Rick, did you do the rerig work yourself, or the rigger installed? Mast up, or down?
On Fri, Nov 4, 2016 at 6:24 AM, <cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote: > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > From: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> > To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: > Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2016 23:12:43 -0400 > Subject: Re: Stus-List Pointers on re rigging an LF38 > > Dave; > > > > Could he have been referring to Dyform wire? That is a multi-strand wire > made of individual wires that are sort of wedge shaped in cross section, so > the strands are packed more densely than in conventional wire. It has both > smaller diameter and greater tensile strength than conventional wire. > > > > I had my 38 rerigged in about 2011, after one of the toggles in my rig > broke during a race in windy and rough conditions. The old toggles may or > may not have been original and also may have been of a generation that was > recalled and replaced by Navtec. But I began to doubt the integrity of my > (then) 35 year old rod rigging. > > > > Navtec says that dye testing is not adequate on old rod, and recommended > replacement of rod over something like 20 years old. Their suggestion was > to remove the rod , coil it on a pallet (I think it was Dennis C who said a > coil of 200x rod diameter) with a coil about 5’ diameter, and ship it to > them for non-destructive testing (X-ray, I think), and they would ship it > back. Cost would have been about $3500 plus the cost of reheading or > replacement depending on what the Navtec testing showed. > > > > My rigger suggested Dyform wire as a high value alternative. The wire > turns out to be about 1/16th larger in diameter than the #10 rod (so > slightly more windage) but also has a higher tensile strength than the rod > it replaces. Rigger swaged on ends that fit the existing tangs in the mast, > and used Sta-Loc fittings on the lower end so the wire could be cut to the > proper lengths. > > > > Turns out that replacing the rod headstay with wire was probably a good > idea. Maker of my furler (Bamar) recommends not using a rod headstay. They > say that grit & dirt that gets into the bearings in the foil can score the > rod and create stress risers that can lead to rod failure. The recommend > installing a wire headstay if you have one of their roller furlers. > > > > All up cost for the Dyform wire rerigging of my 38 was about $3900 – just > $400 more than the estimate from Navtec and the rigger for the R&R of the > rod, shipping & inspection. Semmed like a good idea – and a lot less costly > that reheading/replacing the rod. > > > > Rick Brass >
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