Hi,
I had mine redone , first in Jatoba , very nice appearance but very very hard ( 
must be cut with cobalt blade ), and while sanding it fell from 3-4 feet on the 
concrete floor, it splitted as a result so I went with IPE ( IPÉ in french ), 
pretty much teck-like  but instead of turning grey it blackens ( good word? ) 
if not maintained, of course. I've recovered them with Deks Olje ( now bought 
by Owatrol ) a 2 part protection, was much varnish-like finish. Actually all 
the exterior teak parts were redone with IPE on mine. I would say don't delay 
maintenance  if you want to go with this wood because there is no teak-restorer 
if you delay ( I used vinegar and 3M scrub pads to restore it ).
If the cost difference is not that high I would go with teak  :-)

SylvainC&C27 MkIII

      From: RANDY via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 To: cnc-list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: RANDY <randy.staff...@comcast.net>
 Sent: Friday, July 22, 2016 1:40 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails
   
Moving forward with this project.  Thanks Bill Bina for recommending 
http://www.teakmarinewoodwork.com/hand_rails.htm - I got a quote from them but 
it was cost-prohibitive ($760 for two rails plus $385 for shipping from Tampa 
to Denver).

I've decided to fabricate my own, as one of my crew is extremely skilled at 
woodworking and has all the necessary tools.  I can get the necessary teak 
stock for <$200.
The problem is getting a long-enough piece of teak.  The rails on the boat are 
117" long.  The longest piece of teak I can get is 115".  So I have to decide 
between shortening the rails by two inches, or using an alternative wood.  We'd 
prefer not to do end-to-end joinery for this application.
Shortening the rails by an inch on each end probably isn't that big an issue.  
It wouldn't appear to require changing the mounting screw locations.  The main 
issue is how noticeable it would be afterward.
I could get another oily close-grained hardwood species in a long-enough 
length, e.g. Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak.  And it would be significantly less 
expensive than teak.
So my question to you listers is, do you have any opinions on the merits or 
demerits of using Ipe, Cumaru, or Paduak instead of teak for exterior handrails?
Thanks in Advance,Randy StaffordS/V GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl, CO
From: "Danny Haughey via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
To: "cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: "Danny Haughey" <djhaug...@juno.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2016 8:49:40 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Replacement Handrails

 +1 on building your own!  I do so on my Viking 33 and I was really happy with 
the result.  I even had to scribe them to the rounded splash guard and they 
came out great! 
  Danny
  
 On 6/20/2016 6:22 PM, Aaron Rouhi via CnC-List wrote:
  
 <!--#yiv0604055542 P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}-->  If you have a few 
wood working tools handy, they are easy to build yourself. I built my handrails 
on my 30-1 out of teak. All you need is a hole-saw, jig saw and a router to 
round the edges. You would build two at a time. I have a matching set down 
below.  
  This is the best picture I could find: 
  https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B87tJUU30YcDdm5rN0lZNTdqOU0/view?usp=sharing 
 
|     |   IMG_2338.JPG  drive.google.com  |

  Cheers,
    Aaron R. Admiral Maggie, 1979 C&C 30 MK1 #540 Annapolis, MD   
 
   From: CnC-List <cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> on behalf of RANDY via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
 Sent: Sunday, June 19, 2016 10:39 PM
 To: cnc-list
 Cc: RANDY
 Subject: Stus-List Replacement Handrails      Listers- 
  Can anyone recommend a source for replacement exterior (cabin top) handrails 
for a 30-1?  I would prefer teak, but would be willing to consider an estimate 
on stainless steel as well.  Thanks in advance. 
  Best Regards, Randy Stafford S/V Grenadine C&C 30-1 #7 Ken Caryl, CO     
  
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