Stus-List Vendee globe

[Dave via CnC-List]

Nice short video here on one of the imoca 60s which will be competing in the 
planet's more incredible sporting event - starts soon.   

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x50ghcm_daily-summary-4-days-to-go-vendee-globe-2016_sport#tab_embed



Sent from my iPad___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Vendee globe

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I like blue water sailing, but that's WAY to much for me!
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 6:41 AM, Dave via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Nice short video here on one of the imoca 60s which will be competing in
> the planet's more incredible sporting event - starts soon.
>
> http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x50ghcm_daily-summary-4-
> days-to-go-vendee-globe-2016_sport#tab_embed
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List]

Also you could install an oil pressure gauge so you know what the pressure 
really is.  The alarm is like the idiot light on your car ... if it sounds 
there is likely a problem but if it is broken you blithely assume all is good.  
I once had a car where the bulb for the engine light was burned out.



To install a gauge you use the same hole as the oil pressure sender.  Then you 
Tee that and put sender on one side of tee and gauge on other.  When in doubt 
you just take a quick look at the gauge.



I have a picture of the gauge installed on Persistence website.   You can see 
the picture in the gallery link here 
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm



Mike

Persistence

Halifax

http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt



-Original Message-

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Michael 
Crombie via CnC-List

Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2016 6:43 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: mcrom...@bell.blackberry.net

Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch





For the non-mechanic; The oil pressure alarm should sound for a second or two 
when you start your engine and then shut off. (Assuming your alarm speaker, 
wiring, and ignition circuit are all ok)



Or you can disconnect the wire from the sending unit and measure the resistance 
from the sending unit to ground. It should be 0 when the engine is shut down 
and infinite when the engine is running.



Mike





Sent wirelessly from my BlackBerry device on the Bell network.

Envoyé sans fil par mon terminal mobile BlackBerry sur le réseau de Bell.
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Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Rick,

Thanks for the info. As far as those tang (toggles?) fittings that were used on 
our rigs, it was explained to me that they were a cause of rig failures. The 
caps were designed to move in tandem with the rod but given that they were a 
combination of stainless steel and aluminum they quickly seized up and cause 
the neck of the rod to be nicked and weakened. Hence the newer K200 style of 
tang which I converted to. Like John Sandford, I had to break all of the 
original K100 tangs to get them out of the mast. 

Interestingly, I was thinking Dyform when the rigger started to discuss 
replacements but he specifically said that it was not Dyform (which he called 
old technology…) so that’s why I’m at a loss to understand what the type of 
standing rigging it is. I’ll find out in a week or two when we get together to 
go over my rig.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Nov 3, 2016, at 11:12 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Dave;
>  
> Could he have been referring to Dyform wire? That is a multi-strand wire made 
> of individual wires that are sort of wedge shaped in cross section, so the 
> strands are packed more densely than in conventional wire. It has both 
> smaller diameter and greater tensile strength than conventional wire.
>  
> I had my 38 rerigged in about 2011, after one of the toggles in my rig broke 
> during a race in windy and rough conditions. The  old toggles may or may not 
> have been original and also may have been of a generation that was recalled 
> and replaced by Navtec. But I began to doubt the integrity of my (then) 35 
> year old rod rigging.
>  
> Navtec says that dye testing is not adequate on old rod, and recommended 
> replacement of rod over something like 20 years old. Their suggestion was to 
> remove the rod , coil it on a pallet (I think it was Dennis C who said a coil 
> of 200x rod diameter) with a coil about 5’ diameter, and ship it to them for 
> non-destructive testing (X-ray, I think), and they would ship it back. Cost 
> would have been about $3500 plus the cost of reheading or replacement 
> depending on what the Navtec testing showed.
>  
> My rigger suggested Dyform wire as a high value alternative. The wire turns 
> out to be about 1/16th larger in diameter than the #10 rod (so slightly more 
> windage) but also has a higher tensile strength than the rod it replaces. 
> Rigger swaged on ends that fit the existing tangs in the mast, and used 
> Sta-Loc fittings on the lower end so the wire could be cut to the proper 
> lengths. 
>  
> Turns out that replacing the rod headstay with wire was probably a good idea. 
> Maker of my furler (Bamar) recommends not using a rod headstay. They say that 
> grit & dirt that gets into the bearings in the foil can score the rod and 
> create stress risers that can lead to rod failure. The recommend installing a 
> wire headstay if you have one of their roller furlers.
>  
> All up cost for the Dyform wire rerigging of my 38 was about $3900 – just 
> $400 more than the estimate from Navtec and the rigger for the R&R of the 
> rod, shipping & inspection. Semmed like a good idea – and a lot less costly 
> that reheading/replacing the rod.
>  
> Rick Brass
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, November 03, 2016 12:43 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Dave Godwin mailto:dave.god...@me.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>  
> He mentioned some sort of new small diameter rod/wire standing rigging as a 
> replacement but I failed to catch the name. Unless he can really convince me 
> that it is better, I’m inclined to replace all the rod. The boat and rig were 
> designed for rod. And I’ve already put money into new tangs. One thing that I 
> did do back in 1999 was replace the forestay with wire due to a nick in the 
> rod and adding a roller furling setup.
>  
>  
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Any thoughts on going to Dyneema for standing rigging?

http://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/12/29/the-best-material-for-synthetic-standing-rigging

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> On Nov 4, 2016, at 6:24 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: Dave Godwin 
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
> Message-ID: <045b0bfd-04e2-4bf8-83f0-cb40b4e78...@me.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Rick,
> 
> Thanks for the info. As far as those tang (toggles?) fittings that were used 
> on our rigs, it was explained to me that they were a cause of rig failures. 
> The caps were designed to move in tandem with the rod but given that they 
> were a combination of stainless steel and aluminum they quickly seized up and 
> cause the neck of the rod to be nicked and weakened. Hence the newer K200 
> style of tang which I converted to. Like John Sandford, I had to break all of 
> the original K100 tangs to get them out of the mast. 
> 
> Interestingly, I was thinking Dyform when the rigger started to discuss 
> replacements but he specifically said that it was not Dyform (which he called 
> old technology?) so that?s why I?m at a loss to understand what the type of 
> standing rigging it is. I?ll find out in a week or two when we get together 
> to go over my rig.
> 
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin?s Overdue Refit 
>> On Nov 3, 2016, at 11:12 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

Tom,

As a person in the rope business, the information included in the attached 
article is spot on, but he neglects to include the most commonly used fiber for 
standing rigging: PBO aka Zylon.   Zylon has virtually no creep and is 
extremely strong and light.  However,  Inherent in PBO rigging is very poor UV 
resistance and the cost of the material itself along with the highly 
specialized terminals used in affixing the stays and shrouds to the spars and 
boat can drive the price into the tens of thousands.  As such, PBO rigging is 
often seen with a vinyl coating that runs the length of the shroud to prevent 
UV degradation.  Also, the servicing intervals for retiring PBO and Dyneema 
standing rigging is far more frequent than equivalent steel wire or rod.  Even 
so, look at any high performance Grand Prix boat where every ounce 
counts(Vendee Globe, America’s Cup, Volvo Ocean Race, Sydney Hobart, etc.) and 
the top of the fleet will all be using PBO standing rigging.

 

You will find Dyneema, mostly heat set like Dynex Dux being used as standing 
rigging in lightweight performance catamarans, but often these boat will have 
masts that are frequently un-stepped for transportation and trailering.  
Lightweight is a factor as well.   Rather than using heavy stainless 
turnbuckles, tension is achieved with lightweight deadeyes and lashings.  All 
this translates to great advantages for high performance race machines, but 
dubious value to heavy displacement cruiser/racers.  Just like most materials, 
there’s always trade offs that one must make in technologies.  Between managing 
the creep and tensioning of the shrouds along with devising proper terminations 
that can be used on existing chainplates, I’m sure there are riggers that will 
gladly accept your boat dollars to figure it all out.   For sure, I would avoid 
using any synthetic standing rigging on any headstay that would be encapsulated 
or attached to a jib furler with a foil.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 35 Landfall

Padanaram, MA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 1:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

 

Any thoughts on going to Dyneema for standing rigging?

 

http://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/12/29/the-best-material-for-synthetic-standing-rigging

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 


On Nov 4, 2016, at 6:24 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:

From: Dave Godwin mailto:dave.god...@me.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
Message-ID: <045b0bfd-04e2-4bf8-83f0-cb40b4e78...@me.com 
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Rick,

Thanks for the info. As far as those tang (toggles?) fittings that were used on 
our rigs, it was explained to me that they were a cause of rig failures. The 
caps were designed to move in tandem with the rod but given that they were a 
combination of stainless steel and aluminum they quickly seized up and cause 
the neck of the rod to be nicked and weakened. Hence the newer K200 style of 
tang which I converted to. Like John Sandford, I had to break all of the 
original K100 tangs to get them out of the mast. 

Interestingly, I was thinking Dyform when the rigger started to discuss 
replacements but he specifically said that it was not Dyform (which he called 
old technology?) so that?s why I?m at a loss to understand what the type of 
standing rigging it is. I?ll find out in a week or two when we get together to 
go over my rig.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin?s Overdue Refit 



On Nov 3, 2016, at 11:12 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

Seeing as how synthetic rope lifelines got banned due to being sawed apart by 
chafe, I think I would stick with stainless steel. YMMV.
Joe
Coquina


From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
Gilchrest via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2016 1:53 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

Tom,
As a person in the rope business, the information included in the attached 
article is spot on, but he neglects to include the most commonly used fiber for 
standing rigging: PBO aka Zylon.   Zylon has virtually no creep and is 
extremely strong and light.  However,  Inherent in PBO rigging is very poor UV 
resistance and the cost of the material itself along with the highly 
specialized terminals used in affixing the stays and shrouds to the spars and 
boat can drive the price into the tens of thousands.  As such, PBO rigging is 
often seen with a vinyl coating that runs the length of the shroud to prevent 
UV degradation.  Also, the servicing intervals for retiring PBO and Dyneema 
standing rigging is far more frequent than equivalent steel wire or rod.  Even 
so, look at any high performance Grand Prix boat where every ounce 
counts(Vendee Globe, America’s Cup, Volvo Ocean Race, Sydney Hobart, etc.) and 
the top of the fleet will all be using PBO standing rigging.

You will find Dyneema, mostly heat set like Dynex Dux being used as standing 
rigging in lightweight performance catamarans, but often these boat will have 
masts that are frequently un-stepped for transportation and trailering.  
Lightweight is a factor as well.   Rather than using heavy stainless 
turnbuckles, tension is achieved with lightweight deadeyes and lashings.  All 
this translates to great advantages for high performance race machines, but 
dubious value to heavy displacement cruiser/racers.  Just like most materials, 
there’s always trade offs that one must make in technologies.  Between managing 
the creep and tensioning of the shrouds along with devising proper terminations 
that can be used on existing chainplates, I’m sure there are riggers that will 
gladly accept your boat dollars to figure it all out.   For sure, I would avoid 
using any synthetic standing rigging on any headstay that would be encapsulated 
or attached to a jib furler with a foil.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 1:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia mailto:t...@sv-alera.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

Any thoughts on going to Dyneema for standing rigging?

http://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/12/29/the-best-material-for-synthetic-standing-rigging
Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


On Nov 4, 2016, at 6:24 AM, 
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
From: Dave Godwin mailto:dave.god...@me.com>>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
Message-ID: 
<045b0bfd-04e2-4bf8-83f0-cb40b4e78...@me.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Rick,

Thanks for the info. As far as those tang (toggles?) fittings that were used on 
our rigs, it was explained to me that they were a cause of rig failures. The 
caps were designed to move in tandem with the rod but given that they were a 
combination of stainless steel and aluminum they quickly seized up and cause 
the neck of the rod to be nicked and weakened. Hence the newer K200 style of 
tang which I converted to. Like John Sandford, I had to break all of the 
original K100 tangs to get them out of the mast.

Interestingly, I was thinking Dyform when the rigger started to discuss 
replacements but he specifically said that it was not Dyform (which he called 
old technology?) so that?s why I?m at a loss to understand what the type of 
standing rigging it is. I?ll find out in a week or two when we get together to 
go over my rig.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin?s Overdue Refit 
On Nov 3, 2016, at 11:12 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List 30MKII. For sale

[Robert Gallagher via CnC-List]

Not sure if I'm doing the right thing but I've listed my pride and joy with
a broker.  I'm hoping to move up to a larger boat that is as well built,
reliable and fast

 http://www.spicersbrokerage.com/

Rob Gallagher
860-389-6900
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30MKII. For sale

[Graham Young via CnC-List]

That is a fine looking boat you have there Rob.  It must be tough to part with 
her.  If she weren't so salty, I would consider her as I am looking for 
something with a shallower draft.  
I have my C&C 32 for sale here on Lake Erie.  Haven't gone with a broker yet as 
I'm trying to sell her myself first...so far a few tire kickers.  May have to 
go with a broker in the Spring.
Best of luck.
Graham YoungS/V Spellbound1981 C&C 32 #107
 

On Friday, November 4, 2016 4:01 PM, Robert Gallagher via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 Not sure if I'm doing the right thing but I've listed my pride and joy with a 
broker.  I'm hoping to move up to a larger boat that is as well built, reliable 
and fast 
 http://www.spicersbrokerage.com/
Rob Gallagher860-389-6900
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


   ___

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Vendee globe

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

But it’s like comparing a sporty drive on a winding mountain road in a nice 
roadster to an F1 race. Kind of the same, but not really.

Marek
in Ottawa, ON

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 08:20
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Vendee globe

I like blue water sailing, but that's WAY to much for me!
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 6:41 AM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
Nice short video here on one of the imoca 60s which will be competing in the 
planet's more incredible sporting event - starts soon.

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x50ghcm_daily-summary-4-days-to-go-vendee-globe-2016_sport#tab_embed



Sent from my iPad

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Tom,

Back from taping and masking the deck. No-one told my how much time this will 
take. Yeesh.

What Chuck said. I did some fun what-ifs on non-steel standing rigging and 
pretty much came to the same conclusion. Not really appropriate for a 34-year 
old cruiser.

I am going to be replacing all my lifelines, after replacing all the old 
stanchions, (Oy!) with New England Ropes STS-WR2 Dyneema. 

  At the same time I’m having the rigger fabricate a new baby-stay tie-down out 
of the same material. The original Navtec rod rigging section that attached the 
baby-stay track to the stringer in the forward cabin gave up the ghost long ago.

Still leaning towards replacing all the existing standing rigging with newer 
Navtec rod.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Nov 4, 2016, at 1:56 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Seeing as how synthetic rope lifelines got banned due to being sawed apart by 
> chafe, I think I would stick with stainless steel. YMMV.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck 
> Gilchrest via CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, November 04, 2016 1:53 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>  
> Tom,
> As a person in the rope business, the information included in the attached 
> article is spot on, but he neglects to include the most commonly used fiber 
> for standing rigging: PBO aka Zylon.   Zylon has virtually no creep and is 
> extremely strong and light.  However,  Inherent in PBO rigging is very poor 
> UV resistance and the cost of the material itself along with the highly 
> specialized terminals used in affixing the stays and shrouds to the spars and 
> boat can drive the price into the tens of thousands.  As such, PBO rigging is 
> often seen with a vinyl coating that runs the length of the shroud to prevent 
> UV degradation.  Also, the servicing intervals for retiring PBO and Dyneema 
> standing rigging is far more frequent than equivalent steel wire or rod.  
> Even so, look at any high performance Grand Prix boat where every ounce 
> counts(Vendee Globe, America’s Cup, Volvo Ocean Race, Sydney Hobart, etc.) 
> and the top of the fleet will all be using PBO standing rigging.
>  
> You will find Dyneema, mostly heat set like Dynex Dux being used as standing 
> rigging in lightweight performance catamarans, but often these boat will have 
> masts that are frequently un-stepped for transportation and trailering.  
> Lightweight is a factor as well.   Rather than using heavy stainless 
> turnbuckles, tension is achieved with lightweight deadeyes and lashings.  All 
> this translates to great advantages for high performance race machines, but 
> dubious value to heavy displacement cruiser/racers.  Just like most 
> materials, there’s always trade offs that one must make in technologies.  
> Between managing the creep and tensioning of the shrouds along with devising 
> proper terminations that can be used on existing chainplates, I’m sure there 
> are riggers that will gladly accept your boat dollars to figure it all out.   
> For sure, I would avoid using any synthetic standing rigging on any headstay 
> that would be encapsulated or attached to a jib furler with a foil.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> S/V Half Magic
> 1983 35 Landfall
> Padanaram, MA
>  
>  
>   <>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Tom Buscaglia via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 1:02 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Tom Buscaglia mailto:t...@sv-alera.com>>
> Subject: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>  
> Any thoughts on going to Dyneema for standing rigging?
>  
> http://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/12/29/the-best-material-for-synthetic-standing-rigging
>  
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
>  
> 
> On Nov 4, 2016, at 6:24 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
>  wrote:
> 
> From: Dave Godwin mailto:dave.god...@me.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
> Message-ID: <045b0bfd-04e2-4bf8-83f0-cb40b4e78...@me.com 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Rick,
> 
> Thanks for the info. As far as those tang (toggles?) fittings that were used 
> on our rigs, it was explained to me that they were a cause of rig failures. 
> The caps were designed to move in tandem with the rod but given that they 
> were a combination of stainless steel

Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

First, I checked out Mike's link and Persistence is a sharp looking boat.
I'm partial to the color as Patriot is also dark blue with a red boot stripe
and gold cove stripe.  Patriot also caught a line around the shaft resulting
in multiple B.O.A.T. units to straighten the strut and replace the shaft.

 

I've been considering adding a the ability to read oil pressure by adding
the appropriate transducer and NMEA 2000 interface.  To me, the existing
pressure switch setup is not necessarily 'fail-safe'.  Probably the most
difficult thing will be to find an appropriate tee (Japanese threads).  I
wonder if any other lister has found a tee that works with a Yanmar engine?

 

Thanks to all listers for your feedback,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

(978) 877-0369

  ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Hoyt,
Mike via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 4, 2016 8:20 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Hoyt, Mike
Subject: Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

 

Also you could install an oil pressure gauge so you know what the pressure
really is.  The alarm is like the idiot light on your car ... if it sounds
there is likely a problem but if it is broken you blithely assume all is
good.  I once had a car where the bulb for the engine light was burned out.

 

To install a gauge you use the same hole as the oil pressure sender.  Then
you Tee that and put sender on one side of tee and gauge on other.  When in
doubt you just take a quick look at the gauge.

 

I have a picture of the gauge installed on Persistence website.   You can
see the picture in the gallery link here
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm

 

Mike

Persistence

Halifax

http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt

 

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

A friend who has circumnavigated several times has rerigged his 39’ steel 
cutter with Dyneema for the shrouds.

 

Very strong, light, straightforward to splice. Definitely DIY. And having extra 
material aboard to make emergency replacements for rigging is very easy. I 
think I recall the project cost more than replacement with stainless wire and 
swaged fitting, but I can’t swear to that.

 

He found it a bit of a problem to source the proper hardware to connect the 
Dyneema to the toggles in the mast and the turnbuckles at the chain plates. But 
the hardware was available – probably more so now than 3 or 4 years ago.

 

Since the install he has spent a winter in the islands and made a trip up the 
East Coast, across the Atlantic to Portugal, into the Med, and back across the 
Atlantic. He told me he has had to adjust the rig tension periodically, 
apparently because the Dyneema is slippery and the splices tend to creep under 
load when subjected to cyclic loading from waves. 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom 
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2016 1:02 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

 

Any thoughts on going to Dyneema for standing rigging?

 

http://www.riggingdoctor.com/life-aboard/2015/12/29/the-best-material-for-synthetic-standing-rigging

Tom Buscaglia

S/V Alera 

1990 C&C 37+/40

Vashon WA

P 206.463.9200

C 305.409.3660

 


On Nov 4, 2016, at 6:24 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
  wrote:

From: Dave Godwin mailto:dave.god...@me.com> >
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com  
Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
Message-ID: <045b0bfd-04e2-4bf8-83f0-cb40b4e78...@me.com 
 >
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Rick,

Thanks for the info. As far as those tang (toggles?) fittings that were used on 
our rigs, it was explained to me that they were a cause of rig failures. The 
caps were designed to move in tandem with the rod but given that they were a 
combination of stainless steel and aluminum they quickly seized up and cause 
the neck of the rod to be nicked and weakened. Hence the newer K200 style of 
tang which I converted to. Like John Sandford, I had to break all of the 
original K100 tangs to get them out of the mast. 

Interestingly, I was thinking Dyform when the rigger started to discuss 
replacements but he specifically said that it was not Dyform (which he called 
old technology?) so that?s why I?m at a loss to understand what the type of 
standing rigging it is. I?ll find out in a week or two when we get together to 
go over my rig.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin?s Overdue Refit 



On Nov 3, 2016, at 11:12 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38

[Patrick Davin via CnC-List]

Rick, did you do the rerig work yourself, or the rigger installed? Mast up,
or down?

On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 6:24 AM,  wrote:

> -- Forwarded message --
> From: Rick Brass 
> To: 
> Cc:
> Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2016 23:12:43 -0400
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38
>
> Dave;
>
>
>
> Could he have been referring to Dyform wire? That is a multi-strand wire
> made of individual wires that are sort of wedge shaped in cross section, so
> the strands are packed more densely than in conventional wire. It has both
> smaller diameter and greater tensile strength than conventional wire.
>
>
>
> I had my 38 rerigged in about 2011, after one of the toggles in my rig
> broke during a race in windy and rough conditions. The  old toggles may or
> may not have been original and also may have been of a generation that was
> recalled and replaced by Navtec. But I began to doubt the integrity of my
> (then) 35 year old rod rigging.
>
>
>
> Navtec says that dye testing is not adequate on old rod, and recommended
> replacement of rod over something like 20 years old. Their suggestion was
> to remove the rod , coil it on a pallet (I think it was Dennis C who said a
> coil of 200x rod diameter) with a coil about 5’ diameter, and ship it to
> them for non-destructive testing (X-ray, I think), and they would ship it
> back. Cost would have been about $3500 plus the cost of reheading or
> replacement depending on what the Navtec testing showed.
>
>
>
> My rigger suggested Dyform wire as a high value alternative. The wire
> turns out to be about 1/16th larger in diameter than the #10 rod (so
> slightly more windage) but also has a higher tensile strength than the rod
> it replaces. Rigger swaged on ends that fit the existing tangs in the mast,
> and used Sta-Loc fittings on the lower end so the wire could be cut to the
> proper lengths.
>
>
>
> Turns out that replacing the rod headstay with wire was probably a good
> idea. Maker of my furler (Bamar) recommends not using a rod headstay. They
> say that grit & dirt that gets into the bearings in the foil can score the
> rod and create stress risers that can lead to rod failure. The recommend
> installing a wire headstay if you have one of their roller furlers.
>
>
>
> All up cost for the Dyform wire rerigging of my 38 was about $3900 – just
> $400 more than the estimate from Navtec and the rigger for the R&R of the
> rod, shipping & inspection. Semmed like a good idea – and a lot less costly
> that reheading/replacing the rod.
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

As I recall the proper tee doesn't exist.  It would be simple enough for a
machinist to manufacture though.  That was my plan.  Once you get it to
1/8" NPT you can do anything with it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, Nov 4, 2016, 7:44 PM Ron Ricci via CnC-List 
wrote:

> First, I checked out Mike’s link and Persistence is a sharp looking boat.
> I’m partial to the color as Patriot is also dark blue with a red boot
> stripe and gold cove stripe.  Patriot also caught a line around the shaft
> resulting in multiple B.O.A.T. units to straighten the strut and replace
> the shaft.
>
>
>
> I’ve been considering adding a the ability to read oil pressure by adding
> the appropriate transducer and NMEA 2000 interface.  To me, the existing
> pressure switch setup is not necessarily ‘fail-safe’.  Probably the most
> difficult thing will be to find an appropriate tee (Japanese threads).  I
> wonder if any other lister has found a tee that works with a Yanmar engine?
>
>
>
> Thanks to all listers for your feedback,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C&C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> (978) 877-0369
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
> Mike via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, November 4, 2016 8:20 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
>
>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch
>
>
>
> Also you could install an oil pressure gauge so you know what the pressure
> really is.  The alarm is like the idiot light on your car ... if it sounds
> there is likely a problem but if it is broken you blithely assume all is
> good.  I once had a car where the bulb for the engine light was burned out.
>
>
>
> To install a gauge you use the same hole as the oil pressure sender.  Then
> you Tee that and put sender on one side of tee and gauge on other.  When in
> doubt you just take a quick look at the gauge.
>
>
>
> I have a picture of the gauge installed on Persistence website.   You can
> see the picture in the gallery link here
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Vendee Globe

[Colin Binkley via CnC-List]

So that's why I drive a BMW Z-3 and not a Formula 1!!

Colin Binkley
SV Lindsey Layne
C&C 40C # 3

Sent from my iPhone

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I am concerned about connecting a gauge directly to the engine for fear
that the vibration could cause a catastrophic failure of the gauge or
connection and a loss of oil pressure.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 7:43 PM, Ron Ricci via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> First, I checked out Mike’s link and Persistence is a sharp looking boat.
> I’m partial to the color as Patriot is also dark blue with a red boot
> stripe and gold cove stripe.  Patriot also caught a line around the shaft
> resulting in multiple B.O.A.T. units to straighten the strut and replace
> the shaft.
>
>
>
> I’ve been considering adding a the ability to read oil pressure by adding
> the appropriate transducer and NMEA 2000 interface.  To me, the existing
> pressure switch setup is not necessarily ‘fail-safe’.  Probably the most
> difficult thing will be to find an appropriate tee (Japanese threads).  I
> wonder if any other lister has found a tee that works with a Yanmar engine?
>
>
>
> Thanks to all listers for your feedback,
>
> *Ron*
>
> Ron Ricci
>
> S/V Patriot
>
> C&C 37+
>
> Bristol, RI
>
> (978) 877-0369
>
> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Hoyt,
> Mike via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, November 4, 2016 8:20 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Hoyt, Mike
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Oil Pressure Switch
>
>
>
> Also you could install an oil pressure gauge so you know what the pressure
> really is.  The alarm is like the idiot light on your car ... if it sounds
> there is likely a problem but if it is broken you blithely assume all is
> good.  I once had a car where the bulb for the engine light was burned out.
>
>
>
> To install a gauge you use the same hole as the oil pressure sender.  Then
> you Tee that and put sender on one side of tee and gauge on other.  When in
> doubt you just take a quick look at the gauge.
>
>
>
> I have a picture of the gauge installed on Persistence website.   You can
> see the picture in the gallery link here http://users.eastlink.ca/~
> mhoyt/persistence_gallery.htm
>
>
>
> Mike
>
> Persistence
>
> Halifax
>
> http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!