Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I have the split backstay arrangement as well. Probably the yard guys didn’t 
push the adjuster up all the way to the split when they were reattaching the 
backstays. Just a guess.

 

Gary

St. Michaels MD

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2017 10:35 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

 

My boat has a split backstay with an adjuster that is pulled down with block 
and tackle to pinch the split and increase tension (Is there a nautical name I 
should know?).  My boat was splashed today and the yard crew complained for the 
second year about the difficulty reattaching the backstay.  I don’t think 
previous yards even disconnected it, but something about their sling and lift 
system means they have to come in with the sling from the rear with no 
backstay.  I am pretty sure the mast has a slight backward rake, so I can’t see 
why the length of the backstay would be a problem, but apparently even with the 
turnbuckles and adjuster loosened, they can barely get it reattached.  I can’t 
come up with a reason why they would have such a problem and if it means that 
something is not right with the rig.  I will check the rake again tomorrow now 
that the boat is floating and level, but it has always had some amount of rake 
as measured by a weight hanging from the main halyard.  Any thoughts on 
something I might be missing or is it normal for that kind of backstay to have 
limited adjustability?  Thanks- Dave

 

Aries

1990 C&C 34+

New London, CT




 

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Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

My boat has the same setup for a backstay.split with an 
adjuster.I unstep and step my mast, however, I have no problem 
attaching the split backstay which I am the one usually doing it.


I leave the turn buckle(s) attached and simply remove the split ring and 
pin in the Fall and in the Spring, one at a time put the pin(s) 
in..and when I do this, the forestay is always attached first for 
obvious reasons.the length of the forestay is 'set'..when the 
backstay is attached, the turn buckles are tightened.


I can see where it would be difficult if the backstay turn buckles were 
removed..then it becomes a two person job to attach them.you 
really need one person pulling back and down on the backstay and the 
second threading the turn buckleit can be done with one person but a 
lot simpler with two.


Just curious, when the backstay is attached and tightened, how much 
'thread' is showing inside the turnbuckle?   Just wondering if your 
forestay is too tight.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2017-05-10 11:34 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
My boat has a split backstay with an adjuster that is pulled down with 
block and tackle to pinch the split and increase tension (Is there a 
nautical name I should know?).  My boat was splashed today and the 
yard crew complained for the second year about the difficulty 
reattaching the backstay.  I don’t think previous yards even 
disconnected it, but something about their sling and lift system means 
they have to come in with the sling from the rear with no backstay.  I 
am pretty sure the mast has a slight backward rake, so I can’t see why 
the length of the backstay would be a problem, but apparently even 
with the turnbuckles and adjuster loosened, they can barely get it 
reattached.  I can’t come up with a reason why they would have such a 
problem and if it means that something is not right with the rig.  I 
will check the rake again tomorrow now that the boat is floating and 
level, but it has always had some amount of rake as measured by a 
weight hanging from the main halyard.  Any thoughts on something I 
might be missing or is it normal for that kind of backstay to have 
limited adjustability?  Thanks- Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[robert via CnC-List]

Gary

Good point.when I reattach mine, I have the second person holding 
the backstay(s) push the adjuster all the way up ...usually with a boat 
hook.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-05-11 9:17 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote:


I have the split backstay arrangement as well. Probably the yard guys 
didn’t push the adjuster up all the way to the split when they were 
reattaching the backstays. Just a guess.


Gary

St. Michaels MD




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Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the turnbuckle and 
they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I thought Josh’s idea to 
take tension off the backstay with the halyard makes a lot of sense.  I will 
take a look at that today.  I know the backstay adjuster was mostly loose as I 
had pushed it up with a pole this spring when I was playing with shroud 
adjustment.  
1.  How much tension should there be with the adjuster up as far as it will go 
without a pole pushing it.  Should there actually be slack to put the pins back 
in with the turnbuckles loose but attached without taking tension off with the 
halyard as Josh suggested? 
2.  I am presuming that it is safe to work on the rig with the backstay 
detached (meaning the mast is still well supported by the deck, forestay and 
shrouds)?
Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



> On May 11, 2017, at 8:23 AM, robert  wrote:
> 
> David:
> 
> My boat has the same setup for a backstay.split with an adjuster.I 
> unstep and step my mast, however, I have no problem attaching the split 
> backstay which I am the one usually doing it.
> 
> I leave the turn buckle(s) attached and simply remove the split ring and pin 
> in the Fall and in the Spring, one at a time put the pin(s) in..and when 
> I do this, the forestay is always attached first for obvious reasons.the 
> length of the forestay is 'set'..when the backstay is attached, the turn 
> buckles are tightened.
> 
> I can see where it would be difficult if the backstay turn buckles were 
> removed..then it becomes a two person job to attach them.you really 
> need one person pulling back and down on the backstay and the second 
> threading the turn buckleit can be done with one person but a lot simpler 
> with two.
> 
> Just curious, when the backstay is attached and tightened, how much 'thread' 
> is showing inside the turnbuckle?   Just wondering if your forestay is too 
> tight.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>  
> 
> On 2017-05-10 11:34 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>> My boat has a split backstay with an adjuster that is pulled down with block 
>> and tackle to pinch the split and increase tension (Is there a nautical name 
>> I should know?).  My boat was splashed today and the yard crew complained 
>> for the second year about the difficulty reattaching the backstay.  I don’t 
>> think previous yards even disconnected it, but something about their sling 
>> and lift system means they have to come in with the sling from the rear with 
>> no backstay.  I am pretty sure the mast has a slight backward rake, so I 
>> can’t see why the length of the backstay would be a problem, but apparently 
>> even with the turnbuckles and adjuster loosened, they can barely get it 
>> reattached.  I can’t come up with a reason why they would have such a 
>> problem and if it means that something is not right with the rig.  I will 
>> check the rake again tomorrow now that the boat is floating and level, but 
>> it has always had some amount of rake as measured by a weight hanging from 
>> the main halyard.  Any thoughts on something I might be missing or is it 
>> normal for that kind of backstay to have limited adjustability?  Thanks- Dave
>> 
>> Aries
>> 1990 C&C 34+
>> New London, CT
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Ditto Josh's solution. 

Keel step rig. No issue with back stay off in calm or light conditions. If in 
doubt use main halyard aft to block it. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 11, 2017, at 8:50 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the turnbuckle 
> and they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I thought Josh’s idea 
> to take tension off the backstay with the halyard makes a lot of sense.  I 
> will take a look at that today.  I know the backstay adjuster was mostly 
> loose as I had pushed it up with a pole this spring when I was playing with 
> shroud adjustment.  
> 1.  How much tension should there be with the adjuster up as far as it will 
> go without a pole pushing it.  Should there actually be slack to put the pins 
> back in with the turnbuckles loose but attached without taking tension off 
> with the halyard as Josh suggested? 
> 2.  I am presuming that it is safe to work on the rig with the backstay 
> detached (meaning the mast is still well supported by the deck, forestay and 
> shrouds)?
> Thanks- Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C&C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 
>> On May 11, 2017, at 8:23 AM, robert  wrote:
>> 
>> David:
>> 
>> My boat has the same setup for a backstay.split with an adjuster.I 
>> unstep and step my mast, however, I have no problem attaching the split 
>> backstay which I am the one usually doing it.
>> 
>> I leave the turn buckle(s) attached and simply remove the split ring and pin 
>> in the Fall and in the Spring, one at a time put the pin(s) in..and when 
>> I do this, the forestay is always attached first for obvious reasons.the 
>> length of the forestay is 'set'..when the backstay is attached, the turn 
>> buckles are tightened.
>> 
>> I can see where it would be difficult if the backstay turn buckles were 
>> removed..then it becomes a two person job to attach them.you really 
>> need one person pulling back and down on the backstay and the second 
>> threading the turn buckleit can be done with one person but a lot 
>> simpler with two.
>> 
>> Just curious, when the backstay is attached and tightened, how much 'thread' 
>> is showing inside the turnbuckle?   Just wondering if your forestay is too 
>> tight.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>  
>> 
>>> On 2017-05-10 11:34 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
>>> My boat has a split backstay with an adjuster that is pulled down with 
>>> block and tackle to pinch the split and increase tension (Is there a 
>>> nautical name I should know?).  My boat was splashed today and the yard 
>>> crew complained for the second year about the difficulty reattaching the 
>>> backstay.  I don’t think previous yards even disconnected it, but something 
>>> about their sling and lift system means they have to come in with the sling 
>>> from the rear with no backstay.  I am pretty sure the mast has a slight 
>>> backward rake, so I can’t see why the length of the backstay would be a 
>>> problem, but apparently even with the turnbuckles and adjuster loosened, 
>>> they can barely get it reattached.  I can’t come up with a reason why they 
>>> would have such a problem and if it means that something is not right with 
>>> the rig.  I will check the rake again tomorrow now that the boat is 
>>> floating and level, but it has always had some amount of rake as measured 
>>> by a weight hanging from the main halyard.  Any thoughts on something I 
>>> might be missing or is it normal for that kind of backstay to have limited 
>>> adjustability?  Thanks- Dave
>>> 
>>> Aries
>>> 1990 C&C 34+
>>> New London, CT
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you 
>>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> 
>>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I am probably stating the obvious, but make sure that there is _something_ 
holding the mast backwards (i.e. either a halyard, halyard/mainsheet 
combination, or the topping lift/mainsheet combination). If you release the 
backstay without that support, the forestay would pull the mast forward.

I would secure it with the halyard (as I always do when attaching the backstay 
or working on the forestay).

Marek

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 12:15
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Dennis C.
Subject: Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

Ditto Josh's solution.

Keel step rig. No issue with back stay off in calm or light conditions. If in 
doubt use main halyard aft to block it.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

On May 11, 2017, at 8:50 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the turnbuckle and 
they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I thought Josh’s idea to 
take tension off the backstay with the halyard makes a lot of sense.  I will 
take a look at that today.  I know the backstay adjuster was mostly loose as I 
had pushed it up with a pole this spring when I was playing with shroud 
adjustment.
1.  How much tension should there be with the adjuster up as far as it will go 
without a pole pushing it.  Should there actually be slack to put the pins back 
in with the turnbuckles loose but attached without taking tension off with the 
halyard as Josh suggested?
2.  I am presuming that it is safe to work on the rig with the backstay 
detached (meaning the mast is still well supported by the deck, forestay and 
shrouds)?
Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT



On May 11, 2017, at 8:23 AM, robert 
mailto:robertabb...@eastlink.ca>> wrote:

David:

My boat has the same setup for a backstay.split with an adjuster.I 
unstep and step my mast, however, I have no problem attaching the split 
backstay which I am the one usually doing it.

I leave the turn buckle(s) attached and simply remove the split ring and pin in 
the Fall and in the Spring, one at a time put the pin(s) in..and when I do 
this, the forestay is always attached first for obvious reasons.the length 
of the forestay is 'set'..when the backstay is attached, the turn buckles 
are tightened.

I can see where it would be difficult if the backstay turn buckles were 
removed..then it becomes a two person job to attach them.you really 
need one person pulling back and down on the backstay and the second threading 
the turn buckleit can be done with one person but a lot simpler with two.

Just curious, when the backstay is attached and tightened, how much 'thread' is 
showing inside the turnbuckle?   Just wondering if your forestay is too tight.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-05-10 11:34 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
My boat has a split backstay with an adjuster that is pulled down with block 
and tackle to pinch the split and increase tension (Is there a nautical name I 
should know?).  My boat was splashed today and the yard crew complained for the 
second year about the difficulty reattaching the backstay.  I don’t think 
previous yards even disconnected it, but something about their sling and lift 
system means they have to come in with the sling from the rear with no 
backstay.  I am pretty sure the mast has a slight backward rake, so I can’t see 
why the length of the backstay would be a problem, but apparently even with the 
turnbuckles and adjuster loosened, they can barely get it reattached.  I can’t 
come up with a reason why they would have such a problem and if it means that 
something is not right with the rig.  I will check the rake again tomorrow now 
that the boat is floating and level, but it has always had some amount of rake 
as measured by a weight hanging from the main halyard.  Any thoughts on 
something I might be missing or is it normal for that kind of backstay to have 
limited adjustability?  Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT







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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[jhnelson via CnC-List]

Ditto on mine. As well, unless you turn the boat upside down you can take all 
the stays off. Light winds of course. Mast isn't going to fall out of the cabin.


Sent from my Samsung device

 Original message 
From: robert via CnC-List  
Date: 2017-05-11  09:26  (GMT-04:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: robert  
Subject: Stus-List Backstay length and tension 


Gary



Good point.when I reattach mine, I have the second person
holding the backstay(s) push the adjuster all the way up ...usually
with a boat hook.



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 -84

Halifax, N.S.



On 2017-05-11 9:17 AM, Gary Nylander
  via CnC-List wrote:



  
  
  
I have the split backstay arrangement
as well. Probably the yard guys didn’t push the adjuster up
all the way to the split when they were reattaching the
backstays. Just a guess.
 
Gary
St. Michaels MD


  



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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild

[Derek DeVries via CnC-List]

Hi all

   I am looking for a replacement rudder for my Mk1.

   The boat is on it's 2nd rudder.  What I have is just a straight spade
rudder (I am not sure of it's origin ).

   A 100% new build from south shore yachts (or other) is possible but I'm
looking for more wallet friendly options.

   At this point I am looking at sling time to remove what I have, then
shipping it off for a rebuild then more sling time to reinstall.

   Are there any sources out there for salvaged parts?  Or boats in barns
being parted out? Even a dead rudder with a good frame for a reasonable
price would save me  some money and the headache of two trips to the yard.

   I am in Toronto, Canada.  Any suggestions are appreciated.

Derek DeVries
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Having my original rudder, I have to ask how you went through *2*???
Joe
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Derek 
DeVries via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 3:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Derek DeVries 
Subject: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild

Hi all
   I am looking for a replacement rudder for my Mk1.
   The boat is on it's 2nd rudder.  What I have is just a straight spade rudder 
(I am not sure of it's origin ).

   A 100% new build from south shore yachts (or other) is possible but I'm 
looking for more wallet friendly options.
   At this point I am looking at sling time to remove what I have, then 
shipping it off for a rebuild then more sling time to reinstall.

   Are there any sources out there for salvaged parts?  Or boats in barns being 
parted out? Even a dead rudder with a good frame for a reasonable price would 
save me  some money and the headache of two trips to the yard.

   I am in Toronto, Canada.  Any suggestions are appreciated.
Derek DeVries
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild

[Jim via CnC-List]

I second that question and am also curious as to how she sails with the 
straight blade vs the original swept scimitar rudder? 
James 
Flamingo IV 
C&C 35 Mk1 

- Original Message -

From: "Joe via CnC-List Della Barba"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Joe Della Barba"  
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 3:18:45 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild 



Having my original rudder, I have to ask how you went through * 2 *??? 

Joe 

Coquina 

C&C 35 MK I 

  

  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Derek 
DeVries via CnC-List 
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2017 3:53 PM 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Derek DeVries  
Subject: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild 

  


Hi all 


   I am looking for a replacement rudder for my Mk1. 


   The boat is on it's 2nd rudder.  What I have is just a straight spade rudder 
(I am not sure of it's origin ). 


  


   A 100% new build from south shore yachts (or other) is possible but I'm 
looking for more wallet friendly options. 


   At this point I am looking at sling time to remove what I have, then 
shipping it off for a rebuild then more sling time to reinstall. 


  


   Are there any sources out there for salvaged parts?  Or boats in barns being 
parted out? Even a dead rudder with a good frame for a reasonable price would 
save me  some money and the headache of two trips to the yard. 


  


   I am in Toronto, Canada.  Any suggestions are appreciated. 


Derek DeVries 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild

[Derek DeVries via CnC-List]

Good questions!

The first rudder change predates my relationship with the boat so I don't
know why it was changed in the first place.

This rudder took a hit and was repaired many years ago.  Water infiltration
through the patch has done it's work.

 I can't say from personal experience what the difference is, but the those
with a longer history with the boat than I do say it was better with the
old rudder.

Derek DeVries
The Fifth Day
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Re: Stus-List Backstay length and tension

[robert via CnC-List]

David:

When my two back stay turn buckles are tensioned to where I like them, 
no adjuster pulled on, there is approx. 2" showing on each one on the 
inside of the turn buckle.I thread both sides of each turn buckle 
equally.


When attaching to the back rail when stepping the mast, both are 
loosened off approx. 1 1/2 inches of the 2" and they can be pinned no 
problem.


I take my adjuster off the back stay each Fall and put it back on the 
Spring.it is not put back on until I have the two back stay(s) on 
and tensioned so the adjuster has no part in getting the back stay pinned.


I don't have a halyard attached to the back rail or anywhere.I don't 
use a halyard.never have.with the mast in the mast step, blocked 
at the base, the mast shimed in the collar, the forestay on, the shrouds 
tensioned, my mast isn't going anywhere.  A halyard is always added 
protection but I will never use one.


Trusting this helps.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2017-05-11 10:50 AM, David Knecht wrote:
They said was that there were only a few threads engaged on the 
turnbuckle and they were leaving it to me to tighten it further.  I 
thought Josh’s idea to take tension off the backstay with the halyard 
makes a lot of sense.  I will take a look at that today.  I know the 
backstay adjuster was mostly loose as I had pushed it up with a pole 
this spring when I was playing with shroud adjustment.
1.  How much tension should there be with the adjuster up as far as it 
will go without a pole pushing it.  Should there actually be slack to 
put the pins back in with the turnbuckles loose but attached without 
taking tension off with the halyard as Josh suggested?
2.  I am presuming that it is safe to work on the rig with the 
backstay detached (meaning the mast is still well supported by the 
deck, forestay and shrouds)?

Thanks- Dave

Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT


On May 11, 2017, at 8:23 AM, robert > wrote:


David:

My boat has the same setup for a backstay.split with an 
adjuster.I unstep and step my mast, however, I have no problem 
attaching the split backstay which I am the one usually doing it.


I leave the turn buckle(s) attached and simply remove the split ring 
and pin in the Fall and in the Spring, one at a time put the pin(s) 
in..and when I do this, the forestay is always attached first for 
obvious reasons.the length of the forestay is 'set'..when the 
backstay is attached, the turn buckles are tightened.


I can see where it would be difficult if the backstay turn buckles 
were removed..then it becomes a two person job to attach 
them.you really need one person pulling back and down on the 
backstay and the second threading the turn buckleit can be done 
with one person but a lot simpler with two.


Just curious, when the backstay is attached and tightened, how much 
'thread' is showing inside the turnbuckle?   Just wondering if your 
forestay is too tight.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2017-05-10 11:34 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
My boat has a split backstay with an adjuster that is pulled down 
with block and tackle to pinch the split and increase tension (Is 
there a nautical name I should know?).  My boat was splashed today 
and the yard crew complained for the second year about the 
difficulty reattaching the backstay.  I don’t think previous yards 
even disconnected it, but something about their sling and lift 
system means they have to come in with the sling from the rear with 
no backstay.  I am pretty sure the mast has a slight backward rake, 
so I can’t see why the length of the backstay would be a problem, 
but apparently even with the turnbuckles and adjuster loosened, they 
can barely get it reattached.  I can’t come up with a reason why 
they would have such a problem and if it means that something is not 
right with the rig.  I will check the rake again tomorrow now that 
the boat is floating and level, but it has always had some amount of 
rake as measured by a weight hanging from the main halyard.  Any 
thoughts on something I might be missing or is it normal for that 
kind of backstay to have limited adjustability?  Thanks- Dave


Aries
1990 C&C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

FWIW, I have a drawing from C&C for a "High Aspect Ratio Rudder" for a 
retrofit to the 35-1, dated Feb '73.  It shows a constant chord length 
straight rudder, and interestingly, it calls for changing the angle of 
the rudder stock from the old swept back to almost vertical.  Shows 
closing up the old stuffing box and making a new one.  Possibly this is 
what is on your boat?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 5/11/2017 4:37 PM, Derek DeVries via CnC-List wrote:

Good questions!

The first rudder change predates my relationship with the boat so I 
don't know why it was changed in the first place.


This rudder took a hit and was repaired many years ago. Water 
infiltration through the patch has done it's work.


 I can't say from personal experience what the difference is, but the 
those with a longer history with the boat than I do say it was better 
with the old rudder.


Derek DeVries
The Fifth Day


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Re: Stus-List C&C 35 Mk1 rudder replace/rebuild

[Derek DeVries via CnC-List]

This rudder definitely came off another boat, or at least out of the mold
for another boats rudder.   It has has the cut out for a small skeg (as if
it was a C&C 35 Mk3 or a C&C 33). The rudder post is still swept and the
square drive pops out ahead of the helm in partition for the pilots well.

Derek
The Fifth Day
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Stus-List Strange smell equals bad news

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Took Touche' from Mandeville, LA to Pensacola this past weekend.  Fairly
nice transit with 100% engine assist.  We spent 2nd night in marina on
ICW.  After we returned to boat from a nice dinner, we smelled a weird odor
in the boat.  Only in the main cabin.  Could not locate source until next
morning.  Dinner may have had effect on investigative skills.

The odor had a sulfide smell.  Duh!  Ruling out some sort of iron eating
bacteria in the bilge I thought "where is only source of
sulfur/sulfate/sulfide on the boat?"  Batteries, of course.

Yup. Cooked off a battery due to low electrolyte level.  Darn!  Battery was
pretty hot to the touch.  Second battery in the bank was warm but not hot.

I typically get 7+ years out of these batteries (Delco Voyagers) without
maintenance.  That is, with no addition of electrolyte.  However, the
recent addition of refrigeration and running it 24/7 had greatly increased
the number of charge cycles.  I'll replace both batteries.

Lesson learned.  Check the electrolyte levels frequently if I'm running the
refrigeration.

Also, lost the temperature gauge for the engine.  Sensor tested good.  Wire
tested good.  Grounding the sensor wire showed no movement of the gauge's
needle.  Dead.  Even grounded it on the back of the panel to further
eliminate the wire.  No movement.  (As an engine temp sensor heats up, the
resistance decreases.  Grounding the sensor wire simulates high temp
condition.  The needle should deflect to max.)

Not like Touche'.  Boat is normally breakdown free.  It was still a nice
trip.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hello all,
Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look fogged 
and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After reading here and other 
places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a test here at home.  I 
have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap plexiglass.  Starting 
with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new piece of plexi until it 
looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and 2000, then went to buffing 
compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for headlights.  

Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.  

So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here cautions 
me otherwise.
What say you wise folks? Bruce Whitmore

(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Fogged, Scratched Plexiglass - Good home test, now to try it on our companionway hatches...

[Jim Watts via CnC-List]

You can make it a lot easier on yourself and use Novus #2.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC

On 11 May 2017 at 19:01, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> Our 37/40+ has tinted plexiglass sliding companionway hatches that look
> fogged and lightly scratched all over from years of sun.  After reading
> here and other places about potential ways of curing the issue, I ran a
> test here at home.  I have a Ryobi Corner Cat, and grabbed a piece of scrap
> plexiglass.  Starting with 360 wet/dry sandpaper, I wet sanded the nice new
> piece of plexi until it looked like $#!+.  Then followed with 600, 1200 and
> 2000, then went to buffing compound, and finally to McGuire's polish for
> headlights.
>
> Sure enough, the piece of plexiglass came out really nice & clear.
>
> So, I think I'll try it on the sliding hatchboards unless someone here
> cautions me otherwise.
>
> What say you wise folks?
>
> Bruce Whitmore
>
> (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
> bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Strange smell equals bad news

[Randy Stafford via CnC-List]

Glad you had a good trip Dennis and sorry about the batteries. Thanks for 
sharing the lesson. I just checked the water in mine (for the first time) last 
weekend. They were full despite being several years old. Loads and usage on my 
boat are pretty light.

Cheers,
Randy

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 11, 2017, at 7:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Took Touche' from Mandeville, LA to Pensacola this past weekend.  Fairly nice 
> transit with 100% engine assist.  We spent 2nd night in marina on ICW.  After 
> we returned to boat from a nice dinner, we smelled a weird odor in the boat.  
> Only in the main cabin.  Could not locate source until next morning.  Dinner 
> may have had effect on investigative skills.
> 
> The odor had a sulfide smell.  Duh!  Ruling out some sort of iron eating 
> bacteria in the bilge I thought "where is only source of 
> sulfur/sulfate/sulfide on the boat?"  Batteries, of course.
> 
> Yup. Cooked off a battery due to low electrolyte level.  Darn!  Battery was 
> pretty hot to the touch.  Second battery in the bank was warm but not hot.
> 
> I typically get 7+ years out of these batteries (Delco Voyagers) without 
> maintenance.  That is, with no addition of electrolyte.  However, the recent 
> addition of refrigeration and running it 24/7 had greatly increased the 
> number of charge cycles.  I'll replace both batteries.
> 
> Lesson learned.  Check the electrolyte levels frequently if I'm running the 
> refrigeration.
> 
> Also, lost the temperature gauge for the engine.  Sensor tested good.  Wire 
> tested good.  Grounding the sensor wire showed no movement of the gauge's 
> needle.  Dead.  Even grounded it on the back of the panel to further 
> eliminate the wire.  No movement.  (As an engine temp sensor heats up, the 
> resistance decreases.  Grounding the sensor wire simulates high temp 
> condition.  The needle should deflect to max.)
> 
> Not like Touche'.  Boat is normally breakdown free.  It was still a nice trip.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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