T-track. Drill and tap pin and insert machine screw to lift pin in order to slide it off. Option 2: Cut slide lengthwise, separate and remove. I have Dremel, RotoZip and side grinder. Side grinder and RotoZip would be great but they have a way of getting away from me. I don't need a bunch of gouges in the deck. Might take a lot of cutting wheels with the Dremel but higher comfort level with control of tool. Option 3: Remove the T-track. Plug all the holes on one end, drill hole from back side to push pin up and slide off. Probably would have to drill a couple holes. This is by far least desirable option. Option 4: Drill/grind metal from top of slide to expose pin, remove spring and try to remove pin with needle nose pliers, hemostat, magnet?, etc. Option 5: Remove T-track, dumpster it and the slide. Install new track. Seems dumb. Options 1 and 4 seem best. Probably won't do this job for several weeks since I don't expect to use the slide anytime soon. Will advise how it went. A, the joy of boat ownership. :) Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >>> >>> ___ >>> >>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> >>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >>> >>> >> >> ___ >> >> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you >> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> >> All Contributions are greatly appreciated! >> >> > > ___ > > This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you > wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > > All Contributions are greatly appreciated! > > ___ This list is suppo
Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 137, Issue 20
My 1985 33 mk II has water tanks in both the Port & Starbord settees. Wonder why I have two tanks and others only have one? Lee Rosenbaum Kookaburra 1985 mk II Kenosha, WI -Original Message- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2017 16:42:24 + From: Bruno Lachance To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Nice Dave, On my 1987 33 mk II the water tank is port side under this sette and it is original, so the starboard side is storage and more accessible. This must have an impact in weight distribution? How many 33 mk II owners have their tank on the starboard side? Bruno lachance B?cassine, 1987 33mkii New-Richmond, Qc. ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access
-Original Message- From: Lee Rosenbaum [mailto:rosenbau...@gmail.com] Sent: Monday, June 05, 2017 12:11 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: RE: CnC-List Digest, Vol 137, Issue 20 My 1985 33 mk II has water tanks in both the Port & Starbord settees. Wonder why I have two tanks and others only have one? Lee Rosenbaum Kookaburra 1985 mk II Kenosha, WI -Original Message- Message: 1 Date: Sun, 4 Jun 2017 16:42:24 + From: Bruno Lachance To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 33-2 livability improvement - settee access Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Nice Dave, On my 1987 33 mk II the water tank is port side under this sette and it is original, so the starboard side is storage and more accessible. This must have an impact in weight distribution? How many 33 mk II owners have their tank on the starboard side? Bruno lachance B?cassine, 1987 33mkii New-Richmond, Qc. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com ___ This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
