Stus-List Barient 22 Winch

[robert via CnC-List]

Yesterday, I discovered a simple way to loosen really tight (possibly 
seized) Allen screw(s) in my Barient 22 B model winchesI thought 
about attempting it on the mooring but it was too hot and too nice a day 
to waste servicing winches that were not preventing me from sailing.  I 
soaked both screws with Liquid Wrench and went sailing.


Later in the afternoon, my 135% sheeted close hauled in 12 knts true, 
the winch looked pretty 'locked up' so I went below and got my 3/16" 
Allen key and with a twist, the Allen screw turned.   Tacked, and the 
port screw loosened.


A strap wrench would be a useful tool to have for this purposeI have 
one.thought it was on the boat but can't find it.


Not as nice a sailing day here today.my winches might get serviced.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


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Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

Any know? My club doesn't have one that fits
Thanks in advance 
Cheers,Doug___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Before I changed ours I had to use the clubs universal fitting a wedge shaped 
fitting with a rubber gasket that you held in while pumping out.

Get Outlook for iOS




On Fri, Jul 22, 2016 at 11:41 AM -0400, "Doug Welch via CnC-List" 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Any know? My club doesn't have one that fits

Thanks in advance

Cheers,
Doug
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Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Moving forward with this project. Thanks Bill Bina for recommending 
http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm - I got a quote from them but 
it was cost-prohibitive ($760 for two rails plus $385 for shipping from Tampa 
to Denver). 

I've decided to fabricate my own, as one of my crew is extremely skilled at 
woodworking and has all the necessary tools. I can get the necessary teak stock 
for <$200. 

The problem is getting a long-enough piece of teak. The rails on the boat are 
117" long. The longest piece of teak I can get is 115". So I have to decide 
between shortening the rails by two inches, or using an alternative wood. We'd 
prefer not to do end-to-end joinery for this application. 

Shortening the rails by an inch on each end probably isn't that big an issue. 
It wouldn't appear to require changing the mounting screw locations. The main 
issue is how noticeable it would be afterward. 

I could get another oily close-grained hardwood species in a long-enough 
length, e.g. Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak. And it would be significantly less 
expensive than teak. 

So my question to you listers is, do you have any opinions on the merits or 
demerits of using Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak instead of teak for exterior 
handrails? 

Thanks in Advance, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 

- Original Message -

From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Danny Haughey"  
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 8:49:40 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails 



+1 on building your own! I do so on my Viking 33 and I was really happy with 
the result. I even had to scribe them to the rounded splash guard and they came 
out great! 




Danny 

On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote: 





If you have a few wood working tools handy, they are easy to build yourself. I 
built my handrails on my 30-1 out of teak. All you need is a hole-saw, jig saw 
and a router to round the edges. You would build two at a time. I have a 
matching set down below. 




This is the best picture I could find: 




https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing 



IMG_2338.JPG 
drive.google.com 


Cheers, 
Aaron R. 
Admiral Maggie, 
19 79 C&C 30 MK1 #540 
Annapolis, MD 



From: CnC-List  on behalf of RANDY via CnC-List 
 
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Stus-List Replacement Handrails 
Listers- 

Can anyone recommend a source for replacement exterior (cabin top) handrails 
for a 30-1? I would prefer teak, but would be willing to consider an estimate 
on stainless steel as well. Thanks in advance. 

Best Regards, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 




___ 

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated! 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

[Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List]

I use the marinas cone shaped rubber pump out fitting as I haven't been able to 
find anything that fits. The standards seem to be 1-1/2 or 1-1/4 inch. I think 
it's some metric thread. It says made in NZ on my deck fittings. Will be 
changing deck fittings this next winter.
Found this on the interweb
http://www.edsonintl.com/pumpstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103&products_id=180&zenid=cbf21b478906895bb76e2de6ee978487
This looks like the one at our Marina
http://mypumpstore.com/Universal-Marine-Pump-Out-Adapter-60709-00.htm
Brad
"Pulse" C&C 33 MkII
Lake Huron
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

[John McKay via CnC-List]

I have one on board that I screw
into the deck fitting then use one of the fitting at the pump. Will try to 
remember to check the size when I am there tomorrow.
hSeinto the deck fittit from Yahoo Mail on Android
 
 
  On Fri, Jul 22, 2016 at 1:38 pm, Bradley Lumgair via 
CnC-List wrote:   I use the marinas cone shaped rubber 
pump out fitting as I haven't been able to find anything that fits. The 
standards seem to be 1-1/2 or 1-1/4 inch. I think it's some metric thread. It 
says made in NZ on my deck fittings. Will be changing deck fittings this next 
winter.Found this on the 
interwebhttp://www.edsonintl.com/pumpstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103&products_id=180&zenid=cbf21b478906895bb76e2de6ee978487This
 looks like the one at our 
Marinahttp://mypumpstore.com/Universal-Marine-Pump-Out-Adapter-60709-00.htmBrad"Pulse";
 C&C 33 MkIILake Huron  
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Barient 22 Winch

[Sam Wheeler via CnC-List]

Sounds like a good solution.  To get the same effect at the dock, you could
probably run a line (jib sheet might be a good candidate) between the two
winches and tighten it up just enough to hold them in place.

Sam
35-3 Scoundrel (f/k/a Spanish Dancer)
SF

On Fri, Jul 22, 2016 at 5:53 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Yesterday, I discovered a simple way to loosen really tight (possibly
> seized) Allen screw(s) in my Barient 22 B model winchesI thought about
> attempting it on the mooring but it was too hot and too nice a day to waste
> servicing winches that were not preventing me from sailing.  I soaked both
> screws with Liquid Wrench and went sailing.
>
> Later in the afternoon, my 135% sheeted close hauled in 12 knts true, the
> winch looked pretty 'locked up' so I went below and got my 3/16" Allen key
> and with a twist, the Allen screw turned.   Tacked, and the port screw
> loosened.
>
> A strap wrench would be a useful tool to have for this purposeI have
> one.thought it was on the boat but can't find it.
>
> Not as nice a sailing day here today.my winches might get serviced.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

[Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List]

The universal fit Edson nozzle has a “splash guard” and won several innovation 
awards when it was developed several years ago.  Seems like a simple enough 
idea and something you don’t necessarily think of until you accidently pull the 
nozzle away from the deck fitting but there’s still stuff in the tank being 
sucked up the hose.  Funny thing is that Edson actually started as a pump 
manufacturer back in the mid 1800’s (first US patent on a diaphragm pump) and 
the steering bits were something they added to the product offerings somewhere 
closer to the turn of the century.  They also made “honey wagons” which were 
used to remove sewage in places in which there was no indoor plumbing.  The 
same concept was passed over into the marine industry and are still one of 
about three remaining manufacturers of marina pump out stations and systems.  
Half Magic has a 1 ½” thread on its deck fitting.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John McKay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 2:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John McKay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

 

I have one on board that I screw
into the deck fitting then use one of 

the fitting at the pump. Will try to remember to check the size when I am there 
tomorrow.

 

hSeinto the deck fittit from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 

On Fri, Jul 22, 2016 at 1:38 pm, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List

mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

I use the marinas cone shaped rubber pump out fitting as I haven't been able to 
find anything that fits. The standards seem to be 1-1/2 or 1-1/4 inch. I think 
it's some metric thread. It says made in NZ on my deck fittings. Will be 
changing deck fittings this next winter.

Found this on the interweb

http://www.edsonintl.com/pumpstore/index.php?main_page=product_info 

 &cPath=103&products_id=180&zenid=cbf21b478906895bb76e2de6ee978487

This looks like the one at our Marina

http://mypumpstore.com/Universal-Marine-Pump-Out-Adapter-60709-00.htm

Brad

"Pulse" C&C 33 MkII

Lake Huron

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

[Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List]

Hi,
I had mine redone , first in Jatoba , very nice appearance but very very hard ( 
must be cut with cobalt blade ), and while sanding it fell from 3-4 feet on the 
concrete floor, it splitted as a result so I went with IPE ( IPÉ in french ), 
pretty much teck-like  but instead of turning grey it blackens ( good word? ) 
if not maintained, of course. I've recovered them with Deks Olje ( now bought 
by Owatrol ) a 2 part protection, was much varnish-like finish. Actually all 
the exterior teak parts were redone with IPE on mine. I would say don't delay 
maintenance  if you want to go with this wood because there is no teak-restorer 
if you delay ( I used vinegar and 3M scrub pads to restore it ).
If the cost difference is not that high I would go with teak  :-)

SylvainC&C27 MkIII

  From: RANDY via CnC-List 
 To: cnc-list  
Cc: RANDY 
 Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 1:40 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails
   
Moving forward with this project.  Thanks Bill Bina for recommending 
http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm - I got a quote from them but 
it was cost-prohibitive ($760 for two rails plus $385 for shipping from Tampa 
to Denver).

I've decided to fabricate my own, as one of my crew is extremely skilled at 
woodworking and has all the necessary tools.  I can get the necessary teak 
stock for <$200.
The problem is getting a long-enough piece of teak.  The rails on the boat are 
117" long.  The longest piece of teak I can get is 115".  So I have to decide 
between shortening the rails by two inches, or using an alternative wood.  We'd 
prefer not to do end-to-end joinery for this application.
Shortening the rails by an inch on each end probably isn't that big an issue.  
It wouldn't appear to require changing the mounting screw locations.  The main 
issue is how noticeable it would be afterward.
I could get another oily close-grained hardwood species in a long-enough 
length, e.g. Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak.  And it would be significantly less 
expensive than teak.
So my question to you listers is, do you have any opinions on the merits or 
demerits of using Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak instead of teak for exterior handrails?
Thanks in Advance,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO
From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Danny Haughey" 
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 8:49:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

 +1 on building your own!  I do so on my Viking 33 and I was really happy with 
the result.  I even had to scribe them to the rounded splash guard and they 
came out great! 
  Danny
  
 On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote:
  
   If you have a few 
wood working tools handy, they are easy to build yourself. I built my handrails 
on my 30-1 out of teak. All you need is a hole-saw, jig saw and a router to 
round the edges. You would build two at a time. I have a matching set down 
below.  
  This is the best picture I could find: 
  https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing 
 
| |   IMG_2338.JPG  drive.google.com  |

  Cheers,
Aaron R. Admiral Maggie, 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 Annapolis, MD   
 
   From: CnC-List  on behalf of RANDY via 
CnC-List 
 Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM
 To: cnc-list
 Cc: RANDY
 Subject: Stus-List Replacement Handrails  Listers- 
  Can anyone recommend a source for replacement exterior (cabin top) handrails 
for a 30-1?  I would prefer teak, but would be willing to consider an estimate 
on stainless steel as well.  Thanks in advance. 
  Best Regards, Randy Stafford S/V Grenadine C&C 30-1 #7 Ken Caryl, CO 
  
 ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!
 
 
 
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I had mine remade out of stainless steel.  $200 each and no maintenance.
I'll take that all day every.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yd0UxdVVfWkEybjA

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 22, 2016 3:16 PM, "Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I had mine redone , first in Jatoba , very nice appearance but very very
> hard ( must be cut with cobalt blade ), and while sanding it fell from 3-4
> feet on the concrete floor, it splitted as a result so I went with IPE (
> IPÉ in french ), pretty much teck-like  but instead of turning grey it
> blackens ( good word? ) if not maintained, of course.
> I've recovered them with Deks Olje ( now bought by Owatrol ) a 2 part
> protection, was much varnish-like finish. Actually all the exterior teak
> parts were redone with IPE on mine. I would say don't delay maintenance  if
> you want to go with this wood because there is no teak-restorer if you
> delay ( I used vinegar and 3M scrub pads to restore it ).
>
> If the cost difference is not that high I would go with teak  :-)
>
>
> Sylvain
> C&C27 MkIII
>
>
> --
> *From:* RANDY via CnC-List 
> *To:* cnc-list 
> *Cc:* RANDY 
> *Sent:* Friday, July 22, 2016 1:40 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails
>
> Moving forward with this project.  Thanks Bill Bina for recommending
> http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm - I got a quote from
> them but it was cost-prohibitive ($760 for two rails plus $385 for shipping
> from Tampa to Denver).
>
> I've decided to fabricate my own, as one of my crew is extremely skilled
> at woodworking and has all the necessary tools.  I can get the necessary
> teak stock for <$200.
>
> The problem is getting a long-enough piece of teak.  The rails on the boat
> are 117" long.  The longest piece of teak I can get is 115".  So I have to
> decide between shortening the rails by two inches, or using an alternative
> wood.  We'd prefer not to do end-to-end joinery for this application.
>
> Shortening the rails by an inch on each end probably isn't that big an
> issue.  It wouldn't appear to require changing the mounting screw
> locations.  The main issue is how noticeable it would be afterward.
>
> I could get another oily close-grained hardwood species in a long-enough
> length, e.g. Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak.  And it would be significantly less
> expensive than teak.
>
> So my question to you listers is, do you have any opinions on the merits
> or demerits of using Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak instead of teak for exterior
> handrails?
>
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
> --
> *From: *"Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"cnc-list" 
> *Cc: *"Danny Haughey" 
> *Sent: *Thursday, June 30, 2016 8:49:40 AM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails
>
> +1 on building your own!  I do so on my Viking 33 and I was really happy
> with the result.  I even had to scribe them to the rounded splash guard and
> they came out great!
>
> Danny
>
> On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote:
>
> If you have a few wood working tools handy, they are easy to build
> yourself. I built my handrails on my 30-1 out of teak. All you need is a
> hole-saw, jig saw and a router to round the edges. You would build two at a
> time. I have a matching set down below.
>
> This is the best picture I could find:
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing
>
> 
> IMG_2338.JPG
> 
> drive.google.com
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List 
>  on behalf of RANDY via CnC-List
>  
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM
> *To:* cnc-list
> *Cc:* RANDY
> *Subject:* Stus-List Replacement Handrails
>
> Listers-
>
> Can anyone recommend a source for replacement exterior (cabin top)
> handrails for a 30-1?  I would prefer teak, but would be willing to
> consider an estimate on stainless steel as well.  Thanks in advance.
>
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for 

Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Randy,
  I have purchased from this guy in Florida three times and had great service.  Teak was $110, Shipping was less than 30 dollars to cincinnati, Ohio.  FEQ teak.  I could send pictures of two sets of handrails I built to you offline. 
   His contact info:
Rex Rothing
305.453.0102
woodshop...@bellsouth.net
Bill Walker
Evening Star
CnC 36
Pentwater, Michigan

On Jul 22, 2016 1:40 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:Moving forward with this project.  Thanks Bill Bina for recommending http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm - I got a quote from them but it was cost-prohibitive ($760 for two rails plus $385 for shipping from Tampa to Denver).I've decided to fabricate my own, as one of my crew is extremely skilled at woodworking and has all the necessary tools.  I can get the necessary teak stock for <$200.The problem is getting a long-enough piece of teak.  The rails on the boat are 117" long.  The longest piece of teak I can get is 115".  So I have to decide between shortening the rails by two inches, or using an alternative wood.  We'd prefer not to do end-to-end joinery for this application.Shortening the rails by an inch on each end probably isn't that big an issue.  It wouldn't appear to require changing the mounting screw locations.  The main issue is how noticeable it would be afterward.I could get another oily close-grained hardwood species in a long-enough length, e.g. Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak.  And it would be significantly less expensive than teak.So my question to you listers is, do you have any opinions on the merits or demerits of using Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak instead of teak for exterior handrails?Thanks in Advance,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, COFrom: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" To: "cnc-list" Cc: "Danny Haughey" Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 8:49:40 AMSubject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails
  

  
  
+1 on building your own!  I do so on my Viking 33 and I was
  really happy with the result.  I even had to scribe them to the
  rounded splash guard and they came out great!


Danny


On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via
  CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
If you have a few wood working tools handy, they are easy to
  build yourself. I built my handrails on my 30-1 out of teak.
  All you need is a hole-saw, jig saw and a router to round the
  edges. You would build two at a time. I have a matching set
  down below. 


This is the best picture I could find:


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing

  
  


  
IMG_2338.JPG
  
drive.google.com


Cheers,


  
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD
  




  
  From:
  CnC-List  on behalf
  of RANDY via CnC-List 
  Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM
  To: cnc-list
  Cc: RANDY
  Subject: Stus-List Replacement Handrails
 
  
  

  Listers-
  
  
  Can anyone recommend a source for replacement
exterior (cabin top) handrails for a 30-1?  I would
prefer teak, but would be willing to consider an
estimate on stainless steel as well.  Thanks in advance.
  
  
  Best Regards,
  Randy Stafford
  S/V Grenadine
  C&C 30-1 #7
  Ken Caryl, CO

  

  
  
  
  
  ___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!



  

___This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly appreciated!___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

[Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List]

Randy,

I had the same problem so I made them into two sections as it is common for 
larger boats. It works well and easier to build. Also, A more reasonably priced 
alternative to Teak is Sapele which is in the same family as mahogany. My two 
forward shorter grab rails are actually Sapele and haven't had any issues with 
them warping or checking at all...


Cheers,
Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List  on behalf of RANDY via CnC-List 

Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 1:40 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

Moving forward with this project.  Thanks Bill Bina for recommending 
http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm - I got a quote from them but 
it was cost-prohibitive ($760 for two rails plus $385 for shipping from Tampa 
to Denver).
Hand Railings - Custom Teak Marine 
Woodwork
www.teakmarinewoodwork.com
Hand Railings Order Directly From the Manufacturer "Made in USA by American 
Craftsmen in St. Petersburg, Fl." All Items Are Custom Order Please give us a 
call (727 ...





I've decided to fabricate my own, as one of my crew is extremely skilled at 
woodworking and has all the necessary tools.  I can get the necessary teak 
stock for <$200.

The problem is getting a long-enough piece of teak.  The rails on the boat are 
117" long.  The longest piece of teak I can get is 115".  So I have to decide 
between shortening the rails by two inches, or using an alternative wood.  We'd 
prefer not to do end-to-end joinery for this application.

Shortening the rails by an inch on each end probably isn't that big an issue.  
It wouldn't appear to require changing the mounting screw locations.  The main 
issue is how noticeable it would be afterward.

I could get another oily close-grained hardwood species in a long-enough 
length, e.g. Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak.  And it would be significantly less 
expensive than teak.

So my question to you listers is, do you have any opinions on the merits or 
demerits of using Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak instead of teak for exterior handrails?

Thanks in Advance,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO


From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
To: "cnc-list" 
Cc: "Danny Haughey" 
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 8:49:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails


+1 on building your own!  I do so on my Viking 33 and I was really happy with 
the result.  I even had to scribe them to the rounded splash guard and they 
came out great!


Danny

On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote:

If you have a few wood working tools handy, they are easy to build yourself. I 
built my handrails on my 30-1 out of teak. All you need is a hole-saw, jig saw 
and a router to round the edges. You would build two at a time. I have a 
matching set down below.


This is the best picture I could find:


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing

[https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/WrAhPqORnISM1tDILrHRVxpu77JHSL76zb5_aa3hEeHgO3J4S5L3hw=w1200-h630-p]

IMG_2338.JPG
drive.google.com


Cheers,

Aaron R.
Admiral Maggie,
1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
Annapolis, MD



From: CnC-List 
 on behalf 
of RANDY via CnC-List 
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM
To: cnc-list
Cc: RANDY
Subject: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

Listers-

Can anyone recommend a source for replacement exterior (cabin top) handrails 
for a 30-1?  I would prefer teak, but would be willing to consider an estimate 
on stainless steel as well.  Thanks in advance.

Best Regards,
Randy Stafford
S/V Grenadine
C&C 30-1 #7
Ken Caryl, CO



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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

You can always make 2 handrails in the 117" length--just split the length 
somewhere in between bolts.  This will allow you to use much shorter teak 
boards.

However, I changed mine to SS nearly 15 years ago and I would never even 
consider teak again.  All that maintenance time is now spent sailing!!!

Bob

Bob Boyer
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore)

> On Jul 22, 2016, at 4:39 PM, William Walker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Randy,
>   I have purchased from this guy in Florida three times and had great 
> service.  Teak was $110, Shipping was less than 30 dollars to cincinnati, 
> Ohio.  FEQ teak.  I could send pictures of two sets of handrails I built to 
> you offline. 
>His contact info:
> Rex Rothing
> 305.453.0102
> woodshop...@bellsouth.net
> 
> Bill Walker
> Evening Star
> CnC 36
> Pentwater, Michigan
> On Jul 22, 2016 1:40 PM, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:
> Moving forward with this project.  Thanks Bill Bina for recommending 
> http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm - I got a quote from them 
> but it was cost-prohibitive ($760 for two rails plus $385 for shipping from 
> Tampa to Denver).
> 
> I've decided to fabricate my own, as one of my crew is extremely skilled at 
> woodworking and has all the necessary tools.  I can get the necessary teak 
> stock for <$200.
> 
> The problem is getting a long-enough piece of teak.  The rails on the boat 
> are 117" long.  The longest piece of teak I can get is 115".  So I have to 
> decide between shortening the rails by two inches, or using an alternative 
> wood.  We'd prefer not to do end-to-end joinery for this application.
> 
> Shortening the rails by an inch on each end probably isn't that big an issue. 
>  It wouldn't appear to require changing the mounting screw locations.  The 
> main issue is how noticeable it would be afterward.
> 
> I could get another oily close-grained hardwood species in a long-enough 
> length, e.g. Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak.  And it would be significantly less 
> expensive than teak.
> 
> So my question to you listers is, do you have any opinions on the merits or 
> demerits of using Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak instead of teak for exterior 
> handrails?
> 
> Thanks in Advance,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" 
> To: "cnc-list" 
> Cc: "Danny Haughey" 
> Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 8:49:40 AM
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails
> 
> +1 on building your own!  I do so on my Viking 33 and I was really happy with 
> the result.  I even had to scribe them to the rounded splash guard and they 
> came out great!
> 
> 
> Danny
> 
> On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote:
> If you have a few wood working tools handy, they are easy to build yourself. 
> I built my handrails on my 30-1 out of teak. All you need is a hole-saw, jig 
> saw and a router to round the edges. You would build two at a time. I have a 
> matching set down below. 
> 
> 
> This is the best picture I could find:
> 
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing
> 
> 
> IMG_2338.JPG
> drive.google.com
> Cheers,
> Aaron R.
> Admiral Maggie,
> 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540
> Annapolis, MD
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of RANDY via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM
> To: cnc-list
> Cc: RANDY
> Subject: Stus-List Replacement Handrails
>  
> Listers-
> 
> Can anyone recommend a source for replacement exterior (cabin top) handrails 
> for a 30-1?  I would prefer teak, but would be willing to consider an 
> estimate on stainless steel as well.  Thanks in advance.
> 
> Best Regards,
> Randy Stafford
> S/V Grenadine
> C&C 30-1 #7
> Ken Caryl, CO
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

[doug.welch--- via CnC-List]

Inch a half sounds about right. My local chandlery have me an 1 5/8 to try and 
it's a hair to big 

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
 
  On Fri, Jul 22, 2016 at 2:57 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via 
CnC-List wrote:   
The universal fit Edson nozzle has a “splash guard” and won several innovation 
awards when it was developed several years ago.  Seems like a simple enough 
idea and something you don’t necessarily think of until you accidently pull the 
nozzle away from the deck fitting but there’s still stuff in the tank being 
sucked up the hose.  Funny thing is that Edson actually started as a pump 
manufacturer back in the mid 1800’s (first US patent on a diaphragm pump) and 
the steering bits were something they added to the product offerings somewhere 
closer to the turn of the century.  They also made “honey wagons” which were 
used to remove sewage in places in which there was no indoor plumbing.  The 
same concept was passed over into the marine industry and are still one of 
about three remaining manufacturers of marina pump out stations and systems.  
Half Magic has a 1 ½” thread on its deck fitting.

Chuck Gilchrest

S/V Half Magic

1983 Landfall 35

Padanaram, MA

  

  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John McKay 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 2:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John McKay 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

  

I have one on board that I screw
into the deck fitting then use one of 

the fitting at the pump. Will try to remember to check the size when I am there 
tomorrow.

  

hSeinto the deck fittit from Yahoo Mail on Android


On Fri, Jul 22, 2016 at 1:38 pm, Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List

 wrote:

I use the marinas cone shaped rubber pump out fitting as I haven't been able to 
find anything that fits. The standards seem to be 1-1/2 or 1-1/4 inch. I think 
it's some metric thread. It says made in NZ on my deck fittings. Will be 
changing deck fittings this next winter.

Found this on the interweb

http://www.edsonintl.com/pumpstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=103&products_id=180&zenid=cbf21b478906895bb76e2de6ee978487

This looks like the one at our Marina

http://mypumpstore.com/Universal-Marine-Pump-Out-Adapter-60709-00.htm

Brad

"Pulse" C&C 33 MkII

Lake Huron

  
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Stus-List wind data snafu

[Chuck Saur via CnC-List]

Hello gang...just got to boat and wind data and depth was gone on my B&G
IS40 system.  I checked connection to backbone and all tight.  Now here is
the first suspect issue:   when I disconnect the connector from the
cups/vane to the backbone,  the depth data is displayed correctly.  Plug
the wind instrument back in, and poof!  Depth data displays no data again.

Sounds suspiciously like a problem with my generator on the sending unit?
But why when I connect it again, the depth data is lost.  All else
(autopilot, Triton 7 Chartplotter, engine, etc) is functioning properly.

We had thunderstorms in the area this week...hope not connected with
lightning!!??

Anyone up to  pointing me in a direction?


*Chuck Saur*
35-3 Morning Sky
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Re: Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Those are just simple quick connectors, available at any Pneumatics store, or 
even at Tractor Supply for around 5 bucks

Most are 1 ½” NPT, altho some are 1 ¼” NPT

 

Bill Coleman

C&C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bradley 
Lumgair via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 1:39 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bradley Lumgair
Subject: Stus-List Diameter of 33-2 Deck Pump Out Fitting?

 

I use the marinas cone shaped rubber pump out fitting as I haven't been able to 
find anything that fits. The standards seem to be 1-1/2 or 1-1/4 inch. I think 
it's some metric thread. It says made in NZ on my deck fittings. Will be 
changing deck fittings this next winter.

Found this on the interweb

http://www.edsonintl.com/pumpstore/index.php?main_page=product_info 

 &cPath=103&products_id=180&zenid=cbf21b478906895bb76e2de6ee978487

This looks like the one at our Marina

http://mypumpstore.com/Universal-Marine-Pump-Out-Adapter-60709-00.htm

Brad

"Pulse" C&C 33 MkII

Lake Huron

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Re: Stus-List wind data snafu

[Charles Nelson via CnC-List]

Any coil of wire/generator can have large induced current/voltage if near a 
lightning strike which produces a very large EMF field locally. This field 
propagates out from the strike (following ~ 1/r law) inducing currents in any 
nearby motor/generator/etc. Of course, the induced current/voltage is temporary 
but can be very large. This is why most motors in the vicinity of strikes are 
destroyed--garage openers, washers and dryers, etc.
This could be the problem with your wind instrument.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36XL/kcb
(also a semi-retired physicist)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 22, 2016, at 5:17 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hello gang...just got to boat and wind data and depth was gone on my B&G IS40 
> system.  I checked connection to backbone and all tight.  Now here is the 
> first suspect issue:   when I disconnect the connector from the cups/vane to 
> the backbone,  the depth data is displayed correctly.  Plug the wind 
> instrument back in, and poof!  Depth data displays no data again. 
> 
> Sounds suspiciously like a problem with my generator on the sending unit?  
> But why when I connect it again, the depth data is lost.  All else 
> (autopilot, Triton 7 Chartplotter, engine, etc) is functioning properly.
> 
> We had thunderstorms in the area this week...hope not connected with 
> lightning!!??
> 
> Anyone up to  pointing me in a direction?
> 
> 
> Chuck Saur
> 35-3 Morning Sky
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

[RANDY via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the responses guys. 

I lucked out and found a 10' x 6&3/4" x 4/4 teak board in Colorado Springs, and 
bought it for $219. So we'll cut & rout a pair of one-piece rails from it, and 
probably have enough stock left over to replace other teak pieces around the 
companionway, etc. 

Even if I have to re-finish every X years, these new rails will look much 
better than what's on the boat now (maybe original?), and will be the least 
expensive teak replacements possible for me (free labor! :) 

I'll post before & after pics when done. 

Cheers, 
Randy 

- Original Message -

From: "Robert Boyer via CnC-List"  
To: "cnc-list"  
Cc: "Robert Boyer"  
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 3:08:15 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails 

You can always make 2 handrails in the 117" length--just split the length 
somewhere in between bolts. This will allow you to use much shorter teak 
boards. 

However, I changed mine to SS nearly 15 years ago and I would never even 
consider teak again. All that maintenance time is now spent sailing!!! 

Bob 

Bob Boyer 
S/V Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230) 
Blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com 
Email: dainyr...@icloud.com 
Annapolis, MD (presently in Baltimore) 

On Jul 22, 2016, at 4:39 PM, William Walker via CnC-List < 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 






Randy, 
I have purchased from this guy in Florida three times and had great service. 
Teak was $110, Shipping was less than 30 dollars to cincinnati, Ohio. FEQ teak. 
I could send pictures of two sets of handrails I built to you offline. 
His contact info: 
Rex Rothing 
305.453.0102 
woodshop...@bellsouth.net 

Bill Walker 
Evening Star 
CnC 36 
Pentwater, Michigan 
On Jul 22, 2016 1:40 PM, RANDY via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote: 



Moving forward with this project. Thanks Bill Bina for recommending 
http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm - I got a quote from them but 
it was cost-prohibitive ($760 for two rails plus $385 for shipping from Tampa 
to Denver). 

I've decided to fabricate my own, as one of my crew is extremely skilled at 
woodworking and has all the necessary tools. I can get the necessary teak stock 
for <$200. 

The problem is getting a long-enough piece of teak. The rails on the boat are 
117" long. The longest piece of teak I can get is 115". So I have to decide 
between shortening the rails by two inches, or using an alternative wood. We'd 
prefer not to do end-to-end joinery for this application. 

Shortening the rails by an inch on each end probably isn't that big an issue. 
It wouldn't appear to require changing the mounting screw locations. The main 
issue is how noticeable it would be afterward. 

I could get another oily close-grained hardwood species in a long-enough 
length, e.g. Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak. And it would be significantly less 
expensive than teak. 

So my question to you listers is, do you have any opinions on the merits or 
demerits of using Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak instead of teak for exterior 
handrails? 

Thanks in Advance, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 


From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
To: "cnc-list" < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
Cc: "Danny Haughey" < djhaug...@juno.com > 
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 8:49:40 AM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails 



+1 on building your own! I do so on my Viking 33 and I was really happy with 
the result. I even had to scribe them to the rounded splash guard and they came 
out great! 




Danny 

On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote: 





If you have a few wood working tools handy, they are easy to build yourself. I 
built my handrails on my 30-1 out of teak. All you need is a hole-saw, jig saw 
and a router to round the edges. You would build two at a time. I have a 
matching set down below. 




This is the best picture I could find: 




https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing 

IMG_2338.JPG 
drive.google.com 


Cheers, 
Aaron R. 
Admiral Maggie, 
19 79 C&C 30 MK1 #540 
Annapolis, MD 



From: CnC-List  on behalf of RANDY via CnC-List 
 
Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: RANDY 
Subject: Stus-List Replacement Handrails 
Listers- 

Can anyone recommend a source for replacement exterior (cabin top) handrails 
for a 30-1? I would prefer teak, but would be willing to consider an estimate 
on stainless steel as well. Thanks in advance. 

Best Regards, 
Randy Stafford 
S/V Grenadine 
C&C 30-1 #7 
Ken Caryl, CO 


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greatl

Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

 Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is 
working properly?  The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about half 
full.
Frank___

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Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor

[Tim Goodyear via CnC-List]

Frank,

If you have access to a multi-meter, measure the resistance across the sender; 
it should read about 30 ohms for full and 240 ohms for empty.  An open circuit 
(a bad connection or maybe a faulty sender) would show empty (>240 ohms).

Regards,

Tim

> On Jul 22, 2016, at 8:45 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is 
> working properly?  The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about 
> half full.
> 
> Frank
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The fuel level sender is just a variable resistor.  There should be 1 wires
going to the sender.  The resistance is that felt from the sense  wire to
ground.  As the level changes the voltage dropped across this resistance
changes and in turn is registered on the gauge.  The easy way to check the
sender is to measure the resistance from the sense wire to ground.  Be
careful not to accidentally measure the resistance of the 12v supply.  I
seem to remember that the typical moeller float senders are 300 ohm?  So
you should see between 30 and 300 ohms and most likely at half full
something close to 150 ohms.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jul 22, 2016 8:47 PM, "Franklin Schenk via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is
working properly?  The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about
half full.

Frank

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Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List faulty fuel gauge or sensor

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

Thanks.  I know how to read a multmeter.  Now all I need is for the temperature 
to drop below 100 degrees so I don't die from the heat. 
FrankC&C 29  

On Friday, July 22, 2016 10:06 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 The fuel level sender is just a variable resistor.  There should be 1 wires 
going to the sender.  The resistance is that felt from the sense  wire to 
ground.  As the level changes the voltage dropped across this resistance 
changes and in turn is registered on the gauge.  The easy way to check the 
sender is to measure the resistance from the sense wire to ground.  Be careful 
not to accidentally measure the resistance of the 12v supply.  I seem to 
remember that the typical moeller float senders are 300 ohm?  So you should see 
between 30 and 300 ohms and most likely at half full something close to 150 
ohms.Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 22, 2016 8:47 PM, "Franklin Schenk via CnC-List"  
wrote:

 Is there a simple way to check out the fuel level sensor to see if it is 
working properly?  The fuel gauge reads zero even though the tank is about half 
full.
Frank
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