Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List]

Hi All, 
This is my second season with my new to me 1980 30-1. I would like to 
rig it for a spinnaker this year. Not interested in racing with one, but I like 
the idea of using it for light winds downwind sailing. So I have to install a 
block for the pole lift and I’m wondering where to install it. In the C&C 
manual it shows the pole lift at 22’-0” above the ‘black line’ at base of mast. 
But I don’t have a black line on my mast, not at the base (which I assume is 
around the height of boom?) nor at the top of my mast. Does anyone know where I 
would locate these black lines? or the height of the topping lift from some 
other reference point? My second question is where to mount the pole downhaul 
(foreguy) - a? Thanks for this. 

By the way, love the list, such a great source of information. And here’s to 
all the other C&C owners out there who’s arms are a sore as mine this time of 
year as we get these boats ready for launch.


Kevin Deluzio
S/V Solevento
C&C30-1 #641
Kingston, ON
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Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Jerome Tauber via CnC-List]

I'm sure you are going to hear this many times but if you don't race why not go 
with an asymmetric spinnaker.  No pole, no down haul and no lift.  Much easier 
to fly and better for reaching in light wind.  Jerry J&J.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 28, 2017, at 7:41 AM, Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi All, 
>This is my second season with my new to me 1980 30-1. I would like to rig 
> it for a spinnaker this year. Not interested in racing with one, but I like 
> the idea of using it for light winds downwind sailing. So I have to install a 
> block for the pole lift and I’m wondering where to install it. In the C&C 
> manual it shows the pole lift at 22’-0” above the ‘black line’ at base of 
> mast. But I don’t have a black line on my mast, not at the base (which I 
> assume is around the height of boom?) nor at the top of my mast. Does anyone 
> know where I would locate these black lines? or the height of the topping 
> lift from some other reference point? My second question is where to mount 
> the pole downhaul (foreguy) - a? Thanks for this. 
> 
> By the way, love the list, such a great source of information. And here’s to 
> all the other C&C owners out there who’s arms are a sore as mine this time of 
> year as we get these boats ready for launch.
> 
> 
> Kevin Deluzio
> S/V Solevento
> C&C30-1 #641
> Kingston, ON
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


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Stus-List Anyone near St. Joseph, Michigan?

[Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List]

Was wondering if there is anyone near St. Joseph, Michigan that could take
a cursory look at a C&C 33 Mk2 for me. I'm on the other side of Lake
Michigan and would like to know that it's not a total waste of time before
making the trip over there to look at it. I'm sure I could do something to
make it worth your time. Thanks.
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Stus-List Broke a Zerc fitting

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

After greasing the rudder post I managed to snap off the grease fitting.  I
was planning to use a screw extractor to try to get it out.  Any tips or
tricks before I make it worse?  If I have to drill and tap, what size tap?

Thanks!

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
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Re: Stus-List Anyone near St. Joseph, Michigan?

[schiller via CnC-List]

Richard,

I am about 30 miles from St. Joe.  Just went to Wolf's Marine in Benton 
Harbor on Wednesday.  Where is the boat and what is your time frame?  I 
could go over and take a look and snap a few pictures for you.


We used to be in South Haven.  Just up the coast, but have since moved 
north to White Lake.


Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C&C 35, Mark I)
"Corsair"
White Lake, Michigan

On 4/28/2017 9:16 AM, Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List wrote:
Was wondering if there is anyone near St. Joseph, Michigan that could 
take a cursory look at a C&C 33 Mk2 for me. I'm on the other side of 
Lake Michigan and would like to know that it's not a total waste of 
time before making the trip over there to look at it. I'm sure I could 
do something to make it worth your time. Thanks.



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Re: Stus-List Broke a Zerc fitting

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Joel,

 

There are many size zerc fittings.  If you have enough of the threads left, try 
going to NAPA to match it.  I went to one this morning and they sell many 
thread sizes.  That will at least get you the tap size.  If the fitting came 
standard on the boat, maybe other owners know the size.

 

Ron

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2017 9:26 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Stus-List Broke a Zerc fitting

 

After greasing the rudder post I managed to snap off the grease fitting.  I was 
planning to use a screw extractor to try to get it out.  Any tips or tricks 
before I make it worse?  If I have to drill and tap, what size tap?

 

Thanks!


 

-- 

Joel 
301 541 8551

 


 

 Image removed by sender.

Virus-free.  

 www.avg.com 

 

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Re: Stus-List Broke a Zerc fitting

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Depending how close it is to the fiberglass, put a small amount of heat to the 
fitting with highly directed propane flame alternating with penetrating oil and 
heat again.  This drives the oil around the threads.  Then use the extractor
 s l o w l y.  BTDT many, many times with tractor restorations.  Where every 
fastener is stuck after 70 years.

Bill Dakin

> On Apr 28, 2017, at 8:26 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> After greasing the rudder post I managed to snap off the grease fitting.  I 
> was planning to use a screw extractor to try to get it out.  Any tips or 
> tricks before I make it worse?  If I have to drill and tap, what size tap?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> 
>   Virus-free. www.avg.com
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I will be prepping my mast next week and could take measurements. I doubt you 
would
want to mount a normal block on the front of the mast if you are carrying an 
overlapping
headsail. It will rub and maybe catch on every tack. The 30-1 factory spinnaker 
uphaul
fitting was a feedthrough with less to catch.

While far from optimum if you are looking to try some light wind downwind 
cruising you
could try it with a simple fixed setup. I have seen some boats use a fixed ring 
to mount
the spinnaker pole to the mast and a similar ring further up with a line looped 
through it
for the uphaul. It doesn't adjust much under load, but that may be fine for 
you. It is also
cheap and won't snag your headsail. You will need a downhaul / foreguy. The can 
work
from a block on the toerail, maybe a forward eye if you have one mounted. I use 
a block
on the base of the mast, fix the line on the starboard side of the mast, up to 
a block on
the spinnaker bridle, then down to a block on the port side of the mast and 
then to the
cockpit. Somewhat strange but it allows sheeting the pole forward and back 
without
having to adjust the downhaul.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
 

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2017 07:41:02 -0400 
From: Kevin Deluzio  

Hi All,  
     This is my second season with my new to me 1980 30-1. I would like to rig 
it for a spinnaker this year. Not interested in racing with one, but I like the 
idea of using it for light winds downwind sailing. So I have to install a block 
for the pole lift and I?m wondering where to install it. In the C&C manual it 
shows the pole lift at 22?-0? above the ?black line? at base of mast. But I 
don?t have a black line on my mast, not at the base (which I assume is around 
the height of boom?) nor at the top of my mast. Does anyone know where I would 
locate these black lines? or the height of the topping lift from some other 
reference point? My second question is where to mount the pole downhaul 
(foreguy) - a? Thanks for this.  
 
By the way, love the list, such a great source of information. And here?s to 
all the other C&C owners out there who?s arms are a sore as mine this time of 
year as we get these boats ready for launch. 
 
 
Kevin Deluzio 
S/V Solevento 
C&C30-1 #641 
Kingston, ON 
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Re: Stus-List Speaking of oxalic acid

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I have not used this myself, but I have seen folks clean severely stained hulls 
using cheap “Dollar General” toilet bowl cleaner.   At 24oz for a buck, it may 
be worth a try especially for something heading to Craigslist.



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Apr 28, 2017, at 10:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 12:25:15 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
> To: CnClist mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Speaking of oxalic acid
> Message-ID:
>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I'm trying to clean an old beach cat I've had in my back yard for, well,
> for a "while".  It has lichen growing on it.  What a chore.  It's headed
> for Craigslist.
> 
> Anyway, it is badly stained.  I'll mix up some oxalic acid to remove most
> of the stains.  Hopefully the rest will polish out with some Aquabuff 2000
> and a DA polisher.
> 
> Re the recent discussion on wood bleach, etc.  Here's another source for
> oxalic acid if you want "marine" stuff.
> 
> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63896 
> 
> 
> Otherwise, a hardware store should have it.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Kevin,

First, the elevation of the exit/block for the pole lift is not critical.
 +/- 2-4 feet should be OK.

Second, many of the older models had a "donut" on the forward side of the
mast for a pole lift exit.  Simply a hole with a round metal washer-like
fitting.

My 35-1 has one of the donuts but I didn't want the friction of the line
turning over a fixed point.  I installed an exit block from Rig Rite.
Scroll down the link below to the NGA-25 block.

http://www.rigrite.com/Spars/SparParts/Exit_blocks.php#Single Exit Blocks

Installation is a bit onerous but the result is worthwhile.  If you choose
to install an exit block, you need to verify whether your mast has an
internal conduit for wiring.  It would not be good to cut through your
wiring.

As far as the downhaul, the ideal attachment point is halfway between the
bow stem and mast.  I installed a Wichard folding padeye with an aluminum
backing plate on the foredeck.

I use a double downhaul system which may be too complex for your needs.
That is, the downhaul sheets run down either side of the boat to camcleats
on either side of the cabin.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 6:41 AM, Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi All,
> This is my second season with my new to me 1980 30-1. I would like
> to rig it for a spinnaker this year. Not interested in racing with one, but
> I like the idea of using it for light winds downwind sailing. So I have to
> install a block for the pole lift and I’m wondering where to install it. In
> the C&C manual it shows the pole lift at 22’-0” above the ‘black line’ at
> base of mast. But I don’t have a black line on my mast, not at the base
> (which I assume is around the height of boom?) nor at the top of my mast.
> Does anyone know where I would locate these black lines? or the height of
> the topping lift from some other reference point? My second question is
> where to mount the pole downhaul (foreguy) - a? Thanks for this.
>
> By the way, love the list, such a great source of information. And here’s
> to all the other C&C owners out there who’s arms are a sore as mine this
> time of year as we get these boats ready for launch.
>
>
> Kevin Deluzio
> S/V Solevento
> C&C30-1 #641
> Kingston, ON
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Speaking of oxalic acid

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Are you insulting my crapamaran?  I mean, catamaran?  :)

Actually, the oxalic acid seems to work well on the brown stains.  I got
some at my local Ace Hardware.  It does, however, have a deleterious affect
on the decal striping on the hull.

The issue now are the "footprints" of the lichens and woodvine.  I may have
to compound/polish it off.  Actually, I'm thinking the next owner can do it.

I'm thinking someone at the FWYC needs a beach cat.

Dennis C.



On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 11:30 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  wrote:

> I have not used this myself, but I have seen folks clean severely stained
> hulls using cheap “Dollar General” toilet bowl cleaner.   At 24oz for a
> buck, it may be worth a try especially for something heading to Craigslist.
>
>
>
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C&C 38 Landfall
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>
> On Apr 28, 2017, at 10:53 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2017 12:25:15 -0500
> From: "Dennis C." 
> To: CnClist 
> Subject: Stus-List Speaking of oxalic acid
> Message-ID:
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> I'm trying to clean an old beach cat I've had in my back yard for, well,
> for a "while".  It has lichen growing on it.  What a chore.  It's headed
> for Craigslist.
>
> Anyway, it is badly stained.  I'll mix up some oxalic acid to remove most
> of the stains.  Hopefully the rest will polish out with some Aquabuff 2000
> and a DA polisher.
>
> Re the recent discussion on wood bleach, etc.  Here's another source for
> oxalic acid if you want "marine" stuff.
>
> https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=63896
>
> Otherwise, a hardware store should have it.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Stus-List Slight mold inside

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Greetings folks,I've discovered that I'm getting a slight mold growth on the 
inside glass (GRF) in the off season.  Can anyone suggest a mild cleaner that 
won't scratch the GRF?  I'm worried that something harsh might leave 
microscopic pits that would promote more mold growth in the off season.Also, 
does anyone wax or otherwise protect the inside glass?  And if so, what do you 
use?What about the textured ceiling?I might have to replace my scuppers to 
effect prevention.  I never had it before, but now since I've lost all three 
scupper horns, I've sealed up the holes to stop critters from nesting and 
suddenly I'm getting mold.ThanksRon Wild CheriC&C 30-1STL
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Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mast Step Support Rebuild Project Write-Up

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Thank you all for the positive feedback. 

I've made several edits to the write-up since originally posting it, including 
adding a couple of drawings with my trigonometry calculations. It should be in 
its final form now. 

Stu if you want to post it on 
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/index.htm, you are certainly welcome 
to do so. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List"  
To: "CnClist"  
Cc: "Dennis"  
Sent: Thursday, April 27, 2017 3:23:22 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List 30-1 Mast Step Support Rebuild Project Write-Up 

Good job, Randy! 

Dennis C. 

On Wed, Apr 26, 2017 at 4:39 PM, RANDY via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Listers- 

I put a write-up of my mast step support rebuild project this spring at 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM . It's an 8.5MB 
PDF because it has 23 pictures in it. Hope it can be of as much help to the C&C 
community as the C&C community has been to me. 

Cheers, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grendine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

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Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

You can kill mold with bleach.  You can prevent mold by allowing air to
circulate through the boat.  Here in the Pacific NW, we get lots of rain in
the fall and winter, but I get no mold in the main cabin.  I do get some in
the head if I don't leave the door ajar.

Alan Bergen
356 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 10:15 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Greetings folks,
> I've discovered that I'm getting a slight mold growth on the inside glass
> (GRF) in the off season.  Can anyone suggest a mild cleaner that won't
> scratch the GRF?  I'm worried that something harsh might leave microscopic
> pits that would promote more mold growth in the off season.
> Also, does anyone wax or otherwise protect the inside glass?  And if so,
> what do you use?
> What about the textured ceiling?
> I might have to replace my scuppers to effect prevention.  I never had it
> before, but now since I've lost all three scupper horns, I've sealed up the
> holes to stop critters from nesting and suddenly I'm getting mold.
> Thanks
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.
> paypal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN
> 0H8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
> kpvN9AyJsD1ERkp11wGwte9QLDvGoBHwLod83GRVGr0&s=
> YHj1qJds1IiyY5rrJb5EaTjLuVnhhPSQT4XvGnCbBaU&e=
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Clorox wipes work great!

Joel


Virus-free.
www.avg.com

<#DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>

On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 1:36 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You can kill mold with bleach.  You can prevent mold by allowing air to
> circulate through the boat.  Here in the Pacific NW, we get lots of rain in
> the fall and winter, but I get no mold in the main cabin.  I do get some in
> the head if I don't leave the door ajar.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 356 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 10:15 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Greetings folks,
>> I've discovered that I'm getting a slight mold growth on the inside glass
>> (GRF) in the off season.  Can anyone suggest a mild cleaner that won't
>> scratch the GRF?  I'm worried that something harsh might leave microscopic
>> pits that would promote more mold growth in the off season.
>> Also, does anyone wax or otherwise protect the inside glass?  And if so,
>> what do you use?
>> What about the textured ceiling?
>> I might have to replace my scuppers to effect prevention.  I never had it
>> before, but now since I've lost all three scupper horns, I've sealed up the
>> holes to stop critters from nesting and suddenly I'm getting mold.
>> Thanks
>> Ron
>> Wild Cheri
>> C&C 30-1
>> STL
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://urldefense.proofpoint.com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.pay
>> pal.me_stumurray&d=DwICAg&c=clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H
>> 8p7CSfnc_gI&r=9w3G7Cf8YfQnrjmtuNxwDJYr3JMv9f1pAfgAJ9xXYQQ&m=
>> kpvN9AyJsD1ERkp11wGwte9QLDvGoBHwLod83GRVGr0&s=YHj1qJds1IiyY5
>> rrJb5EaTjLuVnhhPSQT4XvGnCbBaU&e=
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Anyone near St. Joseph, Michigan?

[Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List]

Neil,

I appreciate your offer, but isn't White Lake 100+ miles from St. Joseph?
The boat is at Anchor's Way and listed on Yachtworld & craigslist. I'm not
quite at the point of taking you up on your offer as I'm awaiting the
sellers response to some questions I've asked. I'm sure you've seen the for
sale listings where every little detail is provided, this isn't one of
them. And some of the information that's provided is just wrong.

On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 8:39 AM, schiller via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Richard,
>
> I am about 30 miles from St. Joe.  Just went to Wolf's Marine in Benton
> Harbor on Wednesday.  Where is the boat and what is your time frame?  I
> could go over and take a look and snap a few pictures for you.
>
> We used to be in South Haven.  Just up the coast, but have since moved
> north to White Lake.
>
> Neil Schiller
> 1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
> (C&C 35, Mark I)
> "Corsair"
> White Lake, Michigan
>
> On 4/28/2017 9:16 AM, Richard Gotthardt via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Was wondering if there is anyone near St. Joseph, Michigan that could take
> a cursory look at a C&C 33 Mk2 for me. I'm on the other side of Lake
> Michigan and would like to know that it's not a total waste of time before
> making the trip over there to look at it. I'm sure I could do something to
> make it worth your time. Thanks.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

My thru-the-mast fitting is located about 3 feet above the spreaders. The 
downhaul is mid deck (about 2 feet forward of the cabin) on a folding pad-eye. 
I have a block there and the line runs back along the cabin (one fairlead at 
the front/side of the dorade box and another at the rear) to a rope clutch next 
to the companionway. The uphaul exits the side of the mast to a block at the 
mast base and then a turning block (along with the main halyard) back to the 
three clutches.

 

However, if you are not planning on racing, I would rig a pole ring on the 
mast, get a pole, and get an asymmetrical chute. That way, you can easily run 
the chute from a block at the bow when reaching and use the pole to put the 
tack of the spinnaker out to weather when running. Best of both worlds and a 
lot less fuss than a sheet/guy arrangement and uphaul/downhaul for the pole.

 

Gary  30-1 #593

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Brown via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, April 28, 2017 11:28 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Michael Brown 
Subject: Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

 

I will be prepping my mast next week and could take measurements. I doubt you 
would
want to mount a normal block on the front of the mast if you are carrying an 
overlapping
headsail. It will rub and maybe catch on every tack. The 30-1 factory spinnaker 
uphaul
fitting was a feedthrough with less to catch.

While far from optimum if you are looking to try some light wind downwind 
cruising you
could try it with a simple fixed setup. I have seen some boats use a fixed ring 
to mount
the spinnaker pole to the mast and a similar ring further up with a line looped 
through it
for the uphaul. It doesn't adjust much under load, but that may be fine for 
you. It is also
cheap and won't snag your headsail. You will need a downhaul / foreguy. The can 
work
from a block on the toerail, maybe a forward eye if you have one mounted. I use 
a block
on the base of the mast, fix the line on the starboard side of the mast, up to 
a block on
the spinnaker bridle, then down to a block on the port side of the mast and 
then to the
cockpit. Somewhat strange but it allows sheeting the pole forward and back 
without
having to adjust the downhaul.

Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
 

Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2017 07:41:02 -0400 
From: Kevin Deluzio mailto:kevin.delu...@gmail.com> > 

Hi All, 
This is my second season with my new to me 1980 30-1. I would like to rig 
it for a spinnaker this year. Not interested in racing with one, but I like the 
idea of using it for light winds downwind sailing. So I have to install a block 
for the pole lift and I?m wondering where to install it. In the C&C manual it 
shows the pole lift at 22?-0? above the ?black line? at base of mast. But I 
don?t have a black line on my mast, not at the base (which I assume is around 
the height of boom?) nor at the top of my mast. Does anyone know where I would 
locate these black lines? or the height of the topping lift from some other 
reference point? My second question is where to mount the pole downhaul 
(foreguy) - a? Thanks for this. 

By the way, love the list, such a great source of information. And here?s to 
all the other C&C owners out there who?s arms are a sore as mine this time of 
year as we get these boats ready for launch. 


Kevin Deluzio 
S/V Solevento 
C&C30-1 #641 
Kingston, ON 

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Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Anybody have any thoughts on the parasailor?

http://www.parasailor.com/us/products/parasailor.html

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Apr 28, 2017 7:41 AM, "Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi All,
> This is my second season with my new to me 1980 30-1. I would like
> to rig it for a spinnaker this year. Not interested in racing with one, but
> I like the idea of using it for light winds downwind sailing. So I have to
> install a block for the pole lift and I’m wondering where to install it. In
> the C&C manual it shows the pole lift at 22’-0” above the ‘black line’ at
> base of mast. But I don’t have a black line on my mast, not at the base
> (which I assume is around the height of boom?) nor at the top of my mast.
> Does anyone know where I would locate these black lines? or the height of
> the topping lift from some other reference point? My second question is
> where to mount the pole downhaul (foreguy) - a? Thanks for this.
>
> By the way, love the list, such a great source of information. And here’s
> to all the other C&C owners out there who’s arms are a sore as mine this
> time of year as we get these boats ready for launch.
>
>
> Kevin Deluzio
> S/V Solevento
> C&C30-1 #641
> Kingston, ON
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Others have expressed their appreciation for an asymmetric spinnacker which
I also echo.  All of their points are valid, however you may find that the
effort involved with setting the A-sym just isn't worth the mild
improvement in speed/performance over an oversized headsail and whisker
pole.  Many of the parts required for a whisker pole are the same as that
for a spinnaker pole and some of the functions of a spinnaker pole can be
accomplished with a whisker pole.  The downside to an A-sym is that in
order to jibe you have to either pull the clew in between the headstay and
the spinnaker luff or on the outside of the spinnaker luff.  Either way
this maneuver can be tricky and is a good way to earn yourself a spinnaker
wrap on the headstay.  I've also found that typically the deepest I can
steadily fly my a-sym is 150°.  If I pole out my 145 headsail I can
accomplish nearly the same performance at the same point of sail.  True
downwind sailing is best achieved with a true symmetrical spinnaker, but
the tough question is, "Just because you can point deeper downwind, are you
making a faster VMG or CS?"  Do you have enough crew and hands to
successfully handle a symmetrical spinnaker, or any spinnaker for that
matter?

Having a pole of an type is nice if you decide to lift things on/off the
foredeck such as a dingy.  Either a whisker pole or spinnaker pole will
require a track and ring on the mast to hold one end of the pole, a rope to
lift/hold the pole horizontal (topping lift), a rope to prevent the sail
from flying up (a downhaul).

I installed a Furlex Furler years ago and simply cannot rave loudly enough
about the quality and engineering which I experienced.  Consider the mast
exit sheave for your topping lift.

http://www.seldenmast.com/index.php?id=4691
Page 25, sheave boxes

Since these sheave boxes will cause 1 or 2 more lines to run inside of the
mast you'll need mast exits.  Again, Selden has innovative solutions called
slot fittings also found on page 25.

Any type of spinnaker should be hauled higher and hopefully forward of the
headsail.   Assuming that you already have a second sheave at the top of
the mast, a typical furler setup will prevent the headsail from reaching
the sheave boxes.  Selden makes a crain for holding the spin halyard block
forward of the headsail halyard which you might also find useful to prevent
jams and snags on the swivel and headstay.

Attaching the topping lift to the pole:  If a spin-pole then there is a
bridle which positions the topping life in the middle of the pole.  This
bridle is mirrored on the bottom for the downhaul.  If it's a whisker pole
then the topping lift is attached as near to the end of the largest section
with a strap and mirrored on the bottom for the downhaul.  In either case
the topping lift sheave box should be installed high enough that you don't
create too sharp of an angle to the pole.  Basically as high as possible
but avoid going lower than that which would create a 45° angle or less.
You want to pull up more than aft.  With a simple deck fitting or deck
bridle you can even use the topping lift to fly tri-sails in stormy
weather.  With that in mind you might consider deck fitting placement
before deciding on a final height for your topping lift sheave box.

This deck fitting can be where you attach the downhaul.  In my experience
you'll simply have a turning block attached to the deck fitting and a
turning block on the rail.  With the pole all the way forward to the
headstay your downhaul will run nearly vertical from its own attachment on
the poll (bridle or end fitting, spinnaker or whisker pole respectively),
down to the turning block, over to the rail, back to some cleat near the
cockpit.  Placement of the rail turning block is dependent on the clear
passage to the final destination, which means that you could place the
second turning block inboard of the rail or even on the cabin top if
desired.  Typically only hand tight is needed so winches and fancy jammers
are unnecessary.  You could of course run the downhaul, similar to a
furling line, on stantion fairleads.

As for black lines, they are used to show to race committee and other
racers that your sails don't extend past the length and height for which
the boat was handycapped - luff and foot length. Top of the mast and aft
end of the boom.  I've never noticed a black tape at the bottom of the
mast.  It seems redundant since the lowest point which you can place the
mainsail tack is typically fixed at the boom attachment.  Likewise for the
boom - no black tape towards the mast, just the aft end.  That being said,
some boats have been designed with a sliding boom track which allows
raising and lowering the boom on the mast.  I suppose in this case you
would need a lower tape on the mast.  That lower tape would be at the
lowest point where the tack could ever be.  In your case I would measure 22
feet above the boom and then consider all of my previously stated points on
sheave placem

Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Andrew Burton via CnC-List]

Snake Oil! Seriously. Stay away from it. Their claims are bunk.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI 
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Apr 28, 2017, at 18:36, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Anybody have any thoughts on the parasailor?
> 
> http://www.parasailor.com/us/products/parasailor.html
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Apr 28, 2017 7:41 AM, "Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List" 
>>  wrote:
>> Hi All,
>> This is my second season with my new to me 1980 30-1. I would like 
>> to rig it for a spinnaker this year. Not interested in racing with one, but 
>> I like the idea of using it for light winds downwind sailing. So I have to 
>> install a block for the pole lift and I’m wondering where to install it. In 
>> the C&C manual it shows the pole lift at 22’-0” above the ‘black line’ at 
>> base of mast. But I don’t have a black line on my mast, not at the base 
>> (which I assume is around the height of boom?) nor at the top of my mast. 
>> Does anyone know where I would locate these black lines? or the height of 
>> the topping lift from some other reference point? My second question is 
>> where to mount the pole downhaul (foreguy) - a? Thanks for this.
>> 
>> By the way, love the list, such a great source of information. And here’s to 
>> all the other C&C owners out there who’s arms are a sore as mine this time 
>> of year as we get these boats ready for launch.
>> 
>> 
>> Kevin Deluzio
>> S/V Solevento
>> C&C30-1 #641
>> Kingston, ON
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List spinnaker rig

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Really?  wow!  I'd love to hear more about your experience.

Josh

On Apr 28, 2017 9:39 PM, "Andrew Burton via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Snake Oil! Seriously. Stay away from it. Their claims are bunk.
> Andy
> C&C 40
> Peregrine
>
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett
> Newport, RI
> USA02840
>
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> +401 965-5260
>
> On Apr 28, 2017, at 18:36, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Anybody have any thoughts on the parasailor?
>
> http://www.parasailor.com/us/products/parasailor.html
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Apr 28, 2017 7:41 AM, "Kevin Deluzio via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi All,
>> This is my second season with my new to me 1980 30-1. I would
>> like to rig it for a spinnaker this year. Not interested in racing with
>> one, but I like the idea of using it for light winds downwind sailing. So I
>> have to install a block for the pole lift and I’m wondering where to
>> install it. In the C&C manual it shows the pole lift at 22’-0” above the
>> ‘black line’ at base of mast. But I don’t have a black line on my mast, not
>> at the base (which I assume is around the height of boom?) nor at the top
>> of my mast. Does anyone know where I would locate these black lines? or the
>> height of the topping lift from some other reference point? My second
>> question is where to mount the pole downhaul (foreguy) - a? Thanks for this.
>>
>> By the way, love the list, such a great source of information. And here’s
>> to all the other C&C owners out there who’s arms are a sore as mine this
>> time of year as we get these boats ready for launch.
>>
>>
>> Kevin Deluzio
>> S/V Solevento
>> C&C30-1 #641
>> Kingston, ON
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside

[sender via CnC-List]

There is a product called Mold Control available at Canadian Tire and other
hardware stores.  Clean surfaces conventionally and then you spray it on
and let it dry on the surface.  As it dries, it kills the mold spoors.  It
kills the mold and little else.  When i first tried it at home I found it
was more effective than bleach in so much as the chronically moldy window
sill in our bathroom remained mold free longer.

Chlorine bleach, on the other hand, kills the mold and everything else.  It
damages most surfaces and materials,at least to some small degree, and the
compounds in the fumes are potential health hazards.

On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 10:15 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Greetings folks,
> I've discovered that I'm getting a slight mold growth on the inside glass
> (GRF) in the off season.  Can anyone suggest a mild cleaner that won't
> scratch the GRF?  I'm worried that something harsh might leave microscopic
> pits that would promote more mold growth in the off season.
> Also, does anyone wax or otherwise protect the inside glass?  And if so,
> what do you use?
> What about the textured ceiling?
> I might have to replace my scuppers to effect prevention.  I never had it
> before, but now since I've lost all three scupper horns, I've sealed up the
> holes to stop critters from nesting and suddenly I'm getting mold.
> Thanks
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

Don't know if they have that here.What's the active ingredient(s)?RonWild 
CheriC&C 30-1STL


  From: sender via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: sender 
 Sent: Friday, April 28, 2017 10:58 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside
   
There is a product called Mold Control available at Canadian Tire and other 
hardware stores.  Clean surfaces conventionally and then you spray it on and 
let it dry on the surface.  As it dries, it kills the mold spoors.  It kills 
the mold and little else.  When i first tried it at home I found it was more 
effective than bleach in so much as the chronically moldy window sill in our 
bathroom remained mold free longer. 
Chlorine bleach, on the other hand, kills the mold and everything else.  It 
damages most surfaces and materials,at least to some small degree, and the 
compounds in the fumes are potential health hazards.
On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 10:15 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Greetings folks,I've discovered that I'm getting a slight mold growth on the 
inside glass (GRF) in the off season.  Can anyone suggest a mild cleaner that 
won't scratch the GRF?  I'm worried that something harsh might leave 
microscopic pits that would promote more mold growth in the off season.Also, 
does anyone wax or otherwise protect the inside glass?  And if so, what do you 
use?What about the textured ceiling?I might have to replace my scuppers to 
effect prevention.  I never had it before, but now since I've lost all three 
scupper horns, I've sealed up the holes to stop critters from nesting and 
suddenly I'm getting mold.ThanksRon Wild CheriC&C 30-1STL


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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside

[sender via CnC-List]

Ron:
I'm not sure what's in it.  I doubt it's unique, surely there are lots of
similar products out there.

I guess my point was that as much as bleach is the old standard, it does
sometimes cause collateral damage.  Also as soon as the chlorine reacts or
evaporates, it done and gone.  Whereas the specialty product I tried seems
to offer some persistent resistance to re-growth.

If you can't find a specialty product designed specifically for mold at a
local hardware store, you could try a janitorial supply house, or Acklands
Grainger.

Eric

On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 10:06 PM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don't know if they have that here.
> What's the active ingredient(s)?
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> --
> *From:* sender via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* sender 
> *Sent:* Friday, April 28, 2017 10:58 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Slight mold inside
>
> There is a product called Mold Control available at Canadian Tire and
> other hardware stores.  Clean surfaces conventionally and then you spray it
> on and let it dry on the surface.  As it dries, it kills the mold spoors.
> It kills the mold and little else.  When i first tried it at home I found
> it was more effective than bleach in so much as the chronically moldy
> window sill in our bathroom remained mold free longer.
>
> Chlorine bleach, on the other hand, kills the mold and everything else.
> It damages most surfaces and materials,at least to some small degree, and
> the compounds in the fumes are potential health hazards.
>
> On Fri, Apr 28, 2017 at 10:15 AM, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Greetings folks,
> I've discovered that I'm getting a slight mold growth on the inside glass
> (GRF) in the off season.  Can anyone suggest a mild cleaner that won't
> scratch the GRF?  I'm worried that something harsh might leave microscopic
> pits that would promote more mold growth in the off season.
> Also, does anyone wax or otherwise protect the inside glass?  And if so,
> what do you use?
> What about the textured ceiling?
> I might have to replace my scuppers to effect prevention.  I never had it
> before, but now since I've lost all three scupper horns, I've sealed up the
> holes to stop critters from nesting and suddenly I'm getting mold.
> Thanks
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C&C 30-1
> STL
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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